Anti dive/speedo

[Scottie1]

Hi I have taken the brakes lines off my 1986 FJ1200 and ran dual lines cutting out the splitter and anti dive. Do I have to block the holes where the anti dive lines use to be?. Also I had to take my forks apart to have the seals done and now my speedo isn't registering the correct speed. I am doing 30 and it shows about 15. Is there a certain way the speedo hub thing (technical word ) has to go back in? But on the bright side i had the carbs rebuild and new jets .Also carbs where synced and bike was on the dyno and managed 120 to the crank. Happy days

[aviationfred]

The Speedo drive does have a specific way of mounting in the wheel and also to the fork. In the photo, #6 is a keyed washer/spacer that has slots 180° apart. There are notches in the Speedo drive that line up with the slots. That is how the wheel turns the inner drive of the Speedo drive assembly. 2nd is... there are 2 raised parts on the top of the Speedo drive. A notch on the inner side of the left fork leg is captured there. Line up all of that and you should be all set. 

[Scottie1]

Thank you so much I shall take it apart and make sure it's all correctly put together

[Motofun]

When blocking off the anti-dive units, the block off plate must allow the oil to flow between the two holes.  This requires a plate to be drilled and counter sunk for o-rings.  I bought special aluminum blocks from a guy on the RZ500 website but that was many many years ago...don't know if he is still doing that.  I replaced my '85 forks and may still have the blocks out in the barn.  If interested let me know and I'll see if I can find them.

[red]

Hi I have taken the brakes lines off my 1986 FJ1200 and ran dual lines cutting out the splitter and anti dive. Do I have to block the holes where the anti dive lines use to be?. Also I had to take my forks apart to have the seals done and now my speedo isn't registering the correct speed. I am doing 30 and it shows about 15.

Scottie,

If you do not remove the anti-dive units, and just disconnect the brake hoses, there is no need to seal the brake hose holes where the hoses were.  You can cap the holes with any cap, or glue in any short bolt (for appearances only), but nothing will leak.  If you remove the anti-dive units entirely, the block-off plates must have an oil passage (of sufficient size) between the large holes to allow the suspension to operate.  With no hoses connected, you can easily invert each anti-dive unit on each fork, for a somewhat better appearance, with no problems.  The last time I checked, block-off plates for the FJ forks cost about US$125.00 per pair, and only one guy made them.

In the USA, Amazon sells various GPS speedometers (no odometer function) for US$20.00 ~US$30.00 and up ('way up).  They will read out in kilometers or miles.  They are very accurate, matching the readouts of automatic speed-radar displays rather closely.  They are somewhat inaccurate on very sharp curves, but you should be riding the road, not the meter, then.

[FJ_Hooligan]

The last time I checked, block-off plates for the FJ forks cost about US$125.00 per pair, and only one guy made them.

Or, for the low low price of $0.00 US (0.00 UKP, 0.00 EU, or 0.00 $AU) you coiuld simply drill a couple of 5/16" holes in the damper rod just above the "step" where the wave washers and tapered spindle seat.  Easy to do since you've got the fork apart anyway.

This allows oil to bypass the A/D unit.  These instructions come from Race Tech for installing their fork valves.

[red]

The last time I checked, block-off plates for the FJ forks cost about US$125.00 per pair, and only one guy made them.

Or, for the low low price of $0.00 US (0.00 UKP, 0.00 EU, or 0.00 $AU) you coiuld simply drill a couple of 5/16" holes in the damper rod just above the "step" where the wave washers and tapered spindle seat.  Easy to do since you've got the fork apart anyway.  This allows oil to bypass the A/D unit.  These instructions come from Race Tech for installing their fork valves.

Hooligan,

I musta missed it.  Where does the OP say he has the forks apart, enough to drill the damper rod?  Would flat block-off plates (with no oil passages) work, if the damper rod was drilled?  Got any pix (or links) for the drilled damper rod?

[RPM - Robert]

Hi I have taken the brakes lines off my 1986 FJ1200 and ran dual lines cutting out the splitter and anti dive. Do I have to block the holes where the anti dive lines use to be?.

No, the brake line that went into the anti dive unit does not need to be blocked off at the unit. You can even unbolt the top portion of the anti unit and then remove the entire anti dive unit. Flip the anti dive unit upside down and re install. This prevents water from pooling and corroding through the top by leaving the original unit right side up. And it also puts the knob that was on the bottom at the top. This gives it a "stock" type look or kinda like it should be there. Unless you look at the bottom and realize it is doing nothing anymore.

[red]

Scottie,

There is one more option, if you really want the Anti-Dive units gone, which would be to obtain forks from later model FJs that will fit, but do not have any trace of the old anti-dive units.  If you monitor eBay and similar buy/sell sites for a few months, you will probably get a better front fork assembly, and for less money, than the commercial block-off plates would cost.

Around here, we call this creeping escalation of FJ modifications "mod-itis."  It often starts simply, with a spin-on oil filter adapter, so you can use convenient automotive oil filters.  Then it progresses through suspension, brakes, 17" wheels, and even instruments.  Many of us struggle to control these spendy urges.
       
In the case of replacing the front forks, you might want to replace the entire triple-tree clamp, steering head, handlebars, forks, and brakes, with a 17" front wheel thrown in as a bargain.  Places like eBay can help to ease the wallet-discomfort of such mods, where you can often find entire front-end assemblies for sale cheap. 

The 16" wheels will limit you to only a few tire brands (the best of which, IMHO, would probably be the Avon radials, or Pirelli Sport Demons).  Great tires can make a world of difference with the FJ.  Your bike may already have 17" wheels, from a prior owner.

[FJ_Hooligan]

Red

Bad reading comprehension on my part.  He said: "Also I had to take my forks apart to have the seals done and now my speedo isn't registering the correct speed."

I guess I quit processing before realizing they must be back together for him to notice the speedo error.  Sorry for the confusion.

I'll try to find the documentation about drilling the damper rods.  Would be good to have it in the files.  The problem is I did this almost 20 years ago.

How about a link instead?

http://www.racetech.com/page/title/Damping%20Rod%20Gallery

[Scottie1]

I have found 1992 forks ,wheel and rotors that i am going to get. Also just purchased blue dot and early FJR1300 brake and clutch masters from Ebay. The speedo i shall sort out once i finish the swap. Thank you all for your input and ideas.

[Pat Conlon]

Good move on the '92 forks/rotors/rim. Kudos!

With the lighter front rim and tire you will find your steering enhanced.

Do plan on upgrading the '92 fork internals. You will not be happy with those oem .475 kg/mm springs.

A 14mm master cylinder will enhance the lever feel on your blue spot monoblock calipers.

Finally, a RPM fork brace will be the frosting on the cake.

Yummy!

[FJ_Hooligan]

Man Pat,
You can spend other peoples money faster than my wife, or the Democrats.  :-)

[Tuned forks]

Pat, why is the '92 wheel lighter than what he has?

Joe

[Troyskie]

Joe, I'm not sure but I have one of each with tyres on and just picked them up out of interest. BIG difference. Could be all the extra rubber.

Troyskie