I'm fixing up my Dad's old FJ1100 that's been sitting since at least 2006. So far I've gotten the starter motor to work. My next issue before tackling the clutch, suspension, and brakes is getting the engine to actually run. However that is where my problem lies. We've managed to get the carbs off and clean those. That was my first job working on the bike. I've installed it and after getting the starter motor to work the closest thing to ignition I've backfire while trying to start it with my Dad. Any ideas on what could be going on? We've also checked the spark plugs and we are getting spark to them, and the engine does turn over.
Is gas getting to the carbs? Did you try some starter spray?
The gas tank currently isn't hooked up. We poured gas into the carbs and tried starting fluid but the bike still doesn't start. There were a few putt putt's after trying to start then after a few more minutes trying to start it we stopped after it backfired and nearly deafend both of us
I am assuming you properly cleaned those carbs and replaced all the dried rubber o rings.
Now, replace the dried o rings on the intake manifold (between the manifold and head)
Cleaned the carbs but did not replace the o rings? Fail.
Buy this kit....you need this kit: http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=carbkit (http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=carbkit)
It has everything you need and then some....The best $24 you will ever spend on your FJ...by far.
Got the plug wires hooked up correctly?
Was the backfire back through the carbs or in the exhaust?
Quote from: Pat Conlon on March 30, 2020, 04:40:54 PM
I am assuming you properly cleaned those carbs and replaced all the dried rubber o rings.
Now, replace the dried o rings on the intake manifold (between the manifold and head)
Cleaned the carbs but did not replace the o rings? Fail.
Buy this kit....you need this kit: http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=carbkit (http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=carbkit)
It has everything you need and then some....The best $24 you will ever spend on your FJ...by far.
I didn't see any O rings when i cleaned it. So maybe didn't do it thoroughly enough.
Quote from: FJ_Hooligan on March 30, 2020, 07:45:43 PM
Was the backfire back through the carbs or in the exhaust?
Back fire was through the exhaust we're pretty sure.
Quote from: RPM - Robert on March 30, 2020, 04:55:57 PM
Got the plug wires hooked up correctly?
Yep haven't done too much with the spark plugs. Just took them out to see if the engine would even turn over by putting it in gear and rolling it across the floor. That and to check spark but never took more than 1 out at a time.
It seems it takes someone new to real carb cleaning about three tries to get the job done well enough to be effective. Gasoline in the last decade or so is so much nastier and leaves a much worse varnish/goo/crap than it used to. These bikes do get grumpy about the idle system getting gummed up. It will take a very thorough carb cleaning of all the small passages to be effective. And the o-ring and fasteners kit Pat is definitely worth it.
Quote from: SpazmaticAA on March 30, 2020, 11:05:45 PM
I didn't see any O rings when i cleaned it. So maybe didn't do it thoroughly enough.
If they weren't completely torn down like this; they are most likely not clean. There are a minimum of 20 o-rings we replace every time we rebuild carbs not including the throttle shaft seals or intake manifold o-rings.
Yep, I'm a believer- those carbs need experienced eyes and hands else much pain can come your way.
Quote from: andyoutandabout on March 31, 2020, 12:32:20 PM
Yep, I'm a believer- those carbs need experienced eyes and hands else much pain can come your way.
Well this is my senior project to graduate High School so I have to do this myself. Well I'll talk to my Dad about ordering the new O-rings. I'm not sure how my Dad feels ordering from vendors other than ebay or amazon.
If you need to understand RPM, look at all of the reviews. Plus Randy also owns this forum your source of info. Fear not buying from RPM, Randy and Robert are the source you need. http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?board=28.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?board=28.0)
Copper is right. Amazon and eBay don't give good solid advice that is worth more than the cost of the bag of o-rings and stainless steel screws.And you can depend on RPM not to sell crappy parts.
Quote from: T Legg on March 31, 2020, 09:45:40 PM
Copper is right. Amazon and eBay don't give good solid advice that is worth more than the cost of the bag of o-rings and stainless steel screws.And you can depend on RPM not to sell crappy parts.
That's not the issue. I'm not sure how my Dad feels giving out his debit card info since we don't use credit card for anything. But I still need to talk to him about it. I'll post something if it still won't work or whatever.
RPM is a real business, it's not just "some guy online, who takes your money and promises to send your parts out any day now." They have been doing this for years.
If your dad has ever paid at a restaurant (*in the US) using his debit card, he has been more unsafe with it than he would be entering its info into the RPM check-out site. (*)Because for some reason, the US method is still to give your card to a server, who then walks away with it to run it through their point-of-sale terminal, and then brings it back to you. Everywhere else I've ever been, they bring the point-of-sale device to you and you insert the card yourself, it never leaves your sight.
Amazon and eBay are fine in their own way, but they're always a crap-shoot that depend on the individual seller, who you don't ever really know. Did you order a motorcycle part but some guy 10,000 miles away shipped you a box of dog turds and cancer-AIDS instead, because it was cheaper? You can submit your complaint to eBay or Amazon, wait a while, see how it turns out, they may tell you "we have evidence your package was delivered, you're out of luck if you weren't happy with your package."
By contrast, RPM is a member of this community, they are known to us, they are trusted by us. These may not be folks you know, but they're folks *we* know, and we vouch for them. They're not gonna order an Xbox on your dad's debit card.
On the internet there's a few good guys, a few bad guys, and a whole lot of unknowns. RPM is a good guy and has proven it over and over. I've pretty much given up on ebay and Amazon when I know I can get the right stuff from Randy.
Randy and Robert of RPM are the real deal... I've done business with them numerous times over the years and NEVER had a problem.
You will NEVER find a more thoroughly stocked "HONEST" FJ distributor anywhere!
Quote from: SpazmaticAA on March 31, 2020, 11:33:56 PM
I'm not sure how my Dad feels giving out his debit card info since we don't use credit card for anything.
1) Order the RPM parts online (with sales tax and shipping cost) then
2) print the page.... then
3) cancel the online order, then
4) mail RPM a check with a copy of the online order printed page, then
5) wait.
You are in for a long road of recovery if you think you will be able to get your dad's bike running without help from RPM.
Best wishes
Stupid question perhaps, but did you plug the vacuum hose that normally connects to the fuel tap during the starting attempts ?
The 1100's don't use the vacuum petcock.
Quote from: FJmonkey on April 01, 2020, 04:04:40 PM
The 1100's don't use the vacuum petcock.
I thought all 1100's had the vacuum petcock,
I know mine does :scratch_one-s_head:
Quote from: Sparky84 on April 01, 2020, 04:21:25 PM
Quote from: FJmonkey on April 01, 2020, 04:04:40 PM
The 1100's don't use the vacuum petcock.
I thought all 1100's had the vacuum petcock,
I know mine does :scratch_one-s_head:
I think the Monkey Man may have just had a senior moment. All the 1100's had the vacuum petcock from the factory.
OOps, was thinking of the electric reserve shut-off. As you were gents...
I've done business with rpm with no problem 7 years ago with my old bike and in the last year with my current Fj he is reliable... and if you have trust issues get a pre paid credit card from pretty much any store. Just my two cents.
Quote from: FJmonkey on April 01, 2020, 04:31:33 PM
OOps, was thinking of the electric reserve shut-off. As you were gents...
1100's have a 'electric reserve shut-off '...
I never noticed it on my 1100, :unknown:
I didn't even know I had a reserve, Thanks
Quote from: Sparky84 on April 01, 2020, 11:28:33 PM
Quote from: FJmonkey on April 01, 2020, 04:31:33 PM
OOps, was thinking of the electric reserve shut-off. As you were gents...
1100's have a 'electric reserve shut-off '...
I never noticed it on my 1100, :unknown:
I didn't even know I had a reserve, Thanks
The electric part was only on the 86/87 years.
Quote from: fjaap on April 01, 2020, 03:15:28 PM
Stupid question perhaps, but did you plug the vacuum hose that normally connects to the fuel tap during the starting attempts ?
Nope. Stupid me also forgot to take pictures of vacuum hoses and I might have lost the hose too. That said is their a vacuum diagram available?
There is a vacume port nipple on each carburetor intake boot. The two nipples on the right should be capped. One of the uncapped nipples connects to the vacume port of the fuel tank petcock and the other one connects to the tci unit on the left side of the bike just below the seat to control the timing advance when the throttle is closed. The bike will still run fine with the tci line disconnected if the vacume port at the intake boot Is capped.
Thanks everyone for the kind words regarding us.
We do also take PayPal so the credit card usage is moot. Pay with PayPal if you need to but clean and build your carbs correctly.
You should also get a service manual. That would probably help you out quite a bit.
Quote from: RPM - Robert on April 02, 2020, 10:25:52 AM
You should also get a service manual. That would probably help you out quite a bit.
Don't worry I ended up getting a Hanes Manual when i was trying to get the starter to work.
Have you seen the information on carb cleaning we have in the Files?
We have a whole section dedicated to carburetors.
Quote from: Pat Conlon on April 02, 2020, 07:14:32 PM
Have you seen the information on carb cleaning we have in the Files?
We have a whole section dedicated to carburetors.
https://thexscafedotcom.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/mikuni_bs-cv_carburetor_rebuild_tutorial.pdf
Probably the best page I've bookmarked from here
Thank you to the guys who made this page and have been sharing it definitely worth a look SpazmaticAA
Quote from: SpazmaticAA on March 30, 2020, 11:06:33 PM
Back fire was through the exhaust we're pretty sure.
The "wasted spark" ignition system fires the plugs on the compression stroke and on the exhaust stroke. Therefore, the backfire you heard was an unburned fuel mixture lighting off in the exhaust.
And if you didn't see any O-rings during your carb cleaning, then it was more of a waste of time than a cleaning.
Get the RPM kit.
Quote from: Dieselman7.3 on April 03, 2020, 03:07:59 PM
Quote from: Pat Conlon on April 02, 2020, 07:14:32 PM
Have you seen the information on carb cleaning we have in the Files?
We have a whole section dedicated to carburetors.
https://thexscafedotcom.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/mikuni_bs-cv_carburetor_rebuild_tutorial.pdf
Probably the best page I've bookmarked from here
Thank you to the guys who made this page and have been sharing it definitely worth a look SpazmaticAA
One HUGE departure in this from the Yamaha version of these carbs is how the needle is held in place and how you adjust the needle!!!! The FJ doesn't require snap ring pliers to remove the needles, and the spring goes ON TOP of the plastic "spacer" vice underneath. Thinning that spacer on an FJ won't change the needle position. On the FJ that is done with washers UNDER the clip.
This is an awesome how-to on the disassembly and cleaning — BUT THE NEEDLES ON THE YAMAHAS ARE NOT LIKE THE ONES ON THIS SUZUKI EXAMPLE. I'm sure our experienced folks won't have any issues, but want to make sure it doesn't trip up someone new to the insides of their FJ carbs
Quote from: fj1289 on April 03, 2020, 06:07:50 PM
Quote from: Dieselman7.3 on April 03, 2020, 03:07:59 PM
Quote from: Pat Conlon on April 02, 2020, 07:14:32 PM
Have you seen the information on carb cleaning we have in the Files?
We have a whole section dedicated to carburetors.
https://thexscafedotcom.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/mikuni_bs-cv_carburetor_rebuild_tutorial.pdf
Probably the best page I've bookmarked from here
Thank you to the guys who made this page and have been sharing it definitely worth a look SpazmaticAA
One HUGE departure in this from the Yamaha version of these carbs is how the needle is held in place and how you adjust the needle!!!! The FJ doesn't require snap ring pliers to remove the needles, and the spring goes ON TOP of the plastic "spacer" vice underneath. Thinning that spacer on an FJ won't change the needle position. On the FJ that is done with washers UNDER the clip.
This is an awesome how-to on the disassembly and cleaning — BUT THE NEEDLES ON THE YAMAHAS ARE NOT LIKE THE ONES ON THIS SUZUKI EXAMPLE. I'm sure our experienced folks won't have any issues, but want to make sure it doesn't trip up someone new to the insides of their FJ carbs
Thank you for pointing that out I forgot this was the page with that on it.... I have 2 other cv cleaning and tuning pages bookmarked I can post up if need be. I did find them very useful and good to keep saved as to not forget anything...
Quote from: Dieselman7.3 on April 03, 2020, 03:07:59 PM
Quote from: Pat Conlon on April 02, 2020, 07:14:32 PM
Have you seen the information on carb cleaning we have in the Files?
We have a whole section dedicated to carburetors.
https://thexscafedotcom.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/mikuni_bs-cv_carburetor_rebuild_tutorial.pdf
Probably the best page I've bookmarked from here
Thank you to the guys who made this page and have been sharing it definitely worth a look SpazmaticAA
Never noticed the "pilot jet plug" in my carbs, should there be one?
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=4281.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=4281.0)