and now my clutch is slipping.
I had already installed a new clutch spring and added the larger plate in the rear while removing the fine wire spring.
With the Yamalube I had in it at the time, the clutch worked great, now with this change of oil, it slips even worse than before working on the clutch! :dash1:
It's back to Yamalube for me.
Leon
Quote from: 1tinindian on April 21, 2012, 09:33:13 AM
and now my clutch is slipping.
I had already installed a new clutch spring and added the larger plate in the rear while removing the fine wire spring.
With the Yamalube I had in it at the time, the clutch worked great, now with this change of oil, it slips even worse than before working on the clutch! :dash1:
It's back to Yamalube for me.
Leon
When I switched to Amsoil full synth my clutch slipped as well but only at higher revs. I have less than 1K on the oil and the clutch seems normal again. Original, single, OEM (26+ years old) spring. Give it some time unless it is really bad. And if you do switch back, it may still slip till the synth oil is fully absorbed and your friction plates purge it out. They are like really slow absorbing sponges.
Reminds me of a famous quote....."You can not find your Kookaloo with a........."
I was cruising thru Wallymart and I saw 4 gallon containers of 10w40 Mobil One on sale.... I thought what the hell why not try it?
I put it in my '92 (still on 20w50 dino break in oil on the '84)
Yep, sure enough, the clutch started slipping at full load high rpm and the quality of tranny shifting was notchy. (no zinc in Mobile 1)
I'm gonna give it another couple of hundred miles and if things don't improve I'm going back to a motorcycle specific oil...oh well...
Quote from: FJmonkey on April 21, 2012, 09:44:58 AM
When I switched to Amsoil full synth my clutch slipped as well but only at higher revs. I have less than 1K on the oil and the clutch seems normal again. Original, single, OEM (26+ years old) spring. Give it some time unless it is really bad. And if you do switch back, it may still slip till the synth oil is fully absorbed and your friction plates purge it out. They are like really slow absorbing sponges.
So, set me straight, this is the expected norm when switching to Rotella T??
What exactly are the benefits then?
A slipping clutch is very counter-productive to a so called improvement.
Maybe I should take the clutch apart and clean it all with a solvent to rid it for this crap so it will work like it used to.
This is one mod, that just didn't pan out for me.
Leon
Quote from: 1tinindian on April 21, 2012, 10:21:04 AM
So, set me straight, this is the expected norm when switching to Rotella T??
What exactly are the benefits then?
A slipping clutch is very counter-productive to a so called improvement.
Maybe I should take the clutch apart and clean it all with a solvent to rid it for this crap so it will work like it used to.
This is one mod, that just didn't pan out for me.
Leon
I cannot speak for Rotella T, just sharing my experience with switching to full synth. My slipping went away and my clutch works as well as before. Your clutch may also work just fine after a break in period, it may not. Others have had similar issues when switching and some kept the synth, others switched back. Search the site and you will find other similar issues with different paths to a solution. Best of luck, hope you get your Kookaloo back.
Quote from: 1tinindian on April 21, 2012, 10:21:04 AM
So, set me straight, this is the expected norm when switching to Rotella T??
What exactly are the benefits then?
A slipping clutch is very counter-productive to a so called improvement.
Maybe I should take the clutch apart and clean it all with a solvent to rid it for this crap so it will work like it used to.
This is one mod, that just didn't pan out for me.
Leon
When my FJ clutch started slipping (the first round-pre spring) I switched away from Mobil 1 red cap to Rotella T and it went away for a year or so. :pardon: I know the data points are all over hell and back when it comes to various oils and perceived benenfits/negatives and ymmv is never more true. You use the dino or the synth rotella?
Quote from: ddlewis on April 21, 2012, 11:22:54 AM
I switched away from Mobil 1 red cap to Rotella T
I made this same switch except in my case, it was when they changed the formula of Red Cap, stopped selling what I was used to like high mileage formula or something. I had great luck with the FJ never slipping -in either case, Mobil or Shell, and I really like the Rotella in my Gixxer and baby Ninja. Shifting is smooth, and it's a synthetic so I feel it's kinder on the motor.
Interestingly, I had been using Rotella and put Castrol in the Gixxer, on a lark, it was on sale, and the results were outright terrible. It felt as if the transmission had been changed out to an inferior, Chinese branded one, it was really notchy, almost un-ridable. I thought something was wrong, it was that bad. I immediately went home from the aborted test ride, and drained it, and put Rotella back in. Problem went away as fast as that. This really surprised me as I know some folk ONLY use Castrol.
So perhaps there is a transition from synth to dino and back that is required.
Don't know,maybe you just need to give it time,
Hope your clutch stops slipping Leon,
Dan
To answer you question Danny, I'll show you the picture of the exact bottle I used.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v338/1tinindian/100_6276.jpg)
No mention of synthetic what so ever on the bottle.
Strange, I was under the impression that any/all Rotella T was syn.
I guess that's what I get for assuming.
The way I see it, I have 3 choices.
1- Leave the Rotella T in and give it few more miles for whatever reason.
2- Leave the Rotella T in, but add my used clutch spring to my new one and take advantage of my adjustable FJR clutch master cylinder.
3- Dump the Rotella T, add the second clutch spring, clean the clutch plates of all the remaining Rotella T, and switch back to Yamalube.
I'm leaning towards #3.
Sorry guys, it was not my intent to turn this into anotehr "OIL" thread.
I just didn't understand the trouble I'm having, simply by changing to a different oil.
Thanks,
Leon
This is the one you want:
(http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/wcsstore/CVWEB/staticproductimage//N3253C/large/8120031_sll_5079769_pri_larg.jpg)
Or at least that's the one I've always used.
Cheers!
Dan
Hey Leon. That is Rotella dino oil. The synthetic comes in a blue container. I see the label says 10 w 30. Check the API label (round insignia on the back). If it says energy conserving, dump it, as it will contain moly to reduce friction. This can cause slippage in a wet clutch. The 10 w 40 is a better choice as it doesn`t contain moly. I used the 10 w 40 rotella last year with no slippage whatsoever, though I do have 2 clutch springs in my bike. Will be using the Rotella synthetic this season. The reason I`m changing over is to see if the engine runs at a lower temp with the synthetic oil.
Derek
As far as I can remember, 10w-30 weight oils are "energy conserving" and contain additives which are not very good to use in vehicles with a wet clutch.
Maybe that's one of the reasons your clutch is slipping?
Edit: Well hey, Derek made it first! What'cha know?
I've been using Rotella T / 15W40 for about 10,000 miles with no problems. I was using Castrol AcTEVO - 10W40 but found the tranny clunky - I find the tranny is smoother shifting with the Rotella T.
No "Energy Conserving" in the Specs of the 15W40. I've never used the 10W30.
Sorry you're having trouble Leon.
Quote from: Dan Filetti on April 21, 2012, 02:56:37 PM
This is the one you want:
(http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/wcsstore/CVWEB/staticproductimage//N3253C/large/8120031_sll_5079769_pri_larg.jpg)
Or at least that's the one I've always used.
Cheers!
Dan
Yup, that's the right stuff! I started using it with 85,000 km on my '92 FJ and now she's at just over 92,000 km (with one oil change in between) have had no issues. She shifts well and there is no clutch slippage at all.
Zwartie
Quote from: Derek Young on April 21, 2012, 03:01:47 PM
Hey Leon. That is Rotella dino oil. The synthetic comes in a blue container. I see the label says 10 w 30. Check the API label (round insignia on the back). If it says energy conserving, dump it, as it will contain moly to reduce friction. This can cause slippage in a wet clutch. The 10 w 40 is a better choice as it doesn`t contain moly. I used the 10 w 40 rotella last year with no slippage whatsoever, though I do have 2 clutch springs in my bike. Will be using the Rotella synthetic this season. The reason I`m changing over is to see if the engine runs at a lower temp with the synthetic oil.
Derek
Here is what it says Derek,
API Service CJ-4/SM
It doesn't say " energy conserving" anywhere on the labels, but I'm not sure that it isn't.
Thanks,
Leon
Quote from: 1tinindian on April 21, 2012, 05:25:03 PM
Here is what it says Derek,
API Service CJ-4/SM
It doesn't say " energy conserving" anywhere on the labels, but I'm not sure that it isn't.
Thanks,
Leon
Same on the 15W40. -- API Service CJ 4/SM
[/quote]
Here is what it says Derek,
API Service CJ-4/SM
It doesn't say " energy conserving" anywhere on the labels, but I'm not sure that it isn't.
Thanks,
Leon
[/quote]
Hmmm.... From what i`ve read, a multi weight oil ending in 30 or less has additives to reduce friction in order to conserve fuel. I wasn`t aware rotella came in 10w -30. Have only seen the dino version in 15w-40. Could be all we get in Canada. I would recommend using the higher viscosity oil. From what i have seen, Rotella seems to be the most commonly used non motorcycle specific oil.
Derek
Quote from: FJmonkey on April 21, 2012, 09:44:58 AM
Quote from: 1tinindian on April 21, 2012, 09:33:13 AM
and now my clutch is slipping.
I had already installed a new clutch spring and added the larger plate in the rear while removing the fine wire spring.
With the Yamalube I had in it at the time, the clutch worked great, now with this change of oil, it slips even worse than before working on the clutch! :dash1:
It's back to Yamalube for me.
Leon
When I switched to Amsoil full synth my clutch slipped as well but only at higher revs. I have less than 1K on the oil and the clutch seems normal again. Original, single, OEM (26+ years old) spring. Give it some time unless it is really bad. And if you do switch back, it may still slip till the synth oil is fully absorbed and your friction plates purge it out. They are like really slow absorbing sponges.
The old "I changed to a different brand/type of oil and now the clutch slips" post!
Exactly why I enquired what the PO used in my bike when I bought it 7 years ago....... "Castrol GTX 20/50 mate" was the answer....... guess what - its still very happily Kookalooing on GTX...... original single OEM spring and NO clutch slip.
Moral to the story.......
Harvy
Quote from: Harvy on April 22, 2012, 04:14:42 AM
guess what - its still very happily Kookalooing on GTX
See, this is the polar opposite to my experiences on exactly that same "Castrol GTX 20/50" I just went down and checked. I have the remnants of a 1 gallon contain still sitting on my shelf in the garage.
Harvey, I trust that your FJ runs well on the stuff, but as I have said, my experience with Castrol in the Gixxer, or perhaps more precisely, switching immediately from Rotella to Castrol, was scary-bad. The switch makes a bigger difference it seems.
Learn something new every day I guess.
Dan
Quote from: 1tinindian on April 21, 2012, 02:24:43 PM
Strange, I was under the impression that any/all Rotella T was syn.
I guess that's what I get for assuming.
The way I see it, I have 3 choices.
1- Leave the Rotella T in and give it few more miles for whatever reason.
2- Leave the Rotella T in, but add my used clutch spring to my new one and take advantage of my adjustable FJR clutch master cylinder.
3- Dump the Rotella T, add the second clutch spring, clean the clutch plates of all the remaining Rotella T, and switch back to Yamalube.
I'm leaning towards #3.
Well if you dump, you've always got a ready supply of bar oil for your chain saw. -So you got that going for you...
Dan
Quote from: Dan Filetti on April 22, 2012, 09:38:37 AM
Well if you dump, you've always got a ready supply of bar oil for your chain saw. -So you got that going for you...
Dan
I prefer Poulan brand Bar and Chain. It's very sticky. Oohh, sorry, wrong forum
Quote from: markmartin on April 22, 2012, 10:41:30 AM
Quote from: Dan Filetti on April 22, 2012, 09:38:37 AM
Well if you dump, you've always got a ready supply of bar oil for your chain saw. -So you got that going for you...
Dan
I prefer Poulan brand Bar and Chain. It's very sticky. Oohh, sorry, wrong forum
The bar-specific stuff is too thick in the winter, it will not flow. If you look, they will sell you a 'winter blend' that oh, by the way is roughly the viscosity of 10W40...
My brother uses nothing but used motor oil, winter or summer, and has thousands of hours on his Stihl, so it can not be that bad.
That said, I typically use the saw specific stuff myself.
Dan
Weird... cause 2 days ago I went to walmart and picked up the same stuff that you did (T, non-synthetic). Then I got home and did more research on it (before I actually changed the oil) and found out that T6 was the stuff to use because it's actually marked "JASO MA" on the back label, which I guess is what to look for when running the oil in a motorcycle?
I did an oil change with the Rotella T6 5w40 yesterday and the bike shifts noticeably better (I don't know what oil the previous owner was running). Also, I can find neutral easier now. Before the oil change it seemed I had to hunt around for neutral once and awhile... now after the T6, it's just right there going down or up in the gears. So far I like the oil... and the price.
(http://www.360wd.com/fj/rotella.jpg)
Well guys, went with optiion #3, dumped the oil, added the second spring, and put in Yamalube 10-50.
I'm off for a ride now, will report back later.
Leon