Hi I have taken the brakes lines off my 1986 FJ1200 and ran dual lines cutting out the splitter and anti dive. Do I have to block the holes where the anti dive lines use to be?. Also I had to take my forks apart to have the seals done and now my speedo isn't registering the correct speed. I am doing 30 and it shows about 15. Is there a certain way the speedo hub thing (technical word ) has to go back in? But on the bright side i had the carbs rebuild and new jets .Also carbs where synced and bike was on the dyno and managed 120 to the crank. Happy days
The Speedo drive does have a specific way of mounting in the wheel and also to the fork. In the photo, #6 is a keyed washer/spacer that has slots 180° apart. There are notches in the Speedo drive that line up with the slots. That is how the wheel turns the inner drive of the Speedo drive assembly. 2nd is... there are 2 raised parts on the top of the Speedo drive. A notch on the inner side of the left fork leg is captured there. Line up all of that and you should be all set.
Thank you so much I shall take it apart and make sure it's all correctly put together
When blocking off the anti-dive units, the block off plate must allow the oil to flow between the two holes. This requires a plate to be drilled and counter sunk for o-rings. I bought special aluminum blocks from a guy on the RZ500 website but that was many many years ago...don't know if he is still doing that. I replaced my '85 forks and may still have the blocks out in the barn. If interested let me know and I'll see if I can find them.
Quote from: Scottie1 on February 06, 2019, 03:28:17 PMHi I have taken the brakes lines off my 1986 FJ1200 and ran dual lines cutting out the splitter and anti dive. Do I have to block the holes where the anti dive lines use to be?. Also I had to take my forks apart to have the seals done and now my speedo isn't registering the correct speed. I am doing 30 and it shows about 15.
Scottie,
If you do not remove the anti-dive units, and just disconnect the brake hoses, there is no need to seal the brake hose holes where the hoses were. You can cap the holes with any cap, or glue in any short bolt (for appearances only), but nothing will leak. If you remove the anti-dive units entirely, the block-off plates must have an oil passage (of sufficient size) between the large holes to allow the suspension to operate. With no hoses connected, you can easily invert each anti-dive unit on each fork, for a somewhat better appearance, with no problems. The last time I checked, block-off plates for the FJ forks cost about US$125.00 per pair, and only one guy made them.
In the USA, Amazon sells various GPS speedometers (no odometer function) for US$20.00 ~US$30.00 and up ('way up). They will read out in kilometers or miles. They are very accurate, matching the readouts of automatic speed-radar displays rather closely. They are somewhat inaccurate on very sharp curves, but you should be riding the road, not the meter, then.
Quote from: red on February 07, 2019, 08:23:52 AM
The last time I checked, block-off plates for the FJ forks cost about US$125.00 per pair, and only one guy made them.
Or, for the low low price of $0.00 US (0.00 UKP, 0.00 EU, or 0.00 $AU) you coiuld simply drill a couple of 5/16" holes in the damper rod just above the "step" where the wave washers and tapered spindle seat. Easy to do since you've got the fork apart anyway.
This allows oil to bypass the A/D unit. These instructions come from Race Tech for installing their fork valves.
Quote from: FJ_Hooligan on February 07, 2019, 10:10:11 AM
Quote from: red on February 07, 2019, 08:23:52 AMThe last time I checked, block-off plates for the FJ forks cost about US$125.00 per pair, and only one guy made them.
Or, for the low low price of $0.00 US (0.00 UKP, 0.00 EU, or 0.00 $AU) you coiuld simply drill a couple of 5/16" holes in the damper rod just above the "step" where the wave washers and tapered spindle seat. Easy to do since you've got the fork apart anyway. This allows oil to bypass the A/D unit. These instructions come from Race Tech for installing their fork valves.
Hooligan,
I musta missed it. Where does the OP say he has the forks apart, enough to drill the damper rod? Would flat block-off plates (with no oil passages) work, if the damper rod was drilled? Got any pix (or links) for the drilled damper rod?
Quote from: Scottie1 on February 06, 2019, 03:28:17 PM
Hi I have taken the brakes lines off my 1986 FJ1200 and ran dual lines cutting out the splitter and anti dive. Do I have to block the holes where the anti dive lines use to be?.
No, the brake line that went into the anti dive unit does not need to be blocked off at the unit. You can even unbolt the top portion of the anti unit and then remove the entire anti dive unit. Flip the anti dive unit upside down and re install. This prevents water from pooling and corroding through the top by leaving the original unit right side up. And it also puts the knob that was on the bottom at the top. This gives it a "stock" type look or kinda like it should be there. Unless you look at the bottom and realize it is doing nothing anymore.
Scottie,
There is one more option, if you really want the Anti-Dive units gone, which would be to obtain forks from later model FJs that will fit, but do not have any trace of the old anti-dive units. If you monitor eBay and similar buy/sell sites for a few months, you will probably get a better front fork assembly, and for less money, than the commercial block-off plates would cost.
Around here, we call this creeping escalation of FJ modifications "mod-itis." It often starts simply, with a spin-on oil filter adapter, so you can use convenient automotive oil filters. Then it progresses through suspension, brakes, 17" wheels, and even instruments. Many of us struggle to control these spendy urges.
:biggrin:
In the case of replacing the front forks, you might want to replace the entire triple-tree clamp, steering head, handlebars, forks, and brakes, with a 17" front wheel thrown in as a bargain. Places like eBay can help to ease the wallet-discomfort of such mods, where you can often find entire front-end assemblies for sale cheap.
The 16" wheels will limit you to only a few tire brands (the best of which, IMHO, would probably be the Avon radials, or Pirelli Sport Demons). Great tires can make a world of difference with the FJ. Your bike may already have 17" wheels, from a prior owner.
Red
Bad reading comprehension on my part. He said: "Also I had to take my forks apart to have the seals done and now my speedo isn't registering the correct speed."
I guess I quit processing before realizing they must be back together for him to notice the speedo error. Sorry for the confusion.
I'll try to find the documentation about drilling the damper rods. Would be good to have it in the files. The problem is I did this almost 20 years ago.
How about a link instead?
http://www.racetech.com/page/title/Damping%20Rod%20Gallery (http://www.racetech.com/page/title/Damping%20Rod%20Gallery)
I have found 1992 forks ,wheel and rotors that i am going to get. Also just purchased blue dot and early FJR1300 brake and clutch masters from Ebay. The speedo i shall sort out once i finish the swap. Thank you all for your input and ideas.
Good move on the '92 forks/rotors/rim. Kudos! :good:
With the lighter front rim and tire you will find your steering enhanced.
Do plan on upgrading the '92 fork internals. You will not be happy with those oem .475 kg/mm springs.
A 14mm master cylinder will enhance the lever feel on your blue spot monoblock calipers.
Finally, a RPM fork brace will be the frosting on the cake.
Yummy!
Man Pat,
You can spend other peoples money faster than my wife, or the Democrats. :-)
Pat, why is the '92 wheel lighter than what he has?
Joe
Joe, I'm not sure but I have one of each with tyres on and just picked them up out of interest. BIG difference. Could be all the extra rubber.
Troyskie
Hey David, I'd sure hate to have him do all this work only to use his oem 5/8" m/c and have his new brakes feel like shit, or when on the brakes, have the front forks collapse with those weak sauce oem '92 fork springs.
Hey Joe, it's not just the front rim, but All 3 components of the front assembly are lighter:
1) '89-95 oem FJ 17" front rim uses a hollow 3 spoke design so it's lighter than the early cast 16" rim.
2) '89-95 oem single face rotors are lighter than the early oem dual faced vented rotors, even better if you use eBay Arashi wave style rotors which are even lighter still.
3) The 120/70-17 radial tire is lighter than the 120/80-16 bias ply donut.
How much lighter?
Knew you would ask....thru the years we've weighed the rims/tires/rotors several times but I can't recall a specific number....I want to say 6 lbs lighter but not sure.
Someone will have to search. It's jammy time for me...yawn.
One last thought...remember for every ounce of weight savings is equivalent to 24lbs when that tire is spinning at 100mph.
On seeing Pats post after my last reply, I would be remiss if I didn't pinch the scales from the house and weigh those pesky wheels seeing as I have all the combos mentioned (sort of).
FJ Owners disclaimer, these scales are cheap shit from Kmart and are NOT accurate (thanks China! and you lowest price wins master degree purchasing mongrels). The weights pictured are the most consistent measures (each wheel went on half a dozen times and I deleted most of the photos), but the piece of shit is not accurate (it was however, very cheap).
Anyhoo, here are the numbers, supported by photos. Also all the wheels had tyres (well worn), discs (I have no diarrhea I mean idea), and sprockets bla bla.
Wheel 1, 16" front (84-85?) with some massive after market discs....13.9kg (30.58lb)
Wheel 2, 17" front with oem discs....12.4kg (26.4lb)
Wheel 3, 16" rear 84-86(?), with after market disc....18.9kg (41.58lb)
Wheel 4, 16" rear 3 spoke, after market disc....16.4kg (36.08lb)
Wheel 5, 17" rear 17" FZR(?) 5.5", with wave disc (no idea of mfg), 14.7kg (32.34lb)
My only question is when will civvy US catch up to mil US and go metric? The performance difference between 16" and 17" is very clear (oh shit, I just realised I used antique, not current :sarcastic: language), I also just realised I'm using the Aussie version of Windows (Windaz) it has a 'Start you c@nt!' button :).
I'm also an antique as I still call emojis 'smilies'...
Thanks Troy!
Back in 2010 I was working on Paul's '92 putting a new tire on the back while also doing my FJ so, seeing as though I had both wheels off at the same time why not weigh them to see the difference? Same POS bathroom scale.
Paul's 92 had the oem 16" 3 spoke rim/rotor/sprocket/150/80-16 tire = 41 lbs
My bike had the 17"x 5.5" Thunder Ace rim/wave rotor/sprocket and 180/55-17 tire = 36 lbs
I was close on the 16" vs 17" front wheel huh?
Quote from: Pat Conlon on October 25, 2018, 07:48:29 PM
8 years ago, I measured a 5 lb difference in weight between the 1992 oem 3 spoke 16" FJ rear wheel/tire assembly and my 1997 YZF1000 17" wheel/tire assembly.
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=1885.msg14921#msg14921 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=1885.msg14921#msg14921)
Remember, the 3 spoke Yamaha rims were lighter than the early design FJ rims so the 5 lb difference would be even greater comparing my T-ace wheel/tire assembly to a early FJ 16" wheel/tire assembly.
I'll bet a jelly donut that if you compared a early FJ 16" front wheel/tire assembly (w/oem rotors) with a 17" FZR wheel/tire assembly (w/Ashai rotors) you will also save ~5 lbs in weight.
Is 5 lbs of weight savings really such a big deal?
It is when you are at kookaloo speed: 16oz x 5 = 80oz x 25 = 2,000 lbs spinning around @100 mph.
http://www.hardracing.com/Rims/WheelWeightInfo.htm (http://www.hardracing.com/Rims/WheelWeightInfo.htm)
Very close mate!
Quote from: Pat Conlon on February 09, 2019, 01:35:34 AM
One last thought...remember for every ounce of weight savings is equivalent to 24lbs when that tire is spinning at 100mph.
Hey Pat, in the interest of curiosity,could you elaborate on that? is it simply because of the centrifugal force? Or in what capacity is the weight multiplied?
Ryan, think gyroscope... https://science.howstuffworks.com/gyroscope1.htm
Hi Ryan, yep, as Mark said, think of a gyroscope....did they have those toys when you were young?
Lots of good stuff on the 'net on the advantages of light weight motorcycle wheels on static and dynamic loads
Quote from: Troyskie on February 09, 2019, 03:19:00 AM
Wheel 1, 16" front (84-85?) with some massive after market discs....13.9kg (30.58lb)
Wheel 2, 17" front with oem discs....12.4kg (26.4lb)
Wheel 3, 16" rear 84-86(?), with after market disc....18.9kg (41.58lb)
Wheel 4, 16" rear 3 spoke, after market disc....16.4kg (36.08lb)
Wheel 5, 17" rear 17" FZR(?) 5.5", with wave disc (no idea of mfg), 14.7kg (32.34lb)
I'm having my own data. These are the ones collected so far and there are significant differences with yours, I don't know why
Front 16" complete 12,8 kg (Spanish mag MOTOCICLISMO weighted 12,6 kg) STD discs
17" complete 13,1 kg (FZR 1000 3,5") STD discs
Rear rim only, without sprocket carrier & disc 1TX/1100 16" 6,1 kg
(the same parts for the 3 of them) 3CV 16" 6,4 kg (it was really a surprise!)
FZR 1000 18" 7,6 kg (even more surprised)
I have still to weight again my complete GSXR 5,5x17 rim fitted in my 3CV (+-12 kg) and the complete 16" STD rear rim in my 1TX (MOTOCICLISMO 16,3 kg)
So with OE rims, 1100s and 1200 1TX have less non-suspended weight than with FZR rims
Alf, my scales are just cheap ones. I did repeat weigh them to see if the same number came up, but still the load cell in these cheap scales is unlikely to be accurate.
Well, mine are not too accurate, but the comparative with the mag gives me a little reliability
Its true that comparing 2 FJs with FZR 17" rim one of them, and with the GSXR rim the other you can feel the difference between suspended weight: the SACS rim mounted FJ feels shorter and more flickable than the FZR fitted bike