Well looks like my dream has finally gotten started. I purchased the lot March of 2016. Very nice lot in the small town of Campbellsport Wisconsin. If you Google map it. It's the big green area on the south side of Ladwig st. Things have changed a bit from when I started. Slightly smaller way more expensive. But is still going to be awesome. I'll start buy posting my plans.
Awesome Dan, happy you shared the good news. That will be a sweet man cave.
Very cool Dan! :good2:
A couple of suggestions for your consideration:
1) I don't think the Building Code (IBC in Wisconsin?) will let you run your dwelling exit thru a garage
(just a hunch)
2) Why not put you bathroom between the bedrooms? That way you can design a jack and Jill style bathroom that opens into each bedroom without having to walk down the hall.
Although I do understand the economy of having a common plumbing wall with the kitchen.
What's your construction schedule? Still planning on a geothermal radiant system?
Cheers! Pat
Looks good Dan. I do like Pat's suggestion of putting the bathroom between the bedrooms. If you do keep the bathroom next to the kitchen make that wall 2x6 for all the plumbing and wiring in that wall. Your plumbers and electricians will thank you later. Good luck.
Dave
Dan,
Looks good!
Are you leaving enough room for the RV's and tents, for when you host the Annual North Central FJ Rallies?
My Dad and I were driving around Lake Dora in Mt. Dora, Florida the other day. He bicycles in that area, and has been observing various properties being built. One in particular that he wanted to show me had a semi-attached guest house/garage with room for something like 30 cars! Big house, right on the lake. More like a mansion...
If I had made better money decisions in the past, it would be mine, and I would share with all of you.
Cheers,
Steve
You are right Pat I put the bathroom by the kitchen for plumbing economy and ease of install. I have an acre lot. So plenty of room the deck off the living room is going to be lock dry aluminum makes it a roof also. Inspector already approved the design. Geo loops already in. And footings and Frost wall In yesterday.
Awesome Dan!
Keep posting the progress! :good2:
$5000 later and all I have is 2 black pipes sticking out of the ground
They are very nice black pipes though.
Cutting the curb.kinda cool. Cut right through like butter.
There seems to be much about construction that I do not know.
nice job , love that geothermal stuff . :good2:
Going tonight after work to sign the contract for 10 kw solar system. $32,000 :good:
Nice!
What's the HVAC system going to be? What brand / model are you going with? Your ground-loop guy is sure 6' will be deep enough to let you use it for heating in WI winters, I guess, and that's a lot of pipe for $5,000. I would have thought you would have needed a vertical loop, but I'm sure your installer knows local conditions way better than me.
At 10kW, you're going to be able to go off the grid, no? What's your battery capacity? What's your electrical rate? Any good utility incentives that you qualify for? buying outright and paying up front? I know industry talk has been "under two bucks a watt!" for smaller commercial-sized installations, but this is a great data point for residential-size installations.
In fact, I'd be happy to read as much detail on this construction project as you'd be willing to post.
Quote from: Bill_Rockoff on October 13, 2017, 07:46:05 AM
Nice!
What's the HVAC system going to be? What brand / model are you going with? Your ground-loop guy is sure 6' will be deep enough to let you use it for heating in WI winters, I guess, and that's a lot of pipe for $5,000. I would have thought you would have needed a vertical loop, but I'm sure your installer knows local conditions way better than me.
At 10kW, you're going to be able to go off the grid, no? What's your battery capacity? What's your electrical rate? Any good utility incentives that you qualify for? buying outright and paying up front? I know industry talk has been "under two bucks a watt!" for smaller commercial-sized installations, but this is a great data point for residential-size installations.
In fact, I'd be happy to read as much detail on this construction project as you'd be willing to post.
I'm going with a Bosch 4 ton 2 stage water to water. With desuper heater. Inslab radiant heat down stairs. 3 zones. Center always heated. South storage will be the bikes (10 right now) ATV snowmobile etc. Will be heated just enough to prevent condensation. North side parts storage. Probably won't heat. But installing radiant just in case. Upper living space will be radiant using warmboard 3 zones also. Using multiaqua water fan coils for cooling center shop and upper living space. One big one down in shop. One small one In master bedroom and another big one in the living/kitchen
The geo loop guy is the one everyone uses. He just didn't a big school In Minnesota. He is down 8' will actually be more like 10' when it's all done. All the topsoil will be spread out on that side of the property.
The solar is going to be Pika energy island system. Battery ready. But no battery yet. Battery technology is really heating up. And prices coming down. This system is as big as would fit on the upper roof. Should be close to all of my usage but don't really know yet. So will get a year of usage. And see where I'm at. The lower roof has no shading either. Even at winter solstice. A couple of friends and I cut down the three huge trees on the south side of the property. 2 Maple's and a locust. The last Maple even though we Had a truck with a cable pulling on it. Decided to rotate and go straight sideways 6"shy of the neighbors shed. It started to go backwards. Which would have put the lights out in town.
There is $2000 focus on energy rebate in Wisconsin. Plus will have net metering. At least until the utilities eliminate it. But should be grandfathered in If already running.
Woohoo I have a driveway.
Quote from: giantkiller on October 13, 2017, 09:42:10 PM... no battery yet. Battery technology is really heating up. And prices coming down.
It's like buying a computer, isn't it? "If I wait another year, I can get something 10% better for 10% less money."
Congratulations, looks like it's going to be great.
Your equipment sounds good, very nice choice with the Bosch . They work very well with very little problems.
That is going to be one sweet set up .. I like the heated floor for the FJ's , nice touch. :good2:
Hey Dan, do you plan on a vehicle lift? Not a motorcycle stand, but a vehicle lift.
The reason I asked is those lift frames put a point load, or concentrated load, on your floor slab, something you should be careful with on a 4" floor with radiant tubing running through it.
Yes I do plan on a 2 post lift eventually. You can get a 9000lb for $1500. I will measure and leave opening in the PEX for It. The manufacturer says 4" is all you need but I was thinking of putting 1" foam under the area of the lift instead of the 2" and then it will have at least 5"
Footings and Frost wall up. With 2" insulation on outside of the frost walls.
Well, they came and put the gravel inside the foundation. Before I put the 2" insulation on the inside of your foundation. Was going to put 2' inside the foundation. Between it and the slab. I spent a day digging the gravel away from the foundation. Only dug down a foot. Wow am I old. Put a 45 deg angle on the top of the foam. So the concrete would cover the foam.
Plumbing for inslab Installed. 3 floor drains in the bays by 3 garage doors. Plumbing for the bathroom. Toilet, urinal, utility sink right outside the door, and floor drain. Going to tile the whole thing and put in a shower head. Also floor drain in the mechanical room on the north side by the stairs.
They came and graded for the concrete. And then I Installed the 2" underslab insulation.
Next I installed 8 guage rebar mesh to zip tie the 7/8" PEX for the inslab heat. Along with the 3 inslab manifolds for the 3 zones. Then today they came and poured the slab.
Here is a pic of the first wheel barrow of concrete
The wheel barrow is symbolic right? That looks like a lot of slab to fill.
Quote from: FJmonkey on October 30, 2017, 05:29:51 PM
The wheel barrow is symbolic right? That looks like a lot of slab to fill.
No they filled all but the last 10'-12' of each slab with wheel barrows. It's only 2268 square feet. It only took them from 9am to just shy of 11am. 3 1/2 truck loads. The 2 finnishers were there from 7am_ 6pm
Coming along Dan, remember you have the accumulated injuries comparable to a pro football player, so don't be too hard on yourself.
Do you think you can have the exterior walls and roof on before the really nasty weather sets in?
Cheers
Pat
Quote from: Pat Conlon on October 31, 2017, 01:57:05 AM
Coming along Dan, remember you have the accumulated injuries comparable to a pro football player, so don't be too hard on yourself.
Do you think you can have the exterior walls and roof on before the really nasty weather sets in?
Cheers
Pat
More than most. Oh yeah here's what happens when you are standing on the top rail of the bed of your 4x4 pickup. Trying to strap down 50"tall bundle of 2"x 4'x8' styrofoam. And loose your balance.
Thank God it was just your head.... :wacko2:
Quote from: Pat Conlon on October 31, 2017, 10:54:15 AM
Thank God it was just your head.... :wacko2:
Yah did the old slam your palms to the pavement behind your back. Does 3 things.absorbs a little bit of the impact, staightens you out to land flat on your shoulders, and lifts your head up away from the pavement. But still hit my head. Kinda knocked me silly for a little bit. And strained my front kneck muscles and abdominal muscles. But probably saved my life.
Just another day in the life of Dan McCoy
Sorry to see the injury, hope all is well. But absolutely loving following this thread! Congrats on the progress, and I will be sure to keep checking back! :good:
Not very good pictures. But here are some of the finished slab.
Looking good Dan. Now if you can just keep your head off of it....
Quote from: FJmonkey on November 02, 2017, 03:34:26 PM
Looking good Dan. Now if you can just keep your head off of it....
:dash1: :sarcastic:
Finally, finally, finally. Putting the walls up. Man 12' walls are huge. When that's all that's up. Standing next to them.
Just two standing walls and I have a severe case of shop envy!
Put 2 more walls up the next day. Just got daylight pictures.
All the outside walls are up. The stairs are in. All the upstairs rooms framed in. And all the roof trusses for the lower side sections are up tomorrow the upper trusses. Then the roof.
I am in awe, this looks spectacular
Thanks. If it ever gets done. I tried for years to find something. That I could just buy. But no luck. So I finally said screw it I'm going to build it exactly how I want it. Nothing fancy what so ever. All about efficiency, durability, and as close to zero maintenance as I can get. I wanted to go 4' wider and 10' longer. But even these dimensions are going well past my budget. I won't have to worry about rising utility prices. Every. And I will pay off what ever I end up owing. With part of my 401k. So no bills. What so ever. Except for sewer, water and taxes. You can't get away from those.
Sewer and water won't be bad since it's just me. And I'm making urinals for both bathrooms. Out of mini kegs. With antique tappers for flushing mechanisms
Quote from: giantkiller on December 01, 2017, 07:14:30 PM
And I'm making urinals for both bathrooms. Out of mini kegs. With antique tappers for flushing mechanisms
Going back where it came from eh? Good thinking...
Quote from: FJmonkey on December 01, 2017, 07:48:16 PM
Quote from: giantkiller on December 01, 2017, 07:14:30 PM
And I'm making urinals for both bathrooms. Out of mini kegs. With antique tappers for flushing mechanisms
Going back where it came from eh? Good thinking...
Yah Monkey. They are a perfect design.They have a dished top perfect for the tapper to run into. Will make a drain from the top that will spread the water. To cover the inside, for the rinse. Can have different funny tapper handles. I have a golden peeing cherub for the fancy bathroom upstairs. And a shark for the shop bathroom,so far.
Making the urinals will be the first project In the new shop.
Here's a picture of the latest in the daylight
Looking great Dan! Great progress!
I noticed no snow yet, so I bet you can get the roof, windows/doors/siding on and everything dried in before the weather turns.
Burrrr :lol:
Quote from: Pat Conlon on December 03, 2017, 01:41:17 PM
Looking great Dan! Great progress!
I noticed no snow yet, so I bet you can get the roof, windows/doors/siding on and everything dried in before the weather turns.
Burrrr :lol:
They should get the upper trusses and sheathing on tomorrow. But after Tuesday It's highs in the 20s. Luckily the first big snow isn't predicted until the 25th
Looks great Dan.....this is right up my ally. Have been framing new homes and things for 33 years.....I would have enjoyed building this.... :drinks:
Carry on my friend and keep the pics coming....... oh.....meant to ask.....how do you guys south of the border gas proof the garage from the living areas? Up here we have super strict codes for carbon monoxide prevention... :morning2:
CanDman
I'm sealing everything up. I went with radiant heat and chilled water fan coils for AC. (No ductwork to seal away from fumes) And air to air for living space. Figured I had to do air to air in the shop too. But not required. (I found a diy air to air that's supposedly more efficient than what you can buy. Just isn't pretty. So I will make one for the shop later) I'm having the underside of the upstairs. Spray foamed (closed cell). More to help seal it off, than for efficiency. I will be sealing the stairs off in the future. And putting a door into the parts storage. I put the parts storage on that side. For multiple reasons. It's on the north side, don't need to keep the parts warm. And they shouldn't give off too many fumes. They are more worried about fire than anything. Fire rated caulking, fire doors, fire rated drywall. Surprisingly I'm going way past what is required.
It's a little late to change big things. But do you have any suggestions.
Dan...In your climate zone, a vapor barrier is always a good idea.
You already know this: 5/8" Type X drywall on the shop ceiling and walls will help protect your dwelling unit from a shop fire.
Get 1 hour fire rated electrical boxes for any openings in your shop walls or ceiling.
Thanks Pat.
Yah a well sealed up vapor barrier is a given in Wisconsin.
The 5/8
Must have been too long winded with the post.
5/8"
I do believe that with spray foam no vapor barrier is required. That is the case here in Ontario. A vapor barrier will have lots of holes from drywall installation that foam will not.
I'm having 1" (flash) closed cell spray foam on All exterior walls inside the 1" foam board on the outside, under the siding. 2" foam is needed in this zone. Even though all the insulation companies said. "All you need is the 1" flash". Then I'm going to do Mooney walls, with cellulose to fill the 2x6 walls. Interior 2x6 walls between the shop and 2 side storage areas will be filled with fiberglass Batts. The 7'x7' over head doors will be 6.8 r Insulated steel. The 3 outside overhead doors are walnut wood look 18.4r steel.
Haven't updated the house build for a while. Will try to get you guys up to speed. Putting the sheathing on for the roof
Hydrovac guys pressure washing the power pole out of the frozen tundra. New pole bigger transformer. Was neat to see. They Had a bunch of large rocks. To suck out of the ground. Took about half an hour. They said If the rocks weren't there. Would've only been about 10 minutes.
Roof on solar panels up. 10080 Watts. Still waiting for We Energies to put in the net meter and commission it. So I can start providing power for my neighbors.
About all you'll see from the road
Little out of order. But a couple of pictures of the roof before the solar panels. And a view of the back yard out the window. Can't tell from the picture but just about as high as the tops of the trees in the back. My deck off the living room will be about sixteen feet off the ground.
Looking awesome man :good2:
Very cool Danny boy....how many of those 7.6kW Pika inverters are you going to have?
Quote from: Pat Conlon on January 25, 2018, 11:30:11 AM
Very cool Danny boy....how many of those 7.6kW Pika inverters are you going to have?
Just the one for now. According to Pika. They can be oversized 130% dc solar array. To 10k
Good to know....thanks Dan. What's your projected move in date?
Everything I try to get done is a couple of weeks till I can get there...then next week... that usually means a couple of weeks. Was originally supposed to be done last September. But now shooting for March. For sewer and water hookup to the street
And then just the finished grading for the lot.
Yea, what I've learned, when a sub say's "Manana"....it does not necessarily mean tomorrow....it just means not today.
:Facepalm:
The house looks great so far. :drinks:
Hopefully the weather holds off and the remaining outside work finishes up quickly.
Fred
Looking awesome mate.
I know how frustrating the moving goalposts can be. Good to see you have a sensible outlook.
This is a fantastic journey you're on and is brilliant to follow.
Yes thanks. It's definitely a journey. It's another one of my creations. Like my bikes. Can't just go and buy one. Have to make it the way you want it. Plus it's my attempt at being able to retire. With geothermal and solar. Shooting for no bills. Won't have to worry about price utilities going up. Down or around.
Yep, keep a low over head...A very smart move Dan...for sure. :good2:
You're going to love those heated shop floors!
Well WE Energies finally has net meter up and running. So I'm providing power for my neighbors.
Finally getting siding. Still don't have man doors. But have the door jams with dummy doors. So they can install the siding. Ledger board for the deck off the kitchen/livingroom.
Looking good Dan, almost ready for a rally near you.
I too smell a rally
I would have plenty of room for bikes. and. Plenty of floor space or space for camping.
If anyone is passing through and needs a place to stay. Or work on their bike. My door is always open for fellow fjers.
Dan,
Any update on the progress for the new place?
Are you all moved in and loving it yet?
Randy - RPM
Yes, yes, yes! Pictures please!
The house finally got to the point that it was my turn. So I got all of the pumps and manifolds set up for the six infloor/inslab heat zones. And the 3 chilled water fan coils.
And figured out how to set up the mechanical room. With the loop pump, Bosch Geo unit, pump from the unit to the buffer tank, to the manifolds for the zone pumps. I had to drywall the inside of the mechanical room under the stairs before I could place everything. That was fun by myself, 5/8" fire rated. Especially the ceiling @ 12'. Don't have too many pictures.
Quote from: giantkiller on July 02, 2018, 09:03:12 PM
The house finally got to the point that it was my turn. So I got all of the pumps and manifolds set up for the six infloor/inslab heat zones. And the 3 chilled water fan coils.
And figured out how to set up the mechanical room. With the loop pump, Bosch Geo unit, pump from the unit to the buffer tank, too the manifolds for the zone pumps. I had to drywall the inside of the mechanical room under the stairs before I could place everything.
You put the mechanical room under the stairs? Good use of the space. However I was going to ask if I could rent that space from you for my room. I would only use it in the summer. I would not take up much space. Something like Harry Potter. Oh well ............... :biggrin: Hope your house is coming along well.
Dave
Ran almost 400' of 3/4" PEX from the pumps to the six heating zones and the three.fan coils.
But then got a severe case of vertigo. Spent 3 days in the hospital with them running every test they could think of. And after probably $8 or $9000 worth of scans. They decided it was probably an inner ear infection like I told them. Spent 8 days with my eyes closed. Getting better. Going on 3 weeks now
Hope you are getting better. Take it easy and get some rest.
Dave
Very cool Dan. Is there a special glycol solution your run in the circulation system?
Haven't gotten that far. But yes I will be.
Quote from: giantkiller on July 02, 2018, 09:03:12 PM...by myself, 5/8" fire rated (sheetrock). Especially the ceiling @ 12'. Don't have too many pictures.
"Because I can't lift the camera." 30 years ago I was carrying four 4x8 sheets of 1/2" drywall at a time; these days a single one can wrestle me to the ground and pin me under a cloud of gypsum if I let it get ahead of me.
Place looks GREAT! With my single-zone old-school residential system and a west-facing living room that stays uncomfortably warm all afternoon while my basement stays chilly and my backyard stays loud, I envy you with your multi-zone ground-source heat pump. At least it's relatively dry down there; maybe I'll leave the door open to the garage while I rebuild my blue-spots tomorrow.
Hope your health gets better.
Well still a little dizzy. But have to work on the house. Got the 400' of PEX from the pump manifold to the six infloor/inslab heat zones, and the three chilled water fan coils all hooked up. 1700' of PEX in the three zones in the shop/storage down stairs. Now have 1200' of PEX to put in the three heat zones in Warmboard upstairs.
3300' of PEX total.
I've been told that having a pump for every zone is overkill :unknown:
Here's a pic of everything hooked up to the manifolds. Not bad for a dummy that has never done HVAC. Or plumbing for that matter.
Hey Dave I do have a second bedroom upstairs. That won't get much use.
Quote from: giantkiller on July 10, 2018, 05:50:45 PM
.....I've been told that having a pump for every zone is overkill :unknown:
Good for you, listen to your instincts....You've made the right call, a pump for each zone.
Besides, with a creative valve design, you can always have the option to combine multiple zones to run off of one pump in the event of a pump failure.
Redundancy rocks, especially in your climate zone....burrrrrr.
I love your work Dan!
How many feet of pipe did you use per zone?
Quote from: fj johnnie on July 11, 2018, 06:16:24 AM
How many feet of pipe did you use per zone?
I can't remember exactly. The 2 smaller side slab zones downstairs have 2 loops each. The larger center zone has 3 loops. Going to manifolds recessed into the slabs. The 2 smaller zones upstairs have just one loop each. The larger kitchen, living room, hallway, has 4 loops. Thus the manifold in the box it has six ports. Because I was going to use actuators. But then decided to have separate pumps for each zone. So now has 2 extra ports. I decided to make a hydronic heated towel rack for the bathroom. And use one of the extra ports for that.
When I did mine I used 200' loops. Apparently the temperature drop on a longer loop will give uneven temps. Did you space your pipes approx. 12 inches apart? It is the most efficient way to heat at any rate. Unless you live in Iceland and can tap into a hot spring.
The ones in the slab are 7/8" thin wall ox barrier PEX. If I remember right they recommended 16" with the larger PEX. 2" of foam outside of foundation. 2" foam inside the foundation cut 45deg on the top. So the slab has a foam break from the foundation. But you don't have 2" of foam showing around the perimeter of the shop floor. A 1x8 wood separation between the 3 slabs And 2" of foam under slab with plastic barrier.
Upstairs 1/2" PEX Al PEX. On 11" centers in Warmboard. Warmboard is a little more. But way more efficient.
Just looked at my old plans for the PEX in slab. Was 12".
Thread bump. Is this place finished yet?
Well still not done yet. 5 week's off with vertigo. Couldn't work or work on house. Still have averaged 53 hours a week at work. And working on the house 99% of the time by myself. Enough of the excuses.
I'll get you up to date on the house. All the plumbing roughed in.
I made an uncoiler for the PEX upstairs. (Couldn't afford to buy one) And installed all the PEX in the warmboard.
Decided to go with pocket doors for the bedrooms. That was kinda fun.
Installed the Panasonic cold climate ERV in the ceiling of the closet in spare bedroom. Using red turbo tube 90s to hook up the flanges for the r8 flexible ducts in the attic.
I roughed in the electrical myself. And Inspector approved it. Said it looked great. Not bad considering I've never done anything before. Bought a book with NEC codes. Don't know how, but it said it had codes through 2019. Actually did way more than I needed to. Inspector said the township finally up to 2010 codes. Didn't take pictures
The insulation guy finally called and said he would come Monday. And spray foam the walls. And back of the ceiling upstairs 1". Said that the ceiling needed plastic up before the drywall. And he would come and put the plastic up. Then spray downstairs. While I put all the drywall in the ceiling upstairs. That would be great but I had to work Friday through Thursday. 12hrs 7-7. Got him to send 2 guys Friday and put up the plastic. Then Friday Saturday and Sunday night after work to put up the drywall in the ceiling. Then they didn't show Monday. Called him. He got back to me Wednesday and said he had to do another job. That he didn't know was ready for him. Said they would come the next week an get it all done. They came the next Wednesday. Sprayed 1" foam on almost the whole downstairs. Then their gun got clogged up. So said they would come back tomorrow. And finish. Tomorrow came and they finnished the foam. Then said they would be back tomorrow and blow in all the cellulose in the ceiling. They ran out of cellulose. So they said they would actually come finnish on Saturday. Ran out again. And came back Monday and actually finished up. Said that the ceilings down stairs and the vaulted ceiling in the living room. Were hard to do. So they ended up putting more in than they intended. Said they used 65 more bags than they estimated.
And the award for best thread re-ignition after a bump goes to........
Well you are a busy chap. I'm going to have to sit down after taking all that on board.
How on earth do you fit in riding time? After all, that's the most important time.
Here's some pics of the spray foam. And some of the PEX I had to run from the manifolds to the six in floor heating zones. Plus the three chilled water fan coils for the AC. In the center ceiling, under living space upstairs.
Quote from: andyoutandabout on December 29, 2018, 05:42:34 PM
And the award for best thread re-ignition after a bump goes to........
Well you are a busy chap. I'm going to have to sit down after taking all that on board.
How on earth do you fit in riding time? After all, that's the most important time.
I still have lots more to post. But let me tell you of the one fun thing (besides work and working on the house.) that I allowed myself to do this summer. A friend from work built a mini semi. On an s10 drivetrain. Looks just like a semi, sitting in the parking lot. Then you realize It's not big enough. He said he was going to put it in the show during trucking weekend in small town near us( Waupun WI) He said he would be there Sunday morning at 6 to get a good spot. I've always wanted to check out the trucking weekend. Pretty much takes over the whole town Friday through Sunday. So I got the 1350 running. And ran over to the show spent 2hrs checking out the awesome trucks. And went back to work on the house. only thing I did this year.
They put up reinforced plastic up. Then blew cellulose. Then put up more plastic. Blew more cellulose. ect.ect. For the two side ceilings downstairs, and the vaulted ceiling upstairs. Because there's not enough room to do it with drywall up. So I had to put up the drywall right away. To keep it from coming down. Also did ceiling in the shop. To get all the ceilings done.
While looking into fire stop around the PEX. Where it goes through the 5/8" drywall firebreak downstairs.
I found rockwool. It's fireproof, water resistant, sound barrier, air barrier, and has better r value than the pink crap.
Super easy to install. And cuts with a bread knife. I have no idea why anyone would use anything else. So I filled out the 2x6 walls with rockwool. After the insulation guy sprayed in the foam. I installed 9 pallets of rockwool in all exterior walls and the walls inside the garage. Am going to use the scraps to fill in the bedroom and bathroom walls just for sound barrier.
So will have R30 in the exterior walls, and R60 in the ceilings.
Looking good Dan. Not living in a cold country, I'm amazed at how much tech goes into heating and insulating. Is there such a thing as a "Certificate of Occupancy" where the building needs to formally be signed off on as fit for habitation or can you legally reside there at what ever stage you choose?
Noel
Depends on the local laws. In 1992 I moved into the house I was building. No kitchen, no doors, floors were plywood, etc. We did the dishes in the tub. Didn't need a building permit though I got one anyways. Only inspection was by the Utility for the electrical panel and the sewage enforcement officer for the septic system.
Quote from: Motofun on December 30, 2018, 07:20:47 AM
Depends on the local laws. In 1992 I moved into the house I was building. No kitchen, no doors, floors were plywood, etc. We did the dishes in the tub. Didn't need a building permit though I got one anyways. Only inspection was by the Utility for the electrical panel and the sewage enforcement officer for the septic system.
Yes it all depends on the local building codes for the various cities, states or counties. Licensing requirements for all contractors vary from state to state and city to city. How the building inspectors want things done in the same city can be different. Residential construction is usually inspected by one inspector who does it all---framing,plumbing,electrical, etc. After you pay your inspection fee and pass some cities require an additional occupancy fee. As usual its mostly about the money and pleasing the inspector.
Commercial construction is a whole different ball game. Specific inspectors for every phase of construction. Being a commercial Electrical Foreman for many years the first thing to strive for is good relations with the inspector. Find out what he requires and do it his way. Job goes a lot easier. I had a small advantage in Dallas. I knew the head Electrical Inspector because he was a fellow skydiver. That wasn't the case in the rest of the cities.
Dave
Yes I have to get final inspection and an occupancy permit. I ran into a problem when I went to vote. I have a postal address which is on my driver's license. But it doesn't show up in the system for registration for voting. Until the occupancy permit is filed.
Well I ran out of time. I wanted to get the all the drywall up, mudded, and painted. On the south side of the shop. So I could get the 3 storage units I'm renting emptied. To save the $180 a month before I got both my knees chopped out. Since I'm going to be off work for a while. I got the drywall up but didn't get it taped or painted. But got 2 of the 10'x20' Storage units empty. And half of the 3rd. But ran out of time. Scheduled surgery for the slow time at work.( November 27 )
All of the ceilings and probably 1/4 of the walls drywalled. Still have 152 sheets to hang. Mostly 12' even 6 14' sheets.
Are getting both knees replaced or what? That's going to be a tough haul. I had both mine done in just under a year,last one in July and just getting sort of back to normal now. I wish you luck doing both at once, most Dr., wont do them together because of mobility issues. The final outcome is awesome though,no pain and I can walk more than a half a block now. Been doing a couple kilometers a day now
Yes had both done at the same time. My doctor recommended that I do both. First time I saw him. He said he had a scale of 1-4. 1 being some damage. 4 being horrible. He said "both of your knees are way beyond horrible"
After my surgery my wife said he walked into the room shaking his head. And said "who the hell is this guy". He said he couldn't understand how I could walk at all. Mne were the worst he had ever seen. And that my left shin bone was missing almost an inch. Had worn away. And that he couldn't straighten them out as much as he wanted. I was so bowlegged that the tendons on the inside were too tight and that the outside tendons were too loose.
Had me up a few hours after surgery walking with a walker. Am now a month out and finally able to take a few steps without the walker.
This has been the hardest thing for me. Had over 4' of surgical scars, and 42 pieces of metal in me.(now over 5' and 46 pieces of metal). So I'm used to working through things. But I can't just hammer my way through this. When I do my knees just swell and lock up. Range shortens. I've had to learn not to push it. Very hard for me.
Gotta tell ya. Climbing up and down the ladder 42,000 times. Working on the 12' ceiling and walls. Was kinda painful.
Know what you mean. My Doc said basically the same thing to me. Wondered how I was still walking. Managed to straighten both legs out and gained about a half inch in height. Yea , don't over do it, I found out the hard way about that. Got to busy and went to a wedding and a few other things and lost almost half of my motion in one knee. Took almost three weeks to get it back. Good now though. Dr. said to put off buying a new bike until the latter half of 2019. Cant wait going to get a Triumph Thunderbird with a hack so I don't have worry about falling over, can't wait
Dan, you are a Beast!
Awesome progress on the Barn!
Heal up those knees...................
I want to see pictures of the Mini-Truck!
Quote from: Firehawk068 on December 30, 2018, 02:14:20 PM
Dan, you are a Beast!
Awesome progress on the Barn!
Heal up those knees...................
I want to see pictures of the Mini-Truck!
I never took any pics of the mini semi. Don't know why cuz it's awesome.
I'm going nuts not being able to work on the house. I've ordered the power unit for the central vacuum system. And a few other things small things I need to finish the house. But can't actually work on it :dash2:
The house obviously isn't really sealed up at all. Less than half of the drywall hung. And none of it mudded or painted. Garage doors aren't sealed at the top.(don't have openers up). Scuttle upstairs just has some fiberglass stuffed in it. But super insulation and designing it for efficiency. (As good as a forklift driver could come up with). Allows me to heat it up with this tiny oscillating heater. Temps in the 20s F started @ 34F. An hour and a half later 52F. Heater downstairs and pretty much the same temp upstairs. Oh yeah 3300sq ft.
Quote from: giantkiller on January 04, 2019, 05:54:52 PM
T Temps in the 20s F started @ 34F. An hour and a half later 52F. Heater downstairs and pretty much the same temp upstairs. Oh yeah 3300sq ft.
Impressive!
Seems impossible even to me. My old shop 22' x 44'. Took a window pellet stove. several hours to get into the 40s . 2x4 walls with fiberglass and 1" pink foam board attached to the bottom of the rafters. Can't wait to work in a warm shop with in floor heat. And air-conditioned during the summer. And have zero bills.
Dan, I seem to recall you had geothermal heating, if so, are the figures you quote exclusively from that or boosted by some other form of heating. Whatever, it's an impressive performance for an area like that.
Every man's dream, a warm, cosy place to play with his toys when it's foul outside.
Noel
No haven't hooked up the Geo yet. Just that tiny oscillating heater. Kinda freaks me out. If I leave It running set at 68F it actually cycles off. In the 20s outside.
Center shop section will be heated and cooled at all times. Woohoo. And will not have to pay any bills for heating, cooling, cooking, lights, hot water,. nothing. (No more utility bills, from here on out. Won't have to worry about prices going up or down) :yahoo:
That's truly amazing, we have nothing like that here.
With that sort of efficiency, a decent heavy breathing session and you'd need to open the windows to cool off mid-Winter!
Noel
Yah I figured I could just light a couple of farts every once in a while to heat it up.
:biggrin:
There will come a day when the government will tax you on the currently "free" energy.
I'm surprised they haven't come up with something yet.
I know they do in other countries already.
Power companies don't like it. And are fighting very hard against net metering. Most of the ones that have exceeded. Have had to grandfather in existing systems.
When and if I loose net metering. I will go off grid. It's funny first they were begging people to do solar. Because they could not keep up with the demand. But then they all figured out "hey instead of paying this guy 10c and turning around and selling the electricity he is making to his neighbor for 27c. And telling the greenies that if they pay 37c . They can get power that is only produced via renewable. Through the same lines as there neighbor who is getting fossil electricity. Well If we make up a bunch of lies that the energy. We get from the guy for 10c and instantly make 20c off selling it to his neighbor. Is costing us money. Making 20c when we actually don't have to do anything. Then we can charge everyone more because these people making electricity for us. Are evil. Sorry. Rant over.
The geothermal actually cost me much less than conventional heating and cooling. And that was before they reinstated the 30% rebate last year.
Quote from: oldktmdude on January 05, 2019, 04:07:14 PM
There will come a day when the government will tax you on the currently "free" energy.
I'm surprised they haven't come up with something yet.
Yes Peter, they have already done this (in some areas) The utility as convinced the regulatory folks to put a surcharge on the electric bills for homes that have PV solar systems. Last I checked, the solar surcharge runs from $25 to $45 per month only on homes with PV systems. These are for folks who remain connected to the utility ( via grid tied PV systems)
The utility argument is: Folks who have PV grid tied systems have very little to zero net kWh useage, therefore we can't charge the homeowner based on their energy useage. The cost of the grid maintenance is then transferred to folks who don't have solar, even though the solar folks Benefit from electricity they draw off the grid (at night)
This is not fair (they claim) because the folks who have PV systems don't pay their fair share to keep the electrical grid maintained, thus the surcharge.
So, if you remained connected to the grid, you get the surcharge (again, in some areas) and the only way out of this surcharge is to completely cut the cord with the utility and go off grid. This means adding batteries to your PV system, which means $$$. Although prices on battery systems are coming down.
Screw those utilities, they see the writing on the wall and it scares them, as it should.
I don't have the surcharge yet. I do have a $15 charge for being hooked up to the grid. But I paid that before I had solar. Just like everyone else. But I'm sure I will get the surcharge. But right now I'm over producing enough. And have more than enough room to add to the system. Too make up the difference. Until I loose net metering.
But luckily our government hasn't started taxing us. Like other countries do.
Yes battery prices are coming down. And there are a lot of battery technologies. That if they don't get suppressed. Will make them cheaper and more durable. Every day is remarkable. Right now.
Quote from: oldktmdude on January 05, 2019, 04:07:14 PM
There will come a day when the government will tax you on the currently "free" energy.
I'm surprised they haven't come up with something yet.
They already do charge even on a vacant block with nothing connected.
All properties with access to water main or wastewater (sewer) main pay service charges, and coming to a place near you will be the service charge even if not connected to electricity supply but it's out the front waiting for you.
The less we use, the more the charges go up so their CEO's can still get pay rises!
Quote from: Sparky84 on January 05, 2019, 09:49:09 PM
Quote from: oldktmdude on January 05, 2019, 04:07:14 PM
There will come a day when the government will tax you on the currently "free" energy.
I'm surprised they haven't come up with something yet.
They already do charge even on a vacant block with nothing connected.
All properties with access to water main or wastewater (sewer) main pay service charges, and coming to a place near you will be the service charge even if not connected to electricity supply but it's out the front waiting for you.
The less we use, the more the charges go up so their CEO's can still get pay rises!
Here in Australia we charge farmers for the water they catch in the dams they dig with the money they've earned on the land they own - a tax on rainwater! (which, ironically, is probably tax deductable)
You know how they get away with that? They're the govt, they just make up a law that says they can.
Noel
It's illegal to catch rain water in a lot of cities in the US. And we have property tax. Like what you said. I was paying $998 a year. For my empty one acre lot. Before I built the house. Now without having the occupancy permit yet it's gone up to $1987.56. And I'm sure when I get the occupancy permit it will go up again.
Luckily they can't use the added value of the geothermal or the solar for the tax assessment.
US electric utilities have an "obligation to serve". That means they must run poles and lines everywhere. Who do you expect will pay for that? True, you may wish to go off the grid but that doesn't eliminate their obligation. As long as power is seen as an essential service like water and sewer than there will be a method to collect for the service. TV cable, on the other hand, is not essential. Cut the cord and all charges stop. See the difference?
Move way off the grid where no services are provided and avoid all complications.
'Obligation to serve' so you pay even if you don't use it. Who votes for this shit? Some of the laws in America are just plain wrong. Don't even get me started on healthcare.
Yes I still pay the $15 a month to help them maintain the grid. That they have to maintain. For all of my neighbors. That they use to make money off of the electricity that I make for them. I don't think I should use it free of charge. But I don't think people who foot the bill for the equipment (solar that they don't have to pay for or maintain). That allows them to make money off of their system. Should be penalized with a surcharge. I don't get paid dollar for dollar. I pay more for the electricity I use. Than they pay me for the excess electricity I make.. You have to oversize the solar system by quite a bit. To over produce enough to break even. I guarantee I pay more for grid maintenance than any of my neighbors.
But the only legal monopolies allowed in the US. Power companies. That haven't had to invest in updating our antiquated grid system. Because they are massive profit making monopolies.
Don't get me wrong I don't think I should get to use the grid for free. But don't believe any of the bullshit. About it costing others for the miniscule amount of solar being generated by the few residential solar systems. Just another way for them to make a bigger profit.
And no I'm not a liberal greenie. I'm just busting my ass trying to come up with a way. I might be able to almost retire someday. And not have to figure out how to come up with the extra money to pay for the new profit margin of the power company.
Think of the grid as a market place where you can sell what you have produced as well as buy what you want, when you want it, as you want it, or not. The "market place" doesn't exist for free. You don't have the problem of finding buyers for your product like the Utility does nor are you concerned with the shelf life (there is none) of your product. You don't have to worry about voltage, frequency variations on the grid (er... I mean market place) or fluctuations in demand. These things must be controlled in order for the grid to work and it's one reason why your product is of less value than your consumption.
Quote from: Motofun on January 06, 2019, 02:06:16 PM
Think of the grid as a market place where you can sell what you have produced as well as buy what you want, when you want it, as you want it, or not. The "market place" doesn't exist for free. You don't have the problem of finding buyers for your product like the Utility does nor are you concerned with the shelf life (there is none) of your product. You don't have to worry about voltage, frequency variations on the grid (er... I mean market place) or fluctuations in demand. These things must be controlled in order for the grid to work and it's one reason why your product is of less value than your consumption.
Yeah. Short answer because I think you must have missed it. I don't think I should use it for free. But I don't think I should be penalized (added surcharge for solar) When they I already pay more than others. Because they make money off the electricity I produce. And I don't cost them any more than if I didn't.
I'm not posting for the debate on whether the power company needs to make more money. Just trying to share what years of obsessive study. And planning. And now physical constant hard work. A lowly forklift driver. Can do to make the ultimate manshed. Dream house/shop... Well ultimate for me on a forklift drivers massive overtime income (never worked less than 2800 hours a year)
Like Pat wrote, a buddy went solar but is still grid tied. He pays over $500/year to Pigs Greed and Extortion (our utility company PG&E for those out of area) for the privilege of being grid tied. PG&E used to send a check to customers that generated more power than they used. Now they just issue a credit to your bill. I recall there is a time limit to the credit as well. Essentially they are taking your unused electricity and not paying you for it. Don't even get us NorCal residents started on PG&E starting fires and the gas explosion in San Bruno.
For the doomsayers about gov't charging for free energy and utility companies seeing the handwriting on the wall, this is what I predict. In the future, utility companies will get their lackeys, (aka politicians) to pass laws that will prevent anyone from disconnecting from the grid. Of course they will say it's for your protection. Here in the People's Socialist Republic of Kalifornia they already passed a law that will regulate how much water we can use from our water companies. It's not far away from them attaching water meters to wells. Once again, initially they will say it's only to monitor how much water you are removing from the aquifers. With regard to the comment about rain water, California passed a law in the 1800's that gives the state complete ownership and authority over any water that falls upon the ground, ie rain.
Ok, that's my rant. I'll get off my soapbox now.
Joe
Back to sharing on my journey. I had studied and learned everything I could find about geothermal heating, solar and everything that has to do with building a house/shop. Been going to every build show I could find for a couple of years spent every second I could find searching the internet, watching all the shows on TV, for every little bit of information I could find. Before I started. Stilll obsessively double quadruple checking everything...
So I know as much about every detail as a dumbass like me could know.
I got three estimates for building my house. With conventional heating and cooling. I discussed with all of them that I was going with geothermal and solar. And I would take care of all of that. All of them said they would love to live in it after looking at my plans I ended up going with the builder who was in the middle. Because he didn't care how much I wanted to do myself. But mostly because he was kinda excited about building it. He said most people will do solar. Or super insulation. Or in floor heat. Had never built one that had geothermal heating. But you are doing all of those.
I had figured out what I thought it would take to heat my house with geothermal. I figured about 3-4 ton.
So I got three different estimates for the Geo heating and cooling (well 4 If you count the Water furnace guy $60,000). All three had wildly different ideas for equipment. The first wo of them thought I needed "at least 6 ton for that building". They came back with $45,600 and $45,900. No way I could even think about affording that. And if I don't do Geo it kinda defeats the purpose of building. So I don't have to worry about bills in the future. So I heard one of the most recommended conventional HVAC guys also does Geo. And he had been doing it for 30 years. I didn't think it had been around that long. I show him my plans. And the first thing he said "hell you can probably cool that whole thing with less than a ton, and 3 ton heating. You will need some kind of back up for when we have -20s". He said he would do a heat loss study and get back to me with the details. I left thinking it should be a lot cheaper since he knew what he was saying and was more in line with what I thought. Both smaller and less complicated than the other two. He called me back a few hours later and said he would use 4ton two stage water to water. Then I wouldn't have to have a backup system. Would run 3ton most of the time. And bump up to 4ton on -20 days. Even less complicated. Woohoo. He called and said he had the estimate all written up. He came back with $45,263. Guess that means I can't do Geo.
As a last ditch effort to keep my dream alive. I asked the guy who takes care of HVAC for the plant. 1,890,000 SQ ft. He does HVAC on the side. If he could help me out. He said sure that he had helped 3 others install there own Geo systems.
And so doing it myself. So far he's just got the equipment for me at cost. And once I get it all hooked up. He'll come and start it up. And I'll pay him for that. Had the one guy they all use install the loops for me. I'm at about $22,000. And will get 30% back on taxes.
The estimates for conventional came back from $26,000- 39,000 wtf.
So my understanding of geothermal energy is pulling steam heat from wells. What is your definition of geothermal energy for your home?
Joe
I think it is more like using the stable thermal temps below to help maintain the same on the surface.
Quote from: Tuned forks on January 06, 2019, 10:00:27 PM
So my understanding of geothermal energy is pulling steam heat from wells. What is your definition of geothermal energy for your home?
Joe
Hey Joe. Geothermal heating. Is different from the energy/ electricity production. From the heat/ steam. I know it's not technically correct calling it geothermal heating. For the residential stuff but that's what they call it.
It's basically a heat pump. That you use either a horizontal loop. Buried Bellow the frost line. 6' min for this area. Or a vertical loop. That carries water to transfer heat. From or to the house. Via the heat pump. But instead of sitting outside trying to pull heat out of the air when it's -20. Or trying to push heat out of the house into 90F outside. Sits inside out of the elements. Pulling heat out of the average around here 56F ground temperature. To heat the house winter. And pushing the heat out of the house summer. It doesn't have to work as hard. Because difference is less with the constant 56ish ground temperature. So uses less power and lasts longer. The guy that has been installing Geo for 30 years. Said most of the first ones he installed are still using the original heat pumps.
Here's a picture of my loops being installed
Joe, that's what I also thought based on my region, geothermal = ground source hot water/steam.
We have a lot of geo thermal plants down at the Salton Sea.
The system Dan has, is what we locally call "Ground Source Heat Pumps"
A quick google search showed me that the term geo thermal is also used for describing Dan's system, something I did not know.
Dan, I'm very proud of you, your planning, ambition, hard work and your tolerance to pain (both knees at the SAME time?)
Heal well amigo, don't push it.....your dream will still be waiting for you.
Now I understand what you're doing. I work with heat pumps all the time.
Joe
Quote from: Pat Conlon on January 06, 2019, 10:39:53 PM
Joe, that's what I also thought based on my region, geothermal = ground source hot water/steam.
We have a lot of geo thermal plants down at the Salton Sea.
The system Dan has, is what we locally call "Ground Source Heat Pumps"
A quick google search showed me that the term geo thermal is also used for describing Dan's system, something I did not know.
Dan, I'm very proud of you, your planning, ambition, hard work and your tolerance to pain (both knees at the SAME time?)
Heal well amigo, don't push it.....your dream will still be waiting for you.
Thanks Pat. I'm going nuts. Had to learn how to watch TV again. That lasted about 2 weeks. I have no idea how people can sit and watch that for more than a couple of hours. I've even run out of stuff to look at on the internet.
Well been in the negatives at night and teens(F) during the day. Yesterday was high of -2F so decided to go down and check on the house. And watch lunar eclipse last night. No heat except solar inverter, and small dorm sized refrigerator running. And was still 36F inside house. Just freaks me out. 38 degree minimum difference. From just those 2 sources of heat. Turned on the same mini heater. An hour or so later 48F in the house. -4F outside when I left.
Can't wait to see what it's like to have a house and shop kept at comfortable temps all the time. And not pay anything for heating, cooling, hot water, lights and all. Heck I'll probably leave my 2 stage 80 gallon compressor on all the time just cause I can. :dance2:
Get a thousand gallon tank and a compressed air powered generator and store all your excess power as compressed air instead of selling it to the utility
Quote from: T Legg on January 21, 2019, 10:15:55 PM
Get a thousand gallon tank and a compressed air powered generator and store all your excess power as compressed air instead of selling it to the utility
That's interesting Travis, are you aware of any residential systems?
Here's some folks over in Switzerland doing it: http://www.enairys.com/en/products/intro (http://www.enairys.com/en/products/intro)
Here's a write up in the UAE : https://www.thenational.ae/uae/compressed-air-the-battery-of-the-future-1.338460 (https://www.thenational.ae/uae/compressed-air-the-battery-of-the-future-1.338460)
As a believer in Murphy's Law, the compressed air system sounds to me like having a lot of moving parts to it.
PV system Batteries are getting better and less expensive, it seems like in a 3 year cycle.
Quote from: Pat Conlon on January 22, 2019, 01:37:12 AM
Quote from: T Legg on January 21, 2019, 10:15:55 PM
Get a thousand gallon tank and a compressed air powered generator and store all your excess power as compressed air instead of selling it to the utility
That's interesting Travis, are you aware of any residential systems?
As a believer in Murphy's Law, the compressed air system sounds to me like having a lot of moving parts to it.
Actually I was joking.It seems possible but I don't think it would be feasible on that small of scale.with the cost of equipment even if he could recapture enough electricity to be useful I doubt it would be cheaper than buying it.
Thermal solar collectors are up to 80% efficient in converting the sun's energy to hot water.With an in floor hydronic heating system that could be a nice secondary heating scource.
When I get that far. I will look at EV batteries. You can get 16kwh batteries for $2000. Vrs $10,000 for Tesla powerwall 2 13.5kwh.(have to purchase from authorized installer)
Pat the enairys system looks quite large. They don't give dimensions. But looking at the individual components. Would be minimum 10'x8'. Probably larger. For now going to stay with lith batteries. Looks like Toyota and Panasonic are working together on an even better EV battery.
Pat also looks like the geothermal companies in the Salton Sea. Are looking to extract lithium from the Geo wells. Said to be the largest lithium deposit in the world. I think it said $2.5 billion worth.
Hey Dan, yes, I agree. Batteries are the way to go...when you're ready.
Hopefully the smaller, lighter, more efficient solid state batteries will then be available. No need to worry about a liquid electrolyte.
We are seeing fast advancements in battery technology. The smart money is not on lithium.
The egg heads at Stanford have developed an Aluminum-ion battery: www.nature.com/articles/nature14340 (http://www.nature.com/articles/nature14340)
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5316828/ (https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5316828/)
Aluminum is much less expensive to acquire and process than Lithium.
7500 cycles without capacity decay is equal to 20.5 years with a 90% discharge and recharge every day. Damn impressive.
Yea, lots of geothermal down at the east side of the Salton Sea following the San Andreas fault line.
The bad news is that the water/steam quality is challenging, with a very high alkali content, highly corrosive to the equipment.
Re: Lithium extraction from the brine, I would not hold my breath....I've seen this before on a company that was promoting lithium extraction, only to disappear over night with every one's money.
That's what Toyota and Panasonic are working on solid state batteries. Think I'll get a couple of Chevy volt batteries. In the meantime 32kwh for$4-5000.
Yea, some used EV batteries would be a cool project, just be extremely careful.
The voltages involved on some of those EV battery packs can cause an arc to ground that is much longer than the typical 120/240/277/480 volt current we are accustomed.
...this has surprised more than a few unsuspecting folks.
Beware the heat given off. Several electric bikes at the TT exploded before completing a lap and there was a fire in their pit area too. Don't know what kind of batteries they were using, but whatever they were, those are the ones you don't want.
Quote from: Pat Conlon on January 22, 2019, 05:52:25 PM
Yea, some used EV batteries would be a cool project, just be extremely careful.
The voltages involved on some of those EV battery packs can cause an arc to ground that is much longer than the typical 120/240/277/480 volt current we are accustomed.
...this has surprised more than a few unsuspecting folks.
When I get that far I'll spend a lot of time studying everything I can find.
Quote from: giantkiller on January 22, 2019, 10:14:02 PM
When I get that far I'll spend a lot of time studying everything I can find.
And you will have shrapnel (need to see the X-rays) to prove it...
Quote from: FJmonkey on January 22, 2019, 11:26:42 PM
Quote from: giantkiller on January 22, 2019, 10:14:02 PM
When I get that far I'll spend a lot of time studying everything I can find.
And you will have shrapnel (need to see the X-rays) to prove it...
I already have 46 pieces of metal in me... But they were put there intentionally.
Are you speaking from experience Monkey?
No personal experience. I was just poking fun at your record for getting really involved in your fun/projects.
46.... Do I hear 47? 47 anyone?
Note to self: If running late for my flight, do not follow Dan thru airport TSA screening....
Hey Dan, time for an update! Pictures are good, you get extra points for pictures.
Thread bump.
News of the dream eagerly awaited
Andy, you need to call Dan and stop by to see the dream is person.
You are/were close.
Randy - RPM
Just keep working 7am-7pm. Then go work on the house for a couple of hours. Go to bed get up and start all over again. Working lots of overtime trying to get caught back up after being off for 3 months for replacing my knees. and 90% of the time working by myself. Ok enough of the excuses.
Got all 10,332 sq ft of the drywall hung.( I take terrible pictures but here we go) upstairs living area is all 1/2 easy stuff even the 14 footers.
Here's an attempt at mudding. Where I'm putting the chilled water fancoil for the air-conditioning.for the kitchen living room. Also the reason I decided I'm going to have to hire someone to do the mud. Just had 2 different outfits.look at it but neither have gotten back to me.
The two round Holes up high are intake and outlet for the cold climate e r v. Another outlet in the master bedroom and an intake in the bathroom..Has merv 13 filtration.
Using automotive turbo elbows to hook up the erv.
Downstairs drywall all 5/8 fire rated. 12 footers are kinda heavy lifting them up on the lift by myself. Had to have steel plates welded to the lift cause it was bending. Under the 12 footers.
Descided to put the traps for the mini keg urinals in the walls. So it will be a cleaner hookup under the urinals. Pex for the tappers to flush the urinals above the kegs
Looking great!!
So much work so little time.
I put rockwool in all of the walls. Even in the interior walls. For soundproofing, insulation, and fire stop.
12 on and 12 off and you still have time to hang 12' x4' sheets of 5/8" type X...by yourself.... you animal.
Yea, get some pros for the tape and mud. They can knock it out quickly. You going with a simple knock down or orange peel texture?
What's the hole in the top of trap weir for? A trap primer?
Are you fully mobile, full range of motion with your new knees? Getting up and down the ladder without pain?
You are doing great Dan! I wish I lived closer to help you. Pat
Don't feel much like an animal anymore. Feel like an old man these days. Was a time when I could do. Set of front lateral raises with a 145 lb dumbbell in each hand. But was pretty much all I could do to reach down and pick those sheets up off my steel toe and put them up on the lift.
Was thinking about going with the orange peel.
The hole is just where I got a little sloppy with the PVC primer. Does look like a hole though
Still doing therapy at work every day. Skipping my lunch and going up to the fitness center. At 132 degrees of bend. Still swelling up and a lot of pain. Every where around the knees. Butt not the knee's :yahoo:. Now my ankles, feet, lower back. I think it's because he took about a foot of space out from between my knees. And changed all the angles everything else was used to. Still alot of pain but. It's a thousand times better than before. I get so excited because I can tell. I'm going to be able to be a normal human being!!!!!!
I wish you were too. I would have been done along time ago. But can finally see the finish line...in the distance.
Quote from: giantkiller on June 30, 2019, 11:30:24 PM
Descided to put the traps for the mini keg urinals in the walls. So it will be a cleaner hookup under the urinals. Pex for the tappers to flush the urinals above the kegs
It could just be my eyes Dan, but in the picture it looks like you have an electrical switch/connector sitting underneath the urinal pipework ?
Am I just being a doofus (misunderstanding the pic), or blind, or is that something that's normal. I'd be worried about having water/effluent leak from the pipework onto the box - and you seem to amazingly knowledgeable & professional about all of the building stuff, so I'm guessing I'm wrong !
It's ok to have a drain line over an electrical outlet box...however, having a trap inaccessible inside a wall can be a problem. Traps normally need to be accessible for disassembly and cleaning. If this trap served a sink, this would surely be the case, however, this trap is just serving fluids from a urinal, so accessibility for cleaning should not be an issue.
Right on both counts Pat. Asked my inspector. And had no problem with it. But said to keep the picture to have proof of a trap. Alot of traps aren't exposed. Bathtubs, and inslab plumbing ect.
Dan, I'm in Chicago. PM sent.
Quote from: andyoutandabout on July 02, 2019, 10:33:39 PM
Dan, I'm in Chicago. PM sent.
I'm working today 7-7. Then will be at the house at 19:15 I'm about 35min. North of Milwaukee. I'll be off work tomorrow. Possibly Friday. I will be there working on the house all day.
Here's a picture of the ground loops hooked up in the garage. They didn't quite land in the 2x6 wall like they thought. But it'll work. The company that berried the loops. Came and hooked them up. To the lines I had run to the Geo unit under the stairs. Filled them with water and antifreeze. All part of the original $5000.
Hey Dan, how are you doing? Are you healed up from your deer strike?
You have your castle buttoned up? Burrrrrrrr Got your hydronic floors warm?
Hope you are ok amigo....you've been awfully quiet....
Quote from: Pat Conlon on December 21, 2019, 07:05:31 PM
Hey Dan, how are you doing? Are you healed up from your deer strike?
You have your castle buttoned up? Burrrrrrrr Got your hydronic floors warm?
Hope you are ok amigo....you've been awfully quiet....
Well. My knees now CRUNCH really loud and hurt when standing up from a chair. Or anything lower. Since killing the deer with my hip. But otherwise good. Just had my one year check up and doc said all the hardware is still intact. So as far as I'm concerned just the way it's going to be. Good to go.
Just working as much as I can. (Almost 2900hrs. Even after being off for knee replacement) And working on the house after work and all day on any day off.
Finally got sewer and water hooked up into the street. Contractor. Almost didn't get me squeezed in before winter.
Got all the drywall taped mudded and textured. One guy paid him $20/hr. $4700 did a great job. But had a lot of car trouble. Took him 2months. To do what he said would be a couple of weeks. I painted it all. Almost 120 gallons of paint. 10,600 sq ft of drywall. With the 12' ceilings. Got all the flooring down in the living space. Contractor owed me final stairs. Took out roughed in construction stairs. I have just gotten them stained and cleared. Don't have any pics after staining. Just finished all the conduit and lights. in the shop. 23 outlets on 3 circuits in the shop aera. 2 outlets for the welder. 80gall 2stage air compressor and central vacuum with hideahose.. don't have too many pictures but I'll try to post what I have
Here's some pics
One of the center shop
You have done a lot of work. Looks good.
Dave
Remind me, On your floor hydronic system, is it a potable water system tied into your water heater or do you have a closed system with a dedicated boiler? I assume you are using natural gas as your fuel so it is common for building departments to hold back on releasing the gas meter for installation until your final inspection and Certificate of Occupancy.
Thanks for checking in Dan.
I've found the technical detail of this build really interesting Dan. I have some interest in the building industry but I live in a moderate climate and find the extraordinary lengths you've gone to, which I guess is the norm over there, to generate and retain heat amazing.
I've enjoyed the photos along the way but the best shots will be of the FJ's permanently taking up residence in their new home!
When are you likely to occupy it? looks like it can't be far off.
Noel
PS. It got to 44C here on Friday and 47.9C a little further North, that's 118 F!!
Pat it is geothermal. All electric and I have 10,080 watts of solar. I don't have any of the furnace hooked up to the electric yet. As soon as I run the final wiring in the conduit I just finished. I will have to get the electrician to come and hook it up in the circuit breaker box. Only thing I'm not allowed to do. They are telling me that I have to have it completed. Down to the railing on the deck that the contractor finally put up a week ago. I said I would just block the door off but no. Have to have the railing up.
Geo unit supplies domestic hot water. Has a water jacket on the compressor that uses the heat off the compressor to heat domestic hot water.
So much work for extremely cold land. What happens when the snow covers your solar panels? Impressive build, even more so since you are working in pain and tired from your job.
Joe
It's a heat wave, right now 34f. The upper roof is steep enough. Just a couple of hours sunshine and it slides right off. The 3 panels on the lower roof take a while. To melt off. Once I get done with everything else I'll look into setting them up a little so it'll slide off them too.
Would probably take a contractor a couple of days with a crew. But unfortunately it's just me. And I have to work. In the shitter right now at work. Hopefully in a couple of months
Have t put up fancoils first. The put up kitchen cabinets. The 2 bathrooms, deck railings, and a million other little things.
Ok, thanks Dan, stay warm.....burrrrrrrr
Quote from: ribbert on December 22, 2019, 07:03:06 AM
I've found the technical detail of this build really interesting Dan. I have some interest in the building industry but I live in a moderate climate and find the extraordinary lengths you've gone to, which I guess is the norm over there, to generate and retain heat amazing.
I've enjoyed the photos along the way but the best shots will be of the FJ's permanently taking up residence in their new home!
When are you likely to occupy it? looks like it can't be far off.
Noel
PS. It got to 44C here on Friday and 47.9C a little further North, that's 118 F!!
I'm never the norm. Noel. My contractor was excited about doing the house. He said some people will do the insulation. (Although not as much I have) a few do in floor heat. A couple do solar. Never had anyone do geothermal. But your doing all of them.
My house is an attempt at being able to semi retire. Going to have zero bills for heating, cooling, lights, or hot water. Will never have to worry about the price of gas or electricity going up.
Made some more progress. Besides all the flooring being down I put up my cabinets and install the counters. Cabinets are all wall hung. No bases.
Picked up the vanity for the upstairs bathroom. Was a $918 display clearance for $318. It's actually made out of real wood. Not just wood veneer over partical board
Working on the custom walk-in shower pan tomorrow.
Looking amazing Dan!
Glad to see furnishings going in. :drinks:
WOW! If that's the shop I can't wait to see the living quarters! :mocking:
Amazing job :good2:
That is the kitchen cabinets. Newage shop cabinets. Very nice. Slow close hinges. Very thick metal. Double walled doors. Had to make the spacers. Between the uppers over the stove and refrigerator. The cabinets only come 28" wide stov and fridge are 30"
Quote from: Firehawk068 on April 10, 2020, 08:19:30 AM
Looking amazing Dan!
Glad to see furnishings going in. :drinks:
Not really furniture. It's the bathroom sink.
Furniture is just shammed in the living room.
Here's some of the shelving. I put up. To get some organization of the stuff. Have room in the back of the bathroom for 2 more 8' sections and a 6'. Then another 8' and 6' in front by the over Head door if needed. That would be 8-8' sections and 2-6' sections in the side parts storage section. All 8' tall. And can add 3' extension to the top if needed. Down the road.
WOW mate. Looking great! :good2:
Need a renter?
I'm tidy, hygienic and a non snorer.
If I ever get this done. Any FJ Owner that is heading this way has a place to stay. It's just taking me so long. Doing all the work by myself. And working 2800--3200 hrs a year at my real job.
So haven't posted in a little bit. So I'll update a little at a time. I poured the slope for the shower floor.
Sealer. Tiles in the bottom. And the tiles for the walls.
Dan,
I just found this thread and read the whole thing. That is an awesome project!
Thanks it's getting closer to being done. Just have a lot of little things to finish up. And maybe I can take a day off. Thought I would bring this a little more up to par.
I finished off the shower with a glass panel. Left enough room to get in with a walker. For a few years down the road.
Thanks to whoever fixed the pictures for me before I don't know why they keep doing that.
Faucet for bathroom sink
Quote from: giantkiller on November 25, 2020, 12:07:53 PM
Thanks to whoever fixed the pictures for me before I don't know why they keep doing that.
I fixed your photos.
I have found that uploading a photo directly from you phone can cause the photos to be turned 90°. The fix is to edit each photo by slightly cropping it before posting.
Fred
Thanks Fred I'll try that
When they finally got to hooking up my sewer and water last fall.
They hooked it up in the street. Never bothered pressure testing it. So I did it was loosing pressure. Slowly over several days it would leak down. Crap. Now what I started freaking out. I had mounted the incoming line to the stud it came out of the concrete right where the wall was. Entire down stairs had to be 5/8 fire rated drywall. So i had to tear it out of the wall. To make sure non of my connections were leaking. Non were. Now what.
That doesn't sound good Dan. Even in Texas all new construction requires a pressure test and the test witnessed by an inspector. Hope it is nothing serious. Very beautiful house.
He had already buried it all finished and left. Then I tested it. I obsessed over it. I repeatedly tested it over several weeks. Was a really slow leak. I'm like if he comes back and it's not the connection on his end. Then he's going say "have to Jack hammer your foundation and the slab". With my hydronic pex lines in it. I'm like screw it. It's before the meter I'll just let it leak. Then my luck it'll wash away the dirt and eventually my house will cave in. I went back and forth trying to figure out what to do for3 months. Kept testing it hoping it would magically stop. Then I realized that every time I tested it. It would bleed down and stop at a slightly higher level than it was before.....so I figured that there must be something inside the pex that's blocking it and it bleeds past and equalizes the pressure and stops... has to be something that sealed it pretty good..only thing it could be is some concrete got in and hardened. Wtf. Am I going to do now. Decided to keep adding air until I got it to stop at 70lbs. Then take the testing stuff off. And open the ball valve real quick maybe it will push whatever it is out to the 90...what have i got to loose.
Here we go. Open the valve bang!bang!bang! Sounds like it hit the 90.
Well here's what it was
So get that ordeal out of the way. I have to install the meter. So i get it all ready to go. Have to flush the line before you put the meter on. Put a piece of pex onto the ball valve and run it to the drain right there. Call the works guy to come and turn the water on so I can flush it out. He turns it on outside. I open the ball valve ccrrraaaa sounds like a frickin jet. I'm afraid it's going to blast the 1" pex clean off. I'm like that's some serious pressure.he says "yah when people buy a house in town they think the shower is going to knock them over." He said "I just left the pump house it93lbs." I think that's good lots of pressure. He leaves. And out of curiosity I look up average house water pressure. It says 45-50lbs. If you go over 60lbs it can cause premature alliance failures. And over 80lbs it can cause a hammer that ca split brass fittings. So i decided I had better get a pressure reducing valve. I go to town nobody has one in stock. So I had to order one. Got one I can rebuild. Takes5 weeks to come in.
A good picture of the domestic water manifold.
Picture of my front door. Neighbors thought I was kinda strange having an elephant on my front door. Was actually a dummy build door. Took it down and put my real door on finally. I put the elephant door on the shop bathroom ($75 apiece for 2 build doors) the other one is on my mechanical room.
Help Fred. I trimmed them all. And it worked until these.
Maybe my phone is getting tired. I'll stop posting till tomorrow.
Even with normal water pressure when water is turned back on to a system that has been drained it should be done very slowly. The incoming water is like a piston in a cylinder and compresses the air in the water lines ahead of it. The pressure of the air can reach hundreds of psi and break pipes.
Shop lights drywall done all three sections. Bought the shoplights from Red Tag sale at work. Got 35 of them for $50. Converted them to LEDS. 2600 lumans per bulb 3 bulbs per light. 8 lights in center shop. 4 lights in each side. Still in building disaster. :Facepalm: These are all old pictures just trying to get updated to the present.
Installing the Nexdec Lockdry aluminum decking. It forms a roof. Has hidden channels to run the water. This stuff is great. Has 2 in extra when you order 14' it comes 14'2". So it has an overhang for water run off. They send all the hardware for everything. Super easy install. Of course by myself. Have to wrap the treated wood framing and plywood. Supposedly can corrode the metal. I put black steel cladding on all the deck framing. To better match the house. The deck will make a 14'x26' very high carport. Or could use it for a covered porch downstairs after the concrete gets poured.
Good job mate!
I love the aluminium. Top work putting the poly film between the ally and timber. Ally has many great benefits, but part of its strength is also a weakness. It is corrosion resistant because it is highly reactive and the passive ally oxide layer forms super quick. The downside is if the ally oxide layer is depleted the ally will corrode rapidly. Ally is susceptible to alkalinity in the right conditions. Look up crevice corrosion for aluminium & you'll see some hilarious fails.
Un-anodised aluminium grows an aluminium oxide layer of around 7 micron (like the cut ege of your deck). Most building products such as aluminium doors, windows, cladding etc., have an electro-chemically grown (anodised) ally oxide layer of around 25 micron. Hard anodising can be up to 50 micron.
If the ally sits against continuously wet porous material (like plywood, mdf etc.) the water can become stagnate (depleted of oxygen).
In your case the treated timber will have other compounds that may, when wet, create either an acid or alkali, plus being covered by the ally, any damp under the cladding will remain trapped for quite a while, and become stagnate. The stagnate water will then start to hydrolise the passive ally oxide (anodising), rapidly depleting it, exposing un-protected ally. If there is any salt in the treatment of the timber the damp will become slightly acid like a mild hydrochloric acid. If there is any sulfides in the treatment, the damp will become like a mild sulfuric acid. Either way, with the depletion of the oxygen in the damp/water, the action of the hydrolysis, and introduction of a mild acid in-situ, the deck material will corrode in the affect patches, right through, in a matter of weeks (don't ask me how I know :dash2:)
This will be the case if the ally is powder coated with a polyester as well, as polyester is also susceptible to the same softening from mild acid contact (don't use fabric softener on your polyester clothes either :blush:).
Seeing your installation, I don't think your great grand kids will have any issues with the porch. As a rule of thumb, in severe marine environments, 25 micron ally has a corrosion rate of 1mm per 300 years (depending on the grade).
This is a great project to watch :drinks: :good2:
Troyskie
Sorry. The company is nexan for the Lockdry decking on the big deck. That makes a roof. And Nextdeck the regular aluminum decking. I used on balcony on the front of the house. Other than having to rip the first piece and cutting to length. It took less than 20 minutes for me to put it down. In the dark, after work.
The black thing is a pop up outlet. Code required on decks now.
Made the railings out of industrial railings that they use on the machines at work. Bought the fittings out of the Red Tag sale at work. Thought this is going to be cheap and look really kool. Well had to buy several more fittings at retail $17-$29 apiece. And stainless cable, the fittings, cutters, and the hydraulic crimper. Then I wanted to make the horizontal pipes black. Ended up with black anodized. Cost $2600 for those. Had to drill a couple million holes for the cables.
Same on the balcony and railings for the stairs.
I used a barn door for the bathroom that matches the front door on the house. As well as th pocket doors for the bedrooms. In stead of using the plastic shoes that slide on the outside of the door at the bottom. To keep the door from moving side to side. Pulling away from the wall. I glued 1/4" stainless rods sticking out of the floor. And routered a channel in the bottom of the doors. To slide over the rods so you can't see it. And it won't rub the paint of the outside of the bottom of the doors.
I trim all of the pictures and still some turn. Maybe my phone is getting tired again
I installed my own central vac. Man it really sucks. Ran the tubing along the ceiling and wall in the shop.
Has Hide-a-Hose system. Just pull as much of the house out of the outlet in the wall a saw you need. Slide the lever over to hold it. Flick on the switch. Sweep the floor. Slide the lever back over and it sucks the hose back into the wall. Flip the switch off. And close the outlet. And your done. I have 40' hose for upstairs. Actually reaches the far corner of the deck outside. And 50' downstairs. Reaches all the corners of the shop. I made the external wall mount box in the shop out of oak plywood scraps. The flimsy plastic one they sell costs $89.
So my mom bought me this utility sink shortly before she passed away. She said "I bought you this so you can use it in your shop."
She obviously bought it at a garage sale or something. It had no legs or anything. I tried the legs you can get for new sinks. Was no way to make them work. So I thought maybe I can get a cabinet to put it in. Went to several resale shops. Found this one measurements were about correct. Was $20. But the blue tags were 20% off that day. So $16.
My friend said hey I've got a piece of diamond plate that you can use for a counter. It was only 24" wide so no overhang. But it'll work. Glued it to the oak plywood and it worked out pretty good. I used the faucet and soap dispenser that came with the sink in the garage cabinets I put in the kitchen. Bought a better one for the kitchen sink. Cost me $16. For a pretty nice shop sink.
Thanks Mom. I love you.
(popcorn)
Great stuff
Thanks. Was hoping it wasn't too Boring.
I rented a bobcat $248 for the whole weekend. Picked it up early Friday morning. Had to have it back by 9 am Monday morning.
A friend of mine is a backhoe operator 30+ years. So he ran it.
Had 37 yards of gravel delivered. 2 quad axle dump trucks full. Could have used another. He spread it out and made a driveway around the back of the house. 6' off the house. Filled that with round rock left over from foundation. And 14' across for the drive. Then he started getting rid of the pile of dirt that was from grading the lot for the foundation. Spreading it out. Filling in around the house and yard. I used the neighbors wheelbarrow and picked rocks while he went back for more dirt. Then hauling it back to the far corner of the lot. And putting it on a steep embankment. That's too steep to mow. Just about killed me. All but the really big ones I hauled back there in the wheelbarrow. Then it started raining Sunday and had to stop. Still have a pile about 8-10' high by about 20' long. Have to spread it out after the concrete goes in next year.
Looks like a fun place for a dirt bike.
I went to start the ERV up for the first time. Since I'm living here and it's winter. It's a panasonic intelli-balance cold climate ERV. Very kool unit. Is infinitely adjustable. For negative or positive pressure. Has an 8 merv. Filter. Can run merv 13 filters. Is self adjusting. So if the filter is slowing the flow, or any restriction. It will ramp itself up. To maintain the turnover.
So plug it in. Turned it on. Nothing. Checked everything again. Nothing. Looked in the manual. Tried everything. Still nothing. Searched online couldn't find anything. I guess it's defective. I mounted it in the spare bedroom closet up by the ceiling. Super tight installation. Not going to be easy to take out. Decided to look one last time to try and find something on the web. I finally found where they were discussing their units were dead on arrival. One owner said their HVAC guy tore it out and sent it back. Turns out in the owners/installation manual. There's a sentence that says you can hook up an optional external switch to tun it on and off manually. Shows the terminals to hook the optional switch to and that's it. Well tuns out if you don't hook up the optional on off switch. You have to put a jumper wire across the terminal. No mention about that anywhere. Of course to the put the jumper wire in there. You have to take an access panel off on the side of the unit. So instead of. Removing the whole thing. I decided to cut through the drywall on the front of the closet. And put the jumper wire in. Started right up and works great. Installing it in the closet was a pain. Had to put intake and exhaust through the ceiling inside the closet. No room. So I ended up ordering silicone turbo tube 90s for the hook ups.
Quote from: FJmonkey on November 30, 2020, 07:21:23 PM
Looks like a fun place for a dirt bike.
Lol my neighbor asked if he could climb it with his ATV he didn't get too far decided it wasn't going to make it.
I had to put a fire door at the top of the stairs. To separate the garage/shop from the house. Has seals, self closing hinges, and 20 min. Fire rating. My walls are 2×6 with 1 inch foam on the outside. Plus 5/8" fire rated drywall. Ordered the widest jam I could get with out going to Custom jam. (Very expensive, and longer wait time). Not wide enough so had to fill in with metal trim. Used 2"×3" aluminum angle. Was going to paint it black. But think I'll I'll just clean it up. And leave it aluminum.
Phone must be getting tired again. Turned one of the photos side ways again
I forgot about the elephant in the room.
The shop bathroom door were it says Waudena millwork. I'm going to take that off and put McCoy's Custom Cycles. Just have to come up with a kool design for McCoy's Custom Cycles. Somehow Custom and Cycles come off of the 2 Cs in McCoy. I'm not good at graphics. Just metal work. Have to get someone to come up with something.
So it will say. Made in America. McCoy's Custom Cycles. Innovation in design. coming soon...
Here's my rough idea for a starter for your design Dan :good:
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/12/6213_02_12_20_3_12_13.jpeg)
Any similarity to the Teutul's OCC logo is purely co-incidental :sarcastic: :sarcastic:
Do you have any Hatfields in the family Dan ?.............that could make for a really catchy logo !!
Quote from: giantkiller on December 01, 2020, 09:55:01 PM
So it will say. Made in America. McCoy's Custom Cycles. Innovation in design. coming soon...
Dan, I like the sound of "American Made Muscle" and with a name like yours, I'd just have to incorporate "The Real McCoy".
Noel
Being a custom cycle fabricator, here's what Dan rides in the winter:
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/12/49_02_12_20_11_10_48.jpeg)
Quote from: Pat Conlon on December 02, 2020, 11:14:01 AM
Being a custom cycle fabricator, here's what Dan rides in the winter:
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/12/49_02_12_20_11_10_48.jpeg)
Lol thanks for posting that. Now that is serious thinking outside the box. I am. Doing something different with a sled transplant. I'm putting a sled motor Yamaha rx1 in my smart car. Can slap a turbo on it and get upwards of 300hp on pump gas. Car will only weigh about 1500lbs with the sled motor. Saw one that a guy stuck a stock skidoo turbo motor in it. I think 176 hp. Was running like shit. And he turned a 10 second 1/4.
There's a guy about 25 miles from me that gets 630hp outa the rx1 motor. Although the new sidewinder turbo. Is smaller lighter 3 cylinder. 200hp stock. Different exhaust. And a flash 300hp. May have to go that way. 300hp in a smart. Would be like 700 hp in a vette. Only way quicker with the cvt.
This is what the outside is going to look like from here on out. Pretty much done with the outside. Other than a shit load of concrete. As soon as the price comes back down to normal.
Have some floating 10" stainless steel house numbers ordered. Going to back light them. And mount them on the front of the balcony.
That looks great Dan.
Thanks. I'm about caught up to where I am on the house. I have a few more things to post.
I'm about to switch out of working on the house every single day no matter what. To working on some of the fun stuff once in a while. Turbo bike sled engine smart car. Might even go ice riding on the Raptor.
All work and no play makes Dan a dull boy. This one has really aged me. It's about to be worth it. You all are invited to come see my insanity in person.
Quote from: giantkiller link=topic=17349.msg200820#msg200820 date=1606881301
I forgot about the elephant in the room.
/quote]
:biggrin:
Quote from: giantkiller on December 07, 2020, 04:43:38 PM
Thanks. I'm about caught up to where I am on the house. I have a few more things to post.
I'm about to switch out of working on the house every single day no matter what. To working on some of the fun stuff once in a while. Turbo bike sled engine smart car. Might even go ice riding on the Raptor.
All work and no play makes Dan a dull boy. This one has really aged me. It's about to be worth it. You all are invited to come see my insanity in person.
"You all are invited to come see my insanity in person."
Sort of sounds like the makings of a central rally :drinks:
As you and I are well aware Wisconsin is a wonderful place to ride, here's a playground/loop I ran across which is a mere 80 miles hours away from Campbellsport:
https://driftlessroadadventures.com/river-bend-route?fbclid=IwAR1BCY6lFvgNKBjGZ3GFE8vf5cwzhzyQe60MuuOEsfXO-7vscSIRVqwnoNU&fireglass_rsn=true#fireglass_params&tabid=a63eaf270d02a5d6&start_with_session_counter=3&application_server_address=mc14.prod.fire.glass (https://driftlessroadadventures.com/river-bend-route?fbclid=IwAR1BCY6lFvgNKBjGZ3GFE8vf5cwzhzyQe60MuuOEsfXO-7vscSIRVqwnoNU&fireglass_rsn=true#fireglass_params&tabid=a63eaf270d02a5d6&start_with_session_counter=3&application_server_address=mc14.prod.fire.glass)
Then there's https://www.roadamerica.com/ (https://www.roadamerica.com/) which is what, 1/2 hour away? That would be an awesome place to hang out for a day (assuming there'll be races). https://www.roadamerica.com/motoamerica-superbike-series (https://www.roadamerica.com/motoamerica-superbike-series)
The EAA museum is just up the road too.
There are some good roads right around my house it's part of the kettles.
Finally got the HVAC guy from work to come and fire up the geothermal and infloor system I installed. Took about 10 hours for it to get caught up. Heating up the three slabs, 3 zones, 2400sqft downstairs and the 3 zones of warmboard, 1000sqft upstairs. Was out of the house for the last 4 or 5 hours. Holy crap house has freaking hot when I came back. 68° is way to high for the infloor heat.
Was -10f that morning. I'm sure the slabs got hotter than they should have before the ambient air temp. And over shot the heat. But 64f on the ambient is very comfortable with the infloor heat.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/12/49_02_02_21_10_56_20.png)
I'm currently doing a hydronic heated slab floor on a new house I'm building in Sedona.
I have 3 zones and each zone has a thermostat.
I have 2 choices for thermostat sensors,
1) an in slab, concrete embedded thermocouple or
2) an air temp. sensor
Which would you recommend Dan?
Quote from: Pat Conlon on February 02, 2021, 10:59:06 AM
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/12/49_02_02_21_10_56_20.png)
I'm currently doing a hydronic heated slab floor on a new house I'm building in Sedona.
I have 3 zones and each zone has a thermostat.
I have 2 choices for thermostat sensors,
1) an in slab, concrete embedded thermocouple or
2) an air temp. sensor
Which would you recommend Dan?
I know your question was directed to Dan. My 2 cents would be, thermocouples do go bad and having to replace one that is embedded in concrete would be a bigger headache then replacing an air sensor.
I have thermostats that have both. You can use the sensor for inslab or for outdoor temperature sensors. I put pex runs in the slabs. So I can put the sensors in later. Haven't gotten that far yet. I think for inslab house. That an outdoor sensor would be a good idea so you wouldn't have over heat events so much. But my 3 inslab zones are in the shop and storage downstairs so temperature swing won't be noticed. The 3 zones upstairs in living Area are warmboard. Warmboard in my opinion after studying everything that was out there. Is the most efficient and fastest response available. So really doesn't need infloor or outside temperature sensors. Like a slab.
Wow Pat looks like way more than 3 zones.
I used 3/4" barrier pex inslab. So the sensor can be easily pushed down the pex runs with a wire fish.
I obsessively studied every aspect of this house before, during, and even a little bit after
Quote from: Carson City Paul on February 02, 2021, 11:47:21 AM
I know your question was directed to Dan. My 2 cents would be, thermocouples do go bad and having to replace one that is embedded in concrete would be a bigger headache then replacing an air sensor.
Thanks Paul, I was thinking the exact same thing....I'm going to embed 2 thermocouples per zone...that way, if one goes bad, I have a back up.....and yes, per your suggestion, I'm going to bench test each thermocouple before I use them.
Quote from: giantkiller on February 02, 2021, 12:13:18 PM
I have thermostats that have both. You can use the sensor for inslab or for outdoor temperature sensors. I put pex runs in the slabs. So I can put the sensors in later. Haven't gotten that far yet.....
Ok, thanks Dan, I will look into that option....a thermostat that can use both sensor types...that's the answer.
Quote from: giantkiller on February 02, 2021, 12:13:18 PM
Wow Pat looks like way more than 3 zones.
There are 9 circuits total, left zone has 3 circuits, center zone has 4 and the right zone has 2 circuits.
Thanks guys, appreciated, very helpful....now let's return back to Dan's pad...
So I've had the geothermal heat pump running for 3 going on 4 weeks now. It's been great having warm floors under my bare feet when it's in the negative temperature's outside. That first day I was gone while the house got up to temperature. First thing I did when I got home was take my shoes and socks off. And go stand in the shower so I could feel the warm tiles of the shower floor. Woohoo!!
After all that effort Dan, you deserve to enjoy it.
+1 on what Mark said.... :good2:
That is awesome. My old EAA hangar in Elmira NY had a heated floor and I loved that system. It was gas vs geothermal, but having a warm floor is definitely cool. I mean warm.
Nice one Dan!
I like your thermostat solution. During install it is waaaay easier to add some redundancy than to try and 'work around' later.
Last year we heated our bathroom floors. Super simple compared to both your and Pats jobs. The only problem I had was stopping the kids from changing the setting to 'Surface of the Sun'.
When you made the comment of shoes & socks off, aaaah, super nice.
Thanks guys. It's been a long haul.
My Bosch geo unit has the optional heat recovery package. It makes your domestic hot water. Free.
The compressor for the heat pump in the unit makes lots of heat. Whether it's making heat for infloor heat in the winter. Or making cold water for the chilled water fan coils in the summer(AC).
So for the HRP they put a water jacket around the compressor. (Makes your hot water, and cools the compressor making it last longer) To take that heat and put it in the domestic hot water by circulating it through the jacket around the compressor. Well the water in Campbellsport. I've been told will kill a water heater in 3 or 4 years. The geo unit costs over $7000. They make storage tanks with heat exchangers in them to keep them separate. But they are expensive too $1200ish. So I had to engineer a way around that. This is my solution.
Looks similar to a chiller I use for home brew.
You're trying to shed heat off the compressor, but not subject the compressor's water jacket to your hard well water....so I'm looking at a heat exchanger....Correct?
Quote from: FJmonkey on February 20, 2021, 08:55:49 PM
Looks similar to a chiller I use for home brew.
Good eye Mark.
I was going to try to make the coils myself. But then I found pre-made coils for home brewing. For $10 more than buying a roll of copper. 2 coils one for the geo unit. Circulated with the pump built into the unit. And one for the domestic hot water. Circulated with the pump on the wall. That is tied into the pump on the unit. (So it only comes on when the unit runs) that goes to a 40 gallon electric hot water heater. With both the elements turned way down. And then I just have to replace the one $80 coil on the domestic side. Igloo cooler. Filled with water to exchange the heat. I put a spigot on the bottom of the cooler to hook a hose too. So I can drain the water.
Correct Pat
Quote from: Carson City Paul on February 02, 2021, 11:47:21 AM
I know your question was directed to Dan. My 2 cents would be, thermocouples do go bad and having to replace one that is embedded in concrete would be a bigger headache then replacing an air sensor.
Usually if you are installing a thermocouple in the slab, it installed via a conduit all the way back to controller on wall in that room, that way if it becomes faulty, you can pull it out and push another in. That's here in Australia on heated floors I've done.
Quote from: Sparky84 on February 20, 2021, 11:06:18 PM
Quote from: Carson City Paul on February 02, 2021, 11:47:21 AM
I know your question was directed to Dan. My 2 cents would be, thermocouples do go bad and having to replace one that is embedded in concrete would be a bigger headache then replacing an air sensor.
Usually if you are installing a thermocouple in the slab, it installed via a conduit all the way back to controller on wall in that room, that way if it becomes faulty, you can pull it out and push another in. That's here in Australia on heated floors I've done.
I thought about this Alan....If I put conduit in the slab (pvc sch40) and the thermocouple in the conduit, connect the conduit with a sweep up to a wall box....sure, a bad thermocouple will be retrievable, but how accurate will the thermocouple read the slab temp inside the pvc conduit?
Thin wall EMT is a no no encased in concrete....intermediate or rigid metallic conduit I guess would be ok for heat transfer....better than sch 40 plastic.
I think I will roll the dice and just directly embed the thermocouples in the concrete. I'll put in two, in case one goes bad.....I found the dual sensor thermostats Dan mentioned, so even if both embedded thermocouples go bad, the zone thermostat can always read the air temp.
Quote from: Pat Conlon on February 20, 2021, 11:44:29 PM
Quote from: Sparky84 on February 20, 2021, 11:06:18 PM
Quote from: Carson City Paul on February 02, 2021, 11:47:21 AM
I know your question was directed to Dan. My 2 cents would be, thermocouples do go bad and having to replace one that is embedded in concrete would be a bigger headache then replacing an air sensor.
Usually if you are installing a thermocouple in the slab, it installed via a conduit all the way back to controller on wall in that room, that way if it becomes faulty, you can pull it out and push another in. That's here in Australia on heated floors I've done.
I thought about this Sparky.....If I put conduit in the slab (pvc sch40) and the thermocouple in the conduit, connect the conduit with a long sweep up to a wall box....sure, the thermocouple will be retrievable, but how accurate will the thermocouple read the slab temp inside the pvc conduit?
Thin wall EMT is a no no encased in concrete....intermediate or rigid metallic conduit I guess would be ok for heat transfer....better than sch 40 plastic.
I think I will roll the dice and just directly embed the thermocouples in the concrete. I'll put in two, in case one goes bad.....I found the dual sensor thermostats Dan mentioned, so even if both embedded thermocouples go bad, the zone thermostat can always read the air temp.
I've always installed conduit bent with large sweep as one, no separate manufactured bend and no corrugated conduit either.
Then the floor heat installer installs thermocouple afterwards.
As you said Pat, a second sensor installed would be good , just in case!
As for accurate temp in slab, you'll get to know what you want after using it, like most things.
Enjoy
Pat the piece of pex on the left side sticking out. Is the channel for the sensor to slide into. It is embedded into the concrete. So it goes to about the center of the slabs. The pex will be fine and If you are worried about accuracy. You could fill the pex with a fluid. Oil of some kind so it won't evaporate but I don't think it would be necessary. The end of the pex that is in the slab is plugged of course. I put tape over the ends. So stuff won't get into the pipes. The manifolds actually had a Schrader valve and a pressure guage. So it could be monitored while the concrete was poured. I forgot. Mine maintained 75 psi. For over a year before I got around to hooking them up
Thanks guys...
I have a cold climate ERV. Energy (or Entalpy) Recovery Ventilation system. Out going stale air passes by the incoming fresh air through basically a honeycomb. So they never actually touch. But they exchange the heat in the winter. Or cold in the summer. Since I have an ERV it also transfers some of the humidity.
I figured it probably raised the temperature enough so that the incoming air at least wasn't super cold.
The other morning it was -16f when I got up. So I thought it would be a good time to check the difference between the outgoing air and the incoming air. I took my laser thermometer and measured the outgoing air at the vent in the bathroom. 70f. And at the incoming fresh air in the bedroom. 68f. Wow just a 2 degree loss. From -16 to 68. Simply amazing. Doesn't seem possible to me.
What drives heat exchange is delta T. After that surface area, velocity (ie time in contact with surface area), resistance (ie copper better than Aluminum better than steel).
Quote from: Motofun on February 24, 2021, 07:01:39 AM
What drives heat exchange is delta T. After that surface area, velocity (ie time in contact with surface area), resistance (ie copper better than Aluminum better than steel).
Yes the honeycomb is a massive amount of surface. I'm sure. But it still doesn't seem possible. You would think it would meet in the middle. Halfway between the -16f and the 70f. Somehow almost all of the heat is coming back in with the fresh air.
Hey Dan, maybe the difference could be that your laser IR thermometer is reading the surface temp of the register vents, which could be different than the air stream? Is the steel vent register influenced by the 70* ambient indoor air temp?
IOW, the temp of the fresh air stream affects the skin temp of the register, for sure, but perhaps the ambient indoor air temp also plays a part in the temp of the register?
I've read that 75% efficiency is the norm when the erv units are new. Efficiency drops off after the heat exchanger gets some hours on it....so keep your filters clean.
I'm debating an erv for my house. I'm not sure I want another mechanical system to fuss over...
Being a desert rat, I'm a fan of evaporative coolers, a low cost alternative to a/c (in low humidity) plus a great source of fresh air when SWMBO burns the tortillas.
Quote from: Pat Conlon on February 24, 2021, 11:12:33 AM
plus a great source of fresh air when SWMBO burns the tortillas.
And that's how the fight started...... :sarcastic:
Pat. The registers are plastic. I made sure the thermometer was reading inside of the ducts. I only have it pulling 50cfm. Since my living space is just under 1000 sq ft. They run anywhere from 55% efficiency all the way to 93%. Mine only uses 17 watts at 50cfm.
It comes with a merv 8 filter. Can get a merv 13 filter. It automatically adjusts itself if anything restricts the airflow.
Very cool, I'm looking at the Panasonic cold climate erv units adjustable 50 to 100 cfm.
I'm happy to hear you like it.
Fresh air in the house is good.
Quote from: Pat Conlon on February 24, 2021, 10:57:06 PM
Very cool, I'm looking at the Panasonic cold climate erv units adjustable 50 to 100 cfm.
I'm happy to hear you like it.
Fresh air in the house is good.
Lol! That's what I have. I don't think you'll need the cold climate version. They make regular moderate climate ones.
So I have another crazy idea I'm thinking about... I don't have any concrete on any of my driveway. Or parking areas yet... I was sitting here looking at all the snow in my driveway. I just drive over it with the truck. A couple of times it was probably a foot and a half deep. And it got me to thinking.... I'm going to put in a solar/hydronic heated driveway. So I'll never have to shovel, plow, or snowblow. EVER. Won't have to buy anything to do those things. Won't have to buy gas, salt. Won't have to do maintenance on any of those things.
I will install the pex and installation just like I did in the shop slabs. Will use solar hot water panels. A holding tank behind the panels. (The biggest water heater I can get cheap) Will have a small photovoltaic panel that will run a circulation pump that will pump the water/antifreeze through the panels and then through the driveway. Only when the sun is shining. Obviously won't melt it during the storm. But as soon as the sun shines it will. Since I already know how to do it myself. Should only add a couple thousand to the cost of the driveway (depending on the cost of the panels). And will cost zero to run. :wacko3: :wacko3:
Here's a lesson I learned...I had a solar domestic water system on my Palm Desert house for 25 years. 2 double glazed Fafco panels which circulated water into into a 82 gallon storage tank which fed into my regular 50 gallon natural gas water heater. Basically free hot water, but always with a gas back up.
Great system until the freeze sensor failed one cold night.
I used a Grundfos circ. pump to move the water from the tank thru the panels and when temp was below 40*f this system would come on and run for 1 minute out of every 10 minutes preventing the water from freezing in the panels.....anyhoo, the sensor failed, the pump stayed off and the frozen water split the copper tubes in both Fafco panels, FUBAR'ed...
I had an open system for domestic potable hot water, you will have a closed system where you can run a glycol mixture, although will that mixture be enough to keep your panels from freezing at night?
I would plan on an anti freeze function on your circ. pump. ......and redundant sensors.
On your concrete driveway, specify air entrainment in your mix, for prevention of spalling.
Cheers
At my old EAA chapter, we filled our heating system with antifreeze instead of water. That was before I got there, and the thought was to be able to save money by leaving the heat off. That would require an additional investment in antifreeze. I had thought about doing the same thing for my front porch when I redid it, but I'm thinking I'll just use plain concrete and shovel it.
Yep glycol. Better yet ethanol. Since I decided to do this. I found a company that makes wood boilers for heating. They are in the very northwest corner of the state. And they are doing the same thing. For solar heating system for their home. Go figure. Make wood boilers but use solar. Probably both. Going to visit them this summer. I'm more worried about what to do with the heat dump during the summer.
Thanks for the info on the concrete Pat. Didn't know about that. Will be sure to talk to the concrete guy.
For what it's worth. When I replaced the calcium solution in the tractor tires I used windshield washer fluid...good to -20F (-30C). I bought a 55 gallon drum. The stuff is inert, doesn't cause rust or affect paint and it sits forever in plastic containers so it would probably be a good fluid for your intended purpose.
Quote from: Motofun on March 12, 2021, 06:52:56 AM
For what it's worth. When I replaced the calcium solution in the tractor tires I used windshield washer fluid...good to -20F (-30C). I bought a 55 gallon drum. The stuff is inert, doesn't cause rust or affect paint and it sits forever in plastic containers so it would probably be a good fluid for your intended purpose.
Wow would never have thought of that. Thanks Was a 55 gallon drum expensive?
Quote from: Pat Conlon on March 08, 2021, 08:59:44 AM
On your concrete driveway, specify air entrainment in your mix, for prevention of spalling.
Cheers
With little regard for cost, I'd also specify adding polypropylene fibres.
Quote from: giantkiller on March 12, 2021, 09:37:32 AM
Quote from: Motofun on March 12, 2021, 06:52:56 AM
For what it's worth. When I replaced the calcium solution in the tractor tires I used windshield washer fluid...good to -20F (-30C). I bought a 55 gallon drum. The stuff is inert, doesn't cause rust or affect paint and it sits forever in plastic containers so it would probably be a good fluid for your intended purpose.
Wow would never have thought of that. Thanks Was a 55 gallon drum expensive?
Sorry, about 10 years ago, I forget. After calcium causing my wheels to rust it was worth the cost.
I'm getting ready to run my air lines for the shop. And also the side where the bikes are going to be parked. And wanting suggestions. I'm going to run supply trunk along the ceiling and drop down to outlets on the walls. Should I run a line down to each outlet. Or just one line down to a horizontal line for the outlets on each wall? Also how close should I space the outlets? I'm going to have one hose reel above the bike lift. And one over by garage door.
On the side where the bikes are going to be parked. How many outlets should I have there? To check the tires before I take one for a ride.
Thanks, Dan
Quote from: giantkiller on April 13, 2021, 09:43:23 PM
I'm getting ready to run my air lines for the shop. And also the side where the bikes are going to be parked. And wanting suggestions. I'm going to run supply trunk along the ceiling and drop down to outlets on the walls. Should I run a line down to each outlet. Or just one line down to a horizontal line for the outlets on each wall? Also how close should I space the outlets? I'm going to have one hose reel above the bike lift. And one over by garage door.
On the side where the bikes are going to be parked. How many outlets should I have there? To check the tires before I take one for a ride.
Thanks, Dan
I like the idea of dropping vertically to each outlet with the drop extending well below the outlet and including a drain at the bottom of each.
I wouldn't think it is possible to have too many outlets!
I'm going to have a drain on the bottom of each outlet for sure. I really can't decide on how many/close to have them for the shop. I have 16'x17" work bench beside the bike lift. And 18'x30" main work bench along the end wall. Making an L shape. Probably have more outlets there? But I just don't know how close/many I should have.
Or how many for the bike parking side?
As Chris says, you can't have too many (just think of them as extra capacity once up to pressure), but considering that air hoses generally have a bit of length to them, you shouldn't need too many. Just take an average length air hose you currently use and make sure you can reach all points of the garage. You might be surprised how few you actually need. There's no great advantage to having outlets right next to where you're working if a reasonable length hose will reach the job.
If you extend the drop below the outlet, fit a cheap ($5) 1/4 turn lever ball valve on the bottom, otherwise you'll never drain them once the novelty wears off. If you plan on doing any painting, you should have a water trap and filter at the compressor anyway.
Air outlets are not like power outlets, you really only use one at a time, there aren't multiple devices that need to remain plugged in.
It must be getting exciting Dan, just about there.
Noel
Quote from: giantkiller on April 13, 2021, 09:43:23 PM
I'm getting ready to run my air lines for the shop. And also the side where the bikes are going to be parked. And wanting suggestions.
Thanks, Dan
Dan - I did the header around the top approach and dropped straight down for the outlets... I just put two long hose reels near the shop doors, a drop for my lift, and a drop for the sand blast cabinet. I use the reels mainly, but wanted to be able to keep lines to a minimum when using air tools an cars/bikes and wanted a dedicated line for the blaster.
My biggest tip would be to use RapidAir or a similar product for the system. You can easily add or delete outlets or even re-route the whole thing pretty easily. Here's a link...https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200484023_200484023?cm_mmc=Google-pla&utm_source=Google_PLA&utm_medium=Air%20Tools%20%2B%20Compressors%20%3E%20Compressed%20Air%20Piping%20%2B%20Accessories%20%3E%20Air%20Compressor%20Piping%20Kits&utm_campaign=RapidAir&utm_content=20923&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8-nX2v797wIVNAytBh1wQQJwEAQYASABEgLjJ_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds (https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200484023_200484023?cm_mmc=Google-pla&utm_source=Google_PLA&utm_medium=Air%20Tools%20%2B%20Compressors%20%3E%20Compressed%20Air%20Piping%20%2B%20Accessories%20%3E%20Air%20Compressor%20Piping%20Kits&utm_campaign=RapidAir&utm_content=20923&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8-nX2v797wIVNAytBh1wQQJwEAQYASABEgLjJ_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds). Another benefit you won't need... I had the compressor setup with RapidAir system in San Jose and moved it up here to Oregon... reconfigured, added a few more bits, and was able to reuse the whole thing. I believe RPM uses the same product in their shop.
Frank
We do indeed. The line is reinforced with aluminum. The biggest PITA about it was without a tubing straightener it is tough to get it straight. Other than that no complaints at all. As a matter of fact we will be installing a second one in our trailer as time permits between races. The manifolds have a ball valve built in to drain them so they are easy to use.
We have have it ran around the top and then have 6 manifold drop downs located around the shop. Realistically we use 2 manifolds 95% of the time but it is better to have the option to hookup in different parts of the shop.
I still haven't gotten to set up the shop at all yet. I cleaned up enough to spin the lift around and put it into place last night after work. And did that tonight after work. So I can put Pat's new 89 up there to take the carbs off and send them to Robert. It's going to suck because it still has the airbox lol. :sarcastic:
No hurry Dan, we have all summer. Really.
Anyone want an oem air box off a '89?
Quote from: Pat Conlon on May 03, 2021, 12:10:40 AM
No hurry Dan, we have all summer. Really.
Dan,
Please hurry, I am trying to entice Pat to Fly-N-Ride from Wisconsin to Arkansas for the Central FJ Rally 10-14 June :smile:
Fred
Quote from: Pat Conlon on May 03, 2021, 12:10:40 AM
No hurry Dan, we have all summer. Really.
Anyone want an oem air box off a '89?
Pat, of course Dan needs to jump all over this - - since he is doing a favor for a friend he can leap frog "just getting the bike lift setup" ahead of all the other house tasks he's supposed to do first.......then, as soon as yours is done, the turbo bike "might as well" go on the lift, you know, "to get it out of the way"....
Quote from: aviationfred on May 03, 2021, 03:06:38 AM
Quote from: Pat Conlon on May 03, 2021, 12:10:40 AM
No hurry Dan, we have all summer. Really.
Dan,
Please hurry, I am trying to entice Pat to Fly-N-Ride from Wisconsin to Arkansas for the Central FJ Rally 10-14 June :smile:
Fred
That would be fun Fred, but Dan has been putting in some serious overtime at work. His plate is full.
If I miss the Central Rally, no worries, we will get a ride in together, my route back to Arizona takes me through your neighborhood.
Quote from: fj1289 on May 03, 2021, 08:48:26 AM
Quote from: Pat Conlon on May 03, 2021, 12:10:40 AM
No hurry Dan, we have all summer. Really.
Anyone want an oem air box off a '89?
Pat, of course Dan needs to jump all over this - - since he is doing a favor for a friend he can leap frog "just getting the bike lift setup" ahead of all the other house tasks he's supposed to do first.......then, as soon as yours is done, the turbo bike "might as well" go on the lift, you know, "to get it out of the way"....
Yep. That's what I thought too. I haven't done anything normal. For way too long. Like working on bikes. Building kool projects. Going to rallies. Talking to people. :wacko3:
I had to go pick up my truck from my friend's shop. And give him back his loaner. And talk to him for an hour. After work. So didn't do much when I got home. But still pulled the carbs off Pat's bike...even though I had to pull the airbox first :lol:
I work from 7am to 7pm. So don't know when I'll get to somewhere to send them to Robert. What's the best way to send them?
Wow Dan, many have complained about the time to reinstall the air box, but 12 hours to remove one... No wonder your place is taking so long to complete. :sarcastic:
Quote from: FJmonkey on May 03, 2021, 10:37:19 PM
Wow Dan, many have complained about the time to reinstall the air box, but 12 hours to remove one... No wonder your place is taking so long to complete. :sarcastic:
Right away monkey. First I worked for 12hrs. Then got my truck. Took 1 1/2hrs. Then took the carbs off. Ate a little while I posted. So took 1/2hr. Lol. Now I gotta go to sleep and get up in 6 1/2hrs and go back to work lol. I'm too old for this. I used to be able to survive on 4 1/2hrs of sleep. But just can't even make it on 61/2hrs. Old age sucks. Ok rant about old age is over. Some times in my old age I just ramble on. What was I talking about? :Facepalm:
Dan, no worries, nothing but love...
Lol. Thanks Monkey.
Ok so. I got the last big labor intensive expensive /$40,000+ project done on November 20th.
Thought I would walk you through it from the beginning.....
I didn't have any of the concrete in for the driveway...so I'm looking at it. And I get another crazy idea in my head. I have done inslab hot water heat already. Installed all the styrofoam pex and manifolds in the 3 zones in the shop and storage downstairs myself. So I know I can do it. Hot water, solar heated driveway.
.. Although a lot bigger about 8000sqft of concrete this time. 7800ft of 3/4" pex. Plus making the 3 manifolds for the 25 loops of pex.
First had to draw up some plans for the driveway so I can figure out the loops. And get an accurate amount of pex and general idea of the manifolds.
So. Figured out it would be about $3000 for pex and brass. Ok let's do this! Talk to the concrete guy. And told him what I Wanted to do. First he looked like I had just punched him in the chest. I asked is that going to be a problem. Noo. As he shrugged a little and rolled his head side to side.
Then I explained to him how I was going to do it. With solar hot water panels and a solar photovoltaic panel to run each pump. Probably 2 pumps.
After explaining it to him he got all excited about it.
Then after making plans with concrete guy. I ordered all the pex and brass. :Facepalm:
The $3000 was based on prices before the insanity. I have over $5000 into pex and brass. Mostly brass.
Ouch $4700 into styrofoam. Ouch. Then I was going to use the staples for the pex to styrofoam. Well staples for 3/4" were on backorder until December 10th. So had to go with rebar mesh and zip ties. Another $1800. Ouch Ouch Ouch. But decided to go ahead. Anyway. :wacko3:
So had to make the manifolds. First had too cut 17ft of 3/4" coper pipe into all the 1 3/4" nipples I need for the manifolds. And clean them all up for soldering.
Too be continued tomorrow
I thought the driveway was OK the way it was.
Hey, tested negative for Wuhan flu, after being incarcerated in a 1000sq. ft. house for ten days with two people who tested positive.
Still think my dog should have been tested.
Ted
_______________________________________________
Feeling it today:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=wKdOrFGojQE
Hey Ted glad you didn't get it. My nephew's girlfriend of 15years healthy no underlying conditions. Died in the hospital in a short time. He never got it even though they slept in the same queen-sized bed. He has severe asthma.
Thanks it sure is good to have concrete. Not too have the Big step up into the house.
I don't know that I didn't get it. Just know I don't have it now, or, more correctly, since the test on Monday.
Be safe, brother.
Ted
The concrete guys came leveled the gravel and put in the forms for the first section under the deck and around the south side of the house. Then the 2" styrofoam went in then the rebar mesh. And then I mounted the manifold for the first section and ran the pex loops. It was already cool out so running the pex and zip tieing it to the rebar mesh really sucks especially when you are by yourself.
I did my floor pex last winter on a cold cold day. I kept the 300' coils of pex in my Yukon with the engine idling and heat on full. This kept the coils toasty warm until I used them.
Struggling with cold pex sucks.
Sure does I turned on one section of the inslab heat. Slab was 89f laid the coils out on the Slab. They were warm for a little while. But got cold pretty fast. Especially when doing it by myself.
They poured the first section.
More pics
Wow you must be over the moon that it got done before winter proper. I know you weren't expecting that. With a clear mind and a project finished, time to spin up that turbo.
Yep turbo and smart/sled motor. Back to fun projects.
Next the concrete guys leveled the gravel and put in the forms for the next 2 sections. Then the styrofoam and rebar mesh for those 2 sections. And then I get to push in the pex and manifolds for the next 2 sections.
By this time it was. Highs in the low 40s
Next day...
Oh yah took about 2800 zip.ties. My fingers will never be the same.
Was funny when I was putting the pex down on the last 2 sections people would slam on their brakes and back up. Or drive around the block several times. Had one guy stopped got out and looked. Then said I'll be right back... came back 20 minutes later with a note book and asked me all kinds of questions. And and wrote it all down. Concrete guy said you're quite a celebrity right now. "I've had people a couple of towns away from here asking me about it." "Had people ask me if it's even legal." He said "I told them you can put whatever you want under your driveway."
Turns out it used to be illegal in Wisconsin. Because it uses to much energy. Mine would be exempt anyway. Because it's all solar. Not hooked to the grid in any way.
What % glycol will you be using? 50/50?
How many square feet of solar collectors do you think is it going to take ? I would guess you would be circulating water through whenever the sun is out to store as much heat in the concrete as possible between snowstorms. Tinting the concrete dark could help collect more solar heat also. Does the snow slide off of the solar collectors fairly quickly ?
I won't be able to afford the solar panels until next year. Not sure about antifreeze yet Pat. Will study that for a while. My ground coils use ethanol
I'm leaning towards some panels that are 48" × 10'. Have room for 12 panels. 10 of them is 170,000 btus I'm going to get 2 of the biggest electric hot water heaters I can find for storage tanks. 1 for the main driveway from the road biggest zone and 1 for the other 2 smaller zones. Going to build basically a triangular shape lean-to on the whole south wall of the house. Up to the eves. It's over 12' to the eves. So the panels will be more vertical. Better for collecting the winter sun. And not so for summer.
Thus won't have to worry about snow on panels. My 3 photovoltaic panels are on the lower roof. And lay flatter so snow sits on them longer. But the 25 panels on the upper roof melt off really quickly.
Very impressive! My cynical side forces me to ask.....What happens to the water that melts off the driveway? I know in my case when I plow my driveway the snow often stays around for weeks if not months. Did you do a pay back evaluation? True, it would be hard to find comparables,,,, say against have a plowing contract?
Quote from: Motofun on December 09, 2021, 08:50:03 AM
Very impressive! My cynical side forces me to ask.....What happens to the water that melts off the driveway? I know in my case when I plow my driveway the snow often stays around for weeks if not months. Did you do a pay back evaluation? True, it would be hard to find comparables,,,, say against have a plowing contract?
It should be liquid so will be ice off the edge of the driveway but I really don't care if it stays there all summer. This whole thing is an experiment. Could not find any previous examples. Not really worried about pay back. Just no bills to worry about. Zero. Other than sewer water and taxes. If i do ever retire. And no work (general maintenance)when I get a little older.
And free up time and money for fun things now.
They came and poured the main part of the driveway from the road to half-way through the main center garage door. They used a huge conveyor truck. From the road.
Oh yeah I forgot to say 4 truck loads for the first section. 4 trucks for this section.
They came 3 days later due to weather and did the last section. Got there in the morning before I got home from work. 3 more truck loads.
Poured the approach and sidewalk last
My favorite picture of my house so far.
Had landscaper come and fill in around the slabs seeded and straw mulched.
More pics
Really looks awesome Dan. That is a whole lot of mud!
Ted
Quote from: Ted Schefelbein on December 09, 2021, 10:16:48 PM
Really looks awesome Dan. That is a whole lot of mud!
Ted
Yep 11 really big cement truck loads.
Quote from: giantkiller on December 09, 2021, 08:44:03 PM
My favorite picture of my house so far.
There's a house in that photo ??
All I can see is a really awesome garage and workshop :sarcastic:
Quote from: Millietant on December 10, 2021, 03:12:06 PM
Quote from: giantkiller on December 09, 2021, 08:44:03 PM
My favorite picture of my house so far.
There's a house in that photo ??
All I can see is a really awesome garage and workshop :sarcastic:
1000sqft of living space upstairs 2400sqft of shop and storage below.
My older brother says it's my MAN-SION. Lol. It's designed by Me for Me. Entire downstairs is always heated and cooled to what ever temperature I want it to be. And doesn't cost me anything.
Me being a forklift driver. I accidentally designed and self built a Net Zero shop/house. :good:
It's another one of my crazy creations.
Thanks for traveling along with me on this LLLOOONG journey.
Like I said before if any of my fj brethren need a place to stay. Or a place to fix their bike on their way through my place will always be available.
It is a shop, with living quarters above, situated in some of the nicest motorcycle riding imaginable. Green fields, decent roads, Lake Michigan a hop, skip, and a jump away. Dan is a hell of a host.
When I was there, I met a guy named Pat, and a guy named Dan, who turned out to be brothers I didn't know I had.
My brothers, working on my bike, in Dan's shop:
(https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/67131_600x400.jpg) (https://www.jpgbox.com/page/67131_600x400/)
Outside the Mexican restaurant, on the shore of Lake Michigan, Pat and I, and three great bikes. It was an awesome day.
(https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/67132_600x400.jpg) (https://www.jpgbox.com/page/67132_600x400/)
Ted
Sure was Ted hope to have many more.
Very impressive Dan
That's going to be very cool...I mean hot to not have to shovel that massive driveway
Randy - RPM
Quote from: racerrad8 on December 12, 2021, 07:39:13 PM
Very impressive Dan
That's going to be very cool...I mean hot to not have to shovel that massive driveway
Randy - RPM
Thanks Randy. And thank you for allowing me a place to share my LLLOOONG journey.
I was thinking on nice sunny days I could divert all the heat to the slab under the deck have a cookout and sit around in my shorts in the middle of winter. Lol.
So I was at my friends house last summer. And he has this eight foot long peice of oak made out all different sized pieces finger joined together. Pulled out to the front of his garage. His ex girlfriend used to work at a great big cabinet maker. And she ran around on her breaks gathering up all the scraps of oak and had the guys glue them together to make him a workbench for his garage. She even had 3 six foot long 4×4s made of the same wood so he could cut them in half and have 6 legs. That was 17 years ago.
I said what are you going to do with that. He said he was going to give it to his cousin. But his cousin didn't know what he was going to do with it. I said I know what I'll do with it.
It was only 24" wide and 4" thick. And weighed about a thousand pounds.
So I took it back to the same cabinet manufacturer. 5 minutes from my house. And asked if they could make it as wide as possible and plain it down to 2 1/4". They said sure. And that they could only make it 36" wide. I told them no hurry just do it when they got the time... 6 months go by and. I hadn't heard from them. I stopped by and went into the office. And asked about it. Nobody knew anything about it. They called the owner at home and he knew all about it and it was done. The guy I was talking to was the plant manager. He brought it around on a forklift and loaded it into my truck. And said. There you go. I said thanks but I haven't paid for it. He said oh! I'll have to go talk to the guy who did the work on it... He comes back and says. He plained the original down to just over 2 1/4". Added all the rest on to make it wider and then sanded it all down to match. And it's 39" wide. I'm thinking oh shit this is going to cost me $3 or $400 or something. He says how about a hundred bucks? I said ok, thank you very much... That's the very long story of how I got this really cool custom peice of solid oak. For $100
So here's what I'm going to do with it. I'm putting it on some steel workbench legs And it's going to be the island in my kitchen. The legs have angled feet so they look kinda cool. Going to paint them satin black to match my cabinets.
Here's some pictures of it so far. Going to Have 11" overhang one side and one end for 4 stools for seating. 39" wide × 90" long.
I don't do anything with wood working. I'll find some minimal stain for it. That'll look good. But does anybody know what the best most durable clear coat. I should use. That'll stand up to water etc.
More pictures.
Quote from: giantkiller on January 27, 2022, 11:40:50 PM
I don't do anything with wood working. I'll find some minimal stain for it. That'll look good. But does anybody know what the best most durable clear coat. I should use. That'll stand up to water etc.
More pictures.
I think a good Epoxy Bar Top finish would do the trick
https://youtu.be/pcsFdQXjE94
Fred
Just realized I didn't post any pictures of the island after I stained and cleared it. What a PIA. Had to sand it down and start all over. Still not great. But not doing it again. That's why I like metal. Wood sucks. Still have to lightly blast and paint the workbench legs satin black. And then carry the top up the stairs and put it all together in the kitchen.
Going to have 3 stools on the living room side. Get rid of the kitchen table and chairs.
Could easily seat 8 stools around it when I have company over.
The water here's wreaking havoc on my equipment waterheater, faucets, toilet etc. I hate salt slimy feeling. So have been resisting putting in a softener. Then I found Nuvo h20 whole house filter and softener. Softener works from citrus. And will actually remove old deposits I had to be a littlest inventive on mounting it. This mounts on the wall. Had planned on floor based salt system. This is a couple weeks of use.
Inventive mounting. Spaced it out in front of PRV and incoming water main. With a piece of oak 4×4.
No flushing the system. No electricity/water usage. No electrical/drain hookup need. No hauling 40lb bags of salt. Can be used to water house plants. Drinking. Is septic compatible.
The manor (larger system) cartridges handle about 50,000 gallons. If you sign up for auto ship. They will send you both cartridges every 6months. And give you free shipping 10% discount. $149. I will use about 34,000 gallons a year. So will get a good backup of cartridges. And then cancel auto ship.
Dan, thanks for the update...your table turned out bitchen. :good2:
Question on your water filter cartridges... when do you know to change the filters?
Is there a pressure increase as the filters silt up? I see a pressure gauge on the system.
.....or is the filter change based on flow volume? After X amount of gallons, the filters are changed.....
......or is it based on the time of service? After X months, the filters are changed.
Cheers lad
Pat
They say on their website that the manor system will treat 50,000 gallons. And the smaller system only treats 20,000 gallons. I use about 34,000 gallons a year. So I'm going to shoot for once a year. I'm sure it depends on your water also. My water tastes much better. Now. They do auto ship. Every 6 months.
The pressure gage is because water pressure is very high here. 93 psi. I installed a PRV. And the gage is for setting the pressure to the house. 65psi is considered on the high end for apliance life etc. Pressure above 80psi if you have a water hammer situation can actually blow out brass fittings.
I posted the system because I was amazed at how fast it made a difference. And it really is way better than a salt system. Simplicity, ease of installation. No hauling salt. No electrical/water usage. And I have always hated the slimy feeling of salt in the shower.
So I thought people might want to know about it.
Thanks Dan!
About 2 more weeks and it's pretty much cleaned up.
So I have another crazy idea for my house.
(In case you haven't read through this. My house is super insulated, geothermal heating and cooling, solar hydronic heated driveway, and solar electric power.) And no I'm not a tree hugger. I will have no bills and no payments. Except for sewer water and taxes. So I can maybe retire some day. And have more money to play with from here on out. I. Personally. Living in Wisconsin. Kinda like global warming.
I haven't purchased the battery backup for the house yet. Batteries have been continuously improving and getting cheaper. Plus they are actually the most expensive part of going solar. And don't last as long as the rest of the system.
I'm going to buy an Aptera car for my house battery backup system. I'm going to buy (already pre-ordered $100 down) the 600 mile range, 60 kilowatt battery. Three motor. 0-60 in 3.5sec. Top speed 110mph. Solar powered 25 miles of range a day in Wisconsin. I commute 19 miles total to work and back. For $39,400. The battery in this car would run my entire house. For 4 days without solar.
To get a 60 kilowatt-hour battery for the house would be probably $40--50,000. So getting a bigger battery than I would ever get. Cheaper than I could get it. With a solar powered car for free.
Dan, I hope Aptera makes it to market, but I've seen enough smoke and mirrors to be doubtful.
I remain skeptical on these start ups that are soliciting investors.
The Ford F-150 Lightening looks more like a sure bet. Don't know the kWh on the Ford but I've read that you can energize your house system off the Ford.
Unless your utility has some punitive costs like crazy "time of use" rates, or they are subject to frequent power interruptions, there is no reason you need to design an $$$ off grid system.
A net metered system is more cost effective. You have the power there on site, might as well take advantage of it.
I have been tracking that LiFePO4 batteries are coming down in cost. Not including your a/c loads I bet you could get by with a 10kWh system, but batteries are a PIA, another thing to worry about....and you gotta keep them warm in the winter.
Yah I know they may not make it. Nothing is guaranteed. The thing that made. Me go ahead. Was that they had Sandy Munro. Help them with Planning and design. And then he invested in the company. Something he said he never does. They have 4 functional prototypes. And have said the production ready prototype will be out in 3 or 4 weeks. Plus they already have contracts with very large suppliers. I know nothing is guaranteed in this day and age. I have to have a backup battery system. To even Have my Solar come on in a power outage. Several days with snow. And 10k wouldn't cut it. Even just running necessities. Plus the utilities are trying to get rid of net metering. They have tried 2 times. Since I started my house. And the MREA. Midwest Renewable Energy Association. Has been successful in fighting them off so far. I will stay on the grid as long as they still have net metering.
The f150 lightning has 98k standard. And 131k extended range.
Ouch, I didn't know the Fords were so expensive....that's just stupid pricing.
How many hours do you need to run your house on batteries?
How about a smaller system for say 24-48 hours then a generator for backup? Perhaps natural gas?
Quote from: Pat Conlon on June 21, 2022, 08:40:03 AM
Ouch, I didn't know the Fords were so expensive....that's just stupid pricing.
How many hours do you need to run your house on batteries?
How about a smaller system for say 24-48 hours then a generator for backup? Perhaps natural gas?
Sorry Pat. That was the battery sizes. I should have put kwh. Pricing for the lightning is $40,000 for the absolute base model. Which you can't even get. To $95,000. For fully loaded extended range versions. That only have 280 mile range.
With the Aptera. You can look at it as getting a bigger battery than I would need. At a way better price than I could get a house battery. With a free self charging. Really kool and fast (0-60 3.5 seconds.) Electric car. For free. Or a really kool self charging, fast, 600 mile range electric car cheap. With a huge battery to run my house for free.
Dan,
I had a thought to check on a couple of times this winter to see how the heating system and the heated driveway performed.
Today, after watching the Daytona 500, I came across a home improvement show and they were pouring a driveway in the snowy weather.
That finally made me inquire.
Also, how the water filter performance? Have you seen constant improvement? Have you had to change out the filters yet?
Your project has always held my interest.
Randy - RPM
I haven't posted here in awhile. Thought I would start with pictures of the oak workbench/kitchen island I made.
Quote from: racerrad8 on February 19, 2023, 08:21:22 PM
Dan,
I had a thought to check on a couple of times this winter to see how the heating system and the heated driveway performed.
Today, after watching the Daytona 500, I came across a home improvement show and they were pouring a driveway in the snowy weather.
That finally made me inquire.
Also, how the water filter performance? Have you seen constant improvement? Have you had to change out the filters yet?
Your project has always held my interest.
Randy - RPM
Hey Randy thanks for the inquiry. I've been working for the world's largest printing company. For the last 37 years. I've never worked less than 2800hrs a year. Had a few over 3400hrs. Until last year. I had 3 1/2 months of only 36hr weeks...so I couldn't afford the panels again. This year they said that it could be 5-6 months of 36hr weeks. So I started a new job 2weeks ago. Hopefully I will be able to afford the solar panels this year. Last year I built the structure for the hydronic solar panels atleast.
Built each section on the ground. And had to lift them up and balance them on the pointy ends. And walk around to the underside while balancing them. And then lift them up by myself. Lol. I used the same steel roofing panels as I used on the house. They were 400% more expensive than when I built the house. Because of that. It cost me over $5,000 just for the structure. Even though I built it myself. I used leftover siding on the ends. The end by the meters is where the manifolds for the pex loops in the concrete are. And that is where the big buffer tank for the antifreeze and all the controls and pumps will be. It will be insulated. And a wall and door inside to keep the heat in. As much as possible. The rest will be storage. A wall and door on the other end. The doors have to be unusually small. Due to the angle. Looked into having them made. $1,400 apiece for Plain door. Found mobile home exterior doors that that will work still cost $800 for the 2 of them. Took 8 weeks to get them. And they only come white. Had to spray paint the one for the exterior satin black.
If you look closely at one of the pictures you can see the house numbers I made. They are 10" brushed aluminum. I cut 1/2" thick plexiglass to the shape of the numbers. Routered a channel down the center and stuffed LEDS in there. So the plexiglass backlights the numbers. If you look really closely. At the corner of the railing for the balcony by the downspout. You can see the solar panel. I made out of the little round panels from those yard lights. It takes 4 of them to charge the 3 aa rechargeable batteries per number. But I screwed up. The dusk to dawn. Circuit boards I used don't have low voltage disconnect. For when there isn't enough sun to fully charge the batteries. To keep them from fully discharging. Something to fix in the future.
Quote from: racerrad8 on February 19, 2023, 08:21:22 PM
Dan,
I had a thought to check on a couple of times this winter to see how the heating system and the heated driveway performed.
Today, after watching the Daytona 500, I came across a home improvement show and they were pouring a driveway in the snowy weather.
That finally made me inquire.
Also, how the water filter performance? Have you seen constant improvement? Have you had to change out the filters yet?
Your project has always held my interest.
Randy - RPM
Hey Randy. I forgot about the water filter/softener.
They ship you new cartridges every six months. If you sign up you get a discount. Can't remember 20%? I was trying to see if I could make it a year. But I've noticed calcium build up starting again. Looks like 8 months is my limit. Worked great. Pretty much eliminated the build up. I mostly got it. Because of calcium. And I hate the slimy feeling of showering in salt water.
Test
I was going to use hydronic/water solar panels for the driveway. But they cost $900-$2500 apiece. I would've needed 10 of them.
Last spring I bought 60 390watt panels for $112 apiece. And that included shipped to my garage. I'm going to use 24 of them DC direct to power 2 50gallon electric hot water heaters. I have to buy 4 solar powered pumps and some controls etc. I got 8 of the panels put up on the south facing lean-to before winter hit.
I sold 8 panels to my brother for what I paid. And I delivered them to him in Oklahoma. So he got free shipping too. Lol.
I'm going to instal 24 of them on my lower roof. That will bring my total solar to 19,200watts. Wisconsin allows 20,000watts residential. 20,001watts and you become a utility. Then you have to meet way more regulations.
I'm going to go a couple of years with the grid for backup. Just to make sure. And then go off grid.
I just purchased 6 wall mount batteries 85.8kwh. As efficient as my house is. I should, if I watch my loads. Be able to go almost a month even without any solar. I have an Onan 6,800watt generator. That I took out of my motorhome before I gave it to my friend for helping me once in awhile wth the house. I will convert it to propane. Just incase something weird happens. Will be burying a tank. As large as I can afford.
I did just purchase a kubota z780i 60 inch Comercial zero turn mower. With 1200hrs on it.
Should take about 15 minutes to mow my lawn. They can mow at 11.3 mph. At that rate I should be able to get another 175 years or so out of it. Lol.
If you can't tell I hate mowing the lawn as much as shoveling snow.
Now that I finally figured out how to post pictures. Here's one of my lawnmower
Very nice! A good zero turn is a fun way to spend the day -
Once you figure them out
Quote from: FJ1200W on March 28, 2025, 04:17:16 PMVery nice! A good zero turn is a fun way to spend the day -
Once you figure them out
Lol spend 15 minutes. Lol
Probably take longer to get it outta the shed. Than mowing the lawn.
Quote from: giantkiller on March 28, 2025, 05:31:46 PMQuote from: FJ1200W on March 28, 2025, 04:17:16 PMVery nice! A good zero turn is a fun way to spend the day -
Once you figure them out
Lol spend 15 minutes. Lol
Probably take longer to get it outta the shed. Than mowing the lawn.
While working for a busy dealership along interstate 70 in Columbia, Missouri, they took on the Spartan line of zero turn mowers.
I was totally green to them, but thought I had it figured out.
Out in the front of the store, I was mowing, and came upon some obstacle, the front end lifted up to what felt like 12 o'clock, I pulled back on the bars, it slammed down, pushing the bar forward, repeating this process as I rode that bucking bronco within 100 feet of the busy highway.
Oh what a show those folk had that day -
I saw my life pass before my eyes, but before I realized it, I hit that kill button -
And looked around to make sure none of the dealership staff saw -
Told my daughter it is hers. Since I spent some of her inheritance on it.
I was loading it up in my enclosed trailer at the dealership. I thought I was doing really good Since I had never driven one
All of a sudden it's doing a wheelie. I thought maybe I hooked a blade on the threshold of the trailer. Nope forgot to put the rops down. Hooked it on the roof of the trailer. Lol