Hello all. I posted some of this early info in the introductions board, but since I'm going to be running through quite a few improvements I thought I should move it over here and document this properly.
I bought an 84 FJ1100 from a friend last September. It had been sitting in his garage for 7 years, ridden there and parked on the centre stand with a full tank of fuel on the day he took delivery of his ZZR-1100. I have basic mechanical skills and some experience working on bikes from my youth, but am quite time poor (6 kids, 50 acre farm, working 5 days in the city) so luckily I have another friend who is gifted in all things mechanical and loves motorbikes. He was willing to let me trailer the FJ to his shed where it spent the next couple of months. Slowly coming back from her Rip Van Winkle session.
The carbs needed a complete strip down and thorough clean. There are some small cracks in a couple of the inlet manifold rubbers, but he's coated them with silicone for now. Brake master cylinder, clutch master and slave all needed a clean up and rebuild kits put through. The top front brake hose was clogged with junk, which has been flushed and cleared with wire, but down the track I'll be fitting a new set of braided stainless lines.
One fork seal was leaking, so the front end was dismantled and completely rebuilt. A few of the damping shims were missing (should be 3 on each leg, one had 1 and the other had 2) plus the bottom damping slides had been put back UPSIDE DOWN by the last guy. At least it has progressive springs. My friend has balanced the anti dive systems too, so the front should be OK for now. Headstem roller bearings packed with new marine grease. New front wheel bearings fitted. Front discs and calipers are OK.
The rear suspension has a fair bit of play. On the centrestand, you can lift the back wheel an inch before the spring starts to load! It seems all the bushes and bolts for the rear linkage are extremely expensive, so this is going to have to wait for a little while. The rear disc is down to 4mm thick and looks to have been getting extremely hot with my friend's regular two up riding. So that can't wait. I'll need to buy a good one from someone very soon. It probably makes sense to tackle the back end stuff like swingarm bushes, chain and sprockets, linkage bushes all together if my wallet can handle that.
Once the rebuilt carbs were fitted, new plugs, filter and oil changed, we fitted a battery and cranked her up. After a bit of fiddling around she started and ran OK. Blowing a fair bit of white smoke though. The guy I bought it from assures me it wasn't using oil or blowing smoke when he was running her regularly, so I'm hoping there's a bit of junk in there that just needs a good run up to temperature with some load to clean out. If not, I guess I'll live with using some oil for a while.
I registered her and have taken her for a few trips into Adelaide to work. I think a bit of expert carby balancing and valve clearance adjustment is going to improve things. It's quite rough under acceleration especially above 5000rpm and tricky or impossible to start from cold. I think the coils and HT leads are probably way past their used by date. Anyone running a more modern ignition system? I live near Tri-power, who make an electronic ignition system for 4 cylinder bikes now. Wondering if this will make starting and running smoother? It does seem to start first prod in hot weather, so perhaps the enrichment circuit is still gunked up with old fuel.
Also, the headlight and taillight don't work, the speedo screams sometimes even after I sprayed some chain lube into the cable socket, and the rear disc rotor is way under thickness. But it's a start.
A couple of pics from the day I took delivery and trailered it to my mate's workshop.
Day one
Fork and hydraulics rebuild
I've had her registered and at home on the farm for about a month now. The biggest issues are the carbs, the headlight not working at all, and the smokey motor. Here's a few pics of the old girl enjoying some Adelaide Hills sun after so many years neglected under a blanket in the corner of a shed. My daughters certainly appreciate having a new toy to climb on.
I decided to look for a good set of second hand carbs for the FJ1100, after reading horror stories about people spending heaps of money trying to resurrect carbs that have been marinating in old fuel for years. Apparently even ultrasonic cleaning can sometimes fail to do the job right.
I found someone selling a set of FJ1100 carbs in Perth, but then I noticed a running FJ1100 was for sale only an hour's drive away from the farm. Perhaps this might be a more cost effective way of getting at least one running bike. I went to inspect this second FJ1100 and wouldn't you know, it has a spare set of carbs that were running pretty smoothly on the bike less than a year ago. They were replaced with another good rebuilt set because one of the adjustment screw threads has been stripped by a heavy handed owner in the past and the current owner felt it wasn't running perfectly.
I took this FJ1100 for a ride and it was much smoother than mine. It had started perfectly on full choke from cold, moving to a steady idle in a few minutes. No smoke, no jumping out of second gear, no graunchy or slipping clutch. The brakes are spongey, but with the original rubber brake hoses I'm not surprised. The forks are also soft, and the alloy finishes have some corrosion from the bike having spent a lot of time near the coast. But the plastics are not bad, the chin spoiler is still there, and it has a fairly new looking 4 into 1. We did a deal, and I'm collecting her tomorrow afternoon. So, having gone looking for good carbs for my FJ1100 I've got a whole second going concern, with the spare carbs included.
I'm really hoping these carbs will be easy to fix and change over onto my original FJ1100, to get that running nicely too. I think I'll put my rebuilt forks onto the new 1100 since that doesn't blow any smoke and seems generally to be in a bit better nick than my first one. I'm starting to really get into these classy old bikes. I have to say, I was pleasantly surprised by the power a 30 year old air cooled, heavy machine can muster up. I mean, it's nothing like the ZZR-1100 I used to own, but it would leave the Bandit 1250S for dead.
Here's a couple of pics of the second bike on the day I inspected her:
Well now you have two. :good2:
On the one that smokes , most FJ,s will clear up after some spirited riding where you get the load on the engine on acceleration past 8k then let the engine slow the bike back down to 4k then repeat process for a few miles and your smoky days may be gone. If it smokes under acceleration its the rings, on deceleration that is valve seals or guides.
Smoking on startup is guides/seals , and goes away when warmed up.
Thanks Mark.
It doesn't smoke at all when first fired up and idling. It only shows up with revs. It will smoke in neutral on the centrestand, when you back off after free revving it to 4 or 5000. Also out on the road, but I can't be sure if it's while under load of after throttling off, since I'm looking forwards...
Is that sounding more like valve guides/seals?
Sounds like rings need some time to seal up. Just ride it for a good run with lots of throttle on and throttle off and get it up in the RPM above 8k . Do at least 50 to 100 miles at one time so the engine gets a good workout.
What color is the smoke?
Blue/grey is oil and black is fuel to rich.
White smoke is your exhaust is full of water and steam is being made from sitting so long ..just ride it as long as the smoke is not black.
The rich black smoke will wash the oil out of cylinders and cause it to start burning oil.
I hope that helps.
The smoke is definitely not black. I wouldn't think there'd be any water still in the exhaust after 3 rides totaling 250km, but the smoke is quite light grey. So I'll go with oil. I took some video footage of the smoke, but I'm not sure if I can upload video files.
Finally, some good news. I pulled the right sidecover off, and this second 84 has a fairly modern looking Ohlins remote reservoir adjustable shock on the back. On the centrestand, there's hardly any vertical play in the back wheel, maybe 7mm or so. My first 84 has around 20mm of play, so those linkage bushes and pins are all pretty worn.
When you get ready to replace the swingarm bushings, consider a retrofit using the needle bearings used in the '86-'87 FJs. The oem 84/85 bushings worked well when properly maintained ( greased) however, in wet weather climates or with forgetful owners, once those bushings get dry, they get damaged.
The 86/87 needle bearings are much more robust.
This second FJ1100 has a bit of an imprecise feeling gearshift action, and in short shifting medium throttle takeoffs from the traffic lights, has jumped out of second gear on me twice now. Because of the woolly feel through the shifter, I'm not sure I've clicked it into gear properly on both of those times. I've also changed into second near redline in first under full acceleration, using a firm pressure, fully opened the throttle and held the gear through to redline and it hasn't jumped out, so I'm hoping this is less a case of second gear wear and more about chain/sprocket adjustment. What do you guys think?
Sounds like that one has the 2nd gear issue real bad. My '86 needed a hard pull up to about 7K to start jumping out of gear.
If it holds under high 2nd gear RPM blasts it ain't dead yet. More likely your shift fork is starting to bend. You can install the shift detent kit from RPM and that will save you from having to split the cases for a while longer. It allows a more positive shift so you don't go false neutral.
Actually, now that I've ridden for a few hundred kays, a bit of a look around the bike shows one possible contributor to the gear select problem. The clutch master cyl is weeping from the actuation rod seal behind the lever. Horrible rusty coloured junk that bears no resemblance to hydraulic fluid.
In addition to this, both fluid level inspection windows have been plugged with some kind of putty. Looks like i will be replacing the hydraulics next...
I doubt that the clutch has anything to do with the second gear problem as it is not even necessary to use it when changing up gears.
I think it's a combination of me riding with soft leather "business shoes", the gear lever being adjusted too high for my preference (a 30 second fix!), some selector fork wear and maybe the mushy clutch master.
Anyway, I need to rectify it now that I've noticed it leaking such horrible junk. I read the VFR800 master cylinder replacement thread in the files section, so that looks promising. I've found the following Chinese repro part deal:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Black-7-8-Clutch-Brake-Levers-Master-Cylinder-Reservoir-For-Honda-VFR800-02-12-/351446530062?hash=item51d3d8780e:g:6dYAAOSw3ydVkz8g (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Black-7-8-Clutch-Brake-Levers-Master-Cylinder-Reservoir-For-Honda-VFR800-02-12-/351446530062?hash=item51d3d8780e:g:6dYAAOSw3ydVkz8g)
Anyone have a set like these? They look a bit more modern than the pair Fred is using on his 89.
That set of master cyls for the brake and clutch look very nice.
However, nowhere in the description do they tell you the bore size.
And there is no mention if the built-in switch is NO or NC.
I'd ask those questions before purchase.
And maybe if the levers can be purchased separately (in case of an "oopsie")
Arnie
They are supposed to be a direct replacement for VFR800 2002-2012, which uses 14mm bore. They also sell VFR800 1998-2001 which is a different bore size, and I think that's what Fred bought at the time.
People want $100 for a used genuine VFR800 clutch master cyl assembly, line and slave cyl assembly that have already done 35000miles, and would probably need kitting.
Good question about the levers.
Nathan
A shift detent kit from RPM made a huge difference to my second gear issue and the clutch used to slip the down shifting for spirited overtaking. much improved now. Took me about an hour to install. http://www.rpmracingca.com/products.asp?cat=39&filter=detent (http://www.rpmracingca.com/products.asp?cat=39&filter=detent)
Mark
It says 5/8" on the body of the clutch master cyl(in your earlier photos) and seals are available from any decent auto brake/clutch refurb
centre(about $5ea).
I recently rebuilt a SRX600 master cylinder this way and it works fine.
I had to have the groove in the piston of a rd400 master cyl widened to accept the seal but that's been working for about 15 years now!
I have remade the windows out of Perspex and found it easier to shape them on a linisher belt and then "glued" them in with auto black silicon.
There is no pressure in that area of the reservoir so it works well.
If you paint with black two pack paint it's happy with brake fluid and the jobs done.
Cheers Ian.
For now, I've gone with a genuine FJ1100 clutch master cylinder rebuild kit in the original cylinder. I'm just living with the dodgy looking (but sealed) plug where the level inspection window was. The clutch feels way more progressive now!
I've adjusted the gearshift level down a tiny bit, which feels better for me. Only one false neutral / second gear jumpout since then. If I'm positive on the shift into second, it holds in gear right to redline. Will look into the RPM shift detent kit, but shipping costs to Australia seem excessive generally.
I'm taking this FJ1100 (#1136) on a 1200km loop of Western Vic with some mates next weekend, so have been trying to sort out the big issues over the last few weeks.
Clutch master sorted, both clutch and brake lines completely flushed out, filled with new DOT4 and bled up nicely. New oil, filter. New tyres. I went with a Bridgestone BT45 on the front and a Bridgestone Exedra on the back, which is only H rated. Looks like I'm stuck to 210kph now guys. That's go straight to jail territory in Aust anyway, so somehow I think not having a V rated rear tyre shouldn't be too much of a Kookaloo Killer. This was all the bike shop had in stock for the 16" wheels. I got a great price, $285 fitted for the pair!
The bike really turns in beautifully now and feels 30kg lighter than it did with the old tyres, which had been worn down to the bars in the centre but had nearly all their tread on any kind of lean, so squared off badly.
Next job will be stripping down the front end to repack the headstem bearings and change the forks over with the rebuilt ones from #502. Looking at the original owner's handbook, all FJ1100s came from the factory with both progressive front springs AND 120x80 section front tyres, not 110. In Aus anyway. Let the controversy begin...
Moto Moto. The name so nice, ya gotta say it twice...
Just a pic of my little collection, sitting out in the Goat Shed. I can see potential.
A great price on the tyres!
I just paid $429 for a set of Avon Roadriders fitted to my fj1200.
Living away from the big cities means higher prices.
Good job on the restoration. Those bikes are lucky to have you as their owner. Kudos :good:
Be careful with second gear. Once it jumps out of gear, the damage is done. The shift fork is bent. If it keeps happening your gear engagement dogs will be damaged (rounded off)
Tread softly in second gear grasshopper. Short shift. Save your money. Once the bike jumps out of second gear the RPM shift detent kit will not solve the problem. Only new shifting forks will fix it (along with backcuting the dogs)
Quote from: nchattaway on January 08, 2016, 04:14:34 AM
.....Looking at the original owner's handbook, all FJ1100s came from the factory with both progressive front springs AND 120x80 section front tyres, not 110. In Aus anyway. Let the controversy begin...
Yes, all 1984 to 1987 FJ's came with the same front tire size: 120/80-16 No controversy there.
The controversy surrounds the later '88-95 FJ's that came with the front 17"dia. X 3" wide wheel and an oem 120/70-17 tire.
What to replace it with? 120 vs. 110?
Looking up various tire manufacturer's installation specifications for today's radial tires shows that they specify a 3.5" wide rim to fit a 120/70-17 tire. The smaller 110/70-17 size is specified for the narrow 3" wide FJ rim.
A 3" wide rim vs a 3.5" wide rim.....Does a rim 1/4" narrower on each side really pinch the tire? Really?
Thanks for the wise words Pat. Splitting the casings is a way bigger job than I had in mind for this stage of my ownership. My first FJ1100 has a comparatively sharper feeling shift and hasn't jumped out of second at all, but that's only in about 200km of riding. Perhaps that transmission would furnish a worthwhile gearshaft if and when I come to that expensive job. But I'd say getting the RPM shift forks would be a definite if I was to undertake a rebuild.
In the 3 times my bike has jumped out of second, it has been almost immediately after selecting second, in what I would call a false neutral situation. It used to happen a fair bit with the two ZZR-600s and the ZZR-1100 I used to own, and those bikes were quite new at the time. Kwakas aren't known for precise gearshifts, like say a Suzuki GSXR. When I shift up into second firmly, it has never jumped out. But I won't push my luck in second. There's plenty of thrust on offer in 3rd anyway.
Today, in prep for my trip in less than a week, I swapped the Gearsack rack from #502 onto #1136. The rear indicators on #1136 have been moved back and mounted under the rear license number plate to allow for the fitment of panniers, and I was worried they would foul the Gearsack topbag rack, but they clear it by a few mills. Phew! I changed over the alloy grab handle too, since a PO had tapped and threaded holes in one to fit a McGyvered Ventura top rack. Bit of a nasty job and very ugly. There are a lot of fiddly plastic cover panels around the tail section; lots to break! I wonder why the whole tail section wasn't designed as a two halves or a single section like most seem to be nowadays.
Anyone know how to fix drooping pillion pegs? Both of my bikes have drooping rear pegs. Looks like welding a washer inside the U shackle could do the trick?
Also, the front brake light switch is gone. Is this a tricky changeover? I had only 1 hour to play around and used it all up fitting the above stuff so didn't get to the switch. Any pointers to look out for?
Quote from: Pat Conlon on January 10, 2016, 12:44:32 AM
Quote from: nchattaway on January 08, 2016, 04:14:34 AM
.....Looking at the original owner's handbook, all FJ1100s came from the factory with ......... AND 120x80 section front tyres, not 110. In Aus anyway. Let the controversy begin...
Yes, all 1984 to 1987 FJ's came with the same front tire size: 120/80-16 No controversy there.
The controversy surrounds the later '88-95 FJ's that came with the front 17"dia. X 3" wide wheel and an oem 120/70-17 tire.
What to replace it with? 120 vs. 110?
Looking up various tire manufacturer's installation specifications for today's radial tires shows that they specify a 3.5" wide rim to fit a 120/70-17 tire. The smaller 110/70-17 size is specified for the narrow 3" wide FJ rim.
A 3" wide rim vs a 3.5" wide rim.....Does a rim 1/4" narrower on each side really pinch the tire? Really?
Installation guides are just that, guides, not gospel and one thing they probably don't take into account is that most modern bikes with a 3" rim are much smaller and lighter. Bikes the size and weight of the FJ now having wider rims.
The FJ came with a 120 from the factory. I have read here from time to time that it was a "small" 120 made just for the FJ, not so.
I posted my own experience with this just recently, and at length, and suggested it doesn't matter, but my personal preference is for the bigger tyre.
Or, as my tyre man put it when I asked him what he thought about it once, he gave me a funny look and said "why the fuck would you want to put one of those skinny little things on bike like that?"
Noel
I am pleased to report that I've just got back from three days on the road with FJ1100 #1136. It was our first tour together and nothing major went wrong. A big relief! The clutch master didn't leak at all, so the rebuild kit seems to have done the job. I did lose the bolt from the bracket that holds the slip on muffler to the pillion peg mount casting, but had 500 assorted cable ties with me so this took but seconds to jury rig.
In a trip of around 1400km, riding at 100 - 120kph with five mates on their bikes (mostly American style big twin cruisers and one cheeseburger cheese yellow BMW R1100) #1136 used 800ml of oil. I didn't think this was too bad for a 32 year old bike with 70,000km on the clock. I accelerated in 3rd gear past my mechanic friend on his Harley and then closed the throttle at 8000rpm so he could see what was going on and it's definitely valve stem seals, throwing out some blue grey smoke after bottling off. He said under hard acceleration there was a little bit of black smoke which means it's running a bit rich. Good to know.
I discussed pulling the motor down to fit Fred's old 1200 cylinder block and pistons, and reconditioning the head at the same time with my mates. Everyone thought it'd be a fun project and something I could easily tackle myself with the Clymer manual and my existing tools. What say you? With all of your help, can I safely embark on a rebuild? While it's apart would be a good time to break down the transmission and fit new shift forks as well, and look at the clutch. How much would I be looking at if I bought all the seals, gaskets, rings and bearings, plus a new cam chain and tensioner from RPM, shipped to Adelaide do you think?
I pulled the speedo cable off very early in the trip since it started howling like #502 also does! D'oh! But it was so much nicer not listening to that horrible noise all the time, so
I've decided I am now going to look for a basic digital GPS speedo to affix to the clear plastic screen over the old speedo. Something small, not like a car map GPS navigator. Anyone have any recommendations?
After 3 days in the saddle, I reckon it would be useful to have some front mount highway pegs, just to be able to stretch out the knees every now and again. What can you all suggest along those lines?
A pic of our pack of bikes parked in the main street of Casterton, Vic. Or was it Stawell? Help, you Victorians...
I've tried putting Highway pegs on my '91 in a couple of locations and found them horribly uncomfortable.
With engine protection bars, to mount them on, it might be better.
My problem was that I felt like a 1/2 opened jackknife, bent at the waist.
Getting 1" drop pegs and re-upholstering the seat worked much better for me.
For the GPS speedometer, I would suggest one of 2 options. No need to stick something over the OEM speedo. With these you can actually remove the Speedo unit and drop in the GPS speedo and retain all the rest of the instrument panel.
This is the GPS speedo that I have installed. Modification of the white housing is required.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/AndyTach-3-3-8-85mm-Digital-GPS-speedometer-gauge-odometer-and-compass-/262063984100?hash=item3d043b0de4:g:PLcAAOSwxYxUtSV~&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/AndyTach-3-3-8-85mm-Digital-GPS-speedometer-gauge-odometer-and-compass-/262063984100?hash=item3d043b0de4:g:PLcAAOSwxYxUtSV~&vxp=mtr)
Here is a link for the Atach speedo.
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=12391.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=12391.0)
This GPS speedo gives you much more information and allows for a remote reset cable to be placed in the OEM reset button. An added bonus is there is very little modification to the OEM plastic to make fit.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Speedhut-3-3-8-GPS-Speedometer-Gauge-200km-h-Metric-/351625414408?hash=item51de820708:g:I1QAAOSwoydWkVJQ&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Speedhut-3-3-8-GPS-Speedometer-Gauge-200km-h-Metric-/351625414408?hash=item51de820708:g:I1QAAOSwoydWkVJQ&vxp=mtr)
Here is a link for the Speedhut install
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=12192.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=12192.0)
Fred
Quote from: nchattaway on January 17, 2016, 02:57:26 AM
A pic of our pack of bikes parked in the main street of Casterton, Vic. Or was it Stawell? Help, you Victorians...
Casterton it is.
Harvy
Quote from: Harvy on January 17, 2016, 01:50:38 PM
Quote from: nchattaway on January 17, 2016, 02:57:26 AM
A pic of our pack of bikes parked in the main street of Casterton, Vic. Or was it Stawell? Help, you Victorians...
Casterton it is.
Harvy
You've got a sharp eye Harvy.
Noel
Quote from: nchattaway on January 17, 2016, 02:57:26 AM
I am pleased to report that I've just got back from three days on the road with FJ1100 #1136. ........................
Excellent stuff Nathan, that's what it's all about!
Glad to hear the FJ went well.
Re GPS speedo, the unit Fred mentioned is a beauty ( I have used them before on cars) but if you're a bit more budget conscious a simple GPS digital speedo can be had for less than $100 on ebay.
I personally find an analogue speedo difficult to read with any accuracy at a glance at speed anyway. Unfortunately, living in Victoria makes the need for accurate speedo reading essential.
Another option is this, a GPS/HUD unit for $100
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2896/14817220012_b5d02bdc29_c.jpg)
Noel
What make of windshield/visor is that? Looks like you get a lot of coverage.
Quote from: ribbert on January 18, 2016, 07:14:20 AM
Quote from: nchattaway on January 17, 2016, 02:57:26 AM
I am pleased to report that I've just got back from three days on the road with FJ1100 #1136. ........................
Excellent stuff Nathan, that's what it's all about!
Glad to hear the FJ went well.
Re GPS speedo, the unit Fred mentioned is a beauty ( I have used them before on cars) but if you're a bit more budget conscious a simple GPS digital speedo can be had for less than $100 on ebay.
I personally find an analogue speedo difficult to read with any accuracy at a glance at speed anyway. Unfortunately, living in Victoria makes the need for accurate speedo reading essential.
Another option is this, a GPS/HUD unit for $100
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2896/14817220012_b5d02bdc29_c.jpg)
Noel
Quote from: 93fj1200 on January 18, 2016, 08:28:14 PM
What make of windshield/visor is that? Looks like you get a lot of coverage
I believe I see on the r-side of the windshield it says "YAMAHA" with a series of numbers after it (backwards of course). Is that right?
I gotta know too! :unknown:
Quote from: PaulG on January 18, 2016, 10:28:24 PM
Quote from: 93fj1200 on January 18, 2016, 08:28:14 PM
What make of windshield/visor is that? Looks like you get a lot of coverage
I believe I see on the r-side of the windshield it says "YAMAHA" with a series of numbers after it (backwards of course). Is that right?
I gotta know too! :unknown:
It's the non US OEM screen fitted to the 3XW's. It sort of has a built in "Wind Lip"
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7716/17284938916_2d1a774f5b_c.jpg)
Yes, it gives great protection, little wind and rain on all but the top half of my helmet but they are noisy from turbulence. Stand up or duck down a bit and it's quiet. I wear ear plugs anyway so it doesn't worry me.
I like not having to brace myself against the wind. In pissing rain everything on the dash stays dry, even the GPS.
Noel
Sorry for veering off topic, but I did a quick Google search and couldn't find this windscreen. Anyone know where one could be found? They didn't sell them in Canada either.
Fred, Noel, thanks for the tips regarding GPS speedo options. Noel, that is one slick touring setup on your FJ1200 there! I'm getting the impression that many of you guys are in a whole different league of motorcycling budget from my own situation.
Both my 32 year old FJ1100s suffer from ridiculously loud speedo howl, so once I had fairly accurate roadspeed confirmation at various RPM in 4th and 5th gears (e.g. 60kph in 4th is around 2500rpm, 80kph in 5th is around 3000rpm, 100kph in 5th is around 3800rpm) I simply removed the speedo cable for this ride. I have a choice of 3 helmets remaining from those acquired throughout my motorcycling career and none of them is in any way, shall we say cossetting. I have a SHOEI TF280 from around the late 1980s which is in fairly unused condition, but these were never a quiet helmet even when new, due to the two piece shell construction and plastic clamshell visor attachment design. I have a SHOEI RF700 which I've had from new since the late 1990s. This is too small but works well for my teenage sons. And I have an el Cheapo RJays that fits but is just as noisy as the TF280. Even with earplugs, listening to speedo howl for 3 days was just not an option. Lubing the speedo and cable lasted maybe an hour or two.
My bikes are generally grungy and have not ever been pampered by previous owners. I've got one serviceable RH mirror and no LH mirrors between the two bikes. One doesn't run right and needs the clutch pack completely stripped down and redone and the other one has 2nd gear issues and spongey forks and both burn oil. But, bit by bit I aim to make things better. More pics and commentary to come. Is there a time limit to a project thread? I fear I might still be going years from now...
Many threads run for years. This is mostly not by design, but that a newby looking through old posts finds something and asks a new question, which brings it to the fore. And then there are the tire and oil threads, which are impossible to kill.
There are always some with deeper pockets than you, but usually if you give a problem a bit of thought you can figure out an alternative way to get to the end result less expensively.
Re: your old and loud helmets - If they don't fit properly ie too loose or uncomfortable, OR are more than 5years old, replace them with a new helmet. The EPS (the stuff that absorbs the energy of a crash instead of your head) gets old and no longer works as intended.
NOTE: A new cheap helmet that meets standards (DOT or AS1698) will protect you better than the most expensive 7-10 year old super SNELL hat. Just do it.
Quote from: Arnie on January 20, 2016, 08:10:48 PM
Re: your old and loud helmets - If they don't fit properly ie too loose or uncomfortable, OR are more than 5years old, replace them with a new helmet. The EPS (the stuff that absorbs the energy of a crash instead of your head) gets old and no longer works as intended.
NOTE: A new cheap helmet that meets standards (DOT or AS1698) will protect you better than the most expensive 7-10 year old super SNELL hat. Just do it.
Arnie, I agree with you 100%. There are plenty of $100 or less helmets on the market these days, that are a vast improvement on what was available 15 or 20 years ago. They offer lots of appointments that were simply not around back in the good ol' days. Do yourself a favour and get yourself one. A $100 spent on a helmet is a far better investment than $100 spent on your bike. That's my opinion anyway.
Regards, Pete.
Yep, I know this stuff, just have been running on a strict budget. My most recent helmet is now coming up to 7 years old, which is the RJays. It fits fairly well, and is the helmet I use for day to day, but I only have a clear visor so don't like taking it out on long country rides. I'd rather take my helmet with tint, ugly fish sunnies that convert to yellow night lenses after dark, so I can ride visor up.
I've been scouring gumtree for a good late model helmet bargain. Sometimes people sell the darndest things. Like $650 Shark helmets for $200. I missed that one, in my size too. Something will turn up.
I have been using an Aldi helmet the past couple of years. For less than $100 I can afford to get a new one every year. Comes with 2 clear visors and spare cheek pads. Was well tested when I came off last year and a truck dog trailer went over my head and spat me out. Unfortunately dark visors are not available for them
Quote from: stua1959 on January 21, 2016, 02:12:59 PM
I have been using an Aldi helmet the past couple of years. For less than $100 I can afford to get a new one every year. Comes with 2 clear visors and spare cheek pads. Was well tested when I came off last year and a truck dog trailer went over my head and spat me out. Unfortunately dark visors are not available for them
Mates, I`ve been look`n for a good helmet for years. I don`t like the dark visors (internal or optional extra). I keep buying the cheapies like Aldi meanwhile. My biggest issue is the compromise between noise and space for the fitting of sound gear. The number of times I`ve used my hand to shade the sun in certain situations tempts me to buy one with a peak, but never been able to test one with an FJ screen. (guessing wind uplift could be a serious compromise when taking a peak at speed!), so maybe a removable peak.
Love the new invention where you enter helmet from the rear, so guess`n another Aldi meanwhile, until I can peak with the poofter one in a showroom somewhere. (yes I`ve looked at the Shoie`s but reckon their quality and value for money, like most things aren`t as good as the old one!). :drinks:
Quote from: The General on January 21, 2016, 02:35:07 PM
Mates, I`ve been look`n for a good helmet for years. I don`t like the dark visors (internal or optional extra). I keep buying the cheapies like Aldi meanwhile. My biggest issue is the compromise between noise and space for the fitting of sound gear. The number of times I`ve used my hand to shade the sun in certain situations tempts me to buy one with a peak, but never been able to test one with an FJ screen. (guessing wind uplift could be a serious compromise when taking a peak at speed!), so maybe a removable peak.
Love the new invention where you enter helmet from the rear, so guess`n another Aldi meanwhile, until I can peak with the poofter one in a showroom somewhere. (yes I`ve looked at the Shoie`s but reckon their quality and value for money, like most things aren`t as good as the old one!). :drinks:
Doug, I've just bought one of these to use on my TDM 900. It only arrived yesterday, so I haven't had time to try it out yet. From all reviews it should be a good thing. I'll keep you posted. Pete.
http://ls2helmets.us/_live/products/off-road-helmets/92-products/motocross/114-mx453 (http://ls2helmets.us/_live/products/off-road-helmets/92-products/motocross/114-mx453)
Quote from: The General on January 21, 2016, 02:35:07 PMThe number of times I`ve used my hand to shade the sun in certain situations tempts me to buy one with a peak, but never been able to test one with an FJ screen.
Try applying a strip of electrical tape along the top of your visor.
Cheap, and easy to adjust or remove if you don't like it. :pardon:
Quote from: not a lib on January 21, 2016, 05:16:03 PM
Quote from: The General on January 21, 2016, 02:35:07 PMThe number of times I`ve used my hand to shade the sun in certain situations tempts me to buy one with a peak, but never been able to test one with an FJ screen.
Try applying a strip of electrical tape along the top of your visor.
Cheap, and easy to adjust or remove if you don't like it. :pardon:
I`ve actually tried that and it`s probly the best solution economically, esp when I only put strip in the centre and diminished to the sides....and this is another point against some cheap helmets.....I find the opening above my eyes and to the sides to some extent, along with correct fitting to be essential (imho) for observing where both sides of the road meet together ahead, when cornering. The tilt of my noggin doesn`t find it that natural to see it without physically tilting my head hard up in that leaning position. I find I get the perfect line everytime when I force myself to watch that pinprick junction that changes by the second sometimes. So Helmet aperture size I find important, along with relationship of pads to noggin position. (I know a peak has more control of sun shadow, motorcross helmets also have bigger apertures but not sure how the road variety of helmet peak will affect this aspect of my riding) :drinks:
I spoke with Arnie today by phone, regarding suspension improvements. Thanks for your time Arnie, most helpful and enjoyable chatting. Can anyone tell me, does the Clymer FJ manual have the factory damper inserts shown upside down in the exploded part diagram? When we stripped down the forks on #502, they were in the wrong way up compared to the Clymer manual.
I have both the Clymer manual (2nd edition 1996) and the Yamaha factory Service manual. Both exploded views are the same in them. Dave
Quote from: PaulG on January 19, 2016, 07:08:43 AM
Sorry for veering off topic, but I did a quick Google search and couldn't find this windscreen. Anyone know where one could be found? They didn't sell them in Canada either.
I've been looking for one of these for a while as well. I happened to see one this morning for sale on ebay out of Japan and snagged it. :blush:
Quote from: Nova on January 25, 2016, 05:49:22 PM
Quote from: PaulG on January 19, 2016, 07:08:43 AM
Sorry for veering off topic, but I did a quick Google search and couldn't find this windscreen. Anyone know where one could be found? They didn't sell them in Canada either.
I've been looking for one of these for a while as well. I happened to see one this morning for sale on ebay out of Japan and snagged it. :blush:
Well done! I imagine these would be virtually no existent in the US as they were never fitted to the bikes sold there (and apparently Canada) and I don't believe an aftermarket version was ever made.
I imagine many of the bikes originally fitted with them would no longer have them either, having been replaced with conventional aftermarket screens when broken.
I have a spare I paid $500 for. It was a good deal, it came with a complete operational FJ attached!
I have never seen one for sale in 7 years here in Australia and I have only ever seen 2 late model headlights for sale over that time as well, I grabbed one of them a few weeks back. Hunting around for these sort of model specific parts only when you need them could see your bike laid up for a long time. It's good having spare body work tucked away.
Good luck finding one.
Noel
Quote from: TexasDave on January 22, 2016, 06:34:52 AM
I have both the Clymer manual (2nd edition 1996) and the Yamaha factory Service manual. Both exploded views are the same in them. Dave
Thanks Dave. My Clymer manual, despite being bought brand new 2 months ago from an ex Yamaha dealer, is the 1st edition! I wonder if the incorrect fork dis assembly / assembly instructions is one of the reasons FOR the 2nd edition. Now I feel like the $60 I got slugged was a ripoff.
Hello again all.
Life sometimes gets in the way and I can't believe it's been over half a year since my last update! I sold the original FJ1100 project bike to a nice fellow in Vic who already owned an FJ1100 going concern, so he's going to be finishing that one off some time.
I toyed around with the idea of shelling out $13,500 for one of the new Yam XSR900 triples. But then I remembered that's about $13,400 more than my budget, so here I am back on the FJOwners forum with my shiny new HEL clutch braided clutch line having arrived by post this arvo, looking for a replacement master cylinder diaphragm. Yes, my remaining FJ1100's slave cylinder is sneakily emptying the contents of the reservoir when the bike sits unused.
I've ordered a slave cyl rebuild kit from the US, thought it was high time to ditch the factory rubber clutch hose assy in the same job.
If anyone has ideas about where to find one of these for an 84, I'd be glad to hear from you.
Quote from: nchattaway on August 03, 2016, 07:29:20 AM
Hello again all.
Life sometimes gets in the way and I can't believe it's been over half a year since my last update! I sold the original FJ1100 project bike to a nice fellow in Vic who already owned an FJ1100 going concern, so he's going to be finishing that one off some time.
I toyed around with the idea of shelling out $13,500 for one of the new Yam XSR900 triples. But then I remembered that's about $13,400 more than my budget, so here I am back on the FJOwners forum with my shiny new HEL clutch braided clutch line having arrived by post this arvo, looking for a replacement master cylinder diaphragm. Yes, my remaining FJ1100's slave cylinder is sneakily emptying the contents of the reservoir when the bike sits unused.
I've ordered a slave cyl rebuild kit from the US, thought it was high time to ditch the factory rubber clutch hose assy in the same job.
If anyone has ideas about where to find one of these for an 84, I'd be glad to hear from you.
I have entered the part number for it in Google and it seems this store has it: http://shop.gpsportsonline.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=3935678&category=Motorcycles&make=Yamaha&year=1984&fveh=177085 (http://shop.gpsportsonline.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=3935678&category=Motorcycles&make=Yamaha&year=1984&fveh=177085)
That's the way I usually try to find "hard-to-find" parts. Put the part no. in Google and check every link it pops out. Sometimes you are lucky that someone still has it. Send a couple of e-mails for confirmation and that's it.
Try these also, send e-mails: http://shop.nrys.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=3936471&category=Motorcycles&make=Yamaha&year=1985&fveh=177104 (http://shop.nrys.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=3936471&category=Motorcycles&make=Yamaha&year=1985&fveh=177104)
http://shop.nrys.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=3936471&category=Motorcycles&make=Yamaha&year=1985&fveh=177104 (http://shop.nrys.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=3936471&category=Motorcycles&make=Yamaha&year=1985&fveh=177104)
http://w.dhy.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=3935678&category=Motorcycles&make=Yamaha&year=1984&fveh=177085 (http://w.dhy.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=3935678&category=Motorcycles&make=Yamaha&year=1984&fveh=177085)
http://www.andersonvintageparts.com/1984/front-master-cylinder-2.html (http://www.andersonvintageparts.com/1984/front-master-cylinder-2.html)
Is it the same one on FJ1200? Check it.
Thanks! Also, RPM emailed to say that the later 86-93 FJ1200 clutch master cyl diaphragm does fit the FJ1100. So, problem solved guys!
Quote from: nchattaway on August 05, 2016, 05:22:01 AM
Thanks! Also, RPM emailed to say that the later 86-93 FJ1200 clutch master cyl diaphragm does fit the FJ1100. So, problem solved guys!
That's great because they are cheaper than the ones for 1100, if you even manage to find it.
OK, I'm after a bit of advice.
1. Who is using a Corbin Gunfighter seat, and do you like it? Who has tried an Airhawk seat cushion? I'm thinking the bike would be more comfortable on long rides if the seat was maybe 30mm higher than stock, so I'd have a bit more legroom down to the pegs.
2. Who has fitted a tube handlebar conversion and what product do you recommend? I've seen the LSL one RPM offers, but it seems very expensive and I'm sure I could buy a couple of clamps that I drill and bolt to the factory top fork clamp. I'm pretty happy with the stock FJ1100 seat to bar relationship, but if I lift the seat 30mm I'll want to lift the bars 30mm too, and maybe give them a bit more width. Thoughts?
3. I'm 94kg and planning on fitting the Racetech cartridge emulators and some racetech springs. Should I go for .95kg/m?
4. With the fork rebuild I plan on ditching the anti dive. Can I leave them on the forks, but just not fit the brake lines down to them? I need to know since I want to buy a set of 3 braided brake hoses, but dont' know if I'd be ordering FJ1200 brake lines (3) or FJ1100 brake lines (5). Are the FJ11 and 12 brake lines otherwise identical? Obviously I'd only need the short banjo bolts at the calipers to take a single hose.
Cheers,
Nathan
Quote from: nchattaway on August 07, 2016, 09:23:12 AM
1. ... Who has tried an Airhawk seat cushion? I'm thinking the bike would be more comfortable on long rides if the seat was maybe 30mm higher than stock, so I'd have a bit more legroom down to the pegs.
I've had an Air Hawk cushion for 4 seasons now and it's a great investment. I first bought it when I went to the GP in Texas in '13. It was about a 5,000km round trip from Toronto - and it was the first ride of the year. I only just got the bike serviced and ready 2 weeks before after winter storage, and I knew this was going to grind me down physically.
Six hrs on the road was not a problem. The 8-10 hr days were a grind for the last 2-3 hrs. Then again I'm not that young anymore, or flexible, or physically fit... but I still have all my hair and teeth! It will add a little bit of height to the seat but not as much as you might think. When it's inflated there is actually very little air in it. Too much air and it balloons up between your crotch and squishes your nuts. Fully inflated you will actually start to bounce around, and the cushion can flex sideways making it a bit unstable. The first couple of rides you will have to adjust the air volume to suit.
Only minor flaw is the mounting straps and hooks are knda flimsy. They work ok I guess but a simple strap with a velcro backing would have been better.
It's a relatively cheap alternative to forking out for a new seat and I think a real ass saver for those long touring days or trips. FWIW.
Quote from: nchattaway on August 07, 2016, 09:23:12 AM
OK, I'm after a bit of advice.
1. Who is using a Corbin Gunfighter seat, and do you like it? Who has tried an Airhawk seat cushion? I'm thinking the bike would be more comfortable on long rides if the seat was maybe 30mm higher than stock, so I'd have a bit more legroom down to the pegs.
I have the Corbin gunfighter seat on my '84 and I love it. For years I've resisted buying a Corbin because I felt that the seats are too hard, so I used my oem seat with a sheepskin cover. The sheepskin allowed my butt to breathe on long trips. While the Corbin seat is hard when you first sit on it, after 200 miles you will appreciate it I tried the Airhawk and it was comfortable, but only for freeway miles. I felt unstable in the twistys.
You are on the right track about increasing your seat to peg distance. I installed some Buell pegs that lowered my pegs ~1.25" and these made a remarkable difference.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/8/49_15_03_15_1_50_01.jpeg)
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/8/49_15_03_15_1_49_14.jpeg)
http://www.buellparts.net/content-product_info/product_id-1427/firebolt_xb_footpeg_kit_rider.html (http://www.buellparts.net/content-product_info/product_id-1427/firebolt_xb_footpeg_kit_rider.html)
Quote from: nchattaway on August 07, 2016, 09:23:12 AM
2. Who has fitted a tube handlebar conversion and what product do you recommend? I've seen the LSL one RPM offers, but it seems very expensive and I'm sure I could buy a couple of clamps that I drill and bolt to the factory top fork clamp. I'm pretty happy with the stock FJ1100 seat to bar relationship, but if I lift the seat 30mm I'll want to lift the bars 30mm too, and maybe give them a bit more width. Thoughts?
Be careful here...Don't cheap out on your handlebar clamps. You life depends on them. If you drill your FJ top triple clamp for the 4 bar clamp mounting bolts you may find that you don't have enough meat (material) on the FJ triple clamp to properly support the bolts. Having just one of those 4 clamp bolts come loose at the wrong moment will ruin your day. I recall the FJ top triple has a stepped surface (not flat) so I'm not sure about mounting bar clamps anyway.
IF you can not afford quality, start by getting some less expensive bar riser spacers.
(http://rpmracingca.com/prodimages/large/M%20C%20HandleBarRiser-1.jpg)
http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3AHandleBarRiser (http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3AHandleBarRiser)
Quote from: nchattaway on August 07, 2016, 09:23:12 AM
3. I'm 94kg and planning on fitting the Racetech cartridge emulators and some racetech springs. Should I go for .95kg/m?
Back in the early '90's I had the Race Tech Emulators and 1.0 kg/mm springs. I'm 90 kg without gear and felt that 1.0 kg/mm springs were slightly on the stiff side for solo street riding. However, you would be ok with 1.0 kg/mm springs. .95 kg/mm springs may be a bit light if you carry a passenger and/or luggage.
Race Tech emulators are a step up from the oem FJ damper rod forks, but again, that was '80's technology. Better options exist today.
Personally, I would not spend any money on Race Tech fork components. The RPM IAT fork valves and matching springs are superior.
Quote from: nchattaway on August 07, 2016, 09:23:12 AM
4. With the fork rebuild I plan on ditching the anti dive. Can I leave them on the forks, but just not fit the brake lines down to them? I need to know since I want to buy a set of 3 braided brake hoses, but dont' know if I'd be ordering FJ1200 brake lines (3) or FJ1100 brake lines (5). Are the FJ11 and 12 brake lines otherwise identical? Obviously I'd only need the short banjo bolts at the calipers to take a single hose.
I'll let others chime in on this one. I have no experience on Anti Dive (AD) removal. I converted my forks over to the '89-93 forks when I did my first mod so the AD units went away at that time..
I recall FJ Monkey Mark mentioning that all you had to do is to flip the AD units upside down.
I also recall special blank off plates with the needed proper oil passages so you can remove the AD units entirely.
Stand by for more....
Cheers Pat
G'day Nathan,
Re the anti-dive removal, it depends on how much you want to spend.
I did the springs and race tech mod on my 11 & think it's wonderful. I simply left the old anti dive units connected and in place.
There are opinions about some delay/loss of braking force as the anti dive circuit still operates, but I can't feel it. However I am not a particularly sporty rider.
From a budget perspective, leave the anti dive in place and see what you think once you've done the fork fix, then blank off or what ever method you choose if you think it needs it.
Another option is to upgrade the whole front end. Down your way I think you'll likely be able to find a later model FJ front end from a wrecker pretty cheaply, then you have a 17" front tyre and better forks with no anti dive issue. I've done that to my 12 & think it was a notable improvement. Corners don't feel quicker, but smoother. Swapping between bikes and I can now confidently say the newer front end is worth it.
If you do go to the wreckers, try and get a GSXR750 rear as well. This wheel will slip right in and you'll have a 17" rear so you can have radial front and back. Your FJ will then be in the performance and handling neighbourhood that XSR900 (yeah I know you can't beat modern tech). There are excellent instructions on how to do this in the files section.
I'm with Pat on the Corbin. They feel firm at first, but are a back saver if you have a fun day of twisties. They are also fine for highway boringness.
Troy
Thanks Paul, Pat and Troy.
Most of my riding is on very winding hills roads, so it sounds like the Airhawk wouldn't be good for that. But the stock seat does the trick there anyway. I don't get time to get sore knees. So for this riding, I wouldn't want the pegs any lower. They scrape easily enough as it is, along with the 4-1 collector pipe. And on the longer trips, I ride with guys on cruisers, so high speed cornering isn't really the name of the game then. Perhaps the Airhawk for long trips and not for commuting. It'd be nice to have adjustable peg height without having to go to the bother of changing them over for long trips.
I quite like the feel of the 16" wheels on the long and low stock FJ1100 chassis, and would prefer to keep the bike looking period correct for the big things, so I can't see myself going down the late model forks/brakes/wheels route. I'd sooner buy a Thunderace for 3 or 4k if that was the goal. I'll probably leave the anti-dive in place and just fork out (nyuk nyuk) for the extra two braided hoses to connect 'em up.
Opinion seems divided around here about the RPM vs Racetech emulators, with most US guys going for the RPM and most Aussies going for the RT. We like em stiffer down under. No concrete boulevard highways with expansion seams around here mate. Just horrible roads with potholes and cracks. Sounds like the 1.0kg/mm spring rate might be better for me with the twisty commute, even though I won't be carrying a pillion or much gear normally.
Thanks all! Keep the suggestions coming.
My opinion FWIW. I started with Racetech emulators and later upgraded to the RPM fork valves. RPM vs Racetech is like comparing apples to oranges, when trying to make an apple pie. The RPM valves are made for the FJ specifically. Like apples are made for apple pies. The race tech emulators are the oranges in this equation. Here is a list of the bikes the Racetech emulators for the "FJ" fit. As you will see there are a wide variety of bikes, with extremely different weights and riding styles than the "FJ". The Racetech valves, while better than the stock valving, just can't beat a good apple pie....errrrrr.... I mean the RPM valves :wacko2:
BMW-
2012 - F650GS
2012 - G650GS
2011 - F650GS
2011 - G650GS
2010 - F650GS
2010 - G650GS
2009 - F650GS
2009 - G650GS
2007 - F650GS
2007 - F650GS Dakar
2006 - F650GS
2006 - F650GS Dakar
2005 - F650GS
2005 - F650GS Dakar
2005 - F650GS ABS
2005 - F650GS Dakar ABS
2004 - F650GS
2004 - F650GS Dakar
2004 - F650GS Dakar ABS
2003 - F650GS
2003 - F650GS Dakar
2003 - F650GS ABS
2003 - F650GS Dakar ABS
2002 - F650GS
2002 - F650GS Dakar
2002 - F650GS ABS
2002 - F650GS Dakar ABS
2001 - F650GS
2001 - F650GS Dakar
2001 - F650GS ABS
2000 - F650
1999 - F650
1998 - F650
1997 - F650
1997 - K1100LT
1997 - K1100LT High Line
1997 - K1100LT Special Edition
1996 - K1100LT
1995 - K75RT
1995 - K75S
1995 - K1100LT
1995 - K75
1995 - K75/3
1995 - K75/3A
1995 - K75RT ABS
1995 - K75S ABS
1994 - K75RT
1994 - K75S
1994 - K100RS
1994 - K1100LT
1994 - K1100LT Special Edition
1994 - K75
1994 - K75RT ABS
1994 - K75S ABS
1994 - K75A
1993 - K100LT
1993 - K75RT
1993 - K75S
1993 - K100RS
1993 - K1100LT
1993 - K75
1993 - K75RT ABS
1993 - K75S ABS
1992 - K100LT
1992 - K100LT ABS
1992 - K75RT
1992 - K75S
1992 - K100RS
1992 - K1100LT
1992 - K75
1992 - K75RT ABS
1992 - K75S ABS
1991 - K100LT
1991 - K100LT ABS
1991 - K75RT
1991 - K75S
1991 - K100RS
1991 - K75
1991 - K75RT ABS
1991 - K75S ABS
1990 - K100LT
1990 - K100LT ABS
1990 - K75RT
1990 - K75S
1990 - K100RS
1990 - K75
1989 - K100LT
1989 - K100LT ABS
1989 - K75S
1989 - K100RS ABS
1989 - K100RS
1989 - K75
1988 - K75S
1988 - K100RT
1988 - K75C
1988 - K75
1987 - K75S
1987 - K100RT
1987 - K75C
1987 - K75T
1987 - K75
1986 - K75S
1986 - K100RT
1986 - K75C
1986 - K75T
Honda-
2013 - NC700X
2013 - NC700XD
2012 - NC700X
2012 - NC700XD
2008 - VTX1300C Custom
2008 - VTX1300R Retro cast
2008 - VTX1300T Tourer
2007 - VTX1300C Custom
2007 - VTX1300R Retro cast
2007 - VT1100C Shadow Spirit
2007 - VT1100C2 Shadow Sabre
2007 - VTX1300S Retro spoke
2006 - VTX1300C Custom
2006 - VTX1300R Retro cast
2006 - VT1100C Shadow Spirit
2006 - VT1100C2 Shadow Sabre
2006 - VTX1300S Retro spoke
2005 - VTX1300C Custom
2005 - VTX1300R Retro cast
2005 - CB600F 599
2005 - VT1100C Shadow Spirit
2005 - VT1100C2 Shadow Sabre
2005 - VTX1300S Retro spoke
2004 - VTX1300C Custom
2004 - CB600F 599
2004 - VT1100C Shadow Spirit
2004 - VT1100C2 Shadow Sabre
2004 - VTX1300S Retro spoke
2003 - VT1100C Shadow Spirit
2003 - VT1100C2 Shadow Sabre
2003 - VTX1300S Retro spoke
2003 - CB750 Nighthawk
2003 - VF750C Magna
2002 - VT1100C Shadow Spirit
2002 - VT1100C2 Shadow Sabre
2002 - CB750 Nighthawk
2002 - VF750C Magna
2002 - VT1100C3 Shadow Aero
2002 - VT1100CT Shadow ACE Tour
2001 - VT1100C Shadow Spirit
2001 - VT1100C2 Shadow Sabre
2001 - CB750 Nighthawk
2001 - VF750C Magna
2001 - VT1100C3 Shadow Aero
2001 - VT1100CT Shadow ACE Tour
2000 - VT1100C Shadow Spirit
2000 - VT1100C2 Shadow Sabre
2000 - CB750 Nighthawk
2000 - VF750C Magna
2000 - VT750C Shadow A.C.E.
2000 - VT1100C3 Shadow Aero
2000 - VT1100CT Shadow ACE Tour
1999 - VT1100C Shadow Spirit
1999 - VT1100C2 Shadow Sabre
1999 - CB750 Nighthawk
1999 - VF750C Magna
1999 - VT750C Shadow A.C.E.
1999 - VT1100C3 Shadow Aero
1999 - VT1100CT Shadow ACE Tour
1999 - VT1100C2 Shadow ACE
1998 - VT1100C Shadow Spirit
1998 - CB750 Nighthawk
1998 - VF750C Magna
1998 - VT750C Shadow A.C.E.
1998 - VT1100C3 Shadow Aero
1998 - VT1100CT Shadow ACE Tour
1998 - VT1100C2 Shadow ACE
1998 - VT1100C Shadow
1997 - VT1100C Shadow Spirit
1997 - CB750 Nighthawk
1997 - VF750C Magna
1997 - VT1100C2 Shadow ACE
1997 - VT1100C Shadow
1996 - CB750 Nighthawk
1996 - VF750C Magna
1996 - VT1100C2 Shadow ACE
1996 - VT1100C Shadow
1995 - CB750 Nighthawk
1995 - VF750C Magna
1995 - VT1100C2 Shadow ACE
1995 - VT1100C Shadow
1994 - CB750 Nighthawk
1994 - VF750C Magna
1994 - VT1100C Shadow
1993 - CB750 Nighthawk
1993 - VT1100C Shadow
1993 - CBR600F F2
1992 - CB750 Nighthawk
1992 - VT1100C Shadow
1992 - CBR600F F2
1991 - CB750 Nighthawk
1991 - CBR600F F2
1991 - NT650 Hawk GT
1990 - PC800 Pacific Coast
1990 - VT1100C Shadow
1990 - NT650 Hawk GT
1990 - CB400F CB-1
1989 - PC800 Pacific Coast
1989 - VT1100C Shadow
1989 - NT650 Hawk GT
1989 - CB400F CB-1
1988 - VT1100C Shadow
1988 - CBR1000F Hurricane
1988 - NT650 Hawk GT
1987 - CBR1000F Hurricane
1987 - GL1200A Gold Wing Aspencade
1987 - GL1200I Gold Wing Interstate
1987 - GL1200 Gold Wing
1986 - GL1200A Gold Wing Aspencade
1986 - GL1200I Gold Wing Interstate
1986 - GL1200SEI Gold Wing Aspencade
1986 - VF1000R Interceptor
1986 - VF1100C V65 Magna
1986 - GL1200 Gold Wing
1985 - GL1200A Gold Wing Aspencade
1985 - GL1200I Gold Wing Interstate
1985 - VF1000R Interceptor
1985 - VF1100C V65 Magna
1985 - GL1200L Gold Wing Limited
1985 - VF1100S V65 Sabre
1985 - GL1200 Gold Wing
1984 - GL1200A Gold Wing Aspencade
1984 - GL1200I Gold Wing Interstate
1984 - VF1100C V65 Magna
1984 - VF1100S V65 Sabre
1984 - GL1200 Gold Wing
1984 - VF1000F Interceptor
Kawasaki-
2011 - EX650 Ninja 650R
2010 - EX650 Ninja 650R
2009 - EX650 Ninja 650R
2008 - EX650 Ninja 650R
2007 - EX650 Ninja 650R
2006 - EX650 Ninja 650R
2004 - ZX600 ZZ-R 600
2003 - ZX600 ZZ-R 600
2002 - ZX600 Ninja ZX-6
2001 - ZX600 Ninja ZX-6
2000 - ZX600 Ninja ZX-6
1999 - ZX600 Ninja ZX-6
1998 - ZX600 Ninja ZX-6
1997 - ZX600 Ninja ZX-6
1997 - GPZ1100/ ABS
1996 - ZX600 Ninja ZX-6
1996 - GPZ1100/ ABS
1995 - ZX600 Ninja ZX-6
1995 - GPZ1100/ ABS
1994 - ZX600 Ninja ZX-6
1993 - ZX600 Ninja ZX-6
1992 - ZX600 Ninja ZX-6
1992 - ZR750C Zephyr
1991 - ZX600 Ninja ZX-6
1991 - ZR750C Zephyr
1990 - ZX600 Ninja ZX-6
1990 - ZX1000 Ninja ZX-10
1989 - ZX1000 Ninja ZX-10
Suzuki-
2012 - C50T Boulevard
2011 - C50 Boulevard
2011 - C50T Boulevard
2011 - GSX650F
2011 - SFV650 Gladius
2010 - C50 Boulevard
2010 - GSX650F
2010 - SFV650 Gladius
2009 - C50 Boulevard
2009 - C50 Boulevard SE
2009 - C50T Boulevard
2009 - GSX650F
2009 - SFV650 Gladius
2009 - SV650S
2009 - SV650SA ABS
2009 - SV650
2009 - SV650A ABS
2008 - C50 Boulevard
2008 - C50T Boulevard
2008 - GSX650F
2008 - SV650S
2008 - SV650SA ABS
2008 - C50B Boulevard
2008 - C50C Boulevard
2008 - SV650
2008 - SV650A ABS
2007 - C50 Boulevard
2007 - C50T Boulevard
2007 - SV650S
2007 - SV650SA ABS
2007 - C50B Boulevard
2007 - C50C Boulevard
2007 - SV650
2007 - SV650A ABS
2006 - C50 Boulevard
2006 - C50T Boulevard
2006 - SV650S
2006 - C50B Boulevard
2006 - C50C Boulevard
2006 - SV650
2006 - GSX600F Katana
2006 - GSX750F Katana
2005 - C50 Boulevard
2005 - C50T Boulevard
2005 - SV650S
2005 - C50B Boulevard
2005 - SV650
2005 - GSX600F Katana
2005 - GSX750F Katana
2004 - SV650S
2004 - SV650
2004 - GSX600F Katana
2004 - GSX750F Katana
2004 - VL800 Intruder Volusia
2004 - GSF600S Bandit
2003 - SV650S
2003 - SV650
2003 - GSX600F Katana
2003 - GSX750F Katana
2003 - VL800 Intruder Volusia
2003 - GSF600S Bandit
2002 - GSX600F Katana
2002 - GSX750F Katana
2002 - VL800 Intruder Volusia
2002 - GSF600S Bandit
2001 - GSX600F Katana
2001 - GSX750F Katana
2001 - VL800 Intruder Volusia
2001 - GSF600S Bandit
2000 - GSX600F Katana
2000 - GSX750F Katana
2000 - GSF600S Bandit
1999 - GSX600F Katana
1999 - GSX750F Katana
1999 - GSF600S Bandit
1998 - GSX600F Katana
1998 - GSX750F Katana
1998 - GSF600S Bandit
1997 - GSX600F Katana
1997 - GSF600S Bandit
1996 - GSX600F Katana
1996 - GSF600S Bandit
1996 - RF600
1995 - GSX600F Katana
1995 - RF600
1994 - GSX600F Katana
1994 - RF600
1993 - GSX600F Katana
1992 - GSX600F Katana
1992 - GSF400 Bandit
1991 - GSX600F Katana
1991 - GSF400 Bandit
1990 - GSX600F Katana
1989 - GSX600F Katana
1988 - GSX600F Katana
1988 - GSX-R1100
1988 - GSX1100F Katana
1987 - GSX-R750
1987 - GSX-R1100
1986 - GSX-R750
Triumph-
2013 - Rocket III Touring
2012 - Rocket III Touring
2011 - Rocket III Touring
2010 - Rocket III Touring
Victory-
2007 - Vegas
Yamaha-
2012 - FZS600 FZ6R
2011 - FZS600 FZ6R
2010 - FZS600 FZ6R
2009 - FZS600 FZ6
2008 - FZS600 FZ6
2007 - FZS600 FZ6
2006 - FZS600 FZ6
2005 - FZS600 FZ6
2004 - FZS600 FZ6
1995 - YZF600R
1993 - FJ1200
1992 - FJ1200
1991 - FJ1200
1990 - FJ1200
1989 - FJ1200
1988 - FZR1000
1988 - FJ1200
1988 - FZR750R
1987 - FZR1000
1987 - FJ1200
1987 - FZR750R
1986 - FJ1200
1985 - FJ1100
1984 - FJ1100
Hi Copper.
Are you on a stock FJ1100?
How much do you weigh?
Are you in the US or Australia?
What type of riding do you mostly do?
What type of roads do you mostly ride on?
What type of bike do you think an FJ1100 is and should be? A sporty tourer, a comfy sportsbike? A classic musclebike? This is your definition of an apple pie, but it won't be everyone's.
What specifically didn't you like about the RT emulators in your FJ?
What do you specifically prefer about the RPM valves, having used both back-to-back on the same bike?
Answers to these questions would help me understand your opinion if you're willing to spend the time. I wouldn't imagine many of us have the experience back to back like you do, so your opinion carries weight for that.
Cheers,
Nathan
Quote from: nchattaway on August 08, 2016, 06:44:45 AM
Opinion seems divided around here ......... No concrete boulevard highways with expansion seams around here mate. Just horrible roads with potholes and cracks.
I think you've nailed it Nathan. I have IAT suspension and it works like a dream over cracks, cats eyes, man hole covers, expansion joints, over banding, railway lines etc. makes them disappear. Unfortunately 99% of our roads are as you describe, get out on some secondary roads and they're even worse.
An average days ride for me will see my arse in the air plenty of times, the wind knocked out of me a few times and unable to talk while riding over bumpy roads at speed. I know plenty of people who live, work or holiday in the US who will all tell you the same thing, they don't know what a bad road is.
American cars are notorious for falling apart here, they are simply not made for our roads. Jeeps are very popular, but you could travel the length and breadth of the Australian Outback (where every vehicle is a 4WD) visit every farm and mine in the country and not see a single Jeep for this reason (but the cities are crawling with them and they're very popular at suburban boat ramps and school pick up time) they are simply not robust enough for the conditions.
One place I was happy with my set up was out here.....
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/458/19251117529_36ee6e9903_c.jpg)
...on corrugated dirt roads. At speeds even up to 160kph the suspension handled it well.
I've never used RT components so I'm not pushing a barrow for them either.
Noel
Quote from: nchattaway on August 09, 2016, 05:40:16 AM
Hi Copper.
Are you on a stock FJ1100?
I started with the racetechs on my stock 86 which had the anti dive unit on it when I acquired it. I then upgraded to the RPM fork valves. I now have a 92 and when I sold the 86 I put the emulators back into it and took my RPM valves with me to my 92. After riding it with just the front done I eventually put the RPM shock on as well as I got more comfortable in the twistys with the FJ I noticed I didn't like how the rear felt anymore with the sacked out rear shock, something I didn't notice with the stock or the RT, as it felt the front end was glued to the road now and the rear was like riding a pogo stick
How much do you weigh?
I'm about 215-220lbs with riding gear. I was at a .95 kg spring with the RT and now am at a .85 with the RPM
Are you in the US or Australia?
I'm in the US (all over the place for work)
What type of riding do you mostly do?
I do a lot of slabbing during the week and every chance I get I try to get up to the twistys. I try every for weekend but sometimes I have to settle for maybe twice a month
What type of roads do you mostly ride on?
Freeway, goat trails, occasionally some dirt. Anything that can accommodate two wheels really
What type of bike do you think an FJ1100 is and should be? A sporty tourer, a comfy sportsbike? A classic musclebike? This is your definition of an apple pie, but it won't be everyone's.
For me the FJ is a cross breed between all three. It has unbelievable power, it is more comfortable than my crotch rockets, when I still had them, making it better to ride for long periods of time for my ever aging body, and I can ride it faster than most the yocals on their current sportsbikes. So to me it is the classic trifecta of awesome.
What specifically didn't you like about the RT emulators in your FJ?
It's not that I didn't like them, like I said they are better than the stock under sprung stuff that Yamaha started with
What do you specifically prefer about the RPM valves, having used both back-to-back on the same bike?
I wanted to try the RPM valves after reading all the reviews on here about them. Right from the start I noticed the RPM valves took high speed bumps, low speed bumps, long fast sweepers, short tight turns, and really everything more comfortably with better feedback. The RPM valves did take a bit of adjusting but the adjustment is done with the washers that come with the springs, and is done without removing the springs or the valves. Whereas the RT took a lot more to dial in and they are more of a PITA to adjust as you have to physically remove the springs and the valves to adjust them. All in all I have a smoother ride for the bumpy roads around the US and I have far more confidence when ripping up the mountain roads with the RPM valves than I ever did with the RT. Adding the 17" rear and the RPM shock just absolutely put this bike over the top for me.
Answers to these questions would help me understand your opinion if you're willing to spend the time. I wouldn't imagine many of us have the experience back to back like you do, so your opinion carries weight for that.
I think I remember seeing a post of someone else doing it before I did but maybe i'm wrong.
Hello again all. It's now a year since I picked up this FJ1100 and I don't seem to have made a lot of progress on the project. Last time I posted I had bought a clutch slave kit and braided clutch line to fit. Since then I've splurged on a full front and rear braided brake line set, including the lines to retain the anti-dive. Yes, I've decided to keep her looking mostly original.
All braided lines are from HEL in Queensland AUS. Thanks HEL! They're in stock looking black, although I had to use stainless banjos because they'd run out of black ones. I kept the factory rubber boots on the master cylinder ends, so it looks pretty stock to the casual observer.
Anyway, enough about the looks, they feel great! I'm actually confident enough to return to 2 finger braking, which I've been missing since getting on this FJ. Just getting rid of those spongey 32 year old hoses has made an amazing improvement to the feel of all brakes and the clutch too. Money well spent. My philosophy here is to get the bike running and performing reliably first, before tackling any purely cosmetic improvements. I get a bit of a kick from riding around on such a daggy looking old girl, knowing she starts and purrs and can handle a spirited ride whenever I'm in the mood. Because I know you all love pics, feast your eyes on the splendour of HEL...
And some more...
Hi Nathan, I have an Air Hawk that get`s loaned out to those long trip riders heading to the FJ Natioanl Rally in March each year. (you`ve got first dibbs). Borrowers usually buy one after they`ve tried it. Pillions love it. Get the air pressure right (Almost zero is the trick) and they are great for everything including spirited handling.
I also loaned out a Corbin gunfighter seat at the 2013 Rally and the borrower tried every trick in the book ta get out of giving it back!.....in the end we agreeed on a substantial sum of money along with weeks of labour at my place. (I miss that Corbin.) :drinks:
As you can see from the pics, this bike is far from pristine, and there's a lot of every sort of work to keep me out of trouble if I can find the time. The wiring needs a good sorting out! There are custom wires in evidence all over the place, and I'm too scared to hook the horn up because last time I did it blew a fuse. Sometimes, the headlight needs a few goes to come on.
All the metal surfaces are furry and pitted from spending many years near the coast. The paint is faded in places, and missing from wherever hydraulic fluid has been spilled over the years of less than careful ownership by those who have gone before me. What jobs would you recommend be done at the same time as fork rebuild? I'm thinking check and repack headstem roller bearings, replace front wheel bearings, perhaps remove the fairing and try to paint up some of the rusty bits on the frame.
I haven't regoed mine yet but only a few days away from that event. Anyhow I'm following you on the same path but ticking of the must does in slightly different order. Had to replace speedo and am about to do sprockets and chain. Did you get your braided lines direct or from a shop. That's the next thing on the list and then I'll tackle suspension. I'm looking forward to its first run on the open road