Hi guys,
My '93 has gone and dropped a cylinder on me, with a carb pissing out fuel from the overflow. So it's time to pull the carbs apart using the very helpful files section - thank you to all contributers, awesome work..
My question is, we have an ultrasonic parts cleaner at work and I'm wondering are there any parts from the carbs I SHOULDN'T run through it? Maybe the floats, but I shoudn't need to be that extreme with them, I'm thinking more along the lines of the major components, carb bodies and jets etc. I can't imagine there being any issues but I'm sure wiser heads might know..
Cheers in advance,
James
The following link provides an excellent overview of this process. It was written by Mike Nixon who is considered to be a master mechanic in the Honda CBX community. IMHO this is a good starting point for this discussion. Rich
http://www.motorcycleproject.com/motorcycle/text/ultrasonic_carburetor_cleaning_v7.swf (http://www.motorcycleproject.com/motorcycle/text/ultrasonic_carburetor_cleaning_v7.swf)
That's a really good ditty on ultrasonic cleaning.
Thanks
Dan
Agreed, thank's Rich. Would you mind if copied this over to our files section?
Quote from: Rich Pleines on July 16, 2012, 08:10:53 AM
The following link provides an excellent overview of this process. It was written by Mike Nixon who is considered to be a master mechanic in the Honda CBX community. IMHO this is a good starting point for this discussion. Rich
http://www.motorcycleproject.com/motorcycle/text/ultrasonic_carburetor_cleaning_v7.swf (http://www.motorcycleproject.com/motorcycle/text/ultrasonic_carburetor_cleaning_v7.swf)
That's awesome Rich, thanks. looks like I'm good to go once I dismantle the carbs - our unit is smack in the middle of his reccomendations for carb cleaning.
Just one thing - the slides in that link kept getting to slide 21 then resetting to 3 in a continous cycle.. have I missed any later slides or is that it?
I did reload it a couple of times...
Cheers,
James
Quote from: Pat Conlon on July 16, 2012, 01:15:49 PM
Agreed, thank's Rich. Would you mind if copied this over to our files section?
I will ask the author and let you know. James, slide 21 is the end. When it jumps from 21 to 3 you can arrow back to slide 1 & 2. Thanks, Rich
It does not explicitly say whether the diaphragms can be put in an ultrasonic cleaner, seems as this may be problematic -anyone [Randy?] know whether this is the case?
Dan
Quote from: Pat Conlon on July 16, 2012, 01:15:49 PM
Would you mind if I copied this over to our files section?
The author might mind. We can ask, though.
Quote from the author: "Finally, the reason the articles are in Flash. It's simple. I'm tired of people stealing my material and reposting it on their sites as their own."
He has several other interesting articles on his site, also:
http://www.motorcycleproject.com/motorcycle/text/new_articles_menu.html (http://www.motorcycleproject.com/motorcycle/text/new_articles_menu.html)
look like great articles, bloody shame i cant read them on this t pad,,so much for smart phones :dash2:
Quote from: fj11.5 on July 17, 2012, 07:10:17 AM
...shame i cant read them on this t pad...
The site owner mentions using an alternate browser (Puffin) on the "I-???" devices :
http://www.motorcycleproject.com/motorcycle/text/flashtips.html (http://www.motorcycleproject.com/motorcycle/text/flashtips.html)
Quote from: Rich Pleines on July 16, 2012, 06:33:53 PM
Quote from: Pat Conlon on July 16, 2012, 01:15:49 PM
Agreed, thank's Rich. Would you mind if copied this over to our files section?
I will ask the author and let you know. James, slide 21 is the end. When it jumps from 21 to 3 you can arrow back to slide 1 & 2. Thanks, Rich
This was the response I received from Mike. I think this is what Pat was planning anyway.
"Thank you for the kind comments, and for promoting the article. Tell you, the best practice on Internet sites is to link to a desired content on another site, not to simply copy it, and that is what I desire. The very reason I put the article in a Flash format was to slow down the copying of my material. There is a lot of that happening, not to be bragging, just a fact. If it were the other way around, me wanting to point to some content, I would put a link and a summary or some comments next to the link. Please pass this on and encourage the webmaster to do this, link with comments or description. Thanks!"He also included the following on Ultrasonic cleaning.
"
There are only a couple of caveats re ultrasonic cleaning. First, you need enough power. That is discussed in the article. Two, you can use any solution you want, but PineSol is worthless and flammable, so it isn't very wise (one of the forum "experts" promotes this), and Simple Green is if possible even worse due to its very high PH. I read recently someone is using Simple Green full-strength! Ahg! I hope I never have to work on those carbs! The white fuzz is unstoppable even at a 25/75 SG/water mix, I can't even imagine what straight would do! I have tried Simple Green, the only way if you have to use it is to add vinegar to lower the PH. But why bother? Distilled water with a couple drops of liquid dish soap per 5 gallon of water is all you need. Seriously. Third, tank times must be watched closely, for two reasons. 30 and 40 year old carbs [CBX] have almost no cad and zinc plating left on their steel steady brackets. And early (pre-78) carbs are made of an alloy that reacts badly to any kind of tank cleaning, so care must be taken they dont oxidize or errode while being tanked."
Quote from: Dan Filetti on July 17, 2012, 01:50:07 AM
It does not explicitly say whether the diaphragms can be put in an ultrasonic cleaner, seems as this may be problematic -anyone [Randy?] know whether this is the case?
Dan
I do not clean the slides in my ultrasonic cleaner, I do not want to chance damaging the coating or rubber. No on the floats as well.
I have not yet read the article, but I can tell you that I have seen several carbs come through my hands that are grey and corroding due to the use of the improper cleaning agents.
I buy a cleaning agent from an ultrasonic manufacture for non-ferrous metals. I can tell you it eats the zinc coating from the steel, (like mentioned in Rich's last post) but it does a great job or cleaning & brightening the aluminum. It is over $60.00 a gallon, but it is the correct product to care for the carbs I am working on.
I know when 99% of the customers get their carbs back from me, the first thing they notice is how clean they are, and that clean is not only on the outside but the inside as well.
Randy - RPM
Quote from: fj11.5 on July 17, 2012, 07:10:17 AM
look like great articles, bloody shame i cant read them on this t pad,,so much for smart phones :dash2:
Actually, take a look at the menu page, as it explains how you can get the Flash files to run. If yours is an Android, it should work. If an iPhone or iPad, then download the free Puffin browser, which remote-runs Flash.
Mike Nixon
Quote from: Dan Filetti on July 17, 2012, 01:50:07 AM
It does not explicitly say whether the diaphragms can be put in an ultrasonic cleaner, seems as this may be problematic -anyone [Randy?] know whether this is the case?
Dan
I clean rubber diaphragms in my ultrasonic tank, but I am careful to watch the time closely, usually no longer than 15 minutes.
I hope you dont mind that my first three posts are about business, in a way. I know better, but saw questions needing answers. Although the article goes into the metal vs plastic question in depth, all plastic is safe. The rubber diaphragms are generally safe because ultrasonic waves bounce off them instead of clashing with them (which is why there are no ultrasonic washing machines), greatly diminishing the waves' effect. So ultrasonic is very gentle on the diaphragms. All the same, I watch the time closely on the slides. As for plating, even traditional chemical dip will slough off very oxidized plating, so yes, an ultrasonic will remove plating if you are not careful, and if the plating is in very bad shape. Even plating in good shape, I run at reduced times or power levels just to make sure. I have done many 40 year old and older virtually irreplacable carbs with beautiful as-manufactured plating, with no ill results. I'll link to some pix when I get a moment. Not trying to sell you guys, just helping inform and prevent misinformation. :-).
Depends on the solvent. An ultrasonic can be run with mild dish soap for the solvent, and that won't hurt a healthy rubber item. Stronger solvents could.
Quote from: andyb on July 17, 2012, 11:19:39 AM
Depends on the solvent. An ultrasonic can be run with mild dish soap for the solvent, and that won't hurt a healthy rubber item. Stronger solvents could.
Ah, no. Any solvent that would hurt a rubber diaphragm would never be used in an ultrasonic as the ultrasonic waves could ignite it. Besides, the thrust of the comment was on the ultrasonic action, not the solution used.
Just an update - I've pulled down 2 carbs now, the problem one first, and found the emulsion tube - the one that the needle goes into and has all the tiny holes in it was surrounded by crud and junk at one end, lots of rust looks like, so hopefully a good clean of the carbs and tank will sort this out. However, under the diaphram of the carb next door I found a curled up peice of aluminium swarf.. Bit of a worry really. I do work in an engineering shop, so I'm always covered in the damn stuff but the only thing I've done to the carbs is take the airbox off and put on pods so unless when I did that a the little bugger fell out of my hair or something then got sucked up into the air passage to under the diaphram, I don't know how it got there.. Unless it's been there since it was last assembled.. Not nice to think maybe some more went thru the motor, but I guess it still runs fine, and if I had to choose any kind of swarf to go thru a motor, ali would probably be a preferable option to the tool steel I usually work with.. D2 or H13 or P20 swarf would eat a valve seat for breakfast.. Yikes..
heres a rather shitty cellphone pic of the swarf in place in the carb body.. you can just see the curl of it sitting in the bottom of the carb next to where the slide goes.. that's the 3 little lines you see, the outside of the swarf curl.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/3/517_18_07_12_3_08_22.jpeg)
It did look like rather low quality ali, it was pretty dull, like free-cutting ali rather than the avaiation and marine grades we usually cut.. Wonder how long it's been there..
The next issue and back to my original topic is the ultrasonic we have is set up for mainly steel parts and the fluid it has in it I'm not sure is suitable for ali parts. here's the link to the stuff we use http://www.techspanonline.com/Default.aspx?TabID=44223&TabIDOrig=44221&ProductID=7976&categoryid=2053&langID=0&CurrPage=1&Search=&SearchCurrPage=1 (http://www.techspanonline.com/Default.aspx?TabID=44223&TabIDOrig=44221&ProductID=7976&categoryid=2053&langID=0&CurrPage=1&Search=&SearchCurrPage=1)
it's the part that says "Techkleen ultrasonic cleaning solution 5 litre bottle - Aqueous (water based) concentrate. Ideal for cleaning - Heavy duty degreasing, Brightening steel, Etching aluminium
Note: not suitable for 'white metals'
Dillution -
1:7 light cleaning, 1:4 heavy cleaning
Temperature range -
70 - 80 deg C
Removes the following type of contamination -
Oil
Grease
Carbon deposits
Fats
Light rust
Paint & Ink
Varnish
Etching aluminium worries me.. I'm thinking I'll be leaving parts in there for shorter periods. Changing the fluid is not an option unfortunately as it's a work toy, not my own.
So again, another update...
All 4 are apart now, looks like for some reason only the (as you look at motor form riding postion) LH 2 carbs were dirty, as you went left to right along the carbs they got progressively cleaner. Mainly rust and particles in the emulsion tube and float bowls, the carb bodies inside are clean enough to eat out of. I wonder if it's because the bike spends so much time on the side stand, all the crap ends up falling down that way?
Anyway, judt to get some opinions, here's what I found inside, forgive me if I get some of terminlogy wrong, hit me up and I'll happily try to expalin..
So she's a '92 with unknown brand of 4-1 headers, and a stock muffler from 2007 CB1300. 95% of my riding is done within 1000ft of sea level, in temps from 10C to 30C. She's got 4 single pod filters fitted.
Never had performance/starting/idle issues before this dirty carb.
Inside the carbs I found
Idles screws 2.5 out
A jet with 110 on it
Another jet with a 42.5 on it
Another jet with a 115 on it
Needles had 5 grooves, circlip was in the middle, 3 from bottom, 3 from top.
I've looked around and everyone seems to have differing ideas on what to run, I'm guessing as the bike ran pretty well it can't be too far off the mark...
Thoughts anyone?
Randy is kindly supplying me the s/s screw kit and o'rings but I think luckily that's all I need...
On a sadder note our ultrasonic fluid is death to ali so it's back to the old parts cleaner for me.. grumble grumble. I ran a float bowl thru it and it came out very clean but then it took me another half hour to clean the black oxidisation off the ali.. Not going to chance putting the bodies thru.
Quote from: tmkaos on July 21, 2012, 07:53:34 PM
Another jet with a 115 on it
Sorry my bad.. 155 that should be... :good2:
Those are all stock jets.
Do the needles have a number stamped into them below the bottom groove?
Randy - RPM
Yes - 5FZ74 with a little symbol before that that is the same on all the other jets
Except for the 42.5 idle jet, those are all stock components. You should bump the main jet up and shim the needles.
DavidR.
Quote from: SlowOldGuy on July 22, 2012, 08:36:24 AM
Except for the 42.5 idle jet, those are all stock components. You should bump the main jet up and shim the needles.
DavidR.
Actually, the 42.5 pilots were standard on international models...none of the US "emissions" requirements.
Quote from: tmkaos on July 21, 2012, 10:38:24 PM
Yes - 5FZ74 with a little symbol before that that is the same on all the other jets
I recommend going up to 115-117.5, raise the needle one notch and open up the mixture screws to blip test perfection.
Randy - RPM
what year did they start using the 42.5,s , all the 1100 ,and 1200,s up to 89 that ive delved into only had the 37.5,s pilots ,and 112.5 mains , could explain why mine had po bored out mains and every carb has had some boofhead chew out the pilots screw head trying to find out what was in it, :dash2: the manuals should be clearer on some things :scratch_one-s_head: , , if you ever get bored randy , thats something you should wright, a manual with all your tips and tricks, and decent explanation of all thigs fj that others dont do :good2:
Quote from: racerrad8 on July 22, 2012, 10:22:51 AM
I recommend going up to 115-117.5, raise the needle one notch and open up the mixture screws to blip test perfection.
Randy - RPM
Thank you Randy - I'll do that. Just to be crystal clear - raising the needle is moving up one notch INTO the slide, AWAY from the carb body and jet, correct? So I will place the circlip in a lower position towards the tip of the needle?
Randy i think you have probably operated with your customary efficiency and have allready shipped my screw set, silly me for not checking this first.. :dash1:
Oh well, what's 2 lots of shipping cost compared to more Kookaloo? Priceless... :good2:
Thank you for your replies, when she's back on the road I will let you all know how she roars... Probably be able to hear the YAHOO of delight all the way to the States from NZ...
Cheers, James
Lower the clip closer to the pointy end of the needle is how you want to adjust them.
Randy - RPM
Well the major work is out of the way on the carbs, all cleaned up, raised the needles by 1 groove, bigger main jets and new shiny stainless capscrews, orings etc courtesy of Randy. They even appear to hold pressure when you turn them upside down and blow into the fuel line so I must have done something right. :hi:
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/3/517_14_08_12_4_57_28.jpeg)
So now while everything is off I'm checking my valve clearances and will adjust if necessary, then it'l be time to synch and enjoy the fruits of my labour.. Speaking of labour in 6 weeks my daughter will arrive which means in 3 weeks we have to give my wife's company car back (farewell, fuel card, you served us well) and then we become a single car, single bike family. So that's my deadline, after that I'm either walking to work or riding a pushbike if I don't get her back on the road!
On the synch side of things I bought a Gunston Carb balancer as it was about 1/4 the price of the other units available. Although you can only synch 2 carbs at a time I don't see that as an issue as you synch the carbs in pairs anyway. Has anyone else used one of these on an FJ or shall i be the first? Any tips?
Cheers,
James
Okay so another update and a question for those tuning gurus out there..
Carbs are back on the bike with
117.5 mains, up from 110
Needles raised 1 groove, from middle of 5 available to 2nd from end,
155 air jet
42.5 pilots
Mixture screws 2.5 turns out
The rest - Individual filters, 4-1 headers and an '07 CB1300 muffler, 91 octane fuel.
Blip test is 100%, neither hangs nor stumbles. Balanced using a Gunson Balancer - not the most efficient of designs but with a little Kiwi ingenuity it worked.
She happily ticks away at 1000rpm idle.
Took her for a ride and I'm noticing a low end heisitation, under 3500rpm ish as you pour on power it seems to bog, doesnt cough or stumble but there is a definate hole in the power band there, then up from around 5000rpm it's all go to the redline.
This is a change from before when she was more even across the rev range - a smallish hole down low but not as bad as now.
I talked this over with some like minded individuals and they are of the opinion that with bigger jets and raised needles I am too rich in the low end... We wondering if our NZ 91 octane fuel, which is old-school style, no ethanol blend is a bit richer than what most of you State-side folks are running (88-90 octane ethanol blend?) and so the jetting recomendations might have made it too rich?
Any thoughts guys?
I've seen a high fuel level (rich condition) cause those exact same symptoms.
The 155 air jet is stock, what was in it before?
Since it's relatively easy to do, try leaning the needle position 1 or 2 grooves and see what the effect is. That will tell you which way to go.
DavidR.
Quote from: SlowOldGuy on August 21, 2012, 11:55:41 AM
I've seen a high fuel level (rich condition) cause those exact same symptoms.
The 155 air jet is stock, what was in it before?
Since it's relatively easy to do, try leaning the needle position 1 or 2 grooves and see what the effect is. That will tell you which way to go.
DavidR.
Hi David, thanks for replying..
The only changes I made were upsizing the main jets and raising the needles 1 groove, as per Randy's advise. And then obviously the balancing.. Every other part is stock. So just to clarify, "leaning" the needles would involve lowering them again?
And by a "high fuel level" do you mean the float levels? I must admit, I didn't check the height, I just made sure they were all the same, and as I didn't notice any issues prior to breaking down the carbs as others have described from having incorrect float heights I left them alone. That may have been an oversight.. :dash2:
Cheers,
James
Try leaning it 1/2 groove (yes, moving the needle back down leans it).
Move the clip UP one whole groove (which will drop the needle), but install a small washer under the clip that will pull the needle back UP 1/2 groove. The net position will be 1/2 groove leaner.
A washer approximately as thick as the groove will work nicely at giving 1/2 groove adjustment increments
Bottomline is you need to make a move in any direction to see if it get worse or better in order to know where to go from here. Bogging and stumbling can result from rich AND lean conditions. Change something simple (needles don't require removing the carb assembly) and go from there.
Good luck, report progress.
DavidR.
I've finally found the time to get back into the carbs (our first little girl is due in 3 weeks!) - after running her (the FJ) to work and back for a month or so now, the joke around work is to get a free ride home, follow James's bike and your car will run off the fumes coming out of his exhaust...
Anyway, so last night while I was doing some overtime I pulled out the slides and raised the needles back their original positions in the middle groove. I also went from 2.5 turns out on the idle mixture screws down to 2 out. Blip test is good, smells much better at idle, before the over-rich fumes were really bad. At low throttle settings when warm it seems happier, no more stumbles. It also seems to have lost the worst part of it's flat spot under 3500rpm. There's still a slight heisitation there but I understand a 4-1 exhaust has that characteristic.
I need to synch the carbs again now I've played with them, so that's happening tonight during some more overtime.
This has been an interesting excercise, and I'm wondering if there's a marked difference in the composition and performance of the fuel we use here in NZ compared to States, where the majority of advice on tuning has come from. It seems most people Stateside have reccommended I richen it up, when in reality it seems happier running leaner.
My state-of-tune measure includes an empty stretch of road leading away from an intersection that requires 1st gear. As I roll out of the intersection I snap onto WOT at a certain marker. If the bike is going well, it'l just pick up the front wheel by the tiniest amounts (I'm a heavy guy - no power wheelies for me). As I get 2nd there is a slight rise and again if the bike is on song it'l get very light on the front end over that. I'd say the bike is back to where it was before it got sick and I pulled the carbs to rebuild them, so I'm happy with that.
Be interesting to see as summer kicks in here how the fuel economy is now with bigger mains on longer rides - I have noticed commuting to work she's drinking a lot more, but now I've leaned it back out we'll see.
Anyway, I'll let you know how she goes with another synch.
Ride safe,
James
Quote from: tmkaos on September 24, 2012, 02:45:21 PM
It seems most people Stateside have reccommended I richen it up, when in reality it seems happier running leaner.
James
That's because most people don't know what they're talking about. See my previous post.
DavidR.
Quote from: tmkaos on September 24, 2012, 02:45:21 PM
This has been an interesting excercise, and I'm wondering if there's a marked difference in the composition and performance of the fuel we use here in NZ compared to States, where the majority of advice on tuning has come from. It seems most people Stateside have reccommended I richen it up, when in reality it seems happier running leaner.
There's a noticable variation in fuel in the US alone, both between states as well as between brands. A variation between continents would be unusual to not exist.
David's most likely correct. Don't worry much on the extreme bottom until the needles are working well. One thing at a time.
All tuning is a compromise, it's just a question of finding the spot where you're happy with how it runs.
Quote from: andyb on September 24, 2012, 06:00:13 PM
All tuning is a compromise, it's just a question of finding the spot where you're happy with how it runs.
You are both absolutely correct - the main issue I have is that without any other FJ's to ride with or have a go on I'm not comparing apples with apples, all I can really go off is seat of my pants, which is fine, but it'd just be nice to be able to say, "yes, my FJ is just as quick as his"
But I can't really complain, if I didn't have something to tinker with I'd get pretty damn bored! :good2:
I recommend you go leaner and do the 5 degree advance mod... I have had good results doing some individual fine tuning of pilot jets, do 1/4 turn in and out with blips to get each cyl right on. The advance just lifts a vail of fog from the whole experience.
Frank
Quote from: Flynt on September 24, 2012, 08:59:09 PM
and do the 5 degree advance mod... The advance just lifts a vail of fog from the whole experience.
Frank
I have been thinking abut this.. it's not like it's too hard to get to either, and I'm an engineer for crying out loud I don't really have any excuses. If I was to do it would i be advised to do another synch afterwards, or is it a set and forget type of mod? I'll have to visit the files section again.. Maybe I'll be doing more than a sych during overtime tonight...
Appreciate the input guys! :good2:
James
Quote from: tmkaos on September 24, 2012, 09:29:23 PM
I have been thinking abut this.. it's not like it's too hard to get to either, and I'm an engineer for crying out loud I don't really have any excuses. If I was to do it would i be advised to do another synch afterwards, or is it a set and forget type of mod? I'll have to visit the files section again.. Maybe I'll be doing more than a sych during overtime tonight...
Appreciate the input guys! :good2:
James
From one engineer type to another, the advance is ignition, if your carbs are balanced, then they are balanced the ignition is not a function of Sync.... Go for it, I will be doing the same 5 degree-ish advance. After I get my fuel delivery issue sorted.
Quote from: tmkaos on September 24, 2012, 09:29:23 PM
would i be advised to do another synch afterwards, or is it a set and forget type of mod?
Advance is set and forget, unless you ping of course... Balanced carbs is a given.
Frank
Where do you work? I want to get paid overtime for working on my FJ!
:-)
DavidR.
Quote from: SlowOldGuy on September 24, 2012, 10:23:02 PM
Where do you work? I want to get paid overtime for working on my FJ!
:-)
DavidR.
Yeah it's a pretty sweet deal..
When we do overtime it's til 7pm (7am start) and everyone else leaves at 4pm, even the bosses. As long as my CNC is running they don't really mind what we get up to. I built my suppressor for my .308 Remington that way, most of a circuit racer too, a few years ago. You've just gotta be doing a job that gives you enough time between checking dimensions and swapping out parts to do anything useful.
I'm making parts for superyacht deck winches tonight so I'll have the time.
Just on the original reason for me posting this thread, I didn't end up using our work ultrasonic to clean anything as the chemical mix we use is way corrosive to ali, but one of the apprentices saw me playing with it and thought it'd be a great way to clean up an antique stationary engine he'd bought to restore - he left it in for a hour, lost .3mm off the piston diameter and gained .4mm in the bore.. Doh... Oh well he's here to learn.. He learnt that lesson very well. To his credit though he figured out how to make a new piston and rebored the engine to suit..
James
So... Just to confirm my Gunson carb balancer is a bit shit to be honest. I couldn't justify the expense of a Morgan or similar but I guess you get what you pay for, don't you? Anyway, carbs are balanced to best of my and my balancer's ability.
Tried to do the ignition advance - would you believe, I run a $100,000 CNC machine, 1 of several in the shop, we have mills, we have lathes, we have gas torches, we have hammers, we have grinders both cylindrical and surface, we have everything a large engineering firm should - but do you think I could locate a damn impact screwdriver to get the covers off? :dash1:
So that's for another night. Just to confirm for those of you in the know, I want to slot the plate so it rotates CW as you look at it, correct? That is what I got from looking thru Andyb's guide to mods FAQ anyway..
Cheers, safe riding. I'm off to test if my tuning magic has made a difference!
Kookaloo!!!!
James
Quote from: tmkaos on September 25, 2012, 01:46:11 AM
So... Just to confirm my Gunson carb balancer is a bit shit to be honest. I couldn't justify the expense of a Morgan or similar but I guess you get what you pay for, don't you? Anyway, carbs are balanced to best of my and my balancer's ability.
Tried to do the ignition advance - would you believe, I run a $100,000 CNC machine, 1 of several in the shop, we have mills, we have lathes, we have gas torches, we have hammers, we have grinders both cylindrical and surface, we have everything a large engineering firm should - but do you think I could locate a damn impact screwdriver to get the covers off? :dash1:
So that's for another night. Just to confirm for those of you in the know, I want to slot the plate so it rotates CW as you look at it, correct? That is what I got from looking thru Andyb's guide to mods FAQ anyway..
Cheers, safe riding. I'm off to test if my tuning magic has made a difference!
Kookaloo!!!!
James
Correct. Than again, I'd take a mercury synch tool over vacuum gauges any day.
One of my local mechanic friends happened to post up this demo of his ultrasonic cleaning today:
Ultrasonic Cleaning (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uo15dZ52EIg#)
I think that's the first carb I've ever seen that looked better on the INSIDE than the outside.
DavidR.
Hi
I was trying to follow the links on this old thread but none of them work.
Is there any other links I could try ?
Try the files section on carbs http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?board=21.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?board=21.0)
Lots of really good stuff....
Quote from: FJools on January 10, 2017, 02:54:36 PM
Hi
I was trying to follow the links on this old thread but none of them work.
Is there any other links I could try ?
Had the same problem then I Found this FJools but I've checked and at present I cannot read some but maybe a phone isn't the correct way
http://www.motorcycleproject.com (http://www.motorcycleproject.com)
I've struggled to find what is the ideal temperature to set the cleaner at.....
Quote from: FJools on January 11, 2017, 07:40:13 PM
I've struggled to find what is the ideal temperature to set the cleaner at.....
I cooked mine in boiling water, so no worries. :-) Just strip them down.
Quote from: FJools on January 11, 2017, 07:40:13 PM
I've struggled to find what is the ideal temperature to set the cleaner at.....
I set mine to the highest temp setting!
Quote from: FJools on January 11, 2017, 07:40:13 PM
I've struggled to find what is the ideal temperature to set the cleaner at.....
FJools which cleaner did you get?
I'm looking at getting one
Cheers Alan
If your carbs are not indicating blockages and the cleaning is just a preventative measure while they are off the bike, clean them at home with the ultrasonic and compressed air. If they are blocked, take them to a carb/efi shop and have them done properly.
The only way to know they are clear is to reassemble and install them. Multiple removal/refits to clear blockages are common here. Sending them to somewhere that specialises in, and is equipped for such work is the only way to guarantee getting them clean first time.
Personally, I only want to do them once (actually, not even that many times)
A good mechanic knows enough to perform any task on any vehicle, he also knows enough to know when a job is better done by a specialist with the right equipment. Most of the work carb/efi shops do is from the trade for just that reason.
Quote from: fj1289 on January 12, 2017, 08:05:47 AM
Quote from: FJools on January 11, 2017, 07:40:13 PM
I've struggled to find what is the ideal temperature to set the cleaner at.....
I set mine to the highest temp setting!
I got a small one for Christmas and noticed while testing it that the water actually heats up after a few cycles. It's only got a 7min 30sec timer on it so wanting to give some rings and bracelets a good clean did about 6 or 7 cycles and noticed when finished the water was getting hot. It doesn't have a heater so the ultrasonic action itself must heat the water up.
Quote from: Bones on January 13, 2017, 02:40:42 AM
Quote from: fj1289 on January 12, 2017, 08:05:47 AM
Quote from: FJools on January 11, 2017, 07:40:13 PM
I've struggled to find what is the ideal temperature to set the cleaner at.....
I set mine to the highest temp setting!
I got a small one for Christmas and noticed while testing it that the water actually heats up after a few cycles. It's only got a 7min 30sec timer on it so wanting to give some rings and bracelets a good clean did about 6 or 7 cycles and noticed when finished the water was getting hot. It doesn't have a heater so the ultrasonic action itself must heat the water up.
Yep, confirmed. :dance2:
Quote from: Sparky84 on January 12, 2017, 05:29:52 PM
Quote from: FJools on January 11, 2017, 07:40:13 PM
I've struggled to find what is the ideal temperature to set the cleaner at.....
FJools which cleaner did you get?
I'm looking at getting one
Cheers Alan
Hi Alan,
I've been off line for a while.................
I can't remember off top of my head but its 5L - large enough for a single carb body. I also have 2.5L one which I bought first up but found not to be big enough physically but I still use it as well as I can pop the body in the big one and the other parts in the smaller one.
Obviously I didn't have access to a lot of this information before hand as I would have probably spent a lot more :rofl2: