Ive had this belly pan since January 2017 couldn't install due to clearance issues.black widow came threw and redesigned Thier product and made them a more modern look.very cool
FIFY. :biggrin:
Thank you.the belly pan is a accomplishment.its been painted and setting dor almost 2 years
Actually I'm eye balling that exhaust. Nice. Delkevic?
But what was the issue with the belly pan in the first place?
The headers wernt tight enough to the block.after weeks of pondering exhaust choices I contected them they assured me this issue was resolved and they did a outstanding job.everything fit effortlessly.the belly pan and exhaust clear very well
Happy 4th of july fjowners members
One hour of riding and these pipes are doing this
#3 is looking a bit lean, the gold color is awesome!
Fj12 monkey you are correct and its worse as I rode today the pipes are ugly now
I polished my stainless pipes to almost a chrome finish. One ride down the road and they look like yours. Unfortunatly its just the way of stainless steel. One option is to get them ceramic coated. Easy to clean, looks good and helps with heat.
Mark
I'm thinking thats why oem headers are coated flat black.keeping the carbs running at a constant air Fuel mixture is almost impossible
I am not so sure the discoloration is from a lean condition.
If you zoom in and look closely at the tubes, you can see the tube is the same golden brown at the flange. The color below the bend look very uniform.
Mike, if you did not wipe the headers down with a lacquer thinner or acetone, I believe the discoloration is from the oils on the outside of the metal.
It appears very clearly they appear to be liquid drops on the #3 tube at the bend.
In the installation directions for the RPM header, it specifically advises to clean the oils before starting the engine or there will be discoloration like you see there.
Mike I also see some cuts on the inside flanges of the chin fairing. Was that from when you were trying to fit it with the original BW headers or were some clearance required for this set too?
The bike does look great in the patio with the flags the background.
Randy - RPM
I did not wipe the headers down.and #2 and #3 were installed first.this was right after I left work.I did put latex gloves on for 1 and 4 as I began to perspire a lot in this heat wave.very cool info thank you
Yes those cuts were from my previous headers,trying to make the pan fit.very keen eye randy
I also need a drain plug crush washer.I can't see paying $8 shipping for a 99 cent part.as I have a slight oil leak
Quote from: Mike m on July 04, 2018, 08:06:09 PMI also need a drain plug crush washer.I can't see paying $8 shipping for a 99 cent part.as I have a slight oil leak
Mike M,
The next time you remove the oil drain plug, clean it thoroughly with paper towels and brake cleaner (solvent). Wipe the oil drain hole clean with paper towels and solvent a few times, also. RTV (Room Temperature Vulcanizing) sealant will prevent any leaks in the future. Coat the crush washer top and bottom, and fill the oil plug threads (not the crankcase threads) with RTV. Install the drain plug normally, to some reasonable torque value. The sealant also acts like thread locker, but it never goes fully hard, so you can easily remove the oil drain plug at any later date. Do not use so much RTV that it gets into the crankcase, of course.
I believe that Volkswagen dealers (and maybe decent auto parts stores) will have an oil drain crush washer that matches the Yamaha crush washer, but take the old one in with you, for comparison.
I'd like to put in a plug (<-a pun! My word!) right here for magnetic oil drain plugs. They can be had on eBay, and other on-line outlets. Most magnetic oil drain plugs will come pre-drilled for aircraft-standard 0.032" (0,8 mm) safety wire. Sometimes people ask if I worry about the oil drain plug coming loose when riding, when they see my safety wire. I always smile and say No.
.
Thanks red.I'm gonna go to 15/40 oil shortly.my bike uses no oil anymore so these drips accumulate over a few days.when I change oil AGAIN ill fix
This is the best I can get for a picture of my supertrap ceramic coated stainless headers. Thousands and thousands of miles. Only cleaning I've done is to spray off the chunks. It's chrome look ceramic. Came polished. I didn't do it for looks. Ceramic coated All of my head pipes on my fjs. To give the belly pans any help against heat damage that I could...
Quote from: Mike m on July 04, 2018, 08:06:09 PM
I also need a drain plug crush washer.I can't see paying $8 shipping for a 99 cent part.as I have a slight oil leak
I have plenty of them, I can mail you a couple.
The only problem, I have multiple sizes and bikes, don't remember which is which -
Just let me know size and where to mail them.
No worries
Quote from: FJ1200W on July 29, 2018, 09:35:03 AMQuote from: Mike m on July 04, 2018, 08:06:09 PM
I also need a drain plug crush washer.I can't see paying $8 shipping for a 99 cent part.as I have a slight oil leak
I have plenty of them, I can mail you a couple. The only problem, I have multiple sizes and bikes, don't remember which is which - Just let me know size and where to mail them. No worries
FJ1200W,
Now if we knew what year of FJ it is, that MIKE M has there, we could decode his oil drain plug Part Number, to get the size of his plug. 8)
Yamaha Parts Number Decoder (click and scroll down)
https://yamahaclub.com/forums/topic/29981-part-number-decoding/ (https://yamahaclub.com/forums/topic/29981-part-number-decoding/)
.
Quote from: Mike m on July 04, 2018, 02:48:06 PM
One hour of riding and these pipes are doing this
Stainless Steel does this with heat. It will turn a golden color and the bends near the head will eventually turn an ugly brown color.
Red, and FJ1200W, Mike's FJ is a 1986 model to answer the question as to which oil drain plug crush washer he needs is.
Yamaha Part Number 214-11198-01-00 for the crush washer.
Fred
Quote from: aviationfred on July 29, 2018, 11:19:46 PMQuote from: Mike m on July 04, 2018, 02:48:06 PM
One hour of riding and these pipes are doing this
Stainless Steel does this with heat. It will turn a golden color and the bends near the head will eventually turn an ugly brown color. Red, and FJ1200W, Mike's FJ is a 1986 model to answer the question as to which oil drain plug crush washer he needs is.
Yamaha Part Number 214-11198-01-00 for the crush washer.
Fred
Fred,
The Parts Number Decoder linked above is for bolts, for most instances. Other parts, I can't say.
.
I'm still using the original oil drain screw crush washer from 1985.
Is that bad?
Which oil is compatible with the original washer? I'm thinking the Fully Semi-Auto Synthetic oil would be best. :-)
Quote from: FJ_Hooligan on July 30, 2018, 03:16:47 PM
I'm still using the original oil drain screw crush washer from 1985.
Is that bad?
Nah, I also have the same sump plug washer my bike came with, a 180,000km ago!
Noel
Quote from: ribbert on July 31, 2018, 08:24:28 AM
Quote from: FJ_Hooligan on July 30, 2018, 03:16:47 PM
I'm still using the original oil drain screw crush washer from 1985.
Is that bad?
Nah, I also have the same sump plug washer my bike came with, a 180,000km ago!
Noel
Yes. But he's using FS-AS oil the older washers R not compatible. :Facepalm:
Quote from: aviationfred on July 29, 2018, 11:19:46 PMRed, and FJ1200W, Mike's FJ is a 1986 model to answer the question as to which oil drain plug crush washer he needs is. Yamaha Part Number 214-11198-01-00 for the crush washer.
Fred
Fred,
The Bolt Decoder works for bolts, not sure about washers. The oil drain bolt for a 1986 is P/N 90340-14132-00. That decodes into a 14mm bolt. VWs use the same size oil-seal crush washers on some of their stuff, so a decent auto parts store should have them at good prices. Call around.
.
Quote from: red on July 31, 2018, 08:14:57 PM
Quote from: aviationfred on July 29, 2018, 11:19:46 PMRed, and FJ1200W, Mike's FJ is a 1986 model to answer the question as to which oil drain plug crush washer he needs is. Yamaha Part Number 214-11198-01-00 for the crush washer.
Fred
Fred,
The Bolt Decoder works for bolts, not sure about washers. The oil drain bolt for a 1986 is P/N 90340-14132-00. That decodes into a 14mm bolt. VWs use the same size oil-seal crush washers on some of their stuff, so a decent auto parts store should have them at good prices. Call around.
.
Just to add a bit of perspective here and to make sure no one misses out on a ride because they can't get a new washer on the weekend, it doesn't matter!
The principle of crush washers on sump plugs hasn't changed in 100 years, the idea of changing the washer every oil change has though. The idea of the soft metal washer between two hard surfaces works repeatedly. They do eventually wear out but only after more oil changes than most of our bikes will ever see.
It used to be common (it might still be) to see sump plug washers with a slightly smaller ID than the threaded section so they couldn't come off and you wouldn't lose them.
Noel
So I switched to 15/40 Estella boy the gear shifting isn't as smooth as with 20/50 vr1.a update as rpm sent me a new oil pan with the rebuild last winter and sent a new drain plug washer which I found and installed NO MORE LEAKS for now.