I apologize in advance for such a long post. Lots of information and also I am new to this forum.
Intro:
I have a pretty stock '85 FJ1100, 16k miles, with a V&H 4-1 exhaust. The bike is in great shape, just had a paint job with hand laid pin stripes. I got the bike for cheap because it needed a few things like tires, brakes, and new bolts here and there. I have rode it about 10 times since I got it 5 months ago. When I first got the bike it would not stay running. I cleaned the carbs and the bowls were covered in bright orange sandy stuff( I assume rust). I cleaned the carbs with carb cleaner, and put new plugs in. The bike ran great(to me at least) except for a rough idle, and it would stall if you snapped the throttle open from idle.
Just recently I started getting the bike ready for riding now that winter is over. I tried to start it and it seemed like the problem was back again. I took the carbs off and once again orange sand, but no where near as much. So I cleaned the carbs and put in new plugs, except this time I cleaned the carbs more thoroughly . Every jet,screw, or hole accessible from the bottom of the carb was removed and cleaned. I did not remove the air/fuel needles but did shoot carb cleaner through every hole I could find.
Problem:
The bike now runs great, smooth idle, snappy throttle response...except...After riding, about 2hr later, the carbs start overflowing. And on cold starts the bike backfires and pings until warm. Then she runs like a champ for the rest of the day with a beautiful idle and good power.
So I assume everyone is going to be pointing me to a carb or peacock rebuild. I am pretty sure the vaccum is not working on the peacock or the carbs wouldnt be getting fuel to overflow?
*Should there be enough pressure on the floats to not let fuel in even if the peacock is not working properly?
*IF I do a basic carb rebuild, what would need to be done after? ex Sync Carbs, Tune them?
*What is a good idle on these stock motors warmed up on a warm day(75F) running 93 octane.
I know motors, but more so car motors. This bike thing is new to me other than the dirt bikes I had as a kid. Just trying to get a feel for all this new equipment.
The rust in the carbs is almost certainly coming from rust in the tank, flaking off and making it into the carbs. This is not a simple thing to fix. Some folks have used a product called 'Cream' to coat the tank. Others think this is a bad idea. Some folks have had some luck taking the tank off, emptying all of the gas out, putting in some small rocks or other abrasive material and shaking the tank every which way for a crazy-long period of time to 'sand-off' the rust.
You will have to solve the root problem or continue to have carb issues -seems to me.
Good luck,
Dan
I would definitely clean and thoroughly inspect inside the gas tank before touching the carbs again.
its pretty common for first time carb cleaners to have to go back into the carbs a second time... dont worry it's a right of passage in the world of FJs.
consider it quality time well spent!
checking the valve clearances would be the first place i would start tuning. Sometimes the valves will tighten up and thats not good.... once properly set though they can go a long time without needed further adjustment.
Its always good to have that baseline written down for future reference.
You will also benefit from some form of carb synchronizer.... either home made or store bought.
i prefer the morgan carbtune as it doesnt have any liquids to spill or get sucked in the engine during the balancing process.
these bike really respond well to carb synchronization.... :good2:
i usually have my warm idle around 1000 RPM they will rattle if you idle on down too much below 900 RPM or so.
the float needle valves should hold against the pressure from the tank if in good nick but ideally you want the petcock to positively shut off the flow of fuel to take as much pressure off as you can.
KOokaloo!
Frank's right.
Get that tank a good looking into before going too far afield.
Go here (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=655.0) and print it out. That'll be your bible for cleaning the carbs very completely. While you're in there, write down the jets, needle positions, etc etc, eventually you may want to refer to that info.
Then check the valve tolerances.
And then set the synch. The morgan carbtune is a damned nice little instrument, albeit a pinch pricy, but it can't spill, which is golden.
Idle speed definitely needs to be a four-digit number. I like mine up a bit higher still, 1150-1200ish.
Entirely probable that you've got some issues in the float needles, petcock, and possibly even venting areas (including the gas cap). Float needle seats are NOT welded in, though they may feel like it.
There is some rust in the tank that I can see. I was looking into syncing the carbs before and was wondering what a shop would charge me before buying my own meter. The Tech said as long as the air/fuel mix was never touched they shouldnt need syncing. He was like hey we can do it for you, but I really dont think it needs to be done. So I left it at that. I'm going out for about a 2 hour ride in like 15min, I will see how things go. This bike may need work, but she is still a joy to ride :)
Quote from: andyb on March 18, 2011, 08:27:05 AM
Frank's right.
Get that tank a good looking into before going too far afield.
Frank's right? Frank's right?! What am I? -Chop liver? I posted this advise before Spanky. Sheesh, a guy get's no respect around here...
:)
Dan
dont take your bike back to that shop /mechanic
Synching the carbs has nothing to do with the mixture being touched or not..... it has everything to do with all four carbs mechanically working together for maximum kookaloo and minimum engine vibration
i synch my carbs every spring and i can tell a difference each time ..... it only takes them being off a small amount to make a huge difference in driveability.
KOokaloo!
Dan, you'd get treated better if you actually OWNED an FJ : :empathy2:
"The Tech said as long as the air/fuel mix was never touched they shouldnt need syncing."
Your tech is an asshat!!!! Sounds like he has no clue as to what synching a set of carbs is. Buy a manual and learn to do it yourself. Or meet a local FJ owner who has some knowledge to help you. Your mixture screws have nothing to do with a set of carbs being in sync!!!
Eric M
Well I'm glad I found you guys because I am left in the dark otherwise.
I just got back from a nice ride..except...I rode for about 2hr straight, Opening her up here and there, a red light or two. And then she started acting a little funny when I came to a stop to use my phone. It seemed as if the motor was loading up, and it stalled. It started right back up, but was not idling properly, kept pinging and missing. But as soon as I pulled out onto the road, no problems unless I came to a stop again. So I made it to pick up the woman, and while I was waiting I turned the bike off. It sat for about 15min, and then would not start. Just kept turning over as if no spark. I called for a tow(gotta love free roadside assistance) and while I was waiting, about 30-45min, the bike must have cooled down because she started. She ran fine all the way home (Highway riding) and then when I got home I noticed a little bit of smoke coming from the carb area. I have not looked into that yet because my first thought was, let me ask the guys.
Please point me in some direction. I dont understand why I have all these starting/idling issues. I read through the carb tuning bible and the bike fits every recommendation in each step as far as top end power, low end power, 3rd gear from 3k-7k rpm, etc. So how could all of these things be running right, yet I have so many issues? Does this bike REALLY get any faster? OMG I wouldnt know what to do with all the power when its running right, if this would be considered running bad........
If it's running properly, a bounce on the throttle at 3k in first should easily lift the front tire. Using the top third of the tach should hurt your shoulders. Unfortunately those are the things that are easiest to fix. Improving low rev drivability is probably the most finicky bit.
Sounds to me like there's crap in at least one of the carbs still, there's a problem at the float needle area, there is a lack of venting in the gas cap, and possibly a little adjustment needed on the idle mix.
Doesn't really make any difference, if you're running rusty shit through the bike, it'll never run the way it should.
Quote from: andyb on March 18, 2011, 06:29:47 PM
If it's running properly, a bounce on the throttle at 3k in first should easily lift the front tire. Using the top third of the tach should hurt your shoulders. Unfortunately those are the things that are easiest to fix. Improving low rev drivability is probably the most finicky bit.
Sounds to me like there's crap in at least one of the carbs still, there's a problem at the float needle area, there is a lack of venting in the gas cap, and possibly a little adjustment needed on the idle mix.
Doesn't really make any difference, if you're running rusty shit through the bike, it'll never run the way it should.
Gas cap vent problem happens while under load, vacuum in the tank, limits what years will do this with a clean fuel filter. Seems like a stuck float, runs great while consuming fuel and floods while sitting still. That is my $0.02. Any fuel under the bike after sitting?
Tank will drain overnight. Last night I played with the valve, I changed it from primary to halfway in the middle of the other setting, I dont know the point of the other setting but it didnt leak. But before I ever did that, nothing stopped it from draining the whole tank
How do I clean this tank of rust? Please dont tell me I have to get a new tank because this one was just painted to match the bike. I would hate to loose this fresh $1600 paint job. :dash2: Can someone give me their best recommendations and the cost...The rust is visible when looking in the tank from the cap. I cant tell how bad it is else where. Also where can I get a gas cap? Or is that a new tank?
In addition to my last post. The bike was running REAL HOT on the way home, and it was only 68-70F outside.
Quote from: Slick on March 18, 2011, 07:06:58 PM
Tank will drain overnight. Last night I played with the valve, I changed it from primary to halfway in the middle of the other setting, I dont know the point of the other setting but it didnt leak. But before I ever did that, nothing stopped it from draining the whole tank
How do I clean this tank of rust? Please dont tell me I have to get a new tank because this one was just painted to match the bike. I would hate to loose this fresh $1600 paint job. :dash2: Can someone give me their best recommendations and the cost...The rust is visible when looking in the tank from the cap. I cant tell how bad it is else where. Also where can I get a gas cap? Or is that a new tank?
In addition to my last post. The bike was running REAL HOT on the way home, and it was only 68-70F outside.
You have options to keep your tank and $$$ paint job. Others will chime in on how remove rust as well as possibly coat the interior to prevent future rust. I have no knowledge or experience on this as I live in SoCal and rust is banned from the state. It simply does not exist in this desert climate. Like trying to convince people living on the equator that water can fall from the sky in frozen flakes. Rust is old wives' tales and rust prevention is snake oil. A good fuel filter will be your friend till you get the rust sorted out.
....... I used... por-15... to seal the inside of my tank,.... No more carb. problems LOL
Quote from: Brook on March 18, 2011, 08:20:49 PM
....... I used... por-15... to seal the inside of my tank,.... No more carb. problems LOL
See.....the rust thing brings out the snake oil and other assorted fixes. The snake oil might actually work so I quietly sneak out the back door. :flag_of_truce:
Slick,
What you're calling "primary" position on the petcock is actually the "PRIME" position. This is NOT the position you should be running with. It is really only to fill the float bowls after working on the carbs. You should be keeping it in the RUN or ON position. In this position the manifold vacuum of the engine will open the petcock to flow fuel and it will stop it from flowing when the engine is not running.
Note: These petcocks sometimes do have problems caused by tears or holes in the internal diaphram which prevent them from opening or other sealing problems which prevent them shutting off.
Your overflowing carbs are probably being caused by rust or other crap holding the float needle off the seat. You can sometimes correct this by gently tapping on the side of the offending carb, but you really need to clean the carb and seal the rust in the tank.
You need to remove the tank and drain it. Then put a handful of small steel nuts (1/4" nuts are good) and a cup or two of fuel. Shake vigorously to get all the loose rust off the interior surface of the tank. Remove the nuts and flaked rust (use a magnet). Rinse the tank with fuel and then put some "Rust Converter" (get it at your local hardware store) in. Swish it all around for a while. Drain it, and flush with fuel again twice. Now, put your serviced or new petcock back on the tank, re-install, fill with fuel and go ride.
Keeping the tank full if the bike is not being used, will help keep it from rusting again.
Arnie
Quote from: Slick on March 18, 2011, 07:06:58 PM
Tank will drain overnight. Last night I played with the valve, I changed it from primary to halfway in the middle of the other setting, I dont know the point of the other setting but it didnt leak. But before I ever did that, nothing stopped it from draining the whole tank
How do I clean this tank of rust? Please dont tell me I have to get a new tank because this one was just painted to match the bike. I would hate to loose this fresh $1600 paint job. :dash2: Can someone give me their best recommendations and the cost...The rust is visible when looking in the tank from the cap. I cant tell how bad it is else where. Also where can I get a gas cap? Or is that a new tank?
In addition to my last post. The bike was running REAL HOT on the way home, and it was only 68-70F outside.
Quote from: Slick on March 18, 2011, 07:06:58 PM
Tank will drain overnight. Last night I played with the valve, I changed it from primary to halfway in the middle of the other setting, I dont know the point of the other setting but it didnt leak. But before I ever did that, nothing stopped it from draining the whole tank
How do I clean this tank of rust? Please dont tell me I have to get a new tank because this one was just painted to match the bike. I would hate to loose this fresh $1600 paint job. :dash2: Can someone give me their best recommendations and the cost...The rust is visible when looking in the tank from the cap. I cant tell how bad it is else where. Also where can I get a gas cap? Or is that a new tank?
In addition to my last post. The bike was running REAL HOT on the way home, and it was only 68-70F outside.
PRI means PRIME, not primary.... it bypasses the vacuum and flows fuel continuously, to fill empty float bowls without draining the battery. For normal running, you want to be in one of the other positions. One is RES(erve), I don't recall what the other is marked. That is part of the fuel draining problem, the other 1/2 is most likely the float needle seat orings need to be replaced, they get hard and cracked and let fuel seep past....
Quote from: Slick on March 18, 2011, 07:06:58 PM
Tank will drain overnight.
The bike was running REAL HOT on the way home, and it was only 68-70F outside.
Um, drain to where? The ground or into your motor? Is your oil level rising?
And unless you have a temp gauge, wondering how you know how hot is real hot? Not saying you're wrong, just want to put a number on it to help, or maybe compare it to another bike?
Doug
Quote from: carsick on March 18, 2011, 09:53:08 PM
Quote from: Slick on March 18, 2011, 07:06:58 PM
Tank will drain overnight.
The bike was running REAL HOT on the way home, and it was only 68-70F outside.
Um, drain to where? The ground or into your motor? Is your oil level rising?
And unless you have a temp gauge, wondering how you know how hot is real hot? Not saying you're wrong, just want to put a number on it to help, or maybe compare it to another bike?
Doug
The tank would drain to the ground from the carb overflow hoses. I cant say if my oil level is rising but I can say within the last 2-3 rides it has turned black. FYI 2 rides ago I cleaned the carbs. Its real hot to me because it started to make me sweat and you could feel the heat coming off it even after a 15min cruise (straight 55mph in 5th) and then stopped at a light. I mean it felt like it was burnin up. Even the gas tank was getting hot, and there was a cool breeze with no sun. Something just didnt feel right thats all I'm saying. To put a number on it? The heat coming up at me sitting on the bike felt like 200-250+ ( dont flame me for the temp, I'm just expressing my feelings)
Off to work..I will be at it tomorrow.
Oh and thanks for sheding light onto the peacock valve. I was told to ride it on PR, because it meant Primary and the other was for Reserve. Oh well now I know and already changed it. Could that have anything to do with the issues I have been having? Anything?
Quote from: Slick on March 18, 2011, 10:05:39 PM
....thanks for shedding light onto the petcock valve. I was told to ride it on PR, because it meant Primary and the other was for Reserve. Oh well now I know and already changed it. Could that have anything to do with the issues I have been having? Anything?
Ostensibly, the needle seat should prevent the overflow into the float bowl, and onto the floor, but if it's held away by rust particles then it will continue to allow gas into the float bowl until it overflows onto the floor. Leaving the petcock on PRI allows the gas to flow unabated so yes, this is one of your issues for sure.
If the petcock is functioning properly (and not on PRI) then it will stop flowing gas when the motor is shut off. You may still have a puddle, but it will not be the entire contents of the tank. If it's a big puddle still, then you need to re-build/ replace the petcock, clean the rust from the tank, and clean and sync the carbs one more time (including replacing the needle seat o-rings) and you should be good to go. Adjusting your fuel level would not hurt either.
As for the hot motor, not sure, maybe your running very lean, which would account for a hotter running motor. To check this, read your plugs. what color are they? If they are white/ light gray, you're likely running too lean.
Good luck
Dan
Just wondering. Is there any chance that the carbs overflowed enough to drain into the cyl and then down into the oil? I just picked up some Valvoline Race Oil 20-50W, it was on sale. $2.50 a quart, I got 9 so I hope I like it. I also went to buy feeler gauges so I could check my valve clearances but I didnt know which one to buy. What measurements do I need? The gauges go .402 and the next is like .483 and so forth. What is the best tool to check them (maybe a link to one so I can get an idea of what to look for?) Autozone has a valve checker feeler gauge.
Take a sample of and smell your oil. If it smells like fuel, then you need to replace -fairly simple.
Yamaha quotes metric sizes for valve clearance .11-.15mm for intake, and .15-.20 for exhausts.
This translates to .004 - .006" for intakes and .006 - .008" for exhaust. So, a set of feelers that has 4,5,6,7,8 thousandths is fine.
You don't want to set the valves at the minimum clearance as they'll close up during use. If possible, set the valves so the .005 fits through, but the .006 does not on the intakes and the .007 fits through, but the .008 does not on the exhaust valves.
Cheers,
Arnie
OK here is a little update to the bikes condition.
Once I changed the peacock lever position the carbs stopped overflowing. The weather has warmed up and the bike runs great. At random times during a ride it may have a bit of an unsteady idle, but thats about it as far as running goes. One issue I am having is electrical. For some reason most of the time when it happens, is when the bike has been running for a while then is turned of for a short period (like 10min) and tried to start again. The motor will turn but wont start. So I have to jiggle around the little 3-fuse fuse box located up front and keep trying it until I find the sweet spot for the fuse box and it starts. As soon as it starts its fine, the fuse box then seems to mean nothing. I have checked the connections and I see nothing wrong. Let alone I have NEVER had this problem when first starting the bike for the day. Something about heat seems to make this happen is part of my guess.
About 2wks ago I got new tires front and back. I went with Perreli Sport Demons. I paid like $220 Shipped. I basically went with the Perreli's because I was running an older model Perreli similar to the Sport Demons and was comfortable with them. Keep in mind I am new to riding so I dont know any different when it comes to how a bike should handle but I do like my new tires. The bike feels like it turns in better and its easier to maneuver around. I'm not comfortable enough riding let alone on my bike to be pushing it in the corners, but I can say I felt comfortable getting my lean on enough to get a little toe rub :good:
I painted my V&H with VHT Flame Proof. I kinda did a half ass job, only put in about 1hr of sanding. It still came out ok, I'm happy with it. It looks soooo much better than rust color oh wait I mean RUST. Now lets see how long it lasts.
Also last night I ordered a new Front Brake light switch since mine only likes to work sometimes...A new speedometer cable because mine broke the other day on the highway while I was um ah,cleaning the top of 3rd gear...And 4 basic carb rebuild kits(bowl gasket, o-rings, and float needle)
Questions:
* I want to buy a Carb sync unit for after I clean these carbs up real nice. I know I can make one and I'm normally the MacGyver kind of guy to make things, but I want a digital/electronic one. I just have a few things to figure out.
Are there any recommendations for either the Twinmax or the Carbmate? Please no comments regrading any other devices.
* The Carbmate I found for $100 does not come with any fittings. Does anyone know what additional items I would need if I purchased that one? I can find 6mm adapters for the Carbmate but dont know what size I need for my bike.
* How exactly do I sync these carbs? I have a Clymer and I have found a few write ups with no pictures or anything. I'm kinda confused as to how these meters hook up to the bike, where do you start, and what do you adjust?
* My bike came with a V&H and I dont know if the PO jetted the carbs or not. Is there a way to tell if anything was changed when I have the carbs apart doing the rebuild?
Thanks for everyones help. She is really coming along well. The guy at the shop that put my tires on came back after the test ride and was like "wow, ya got a nice ride there" I was so proud of her. She looks great and runs great for her age.
Quote
* I want to buy a Carb sync unit for after I clean these carbs up real nice. I know I can make one and I'm normally the MacGyver kind of guy to make things, but I want a digital/electronic one. I just have a few things to figure out.
Are there any recommendations for either the Twinmax or the Carbmate? Please no comments regrading any other devices.
The only thing that I've seen similar was like this (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/WEBER-40-45-DCOE-CARB-BALANCER-/160590070033?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2563ea0111#ht_500wt_1156) and the guy reported good results. Be warned that he's an idiot at times and I have not personally heard/ridden the bike. Keeping mouth shut after that, though having made my own synch gauge I can report that it's harder than it looks to really do properly, though it can get you in the ballpark.
Quote* The Carbmate I found for $100 does not come with any fittings. Does anyone know what additional items I would need if I purchased that one? I can find 6mm adapters for the Carbmate but dont know what size I need for my bike.
This goes hand-in-hand with the next question, though I suspect it depends on what is included with the tool.
Quote* How exactly do I sync these carbs? I have a Clymer and I have found a few write ups with no pictures or anything. I'm kinda confused as to how these meters hook up to the bike, where do you start, and what do you adjust?
This (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=2032.0) explains it as well as it can be explained as far as what to adjust and/or how. Between the carb bodies and the engine are rubber boots, they look like this (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Carb%3AIntake&cat=24). See the brass tube? Depending on the year/previous owners, the #2 one should be connected to the ignitor box, and the rest will be capped off. Remove the caps as well as the long hose going to the ignitor/timing`puterthing, and there's the four vacuum ports that any synch tool (digital, dial, liquid, or morgan) will connect to. I want to say they're around 1/4 or 5/16 OD, so you'd need rubber tubing of around that ID to slip over the barbs, and whatever is required to adapt to the tool you're using.
Quote* My bike came with a V&H and I dont know if the PO jetted the carbs or not. Is there a way to tell if anything was changed when I have the carbs apart doing the rebuild?
Sure. Read the stock jet sizes and look at the needle. An adjustable needle will have multiple places for the "E"-shaped clip to fit into, an OEM US needle will not. If you find extra shims under it, that's another sign adjustments have been made. If the main jets are stock (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=47.0) sizes, then I'd guess they're pretty stock, yeah? If you have the V&H SS2R pipe and UNI or K&N pod filters, then here (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=1974.0) is a post of what's worked for some others of us. The V&H SS pipe should be similar but likely a size smaller here and there. For reference, the SS pipe came originally with black headpipes (that turned to rust) and a round cannister, the SS2R pipe came with plated headpipes (that turned to rust, fuck V&H) and an oval cannister. Further, remember that what works for one doesn't necessarily work for another, as your riding conditions, style, and what you consider "running well" can be at odds with what another person aims for.
(And the morgan carbtune is comparably priced, hugely easy to use, damned effective. And pretty nigh-on indestructable, short of doing something stupid. I've got one. It's expensive, and not only do I not regret it but I understand why everyone raves about them so much.)
Slick, nice update, sounds like you're having some fun to balance out the money and time you're spending! I was going to answer your questions however Andy did it quicker and better.
Quote from: Slick on June 22, 2011, 11:35:49 AM
I'm not comfortable enough riding let alone on my bike to be pushing it in the corners, but I can say I felt comfortable getting my lean on enough to get a little toe rub :good:
Not the answer to any of your questions, but here goes: Get your feet back, especially if you are wearing flexible soled shoes, as many newish riders do. If you get your foot down too hard, it can break and fold back under the footpeg.
Sorry for the threadjack, but I just had to mention this.
Randy T
Indy
Quote from: rktmanfj on June 22, 2011, 12:28:02 PM
Quote from: Slick on June 22, 2011, 11:35:49 AM
I'm not comfortable enough riding let alone on my bike to be pushing it in the corners, but I can say I felt comfortable getting my lean on enough to get a little toe rub :good:
Not the answer to any of your questions, but here goes: Get your feet back, especially if you are wearing flexible soled shoes, as many newish riders do. If you get your foot down too hard, it can break and fold back under the footpeg.
Sorry for the threadjack, but I just had to mention this.
Randy T
Indy
I appreciate your concern but I will have you know that I am doing this wearing these http://www.webbikeworld.com/motorcycle-boots/tcx-ss-performance-2-boots/ (http://www.webbikeworld.com/motorcycle-boots/tcx-ss-performance-2-boots/) They have toe sliders.
Quote from: Slick on June 22, 2011, 01:05:13 PM
Quote from: rktmanfj on June 22, 2011, 12:28:02 PM
Quote from: Slick on June 22, 2011, 11:35:49 AM
I'm not comfortable enough riding let alone on my bike to be pushing it in the corners, but I can say I felt comfortable getting my lean on enough to get a little toe rub :good:
Not the answer to any of your questions, but here goes: Get your feet back, especially if you are wearing flexible soled shoes, as many newish riders do. If you get your foot down too hard, it can break and fold back under the footpeg.
Sorry for the threadjack, but I just had to mention this.
Randy T
Indy
I appreciate your concern but I will have you know that I am doing this wearing these http://www.webbikeworld.com/motorcycle-boots/tcx-ss-performance-2-boots/ (http://www.webbikeworld.com/motorcycle-boots/tcx-ss-performance-2-boots/) They have toe sliders.
Duly noted. Sounds like you everything covered.
I apologize again for hijacking your thread... carry on.
Randy T
Indy
Quote from: Slick on June 22, 2011, 11:35:49 AM
OK here is a little update to the bikes condition.
Once I changed the peacock lever position the carbs stopped overflowing. The weather has warmed up and the bike runs great. At random times during a ride it may have a bit of an unsteady idle, but thats about it as far as running goes. One issue I am having is electrical. For some reason most of the time when it happens, is when the bike has been running for a while then is turned of for a short period (like 10min) and tried to start again. The motor will turn but wont start. So I have to jiggle around the little 3-fuse fuse box located up front and keep trying it until I find the sweet spot for the fuse box and it starts. As soon as it starts its fine, the fuse box then seems to mean nothing. I have checked the connections and I see nothing wrong. Let alone I have NEVER had this problem when first starting the bike for the day. Something about heat seems to make this happen is part of my guess.
Next time, try cracking the throttle open just a very slight bit..... maybe a 1/16th turn or less. This always works with mine.
Ok so my carb rebuild kits came today. I'm actually outside working on them now.
Few Notes:
*Main Jet is 115 (Is that stock?)
*Carb #4 leaked gas(about half a shot glass) out of Cyl side of carb when removing carb rack.
*Tank is on ground with full tank of gas. Peacock works great, YAY!
Will report back when I'm done.
Everything went great. The bike fired right up after re installing the carbs and sounded better than ever. I let it warm up a little and stable out before setting idle. Then I took it for a ride around the area. The bike is so smooth and quiet unless you open the throttle. BUT........After riding for about 15min the bike started to bog and miss. It started getting worse, then worse, then stalled. It would not start back up. I waited about 15min and it started but was still bogging. Then as I rode for about 10min it got worse, then worse, then stalled. So same thing, waited 15min started the bike and made it home. I dont know what could be wrong. I love the way the bike runs before it starts acting funny. Argh, I was so happy......
Maybe the float level, too low starves the engine, too high floods it?
Sounds like a fuel line routing issue to me. Check that the line is following the exact route recommended by Yamaha. Should be a routing diagram decal under the seat. Regards, Pete.
+1 on what Pete said... 1) Check your fuel line routing. Very critical on early gravity flow bikes.
What is happening is when the bike is cold everything is fine until it warms up the fuel line gets soft and thus when warm/hot the fuel line becomes very susceptible to being pinched. It feels like your bike is running out of gas, and it is. Bike cools down, line hardens a bit, gas trickles into the carb's float bowls, bike starts and runs.... until the fuel line gets warm again, and again pinches off the gas......
Also,
2) Check that your 2 fuel bowl vent lines (the vent T's between #1 and#2 .. #3 and#4) are hooked up and are not pinched. The bowls need to breathe to get gas into them.......
Cheers! Pat
Quote from: oldktmdude on June 25, 2011, 10:42:53 PM
Sounds like a fuel line routing issue to me. Check that the line is following the exact route recommended by Yamaha.
Regards, Pete.
Quote from: Pat Conlon on June 26, 2011, 01:15:17 AM
+1 on what Pete said... 1) Check your fuel line routing. Very critical on early gravity flow bikes.
Cheers! Pat
Words of wisdom from the experts :good: