Set floats, put carbs back on. Got airbox in place.
Start it up.
Gas leaks again.
Guess the floats are still a bit high. Now I have to take it all apart again.
:Facepalm:
I really, really, really, hate floats.
:dash1:
If you are one of the patient people :dash2: that still uses an airbox, why not start your bike before you fit that piece of shit airbox. Might save a lot of swearing.
That's a brilliant idea Pete.
But how am I to become a Master of Zen if I can't practice on refitting my Airbox ?
Went through this exact thing recently. Float level could be out ( check first using the clear tube fuel level method to be sure), or the needle valve seat is not seating properly like mine were. He's a bit of a write up of my fun times on the Aussie FB page https://www.facebook.com/groups/2331723123/permalink/10155024412278124/ (https://www.facebook.com/groups/2331723123/permalink/10155024412278124/)
Quote from: oldktmdude on June 26, 2017, 06:47:43 PM
If you are one of the patient people :dash2: that still uses an airbox, why not start your bike before you fit that piece of shit airbox. Might save a lot of swearing.
I did.
It ran fine.
However, it dribbled a bit before running fine. I think the difference is that I didn't start it up right away, so it overfilled instead of sucking excess into the intake. Which would also explain why I needed to open butterflies a bit to have it run - to add enough air to compensate for too much gas.
The airbox isn't really that big a deal to me. FJ is seriously one of the easier bikes in this regard. Try doing it on a solid backbone bike like an XJ, for comparison. And I really don't consider more intake noise to be much of an advantage. I hate the process of removing carbs and fiddling with floats a lot more. If you got some magic trick that will take away that necessity, I'm all ears.
JPaganel.............
I'm familiar with my USA 1984 FJ1100.........less familiar with other "flavors" of FJ........but I think what I'm gonna say applies to other FJ's besides mine.
Setting _FLOAT_ level measurement can make you crazy, cuz it may not get you to where you want to get! This especially true of old FJ's. Let's assume your FJ has "old floats". If so, they probably vary from one to the other in the degree of bouyancy that they have.
Also, there's a good chance that at the float pivot point, that there is a variation in the amount of friction from one carb to another.
Remember, the bottom line you seek here is the FUEL level in the bowl. The bottom line is _NOT_ some physical distance measurement of the floats. If everything is/was perfect, then setting FLOAT level will indeed get you close to correct desired FUEL level. But on an old bike, there can be many reasons that all is not perfect. I named only 2 reasons, but I'll bet there's a whole shoppimg list of reasons.
Cut to the chase........set the FUEL LEVEL in a direct fashion by actually measuring the FUEL level. Do like the manual sez.
I have the GYSM, plus the Haynes. I also looked at AVIATIONFRED'S FJ manual while we were in Ouray at the FJ Rally. All 3 of those manuals address the procedure of directly setting FUEL level. The Haynes manual seems to explain it best, but all 3 manuals had illustrations.
No , the Genuine Yamaha Fuel Gauge Level (YM-01312) is not required. All ya need is a piece of transparent flexible vinyl hose.
The FUEL LEVEL can be checked without removing the carb bank. However, _adjusting_ the level will require removing the carb bank, unless you are adept at removing the float bowls with carbs ON bike!!
Anyway.....This info may or may not help you, but a quick check will indicate whether or not the FUEL level is correct. Then go from there.
On my FJ, I dicked with fuel level a lot........for a couple of different reasons. My findings may not apply to any other FJ on this planet, but I found better throttle response and better miles per gallon when I set my fuel level 1 MM lower than what Yamaha tolerance specified. GYSM sez 3MM plus or minus 1 mm. MY final and happy setting was 5MM. (For this paragraph to make much sense, ya need to see the illustration in the manuals)
FJLee...Lee Carkenord....Denver CO....1984 FJ1100....2016 Suzuki 1255 Bandit
100% agree, actual fuel level should be the final check when assembling carbs after doing the preliminary float measurement. I always make my level in line with the washer on the float bowl, and this works well (for me).
Quote from: FjLee on June 28, 2017, 06:04:56 PM
FJLee...2016 Suzuki 1255 Bandit
Howya likin' that Bandit? Nice, huh?
F those floats!
Quote from: X-Ray on June 29, 2017, 03:09:43 AM
100% agree......
We can see that from your avatar....
Quote from: FjLee on June 28, 2017, 06:04:56 PM
Remember, the bottom line you seek here is the FUEL level in the bowl. The bottom line is _NOT_ some physical distance measurement of the floats. If everything is/was perfect, then setting FLOAT level will indeed get you close to correct desired FUEL level. But on an old bike, there can be many reasons that all is not perfect. I named only 2 reasons, but I'll bet there's a whole shoppimg list of reasons.
You are right, and I know it.
Quote from: FjLee on June 28, 2017, 06:04:56 PM
The FUEL LEVEL can be checked without removing the carb bank. However, _adjusting_ the level will require removing the carb bank, unless you are adept at removing the float bowls with carbs ON bike!!
Anyway.....This info may or may not help you, but a quick check will indicate whether or not the FUEL level is correct. Then go from there.
That's the part I really hate. The whole thing where you measure/drain/adjust/fill/measure/drain/adjust/lather/rinse/repeat/ :dash2:
That's the part I really hate. The whole thing where you measure/drain/adjust/fill/measure/drain/adjust/lather/rinse/repeat/
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
It can be a hassle, yes. However, I have found on my FJ that once FUEL level is set directly, using the hose in the correct manner, that the fuel level doesn't much change over the miles and years.
Please be aware that getting the FUEL level set correctly may not solve the problems that you're currently having. However, having the FUEL level set correctly should be part of normal maintenance the same as clean air filter, tire pressure, and periodic oil changes, etc.
Here's some more bits of info that I have in my maint. log that may help:
The Haynes manual sez if _checking_ the FUEL level with the carbs ON the bike, "with bike on centerstand, use a floor jack under the engine and raise it just enough so carbs are vertical."
An exact quote. That's simple enough, and I do that for _CHECKING_ the Fuel level. A note here...I pop the fuel filler cap "open" during FUEL level check, and I have the engine running at idle. Sometimes, it seems like the observed FUEL level in the hose is erratic and unsettled. Tap the carb and wiggle/shake the hose.
Don't be tempted to blow into the test hose to "settle down" the reading. That'll introduce some kinda confused reading. I already tried it!
For adjusting the FUEL level, I get the carbs/carb bank "vertical" at the bench, using a vise and a spirit level plus eyeball to "get the carbs vertical". I use an auxiliary gas tank, hanging above the carbs so the fuel level in the aux. tank is abt. equal to what it would be with the FJ tank.
With the carb bank in a vise, it's not a real big mechanical deal to pop off the float bowls and set the float tabs so the FUEL level in your vinyl hose is where you want it.
FJLee...Denver,CO.....1984 Yamaha FJ1100....2016 Suzuki 76.6 cubic inch Bandit
This is all excellent info (Thank you Lee)!
It is something that I've had in my mind to check and adjust the next time I had to get into the carbs (which happens to be Now).
One thing that I'm going to have to experiment with, is exactly HOW to take this measurement?
With the procedures that you have described, this would work perfectly for a gravity-fed FJ. With mine being a fuel-pump model, I'm going to have to introduce the output pressure of the pump into the mix as I attempt to get fuel level set properly.............................. :mail1:
Re: Carbs vertical for fuel level reading: As DavidR pointed out several times, if you place the measuring tube on the edge of the middle of the float bowl the reading should be the same. If you are reading the tube off the front of the bowl, then yes, the carbs should be vertical.
Alan, you could always run a long fuel hose from your FJ fuel pump to the carb rack on your bench.
I've often wondered on FJ's with the back end raised, how that tilt affects the fuel level and the pick up of fuel within the bowl.
For example: With the back end raised, the fuel level is now higher in the front (forward) section of the fuel bowl. I have heard that this can block a vent in the fuel bowl area which can lead to a siphoning action of fuel and fuel leaking out the choke vent hoses.
Lee, this is what I mentioned to you in Ouray last year.
Drilling a 1mm relief vent higher in the bowl (above the fuel level) prevents this siphoning action. Here is the discussion:
Quote from: dogwatch on July 10, 2012, 03:20:54 PM
Having tried all the usual tricks/adjustments/replacements, and a few more besides, to stop the carb fuel gusher I figgured out the cause was syphoning through the choke vent pipe. Once the OEM carbs get to 40 odd thousand miles the wear in the choke assembly can set up a fuel lock in the choke fuel pick-up tube when the motor is on over-run - ie when there is a vacuum in the inlet tract - and this then creates the syphon which drains the float bowl. (So the gusher only occurs after you have run the bike on the road).
The simple fix is to drill a 1.0mm hole in the vent pipe casting within the float bowl chamber. This breaks the syphon and prevents the gusher from starting. The location of the hole ensures it is well above normal fuel level in the float bowl.
This is a breeze to do and costs nothing assuming basic mechanical skills.
I have attached 3 photos:
1st shows the underside of the carb body with float bowl and float removed. "A" is the dip tube for the choke assembly fuel pick-up. "B" is the choke vent pipe stub.
2nd shows a 1.0mm drill bit showing the location of the hole and angle of drill.
3rd shows the hole when finished.
This is done for all 4 carbs.
This mod does not adversely affect performance (both sides of the hole are normally open to atmosphere in any event) but during a test run of 1500 miles last week (Stornoway and back) the bike ran without a hitch and carbs were dry as a bone - no leaks. (Compared to months of leaks/gushers over the years/months before I did the mod).
Usual T & Cs apply - I'll accept no responsibility if you do this to your carbs and stuff up etc etc - if you don't know what you are doing - ask an adult to help.....
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/3/2583_10_07_12_1_48_50.jpeg)
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/3/2583_10_07_12_1_50_05.jpeg)
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/3/2583_10_07_12_1_51_41.jpeg)
Additional discussion: http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=7056.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=7056.0)
I also need to do my carbs,but with all the problems one can get,I will rather send it to someone that knows what to do. Never done something like this on motorcycles. Machinical stuff not a problem,but think carbs is above my knowledge.
Hannes
Recently ran into a float related problem on a vintage roadracing bike using Mikuni smoothbore 29's. Long story short placing the floats in a small pail of fuel revealed that the floats had different buoyancy......much different. The cure was new floats. There wasn't so much of the gushing just an inability to get the tune correct. Who knows exactly what long term exposure to ethanol is doing?
I learned the hard way that the first thing you need to do is make sure the halves of the float are level with each other.
Quote from: Firehawk068 on June 29, 2017, 11:32:44 AM
This is all excellent info (Thank you Lee)!
It is something that I've had in my mind to check and adjust the next time I had to get into the carbs (which happens to be Now).
One thing that I'm going to have to experiment with, is exactly HOW to take this measurement?
With the procedures that you have described, this would work perfectly for a gravity-fed FJ. With mine being a fuel-pump model, I'm going to have to introduce the output pressure of the pump into the mix as I attempt to get fuel level set properly.............................. :mail1:
Hi Alan.........
I would think that for "checking" the fuel level, the pump wouldn't make any difference. As far as "adjusting" the fuel level in 1 or more carbs of a pump-equipped FJ, I've wondered a bit abt. that myself. My Haynes manual covers the 1200's thru 1993, and it doesn't differentiate tween the two systems as far as instructions go, except for the actual stating of the fuel level. For the 1200's, it sez "2.5 to 3.5 MM" Iffen a pump equipped model was mine, I'd probably set the fuel level at 2.0MM. But I've never done a hands-on fuel level check/adjust on a pump equipped model, so be careful abt. listening to me.
FJLee...Denver CO...1984 FJ1100...2016 Suzuki 1255 Bandit
Quote from: aj52 on June 29, 2017, 02:11:47 PM
I will rather send it to someone that knows what to do.
Send to RPM... done deal!
Frank
Quote from: ribbert on June 29, 2017, 08:35:19 AM
We can see that from your avatar....
Yeah, thanks Photobucket for that. They have decided that if you use their site to store photos and you want to link the images to forums etc ( like here), they want $399.00 per year to do that. Stuff that, off to find another host and will then have to try to relink images etc, :(
Quote from: X-Ray on June 29, 2017, 09:20:16 PM
Quote from: ribbert on June 29, 2017, 08:35:19 AM
We can see that from your avatar....
Yeah, thanks Photobucket for that. They have decided that if you use their site to store photos and you want to link the images to forums etc ( like here), they want $399.00 per year to do that. Stuff that, off to find another host and will then have to try to relink images etc, :(
At this forum you don't need a third party image hosting. Update the photos to this forums gallery and just link them where you want.
As for floats, I don't have the solution, but I can relate to the problems. After changing the needles and seats two years ago, I couldn't get the bike to run properly wit misfiring when opening the throttle. I fiddled with floats a lot and nothing until I took the bike to a bike doctor. :smile: It ended up to be one of the intake boots vacuum leak, which I didn't detect with methods from this forum. He fixed that, set the floats (a bit rich I'd say, but what do I know) and :hi: .
I am really surprised that no one mentioned the O-rings on the float valve seat. In my experience, when Mikuni's dribble fuel out of the overflow, the first thing to check is the float bowl measurement. On these BS36's should be set at 23mm. If they leak then the next thing is to replace those O-rings. If they aren't leaking now they will. A combination of heat, from a heat gun, and plenty of carb cleaner will help pulling those seats out. Add plus is that you can check the little screens at the input of the float seat. This assumes that the needles are clean and making a tight seal on the seat itself.
Actually when you pull the float bowls, unless you've replaced those O-rings, that should be your first priority. As I said. If they aren't leaking now they will.
Quote from: jdvorchak on July 01, 2017, 09:05:27 AM
I am really surprised that no one mentioned the O-rings on the float valve seat.
Been there, done that, still have a bag of o-rings on my workbench. :)
Quote from: JPaganel on July 01, 2017, 12:08:10 PM
Quote from: jdvorchak on July 01, 2017, 09:05:27 AM
I am really surprised that no one mentioned the O-rings on the float valve seat.
Been there, done that, still have a bag of o-rings on my workbench. :)
Do yourself a favor and throw them away. I was teaching my youngest son how I rebuild carbs. Since I hate removing and re-installing the O-rings on the fuel and vent Tee's I had him do it. I turned my back for a minute and saw the number of new O-rings had increased. I asked which are the new ones and which are old? It took us a few minutes and a magnifying glass to figure it out. From then on I had him throw the old ones away while he still had them in his hand from removal. :Facepalm:
Quote from: jdvorchak on July 05, 2017, 07:59:23 AM
Do yourself a favor and throw them away. I was teaching my youngest son how I rebuild carbs. Since I hate removing and re-installing the O-rings on the fuel and vent Tee's I had him do it. I turned my back for a minute and saw the number of new O-rings had increased. I asked which are the new ones and which are old? It took us a few minutes and a magnifying glass to figure it out. From then on I had him throw the old ones away while he still had them in his hand from removal. :Facepalm:
I toss the old ones right away. This is a bag of leftover new ones. :biggrin:
Just to be sure, what is the reference point for the level when using a clear tube?
In the Haynes manual, it is indicated "The level should be 2.0-4.0mm above the line on the carbutetor float bowl" I can't see no line on the float bowl. Is it the bowl edge?
Just started checking the fuel levels on my '94 carbs yet again. The book calls for 3mm +- 1mm from the carb base. I set the measurement at these points. usually just in line with the bowl washer and call it a day. Runs well like this.
That is a really clever setup.
Joe
Thanks Joe. From memory I copied this idea from a Kawasaki forum, it works well. Just put some pieces of wood under whichever end if you want to set angles etc for carbs mounted on bikes etc ( I usually just leave it level), and away you go. :good2:
Thanks for the info X-Ray! And in did, very nice setup! I did mine with a 2x4. Not looking as good as your's, but it do the job!
Before I will check the level with clear tubes, I want to do a first check with the level of the floats with a gauge. But I was looking at the floats and I wonder where I must take the measure.
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/IMG_1436.JPG)
The lower part of the float is at the #2 place on the picture but is it really where the level should be measure or at the #1 place?
Also I bought carburetors rebuild kit like the one RPM website. I bought localy because they was available with one day free shipping. They are exactly like this one:
(https://www.rpmracingca.com/prodimages/large/Carb%20rebuildkit1-1.jpg)
Everything is good exept the pilot jets that I ordered at RPM with other stuff. But this main jet needle is shorter than the one I have in those BS36. Do I need to keep my Mikuni needle or use the one in the kit?
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/IMG_1437.JPG)
Hello Stou, make the measurement along the flat section of the float in #1, just make sure you have the carbs at around about a 45 degree angle so the floats so not have full weight pressing down on the needle valve. I think also using a different length main jet needle in your photo would cause all sorts of issues, Id stick with the standard one.
Quote from: stou on January 24, 2020, 01:34:32 PM
Also I bought carburetors rebuild kit *like the one RPM website* I bought localy because they was available with one day free shipping. They are exactly like this one.....
......But this main jet needle is shorter than the one I have in those BS36. Do I need to keep my Mikuni needle or use the one in the kit?
Well, it appears that the aftermarket kit you bought is not *exactly like* the RPM kit.
The needle height difference between the kit and oem is significant.
That aftermarket needle looks to me to be waaaay too short.
I'll defer to the experts
I know what is the problem with the kit. Like Robert wrote in my writeup thread, the carburetor I use are from late FJ1100 & FJ1200. I made a mistake and ordered kits for '84 FJ1100. So I will not use the needles from the kit. The main reason I ordered the kit is for the needles and seats, the #112.5 jets and gaskets. I was cheaper to order kits thans separate parts.
I made a PVC rack like the one of X-Ray, very useful!
New jet kit and new needles and seat installed.
I installed the carburetors on the rack and made them at level. I did the tedious task for each carb of "check level/take notes/drain carb/remove the floats/adjust the floats/install the floats/fill carbs" and restart the procedure many times to finaly get the level at +- 3mm of the edge of the carbs body.
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/IMG_1464.JPG)
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/IMG_1474.JPG)
I installed the carbs back on the bike, get the bike outside... brrrrrr -5°C and installed the auxiliary tank. I started the bike with the choke and it was running not too bad, considering the carbs are not synchronized. But they started to leak from the bigs tubes and a little bit from the overflow tubes.
I noticed that once installed, the carbs are not at level on the bike. I used the level of the iphone and there at 6° angle down to the front. Can it be the cause of the overflow?
Also, I did a search on the forum but I didn't found exactly what are the 2 bigs tubes that are comming from between a pair of carbs?
Yes, there is an angle to the carbs, as you discovered. This 6* angle is increased even further if or when you raise the rear end for better handling.
The 2 big tubes are your float bowl vents, necessary to keep your internal fuel bowl at ambient atmospheric pressure.
Try setting your float heights at or 1mm above the maximum value. (i.e. make the floats as low as possible in the bowls) Don't measure the fuel level at the back of the bowl but at the middle of the bowl (on the side) with the understanding that the 6* carb angle (or higher) the fuel level will be higher at the front of the bowls (engine side) than at the back of the bowls.
That spec should NEVER be +3mm. The fuel level must be -3mm or more BELOW the float bowl gasket surface.
Do an extreme adjustment like -6mm and see if you still have problems.
My original carbs started seeping out of the small (choke circuit air intake) hoses and I never figured out why. I jacked with them for weeks and replaced parts and it continued to seep. I finally swapped to a new set of carbs and the problem went away. Make sure your carbs are in good shape before you waste more time.
You can make this measurement when the carbs are installed if you place the tube in the middle of the side of the float bowl. The fuel level will pivot at that point.
Thanks Pat! :good2:
Next Wednesday I'm going south for 2 weeks for a little bit of sun and warm weather. So the project will be put asside a little bit :yes:
You're welcome stou :hi:
David, didn't you try drilling a secondary vent like this?
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=7056.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=7056.0)
Shortly after Pete's above post, ~around the fall of 2012, I recall one of our old timers (I thought it was you) tried this trick and reported that it worked.
Our theory was that, with the back end raised, the fuel level was now higher in the front side of the fuel bowls and now covered the dip tube vent hole located on the front side of the fuel bowl. This secondary 1mm vent hole was now located well above the fuel line and thus, provided an air break which interrupted the siphon of fuel from the bowl.
Off to the catacombs I go searching.....tell Jannie I won't be home for dinner....
Yes good pickup. Hopefully no one ever measures 3mm ABOVE the gasket line, would be a fair amount of fuel flowing out those overflow tubes, :bye2:
Quote from: X-Ray on January 29, 2020, 09:04:16 PM
Yes good pickup. Hopefully no one ever measures 3mm ABOVE the gasket line, would be a fair amount of fuel flowing out those overflow tubes, :bye2:
Mine seem happy to be at this level
(http://[url=http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=17021.0;attach=14467%5Dhttp://www.fjowners.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=17021.0;attach=14467%5B/url%5D)
But I really need to fit new petcock, when I switch mine to prime, it leaks from the tap I believe.
Is this level is when the carbs are on the bike?
Quote from: stou on January 30, 2020, 02:53:56 PM
Is this level is when the carbs are on the bike?
That level on mine was carbs off and level on a bench.
Kind of weird because mine was very good on level on the bench, but when I installed them on the bike, they leaked a lot.
Quote from: stou on January 29, 2020, 03:17:39 PM
I noticed that once installed, the carbs are not at level on the bike. I used the level of the iphone and there at 6° angle down to the front. Can it be the cause of the overflow?
Also, I did a search on the forum but I didn't found exactly what are the 2 bigs tubes that are comming from between a pair of carbs?
These 2 big tubes, did you break the carby rack at all to replace those o rings?
You actually only need to remove the outside 2, but necessary, mine leaked when touched.
They are the overflow pipes I believe.
No I didn't replace those o'rings. But it was leaking through the tube, not by the plastic connector. Everything was nice and dry when I checked the level on the bench.
Do the o rings now while you're there!
You only need to take outside ones off, middle 2 can stay on bracket.
It can only leak through the tube if fuel level inside keeps rising, which means float needle is not seating or it is set too high/low, which it isn't because you checked it and it was below with the clear tube.
Quote from: stou on January 30, 2020, 09:21:52 PM
No I didn't replace those o'rings. But it was leaking through the tube, not by the plastic connector. Everything was nice and dry when I checked the level on the bench.
Mine were fine until I moved those tubes, sitting on bench they were dry too..
Do it, replace those o rings, it'll be 1 more thing off the list of possibilities :flag_of_truce:
Before you fly south for the winter, you can have some of our warmth if you want, it's going to be early 40's on the weekend
(C not F)
Yes I'll replace those o'rings. Like you wrote, it's better to do it while I'm there. The only reason I can see for the leaking is the level is probably at the higher limit on the bench. When I installed them on the bike, with the 6° angle and probably not on level on the driveway, that make them leak.
Sparky84, here this morning, it's -15°. A bit of warmth will be welcome next week!
they state in the manual to jack up bike so that carbs are vertical (level) then check fuel level.
You've done that on the bench to the required height, so when they go on the bike and are at an angle, they shouldn't leak..
-15 sounds nice
for a day :morning1:
I'll recheck everything again at level and at 6° to see how it react on the bench. When I did it at level last week, there was no leaking at all on the bench. Maybe it was more at +3mm and when at 6°, they leak. We'll see!
Thanks for the picture. I only have a pdf copy of the Haynes manual.
This original manual also says to measure the level with engine running.
Others will have more knowledge about the importance of this step. I played and played with floats once and couldn't get them sorted so my credentials are useless. :sarcastic:
Yesterday I did the floats adjustment once more. I did it at level and then checked at 6° to see how it look like. The level is lower at 6°. When I verified them again today, #1 and #3 was ok, #2 a little bit high and curiously, the #4 was very high. I readjusted #2 and then start to work on #4. On 1, 2 and 3, the tongue hight of the float was between 2.20 and 2.40mm high. The #4 was at 2.45 from the last adjustment, but leaking. I started to rise it and after many time it was looking
My setup
(http://www.stoudesign.com/temp/Carb1.jpg)
At level
(http://www.stoudesign.com/temp/Carb2.jpg)
Carb #1 and #4 at level on the bench
(http://www.stoudesign.com/temp/Carb3.jpg)
(http://www.stoudesign.com/temp/Carb4.jpg)
Today I installed the carbs on the bike and get it out to start it. The bike was running not too bad but the #4 started to leak again... WHAT!!!
I checked the level on the bike. #1,2 and 3 was a little bit lower due to the 6° angle. But the #4 was high as hell! :mad: :diablo:
The only reason I can see, is there's a problem with the needle. They are all brand new, but there's something bad with the needle or the seat and it doesn't stop fuel to enter in the carb.
|1, 2 and 3 are like that on the bike
(http://www.stoudesign.com/temp/Carb5.jpg)
But #4 :shok:
(http://www.stoudesign.com/temp/Carb8.jpg)
Here's a small video of the bike running: https://vimeo.com/388836618 (https://vimeo.com/388836618)
Once again I'll remove the carbs and have a look at the #4 :unknown:
Oh bugger. so they are all new needles/seats from the kit obviously. One thing I do when I have the carbs apart is also polish the float pins with scotchbrite and wd40, just to make sure the floats are nice and free moving. This is a strange one. Maybe remove the #4 needle and seat and just bench test those components, put the needle in the seat and drop some fuel into it with very light pressure on the needle and see if it leaks.
Does the float...float?
Do you have the right needle and seat?
Gravity fed or
Fuel pump type..
And would this pose a problem?
Yesterday afternoon I attacked the #4! I removed the needle and seat to make sure the o'ring was ok. It was ok but I found a bit of dirt inside the seat, maybe something in my new auxiliary tank. So I cleaned it carefuly, I installed a fuel filter on the line from the auxiliary tank. I tested the needle and seat alone, and it work fine. I also used another float to be sure the float is not the problem. I did a first bench test and it leaked. I lifted the tab a little bit more and did some test a few times. It finaly work fine when the tab was at 3.25mm. It's stange compared to the other carbs which are lower. Maybe the seat of this one is borred deeper than the other.
This morning I took the bike outside and tested it. No leak!!! :dance2:
I will wait spring to do the carb sync, I don't want to do it now, it's too cold outside. Since the garage is in the house basement, I avoid to have the bike running in the garage. So now that the carburetor issues are fixed, I'll be back to my "project thread" !
Thanks for your help and comments guys!
Just don't let any crappy gas sit in the carbs.