Just starting to fit the R62 (17x5.5) rear:
(https://i17.servimg.com/u/f17/19/98/07/74/d6e5ff10.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19980774/408)
Tire is junk, but it holds air and will do for mock up purposes.
Next is to machine the carrier and work out the spacers.
Then it's on to fitting the fzr750 R42 front (17x3.5).
All the modifications I'm doing to my 89 are pretty "generic". IOW: nothing new on the FI scene. I'm just looking to update it a little, without changing it's "80's superbike" vibe to much or it's handling any more radically than a set of modern radials and a good modern shock.
It's my weekend "plinker" to bring my mind back to the high school years, so just a good "refresh" is all that's required here.
:)
There seem to be a lot of teeth on that rear sprocket :shok:
Presumably that's just what came with the wheel and. It'll e swapped out ?
Did you check to see if you get a 38-42 tooth sprocket for that rim?
Quote from: Millietant on February 24, 2019, 07:16:40 PM
There seem to be a lot of teeth on that rear sprocket :shok:
Presumably that's just what came with the wheel and. It'll e swapped out ?
Yup.
Thats the FZR1000 sprocket. It's already been swapped out for a new FJ stocker.
:)
So, I have read as many fzr1000 rear wheel swaps as I could find. But they just don't seem to be going the way I would.
For example: many talk about taking 5mm off one side of the brake caliper bracket and 2mm off the other. The problem I have with that is the 2mm is off the side where the bearing spacer is. That distance is a very specific dimension as it dictates where the brake disc rides in the brake caliper. The FJ is already biased towards the disc running close to the outer half of the caliper and shaving another 2mm off would push the rotor even closer. So I left that side of the bracket alone amd milled off the side that faces the swingarm. I also had to take off waaaaay more than 7mm to center the rear tire in the chassis.
But that 17-incher looks very nice sitting in there.
Tomorrow, time to machine the sprocket carrier to fit. I'm a little back and forth about what to shave though. Most go through the PITB of shaving down the internal components. I can juuust force the rim into the swingarm with the carrier on and the sprocket alignment is actually pretty good. But there is a "lip" on the outer part of the hub that contacts the swingarm and makes it tight. I may machine that edge down, since it does nothing structural anyways. Then see where I'm sitting and go from there...
Make sure the rear tire is locked in place and staying centered with your front tire when you take your measurements.
In the past folks have been more concerned with rotor or chain alignment, only to find out after all the work is done that the center line of the front and rear tires are now off set.
Quote from: Pat Conlon on February 24, 2019, 09:08:15 PM
Make sure the rear tire is locked in place and staying centered with your front tire when you take your measurements.
In the past folks have been more concerned with rotor or chain alignment, only to find out after all the work is done that the center line of the front and rear tires are now off set.
No worries. I built a laser line rig a long time ago for just these types of projects.
Does wheel alignment, centerline and chain alignment at the same time. Basically, its a clamp assembly you put on the rear wheel, adjust the lasers to true and then it's just a simple matter of keeping things lined up with the laser targets on the front wheel. Centerline is a laser line that goes through steering stem center and swingarm center. Just keep the wheels in line with the laser line and you're good to go.
Used to build a lot of bikes, street and race. Made sense to make the laser rig a long time ago and it's never "steered me wrong" yet.
:)
..."Never Steered me wrong"...... :good2:
Perfect! That bike is in good hands.
Well, still working on the FZR1000 17" rear wheel swap.
On thing for certain; this is not a couple spacers and a "bolt in" deal. Lots of machining required on the sprocket carrier and wheel hub on one side, the brake caliper carrier on the other.
I suppose you could do it with a sander and files or something similar, but that would be an awful long slog and easy to mess it up. I would go crazy working at that level of "imprecision" too.
My lathe is only a 10" swing, so while I've been able to get the carrier on it, I've had to make a few special "accommodations" to get it on there. It wouldn't fit in the chuck properly (4 jaw or 3 jaw), or at least to where I felt comfortable enough to actually machine it. So I ended up installing the lathe drive plate (used with drive dogs), pressing out the wheel bearings, making a 1/4" plate to fit the shoulder where the bearing would sit and then through bolting it all together using the rear axle through the lathe hollow hub shaft. Getting it true was an ordeal of dial gauges, tapping, tightening and repeating that process several times until solid. But once that was done, it machined textbook easy.
The wheel hub is a different story. No way in heck that is fitting on a 10" swing lathe. So I had to resort to hand working it. A 120grit flap wheel on the angle grinder, then scribe lines on the hub using a surface plate and precision scribes where the material needed to be removed. Then carefully go at it with the grinder. Nerve wracking (to say the least) me as I'm used to working to 0.001 tolerances. But got it done.
Still fitting things up and I'll likely have more machining to do. While I did read the previous posts and web page on where others have removed "X" mm here and "X" mm there, I'm more of a "sneak up on it" kind of guy. Production tolerances often mean what worked on one machine may not necessarily work on the next one, so I'd rather take my time and work up to final fit when using parts that will be ruined if you go too far too fast.
I'll get there, just in my own sweet time.
:)
Quote from: Pat Conlon on February 24, 2019, 10:45:10 PM
..."Never Steered me wrong"...... :good2:
Perfect! That bike is in good hands.
Here's a few pics of my laser rig in use while I was building a shaft driven rear Zx750r rear wheel for my VMax powered Yamaha Venture if you'd like to see it:
(https://i.servimg.com/u/f17/19/98/07/74/502cba10.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19980774/412)
(https://i.servimg.com/u/f17/19/98/07/74/7ec61810.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19980774/413)
(https://i.servimg.com/u/f17/19/98/07/74/145b6e10.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19980774/411)
That's a 180 tire and yes, it was a hell of a time getting it to fit. Had to cut and offset the driveshaft tunnel, among other things. The bike actually isn't running that config right now, it's running stock rims on fresh tires for now. I still have to weld the shaft cush drive hub to the ZXr wheel and brace the chopped up Venture swingarm. I need to get a bit more AL welding experience under my belt before I will trust myself to make that weld. I also need to make a pretty precise and rigid jig to do the welding or my runouts will just got to complete shite and everything just becomes scrap metal. I'll get it done, it's just a matter of when I feel comfortable enough to finish it.
But the laser rig makes getting centerline and wheel alignment a snap. Clamp it down to front and rear wheels, fire it up and just true up the measurements on the front wheel targets. Only real setup is to true the rear lasers so they make even lines close to the emitters and on the walls out front. Usually about 10-15 feet out in front of the bike. That makes the laser on the targets more than precise enough for wheel alignment.
My chain/sprocket alignment tool is of similar construction, except it's just a laser that clamps on the rear sprocket and throws a line forward. I just didn't need to use it that time because the Venture/VMax is shaft drive.
I've also got a laser jig that I use when the frame is stripped down to basics that goes above the bike and casts a laser line through centerline of the bike in order to get things properly centered or at least symmetrical.
What a lot of people don't know is a bike can actually run without the wheel centerlines "inline". A 4 wheel vehicle will have an obvious "dog track", but a 2 wheeled vehicle not so much. It's a trick some VMax builders use to get a larger wheel in the back;they offset the rear wheel. The bike handles just fine like that, straight-lining on the street that is. The only handling "quirk" is that the bike usually turns to one side easier than the other. Obviously, the offset makes it "fall in" to one side and resist leaning into the other.....
:)
So you have a VMAX motor in a Venture chassis?
Is the driveshaft VMAX or Venture? I remember reading in the early development of the VMAX motor one of the first things they had to do was use a larger driveshaft. The VMAX would snap the Venture shaft in half.
Quote from: FJ_Hooligan on February 26, 2019, 12:54:49 PM
So you have a VMAX motor in a Venture chassis?
Yup:
(https://i17.servimg.com/u/f17/19/98/07/74/fr_45314.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19980774/414)
It's Vmax from the head gaskets to the airbox cover, which (except for forged rods and some oiling changes) is the meat of the changes from Venture to Vmax engine specs. Depending on what reference you read, the VMax has a 0.5 jump in compression, and slightly popped up pistons to match. But the 83 engine has the same comp ratio as the Vmax (again, depending on what specs you believe) and flat tops (better for flame propagation). Since my rotating assembly had such low mileage, I called it a wash and left the lower end alone, other than some oiling modifications (better cooling and lubrication).
If I ever have to rebuild the bottom end, I'll probably find a 1300 block and punch that out as large as it will go. You can go pretty big if you get the right guys working on it.
I ditched the original ignitor box and installed and Ignitech controller that is programmable for ignition curves and programmable for VBoost control. It started as a cherry 28,000 km 83 and there's lots done to it, but that's for another discussion on another forum.
;)
Quote from: FJ_Hooligan on February 26, 2019, 12:54:49 PM
Is the driveshaft VMAX or Venture? I remember reading in the early development of the VMAX motor one of the first things they had to do was use a larger driveshaft. The VMAX would snap the Venture shaft in half.
Yup, but I use the xvz1300 shaft because I've swapped to a V Max rear differential (lower gearing). The early Ventures had a different shaft and differential than the VMax. The 86+ 1300's are interchangeable with the VMax shaft (so are differentials). Different part numbers, but I would suspect they are the same. I also switched out the transmission to a 2002 Royal star transmission. The newer transmission gives me a couple "pluses":
1. Does away with the second gear issue lots of early Ventures suffered from (bad tempering on the shaft retaining washer). When i took mine apart, it was well on it's way to causing the second gear problem, even with only 28K on it.
2. Does away with the bent sheet metal shift selector pin retainer as the Royal Star shift selector uses a solid machined retainer
3. with the VMax diff, 1-3 are a scootch lower geared, 4 is about the same and 5th is a deep overdrive.
4. I also gave the dogs a slight "undercut" since I had it all apart to swap transmissions.
It's piles of fun, for a full dressed touring bike. Both around town and on "the slab". Leaves black snakes at will and (if that skinny rear happens to actually find enough grip) lofts the front tire on throttle alone, highway cruises in 4th or 5th all day long. Gets around 35-40 mpg if you're disciplined enough with the throttle, but that's pretty much what it got stock anyways. Low to mid 20's if you dip into the power and hit the Vboost zone as much as you really want to....;)
I've shocked the heck out of more than one kid on a racer replica. It leaves super hard and goes into fast forward with alarming authority. When you drop the hammer, you better be "straight up" and pointed where you want to go because it's going to kick the tire out and get where you're pointed faster than you think....
Good progress today:
(https://i17.servimg.com/u/f17/19/98/07/74/a8587410.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19980774/416)
(https://i17.servimg.com/u/f17/19/98/07/74/2bff8310.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19980774/417)
(https://i17.servimg.com/u/f17/19/98/07/74/369b9e10.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19980774/415)
Lots of clearance on the sides of the tire and thats a 170, as big as I will go on this bike.
Still to do:
Cut the hub bearing to wheel bearing spacer
Cut the cush drive rubbers
Cut and reweld the brake caliper bracket stay mount on the swingarm.
The chain is close, but it runs to the outside of the sprocket in that pic. Nothing horrible, it's just a little off center. Theres still room to offset the sprocket carrier to the lh side a mm or two, which will put it dead center. That will be the job of the hub spacers on either side to postion the rear sprocket correctly.
The inner spacer I'll chuck up in the lathe and cut down because I have several lying around. It's also long enough that I can get a good grip on it with the 4 jaw.
I'll make a new outer on the lathe rather than trying to chuck up that tiny chunk and turn it down. This way, I can chuck up a 6" piece of round and just part off the length I want after turning it to size and bore.
What my actual measurements are from what I cut down where I coukdn't tell ya. I just started machining parts to get the proper alignment. When I got things postioned properly, I stopped. It was a lot of back and forth to get it right so I would shave, fit, shave, fit, etc. I didn't machine to a measurement, I machined to a fit.
Couldn't resist mocking it up again to see what it will look like:
(https://i17.servimg.com/u/f17/19/98/07/74/5e624c10.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19980774/419)
(https://i17.servimg.com/u/f17/19/98/07/74/f1cf1310.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19980774/418)
Dang, that's sexy! Looks "period correct" for an 89 as well. I'm starting to lean towards junking the fz1 swingarm and just adding a lower brace on the oem arm.....maybe even just leaving the swingarm stock. My "hardcore" riding days are all behind me now, so most of this is just for the fun of building it and playing with it on weekends on long, winding backcountry roads...
You will be happy, very happy with that 170 back tire. The 17" size will open up a whole catalog of tire selections that are now open to you.
I noticed it looks like you have a lot of weight on your back rim for tire balancing. I seems like a lot to me.
Unlike the old bias ply tires, these new modern radial tires are almost perfectly balanced from the factory so I suspect your inbalance comes from the rim itself and/or cush hub.
Thought about having it spin balanced?
So from what I've read about the FZR to FJ wheel swap, material has to be removed from the wheel itself. How did you accomplish that? You have a lathe with over 9" from headstock to bedway? This is a swap I'd like to accomplish this off season but it's tough finding a machinist to perform the work.
Joe
Quote from: Pat Conlon on February 26, 2019, 08:00:53 PM
You will be happy, very happy with that 170 back tire. The 17" size will open up a whole catalog of tire selections that are now open to you.
I noticed it looks like you have a lot of weight on your back rim for tire balancing. I seems like a lot to me.
Unlike the old bias ply tires, these new modern radial tires are almost perfectly balanced from the factory so I suspect your inbalance comes from the rim itself and/or cush hub.
Thought about having it spin balanced?
Those are the weights that came on the wheel. I just havent stripped them off yet. No idea if it's balanced or not, but the tire is junk anyways (nail hole, cracked sidewalls, etc) so it will be replaced and the whole thing re-balanced.
:)
Quote from: Tuned forks on February 26, 2019, 08:10:32 PM
So from what I've read about the FZR to FJ wheel swap, material has to be removed from the wheel itself. How did you accomplish that? You have a lathe with over 9" from headstock to bedway? This is a swap I'd like to accomplish this off season but it's tough finding a machinist to perform the work.
Joe
Correct. The hub section of the wheel itself is wider than the FJ wheel, so it needs to be cut down. My lathe is a 10x42 (5" swing) so I couldn't get the wheel on it.
What I did was lay the wheel on my surface plate and use scribes off the surface plate to scribe lines on the "vanes" in the drive section. Once I had all the lines scribed, I used a grinder with a flap wheel to remove the bulk of the material and then hand filed the last fee thou to the scribe lines.
I wouod have prefered to use a lathe to do the work, but this also acheves acceptable results. Luckily, it's cast aluminum which works easily with hand files and sanding.
The sprocket carrier was done on the lathe, which is where the critical dimensions for hub alignment are modified.
:)
Very interesting post i like reading about your work .You are a lucky man having a lathe machine i wish i had one myself (Then i think i could have bored the cylindersleeves that i had to send away for boring) i have been working on a lathemacine many years ago. Is there any benefit using a FZR wheel instead of a gsxr wheel? and isent the gsxr wheel swap easier?
The Suzuki wheel swap would have been a piece of cake for you. If you have all the bits (wheel, sprocket carrier spacers and caliper hanger) then you could have machined up two new spacers and welded a lug on the bottom of the swing arm for the brake torque arm to bolt too. Then it's all done.
Mark.
Quote from: Old Rider on February 27, 2019, 04:36:52 AM
Very interesting post i like reading about your work .You are a lucky man having a lathe machine i wish i had one myself (Then i think i could have bored the cylindersleeves that i had to send away for boring) i have been working on a lathemacine many years ago. Is there any benefit using a FZR wheel instead of a gsxr wheel? and isent the gsxr wheel swap easier?
My lathe is nothing special, just an old mid 50's Atlas TH42 that I restored mechanically and made a few functional upgrades to (variable speed DC motor, cross slide, etc). The thing that makes it as capable as it is is the amount of tooling and accessories I have collected for it over the years. Iirc, I paid a G for the lathe and have at least that much (or more) into the tooling.
Fzr wheels are an exact match (style wise) to the FJ wheels. The GSXR wheels are very close in appearance to the FJ wheels, so much so that most probably wouldn't see any difference without getting right up on them to look. If you did front and rear 'zuki wheels, I doubt anyone would notice anything who wasn't an FJ nut or happened to notice "suzuki" cast on the rim spokes.
But I'm a "stickler" for details, so it was the FZR wheels or nothing for me.
:)
I think I'll call that done:
(https://i17.servimg.com/u/f17/19/98/07/74/fe11de10.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19980774/420)
Can't image getting the chain alignment getting much better than that!
Chain running dead center on the sprockets.
That s with th cush drive installed, but still needing the sprocket carrier bearing to wheel bearing spacer. Thats easy peasy; just stick a ball of clay in there, compress, measure and cut one down to fit.
Oh yeah, I'll also have to reinstall the sprocket mounting studs. I removed them for the machining work.
:)
I know this is a really stupid question....but......are you sure the sprocket nuts won't catch on the swing arm ? The sprocket looks awfully close to the arm - it appears quite a bit closer than mine does (might just be an optical illusion) and mine only just clear the arm.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/11/6213_27_02_19_4_43_16.jpeg)
Dean, which wheel/swingarm combo are you using?
Joe
Quote from: Millietant on February 27, 2019, 04:47:37 PM
I know this is a really stupid question....but......are you sure the sprocket nuts won't catch on the swing arm ? The sprocket looks awfully close to the arm - it appears quite a bit closer than mine does (might just be an optical illusion) and mine only just clear the arm.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/11/6213_27_02_19_4_43_16.jpeg)
Yup, they clear just fine. Haven't measured, but I'd eyeball it at about 4-5mm clearance. I cit it with the studs in the carrier and then removed the studs to center the chain on the sprocket.
Quote from: Tuned forks on February 27, 2019, 05:05:51 PM
Dean, which wheel/swingarm combo are you using?
Joe
Looks like the FJ swingarm from what I can see in that pic...
"Unicorn" anyone?
(https://i17.servimg.com/u/f17/19/98/07/74/47bce110.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19980774/425)
(https://i17.servimg.com/u/f17/19/98/07/74/cb872410.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19980774/424)
Will be starting the front wheel swap shortly. Obviously, lots of cosmetic work to do as well. I'll start with just stripping the red paint off and the start fitting it.
:)
Quote from: great white on February 27, 2019, 05:24:21 PM
Quote from: Tuned forks on February 27, 2019, 05:05:51 PM
Dean, which wheel/swingarm combo are you using?
Joe
Looks like the FJ swingarm from what I can see in that pic...
Joe/Great White - it's a YZF 600 R Thundercat wheel with all ancillaries (Cush/carrier/disc/caliper mount arm, spacers etc) in a standard 3CV swinging arm and spindle.
Like G-W I wanted the wheel/brake set-up to look totally Yamaha factory original and I reckon I've achieved that, in spades.
The other benefit of using the Thundercat wheel is that other than taking 8mm off the caliper arm and a bit of machining the on the spacer/sprocket side, there was no other "mechanical/machining" work needed (other than turning the sprocket around so that the shoulder is on the inside and getting a 1"" longer brake hose).
I reckon this swap is by far the easiest, keeps everything looking the most original and keeps the standard torque arm etc. People say the GSXR is the easiest, but with relocating the caliper etc and remounting the torque arm, I reckon there's a lot more work involved in the GSXR swap - and it doesn't keep any "Yamaha" originality.
(Sorry it's a bit mucky now, I've done about 2.5k miles since the conversion was sompleted)
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/11/6213_27_02_19_6_15_02.jpeg)
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/11/6213_27_02_19_6_14_06.jpeg)
Yes, the YZF600 was my first wheel swap. Jon Cain, the pioneer of the swap, helped with the machine work on the cush drive, spacer and caliper arm. It's only a 5" wide rim but perfect for the 170 back tire.
Here's more info: http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=2511.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=2511.0)
Now.....Back to Great White's project!
Undoing the decades of "sin" by previous owners:
(https://i17.servimg.com/u/f17/19/98/07/74/4c352810.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19980774/426)
Luckily, there appears to be very few blemishes on the rims under the multiple layers of paint. So far, everything I've found will buff out.
I gotta say: I know my FJ rims came painted silver/gray, but I'm digging the bare cast center and polished rim lip look...
After first application of stripper:
(https://i.servimg.com/u/f17/19/98/07/74/9f1aa610.jpg)
Yessir, that's going to clean up nicely!
:)
OK. I'm going to rant here and I'll straight up say "tree huggers" probably aren't going to like it.
The first side of the rim stripped beautifully. There were only a few small spots where a hint of pint was still visible and a second coating of stripper would have cleared it right up. But I was out of stripper, having just finished off an old can I had in the cabinet.
So I went to the store and bought another can. The stuff I had was discontinued and all they had was "new generation" stripper. I didn't put a lot of thought into it, other than it was more expensive than the old stuff. The claims on the can were the same as the old stripper (removes 5 paint layers at once, etc), so there was no reason to think it wasn't going to work like the old stuff.
I got home and laid it out on the other side of the rim.
Nada.
The red paint barely budged. It took 5 applications to get any of the paint off! And the paint that did come off turned into some kind of red/pink slurry that ran down on to the previously stripped side and stuck there!
WTF?!?!?!?!
I grab the old empty can and read the ingredients. Chemical names are different than the new can.
Now, let me be clear; I've got no issues with changing products to be more environmentally friendly (I want my daughter to have a world to live in once I'm gone), but they've still got to WORK. This crap is more expensive and doesn't even do half the job. In fact, it made the job it worse.
A quick google reveals that the products in the old stripper are essentially "outlawed" in the US, Canada and the EU. Specifically, the chlorofluorocarbon Dichloromethane (or methylene chloride if you prefer). This is the active ingredient in the old paint strippers that worked so well.
But being a CFC, it's now the "tool of the devil" and the cause of everything that's wrong in the world today. Don't get me wrong; I don't disagree that CFC's are a problem for the environment, but they still have uses in the modern world, just in limited quantities.
Talking to a few retailers revealed that it was indeed discontinued and they could only get the "green" stripper now. They candidly admitted that the new stuff is almost useless compared to the old stuff. They also said while they couldn't get it anymore, they were still allowed to sell existing stock until it was gone.
Aha! I jump in the truck and hit the smaller hardware stores around me. I get lucky and hit a place that still has stuff on the shelf with Dichloromethane and tolulene in it. I grab the 6 cans that were on the shelf and head out the door. I find a few more at another store. So I've got a stock of about 10 liters in total.
I get home and apply it to the rim where the paint still sits, essentially unaffected by the "green" stripper. This stuff is liquid instead of a gel, so it's a little more difficult to work with on a rim. But not even 5 seconds later, the paint is bubbling and curling up off the metal. The paint "slurry" that ruined the already stripped side just wipes off.
For the "health police" that may be reading, I wear a VOC respirator when using stripping products (or anything with VOC's) anywhere but outside in fresh air. Learned long ago when working with aircraft products (almost exclusively VOC compounds) that you need to protect yourself or suffer the consequences.
So I've now got a stock of paint stripper again that actually works. I'll pick up a few more cans if I run across them, but what I have now should last me until I'm no longer going to be working on stuff (refinishing furniture, rims, etc).
You can outlaw harmful stuff, you can make green stuff, and you can even charge more for it. But at the end of the day, it's still got to do the job or it's worthless. In fact, you end up using so much more of it trying to do the same job, it could potentially be worse for the environment than the old stuff. I have no evidence of that, that's just my opinion.
They need to go back to the drawing board and make something that actually strips paint if they are going to sell it as paint stripper.....
:Facepalm:
Welcome to the Ocasio-Cortez New Green Deal.
Quote from: ZOA NOM on March 01, 2019, 11:20:54 AM
Welcome to the Ocasio-Cortez New Green Deal.
Nope, my dogs not in that fight:
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/11/4839_01_03_19_8_07_32.gif)
I have no desire to comment on USA politics whatsoever...:)
I feel your pain. Many cans of the new stuff have come and gone from my garage but nothing works like methylene chloride. I paint occasionally and knew an older painter. He once said to me that the old paints were bad for the environment but safe for the painter and the new paints were safe for the environment but killed the painters.
Joe
The low VOC stripper (and paint) is all we can get here in Calif.... it's been that way for years now.
The stripper I get at my local Ace Hardware works ok when I use it with my cordless drill and rotary wire brush along with a face shield, long sleeves and gloves. It does take multiple applications and scrubbing.
On the 5 FZR rims that done, I just Simichrome polish the machined surfaces and let the pebble surfaces patina naturally to a medium gray color.
Quote from: great white on March 01, 2019, 09:53:17 AM
...... and all they had was "new generation" stripper......
Yep, been down that path. Not worth a cracker, you may as breath heavily on it, it would be about as effective. I have occasionally bought the environmentally friendly product by mistake and thrown it straight in the bin.
I have come to the conclusion that any product, household cleaners are a good example, that claims to be environmentally friendly, mentions "earth" in it's name or has pictures of trees or rivers on the front, won't work.
We are fortunate here that at least we can still buy the potent stuff.
Noel
You definitely want to be careful using "the good stuff." The very properties that make it good at dissolving paint are the things that make it bad to inhale or absorb through your skin. Ventilation is important, but so is barrier protection (rubber gloves.) A bead-blast cabinet is a hassle, but so is liver cancer.
Quote from: Bill_Rockoff on March 02, 2019, 12:31:59 PM
You definitely want to be careful using "the good stuff." The very properties that make it good at dissolving paint are the things that make it bad to inhale or absorb through your skin. Ventilation is important, but so is barrier protection (rubber gloves.) A bead-blast cabinet is a hassle, but so is liver cancer.
Not a problem, I've got a handle on it. Worked with all manner of deadly stuff my whole life. Still here, no problems.
Dichlor is in the category of "neurotoxin", so it's nothing to be triffled with....kill ya dead if you're not careful or at the very lest, eff you up something fierce.
:shok:
Years back I was bleeding the front brakes and a drop of brake fluid landed unnoticed on the rim edge, came back later and saw a nice shiny surface underneath the paint which I liked, so ended up painting the edges of both wheels with it. Worked very well. :good2:
Quote from: Pat Conlon on March 02, 2019, 01:03:07 AM
I just Simichrome polish the machined surfaces and let the pebble surfaces patina naturally to a medium gray color.
I wonder where I've seen that done before?
With the rear wheel, brakes and swingarm sorted, time to start the front wheel:
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/11/4839_18_03_19_3_20_11_1.jpeg)
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/11/4839_18_03_19_3_20_11_1.jpeg)
This part is simple though. It's the "unobtanium" wheel - 1988 FZR750R.
Slots right in. Don't even have to change the wheel bearings.
Perfect match to the FZR1000 rear wheel too!
:)
Whoops, the second pic was supposed to be this one:
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/11/4839_18_03_19_3_20_09_0.jpeg)
Looks like it belongs there. A natural fit.
Quote from: Bones on March 02, 2019, 03:27:47 PM
Years back I was bleeding the front brakes and a drop of brake fluid landed unnoticed on the rim edge, came back later and saw a nice shiny surface underneath the paint which I liked, so ended up painting the edges of both wheels with it. Worked very well. :good2:
Nice, I've wondered about using brake fluid as a stripper.
Oh yeah:
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/11/4839_20_03_19_12_03_13.jpeg)
That looks damn good!
Just enough to look like 80's exotica without making it look out of the period.
Thats a battalax 120/50zr17 on there. A little bit of a short sidewall for an FJ, but I had some extras lying around. If nothing else, this will at let me roll the bike around.
:)