http://seattle.craigslist.org/kit/mcy/3290840975.html (http://seattle.craigslist.org/kit/mcy/3290840975.html)
(http://images.craigslist.org/5N55O65Ed3I73F13J2c9ne1bcf68e978a1fde.jpg)
(http://images.craigslist.org/5N45L45Gb3K63N53Hec9ncd4809ad5bd81e23.jpg)
Quote$1299
If you were looking for an FJ, you know about the history of the legendary granddaddy of sport touring.
The torquey in-line four, comfortable riding position enhanced by a Corbin saddle and rock solid stability
I am the 3rd owner of this FJ and had enjoyed it until it developed an electrical issue.
Given the symptoms of my troubleshooting, I suspect a shorted connection somewhere in the wiring harness.
Because of the nature of it, taking it to the shop is out of the question, and I don't have the facilities to do it myself.
I do believe that for someone who enjoys tinkering on motorcycles, this would be a worthwhile project and they would be getting a fun ride when they were done.
The particulars;
67k miles, (FJ's typically exceed 100,000 miles)
New starter and solenoid, battery is solid
Tires in good shape
Givi rack and Monokey saddle bags that will hold 2 fullface helmets each, and they detach to become suitcases
Rare Yamaha tank bra, (I have never seen one for sale), and small Cortech tank bag
Have never experienced the 2nd gear issue widely reported in FJ's.
Like I said, bike ran great till the electrical problem, (I have a dyno report done 5 years ago showing 112 HP at the rear wheel)
It's been garage kept it's entire life; the bodywork is all original; has the original toolkit, owners manual, a Clymer shop manual and the original saddle.
I'm willing to negotiate on the price, but I am not willing to give it away.
Said one day he tried to turn it on and it just sounded weak. Next time, later, nothing. Mechanic quoted him about a grand in parts and labor. A grand of starter and solenoid later, the lights now come on, but nothing. They want more to just start looking at $90/hour. He can't afford that. He let it sit a year.
He's had it 4 years if I remember right. Put about 10k on it in that time.
I'm not afraid of electrical issues, but does that ring a bell with anyone? I mean, a random short one day--not intermittent--sounds odd. My next guess would be coils, but both dropping out together sounds kind of weird as well. Anything I should know to be worried about? I talked with the guy, I have friends in Seattle, I'm pretty serious about this one.
probably a dead battery and or dirty starter motor ,, carbs will need a gooood clean out , , how much , , Ahh hell. just buy it and fix it,, them get your kookaloo in
By the looks of the pics, I'd buy it.
Mine cost 1200 and was a standard 86 (the best color scheme)
However, mine was a runner, which counts for a lot. However, again, the initial condition of that one looks better than when I first bought mine.
What motivated me to buy was the phrase I found on this forum somewhere:
'If it runs right, it is right.'
If you feel the seller is honest about the quick fix starting issue, then get it and join the fun
Andy
Like I said, he replaced the starter motor. And I'm sure the first thing he did was charge/replace the battery.
I do feel like he's honest, I just want to make sure I'm not missing anything that could be expensive/drastic that might be known here. Electrics on these old bikes are dirt simple, so I'm sure I could trace it with the help on this forum and a multimeter, probably in a few hours. Hell, if nothing's broken, I should be able to hotwire it one way or another.
Bike ain't seized, says he can roll it in 5th gear and there'd be no reason to suspect that anyways. I was wondering... He said he put synthetic oil in it last time he changed it out and it ran a lot better, and that it hadn't 'liked' normal oil. Is there a chance that a starter clutch or something is slipping because of that? (That should at least still make noise, though, from what I've heard, so probably not...).
In any case, if the engine isn't seized and everything's there, I'm pretty confident I can fix it one way or another.
Perhaps colors have changed (perhaps not) between models on wires and such, but how different would troubleshooting the starter on an FJ be from the procedure defined for such troubleshooting on the XJ's here be?
http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=17451/view=previous.html (http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=17451/view=previous.html)
Or, better yet, perhaps someone has written an FJ specific version? (If not, perhaps this would be a good starting point to write such a document, if anyone is inclined?)
Quote from: fintip on October 04, 2012, 04:14:33 AM
Perhaps colors have changed (perhaps not) between models on wires and such, but how different would troubleshooting the starter on an FJ be from the procedure defined for such troubleshooting on the XJ's here be?
http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=17451/view=previous.html (http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=17451/view=previous.html)
Or, better yet, perhaps someone has written an FJ specific version? (If not, perhaps this would be a good starting point to write such a document, if anyone is inclined?)
Trouble shooting electrics on bikes isn't hard, you can reach it all from the one spot and they are generally not make / model specific ie. principle of operation is the same regardless.
Providing you have an understanding of those principles and a few basic tools you should be able to sort it out.
My preferred trouble shooting tool is a test light with a very sharp pointy end for poking through insulation and a battery powered continuity tester to check earthing ( with the same end )
I only use a multi meter for checking actual voltages, a test light is much easier to use when tracing power.
If you need to refer to colour coding for some reason, I'm sure there is a diagram here on the forum.
Noel
It could be as simple as the starter switch, not the first time it has caused an FJowner grief. And it is a really simple fix.
Quote from: ribbert on October 04, 2012, 04:51:38 AM
My preferred trouble shooting tool is a test light with a very sharp pointy end for poking through insulation Noel
:hi: I agree with Noel...I've had one of these for years. They are a superb electrical trouble shooting tool...They tell you in an instant if you do/do not have power to a certain location :good2:
I would quite happily acquire that FJ if it were North of the border. I'm quite certain that it wouldn't take that much to get her back up and running ... :drinks:
John.
The home mechanic that took me under his wing for a lot of the more difficult jobs I did for the first time recommended those over multimeters. I guess I'll bring both so I can keep an eye on the battery as well, but I have a hard time letting go of all the options a multimeter gives you.
Bet you $5 I don't need it, though and you both are right. Anyways, my multimeter is a lightweight tiny thing I got for cheap from harbor freight (and it is already falling apart, and I have superglued it twice to keep it intact, haha. No worries, it was like $6 and it was there when I needed it.)
Anyways, I got the guy to agree to $1100! I hope to have a friend bring him the money today or tomorrow, and to fly up there in two weeks, fix it, and then drive back down to Texas--visiting the west coast for the first time, seeing Portland, Highway 1, San Fran, etc.
I'm pretty excited. A little nervous, hoping someone doesn't get money to the guy before my friend does...
I'd definitely ask if it's had a NEW battery in it. It could be as easy as that. Lots of owners just try charging the battery. Batteries will show 12 volts and make the charger "think" they are good (and turnon the green light) when, in reality, they are shot.
I will put a charger on the night before I'm going for a ride. Every time I had a battery fail on me, it was after the charger "told" me the battery was all charged up.
If it sat for a year, it will need a carb cleaning.
How much time are you allocating to "fix" it?
DavidR.
A few days. I just need it to be moving and get it home; then I can properly take care of it, strip down the carbs, etc.
My friend is handing the money over for it now. It's as good as mine.
:yahoo: :yahoo: :dance: :dance: :wacko3: :music: :dance2: :dance2: :mail1: :crazy: :blush: :sarcastic: :pardon:
:good2:
Just maybe worth noting (and anyone feel free to point out something I missed, I only paid 550 of the 1100, the rest upon pick-up), this is the list I gave me friend for looking over it:
QuoteAsk him when the chain was last replaced.
Ask if you can see the air filter, and ask when it was replaced; if he's really reluctant to do so because it does involve pulling a couple things apart, that's ok, but if he's willing, check it out. It doesn't have to be WHITE, but it should not be BLACK. (An exception would be him having a K&N filter, in which case, don't even both pulling it out.)
Look at the foot pegs and brake/clutch levers on the handlebars--look for scuffing/scratches, or seeing if they were bent. (I'm pretty certain you won't find anything like that on this bike, but check.) We're trying to see if the bike has ever fallen over--he's told me it was once, long ago, just in a garage.
Look for any cracks in the sides of the tires, and check the 'depth' of the tread on the tire--He said tires are decent, so I don't expect new, but I do need to be able to drive home. I'm expecting like 2-3cm deep on the back.
This is a HEAVY (560 lbs) bike, please do not drop it--best to have him do most of the handling of it. Ask him to show you what it looks like when he tries to turn it on--if possible, it'd be great to have this filmed so I could look at it. Get him to turn the key on, show what works and what doesn't, and to try pressing the starter button.
Look inside the gas tank with a flashlight. You are looking for rust. Unfortunately, he has made the mistake of storing it without gas in the tank, so this is a real possibility (though we're lucky he stored it inside, so hopefully not too bad). A few small spots are expected, but hopefully not. If it is not metal inside, but lined with a materal, you won't find any rust--ask about that, see when it was done.
If it's not too inconvenient, get him to roll it in 5th gear for you, just demonstrating that it's not seized, as he said. If he looks annoyed, or like you're asking too much, or it looks exasperating, not huge, might want to let off... But it is kind of important to check.
While it's rolling, ask him to show the brakes work--just roll it in neutral and have him pull in the front, and then the back brake--or, he can do this on the center stand, having you roll the tire with your hand and then him pulling the brakes, front and rear respectively.
On the center stand, turn the steering bars back and forth, slowly, trying to feel for any 'notches' or rough spots, any spot that isn't a perfectly smooth rolling back and forth. This will mean replacing the headset bearings, which suck. But it may just come with the package.
Lastly, ask him about the bike's maintenance history. Did he do the oil changes himself, or have someone else do them? Did he ever have the brake and clutch lines flushed? Brake pads replaced?
Thanks again. Really, Tyler, I watch out for my friends. I drove to Mexico city when I did and stopped putting it off because a friend from Israel was going through a hard time and needed to know his friends were there for him. If you need something, and I can help, let me know.
Call me if you'd feel more comfortable while going through the list--or if you'd prefer to have me giving these instructions over the phone.
Apparently, turning the key does *nothing*. No lights. At one point it was so. He claims the battery was fully charged before he came, but that as soon as he put it on the charger, it went straight to 'float' (doesn't mean the battery is good, I know, but shouldn't I see a neutral light pop up?).
But that almost makes me think it should be pretty straightforward--it's even before the key! Not much to troubleshoot there, especially if the solenoid was replaced, no?
absolute bargain , going or not
All that hunting paid off! Seriously, I searched every craigslist in the country for "Yamaha FJ." This was option #3... #1 was an '89, running, but in rough shape cosmetically and needing carb tuning, for $650. #2 was a perfectly fine, running, and nice looking '89 for $1350. Both were sold before I got to them, alas.
But I'm happy. I'm already getting so attached... Planning the route back... Looks like this (https://maps.google.com/maps?saddr=Seattle,+WA,+United+States&daddr=44.62793,-123.96465+to:42.59209,-124.39587+to:40.5484,-124.14543+to:40.17661,-122.23414+to:40.04068,-122.51576+to:39.6663,-122.52571+to:39.78739,-123.2482+to:39.19515,-123.76512+to:38.55663,-123.30831+to:37.775,-122.47183+to:37.32092,-122.40196+to:36.3013,-121.87817+to:35.2883,-120.66497+to:34.76301,-120.30128+to:34.71435,-120.18921+to:36.52579,-116.88283+to:36.11421,-115.15493+to:35.20564,-111.6479+to:Austin,+TX,+United+States&hl=en&ll=34.379713,-95.625&spn=49.43779,110.478516&sll=34.642247,-114.949951&sspn=6.27118,13.809814&geocode=FcJp1gIdWVy1-ClVM-iTLBCQVDGa1URpRmUlEA%3BFdr3qAIdFnOc-Cn1n1Q2IdTBVDEFTZixhhUp4g%3BFVrniQIdot6V-CkBC-BqkNXEVDFpDnBWY9SfTg%3BFTC4agId6rCZ-CmlMAR5ehLUVDGZCs7bzrZUYg%3BFeILZQId5Nq2-CnBx3-cu4OCgDER1hsAVsBxNw%3BFej4YgId0I6y-ClTd4ZvQXqCgDFbIum2Gx0V2A%3BFXxCXQId8mey-ClHS2vsIlCCgDGk8Z9vTIrq7g%3BFX4bXwIduGGn-CmFPvFx0PqBgDHTYoC_ogLMyw%3BFQ4SVgIdgH6f-CnlEhmiE6uBgDFRLuFg3mbacA%3BFdZTTAId6nam-Ck5K9abhrCGgDEDAVnu7wUzJg%3BFZhmQAIdajqz-CmfxkwrFYeFgDHZ9zNZ9IBsGA%3BFdh4OQIdWEu0-Cl3VkwnfgiPgDEIjFaS2khcRg%3BFfTpKQIdZkm8-Cmj8rRjQpGNgDErJVv9TXMPmQ%3BFex0GgIddszO-ClTqRooq_HsgDEST2Diighjww%3BFQJxEgIdIFnU-Cnxs1pMcwXsgDHtdiPw6xqERw%3BFe6yEQId5g7W-CkxC_Nd3QDsgDEyPDUgil6V1g%3BFd5WLQIdcoII-SmxRYKTF0THgDGjvFQ2Dz9WoQ%3BFSIPJwIdDuAi-Sk9Hy9NTsTIgDFYqz_ll2PaOg%3BFQgyGQIdZGNY-SkZkD61SI8thzHVAsRPGMAPNg%3BFRHXzQEdK48s-ikvA8ygmbVEhjF61WnUS0abXQ&mra=dpe&mrsp=16&sz=7&via=1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10,11,12,13,14,15,16,17,18&t=m&z=4) so far.
Includes a brief stop to Canada (since I've never been, and I'll be so close!) that I didn't put on the map. Then portland. Then Hwy 1. Then through the Redwoods on what I read was called "the finest road ever designed" on a certain motorcyclist forum. Then back through the redwoods further down, heading for hwy 1 again. Then to San Fransisco and the Golden Gate Bridge (!), more of Hwy 1, Santa Barbera, Death Valley, Las Vegas, The Grand Canyon, and finally back home (don't know anything worth seeing in New Mexico, anyone have recommendations? I know there are some roads worth going, but last time I was there I was 13, don't remember a thing--it can't be known as the land of enchantment for nothing though). I'll be living dirt cheap, camping and couchsurfing and making sandwhiches from stuff bought at grocery stores.
Optimistic? We'll see! I'm not opposed to getting a temp job somewhere if I run low on cash. Plan is to sell my current motorcycle ASAP and try and get at least a grand out of it and $500 out of spare parts I have via ebay. That should last me a carefully frugal month and a half.
So excited! Never been west of NM/CO. And I honestly believe I'll be riding this bike for at least a decade, if not the rest of my life.
(As you can see, I'm pretty excited.)
I sure wish I could edit even after a bit of time. I often go back and correct details normally... Like adjusting the route (https://maps.google.com/maps?saddr=Seattle,+WA,+United+States&daddr=44.62793,-123.96465+to:42.59209,-124.39587+to:40.5484,-124.14543+to:40.17661,-122.23414+to:40.04068,-122.51576+to:39.6663,-122.52571+to:39.78739,-123.2482+to:39.19515,-123.76512+to:38.55663,-123.30831+to:37.775,-122.47183+to:37.32092,-122.40196+to:36.3013,-121.87817+to:35.2883,-120.66497+to:36.60465,-116.98042+to:36.52579,-116.88283+to:36.11421,-115.15493+to:35.20564,-111.6479+to:Austin,+TX,+United+States&hl=en&sll=36.456636,-116.125488&sspn=6.131115,13.809814&geocode=FcJp1gIdWVy1-ClVM-iTLBCQVDGa1URpRmUlEA%3BFdr3qAIdFnOc-Cn1n1Q2IdTBVDEFTZixhhUp4g%3BFVrniQIdot6V-CkBC-BqkNXEVDFpDnBWY9SfTg%3BFTC4agId6rCZ-CmlMAR5ehLUVDGZCs7bzrZUYg%3BFeILZQId5Nq2-CnBx3-cu4OCgDER1hsAVsBxNw%3BFej4YgId0I6y-ClTd4ZvQXqCgDFbIum2Gx0V2A%3BFXxCXQId8mey-ClHS2vsIlCCgDGk8Z9vTIrq7g%3BFX4bXwIduGGn-CmFPvFx0PqBgDHTYoC_ogLMyw%3BFQ4SVgIdgH6f-CnlEhmiE6uBgDFRLuFg3mbacA%3BFdZTTAId6nam-Ck5K9abhrCGgDEDAVnu7wUzJg%3BFZhmQAIdajqz-CmfxkwrFYeFgDHZ9zNZ9IBsGA%3BFdh4OQIdWEu0-Cl3VkwnfgiPgDEIjFaS2khcRg%3BFfTpKQIdZkm8-Cmj8rRjQpGNgDErJVv9TXMPmQ%3BFex0GgIddszO-ClTqRooq_HsgDEST2Diighjww%3BFeqKLgIdPAUH-Sl3BrvmFFDHgDEhBWgtcdTI2Q%3BFd5WLQIdcoII-SmxRYKTF0THgDGjvFQ2Dz9WoQ%3BFSIPJwIdDuAi-Sk9Hy9NTsTIgDFYqz_ll2PaOg%3BFQgyGQIdZGNY-SkZkD61SI8thzHVAsRPGMAPNg%3BFRHXzQEdK48s-ikvA8ygmbVEhjF61WnUS0abXQ&mra=dvme&mrsp=14&sz=7&via=1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10,11,12,13,14,15,16,17&t=m&z=7) slightly so that it now skips some of the most southern portion of California and goes from the coast in a more direct route to Death Valley.
:hi: Great news buddy :good2:
Now go ride her like you stole her and bring her home for lots of T L C... :yahoo:
Keep us posted... (popcorn)
John.
This is a ballsy endeavor on your part!
I wish you much good luck and safe travels.
This is the start of an epic "FJ" love affair.
Take (and post) pictures!!!
Steve
Good luck to you.
Hope you have no further problems with the bike once you get it running.
That's one hell of a trip to take on a bike you have no history with.
Some suggestions of things to see along your route;
You mentioned the Grand Canyon. Take the time to walk into the canyon and really experience it.
Depending on your fitness and the weather you should be able to walk down to the Colorado River and back to the Rim in a (long) day. If you're not quite that fit, even getting 1/2 way down and back is well worth the time.
Just East of Flagstaff is the turn-off to Walnut Creek National Monument.
This is a fantastic enlightening experience of cave dwellings. Plan on 1/2 day
South of Albuquerque on US25 is Truth or Consequences. Best steak house I've ever been to.
Also very near there is Elephant Butte State park
North of Albuquerque is SantaFe capital of NM. Wonderful small city which has been been in existence since 1500s IIRC. If I were to live in US, this would be my location of choice.
Albuquerque itself has lots of interesting places including some great restaurants and the Sandias overlooking.
Remember the Sierra Club motto, "Take only pictures, leave only footprints" (and tire tracks :-)
Cheers,
Arnie
THE BATTERY IS DEAD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Send your friend to Walmart for the cheapest battery they have that fits. Take it to the bike and see if the lights turn on. They should have come on when the battery charger was hooked up.
I have good batteries and if they sit for a week without use, the charger will not go directly to float. Maybe the owner left something disconnected while troubleshooting.
DavidR.
I'll certainly take pictures, but my big 'thing' is video. I edit video as a pasttime, and have a pretty decent camera for doing so (720p). Should make for some great stuff!
Arnie, thanks a lot for those suggestions. I'll definitely take those to heart. I'll definitely hike a good deal of it, on your advice. (My fitness level is quite good, so I'll make sure to enjoy it properly. I'm sure I'll be ready to walk around after all that sitting--even though I'll be riding in a corbin saddle! :yahoo: ).
As far as Truth or Consequences being the best steak house you've ever been to--I'll give it a try, but I have a hard time believing they can beat the steak houses in Texas. ;) (Plug for my home state, come on.)
I'll make sure to add Santa Fe to the route.
As far as the Sierra club motto, well spoken; I'm well familiar with it, as they are very present with and active in the climbing community, and are responsible for a lot of places being open to climbing in the US that otherwise would not be.
As far as it being ballsy--Ah, what the hell, I've got you guys if I run into something, bike come with a Clymer, and I always bring a pretty full set of road tools with me (that tank bag looks pretty wimpy compared to what I keep, and mine is virtually only filled with tools and parts and electrical equipment and fuses, etc.). I'll make it one way or another. "Where there's a will, there's a way. Where there's not a way, there's a hell of a good story."
As far as the battery being dead, I have high hopes! But I really imagine the mechanic he had it with should have picked up on that, unless he was a complete ass hole. And I really hope the owner replaced it anyways. As far as sending a friend over, I won't be attempting a single repair of any kind until the title is in my hand, and the title doesn't change hands until I've paid in full--but you can bet I'll be bringing one over with me when I arrive!
However, keep in mind that the owner probably didn't turn the key while the battery was hooked up to the float charger, so I don't know about that. But it definitely sounds like a pretty simple fix, gotta be an open circuit between the battery and the fusebox, or we'd at least be hearing some clicking. I spent all night thinking about it, and I'm just convinced it can't be that complicated.
I found this (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mk1T5H5TPTM#ws) excellent video on using wiring diagrams, which I've always shied away from.
But the way I figure it, worst case scenario, should I just be able to run wires straight from the battery to the fusebox and bypass a lot of stuff? What is the absolute minimalist wiring setup I might need, if I 'replace' (overlay a new) 'harness'? Power to coils and a new battery, and should I be able to push-start it? Another wire connecting the 'lights' fuse to the battery, so I don't get pulled over for no tail light... Anything else that MUST get power for the thing to run? I am no electric expert, but I know it's simple, I know I know enough, and I know I can learn what I don't know if I need to. (Worst case scenario, just what does it take to start it up and drive it home from the guy's house, I mean.)
It's not circuit boards, though, yeah?
(And please, if I'm completely wrong and saying something stupid here, tell me.)
Definitely get a schematic diagram and take it with you!
Start at the battery then go to the ignition switch. Red/white striped wire is switched, I think Brown has power all the time (but it's been a long time snce I've studied the schematic).
Good luck.
DavidR.
and if its dead at the start switch, you should be able to start it or at least turn it over , , blue/ white wire at start solenoid ? take apart at connecter and touch the Female side to earth with a length of wire, piece of melal ect
Looks like you have most of your bases covered for trouble shooting once you get to Seattle. My 2 cents is.... With a battery that has a good charge and no idiot lights and headlight when you turn the ignition switch on. Check the ignition switch circuit for a broken wire, or the switch itself may be bad. Also take a look at the main fuse, should be like 30 Amp. I have had one blow on a different model and trouble shot the wiring for 2 days before I found it.
Good luck on getting it up and running. Can't wait to hear the story of how your trip went.
Fred
Great to hear you finally landed one!
Your proposed trip on a bike you're yet to see and that doesn't run yet is ill advised, fraught with risk, optimistic in the extreme, likely to give you grief along the way and one that no sensible person would take on.
It is also EXACTLY what I would have done 30 years ago!
Good luck and keep us posted on your adventure.
Noel
Does anyone have a good schematic online somewhere I can look at and start studying in advance? I'm sure the clymers has one in it, but I won't have that until I get there, and it'd be nice to have my theories mapped out in advance. In the files section, I see one for the 1100 (how similar? Also, I think it's only black and white, unfortunately), and I see the Factory Service "manual" for the 84/86 (but no wiring diagram inside, oddly enough--just a list of electrical components with pictures, without wiring information; this is actually the book titled "Service information", a supplement to the actual manual).
I haven't gone through it in depth, but I had to do a lot of digging to find it, and it looks very promising. Any feedback on this?
http://web.archive.org/web/20050226024019/http://www.megageek.com/mcelectric/mcflow1_raster.gif (http://web.archive.org/web/20050226024019/http://www.megageek.com/mcelectric/mcflow1_raster.gif)
http://web.archive.org/web/20050226024019/http://www.megageek.com/mcelectric/mcflow2_raster.gif (http://web.archive.org/web/20050226024019/http://www.megageek.com/mcelectric/mcflow2_raster.gif)
http://web.archive.org/web/20050226024019/http://www.megageek.com/mcelectric/mcflow3_raster.gif (http://web.archive.org/web/20050226024019/http://www.megageek.com/mcelectric/mcflow3_raster.gif)
Thanks for the encouragement, Ribbert. Trying to make some memories to hold onto in my saner years, whenever they come. ;)
Will definitely be checking the fuses right off--Only problem I had on my current trip was a complete electrical failure that I couldn't solve on the side of the road, so in the space of an hour I improvised a way to bypass the key switch by tying some wires in the fusebox together (not recommended, but in a fix, exactly what the doctor called for--not good to be stuck on the side of the road in Mexico at 1am in the rain...), which seemed to be the problem, and effectively hotwired it. Road it home, and after a lot of troubleshooting, realized that even though the fuse looked good, voltage wasn't getting to its output side.
Replaced it, bam. Everything was golden. Lesson learned, don't trust visual confirmation of fuses.
When I get to the bike, if I can't solve it on my own, you can bet I'll be starting a proper thread to search out some help troubleshooting. As it is, I think I won't make it out to the bike for about 3 weeks.
Sounds like an adventure. Dress warm for up here in the NW and prepair for some rain. Wish I was in the Seattle area to help. I live in Meridian, Idaho if you are in the area.
Check the files section for an online copy for an 1984 service manual. It's around 79mb of data. If gmail would let that large of a file to go though I would send it to you.
Hopefully it is something simple. Pull the seat and fuel tank off. I would start with a new fresh battery. Check all the simple stuff first. ALL fuses. connectors and wiring. RUN/STOP switch to run, kick stand up, in neutral, etc.. Simple stuff first.
A little deeper. Starter, Starter relay, kick stand interlock, run/stop switch, the switch on the clutch lever. Have a voltmeter on hand, a couple of chunks of 12 gauge stranded wire with alligator clips might be useful in jumping or bypassing for trouble shooting purposes.
Hard to cover everything in the dark. Study the service manual. The operators manuals are also on line. It will answer stupid questions like how to remove the seat etc..
Allawys lots of help here on the fourm.
As a search note, I did find the manual for the '86/87 online on a FORMERLY awesome website: scribd.com.
Yamaha FJ1100,1200 84-93 Clymer Service Manual ENG (http://www.scribd.com/doc/27610778/Yamaha-FJ1100-1200-84-93-Clymer-Service-Manual-ENG#)
Unfortunately, since last time I was there, they have started CHARGING for downloads--$9/month. Frustrating. They were free for years.
Anyways, it's viewable online, so I took some screen captures and cobbled complete versions of the wiring diagram together for easy viewing. I guess I should add these to the "Files" section?
http://imageshack.us/a/img513/474/8687wiringdiagram.png (http://imageshack.us/a/img513/474/8687wiringdiagram.png)
http://imageshack.us/a/img14/4015/8687wiringdiagrambig.png (http://imageshack.us/a/img14/4015/8687wiringdiagrambig.png) <---That one is bigger, the one above is easier to see all on one screen, but a little small.
The method for making this, in case someone wants to add ones for their own bikes, was to look at part of the page, press 'prnt scrn' button, open paint, paste. Clean up so that only page content is there. Zoom out and enlarge the canvass. Go back to webpage. Scroll down. Prnt scrn. Repeat ad nauseum.
That manual linked above has wiring diagrams at the end for every FJ made, US and UK versions.
Sure wish these were in color though. Coloring these would be a lot of work to do by hand.
With a trip like that planned you should consider ordering a set vibranators from RPM. They will make a huge difference in your comfort. Good luck. I'm looking forward to hearing how this works out.
Quote from: ribbert on October 05, 2012, 06:57:20 PM
Great to hear you finally landed one!
Your proposed trip on a bike you're yet to see and that doesn't run yet is ill advised, fraught with risk, optimistic in the extreme, likely to give you grief along the way and one that no sensible person would take on.
It is also EXACTLY what I would have done 30 years ago!
Good luck and keep us posted on your adventure.
Noel
I did that last November, bought my latest FJ in Canada without a test drive, left from Kitchener, Ontario and drove to Mexico City in 3.5 days via Nashville, Waco and Nuevo Laredo, than drove more around both Mexico to Veracruz to Ensenada, Cabo San Lucas, Mazatlan (not on the ferry), Guadalajara and back to Mexico City before heading two weeks later to Panama through Central America. More than 20 thousand kilometers in less than 2 months and only had problems with a front wheel bearings($30 in Mazatlan), leaking clutch slave cylinder($40 in Mexico City) and a few used tire changes($160 Ensenada, Mexico City). FJs are incredible bikes. If there is a better bike, I don´t know how it could be.
Greg
Wow! I would say way to outdo me, but it is honestly just super different. I could make it in 3 days, but I'm just going to enjoy the West Coast because I've never been there. Sounds like it was amazing--great to hear it all worked out!
Out of curiousity, what was the deal with your wheel bearings? Were you just feeling resistance, a wobble, or did it lock up, or what?
So you didn't cross the Darien gap after all that and just keep going on to Tierra Del Fuego? ;)
Put up a thread for the electrical discussion:
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=7617.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=7617.0)
Quote from: fintip on October 04, 2012, 01:31:15 PM
I'm pretty excited. A little nervous, hoping someone doesn't get money to the guy before my friend does...
Nervous? Try these
(http://i450.photobucket.com/albums/qq229/Sky_5/RectalDilators.jpg)
bloody nervous now :bad:
Quote from: fintip on October 06, 2012, 01:28:18 PM
Wow! I would say way to outdo me, but it is honestly just super different. I could make it in 3 days, but I'm just going to enjoy the West Coast because I've never been there. Sounds like it was amazing--great to hear it all worked out!
Out of curiousity, what was the deal with your wheel bearings? Were you just feeling resistance, a wobble, or did it lock up, or what?
So you didn't cross the Darien gap after all that and just keep going on to Tierra Del Fuego? ;)
I made it in 3.5 days because I had to. I had been invited by the Santa Muertes of Mexico City to accompany them on a journey called the Cabo a Rabo (Head to Tail) of Mexico. We were leaving on Sunday so I needed to arrive on Saturday. It was a very cold and wet trip until I left Waco.
When the bearing went, it was a grinding noise that would started at 40-55 kph when I left Culiacan heading towards Mazatlan. As soon as it started making noise I stopped, thinking it was the brakes grinding and disconnected the calipers but the noise continued. Then it started pouring and I knew then it was the bearings and being Friday after shop closing, I had no choice but to continue on. Thankfully, this portion of the 4-lane highway had a shoulder to it as most highways in latin america do not. I drove the 200 approximate kilometers to Mazatlan at that speed in a downpour. Arrived and called my friends in Santa Muertes and they set me up with a cheap motel and a mechanic with garage-parts the next morning. $24 for hotel, $30 for new bearings and was on my way again by 11:30 am.
It is not possible to drive across the Darien Gap at this point in time....too many guerillas and drugs trafficking there. My wife is Colombian (married here in Panama on 14 of February). She has her flight to Cartagena and I am thinking about going there with my bike on a short pleasure cruise on a boat called the Stahlratte that ferries bikes and passengers from San Blas Islands in Panama to Cartagena for $900 which includes 4-5 days on the boat or beaches in between and all food included. You only need to pitch in with working on the boat or cooking. You need to buy your beer, rum or pop for one dollar a bottle..nothing more.
Been quite an experience down here in Panama. Have met most of the bikers here in Panama. It is a lot different than other places. There are a few of what I would call real bikers but most are just people who use their bikes as a way of showing they have money. It is funny but my $1,600 FJ1200 gets more attention than just about any other bike I have seen. Everywhere I go, the people want to talk about it and take pictures of me with them and the bike. I would recommend making the trip through Mexico and Central America to anyone. I never had any problems with the police at all especially when I was with the Santa Muertes. Hahaha. I have even passed a lot of them doing over 170kph in the desert in Sonora. Contrary to popular belief, it is the Mexicans that the police bother the most. Normally they leave the foreigners alone. There is a lot of toll booths and speed bumps there too. Can get expensive for the toll booths but the prices for motorcycles will be halved soon. Anyway, if anyone is down my way, let me know. I have mechanic friends and know where there is great beaches and there is plenty of cheap beer everywhere.
Awesome trip. Really amazing.
I was joking about the Darien gap... You'd need a Rokon (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rokon_motorcycle) to do that. One of my earlier plans long ago involved driving down to South America, which is when I learned about the Darien Gap... And scratched that plan. Haha.
Sounds like one hell of a story. I definitely intend retrying a full Central America trip again some time.
Driving 45kph for 200km in a downpour sucks... 4 hours?
I rarely meet people as crazy as I am... Congrats. Bet you were a bit nervous after that 170kph pass, haha!
Also, congratulations on getting a Colombian girl! I hear they're fantastically beautiful, and that's certainly been my experience. As for me, if I ever get a bike of mine onto Colombian soil, I'm driving all the way to Tierra Del Fuego, whether I have to beg borrow or steal to make it...
Hopefully I'll catch you in some distant country one day, you sound like a hell of a guy to ride with.
:good2: Keep the rubber on the road my friend.
Kyle
Ticket to seattle purchased... Got it for $120. Arriving the 23rd, 8 days!
Aaaaaand... My XJ is sold! Buyer is coming by in less than an hour with cash in hand. I got $1500 for it! (I would have taken $950 in a pinch; listing it for $1450 originally, I got 4 phone calls with serious buyers who came to look at it on a moment's notice in less than 24 hours, and 7 overall contacts (?!?!?!). I ended up relisting it for $1500 and putting some new pictures up by the end of the day, and within an hour a girl called who ended up texting me later that evening saying she had decided she wanted it.)
(She's cute, too. ;)
Apparently I'm a good ad-writer.
Hwy 1, redwoods, Yosemite, Grand Canyon... Here I come! :yahoo: :biggrin: :yahoo:
Now to buy some cold weather gear...
:hi: Superb... :good2: way to go...Now let the real adventure(s!!) begin buddy :yahoo: :bye2:
Keep us all posted... :morning1: (popcorn)
John.
Kyle, what bike did you decide on? Is there a link? Do plan on picking it up in Seattle and tour?
If so...Has anyone checked the bike out for you?
Pretty ballsy to take a unknown, used bike on a long trip. It's a long way back to Austin.
I did have a friend go look at it, and I gave him a detailed procedure of stuff to check out, and talked with the owner for a long time.
Link: http://seattle.craigslist.org/kit/mcy/3290840975.html (http://seattle.craigslist.org/kit/mcy/3290840975.html)
I am not sure if it is still up, as the whole of the seattle craigslist has been down for me all day for some reason.
And what's life without a little adventure?! :good2:
Just go to post #1 of this thread as the ad was posted at the very beginning.
Randy - RPM
Okay, first post...got it. Thanks Randy.
Yep, it sounds like an adventure all right. Your route should take you by Sacramento so if needed, a stop in Oakdale at RPM could be a option for you..... Rain gear and a heated vest are a must.
Have a safe trip.
Check in and let us know how you are doing...
Quote from: fintip on October 15, 2012, 07:17:38 PM
I did have a friend go look at it, and I gave him a detailed procedure of stuff to check out, and talked with the owner for a long time.
Link: http://seattle.craigslist.org/kit/mcy/3290840975.html (http://seattle.craigslist.org/kit/mcy/3290840975.html)
I am not sure if it is still up, as the whole of the seattle craigslist has been down for me all day for some reason.
And what's life without a little adventure?! :good2:
just catching up on this post , you are a crazy bastard :good2: hell ya . make it happen .
there is a wiring connector under the faring on the right side of the 86 that will get loose and cause the problems you are having.
If it were me I would check all connections and install new battery and tires , flush all fluids .
bring a clutch slave repair kit cause it is gonna start leaking 100 miles into the trip.
I am in sacramento ca.
there are fj'ers all along your trip route if you get in trouble , just throw a shout out. :shout:
good luck and I look forward to hearing of your adventure.
A heated jacket liner/vest is a requirement. It's getting downright chilly here in the NW..
Also swing into Big 5 sporting goods or someplace similar and get a "Turtle Fur Neck Warmer". I think Cyclegear also carries them.
Rain gear, waterproof boots and gloves are also necessary. The rain has set back in and we've had quite a bit of it come pouring down the last few days. We went the entire summer and then some without any measurable rain which is a first in quite a long time. Too bad you couldn't have done this just a few weeks earlier.
Previous owner claims to have already rebuild clutch slave when I asked about it. :)
Mark Olsen, know what the connector you have in mind is called or what it does that could cause this? Color maybe?
It does seem like a good route for FJ support if things get hard. I'll be posting about it as I go, and will be glad to go on day trips with people as I pass through their area! :)
Stopping in at RPM might be too much of a temptation to pass up?
As far as gear. I am only a little lost.
I have a scarf someone's mom handmade in Mexico, I believe it's wool, I was guessing I'd try that first and see if I can get away with it. I would like to have a really heavy coat instead of an electrically heated one if possible, but is that basically guaranteed to be inadequate? Hoping for heavy but not heated gloves. Basically I'd like to avoid the hassle and cost of heated gear if at all avoidable, but I also do NOT want to be miserable while driving, so an extra 100 or even 200 dollars is worth the difference between comfort and misery on this long of a trip.
So: Warm gear on a budget, what's a minimalist approach?
(Also, I keep rain gear on the bike at all times, and use it often. Just used it today.)
As far as doing the trip a few weeks ago... You're telling me. Ah well, no time like the present, haha. I'll probably be trying to fly past Washington and Oregon and try and get to California ASAP, where it should be a bit milder, I think (right?).
If things really get colder than expected, a newspaper in the front of one's jacket can be a lifesaver. BTDT
Tourmaster make an electrically heated vest and electrically heated gloves that should meet all your needs.
Cost is under $200 in the US.
Arnie
Quote from: fintip on October 16, 2012, 07:25:04 PM
So: Warm gear on a budget, what's a minimalist approach?
Stop for Pizza every 30 min, stuff it in front (don't worry about the hot cheese in your crotch), remember to toss the prior pizza.
I rode over the Grape Vine (So Cal) and thought the rain was gonna turn to snow. I was so Fucking Cold in the the only gear I had, insulated rain suit, winter rated water proof gloves, rain cover on my boots (not heated). Like riding in traffic, have an exit plan at all times....
Quote from: Arnie on October 16, 2012, 07:38:38 PM
Tourmaster make an electrically heated vest and electrically heated gloves that should meet all your needs.
Cost is under $200 in the US.
Arnie
There is NO SUBSTITUTE for heated gear in the cold and wet; hands down, none. Given where you are going, I would spend that $200 and go dirt cheap on accommodations, hostels, couch surfing etc. for as long as it takes to get back on budget, without blinking an eye.
My $0.02
Dan
The post below is from another area in the forum. The last part of it might help in troubleshooting your bike or at least something to think about.
zz28zz
Jr. Member
**
Offline Offline
Location: Austin, Tx
Posts: 38
Re: Bringing FJ out of hibernation
« Reply #32 on: Today at 11:38:35 AM »
I'm getting close. Got the new clutch slave cyl installed. Master is mounted.
Now for the line flush. I went to a few different stores but could not locate "contact cleaner".
I did find some "electrical cleaner". Guess I'll try that.
In regards to flushing the master cyl: I got the master cyl off ebay. It's pretty dry but the banjo bolt was a little wet with old brake fluid. Can I just spray some cleaner thru the holes in the reservoir into the the master cyl and spray in thru the banjo fitting, or does the plunger need to come out and get all traces of the Dot3 out?
I'll be introducing the Dot5 into the slave cyl bleeder port and back filling the reservoir anyway. So after the reservoir is full, I could suck all of it out with my vacuum bleeder gizmo and refill it again thru the slave bleeder port.
Sounds like I may have answered my own question.. yes
Oh yeah, I also got my flasher relay (from ebay) today. It's installed and I'm happy to report the turn signals are working like a champ!
I also discovered the starter circuit goes thru the flasher relay (I was wondering what the 4 extra wires were for. Schematic showed 5 wires, relay physically has 9 wires). I tried to crank eng with relay disconnected. Headlight went out so I know the starter switch was working, but the starter didn't make a sound. With replacement relay installed, eng cranks normally. That might be a handy piece of info to have in the future since the wiring diagram does not indicate the flasher relay contains starter circuitry. shok
Cyclegear has a new line of heated gear. $150 for a jacket liner with a free heat controller through the end of the month.
http://www.cyclegear.com/eng/product/heated_jacket_liner/web1011442 (http://www.cyclegear.com/eng/product/heated_jacket_liner/web1011442)
Damn good deal. $150 well spend and will likely save your life. Take it from someone who put off buying heated gear for too long. It's worth every penny spent.
Quote from: fintip on October 16, 2012, 07:25:04 PM
So: Warm gear on a budget, what's a minimalist approach?
Go to Craigslist and buy some heated gear... you will be infinitely happier in anything below 55 degrees.
I'm in San Jose and would be happy to host for a night if it works out.
Frank
Quote from: fintip on October 16, 2012, 07:25:04 PM
Previous owner claims to have already rebuild clutch slave when I asked about it. :)
Mark Olsen, know what the connector you have in mind is called or what it does that could cause this? Color maybe?
when was the slave changed ?the connector is the big ass one ,you can't miss it after the faring is off.
also pdxfj is a great resource in that area of the country,
Thanks Mark, that's a good tip.
Not sure exactly when it was done, and I also never got around to checking whether or not he used DOT4 or 5, unfortunately. I do know he switched to synth oil before he parked it, and I only use 'dino' oil, so I'll be doing an oil change for sure right away.
I appreciate that Flynt. I might take you up on that, just to get a good look at a nice later-model FJ and expand my education, get an expert's eyes on my FJ and see what you notice that I might not.
As far as craigslist... For the past two days, at least, I CANNOT get the seattle craigslist to work for me. I get a blank page, 'server not found', etc. No idea why. I can get other Washington craigslists, or other craigslists around the country, but not seattle. Most bizarre thing.
But I'll definitely be getting heated gear one way or another. I think I have found a reasonable setup on jafrum.com and will have it shipped out to my friend in Seattle.
Movenon, that's SUPER helpful, thanks so much. Will definitely keep that in mind.
Dan, monkey, arnie, point taken. Definitely getting heated gear. lib, good to know about the newspaper. I remember hearing that was a homeless person's trick, never knew if it actually worked.
Cold weather gear discussion I went ahead and started having in the cold weather thread: http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=7470.msg69285#msg69285 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=7470.msg69285#msg69285)
i have been a year round rider for about 3 years now. I have learned that if I can keep my core warm, my extremities don't get too bad (uncomfortable, yes, but not life threatening) a heated vest is great for that. But heated gloves and boot inserts would be freaking heaven. I have made do with pocket warmers in my socks on really bad days. tho, in Va/ Nc a bad day is low 40's or 30's, rarely gets below that.
I've had some good luck with the firstgear carbon heated gloves ...... one of the few (only?) heated gloves with some actual crash protection for your hands. Nice and warm AND waterproof!
http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/14/67/904/10885/ITEM/Firstgear-Carbon-Heated-Gloves.aspx (http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/14/67/904/10885/ITEM/Firstgear-Carbon-Heated-Gloves.aspx)
i love the fact i can get have the dexterity of a summer glove and still keep my fingers nice and warm (even with the power off)
KOokaloo!
I understand you are looking for an adventure but to to be honest I think you are screwing up with this plan of yours. There are so many unknowns on this bike. The having sat up so long is a huge deal on a bike of this age...... Seals, hoses, carbs, clutch on and on and you are planning on picking it up getting it running and taking a long trip on this bike with so many unknowns. It's not like you can just go into any dealer and get parts for this bike in the middle of BFE. :wacko1: :wacko2:
I bought a low mile bike and I've owned it a while and I'm still not comfortable getting that far from home on it. I guess your risk tolerance is much higher than mine. Good luck. (popcorn). Watching to see how this goes.
Quote from: I make oil on October 18, 2012, 05:26:56 AM
It's not like you can just go into any dealer and get parts for this bike in the middle of BFE.
You don't even need to be in BFE to NOT get FJ parts. I gave up ordering parts from the dealer years ago. They want to charge me full retail price to order the part, wait till it gets sent to them, not call me to let me know it's in, then drive back there to pick it up.
Much better that I order it, pay a decent price and it get shipped directly to my home.
I had to call 6 different dealers for a shift detent spring for my '02 FZ1. Finally got a dealer that had one in stock. Amazing that the price was only $3.47! He even had 3 in stock! Unfortunately, he didn't have the gasket for the cover that the spring sits behind. Good thing I didn't rip the original. Took me longer to chase down the part that it did the actually fix it.
DavidR.
Guess who just arrived in Seattle...
:dance2:
Let's see if I can get this thing running and drive it home or not. Anyone up for taking bets? ;)
What kind of battery will be readily available that I could pick up at wall mart or auto zone that would do the trick?
FinTip,
I'm a fan of what you're attempting, and sending good thoughts up your way from Florida.
Take many pictures of your progress to keep us informed. This is better than any reality TV show!
Your trusty steed awaits. You just have to wake her up. :-)
Good luck to you, Sir!!!
Steve
Its a standard 14Ah 12V battery, so you'll be able to get it anywhere that sells motorcycle batteries.
You'll have to make sure that the terminals are in the right spots as yamaha changed which battery, the "A" or "B" was used at some point. For the '91 it was YTX14B in Yasua speak.
Best of luck, I expect this will be an adventure.
Arnie
:good2: Good Luck! You sir have huevos grandes. I hope they don't get busted on this trip. Ahhhhh to be young again.
Quote from: fintip link=topic=7598.msg69989#msg69989 date=1351058999
What kind of battery will be readily available that I could pick up at wall mart or auto zone that would do the trick?
/quote]
Walmart usually carries batteries that are a direct match for the FJ. I believe they rub about $50.00
Fred
So!
I just saw the bike. I pull off the seat and pull out my voltmeter. No reading, so I assume the voltmeter is bad. I get my screwdriver out and put it across the solenoid posts. Nill. I get out my continuity test light and put it between the battery posts. Battery lights it up. Put the clamp on the negative terminal of the battery and poke the solenoid input post with the needle. No light.
?
Put the test light back on the battery. No light.
Switch in my new AGM battery.
Bam. Key turned, everything lights up. Blinkers work.
Apprehensively eye the starter button...
Press....
Nothing.
Awwww.
Screwdriver across the solenoid posts, and...
WHIRR WHIRR WHIRR
Spins!
Doesn't start.
Start thinking fuel. Is there fuel in the bowls? He says there should be, he put 2.5 gallons in the tank, which was empty for the last year, when I asked him to two weeks ago and paid the first half.
And then... "do you hear that?"
Gas, pouring on the ground.
So we spend a while checking, looking for the source. Petcock was securely connected, and we figure it must be related to the vacuum opening the petcock and letting fuel flow. It was quite a flow, a vigorous trickle if that makes sense.
Float bowl screws are in and petcock is put together, also the tank does not feel like it has 2 gallons of fuel, so it seems it was leaking while sitting, slowly, as well.
We don't find anything and don't come up with any other theories, and don't feel like chasing a phantom in the driveway, so we put it together again and put the new battery on the float.
So electrical problem is now just something stopping the starter button from turning it all over. Brand new solenoid that I can hear clicking, by the way, so that's fine.
And then some mystery fuel. Theories on that? Will be picking the bike up with a uhaul tomorrow evening and bringing it to friends parking garage.
Bike looks fantastic, though. Guy seems super responsible. Almost never rode it in the rain. Lots of love. Told me six years ago he drove to Reno to pick it up, running, and drove it back to Seattle. Irony.
Psyched! Anyone in the area available to take a look at it, or maybe have an auxiliary fuel tank?
Anyways, keys and title are mine now. Looks like I got a steal. :D
Would say your needle and seat/s are leaking , was the fuel tap set to on it prime, prime keeps flowing ,, check all fuses, and easy stuff like dirty connections
So maybe a/some floats are stuck.......give each bowl a couple of taps with the screwdriver handle or something similar and see if the flow reduces/stops.
Seems safe to assume that its not flowing into the crankcase via a carb (but check the oil for petrol smell anyway) as it cranked and didn't hydro-lock.
Have you checked that you are getting spark?
It needs spark, fuel and air - one of them must be missing.
Air is the easiest - make sure the filter is allowing air to enter.
Next check for a spark at one of the plugs (1 & 4 cylinder share a coil, 2 & 3 the other). And remember that it fires 2 plugs at once, one cylinder on the compression stroke and the other on the exhaust stroke.
Fuel is easy - if there is fuel in the bowls it should at least try to run.
Of course timing has to be somewhere near right.
Harvy
I agree floats are stuck. Also, could have a bad fuel line somewhere. A dry fuel system is good because helps prevents deposits from old fuel but bad because of drying of orings, seals, etc. Damned if you do damned if you don't. Pull the Carbs down and clean, set floats, put in kits, resyncand and put back to gether. While you have it apart heck the airbox and air filter. Critters like to move in there and live. Also, while you have the carbs off check the boots and diaphrams they dry rot as well.
Electircally powered but no start. Check the kickstand switch first. I bet it's either bad or there is a short in the wire somewhere, especially where it passes the oil filter. Then go through the fuses and ensure you have a good clean ground. I bet that one of those will fix the starting problem. If not check continuity to the selenoid from the starter switch. Not saying you won't have other problems once it turns over but that should get it to turn over.
Once this stuff is done if you get her to turn over and run CHANGE THE OIL before you run it much and install a spin on filter adapter.
Good Luck
check the run/kill switch . remove and clean contacts , also the push button start switch remove and clean contacts. side stand sw as mentioned and did you pull the clutch lever in when trying to start?
this bike is a 86 right?
as mentioned , it sounds like your carbs float needles are leaking past the seat. Be careful with the fuel hose routing or you will have a starvation problem later.
you are gonna need to clean your carbs , no way around it . However you can open the drain screw on each float bowl while tapping on the bowl to get the gunk out of the needle and seat till you see fresh fuel. then let the bowls fill back up and see if they hold with out leaking . you will have to suck on the vacuum line to the petcock to get the fuel to flow as there is no prime on the 86. If your petcock flows fuel without any vacuum applied it is broken and must be replaced.
that should get you on your way. :mail1:
Can someone tell me exactly where the gas comes out, though? Definitely buying the float stuck theory, but then what? The carbs are angled towards the engine, so when the carbs overflow it won't leak out towards the Air box and get in the crankcase like it tends to in the XJ series.
But then where does it leak to? I was just guessing it would flood the engine as it would all leak into the cylinders. How is it exiting the supposedly airtight system and dripping to the floor?
Bike is an 86. Definitely planning to crack open the carbs at this point. I've done carbs before, but there's an FJ specific carb tutorial around here, right?
What actually causes a float to stick? Just gummy fuel residue, right? Carb cleaner and some love should get them moving freely, right? (Hoping its something fixable, not needing to replace this second, like worn needles, as I don't want to wait for shipping! Haha.)
Once I get the carbs clean enough to be functional again, I'll move on to checking if I have spark-and then, I should be able to start it by bridging the solenoid posts. At that point, I'll look into the starter button.
Detail side point, but the fuel gauge: needle, he says, bounces, especially when gas is low, so that it sometimes hops the little peg at the bottom. That's normal for an 86, no fix for that?
Carbs overflow though the hoses that hang down by your swingarm.
Or the hoses are cut short like on my bike and the fuel dumps onto the shield just below and aft of the carbs over the tranny.
Knowing WHERE the gas is coming out does nothing. Knowing WHY there is fuel running out of the carb is what matters. Probably a sticking float. When they sit for a while, the float pivot can get crud on it which makes it hard to move. Other potential causes have already been mentioned.
If the starter relay/solenoid works when jumpered, then it's probably one of the "lockout" sensors. I would suspect the sidestand switch, run switch, or something wrong with the starter button or ignition.
If/when you take the tank off, verify 12 volts at the coil connectors when the ignition is on.
One thing at a time
DavidR.
Helpful tip on pulling the carbs off. With the seat and tank off, unbolt the top 2 bolts of the rear sub frame (2 fairly large bolts with locking tabs). You will see them. With those bolts out you can push the rear subframe down a bit (bike on center stand) allowing a LOT more clearence to pull out the air box and carbs out. Do not fight it any other way trust me...... That's if you have to pull off the carbs.
So, after an intense full day effort involving about 30 phone calls, a uhaul f150, a tow truck, and a ferry, and probably about $60, I have moved the bike and all parts to my friend's parking garage. Work starts tomorrow. (Whew.)
I was only asking where the fuel overflow was coming from to further my understanding for the future. Good to know.
Will be stopping by auto zone to get two cans of carb cleaner. Any other purchases I should make? I'm not all the way there mentally at the moment, I've been working since 8:30 this morning to get this to work, and I am wiped.
This is all great info, by the way. Anywhere carb removal is discussed in depth that I can be pointed to look at specifically? Are putting carbs back on this bike difficult in general?
Broke one of the two tabs to remove the seat, by the way... Kind of pissed. Figure it out tomorrow... I think the previous owner accidentally slammed the seat down wrong, because the last thing he did Was show me how to properly put it on (its a Corbin) after we'd removed it to strap the bike down. "Slam it down," he said... Then it didn't quite work. Got it the second Slam...
One tab wasn't pulling back. Was working in a hurry in the middle of the street, tired... and then it gave.
I digress.
Quote from: movenon on October 25, 2012, 09:55:57 PM
Helpful tip on pulling the carbs off. With the seat and tank off, unbolt the top 2 bolts of the rear sub frame (2 fairly large bolts with locking tabs). You will see them. With those bolts out you can push the rear subframe down a bit (bike on center stand) allowing a LOT more clearence to pull out the air box and carbs out. Do not fight it any other way trust me...... That's if you have to pull off the carbs.
I can't stress enough the difficulty you'll have trying to refit the carbs if you don't do exactly as described above!!!!!!!
Noel
While old bikes may require many things to be replaced, repaired, tweaked etc, in almost all cases it's only ONE thing that stopped it running.
Try and keep the excitement in check and take a measured approach to diagnosing why it won't run.
Randomly jumping all over the shop everytime someone makes a suggestion is just going to cost you a lot of money and time.
The leaking carby for instance, this not an uncommon occurrence, particularly if it's sat for a while and dried out and will eventually need to be dealt with. However it won't stop the bike starting and should respond to opening the drain screw and giving the bowl a couple of sharp raps with something metallic, like a l2" length of rod, but must be steel. In most cases once the engine is running (and vibrating) it far less likely to happen again, and if it does, fix it then.
Noel
Quote from: fintip on October 26, 2012, 01:32:48 AM
This is all great info, by the way. Anywhere carb removal is discussed in depth that I can be pointed to look at specifically? Are putting carbs back on this bike difficult in general?
Do yourself a big favour and buy, borrow or steal a workshop manual. Pete.
Carbs fit back on fairly easily, hardest part is getting them in the boots/head mounts , as the rubber isn't soft as it once was, , also easier to fit. The throttle cables on the carbs , if you removed them ,, before you fit carbs to engine,, but if you take two screws out of the white throttle cable connector where the cables are joined , makes things much easier ,, :good2:
Quote from: oldktmdude on October 26, 2012, 03:23:29 AM
Quote from: fintip on October 26, 2012, 01:32:48 AM
This is all great info, by the way. Anywhere carb removal is discussed in depth that I can be pointed to look at specifically? Are putting carbs back on this bike difficult in general?
Do yourself a big favour and buy, borrow or steal a workshop manual. Pete.
+1. Not just a haynes/clymer, but a proper yamaha manual. Very worth it.
(Think about how stupid most dealership wrenches are... the GYSM is why they're able to do complex jobs properly at times.)
I do have the clymers, and for now I think I'll stick with that and this forum and look into a gysm when I get back to Austin.
All advice duly noted.
However, I've never heard the "bang on the carbs (with a foot long piece of steel? Like my ratchet?) to get the floats to stop sticking" piece before. I've always understood that sticking floats meant disassembling the carb bowls and cleaning the float pivots. But I guess I'll give that a try. Just need to go get a jerrycan and some gas.
Will be doing that later today. First I'm going to go downstairs right now and check for spark. Hope it requires the same size socket as my xj did... or actually, there should be a socket in the original tool kit that also came with the bike.
Update later tonight. Really appreciate the help guys.
Tapping/banging on the carbs will cause a slight vibration and hopefully knock any loose bits that happen to get stuck. If the needle or seat is loaded up, it requires manual cleaning to resolve quickly.
I've got spark! Going to go get some gas and fill up the FJ tank now. My screw driver isn't long enough to quite reach the inner two carbs' drain screws, so I just drained the outer two and banged on everything good.
As for the seat... definitely my fault. I've never had a seat lock that functioned, so I didn't remember that crucial bit of information. Luckily, the seat is fine, and luckily, even with the end of the lever broken off, it is still easy to remove. Definitely kicking myself for that one.
Well that was exciting.
So my buddy's parking garage is a basement parking situation. My space is pretty limited--i park behind his car. So, overnight, gas leaks. There's a small puddle around the bike.
So I go get a hose and spray the gas around, and then apart it towards the drain. Then I get a thrown away cardboard box folded up in the trash and use it as an improvised broom to push the water/gas mix to the drain.
Then I take off the tank and walk it to the gas station to fill it up. Take the tank back to the bike. Start putting the bike back together (holy Christ sticking that fuel line back onto the petcock is difficult! What's the trick?).
And then the fire department shows up.
Explosive hazard. After hearing me explain the situation, they tell me to leave, as it could be dangerous. They proceed to start venting the place.
After an hour, they say they've taken measurements and it wasn't ever close to actually reaching explosive levels, that it was just a small drip overnight. I have apologized to the apartment manager and consoled him. And I agree to take my bike somewhere else.
So I wheel it out into the Seattle drizzle and find some curb down the street.
*sigh*.
Anyways. Now I'm going to study putting the tank back on properly... the lines are all very short, so connecting them with the tank that close to on... having some difficulty with that. What are the lines going to the front and back of the tank for?
Now I just have to wait for the rain to let up and hope that some gas and some banging around on the carbs and a new battery was enough. Otherwise, its working on the street for me, it seems.
Fingers crossed for her mate, , but its an Fj, she willl run :good2:,, as for the latch, what side was it, think I have a spare right side latch with key :scratch_one-s_head:
It was the right side! Thanks, that'd be super.
And I'm crossing my fingers...
I'm still just all grins. Just coasting it down the hill 'riding' it to the parking spot on the street... the bike is going to be an amazing ride.
No worries mate, ill get it out from its house ,, may be able to just change the handel :scratch_one-s_head:,, should of tried to run / bump start her down the hill , but not to worry, , not sure about the front hose, must be a usa thing, rear hose is most. Likely a vent , ,
Some thing to watch out for when working with the fuel lines and petcock.
First of all the main line off the "Y" routes around the top front of the #3 carb, turns to the right and then behind the two down lines into the carbs. The end of the main fuel line will rest between the back of the #1 carb and air box.
To attach the very short fuel line make sure you've removed the left side panel and use some thing to hold the back of the tank up a few inches. Look up under the tank behind the #1 carb and you'll see the fuel line. If it's been dry for a while you'll have a hard time hooking it back up. Use some sort of lubricant (dab of oil, WD-40, brake fluid, etc) to lube the inside of the hose and petcock. A small flashlight will help see how everything lines up under the tank.
Carefully reach up with your fingers and slide the fuel line onto the petcock. Be careful, the end of the petcock is a pressed fitting and is prone to coming lose. If it starts to move around, you'll need to secure it with some JB-Weld, saftey wire, etc. More than one FJ has burned to the ground because of that damn fitting coming lose.
Also don't forget to hook up the vacuum line for the petcock. Without it you could crank the engine until the battery goes dead and it will never fire.
If you have a longer screwdriver you can use the plastic end of it to tap of the fuel bowls.
You've got fire, and soon will have fuel.. the bike will start.. Give it full choke and crank for 5-10 seconds and pause.. crank again.. pause.. it does take a bit to fill the flow bowls if they are dry. If it starts to catch, stop and let off the choke a few clicks and crank again..
I still have plenty of hill to try bump starting her down, the problem is getting her back up if it doesn't work, heh.
The fuel line is properly routed, had read about that. Diagram showing it is still on the bike, too. Sounds like putting it all back together is just a matter of practice.
Petcock is definitely leaky. Means carbs are generally going to be flooded anytime I park. Short term solution for dealing with that?
You observe fuel leaking out of the petcock with the tank off?
If that is correct you'll need to drain the tank, remove the petcock and disassemble it. There are four screws on the side of it that hold the diaphragm, spring and plunger. Carefully take it apart and you'll find an o-ring on the end of the plunger.
Take it off and go to your local hardware store and look through their selection of o-rings. You should be able to find a replacement. Ace Hardware usually has a good selection of such things.
Someone here will remember the exact size of the o-ring..
This is the only way to fix the petcock, short of buying a new one.
I don't have much faith in petcock repair. I know too many people that try it and still have their problem. This petcock has had both its external oval o-ring and its spring replaced by the PO... and yet here we are.
Really don't want to wait for a new petcock to be shipped in, would prefer to just make it to randy in California and do it there. Is that unreasonable? As in, is this going to make starting it after parking every time difficult?
Guess I'll start looking at those prices and shipping times... Anyone have a spare lying around that will get me by temporarily for cheap right now? On a tight budget.
Edit: $173!?!!!!? Why are they so expensive, and the 89 up so much cheaper?! My god! Guess I'll be looking up articles on ptcock repair after all?
And yes, it just dribbles out slowly. Its clearly visible when the tank is off.
Quote from: fintip on October 26, 2012, 06:27:03 PM
I don't have much faith in petcock repair. I know too many people that try it and still have their problem. This petcock has had both its external oval o-ring and its spring replaced by the PO... and yet here we are.
Really don't want to wait for a new petcock to be shipped in, would prefer to just make it to randy in California and do it there. Is that unreasonable? As in, is this going to make starting it after parking every time difficult?
Guess I'll start looking at those prices and shipping times... Anyone have a spare lying around that will get me by temporarily for cheap right now? On a tight budget.
Edit: $173!?!!!!? Why are they so expensive, and the 89 up so much cheaper?! My god! Guess I'll be looking up articles on ptcock repair after all?
And yes, it just dribbles out slowly. Its clearly visible when the tank is off.
You can have my original 86 petcock, it does not leak fuel but the opposite, it has a vacuum leak preventing fuel flow at low vacuum conditions. Might have enough parts between the two to get you to Randy's safely. I upgraded to an 84/85 petcock. Still vacuum controlled but in place of the electric quasi reserve it has a control valve with Prime position. Worked like a charm for the 400+ miles in Napa.
I think I might be forced to take you up on that monkey. Only other option I can think of is removing the tank and disconnecting the fuel line for all stops over 5 minutes...
Or an inline tap from a plumbing supplies shop,, , a small one will a ball valve would shut off the flow
Quote from: fintip on October 26, 2012, 08:00:01 PM
I think I might be forced to take you up on that monkey. Only other option I can think of is removing the tank and disconnecting the fuel line for all stops over 5 minutes...
You could leave the Left side panel off and get a hemostat like devise to clamp off the fuel line when you stop. If your seats are good then short stops should not be an issue, but it sounds like you have issues. Let me know if you need /want it.... And if you swing south enough we can meet up. North Glendale area of CA. I remember my adventure days, Kookaloo mate....
What does it look like in the gas tank.
What petcock do you have.
I just replaced the tank on my 90.Petcock was different so used my old one.Safety wired it at the same time so i didnt have a fire issue.Carb parts might add up you can buy good used sets for about $200 and new sets for $400.Personally I would have brought a good set with me,pulled the old set and installed the new ones.
Are you sure that your leaking at the petcock and not at the fuel fittings or breathers.
Where could I find a set of hemostats? Would autozone carry them? That's a pretty good idea. Only problem is what to do with the side panel when traveling. I guess I can just leave it on and deal with removing it everytime--easier than removing the hoses every time by a long shot.
Have people here had much success replacing the o ring inside the petcock? I suppose that's worth a try, now that I see how much these petcocks cost...
Gas tank looks quite clean inside. I am sure the petcock itself is leaking, as I removed it and brought it to a gas station, filled it up, and brought it back. Petcock was dribbling on me as I was putting it back.
You may be able to find some hemostats at a drug store. Also try Radio Shack, hemo's are often used as a tool in electronic repairs.
Fred
Quote from: fintip on October 26, 2012, 08:28:28 PM
Where could I find a set of hemostats? Would autozone carry them? That's a pretty good idea. Only problem is what to do with the side panel when traveling. I guess I can just leave it on and deal with removing it everytime--easier than removing the hoses every time by a long shot.
Have people here had much success replacing the o ring inside the petcock? I suppose that's worth a try, now that I see how much these petcocks cost...
Gas tank looks quite clean inside. I am sure the petcock itself is leaking, as I removed it and brought it to a gas station, filled it up, and brought it back. Petcock was dribbling on me as I was putting it back.
Like needle nose pliers that lock closed:
http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=hemostat&id=D76BB421CABD9BEF82A53F364AB9F8A3430F93DF&FORM=IQFRBA (http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=hemostat&id=D76BB421CABD9BEF82A53F364AB9F8A3430F93DF&FORM=IQFRBA)
Petcock will drip a little whille you move the tank about.It drips though the outlet.Not a problem.If it leaks its coming out between the tank and the petcock (oring) or petcock is coming apart and its leaking from the body.
It was definitely dripping too much; also, I hadn't brought it up, but the PO had put 2.5 gallons 2 weeks ago, and more than half of that was gone when I arrived.
What about putting one of these in?
http://www.amazon.com/Briggs-Stratton-698183-Shut-Off-Selected/dp/B0038U3JKM/ref=pd_sim_auto_2 (http://www.amazon.com/Briggs-Stratton-698183-Shut-Off-Selected/dp/B0038U3JKM/ref=pd_sim_auto_2)
Quote from: fintip on October 26, 2012, 09:19:08 PM
It was definitely dripping too much; also, I hadn't brought it up, but the PO had put 2.5 gallons 2 weeks ago, and more than half of that was gone when I arrived.
What about putting one of these in?
http://www.amazon.com/Briggs-Stratton-698183-Shut-Off-Selected/dp/B0038U3JKM/ref=pd_sim_auto_2 (http://www.amazon.com/Briggs-Stratton-698183-Shut-Off-Selected/dp/B0038U3JKM/ref=pd_sim_auto_2)
Yep, get clever enough and you can shut the fuel off with the side panel on.
Does anyone know what size the fuel hose is? 5/16"? 1/2"? About to order one.
If its the petcock I think it is it might be seperating.Can you pull the outlet out of the body.My petcock on my 90 was coming apart so I pressed it back together and safety wired it.
I have the petcock from the tank I just bought I couldnt use it as it had no vacume nipple on it.Guessing its for a fuel pump which I dont have previous owner changed a few things.
Fuel hose is different size for early and later carbs and petcocks.
I replaced the o-ring inside the petcock on my 87 just after I bought it. That was 11+ years ago. It's been trouble free since.
One other thing to look for is a slightly stiffer spring for the plunger, or stretch the one in there a little. Adding a little more pressure helps seal the o-ring when you shut the engine off.
You won't find an exact length spring so find one that feels good and cut it to the correct length.
You say the po replaced the o-ring that seals the petcock to the tank. There is a rather small o-ring inside the petcock. A small crack in it will cause fuel to dribble out when its not supposed to. that is the o-ring causing you problems.
Definitely going to try the o-ring. Is there a guide for the procedure in the documents section?
By the way, I'd be doing less asking and more searching, but I have to do everything from my tablet now since my laptop was inside my friend's car when it was stolen a couple weeks ago in Austin, so it's kind of hard to handle multi-tab searches like I'm used to doing.
Also: going to order the on-off valve just in case, since I can have it here Monday for $5 total, as a backup. Somehow, fuel hose size is ridiculously difficult to research? Even on rpm's website I couldn't find my answer... I am beginning to assume its 3/8" for the 87's and 5/16" for the 88/89 and onwards, but I can't confirm. Can't find it in the clymers or owners manual either.
Did I mention this bike still has the factory key and the factory owner's manual? And that I'm the 4th owner? That it's always been garage kept? I can't wait to ride this bike.
Hey fin, , where you up to mate, , got that wee bea :flag_of_truce:sty making vroom vroom noises yet, , or has the building manager turned you into a fincicle (popcorn),, I got the right side seat latch out, your in luck , two screws on the cover and the little handle lifts out, , can send just that part if you need it, as I think the key went with the fuel cap a few years ago , , just pm me your addy for Austin , , don't mess about with postage, just swap me whatever you want for what you think its worth, , red power rangers are an accepted currency :lol:
The fuel hose for gravity feed FJ is 10 mm or 0.394 inches, fat for 3/8 (0.38) and narrow for 1/2 (0.50). Additional info 7/16 is (0.44).
Awesome. So I've come up with four or five options.
First off, replacing the o ring in the petcock. I've gone and studied petcocks a little more now, so I have a better understanding of what I'm dealing with. The o ring in question--are we talking about the o ring on the plunger? That's what I should try replacing?
Second, and what I will be doing together with the above, is a couple of tips mentioned in this video to refurbish a leaking petcock without any spare parts: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5DqvB_5gP20&feature=youtube_gdata_player (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5DqvB_5gP20&feature=youtube_gdata_player)
Third option, if those fail me, is a set of hemostats. My host here has one in his electronics tool kit, and I'd probably buy one for my own use.
Fourth is the manual inline on-off switch for the fuel line. (Thank you so much for the hose size information fjmonkey, I had hit a dad end on that one.)
Fifth, and maybe skipping three and four, my host here is a friend who is a programmer for amazon and has a hobby of hacking electronic things together. He'd like to try installing, basically, a solenoid operated on/off inline fuel switch after the petcock that would be hooked up to the battery and allow fuel when the bike is on and stop fuel when the bike is off.
So if the petcock repair isn't enough on its own, I may have a custom option. In the meantime I'd have hemostats as a temporary option. If my friend flakes out, then I'd just install a manual inline on/off for the time being.
Too rainy today to work on the bike, so doing some fun stuff instead. Like picking up a lightly used heated jacket off craigslist. :)
Yes you want to replace the o-ring on the plunger. Look back at my previous posts. I wrote how to take the petcock apart. It's very easy. Just be mindful not to damage the diaphragm inside.
Take it apart, remove the o-ring on the plunger..go to a hardware store and find a replacement. Put everything back together and you'll be good to go.
Way too much noise going on in this now, I don't understand what the main problem is that you're trying to fix.
Is fuel leaking DIRECTLY from the PETCOCK?
Or, is the petcock not shitting off and fuel is STILL leaking from the CARBS?
Leaking from the petcock is bad. Replacing the plunger o-ring won't fix that, you'll need a new petcock.
If it's leaking from the carbs, that's a CARB PROBLEM. Fix that first!
DavidR.
Yes, leaking from the petcock, and then the carbs overflow (I presume) as well.
Why won't replacing the o ring fix that? What else would replacing the o ring do? I mean, petcocks can be refurbished, so I don't understand why you'd say that? Miscommunication of some sort?
And yes, directly from the petcock spigot. Instead of cutting off the fuel flow when no vacuum is present, it cuts the flow down to a drip.
As far as the carb problem, I just need to get it started now; if I can jut get it running, then I can work on it in a lot happier conditions in California.
Got a 5 gal gas can to empty my now-full tank into, next step is removing the petcock, disassembling, and taking a trip to the hardware store.
the float needle valves are quite capable of stopping the fuel flow even if it was more than just dripping from the petcock.
that is the problem you should be addressing first IMO..... you can always fix the petcock after you get the bike home.
good luck
KOokaloo!
I'd the bike has not been all jacked up and is a nice piece, then why would you start hacking up the fuel supply system? If the rebuilding of the petcock doesn't work, the best way to repair it is by replacing the petcock with the proper parts
That original petcock is 20+ years old, it has exceeded its usability and if you get another 20 years out of the new petcock the price is less than 10 bucks a year.
Then you will never have to worry about it being a non-stock replacement that might fail, or worse fail & burn the bike to the ground because it wasn't "quite right".
It like the old saying...
There is never enough time to do it right the first time, but there is always enough time to do it a second time...
Randy - RPM
Absolutely randy. Problem is just the size of my budget. I have to get home and start working again before I can do things right. I'm going to be making it back to Austin on less than a thousand dollars, can't afford to spend more than 20% of my budget on the petcock.
The change to the fuel system would be completely reversible, under my friends's plan. But that point about the float needles is right on. But I'd rather not take the carbs apart until I find a garage, if I can avoid it.
I know people tend to just put things off until 'later', but that's not exactly the same as my situation. Also, all of my solutions were non destructive and non invasive. (I had planned on adding a small amount of extra fuel line, not cutting the existing line.)
While I have it off you can bet I'll be safety wiring the petcock...
:hi: Fix the gas leak, get her fired up, oil/filter change, full tank of premium gas with a can of carb cleaner thrown in and well mixed, check the 'safety' things...brakes, steering, lights, etc, etc and then find the quickest way home...Highways not the byways...that way, your easier to locate should anything go south on your new ride... :shout: :bye2:
Just my 2 cents worth buddy... :drinks:
John.
Success! Mwahahahaha!
Replacing the o ring and stretching out the spring a tad didn't really help. But then I placed a small rubber washer behind the spring, effectively increasing the sprung tension. And that seemed to work pretty well. Put it all back together (tank wasn't so bad to put on from the left side, that was my problem before, trying to hook up stuff from the right side).
And I bought a long screwdriver, so I drained and banged on the center two carbs as well before this.
Get out my screwdriver. Reveal the solenoid posts. Pull the choke knob out. Sparks. Starter motor spins. A bit of stumbling. Spins some more.
Bowls are filling up, I tell myself.
Cranking.
I decide to situate myself so that I can twist the throttle and help out a stumble.
Cranking some more.
Stumbling, stumbling, stumbling... VROOOOOOM!
She's alive! Idling way too high on full choke. Try lowering it so it idles a bit more evenly. Dies. Awwww.
Give it another go. Starts again! Leave the choke on this time. Pop the seat on, and drive up and down the street, really short, but... it runs! Drive it up to outside my friend's apartment and call out to him. He doesn't hear me, so I kill it and get him. Bring him down. Think of going for a ride. This time I start it, but can't get it to idle, even high, so I decide it's a bad idea. Won't behave below 3k rpm's. So I just roll it back for now and decide I need to fix the electrical problem (starter button not starting) before I go, because with my current set up, I have to take the seat off to start off, and if I can't get it to idle, I can't then put the seat back on before it dies.
While this is bad, if the starter button works, it's a usable functioning bike, though the idle passages/jets obviously REALLY need to be cleaned.
BUT SHE RUNS! :D :D :D
:good2: EXCELLENT! First hurdle is cleared. Congrats.
Good Deal..... It is alive....... :good2:
That's good news. On mine and I think most, it is better to hold the throttle open a good amount when starting it. I started mine this morning and with full choke it idles at 2000 rpm and it needs to warm up before I pull the choke off. When warm it purrs at 1000 RPM. It sounds like you need to clean up the carbs when you get a chance. I understand your dilemma and trying to get it going down the road. It might run better after a tank or two of fuel. These bikes do not like to sit not used for very long. seems the more you run them the better they get.
I would take to most direct route to the South due to the weather. If it were me I would go as far South as the LA area then cut East to the Phoenix area and press on from there. IF you cut over to the Las Vegas area that's OK to, BUT from there go South before you cut East. IF you head East from Las Vegas you will have to endure colder weather though Flagstaff (6910 foot elevation). In it will stay cooler all through the mid New Mexico area. It's higher in elevation than most think.
The seasons are changing. Basically I would get South as rapidly as possable. I-5 is about the only logical choice as much as I don't like it. The temps will be pretty constant (I didn't say good) :) from Seattle to as far South as the Eugene area then it will cool off until you get the Redding, Calif area. (a bump in elevation there) at Redding the weather should start to improve as far as temps go. This time of the year there is rain and even snow. Shasta Calif once had a ski resort......
That comes from a lot of years of experience running around the area this time of year (we are snowbirds). If you are struggling with the bike you might try to make it to where RPM is located (?) in Calif..
I am glad it is just a starter switch problem. Easy to "rig as required" to get you on the road. Do a good safety check before you leave. Is the chain adjusted and lubed etc. ? Wish I was there to give you a hand.
its not that hard to remove the float bowls... clear the varnish from the jets and make sure the floats are moving properly.
its going to have to be done since fixing the petcock is not going to stop the gas from running out on the ground when the bike is running.
I bet even money the pilot jets are plugged completely and no amount of fuel/fuel treatment running thru the carbs is going to clear them.... i've found a single brass bristle from a grill brush is usually required to poke thru the varnish.... once the fuel can actually flow thru the jets the carb cleaner can actually do its job.
same "tool" works great for all the little holes on the emulsion tubes :good2:
Kookaloo!
No, if pulling the carbs off were more direct, I'd clean them up in a heart beat. The problem is partially disassembling the bike on the side of the street in a neighborhood in very uptight Seattle. On the xj, pulling the carbs was actually pretty easy; I'm a little reluctant to remove some bolts from the frame and completely undo the air box all rushing to finish and in put it back together before it rains again. (Was rushing today to do everything since it was finally clear today. Just after I got it running it started drizzling again, and everything is soaked now again.)
Still, I brought my metal bristle brush with me, and if the float needles keeps being an huge problem, or the bike remains really difficult after a tank of gas or two, I may just break down and do it where ever I am and just sit tight and order float needles. Just trying to see if I can get away with it until I'm somewhere I can breathe.
Good to know about the choke and idle, maybe it isn't so odd after all. I have very little cold weather motorcycle experience, so I have a lot to learn about the choke--i almost never needed it on my xj.
I haven't had a chained bike in years, so I do need to remember to check it out. It definitely isn't lubed after sitting (in a garage, mind you) for a year, though the chain does only have about 10k miles on it. Need to do an oil change as well. The brakes were well maintained while the guy had it, looks like the brake lines were replaced at one point not long ago and I got pretty decent responsiveness out of the clutch and brakes, so I think I'll put flushing those off until I get back to Austin or maybe California.
Battery is new and was trickle charged before ever being used, so it's doing well, will be trickle charging it again tonight after its hard day of service today.
Also using hemostats on the fuel line just in case. Man this thing has a meaty fuel line! Huge! I need bigger hemostats!
And mixed in with almost a full tank of gas I put in most of a liter of marvel mystery oil. I have good luck with it in the past, and it certainly can't hurt. Never can be certain it works, but I figure after sitting for a year the bike could use all the help it can get.
What's the quick and dirty answer to the oil question? Just, what do most people use? 20/50 motorcycle dinosaur?
Also, I forgot to mention, after running the bike, I could clearly see the oil light come on when I would press the starter button (as it should) so I know that the starter button contact is good.
So help me out here; kickstand is possible, but I can visibly see that one and it looks fine, but I can still check it--but even if its bad, should that stop the bike from statting when it is in neutral? Same thing with the clutch safety switch. What other safety switches are there to check?
Or, more concisely: what is the troubleshooting procedure (how exactly with a test light are these switches checked) and order of operations (what do I test in what order) for my problem? Right after typing this up I'll be burying my nose in clymers and trying to go over this part of the schematic, but I'm sure you guys will give me better results faster than what I'll find. Pointing me to useful threads is much appreciated, happy to read. :)
And as for route, though, I have to stop in Portland to help a friend, and I really want to drive up to Canada for a day just to say I've been there. After Portland, I was planning on rushing via hwy 1 and then crossing over hwy 6 to get to about redding to see a friend that lives there. Then doing hwy 5 for a while and then making my way back to hwy 1 until about San Fran, and then cutting east (just like you recommend I not do, heh) to see death valley and Las Vegas.
Is my north route unreasonable? The coast, I.e. hwy 1, will be lower elevation and thus warmer, right?
Good to know that my southern route has an elevation problem, though, I'll rethink that. I would still like to make it to the grand canyon, though.
congrats on the start. :yahoo:
as mentioned the normal procedure to start a 86 fj is as follows :
1-pull choke all the way out.
2-turn key to on position
3-pull clutch lever in
4-push start button and do not turn the throttle
5-engine will start and rpm's will reach up to 3500 after a few seconds.
6-push choke back in a little bit till rpm's decrease to 2000-2500
7-wait to ride until choke can be pushed all the way in and engine idles at 1200 rpm
8-aflter riding and you wish to re-start your fj , you will not need to pull the choke ,just push the start button with a little throttle.
If your fj will not do this procedure do not travel anywhere until it will. :negative:
now as to your starting problem , start at the relay and see if it is getting power when you push the button.
Use your troublelight and check power in -power out thru your switches that feed the relay .
Many have told you to remove the start button and clean the contacts and do the same with the run switch .
STOP SCREWING AROUND AND DO IT.
it is a maintenance issue anyway.
good luck.
Well. Found the kickstand switch and followed it up to its connector on the left side, disconnected it, and put a jumper wire between the two prongs on the engine side. Didn't help. Opened clymers and learned about the clutch switch. Disconnected the two cables from it and ran a jumper from those as well. Still just getting oil level lights when I hit the starter button.
What's next?
Anyways, just to make sure everything was still fine, I put the screwdriver across the solenoid. Bike immediately idles, without choke or throttle. Wow! I pull the choke on. I put it back together and let it idle there while I put my tools in my pockets. Drive up outside his apartment and decide to take the bike to the nearest highway and just get some open throttle in the bike to help it out.
Get my riding gear, suit up, start the bike, get it idling on choke for a while, put the seat back on. Take off.
But there's all these stop signs. And someone stops me trying to back out of their parking space and takes forever. And then they drive like 5 mph. And so about 7 blocks down, th e bike dies, having trouble in the low rpm's, Andi can't gt it to start again. Battery getting on the weaker side. Try push starting it, but its a pretty heavy bike and not exactly in a good state of tune. Find legal parking, push it there, remove the tank to check my petcock fix, and find that it was even better than I'd thought--no leaking when the tank is full, and just a little suction gets it pouring. Hook everything back up, disconnect and remove the battery and trudge uphill back home.
Battery is charging now. Now I just need a definite electrical troubleshooting procedure. Shame to be inside wasting this rare decent weather, it's somewhat clear right now and it is so nice... :(
Also, I now have a garage in Portland, so if I just get there, I am in a place to really break down the carbs... though my little test ride today makes me think I may not be able to make it without that. We'll see...
Could someone give me the idiot proof procedure for checking my 'relay' and tell me exactly where it is? Clymer's isn't being much help here either... I've just never had relay problems before, and can't figure out where the relay is physically located and what I should do with it. I just know the theory behind its operation.
The "solenoid" you're shorting across is really a RELAY. We've had this discussion way too many times.
A few more issues.
If you're going to try to "run the carbs clean" (which I will guarantee won't work, I've failed at it in the past with carbs that only sat a few weeks), you're going to have to use something better than MMO. Try a can of Seafoam, or Techron, or Startron(?).
The tank may not be venting. That's the usual suspect when the bike acts like it runs out of fuel in a few miles. Then sits for a while and starts back up. Try to flush some carb cleaner or WD-40 through the tank vent.
DavidR.
Quote from: SlowOldGuy on October 29, 2012, 05:23:13 PM
The "solenoid" you're shorting across is really a RELAY. We've had this discussion way too many times.
The tank may not be venting. That's the usual suspect when the bike acts like it runs out of fuel in a few miles. Then sits for a while and starts back up. Try to flush some carb cleaner or WD-40 through the tank vent.
DavidR.
If you have two keys then put one in the fuel cap, if it starts to act fuel starved then crack the cap open. It that fixes it you will need to clean out the cap and possibly perform the Flapectomy. Removal of two orange colored, silicone, round shape, reed valves. This is where the singing comes from as vapor is pulled into or out of the tank. And if you disassemble the cap, do so in a clean bucket. That tiny bearing shoots out, gets lost and the key flap will not stay up up anymore. A minor annoyance.
I hear that the Chevron products really help carbs that are a little clogged. When my bike sat for more than 2 years I had to pull the bowls and carefully clean out the idle jets.
Kyle, the sequence you describe of it cutting out and then not restarting after a few blocks is consistent with forgetting to push the choke in, the blocked tank be vent generally takes a bit longer than that.
Also, have you got the kill switch in the right position?
Motorbikes have short rubber manifolds and do not need choke for very long, unlike a car.
Noel
I did leave the choke halfway on. I will make sure to do a careful warm up procedure next time to eliminate that s a possibility. If the kill switch wasn't in the right position, the bike wouldn't have been running at all, and I did use it today to shut the bike off just to make sure it works, so I'm confident that it was in then right position. I've made that mistake enough times to check that when a bike won't start! I did try and start it once with the keys still hanging out of the seat lock, though. Realized that before too long, ha.)
Re: possible venting problems, odd that even a tank with two vent hoses on both top and bottom can still suffer from venting problems. I don't have two keys, but I'll get something to hold it open next time to eliminate another option.
Concerning the starter button, though, does anyone have any other suggestions as to what could cause this if not the kickstand or clutch switch? Or just some higher-up-the-chain way to bypass ALL safety circuits?
Quote from: fintip on October 29, 2012, 08:39:10 PM
I did leave the choke halfway on. I will make sure to do a careful warm up procedure next time to eliminate that s a possibility. If the kill switch wasn't in the right position, the bike wouldn't have been running at all, and I did use it today to shut the bike off just to make sure it works, so I'm confident that it was in then right position. I've made that mistake enough times to check that when a bike won't start! I did try and start it once with the keys still hanging out of the seat lock, though. Realized that before too long, ha.)
Re: possible venting problems, odd that even a tank with two vent hoses on both top and bottom can still suffer from venting problems. I don't have two keys, but I'll get something to hold it open next time to eliminate another option.
Concerning the starter button, though, does anyone have any other suggestions as to what could cause this if not the kickstand or clutch switch? Or just some higher-up-the-chain way to bypass ALL safety circuits?
Can you read a schematic? The starter gets its voltage from the Starter relay/solenoid (46). It is energized when ground is provided through relay unit (42) when energized
AND the start switch (43) is pressed. (42) is energized when 12 volts are provided through the main switch (4), ignition fuse (5), and engine stop switch (6) AND ground is provided through the side stand switch (29). There's more to it with the oil light on etc... but this is how it is started. Grounding the Black/yellow wire from relay unit 42 should bypass all the safety stuff. Hopefully you can read this diagram... if not there's another pic here: http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=6477.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=6477.0)
(http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb37/campsimonette/fjschematic.jpg)
How is yous adventure ride so far ?.
When you had the float bowls off did you make sure that they were not cloged.If the tube or plug in the bottom of it are cloged bike will be hard to start.Carbs need a thourough going through so you can comfortably ride her without fear of stoping and not starting again.My 1st 7 hour ride to and 7 hour ride home was done with a bad diaphram I didnt know because i had not gone through the carbs yet.Ride was fine till I had to stop.If I didnt start the bike up right away I had issues and drained the battery.
I have been looking at a couple of possible adventure rides but i dont have the gear for a long cold ride so I would use a different aproach.Plan would be to drive to destination and rent a enclosed trailer put bike in trailer and tow it home.I am looking at a project bike 5 1/2 hours away right now it would cost me $40 to drive there and $100 for a enclosed 4x8 trailer which I can drop of at home.Figure $60 for gas coming back because of the trailer.Should be a cost of $200 to get her home if i buy her.
I would rather ride back but weather will suck and it would cost me mose $$.I would need to drive out and have someone come with to drive my car back so gas for car and bike.
Priced a flight and it was min $250.So not doing that.
We will se if I go in a few days.
Back to you is there anyway you can borrow a set of carbs for the ride home ?
Scott.......
Quote from: Flying Scotsman on October 29, 2012, 10:50:59 PM
is there anyway you can borrow a set of carbs for the ride home?
Monkey's got those too...
Frank
Dadsfj, that was exactly what I needed, thank you. I would have been hard pressed to make it through that schematic alone, but with your walkthrough it all makes a lot of sense. Grounding out the yellow black wire will enable the starter button to still function, then? And if the starter button still won't get the crank to start turning, should I assume a short between it and the relay unit?
What I am left asking is: where is the relay unit? Is this the box with all the wires I see under the right side of the fairing up front? Do I need to remove the fairing to get to it? What is the best way to ground out the wire in a non-destructive way?
Scotsman, haven't removed the bowls yet. As for your ride--what about homemade gear and a bus ride out to the bike? Either way, best of luck. :)
As for borrowing a set of carbs, that'd almost feel like cheating, but if someone offered, I would be a fool to turn it down. Not exactly something I would feel comfortable requesting though. Hopefully I can just limp to Portland and then tear the carbs down there--portland is less than 3 hours away, so if the bike will just run fair on the highway, it's not such a crazy plan.
As for stopping and drained battery, that is my fear. It's what happened today. On the other hand, my battery was already weak because I ended up being unable to trickle charger last night. So a fully charged battery, combined with the possible solution of venting the tank more effectively, might be enough to allow me to drive safely.
Trickle charging the battery now... missing the battery side wire, so I am using speaker wire (which is a pretty heavy gauge, and I only have 750mA of current). Gets the job done. I had gotten the battery down to 11.8 volts today... no wonder it wouldn't start.its been going for hours and it's still not to 80%.
reckless. the whole enterprise. Beautifully reckless.
I can loan you my stock carbs if you really need them.
Nice monkey man.
Do you have a spare set of stock carbs ?
I currently have a loaner set from Flynt and my set are on the bench waiting for me to get the parts to rebuild them. They are bone stock and as long as I have had them, 17+ years, have not been rebuilt. They work but need to be set up for My UNIs and Suppertrapp pipes.
:good:I thought you might have got some flatsides or smoothbore carbs :yahoo:
Quote from: Flying Scotsman on October 30, 2012, 10:23:39 AM
:good:I thought you might have got some flatsides or smoothbore carbs :yahoo:
No silly, not till I punch it out to 1388, lighten the crank, then some performance carbs. Oh, and an athletic supporter till I learn how not to chop the throttle and crush my jewels.
Time to sneak the engine into the shop and open up the cases and cylinders for oversize sleeves and some head work.Get that trans fixed whille your in there.
Any progress with the bike ?
I might be buying one in a couple of days.1984 FJ1100.Going to get some pics of the inside of the tank later.Bike needs work does not run,gas tank condition might be a deal breaker we wll see.I do have a tank I just replaced from my 1990 but its got some dents in it so it would only be used if the tank was rusty and I bought the bike extra cheap.I have 2 fjs already dont know why I want a 3rd.Might fix it and sell it or sell the 1990 might just keep them all who knows.
:dash1: :dash1: :dash1:
Any progress with the bike I know the battery was charging ?.
Thanks monkey, I really appreciate that. I'm going to see if I can get the bike on the highway just once to know if I have a shot of making it to Portland. If I can't get her to run on the highway, or can't seem to get them running right in Portland, I may give you a shout.
As for progress, its rainy and foggy today. Going to just make it a parts day, buy some spark plugs and oil (20/50 Dino oil, motorcycle specific, unless anyone has an objection?). How much oil should I get? Owner's manual lists 4.2 L total oil amount, but says 3.0 L for 'periodic oil change'. What am I supposed to make of that? 1.2 L stuck in the oil cooler and gallery?
Battery is STILL charging, has been all yesterday evening and night and this morning. Now at 14.53 volts, tender still shows it as being less than 80% charged. I keep checking to make sure it isn't heating up, and it isn't. Good thing I trickle charged it to full after buying it before using it. AGM battery if anyone was wondering.
Edit: less than a minute after I typed that, battery hit 80%.
Jumper cables would be nice to bring with.
I would at least open up the carbs clean some jets and check the diaphrams for holes.
Buy oil of your choice in a 5 quart jug and fill to line.
Fintip,
(sorry, I don't recall if your name has ever been mentioned)
It seems like I recall seeing somewhere in this thread you were going to try and get to my shop at some point whether traveling through or needing help with repairs.
If that is your plan, email me so I can give you my schedule of when I am going to be here at the shop. I go back to work on Thursday through Monday morning and the next week I have several things going on that are going to keep me out of town during the day time hours until 11/8.
Randy - RPM
randy@rpmracingca.com
Quote from: fintip on October 30, 2012, 01:31:25 PM
Battery is STILL charging, has been all yesterday evening and night and this morning. Now at 14.53 volts, tender still shows it as being less than 80% charged. I keep checking to make sure it isn't heating up, and it isn't. Good thing I trickle charged it to full after buying it before using it. AGM battery if anyone was wondering.
Edit: less than a minute after I typed that, battery hit 80%.
What kind of charger/charge rate are you using on that AGM battery? :scratch_one-s_head:
I had 2 agm battery's both Decca or Deca !.
Didnt recover well after a full discharge.Ran them in my waverunner it had msd total loss at the time.Is it a brand new battery ?.
I do have jumper cables, had forgotten about that. D'oh. Haven't needed them in forever.
Randy, sorry, my name is Kyle. When I end up getting on the move and having a steady rate and know when I'm heading your way, I'll be sure to check with you. It would almost be more as a pleasure trip, as I can't really afford anything right now. Would be good just to have you look t it and hear what you think of it, though.
Using a .75 amp charger. And yes, brand new battery.
One gallon jug of oil, and use it all.
It will just be a slight bit over the top of the sight glass.
I have went with this method for the last several oil changes with no side effects.
I'm also using the RPM spin on filter, if that matters.
If you are in pretty cool weather, I'd suggest 5-40 or 10-40 to help cold starts, less drag on the starter and battery. It could help getting that sucker started before you grind the battery to death.
Leon
Quote from: fintip on October 30, 2012, 01:01:38 AM
Dadsfj, that was exactly what I needed, thank you. I would have been hard pressed to make it through that schematic alone, but with your walkthrough it all makes a lot of sense. Grounding out the yellow black wire will enable the starter button to still function, then? And if the starter button still won't get the crank to start turning, should I assume a short between it and the relay unit? More likely to be an open wire.
When things don't work, not getting power to a circuit, it's almost always an open wire, unless you're blowing fuses. Then you can suspect a short...
Quote from: FJmonkey on October 30, 2012, 10:35:11 AM
Quote from: Flying Scotsman on October 30, 2012, 10:23:39 AM
:good:I thought you might have got some flatsides or smoothbore carbs :yahoo:
No silly, not till I punch it out to 1388, lighten the crank, then some performance carbs. Oh, and an athletic supporter till I learn how not to chop the throttle and crush my jewels.
A cup would probably work better.... :shout:
Quote from: 1tinindian on October 30, 2012, 08:20:20 PM
One gallon jug of oil, and use it all.
It will just be a slight bit over the top of the sight glass.
I have went with this method for the last several oil changes with no side effects.
I'm also using the RPM spin on filter, if that matters.
If you are in pretty cool weather, I'd suggest 5-40 or 10-40 to help cold starts, less drag on the starter and battery. It could help getting that sucker started before you grind the battery to death.
Leon
I run 10W40 all year round, even in the Tucson summer heat... 105+. I prefer it to a 15 or 20W50. With modern oil, the W50 is too thick, doesn't flow as well, I feel. A lot of reading tells me the same thing.
Quote from: RichBaker on October 30, 2012, 08:23:14 PM
A cup would probably work better.... :shout:
That was the original thought, perhaps I chose the wrong words. I meant needing both the support and armor known as the "Cup". No harm has come from this error and actual FJ-Monkey riders are currently free from any injury implied. This has been a public service announcement to....Well, protect what can be protected.... ATGATT.
Re:open wire...
Sorry, that's what I meant to say. I learned all my electronics terms from a self-taught puertorican, so some of his inaccurate terminology lives on in my subconscious and comes out when I don't catch it.
I'll try 10w40 this time, then.
Went with rotella t 15w40, gallon jug. All auto zone had was champion equivalent spark plugs, no NGK's in stock, so I went with those. Realized I don't have a gapping tool with me, though, thought I did. Maybe I can find some mechanic close by and have him loan me a tool for a minute...
Battery is fully charged.
Just waiting for this never ending rain to let up...
Thinking I'll probably back out the idle screws by a turn or so on all four carbs and see if that helps low end at all as well.
Do not use Champion spark plugs! Take them back and ask how long to get the NGK plugs. If they are unable to get them in 24 hours or less, then call around and see who has them. If you have a Cyclegear near by, they should have them.
Here's a pic of what happens to Champion plugs in a Ninja 250. Even though the FJ doesn't wind as high as the 250 you could expect a similar fate.
Ahhh.. don't like the never ending rain eh? It'll stop.. in July if we're lucky!
(http://forums.ninja250.org/uploads/115022.jpg)
Ohhhh, is this a test?
The one on the left looks okay.
The one on the right, not so good.
Did I pass?
DavidR.
champion plugs suck balls. :negative:
Thanks for the tip. I went on a research spree on spark plugs. Apparently champion used to be awesome back in the day, stories of them getting tractors going when other plugs fail and such. They also still make F1 quality plugs that are race-win worthy. But their consumer level plugs do appear to be white... stories abound of people buying 4 or 8 packs and getting 3 bad out of the box, of not passing emissions tests with champions, but passing with another brand, of misfires and poor running upon using a new set of champions, fixed by going back to previous brand.
Ordering NGK's today. My old spark plugs are still fine, just changing to help out the system, so I can wait a day for new plugs.
Rotella 15- 40 is fine. It's very close to what Yamaha recommends for oil. Spark plugs... Gap (0.031-0.035") I think. In an emergency along the road.... the edge of my licence plate sheet metal is .40 plus or minus. A sheet of computer paper folded in eighths is approx. .30. Not very scientific but hey. Improvise, adapt and overcome...... Many years ago we use to use beer can tabs (remember those?) to set point gaps in old Chevy distributors in a tight spot.
Your old plugs were probably OK to get you down the road unless they were damaged or really crudded up. Think I would hold out for the right plugs. MANY years ago I too had a plug break apart and it caused me an undue amount of grief...
Rain, welcome to Seattle :)... Seems summer up there is Aug and that's it. Less I digress into Seattle jokes.... Beautiful place when the sun comes out.
Hope you get it running better today. Sounds like you are close at least to get it on down to Portland. Maybe the sun will accidentally come out for the day.
!!!!
:D
No sun today, but this morning it was at least just ugly, cloudy, and wet, but barely raining. So I decide to bring the freshly charged battery down the hill to the bike and get her back to the top of the hill, to a quieter street next to where I am staying.
Put the battery in, pull out full choke, short the solenoid... instant start, healthy sounds.
This time I adjust the choke to get it to idle at 2.25 k or so, and let her just warm up. After a minute or two, have the bike put together and my helmet back on, and I push the choke all the way down... and she idles at 1k! For at least a few seconds! I decide not to test my luck and kept a little hand on the throttle at stop signs, but this time she drove beautifully with no problem areas or hesitations up the hill back to the street outside my friend's apartment. Parked it only because the weather is still too wet and I need to do an oil change and lube the chain before I really take her out and don't want to do that in the wet...
But depending on how the ride to Portland goes, I may just put off that carb rebuild until I get back to Austin after all.
As for messing with the relay unit, I never did get a confirmation as to where it was located. I think it's on the left side under the front fairing on 84/85 models, and right side on all others? I think? Just a little black box with wires going in and out?
Best way to ground it? Just yank it out of the back of the plug and wire it to some spot on the frame somehow perhaps? The frame is ground on this bike, right? But where would a paint free spot be?
In other words, sounds like Noel was right! Thanks Noel, your keen diagnosis there was spot on. I'm trying not to count my chickens before they hatch, but I cannot wait for tomorrow or Friday when the weather is supposed to clear up.
Sorry, you're waiting for me aren't you?
The relay 42 is under the fairing :(. I don't know which component to suspect, but with the wiring diagram you should be able to test voltages at certain points to narrow it down.
(http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb37/campsimonette/relayphoto.jpg)
Troubleshooting chart from the Yamaha Service Manual:
(http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb37/campsimonette/photo1.jpg)
(http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb37/campsimonette/photo2.jpg)
(http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb37/campsimonette/photo3.jpg)
Quote from: Mark Olson on October 31, 2012, 12:47:25 PM
champion plugs suck balls. :negative:
This is truth!
KOokaloo! (with NGK)
I would begin to suspect that something is not right with the Starter Cutoff Relay (#42 in the Electrical Listing or #5 and 6 in the starting schematic).
Why don't you just install a temporary switch across the Main Starter Relay (what you're calling the Solenoid) and use that to activate the starter relay rather than shorting across it? Are you currently starting it by shorting the 2 large red wires together?
Just make sure you install it on the relay coil leads, do not run the starter line driectly from the battery through a switch (it will burn up).
This will also tell you if the Main Relay is working properly.
DavidR.
http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Starter_solenoid (http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Starter_solenoid)
I suppose that happens, that the relay unit itself goes bad. Interesting.
To start the bike, I am putting a screwdriver across the two main posts on the starter solenoid (or relay, whichever you prefer...), which is the main input and output of the solenoid. (Red wire goes in, don't remember what color goes out but I'd assume it's also red since it s also positive current).
I don't understand exactly what kind of switch you have in mind (just, like, a toggle switch?), but if I still have to take off the seat, what's the difference? I don't mind shorting them out with a screwdriver, but I tire of having to pull the seat off every time I want to start the bike.
Or maybe I misunderstand you? Also, the incompetent mechanic who last took 1 grand from the PO and failed to fix the electrical problem on the bike replaced the starter motor and solenoid with brand new parts, so the solenoid should be good.
John, you're a saint. Thanks for all of that, super useful. Yamaha shop manual definitely outdoes the clymers on this one...
David, thanks so much for taking the time to weigh in on this.
Also, returned the champions. I heard I'd have a better chance of finding the NGK's in stock at an O'Riley's, and since my spark plugs are currently fine, I'll just pick some up elsewhere down the road.
50% chance of rain tomorrow, 20% day after that, 50% day after that! Great odds, as most days here get 100%. Weekend says 0% but foggy Saturday and Sunday. Currently planning to leave for Portland on Friday or Saturday, and top by and hear what Mr. Bean has to say about the bike if he's available. He had generously offered to help with carb stuff when I was in town, hopefully I can forestall that for now and make my way down south ASAP.
Kyle
"John, you're a saint. Thanks for all of that, super useful." - Kyle, I admire your spirit and want you to succeed. :i_am_so_happy: This is great stuff you are doing.
I know you can make it.
I just bought a 84 FJ100 a few min ago :good:
It has not run for 5+ years.
I am bumed that I cant ride it back to Chicago from Iowa.
Going to leave for Tenn to visit family as soon as I get back from Iowa.
As far as a switch you car run wires from the starter relay out from under the seat and have the switch external just to get you back home. Dont forget to turn it off after starting the bike.
As I said early in this story, my 84 has a problem with the wires leading into the cut off relay 41-71r behind the fairing ,, until I do the wiring I've fitted a small momentary switch next to the seat just for those times when the switch dousnt respond, , :good2:
Kyle,
On the schematic diagram it shows the main relay (#11) getting "coil" (activation) power by tapping off of the main lead from the battery. So there should be power getting to the relay.
One of two things may not be happening. The Cut-off relay may not be letting the main relay coil power rgo to ground. The starter switch is the ground path for the main relay. But it will only work if the Cut-Off relay is working. The other thing is the starter switch may not be grounding (broken wire).
What I propose is getting on the ground side of the main relay and installing a switch to provide a ground path for the main relay. Essentially this will move the starter switch in front of the cut-off relay and eliminate that relay from the circuit. This is all temporary and can be fixed when you get home.
You can remote a simple toggle or momentary contact switch for this function. Put the switch anywhere that's convenient, it will work as your new starter switch. If that fails to make the starter turn over, then the main relay/solenoid is bad.
Look for a bullet connector with a Blue with White Stripe wire. It should be coming off the bottom of the main relay and looping up by the frame just behind the battery. That is the wire you want to either ground or attach a switch to and run it to the negative battery lead.
DavidR.
Glad to hear you got it up and running :))). You can set the idle up a bit if you feel more comfortable for a while. At 1000 RPM you are at or close to spec's.. Just for information only, standing on the right side (throttle side) take a flashlight and peek under the front bottom of the carbs, in the middle you should see a notched adjustment wheel. That's the idle adjustment... I usually use a long screw driver to push the wheel around to adjust the idle as it gets kinda hot for the hands and the space is small. In a pinch a small stick would do. Improvise,Adapt and overcome.
The link below is a fleebay site showing a carb set for sale. Check out the second photo down and you will see the round notched idle adjustment wheel so you know what to look for.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-FJ1200-89-91-Carbs-Carburetors-/400320992580?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d34fd9544&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-FJ1200-89-91-Carbs-Carburetors-/400320992580?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d34fd9544&vxp=mtr)
I had already seen it and hoped I was wrong in assuming that was it. Alas. That's quite a pain to access, haha. Was planning on doing it soon. Clockwise pushes the idle up, correct?
And as a somewhat embarrassing treat, here's the video I was filming as I got her running for the first time. Warning: has not been edited, kind of longish. But features the bike's first start-up and brief ride, as well as some maniacal laughter! haha.
http://youtu.be/ey8FPwUpJzI (http://youtu.be/ey8FPwUpJzI)
Should be up in a minute or two.
Also, some more pictures of me trying to short the safety switches: (http://img832.imageshack.us/img832/9516/pa290414.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/832/pa290414.jpg/)
Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us)
(http://img580.imageshack.us/img580/5803/pa290413.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/580/pa290413.jpg/)
Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us)
(http://img21.imageshack.us/img21/8316/pa290412.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/21/pa290412.jpg/)
Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us)
(http://img717.imageshack.us/img717/3237/pa290411.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/717/pa290411.jpg/)
Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us)
Also, this: Do I have the california model? See this under the seat, and I know the owner before the previous owner was in Nevada... And that I'm the fourth owner...
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/339/pa280402.jpg/ (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/339/pa280402.jpg/)
As for your suggestion, David, I think I get it. What kind of switch would you recommend?
I suppose this should be a plan B if just grounding the black/yellow wire doesn't allow the starter button to just work?
How much of a hassle is removing the fairing?
(http://imageshack.us/a/img339/5553/pa280402.jpg)
That last image in non-link form...
Sounds good .. I don't remember which way the screw turned for increase or decrease but it will be self evident. Just find a screw driver with a long shaft (8 inch's or so) to nudge it, it adjusts easy. Is just kinda hard to locate if you don't know where it is. Its not like you have to adjust it often. And you can do it by hand if you are careful, you got to be quick, it's hot in there.... And you should adjust it after the FJ is warmed up.
In a tight spot until you can get the FJ cleaned out/carbs rebuilt/tuned up or what ever it needs to be reliable you could give it a shot of starting fluid to help fire it up if its a problem. During the summer mine seems to start up better if I crack open the throttle a little (not twisting it, there's no accelerator pumps in the carbs) (my carbs are probably slightly rich), during the cold weather I just pull full choke leave the throttle alone and it fires right up. I let mine warm up for a min (don't get in a hurry) then step down the choke about half way and when the RPM stabilizes then pull the choke all the way off. You will find a "drill" that works for you.
Better get out of there before webbing starts to grow between you toes and fingers ...... :)
Glad to see you've got it running......at least good enough to ride it .
Looks like a nice bike once you sort it out...........Love the laughter in your video.
Kyle, You've definately got some balls trying to pull this off the way you have. I'm pulling for you to make it home........
I have no doubt that you will.......as long as you can keep in touch with the group on the forum, especially with the more knowledgable members here, you should be fine........
Before you head down the highway towards Portland, you should at least ride it around Seattle for a longer ride...............Say, 2 hour ride or so.........make sure it's going to run while it's good and hot, before you head away from the safety of the city, and your friend to come get you.
:drinks: Here's to you, and your new FJ making it home in one piece!
Watched your video, Nothing to be embarrassed about. The bike looks very clean and well taken care of. I think you got a great deal on your hands with many years of FJ enjoyment ahead of you. I am a machinery Electrician by trade. I know electrical systems on motorcycles and cars can easily turn into a nightmare. I don't even bother with cars, they go to the shop. Motorcycles I will troubleshoot and fix when needed.
Awesome job getting the bike started and running. :good2: :good: :drinks:
Fred
It does look nice :good2:
If the starter relay is like the ones in my waverunner it will melt inside if you crank it too long.When the plastic melts inside the contacts can no longer touch each other.Dont crank on it so long to start it.
Good chance the relay is bad.
The relay unit or the 'main relay'/solenoid?
Yeah, in retrospect it was a bit hard on the bike. On the other hand it is a brand new starter.
The round one you were hiting with the screwdriver.Long story but I melted one in my waverunner.Took it apart and the plastic melted so the contacts couldnt move to touch each other.
It was replaced, had never been used when I got the bike. I am pretty sure I still hear it clicking, but I'll check it. Anything's possible.
Cool vid mate, she looks fairly standard, , thats a good thing, :good2:
Quote from: fintip on October 31, 2012, 10:21:05 PM
I had already seen it and hoped I was wrong in assuming that was it. Alas. That's quite a pain to access, haha. Was planning on doing it soon. Clockwise pushes the idle up, correct?
Kyle, the easiest way and the one with the most control is with a gloved hand.
The trick is to open the throttle slightly to take the load off the screw so it turns easily, same if you want to use a screw driver, which I find a pain.
I can, and have, adjusted mine while at a red light.
Noel
Quote from: ribbert on November 01, 2012, 05:34:34 AM
Quote from: fintip on October 31, 2012, 10:21:05 PM
I had already seen it and hoped I was wrong in assuming that was it. Alas. That's quite a pain to access, haha. Was planning on doing it soon. Clockwise pushes the idle up, correct?
Kyle, the easiest way and the one with the most control is with a gloved hand.
The trick is to open the throttle slightly to take the load off the screw so it turns easily, same if you want to use a screw driver, which I find a pain.
I can, and have, adjusted mine while at a red light.
Noel
,, yep easy to adjust, even at lights, , pays to have small hands, even with summer gloves on
Mate, sounds like a real adventure, I could tell you all the reasons what you're doing is foolhardy and risky, but where's the fun in that... I have done much the same in my early days. Now I'm old and feral, I'll just read about you doing it thanks.
Quote from: fj11.5 on November 01, 2012, 05:38:24 AM
Quote from: ribbert on November 01, 2012, 05:34:34 AM
Quote from: fintip on October 31, 2012, 10:21:05 PM
I had already seen it and hoped I was wrong in assuming that was it. Alas. That's quite a pain to access, haha. Was planning on doing it soon. Clockwise pushes the idle up, correct?
Kyle, the easiest way and the one with the most control is with a gloved hand.
The trick is to open the throttle slightly to take the load off the screw so it turns easily, same if you want to use a screw driver, which I find a pain.
I can, and have, adjusted mine while at a red light.
Noel
,, yep easy to adjust, even at lights, , pays to have small hands, even with summer gloves on
I've got mechanics hands and wear 2 - 3 XL gloves
Noel
:hi: Nice going...Now, while the gremlins are off chasing someone else, get her packed up, wound up and head for home...:good2:
John... (popcorn)
Kyle,
If grounding the Blue w/White Stripe wire will spin the starter, then you won't have to take off the fairing.
All you'll need to do is connect a switch to the Blue/White wire and run the other end to ground. A monentary contact switch will work just like your starter button should. Use a long wire and tape the switch to the handlebar for convenience.
You can also hook all your switches back up. I think you've proved that they aren't the problem.
DavidR.
O'Reileys , Autozone or NAPA should have a switch to get you by here is an example.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Painless-Wiring-Push-button-extreme-condition-momentary-start-switch/_/N-255s?itemIdentifier=238965 (http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Painless-Wiring-Push-button-extreme-condition-momentary-start-switch/_/N-255s?itemIdentifier=238965)
Now MY wanderlust is acting up.
Quote from: Goetz on November 01, 2012, 02:04:22 PM
Now MY wanderlust is acting up.
I know what you mean. I did the same thing as FinTip when I bought my `92 FJ ABS.
Found it on E-Bay while looking for parts for my `90 FJ project. She was located in Madison, Wisconsin, and I'm in Orlando, Florida. Chat with owner about condition, title, and price, then found a cheap round-trip plane ticket (just in case...). Made the flight, owner picked me up and put me up for the night, then we signed the bike over at the bank the next morning. Rode her home over that weekend, by way of the Dragon. Loving her ever since.
This could be the start of an "adventure trend". With a limited budget, there are just so many "unknowns" to make the prospect uber-exciting! Shoot, even with an unlimited budget, it beats hiding from the world watching television!
Ride on, Mr. FinTip!
Steve
:hi:
So, the weather is cloudy with patches of sky, no rain today!
Went out and did the oil change (which is a BEAR to do without an extension socket for the ratchet... Sheesh...), changed the oil filter, oiled up the chain, put the side cover pieces of the fairing back on, starts and warmed her up well...
Then I geared up and took off. Went around town for a few miles, lights and stop signs. Finally found the highway.
Then I came back. It was a 35 mile trip. No problems. Bike has a happy idle of 1250~ when properly warmed up, and will come back down to it without hesitation at any given stoplight.
Getting back on the highway after a u-turn from a dead stop, I got to feel the incredible acceleration of the bike. In other words, today I learned the meaning of the word "kookaloo". :biggrin: :yahoo:
No problems to report. About to go hook up the givi rack mount.
Oh, and I tried the blue and white wire. That starts the bike. So the main relay solenoid is good. Just need to buy a switch and wire it up.
Thank you, everyone, for your help and encouragement so far. Now it's time to enjoy the west coast!
Quote from: fintip on November 01, 2012, 03:45:08 PM
Oh, and I tried the blue and white wire. That starts the bike. So the main relay solenoid is good. Just need to buy a switch and wire it up.
Excellent! The cut-out relay is probably bad. I'm pretty sure that can be replaced with a standard $5 relay from the auto parts store. I'll look into the wiring and post it.
Good luck and ride safe!
DavidR.
I love this thread, and the video! Congrats Kyle, for making great progress in spite of our weather (we had almost eighty days without rain recently, sorry you missed it!). I saw your bike on Craigslist and considered it, but was scared off by the thought of electrical problems. Kudos to you for taking it on, and good luck on your trip. You must make it to Canada, especially if you're single! The most beautiful ladies in the world live in British Columbia! :good2:
Oh, one thing I didn't mention is that my fuel and speedo gauges were wacko. Fuel gauge I never put much stock in, but I would like to have a working speedo. That said, I can use my tablet as a GPS speedo once I figure out how to mount it on the dash, so it isn't the most urgent issue, but what am looking at? It was bouncing around back and forth between 120 and 30 or something as if it were a see saw run by 4 year olds on sugar...
Re: relay, that'd be amazing good news. Let me know what you find, David.
Concerning Canada, maybe I'll try and make it across the border this weekend. But honestly I'm too broke to enjoy it properly right now. Hard to get a girl when you can't afford to buy her a drink, you know. Whether I go this time or not, I'll defnitely have to come another time. As for weather, I keep hearing that from everyone. Thanks for rubbing it in, haha. It's weird, I'm stating to think the rain follows me... it's a recurring theme in my motorcycling adventures...
Thanks for the encouragement!
Oh, and the kickstand switch definitely works. Killed the bike while I was parking to put the kickstand down while in gear. (I don't think it should work that way, since I had the clutch pulled, so I might have reversed the clutch switch wires...)
No, that's exactly what the kickstand switch is supposed to do.
If the kickstand is down and the motor is running, if you put it in gear, the motor will die. Won't even crank if the stand is down. Also won't crank if the kill switch is in the "kill" position.
The sidestand relay grounds the ignition system (i.e. kills it) to keep you from riding off with the stand down. It's working correctly.
Also, it doesn't matter if you reverse the wires on one of the switches. The switch is just a break in the wire, doesn't matter which wire is attached to the switch connectors. You're doing good, keep it up!
DavidR.
:hi: :mail1: (popcorn) (popcorn) (popcorn)
your speedo sounds like the one on my 89, likes to bounce around too, , 2000 rpm should be about 60klm/h ,, 4,200 about 100 kmh / 55 mph ?? if you have standard gearing ect,, in top for both,, could be your speedo cable needs a heavy oil to slow the bounce :scratch_one-s_head:
It looked like 60mph (fish, see speedo problem) was about 3000 rpm in 5th. Didn't have my GPS tracking it. Tachometer appears to be working properly... is this a mechanical or tci connected tach?
Taking a day trip to Canada on the motorcycle on Saturday if my friend finds a helmet he can borrow, otherwise we're going in his car. Then I leave for Portland Sunday.
Finished installing the givi rack today, didn't have time before. Packing stuff up right now.
Maybe I'll just go do a day trip myself to see Mt. Rainier...
tach runs off a coil I think, ,, enjoy your ride, , great day down here atm ,,
Kyle, great progress :good2:
get your relay sorted out and you are good to go .
remove your speedo cable and lubricate it with oil, this will help with the wiggles .
If you have the opportunity to meet with Mr. Bean take it, He knows his shit.
Seriously, well done Kyle. I have been reading this thread with amazement and a bit of concern that this entire thing will end miserably for you. Really glad to see you get as far as you have.
Now ride the hell out of that thing, and get south enough to be able to enjoy riding without being all bundled up.
Dan
Kyle, I was getting some much needed cleaning done in the garage yesterday and found something you could use. My old Fieldsheer leather jacket. I had offered it to another member that ended up buying one locally. It is not the best for SoCal as it is lined and not removable. It has an expansion zipper allowing for adding layers for warmth. If you are interested send me an address an I will send to you.
It has some scars and minor damage from my last unplanned dismount. But it will offer protection and warmth. I also have a pair of brown leather Roadman boots size 12 as well.
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7028/6400680093_e259c9d0aa.jpg)
WHERES KYLE LOL.
On the road or what.
I did pick up the 84 FJ1100
Going to be a lot of work it has not been on the road for 8 years.I did throw my carbs from the 90 on it yesterday and it runs and idles fine.I did a preliminary carb clean last night and will try they later today.
Clutch and brakes need fixing.She wont start with the switch had to jump the rellay going to troubleshoot that later too if theres time.Headlight doesnt work missing a turns signall etc.hold down strap btroke left side footpeg bracket so I need to replace that.Gas tank had some rust in it.I have a spare tank thats clean inside has a couple of dents outside so will use that for now.
Project bike needs plenty of work but it runs :yahoo:
Quote from: Flying Scotsman on November 04, 2012, 12:09:03 PM
WHERE'S KYLE? LOL.
On the road or what?
I very much hope so. I suspect we'll hear from him soon.
Dan
I hope so if we dont there's a problem.
Had the 84 running on its own carbs today I had to borrow a battery from the 90 as the extra one I had charging last night didnt take a charge and the 84 came with no battery.
What I saw in carbs.
Emulsion tubes ,no shroud.
OEM needles
Pilot 37.5
Pilot air 160
Main 125
I let her warm up and did a carb sinc then I ran out of daylight.Didnt get to adjust the pilot air screw set it at 2 1/2 need to go in its way rich.
Hey thinks for the concern, I'm fine. :flag_of_truce:
I ended up taking a day trip with my friend to vancouver Yesterday after all, in his car on account of terrible weather. While there, I looked at a map and saw 'nanaimo' nearby, and realized a friend I knew in Israel a few years ago used to live there.
So I hop on Facebook at a cafe in vancouver and look him up, send him a message asking if he's available, and decide to head to the international Buddhist temple nearby that has a 26 zaggat rating and was free.
That was kind of disappointing, but interesting. But then when I went back to the cafe, and checked Facebook, he said he'd actually moved to Vancouver and gave me his number and told me to call. I called and found out that actually, he lived ON the street I was using WiFi on. Couple hours later, we were having dinner and catching up. Great time. Invited my friend and I to spend the night. Next morning we explored the equivalent of central park, and then drove up to a mountain and hiked in the rain.
Consequently, I wasn't able to leave today as planned. Anyways, tomorrow is supposed to be a good weather both here and in portland., so I'll just do it tomorrow. Good time in Canada.
Congrats, Scotsman. Sounds like that's going well. :)
Dan, thanks. Means a lot coming from you.
Monkey, I'll send you my address. Thanks a ton. That's awfully nice of you. You're a really generous guy.
As for the speedo cable, maybe Mr. Bean will have some cable lube or some ideas. Looking forward to being on the road... I keep taking it around town for little trips to the grocery store and such, and it's just such a joy. My host doesn't want me to arrive until a bit after 6pm, so I think I'll take the long way to Portland and pass by some curves out by Mt. Rainier.
Be safe on the road there Kyle.......
Glad you got to ride it around for a few days before heading out further. It's good to get to know it's little quirks, so you're not surprised by something minor out on the open road......
Keep her between the lines, and post up the updates
Nice going! :good2:
Heres the first time running in 8 years 1984 fj1100
1984 fj1100 first start after 8 years. (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rMvyH1GPdvc#ws)
Quote from: Flying Scotsman on November 06, 2012, 01:07:21 PM
Heres the first time running in 8 years 1984 fj1100
The first FJ with a documented "man-chanical" fuel pump.
Good on ya!
Steve
Kyle made it to Portland fine. I'm meeting up with him Thursday evening and giving the bike a once over.
Will take a closer look at the starter button..
Thanks for the update ! I was wondering if he made it. "Where in the world is Kyle" ? (popcorn)
Quote from: pdxfj on November 06, 2012, 11:08:22 PM
Kyle made it to Portland fine. I'm meeting up with him Thursday evening and giving the bike a once over.
Will take a closer look at the starter button..
Oops..I'm a day ahead of myself.. I'll meet up with him Wednesday. Not Thursday...
I must need a beer...
Quote from: pdxfj on November 06, 2012, 11:55:58 PM
Oops..I'm a day ahead of myself.. I'll meet up with him Wednesday. Not Thursday...
I must need a beer...
Might want to remind Kyle that if he wants/needs that jacket of mine he needs to get me an address and and when it needs to arrive to be in time. I also remembered that I have an insulated rain suit, really keeps you warm. He can borrow that till he gets home.
:hi: Kyle, Kyle...are you in there buddy :morning1: :scratch_one-s_head: (popcorn) (popcorn)
Kyle came by last night to have a few things looked at on his bike.
All in all it's in good shape and runs well. The PO had drained the carbs before storage which has helped Kyle and the carbs quite a bit. He is aware that a tear down and cleaning is in order but likely won't have any issues getting home. The fuel gauge needle is on the wrong side of the pin and if I had more time I could have fixed that as well.
Speedo cable and drive were dry as a bone, the rear brake had some air in it. Left rear turn signal had some corrosion in it but is working fine now. Bike needs the cam cover gasket and grommets.
Something is/was funky with the starter button. The PO had taken it apart to troubleshoot the no starting problem. The internal spring was bent and Kyle did an excellent job of getting it back into proper order. Cleaned and lubed the switch and now it drags for some unknown reason.. but.. the bike starts with the button. Seems like the spring no longer has the pull to return the switch when you go to start the bike. The spring loaded copper contacts do not smoothly move (up and down) inside the switch. Bit of a pain to deal with but much less of a pain than removing the seat to start the bike each time.
So I don't know if the new starter switch issues are something I did or ??? I do feel that I owe him a new switch. Anyone have a spare I could purchase? Wasn't too great of a host since I totally forget about dinner..
Was good to meet him and I'm sure we will see him at rallies in the future.
Kudos to helping him out Garth. Unfortunately, I don't have a spare switch, but is there any chance some dielectric grease might help the sticky switch?
Sorry for being sparse on the updates lately; tiring typing on a touch screen. I just got access to a friend's laptop for the day, so I'm getting a bunch of typing out all at once.
Woke up Monday and went to visit on last friend in Seattle that I hadn't made it out to see yet. Packed the night before, so after breakfast with my host and then an early lunch visit with my friend, I made it back to the apartment to load up the bike.
And then I left.
I had intended to do a route that went east of Mt. Rainier through a park, but for some reason when I transferred the route from google maps to google navigation on my gps-tablet (Nexus 7 taped to the dash, for those interested), I got directed on a straight route down I-5 and didn't realize it until I had well passed where I would need to turn off to get to that route. So I improvised another route south of Rainier, but around the east side of Mt. Saint Helen instead. Nothing spectacular, but still pretty, and certainly better than superslab riding.
My route took a long time though! It was cold, and I tell you what, I am glad I picked up this heated jacket liner off craigslist for $75... Ski gloves I brought with me are doing the job on the hands. Balaclava carefully positioned is doing a decent job on the face/neck situation. Legs were cold, but I didn't layer up like I intended to, and it wasn't that bad.
Anyways, 6 hours later (I-5 makes it a less-than-three hour route) I arrived at my friend's place. Finally parked the bike in the garage...
...and of course, it hasn't rained since I got here. Just my luck.
Not that I'm complaining, haha. I've had plenty of rain for my taste in Seattle. Blech. xP Tell you what, I'm missing Texas weather after this.
Next stop, I realized that aside from my friend that lives in Redding that I was already going to visit, I got a random update from friends from Israel, a mass email to friends, saying they were also in Redding. Complete coincidence. I email them back and ask if they're still there, since that's my next stop. Sure enough, they want to host me when I get there.
Oh, life.
Like Mr. Bean said above, stopped by last night, get lots of little details tuned up. I didn't get to try it out until I was leaving, but while the speedo is definitely much better it is still definitely shakey (just not absurdly so). RPM gauge, I forgot to mention while I was there, developed an occasional intermittend mild jitter as well, and that comes and goes. Bike is definitely burning oil on the front from a leak, almost certainly from the valve/cam cover.
So funny thing is, after repeatedly testing the starter button with the two safety switches, one by one and together shorted, and not working.... I pull up and the first thing he checks is the starter button. Works like there was never a problem!
??
So later we take it apart and try and see if there's something to clean or check. Clean the contacts, that's all that really presents itself. Then putting it together, it doesn't seem to work quite right. It maybe felt a little soft compared to his starter button before, but now it just isn't quite sitting right. We noticed the spring seemed to likely have been bent by the PO and I spent some time trying to reshape the spring so it would sit correctly, and that seemed to help quite a bit, but now it pops out too far occasionally and sits in such a way that the contacts are lining up in either of its two positions, and so the starter will stop turning over when released, but the headlight/dash lights won't come on unless you play with it for a second, push it in a tad. Seems to drag, as well, and so will stay in unless you 'flick' the button to get the spring to launch past the friction it is making. Still, one way or the other, I was getting sick of unloading the bike and removing the seat and then reloading the bike every time I wanted to take a piss on the way down here, and having a now-funky start button definitely beats not having one at all.
Maybe Randy will be around and be able to look at it and have an idea? Neither of us saw any part go missing during disassembly, but it looks like there may be a piece missing. Just not quite sure.
(And yes, we lubed the thing and tried dielectric grease, used sand paper on the contacts, etc.)
Definitely a super helpful guy who knows his stuff, though, I was grateful that he had me over. :)
And wow, his FJ is one fine example! Especially considering where his started, it puts mine to shame. That 17" front sure does look pretty! :)
I have to say though, riding down... I've only been riding pre-'83 jap bikes (and a friend's '83 BMW R100RS), and no bike I've ever ridden even compared to the handling on this bike, even stock as mine is. Just, wow. I can't imagine needing a 17", as even with the 16" I've never ridden on something that felt this way. This was obviously just such a jump in technology, as if this bike marks a line between the old school and the new school in handling tech. Certainly a generation jump. Makes me wonder what a new bike feels like, or a modded FJ feels like. For now, though, my ignorance is bliss! :) (Or maybe I'll be bizarre and end up agreeing with Alf that the 16" is more nimble, haha. He's the only one I've seen advocate a preference for the 16" wheel.)
I could not believe the power of the bike, though. All the weight--two fully loaded givi bags, an accordioned out tank bag I brought with me another tank bag (both full to the brim), and the stock seat strapped onto the rear, and the bike just pulls like nothing in 5th past whoever I want to pass. Definitely starting to understanding the obsession with these bikes...
And yes, hope to make it out to some rallies in the future, we'll see. It's a long ride out here, but with a Corbin seat, anything is possible. ;)
Got a couple pics yesterday, will get them up later tonight hopefully.
Heading to Redding tomorrow! Wish me luck! Should see the first really beautiful parts of the ride then.
Kyle
Riding. In the rain is great if your dressed for it, don't get too cold mate, nasty things happen ,, as for your switch, if nobody else has switch parts I should be able to send any bits you may need with the seat lever ,, I changed my switch blocks to xjr ones, not much work but much better switches , and not 20+ years old :biggrin:,, glad your safe and well mate ,, hope you make it too Austin before the snow and black ice hit
Kyle,
Just a hint for warming knees and hands -
If you are on a superslab or some crusie road, put your feet on the pillon pegs. The heat exiting from the sidecovers vents will warm your knees. This is also a good place to thaw your hands (one by one) if necessary.
Note: you'll need some kind of throttle hold to use this for your right hand :-)
Arnie
Glad to hear you are doing good and making progress. Take it easy if the roads are wet. Yes, the power is great. I am not a aggressive rider but enjoy having the power there to pass and to do what it takes to maintain auto/bike separation. If you have good self control its one of the best bikes on the market for the money if not the best.
Stay safe and enjoy.
Thanks for the tips!
Some pics to keep you guys up: (http://imageshack.us/a/img692/3456/pb010425.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img542/9418/pb010426.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/542/pb010426.jpg/)
Random bike I saw in Seattle, right outside the Tesla Dealership: (http://imageshack.us/a/img600/1981/pa300422.jpg)
It's an old KZ1000 I think? Don't remember right now. Guy used to work at a bike shop, some wrecked Tesla Motors bike came in and he salvaged the tank decal for his. Pretty sweet. Kickstart bike, wiring harness from scratch, pods. Did it all himself. Fun stuff.
(http://imageshack.us/a/img521/6255/pa300421.jpg)
By the way... Anyone interested in reading up on the full backstory of this trip:
http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=828805 (http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=828805)
Next chapter in that thread is to start writing about selling the XJ in Austin 3 weeks ago and then making it out to the North West.
Quote from: Arnie on November 08, 2012, 07:33:15 PM
Kyle,
Just a hint for warming knees and hands -
If you are on a superslab or some crusie road, put your feet on the pillon pegs. The heat exiting from the sidecovers vents will warm your knees. This is also a good place to thaw your hands (one by one) if necessary.
Note: you'll need some kind of throttle hold to use this for your right hand :-)
Arnie
When I stop for coffee, lunch or whatever, I shove my gloves in the cavity behind the barrels and under the carbs.
If damp they will dry and either way they are very warm when putting back on.
Noel
So, made it safely 425+ miles down to Redding. Unfortunately, I didn't realize the slightly-scenic route going east of I-5 was a high altitude route... Passed a functioning ski lift and several passes with signs "Tire Chains Required" and such. I don't think I've ever been so cold in my life, haha.
Here's me just before leaving seattle, all loaded up:
(http://imageshack.us/a/img266/1087/pb050445.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img189/6692/pb050444.jpg)
On the way down to Portland: (http://imageshack.us/a/img802/2530/pb050448.jpg)
Starting the bike up after stopping for a piss... Was a pain unloading and reloading to remove the seat everytime I wanted to start the bike. Much nicer having a starter button. Never properly appreciated that convenience before... (http://imageshack.us/a/img42/1359/pb050449.jpg)
A picture of me with the bike in Portland: (http://img821.imageshack.us/img821/3397/61595910151057355480736.jpg)
A picture of me starting to get into the overpass at 4500 or so feet.... (http://imageshack.us/a/img528/4397/pb100450.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img341/8163/pb100452.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img94/1807/pb100451.jpg)
I thought I was in the clear after some downhill for a while and coming out into the high desert: (http://imageshack.us/a/img607/6514/pb100455.jpg)
But I wasn't. It stayed freezing, and I passed a lot of snow that day. It wasn't until the California border that the elevation starter going down a bit, I think, and I hit it right after sunset... Which meant it didn't warm up any. I put on almost all the clothes I owned at some point, and my fingers and toes were still going numb through ski gloves and three pairs of socks. Like, painfully numb.
The bike itself was remarkably comfortable, though. Sure wish I had a grip wind blocker, honestly. Just simple pieces of plastic to keep the wind from getting into the gloves.
At one point some guys I was talking to scared me. They thought I was crazy to be riding a motorcycle through there at this time of year (I didn't see another bike on the road all day), and told me that I wouldn't be able to make it far enough south to escape black ice at sunset. I started speeding for the first time after that, and sure enough, without 20 minutes, I passed one of the only cops of the day... Who basically threw the book at me. Said I was going 78 in a 55 (Oregon has crazy low speed limits, they all went up immediately after crossing the border into Cali). Also ticketed me for no insurance; I said that Washington was a no-insurance state for motorcycles, and he got really rude and told me I just needed to use common sense and that that was a load of BS. (Are cops allowed to talk like that?). I really hate cops. I do. There are a few good ones out there, and I exclude them from this, but I constantly have terrible interactions with them. I am extremely polite, and they are always exceedingly rude, and I have never been given a warning. I had never gotten a speeding ticket (or even been pulled over for speeding) until three months ago. Now I've gotten 4 in the last three months. Some kind of curse...
And not one ticket in Mexico, and there I sped the whole way.
I had some other bad luck, though the bike has been nothing but reliable the whole way. Nice to finally be out of the rain, even if it is still cold here in Redding. (Just started being cold 2 days ago, everyone keeps telling me.) Next stop is Sacramento.
When hands and feet get cold enough to hurt, its getting bad for your health, once you feel no pain your in trouble ,, id send you some heated grips but think you would be back in Austin before they reached your next big stop ,, seat lever is on its way,, the cop probably wasn't a biker , no sence of humor some of them :biggrin:
Fixed pictures.
Also, yes. I was afraid of getting frostbite or hypothermia, so I did stop two or three times, one time started shaking almost uncontrollably. That's when I changed and put on 5 layers for pants and shirt+heated jacket+rain coat+rain shell for the top. On the highest heat setting, I was kept just stable... and only in my torso. That's how cold it was. Also was wearing both balaclava and scarf, and my face was cold, but not painfully so.
Yeah that's getting rather cold mate,, worst thing about lots of layers is it make it harder to move ,, your going great mate , especially when ppl you just met start stressing out, , maybe because they wouldn't attempt the trip, , did you mount your tablet ,, if so does it show wind chill at speed, bet its way into the minus,, stay safe buddy , and have fun :good2:
Glad you are in Redding. Weather will get warmer now as you go South. Still give some thought to not going East until you get down to the LA area.. The Sierras are not warm..
The no motorcycle insurance requirement in Washington State is hard to believe when confronted buy LEO's in other states. Some LEO's will not site for no insurance with Washington plates with proper registration if passing through, and some will... Idaho and Oregon being co joined they most likely will issue a ticket. A number of Washington residents that live on the border and work in Oregon or Idaho often think they don't have to have insurance. I would guess that most of them if stopped are cited. And I am told it holds up in court.
Junk in junk out. I would say its best if you would get at least the minimum insurance just because. I think mine runs under 100.00 a year. FJ's have kind of fallen off there "bad bike" list. Another good thing about owning an FJ. I don't know what to tell you about the speeding. It is what it is. I agree 55 is to slow. You read the sign and make your own decision. It's like double yellow lines, there no exceptions or special rules for motorcycles. It is frustrating when you are in a different performance envelope. Every speeding ticket I got, I was speeding... Stay alert in Calif. also. They are not turning any "revenue" away. When I was in San Diego, one of the locals referred to there city as "Enron Buy The Sea". I would also remark that Washington State is in a very active "revenue gathering" mode also.
I am NOT giving advice or recommending it but if I was never going back to Oregon again I would just shine the tickets on. I am not a LEO or in any related field. I guess if it got really bad I would send them a death certificate... How much do one of those cost? :) Just kidding. Do some research when you get back home. Tickets in Oregon are expensive. An attorney or yourself might be able to send them a respectful letter and get the tickets dismissed or reduced.
The FJ's are comfortable for a bike even with the stock seat. You sit in them not on top of them like a lump. It's a good riding position. I like your luggage. Wish I had had hard bags on mine. Nice photo's also. Stay safe Kyle and head South....
Kyle, if you make it to North LA I can host a night or two if you need a warm landing place. Might add some miles but could add some rest and comfort... Look up 91214 if you have a smart phone or internet.
The weather is nice here in Austin if you are planning on being home in the next week.......It's supposed to be 80 on Tuesday....
70 all weekend! :good2:
Kyle,
pay your tickets or they will catch up to you later.
I got a notice of suspension for a ticket I received 21 years ago in arizona.
all the states are now linked up with dmv.
most of the time you never know until you get pulled over and find out from the cop.
keep your payment receipt , I ended up paying for the same ticket twice. 21 years later.
Glad the bikes working out so well for you. Sucks on the tickets though. The weather down here is Glorious I'm riding today. Hurry up and get south! I was in Longview TX day before yesterday and it was nice there too. Have fun and be safe.
Will catch up soon, thanks everyone. Just made it into Sacramento last night... Was an eventful ride. Fate is determined to give me interesting stories wherever I go.
Quote from: fintip on November 16, 2012, 03:48:36 PM
Will catch up soon, thanks everyone. Just made it into Sacramento last night... Was an eventful ride. Fate is determined to give me interesting stories wherever I go.
:mail1: :yahoo: (popcorn) (popcorn)
(popcorn) (popcorn) :good2:
Quote from: FJmonkey on November 12, 2012, 08:00:58 PM
Kyle, if you make it to North LA I can host a night or two if you need a warm landing place. Might add some miles but could add some rest and comfort... Look up 91214 if you have a smart phone or internet.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/11/17/yty8amu8.jpg)
Quote from: Klavdy on November 16, 2012, 10:48:06 PM
Quote from: FJmonkey on November 12, 2012, 08:00:58 PM
Kyle, if you make it to North LA I can host a night or two if you need a warm landing place. Might add some miles but could add some rest and comfort... Look up 91214 if you have a smart phone or internet.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/11/17/yty8amu8.jpg)
I love you too K-man...
Hey!
Check this out, (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281020408475)
(http://i.ebayimg.com/t/YAMAHA-FJ-1200-Chop-Bobber-x-classic-car-w-h-y-/00/s/MTIwMFgxNjAw/$T2eC16d,!yEE9s5jGKoOBQk9cNz+fg~~60_58.JPG)
Quote from: Klavdy on November 16, 2012, 11:04:52 PM
Hey!
Check this out, (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281020408475)
(http://i.ebayimg.com/t/YAMAHA-FJ-1200-Chop-Bobber-x-classic-car-w-h-y-/00/s/MTIwMFgxNjAw/$T2eC16d,!yEE9s5jGKoOBQk9cNz+fg~~60_58.JPG)
Late to the party Eh? Saw that already, still love you man....
Quote from: Klavdy on November 16, 2012, 11:04:52 PM
(http://i.ebayimg.com/t/YAMAHA-FJ-1200-Chop-Bobber-x-classic-car-w-h-y-/00/s/MTIwMFgxNjAw/$T2eC16d,!yEE9s5jGKoOBQk9cNz+fg~~60_58.JPG)
That bike is you sir... tell us how she rides.
Frank
Oh, you'd seen it before?
It's pretty awesome, eh!
You've still got time to get that wallpaper up in the guest room.
Quote from: Klavdy on November 16, 2012, 11:10:26 PM
Oh, you'd seen it before?
It's pretty awesome, eh!
You've still got time to get that wallpaper up in the guest room.
If I knew when you were coming to visit, I will have it ready for you.... But I will need to tear it down after you leave to keep the property values from tanking...
Those diversions aside... Haha.
So, I'm in LA, being hosted by the venerable power ranger. But I'm getting ahead of myself.
After staying with some friends from Israel who are staying for a few months in Redding, several days there, I decided I needed to hit the road before I got rained in for another few days. In an attempt to hold me for as long as they could, I ended up not being able to leave until 8:30PM. Next stop? Sacramento. Scrambling to get going, in a rush, and having been rushed all day cramming things together, I just rushed out the door to leave as quick as I could.
But not so fast. While I was in Redding, I noticed something. My now 'functioning' starter button is an intermittent issue. Sometimes it reverts to its old behaviour, and doesn't start. I left it alone at least once for several hours, and then, voila, it worked like a charm. Odd.
So I hit the road, rushing to meet my next host--the famous mrmaxstorey from youtube, who I learned a lot of motorcycle mechanics from and whose videos were helpful to me in repairing my petcock. When I asked him some questions about my FJ before I'd seen it, he heard of my plans and said that if I was passing through California, I should let him know and he'd put me up for a night. Knowing I was close, I messaged him, and he sent a number and an address and invited me over.
So I'm driving down the main highway in the dark, trying to make good time, when the bike suddenly dies on me. Seems electrical in nature, but lights are all still on. Starter button isn't working now, just flashes oil and fuel lights at me...
Try to bypass the solenoid. Cranks, but doesn't fire.
Figuring this sounds like a sitcom episode, I call the guy whose videos I learned so much from. He says it sounds like I don't have spark. I had considered that unlikely, since my starter button woes seem to kind of be the issue, and I had spark when I had that problem, but I agree that the symptoms make more sense that way. I pull the bike apart, pull out the factory toolkit and remove a spark plug. Short out the solenoid with one hand and hold the plug to the block with the other...
...No spark. Huh. I text him that he was right. He had texted saying to test my safety switches while I was checking for spark. I figure maybe one of them went bad after I disturbed it before after all, and tell him I'll start that--but he texts back telling me to instead just vigorously switch the kill switch back and forth. I am certain that can't be it, since I never have touched the kill switch (maybe once or twice for troubleshooting, but other than that I always turn off the bike with the key, so as not to disturb and cause the kill switch to eventually fail).
I rock it back and forth, hearing the solenoid switch on and off as I do so, convinced that the sound vindicates me. I press the starter button.
Bam! Even with the #1 spark plug sitting out, the bike starts and starts idling on three cylinders. (!!!)
I stitch it back up together and repack and hit the road again.
Having noticed a seemingly properly functioning fuel light on a prior ride, I figure I should be fine--reserve worked as it was supposed to I noticed before, when the bike cut out on fuel, and flipping the reserve switch worked out.
I normally go off of trip odometer anyways, but I needed gas shortly upon leaving Redding, and the first place I found was expensive--3.89 for basic. So I only put in $10, since my budget relies on me averaging quite a bit cheaper than that for gas (hoping for $3.70).
So I don't know how far I have with what gas was in the tank plug whatever $10 was.
The fuel light comes on after 120 miles or so. I start looking for the next exit with a gas station. Finally see one, fairly isolated, 10 miles later. I pull over, stop at the stop sign, turn to go over the bridge, and pull into a shell. Another expensive one. It's now 11pm. Swipe my card. "ENTER ZIPCODE."
I put in the zip code for the mailing address for the debit card.
"AUTHORIZATION FAILED. SEE CASHIER."
Only, there is no cashier... Station is closed....
Ok...
Drive over to the 79 right next to it.
Aaaaand it's a direct repeat. Lovely.
Not a soul around this whole time.
I've only gone 10 miles on reserve, I reason, I should be able to make it to the next string of gas stations.
I pull uphill and over the bridge, to the stop sign from before on the southbound side of I-5.
Aaaand the bike dies.
??
I try to start it. Starter button: crank, no fire, few stumbles.
Try push starting down the on ramp.
No dice.
Open the gas cap. Bone dry. Not a drop in there. You have got to be kidding me.
There's an RV parked in the dark on the on ramp. I pull over next to it and knock on the door, saying loudly, "Is anyone there?"
"Yes?"
"Sorry to bother you, this must sound weird, but I'm on my motorcycle and my card was not accepted because it is out of state across the street, and so I've completely run out of gas. Any chance you can help me? I can pay cash if you can help."
Silence. Crickets.
Great. A few minutes. "I guess that means no?"
Silence.
Wonderful. I try stopping a few cars. Eventually I realize I just need to push this hulking beast up the on ramp, and up over the bridge, to the gas station, and then wait for someone else whose card works, pay them cash, and have them put gas in the bike. I start pushing. It's killer with all the weight, surely 600 lbs or so.
Then an old truck pulls beside me with a camper while I'm stopped halfway up the ramp to rest my legs for a second. I wave him down, and explain my situation. Crusty old character. Says we can load it up in the back of his camper, but he doesn't have money (that's fine, I wasn't asking for any) and doesn't have a gas can (bummer), and doesn't want to enter the highway, go down a few miles to the next uturn and come back or anything...
...So we should load it up and go to the next exit. I tell him that probably won't work, this is a big bike. He goes back to look at it and realizes I wasn't kidding, we'd have to unload everything and have a nightmare, I really don't like the idea. Eventually, I tell him I'll just try my luck at the gas station across the street. He starts to walk away and asks, "Hey, you know who you just met?"
"Who?"
"The Harley Davidson family." He then listed a lot of names I wasn't familiar with, and said they were his relatives. I offered to shake his hand, but he turned me down. He had kept saying that he'd been dealing with bikes his whole life, and when he first saw the bike (I have the FJ1200 decals stripped from my side panels) he asked if it was a YICS bike (a technology Yamaha used on the XJ line). Who knows?
Anyways, I finally push the beast over the hill and coast down to the gas station. Stop and start waiting. Someone pulls up. I explain my situation. They try and help.
Their card is rejected too, same response. They try the 79 across the street. Same thing.
So we're waiting together. I go across the street to the closing Jack in the Box. I ask the employee if he can help. He says he can probably run across for a few minutes. Just as we get there, there's a nice Tahoe pulled in at a pump. A guy looking like his late teens hops out in a "onesie". I call over and ask if it's working for him. He says it is. Great!
Can he help me? I explain my situation. He says sure, walks over, I pay him $18, he puts $18.75 in my tank. I start looking for change, and he tells me not to worry about it. He says he's on his way to Seattle now. With a thanks, and goodbyes to everyone around, I finally get back on the road.
I get to my host after 1AM. He's cool, though, he understands. I hate being late, so it was a relief to find him so gracious in accepting a stranger in the middle of the night.
Over the next few days, we become fast friends. Max is really a great guy who is every bit as friendly as he comes off in his videos. We swap stories and talk bikes and work on stuff. I let him test my bike out, and his response upon coming back: "Seems like a bike that would be very easy to get a ticket on."
Oh how right you are.... :mad: (Looking at you, Oregon...)
It starts to rain on and off after I come, but after two days of befriending him and his wife and starting to feel like I could happily stay there a week, the weather clears for a day unexpectedly, and is clear all the way down to LA. I decide that it's better to leave earlier than wait for my welcome to wear out, though, and decided to hit the road before I get rained in again. I load up, say my goodbyes, call Monkey, and head out to San Fran so I can see the Golden Gate Bridge (1st time in my life) and drive down Hwy 1.
Golden Gate Bridge is nice. It's red, not gold. It's big. Fairly pleasant ride out there. Stop at a starbucks to pick out the next leg of my journey on their wifi. It's now 1:30pm. I start heading down 1. I stop once or twice, but mostly just ride along. I don't realize it, but I am not covering many miles for the time. Traffic isn't bad, but it certainly isn't light. The view is nice, though the section I'm in mostly isn't spectacular. Traffic is detracting from it. Eventually it's about 3:45pm and I stop for gas. I ask how far to LA. "10 hours" someone tells me. WHAT? "Yeah, if you go down 1. Maybe a little less." Her friend argues and says she thought it was 8. Woah woah woah, I was expecting to be there in 3 hours, I've been riding since 11:30AM.
I keep riding down. Around 4:30 I see a little roadside farm/market that had a sign for 9 avocados for $1! Can't pass that up, and haven't eaten since breakfast. So I stop and do a little shopping. Stock up on avocados and get a good price on some Salsa. Pull out bread and cheese I got at the supermarket in Sacramento and make myself a sandwich of avo, cheese, and salsa on bread. Delicious. I also got 3 bananas--I eat one. Hit the road. About 4:50. Starting to dim. I get to a down down the road around 5:30 and ask the gas station attendant how far to LA. He tells me 6-8 hours depending on speed. He says he wouldn't recommend it at dark. I ask him how he would go. He says he'd go north a few miles, find 46(?) east, take it to 101, and go south on that. So I do that. Get terribly confused because 46 west and 46 east are separated by about 5 exits, and I keep trying to figure out a way to get 46 west exit to bring me to 46 east.
That takes me about 45 minutes. I get to 101 and start flying. Around 8pm I stop and call Monkey and let him know what's up as I fill up the tank--I pulled in literally on fumes, coasting the last 1/4 mile mostly on the clutch to conserve what little gas I have. (I hadn't been able to fill up all the way because of these darn fume-recovery fuel pumps that won't let me stick the last gallon in the tank, and my light came on but maybe late again...)
He was expecting me to arrive any minute, so he's obviously a little shocked how far away I am, and tells me that heading further east and taking 5 will save me a fair amount of time. So I do that. I am flying, trying to make it by at least 11PM. I don't speed passing cars on my own, but this connecting road between 101 and 5 seems to go on in the back country forever, and everyone is flying around 80mph or so.
When I get to 5, people are going even faster. I'm following people getting up past 100mph. Eventually we're in mountain passes in the dark, and some cars are going so fast and weaving so aggressively that I simply cannot safely tail them. Generally, though, I'm making excellent time. It's about 210 miles from the last gas station where I called him to his house, so I'm hoping that all my speeding will pay off. I spend the time calculating average speed by watching the trip odometer and the clock--5 minutes, 6.8 miles... 5 x 12 = 60, 6 x 12 = 72, .8 x 12, 81.6. Then at ten minutes, recalculate, and get closer. Eventually my average for 30 minutes was close to 91mph.
Just when I'm in LA, with no gas light having ever come on, the bike starts to feel like it's low on gas. I switch to RES and start leaning off the throttle. After a half mile, the bike is slowing down. It's been about 190 miles, less than ranges I have had before, but then I have been flying. Crap, I just passed an exit for a gas station. Bike won't accelerate. I take the next exit, and roll to a stop. I try waving some people down. No use, they're going to fast on the exit to get a chance to consider it. I check in the tank. Empty. I try and figure out what to do. The off ramp here goes downhill steeply into the dark.
With no better idea, and figuring I can't do any worse, I finally decide to coast down the off ramp. I coast down some mild sweepers on the shoulder, with lights on and a blinker to make sure I get noticed. I hit another highway shoulder, still going downhill. I keep coasting around 8mph. I coast up to an exit and hop off the disappearing shoulder and coast down the exit itself. I coast up to a light, aaaaand, lo and behold, there's a shell across the street. I could kiss the gas pump as I stop at the light, hop off, and push the bike across the street. I fill it up, take a look at what little of LA my tablet maps app cached, and realize I had missed my exit when I ran out of gas, and I am almost to Monkey's. I figure out that I can start heading east and just about get close to where he is, but my app has also for some reason dropped his location, whereas I had tried to close the thing with his address indicated. Now it's gone, and all I remember it that I need to take the philidelphia or something exit off of 210.
I don't make it to his house until 12, as I took the correct direction on 210, felt like maybe it was wrong when I wasn't seeing his exit and did a Uturn ONE exit too early (!! ugh), and then went all the way North before realizing that no, he is south, have some stranger at a gas station pull up the address on his smart phone and FLY south at 110 the whole way to get to his house ASAP. (Also, highways outside of Texas are odd. You guys don't have "Frontage Roads" like we have them in Texas--which is virtually EVERYWHERE. A glorious thing when you need to head the other way on the highway...)
Finally arrive. Hit the hay. 13 hours of driving. Unbelievable. -_-
And there. We're caught up to a couple days ago.
So I've been here with Monkey and his wife the past few days. His wife and I talk during the day--she has a wonderful piano that isn't play enough, and her mother's old classical guitar needing some taking are off, so I restrung it for her and have been stretching the new strings in trying to break them in so they'll hold a tune. Monkey took a ride on my FJ and seemed impressed, calling my transmission 'enviable' and calling the bike in general a Garage Queen, pointing out a thousand little details that I hadn't noticed were special (example: my 'boot' for the trip reset button is still in place. Didn't know that was a hot item).
Got to hear his start today, though his battery is toast and his is wired up funny, so it'd be a pain to drop mine in, so he doesn't want to risk riding it. Still, just hearing it start with the supertraps on... Holy cow. What a sound. So different. Ogled his upgraded front and rear. Talked lots of tech. Tonight we balanced my carbs; they weren't much off, but now the idle is set at about 1050 and the bike is smoothly set.
Also, wow, Angels Crest... Glorious! Can't wait to go for a short pleasure ride on that road tomorrow!
Monkey and his wife have been great hosts, very friendly people, very hospitable, and I feel very lucky to be here in their home.
While here, I got a call. My understanding had been that my family was doing thanksgiving a week late. I just confirmed a few days ago that actually, they're hoping to celebrate this weekend, on Saturday. I had been planning to do the Iron Butt's SaddleSore 1000 from Flagstaff to Mt. Pleasant, TX, which is where thanksgiving is in my family this year (it's 1,059 miles between the two). But given my time frame, and realizing that LA to Mt. Pleasant is about 1525 miles if I pass by flagstaff (though it is 1660 if I go by the Grand Canyon itself, which is 80 miles north of Flagstaff), and realizing that the 1k in 24 is kind of like the 'silver' achievement and 1.5k in 36 hours is more like the 'gold'... I figure, why the hell not? When else am I going to have an excuse to do this and not be wasting fuel or missing pretty rides?
So I started planning it. I just got a host in Albuquerque on Couchsurfing, first time I won't be staying with either a friend, friend of friend, or internet friend (forum/youtube) and will need to use the site on the US/Canada portion of the trip. It's 925 miles there. If I leave at 6:30AM, at sunrise, I should pass by the grand canyon before sunset, and hit Albuquerque by 10pm-ish. I will crash for 6 hours, wake up, and hit the road again, driving non stop until that evening.
This is the route:
Day 1: http://goo.gl/maps/eGmnU (http://goo.gl/maps/eGmnU)
"Day" 2: http://goo.gl/maps/GWxKc (http://goo.gl/maps/GWxKc)
Food will be pre-packed sandwhiches, and trail mix on the tank bag. GPS enabled Nexus 7 will be taped to my dash and running trip averages for time, speed, average moving speed, average total speed, top speed. Will be plugged into power socket/lighter power adapter that I brought along with a USB converter plug, so it will run the whole time. Camera battery will be charged. Will be stopping every 150 miles for gas, so as not to risk any mishaps.
Planning to leave morning after next. Should be one hell of a ride. Wish me luck. And many thanks to Corbin, this seat is the most comfortable motorcycle saddle I've ever had the pleasure of resting my ass on. Not a single sore spot after my 13 hour ride here or long ride from Portland to Redding before.
Also, thanks to Monkey, who is passing on one of his many sets of gloves that are an upgrade from my ski gloves as well as his old leather jacket that's a perfect fit, and an old pair of boots he doesn't use anymore. All are going to be much appreciate on the higher altitude side of Arizona and NM during the night riding sections.
:yahoo:
This is probably going to hurt, but I am looking forward to telling my grandkids this story. How far can a sight unseen bike purchase GO!? Let's find out!
Cheers,
Kyle
Glad to hear you are ok and on track. Please be safe. It is hard to believe now that you are in the LA area but the Flagstaff area will be cold. You will not start to warm again until you get into Amarillo. After you leave ABQ you will climb up to Clines Corner it can get cold and icy up there. After you leave there headed East the stops are far between until Amarillo. Mostly Indian reservations. Again please be safe and manage the risk. Thanks for the update on your ride I was wondering how you were progressing.
...Should have been a Gary Paulsen book. "The FJ" :good2: :good2:
1,500+ plus miles, eh?
Most people work up to something like that.
Take ibuprofen, watch the water level in your battery.
Riding a long distance does things to you.
When you start seeing monsters, it's probably a good idea to stop for a while.
Kyle ,
sorry I missed when you where in sac , there is a fj owner here with lots of spare parts and probably had a starter switch for ya.
keep on rockin ,your story is epic. :wacko1:
Quote from: Klavdy on November 21, 2012, 07:40:45 AM
1,500+ plus miles, eh?
Most people work up to something like that.
Take ibuprofen, watch the water level in your battery.
Riding a long distance does things to you.
When you start seeing monsters, it's probably a good idea to stop for a while.
He has a sealed battery so he just needs to keep himself hydrated and alert.
Take it easy on the Iron Butt ride. Stop when you need to. 36 hours does give you time to stop and sleep for a bit.
One tip on the pumps with the vapor boots. Hold the pump handle in your right hand and use your left to pull back the boot. This will allow you to fill up the bike all the way. I put the nozzle just inside the tank, hold the boot back and keep an eye on the fuel level. As it gets closer to the top I slow the filling rate and back the nozzle out a bit.
Quote from: pdxfj on November 21, 2012, 12:03:29 PM
Take it easy on the Iron Butt ride. Stop when you need to. 36 hours does give you time to stop and sleep for a bit.
One tip on the pumps with the vapor boots. Hold the pump handle in your right hand and use your left to pull back the boot. This will allow you to fill up the bike all the way. I put the nozzle just inside the tank, hold the boot back and keep an eye on the fuel level. As it gets closer to the top I slow the filling rate and back the nozzle out a bit.
Good timing, we covered that yesterday when he said the California gas nozzles really suck, you can't get a full tank. And fill up on the center stand just before you leave, not before you take a break. It might be a few more ounces but every little bit helps when you don't exactly now how far the next station is.
Of course I can't find a link to one now, and it probably wouldn't help, but at one point someone made a tool for holding the silly boot things in a retracted position.
Okay, found one (http://greggzivney.com/zivblog/new-zivs-nozzle-clip/). Wouldn't be hard to make, though when I have travelled to less-civilized places that use such barbaric contraptions on their despensers, I just hold it back with my free hand and pump my fuel as god intented.
Quote from: pdxfj on November 21, 2012, 12:03:29 PM
Take it easy on the Iron Butt ride. Stop when you need to. 36 hours does give you time to stop and sleep for a bit.
One tip on the pumps with the vapor boots. Hold the pump handle in your right hand and use your left to pull back the boot. This will allow you to fill up the bike all the way. I put the nozzle just inside the tank, hold the boot back and keep an eye on the fuel level. As it gets closer to the top I slow the filling rate and back the nozzle out a bit.
+1, this is exactly what I do.
Dan
Quote from: andyb on November 21, 2012, 04:19:27 PM
Of course I can't find a link to one now, and it probably wouldn't help, but at one point someone made a tool for holding the silly boot things in a retracted position.
Okay, found one (http://greggzivney.com/zivblog/new-zivs-nozzle-clip/). Wouldn't be hard to make, though when I have travelled to less-civilized places that use such barbaric contraptions on their dispensers, I just hold it back with my free hand and pump my fuel as god in tented.
When I lived in in Southern CA. in the 80's and 90's, I had a fuel nozzle boot tool. It was hexagon shaped with a V shape cut in the middle. one angle was slightly larger so 2 different sizes of nozzle could fit through.
Love reading your adventure and the dealings of your bike. Good Luck on your continuing journey, ride safe and keep the rubber on the road.
Fred
I made it, guys. Back with Family in East Texas. Completed both the 1000 in 24 and the 1500 in 36. Receipts and witnesses and trip log... Though it's not over until they approve it, and I don't have the $45 to send in yet. But wow. Full update later.
Thanks everyone. :)
Great news. Glad you are home safe and sound. Hell of a way to learn about FJ's. Hats off to you. :hi:
Congratulations Kyle. Well done. I am jealous of your adventure, I wish I had the luxury of time it would take to undertake such an adventure.
Thanks for the entertaining read.
Dan
:hi: Hats off to you Kyle... :good2: ... this has been one memorable adventure to read, let alone ride :wacko3:
Good times ahead for you and your FJ, I'm sure ... :drinks:
John.
Yeah, Congratulations Kyle. You've done a whole lot better than I thought you would.
Maybe give the bike some part of the credit, but you've done most of it ;-)
Well done.
Arnie
Well done Kyle!
Once you can sort out the small problems with your FJ (now that you are back home) you will have an even better understanding of why we all love the FJ.
We would still appreciate your updates on the bike along with a few pictures.
We are here to help.
I hope to meet you someday at one of our rallys.
Leon
way to go Kyle :drinks:
you got the right stuff.
come back to california for the west coast rally in june .
Man, I'm still exhausted. I've been trying to throw together a basic collection of video from the trip, but given that my computer with Sony Vegas was stolen in Austin, I'm programless. I've spent the last few hours trying to find some kind of basic free editor ( :ireful: ), but nothing will edit MP4's that's free (since that's not an open source codec, so any company that includes that codec in their program has to pay to be able to give it... And even if you have the codec for other programs, it has to be specified for each app... I digress).
So we'll get to that soon enough. In the meantime, I managed to snap a handful of pictures on the Iron Butt run:
Looking up Monkey's address on some guy's smartphone in the middle of the night, just trying to figure out where the exit is. I got this picture because in Israel there's a major chain of mini grocery stores called AM/PM, so it was weird. (We don't have these in Texas, don't know if they're common out here or if this one is solo.) Anyways, I mostly took this for friends on Facebook:
(http://imageshack.us/a/img11/4600/pb190010.jpg)
Most expensive gas I found in the whole US. It was after a huge stretch of nothing, on the edge of the border of California, (literally, my memory is telling me it was more than 100 miles, don't remember exactly). I walked into the gas station and asked the attendant, 'hey, is there any cheaper gas around here?'
He looked around nervously and made sure his boss wasn't around. "Can you go 21 miles?"
"21 miles?"
"21 miles down you can make it to the next town over the border, and it's like a dollar cheaper there."
"Appreciate that."
Got a little gas just to make sure I could make it there, and drove over the border to fill up. Crazy. Cheapest gas, by the way, was small town Texas. I found a few places with gas for $3.02.
(http://imageshack.us/a/img35/7759/pb220012k.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img39/9851/pb180008b.jpg)
At that cheaper gas station... Obviously dressed for function, not style, haha: (http://imageshack.us/a/img39/1461/pb220013s.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img94/6300/pb220014g.jpg)
It was a long ride out there, but I finally made it to the Grand Canyon... I had already gone through two waves of sleepiness that almost pushed me to stop and pull over, but I powered through and hit my 2nd wind.
(http://imageshack.us/a/img443/1933/pb220022x.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img829/7932/pb220023.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img407/5671/pb220024b.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img248/4223/pb220025.jpg)
I stopped for pictures once more that day. Had a lot more I wanted to, but I had a lot of miles to cover, and every stop hurts.
(http://imageshack.us/a/img543/5245/pb220016.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img715/8967/pb220017.jpg)
Thought it was pretty cool to drive through during their centennial, so I wanted a picture with the sign while it was up during the year.
Here's the whole trip... Route starts from LA: http://goo.gl/maps/8dEJf (http://goo.gl/maps/8dEJf)
Driving all day wasn't very eventful, except to note that I was driving FAST. These roads out in the middle of nowhere, with almost an hour between towns... Not much enforcement in backwoods Arizona. My speedometer is shot, but not completely, and based on seat-of-pants feel and comparison with the rest of traffic and the best I can make of my screwy speedo, I think I cruised at 110mph for a pretty sizable chunk of the trip in AZ and NM. I left at 6:57AM (Monkey's wife saw me off, but she was more interested in making me coffee than helping me rush out the door, and I couldn't quite bear to rush her, as she and a neighbor were going to be my witnesses, haha), and by the time I had gotten back to flagstaff from the Grand Canyon, it was getting dark.
And then, true to Movenon's words, it got cold. DAMN cold. Not quite as cold as Oregon, but not by much... I was at 5000 and 6000 feet for most of the night, and I felt every bit of the cold. The one advantage of the cold was that it did help keep me awake. I was exhausted, but on the fritz, so my focus was spent on trying to keep feeling in my legs and hands.
I had stopped more often than anticipated, but had sped more than anticipated, so I ended up arriving in Albuquerque a little ahead of schedule, around 10PM. I found my couchsurfing host (can't believe I got a host with only a 2 day in advance notice for Thanksgiving night). He was a guy in his 40's who had done a fair amount of traveling and had recently started art school and had a lot of stuff he was working on in his living room. It was a small duplex in a backalley that felt like an oven inside--I got the impression that it was always on and the only control he had was to open the door to cool down. It was humble, but the guy was very kind. I felt bad, but while he obviously had wanted to talk some, he knew from my couch request that I was in a huge timecrunch and wouldn't be able to talk at all. After about 30 minutes, he got the hint as I was laying on the futon with the blankets up and starting to want to doze off. 5.5 hours later, at 4am LA time, I woke up. By 4:30, I was packed up and back on the road. These hours of sleep were actually restful.
I had pulled off somewhere in the low 900's upon arrival to albuquerque as far as mileage, but hadn't followed my exact route yesterday, and so wasn't sure. I still had between 2 and 2 and a half hours to finish my SaddleSore 1000. The sun had not yet risen, though the horizon was a beautiful dark blue with a light blue rim. It was cold. Real cold. At the Grand Canyon, I had filled up my big aquafina bottle (empty) with water from a tap that had spring water from the Grand Canyon. That bottle was strapped by a bungee cord right behind me, in such a way that the wind was hitting it. Well, when I pulled over after 1.5 hours or so of driving, there was ice forming in the bottle. THAT cold. I took a little video of it just to prove it.
Why was I pulled over taking a video? My odometer showed I had passed 1000 miles, but they mention on their website that odometers can be off by as much as 4% sometimes (40 miles indicated per 1000 miles real travel)... So I had driven to about 1050, and at this point was just looking for the next gas station, and I was about an hour ahead of schedule all together. Then...
Bam. Fuel starvation. What? I filled up just before I got to my host's house in Albuquerque, and it had been like 100-120 miles on the odometer! Did I not actually fill it up? Did gas leak somehow overnight? Crap. I coast over. There's nothing around. Dawn is just about to break; it's 5:35AM. I start pushing the bike up the moderate incline. As a testament to how cold it was, even with my heated jacket (unplugged while off bike), covered by leather jacket, covered by rain shell, pushing the bike with luggage up a hill, I wasn't exactly breaking a sweat... I was definitely seeing the condensation from my breath, though. I push, then stop and rest and try and flag down help, then push, then try and flag down help. Finally, after about 20 minutes of that, a trucker stops, bless him. I explain that I seem to have run out of gas; he doesn't have a jerrycan, but says he can give me a lift to the next gas station, and then I can get a lift from someone else back to the bike. I say, hey, I can just take off my gas tank and bring it with me, fill it up at the station, and bring it back, so I don't have to buy a jerry can. He says sure, and starts to wait.
I go back to the bike, bring it off the shoulder into the grass, and start disassembling it. As I go to lift it, I realize, wait a second--there's definitely still gas in here. I open it--plenty of gas. I run over and apologize for wasting his time, shake his hand and thank him, and run back to the bike to diagnose. Flipping the kill switch back and forth hadn't worked earlier, which was the first thing I had done--it was cranking, but not firing. So I pull a plug and check for spark--not the strongest spark (still need to get new spark plugs... These may well be 10 years old) but spark nonetheless. I put the plug back in.
And something occurs to me. While I was at Monkey's, he had shown me something about the petcock. He mentioned that when he got a new 84/85 style petcock, he had tested the vacuum seal, and realized that a proper vacuum petcock doesn't require a steady suction to work, but just seals with a 'thunk' when you suck on it, and remains open as long as the pressure is held. Mine didn't do that, and neither did his when he finally replaced it. He said that mine was on the way to failing--could be days, could be months, could be years, no one knows--and that when it did, it would show fuel starvation symptoms. I give my petcock a suck and realize that the flow does seem a bit more hesitant, a bit weaker than before. I was cruising on these deserted roads at 4 and 5 am at 110mph or so, and remembered having really leaned back on the throttle there at the end before it sputtered and died. Maybe that was it. I put it all back together and decide to 'prime' it by just sitting on the starter button for a while.
After a few tries, it barely stumbles to life and idles at what sounds like 400 or 500 rpm. Still, remembering from my reading on the forum about how the boost/vacuum advance unit worked, I had learned that when one cuts the throttle, the vacuum goes up (and the boost unit interprets that as a need to spark a bit earlier to kill the extra rich mixture resulting from less air). Knowing that, I left the bike idling off throttle for a while, so as to let the bowls fill up easier and keep the petcock a little more open, while I repack and put the back fully back together. By the time I'm done, I take off, and am ready to go.
I start flying again, but this time not pushing it above 90/95 or so (estimate, again, as speedo doesn't work... I think it might be giving me the howl of doom, by the way). Finally, having taken off at around 6:10 and having driven another 20 minutes or so, I make it to a gas station that's open. I pull in and fill up, some Shell. I fill up and get my receipt.
1000+ miles in 24 hours. I fill out my log. An old guy with a broom walks out, sweeping before he opens shop. I tell him what I have just done. Tells me it's risky. Asks where I came from, where I'm going. Asks if I saw the Grand Canyon. I say I did, and ask if he's been. Oh, he's been, loves it, would like to go again one more time he says. Talk for a minute while I fill up and put stuff back together. He tells me I'll enjoy this one day when I get to look back on it.
Me at the gas station, attendant in question taking the picture:
(http://imageshack.us/a/img4/4968/pb230029f.jpg)
And I take off--500 miles in the next 12 hours to go. At the 12 hour mark yesterday, I had done an indicated 800 miles (so probably more like a true 775 or so, but I'll take it). Today, though, most of my miles will be in Texas... And I'm a little more nervous about speeding in Texas.
I start getting sleepy after this, a couple more hours into driving. Hungry, too. I finally pull over somewhere, and am told that I'm 18 miles from the Texas border. Figuring I've been making good time and that I'm exhaust, I take it slow, pull out all my food, and munch on various things. Ask the gas station attendant a couple questions, what's the high today? She doesn't know, but she does know that it hit freezing last night for the first time--and that's here, where the elevation is lower than where I was driving all through the night... Explains my water bottle, when wind chill is taken into account... What's the high lately? High sixties, low seventies. Elevation? She doesn't know. She doesn't seem very interested or interesting, and isn't keen on conversation so I mostly leave her alone and munch. Probably take a little too long there, but it worked out in the end, yeah? Get back on the road, and another 30 minutes, I feel tired again. I cross the border into Texas. Tired.
In Texas, the driving changes. The speed limits are higher--Texas has the 3rd highest speed limits in the world!--but after I get off I-40 and start heading down 287 from Amarillo, I'm constantly hitting small towns set up as speed traps. It's nerve wracking. I see several cops in my first 200 miles in Texas, and several cops throughout Texas. I keep feeling like I want to fall asleep at the controls for what seems like forever, barely holding myself together... It's warming up, and I'm at lower elevation now. To help keep me focused, I leave the heated jacket on high heat, even though it is getting really hot. I found out later, once I had arrived, that I actually was burning my arm during this period. I have red marks that lasted a full day after I took off the jacket, mild burns from the sleeve wires being on almost direct contact with my skin. (Because I wear short sleeved shirts underneath, my arms always feel warmer in the jacket than my torso, since there's no cloth between my arms and the jacket like my torso has.)
Eventually I hit another wind and power on. Texas was the longest part, because it seems like I'm so close--it's the last leg of the trip, and it's in the same state!--but it just keeps on going. Also, all the low speed driving in the towns, and not being able to speed as much for fear of worse repercussions and fear or more enforcement... Plus, even on areas I feel like I could fly, I have the potential fuel starvation issue.
Which I confirmed. A couple stretches, when I hit it, I got the bike to start starving. Once, almost just to test it, I got the full issue--high speeds, enough to start emptying the bowls faster than a weak vacuum petcock could supply it, for a minute or two, and the bike started stuttering. This time I chopped the throttle and pulled in the clutch, started coasting on the shoulder. Shifted down to third as I slowed. Popped the clutch but kept the throttle closed. Rolled, still not biting. Pulled in clutch some more. Rolled. Released clutch, throttle still closed. Downshift to second. Stuttering! bike starts coming back a bit! Keep the throttle closed. Pull in clutch. Idling. Rolling real slow. Idle starts to pick up. 20 more seconds and I take off in second, and the bike is fine.
A couple more times in the day I jumped up to high speeds for a 30 second burst or so, passing traffic and such on two lane roads--always made sure to pull it back to 85 for a while and let the bowls refill a bit and I didn't seem to have any trouble, though I did feel like I might be on the edge once or twice.
I end up missing a turn (supposed to hit 82 east--82 east and 287 south are the same road for a while, then 82 turns off. I must have missed it.) I have a feeling that something isn't right, though, and pull over for gas a little earlier than I need to to check things. I pull out my Nexus and check on the GPS--sure enough, knowing that I am supposed to pass through Paris, TX, I realize I must have missed the turn. I don't have internet, so my map is a very basic one that the maps app happened to cache last time I was online and had wifi, but I figure I must need to keep heading south to Decatur and take 308 south. The guy at the gas station agrees, and I head that way.
And that's it. Nothing notable happened until I was about 80 miles from my uncle's. I'm in the final stretch, on schedule but not as much ahead of schedule as I would like, and I've hit the part of 308 that is a bunch of stoplights. I end up coming up on two Harleys, modern ones that have obviously had the factory or some such do some engine and cosmetic upgrade work--louder exhaust that sounds a bit meaner than the average harley. Two guys driving are older, leathered up. One of them has his SO on the back, just a half helmet on top. I amiably cruise around behind them, then next to them--traffic is moving steady, but cars are packed enough around us that there's no flying ahead without risking a serious violation, and we're basically in a township, so that would be really unwise even if you wanted to. But we end up coming to a stop next to each other. They seem to be avoiding my gaze, playing cool, and I'm driving some Jap Crotchrocket as best they can tell, even if I do have luggage. They talk to each other and ignore me. When it turns green, they blast off ahead, like they expected me to try and show them up and race off. I'm caught off guard. Funny.
We end up coming to a second light a bit later. I tap the throttle, not hard, twice, to give them enough of a hint that I *might* be thinking about taking off quick, and then speed up quickly, but not full speed. They both fly ahead, roaring. I start grinning. This will be fun...
When we're getting to the edge of the stoplight area, obviously a lot less populated, after a while where it looked like we wouldn't get our chance, we end up coming next to each other on a third stoplight. This time, I pull back the throttle all the way. They didn't have a chance. Nervous--I really don't want to worry about a ticket for racing--I let off the throttle after about 4 seconds when I'm obviously clearly in the lead. The guy with his wife on the bike is still pulling hard and then starts to passing me, but has misjudged, and has to all but slam his brakes to keep from hitting an SUV in front of him that's just up front and right from me. I smirk to myself... I pull ahead quickly and get in front of the SUV so they have room to pass around. They do, and his buddy gives me the finger as they do so. They turn right at the next light, and I'm back alone again.
Another hour and I made it. My cousin was just getting off work. I follow him to my uncle's (his dad's) house, and I have them check the odometer. I am about an hour early, and on the odometer I show something like 1800 total miles--google maps says 1649.
And there you go. That's how it's done. Lots of video to edit, will be working on that at some point in the next few days.
Oh yeah. My original reason--Thanksgiving Saturday--ended up all being for naught. My mom called me the night before take-off and said that stuff had come up, and so she needed to reschedule for sometime next week. Ha. Such is life. So I'm hanging out here in East Texas for a few days, catching up on sleep, catching up with family, playing with my younger cousins, catching up on typing... And hopefully, soon, catching up on video editing.
Thanks for reading, and thanks so much for the support. You guys were great encouragement to write this all down, and I will be so glad that I wrote it later on in life--I'm sure if I have kids, they'll be grateful that there were people around asking me to write it all down so they can have it to read too.
Definitely hoping to make it out to Cali next summer. We'll see what I can manage--if not this summer, then some summer soon!
Kookaloo!
Kyle
PS--HAHAHA! I almost just lost everything I typed because of the silly default login that's 60 minutes... I think I would have just about cried, I've been writing this for a couple hours now and I'm about to fall asleep at the keyboard.
Wow Kyle. Congratulations. You are infectious. :good: Hope the next Doco is Down Under. Doug
Great story Kyle, I wish more people would put up their stories. I have done over 20,000 kms in 23 days on one ride from Canada to Panama and a circle tour of all the borders and coasts of Mexico thrown in as well, as well as Baja California. I started on that trip with my newly bought 93 FJ1200 without test driving more than half a kilometer. Damn, FJs are good bikes. Have always loved the satisfaction received from doing those long runs. Crossed Canada many times, once on a 750 Seca and 9 times on an FJ1100. The truly dedicated FJ riders seem to be a very hardy bunch of guys who enjoy all aspects of bike riding. When I talk to my friends about making the changes that we make to our bikes, they just really don´t get it. Almost all are quite content to just buy a bike and shine it up and drive it once in awhile. To be honest, I don´t think it has ever entered their minds that it is possible to make a great bike even better. Down here in Panama, the first thing everybody asks about my bike is how much it costs. I have been putting some money and time into the bike lately, (New carbs, fuel pump, rims & brake swaps) and sometimes it seems to be a lot of money to invest in a 20 year old bike but I honestly cannot think of a new bike that I would prefer to drive more often. When I go to bike events here in latin america, there is always a crowd near my bike, even when there is new FJRs there. It could be because they know the bike has gone further and been more places than almost all of them. I haven´t yet met anyone here who has driven up to Canada or even the States yet. Maybe soon. Anyway, congratulations on meeting your goals, it is quite an accomplishment, keep it up!!
Glad you made it Kyle, even an FJ with issues can take you the distance. Good thing we checked the petcock when we synced your carbs. By simply knowing what the issue was, you modified your riding style and kept on schedule. Well done.
You did great ! Get some rest. When it's time, fix the minor issues on the FJ. There are a lot of places out West to see and visit. Hope you can come back when you have more time and during better weather. There are AM/PM's in Washington, Oregon, California, Nevada and Arizona. Fuel prices looked fairly high from your photo's but when you are on the road that's the way it is. They know you don't have time or know where to go for a better price. Locally here fuel is 3.50 - 3.85 a gal.. I have a station close by that sells non alcohol laced fuel. Good old plain gas. That's what I try to run in the FJ when I can. For sure its in the tank during the the winter here.
We have been down the same route as you went many times as motorcyclist and in the RV. Normally we spend the winter's in Yuma, AZ but this year due to family events we will stay put here for the winter. Going to miss the warm sunny days and an occasional trip to the "In and Out".......
A comment on your interface with the RV for fuel in one of your posts. Most, if not all RV'ers are armed when "boondocking" (parked in a remote location with no services often by themselves) they are informed/taught/learned to not open there door or leave there unit in the middle of the night when someone is outside beating on there door. It is a security issue for them. They will most likely ignore you, offer yelling through a window to call 911 for you or inform you that they are armed and to "please" leave the area while they are calling the cops. You have to put yourself in there shoes, inside there RV they have some control, once they open there door and step out in the middle of the night they loose the high ground so to speak and can't cover there back or side's well. A couple were robbed a killed in Canada and also in Oregon within the last few years by getting out of there RV in the middle of the night and being overwhelmed. The guy knocking on the door is just a distraction, you don't see the others off to the side or in the shadows waiting for you to expose yourself. The RVer's inside armed with a pistol or pistol's and a pump 12 gauge riot shot gun and cell phone have input to events. Like one said "they might be in a box end canyon, but there's going to be noise, light and casualties".
Back to motorcycling. I am glad you did not hit any snow or ice between Flagstaff ABQ and into Amarillo. That's a lonesome stretch of road at night. Got few stories about that area and South down to Roswell and into Pecos's, TX.. Probably good for you but sad to see your trip at an end :)) It's been a good read. Now what the hell are we going to stir up for the rest of the winter......
Well done mate, glad you made it home,, now you know why we love Fj,s ,, bet you glad she has a corbin :good2:
Great ADVENTURE!
Anything on TV pales in comparison!
KOokaloo!
Frank
Thanks for the great story Kyle, who's next? I loved reading this one so much.....
Glad you made it. Looking forward to reading about your next adventure. :good2:
Kyle, yours was an awesome adventure and proof of the strengths and general ease of maintenance of our bikes. For you to receive a bike sight unseen with electrical and fuel issues, ride it around 2000 miles with minor hiccups is a testement of the greatness of the FJ and the people that own them. My hat is off to you. :hi: :hi: :hi: :drinks:
Fred
Wind Chill: 1000 miles in the cold (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pUCQP3V3E88#ws)
Finally uploaded a video. Probably will put some other ones up soon and add them here as well. This one just stood out, though.
Better late than never:
(http://img809.imageshack.us/img809/2369/2g8n.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/809/2g8n.jpg/)
Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us)
Took 6 months (Didn't have enough money to mail in and get the process started until January) to get the verification process done, because I didn't perfectly comply with all procedures during the ride. (Supposed to start from a gas station; I filled up the night before and just got signatures for my start, since I didn't want to have to push start in the morning and then re-push start right after a gas station) (Also they wanted a copy of my grand canyon receipt to verify that extra 60 miles two ways veer-off up to the canyon rim).
Notice the license plate back I just installed with the built in tool kit.
Special thanks to Mr. Bean and Monkey, and everyone on this forum whose advice helped make this trip happen. Without Mark's advice on the petcock in LA, I almost certainly wouldn't have made my 1000 in 24!
I am holding my two certificates, one for the 1000 miles in 24 hours (which I did almost on the nose--900 or so in one run, a four hour nap in albuquerque, and then filming the video in my last post after taking off at 4AM), the other certificate for 1500 in 36 (I actually did 1660 in 35!).
They read:
QuoteThis is to Certify that on the 22nd of November, 2012, L. Kyle Baker rode a 1986 Yamaha FJ1200 a total of 1,022 grueling miles in less than twenty-four hours starting in Los Angeles, California continuing on to Kingman, Arizona, Grand Canyon National Park and Albuquerque, New Mexico before ending in Santa Rosa, New Mexico while participating in the SaddleSore 1000.
QuoteThis is to Certify that in November of 2012, L. Kyle Baker rode a 1986 Yamaha FJ1200 a total of 1,660 grueling miles in less than thirty-six hours starting in Los Angeles, California continuing across the Mojave Desert and the south rim of Grand Canyon National Park, across Arizona and New Mexico before ending in Mount Pleasant, Texas while participating in the Bun Burner 1500.
You still running those plates.....? :lol: :lol: :lol: Can't get away with shit.....
George
Haha, tell me about it. Pain in the ass, lost the original title on the way down, long infuriating story. I'm about to call up the PO any day now and offer to send him $100 to go get a replacement title. In WA they have privatized their DMV's, so now they can exploit you and are even worse than goverment run offices--zero accountability, zero competition.
In Texas, getting a replacement title is 5 bucks, 5 minute, print on the spot affair. In WA it takes a notarized form and either 20 dollars and 6-8 weeks, or $80 and 4-5 days. :shok:
If he doesn't want to do it, it'll be $300 for a bonded title here in Texas. :shout:
:mad:
The tags *just* went out, and it's not like cops are checking the dates on a washington motorcycle plate really closely. I imagine for the most part they just don't bother me because they assume I'm an out-of-towner or something, I dunno. No problems yet, though.
Quote from: fintip on July 24, 2013, 02:40:12 AM
Haha, tell me about it. Pain in the ass, lost the original title on the way down, long infuriating story. I'm about to call up the PO any day now and offer to send him $100 to go get a replacement title. In WA they have privatized their DMV's, so now they can exploit you and are even worse than goverment run offices--zero accountability, zero competition.
In Texas, getting a replacement title is 5 bucks, 5 minute, print on the spot affair. In WA it takes a notarized form and either 20 dollars and 6-8 weeks, or $80 and 4-5 days. :shok:
If he doesn't want to do it, it'll be $300 for a bonded title here in Texas. :shout:
:mad:
The tags *just* went out, and it's not like cops are checking the dates on a washington motorcycle plate really closely. I imagine for the most part they just don't bother me because they assume I'm an out-of-towner or something, I dunno. No problems yet, though.
Hope the PO will help you out there. He should anyhow. If not then the Texas deal might be what you have to do. Do some research, different states have different procedures for getting a title. I would pay attention to it before you get stopped again. They probably won't stop you because of your plates, it will happen because you got stopped for some other perceived or real traffic infraction. Or someone else damages you.
Congrat's on the certificates ! You earned them. :good2:
George