Has anyone used one of these, heard of one of these, or seen one used? Any opinions on the use of one of these to add a small amount of cooling??
I use a filter that is for a 1988 Acura Integra with a 1.6l engine.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/191286933283?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2648&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT (http://www.ebay.com/itm/191286933283?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2648&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o145/aviationfred/s-l500_zps41aq5kuh.jpg) (http://s119.photobucket.com/user/aviationfred/media/s-l500_zps41aq5kuh.jpg.html)
Fred
How much cooling do you need Fred!!!!
With the 1300 build to commence this week and the 95*-105*F temps that I experience during the summer, I figure any extra cooling would be good.... :unknown:
Fred
I would think one of Randy's oil coolers would be cooling enough. Dave
Quote from: TexasDave on December 06, 2015, 07:24:16 PM
I would think one of Randy's oil coolers would be cooling enough. Dave
+1 for RPM oil coolers.
Looking at that sleeve I would guess it would trap more heat than it would shed.
I would hope one of those 2 Allen screws wouldn't poke a hole thru the wall of the filter case.
Things could then get very exciting........Vibrations do funny things.
Quote from: TexasDave on December 06, 2015, 07:24:16 PM
I would think one of Randy's oil coolers would be cooling enough. Dave
I have the RPM oil cooler. :yahoo:
Fred
As said earlier, too much chance of puncturing the filter. It won't have sufficient contact with the filter to act as a heat exchanger......................... it's not in the air flow. I rest my case.
The sole purpose of that device is to extract 20-dollar bills from your wallet.
Wait... it's made from "weapons grade billet aluminum." Oooooo.... :sarcastic:
Fred,
I have, in stock an oil filter with built in cooling fins.
FLO Stainless Steel Oil Filter (http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=FLOSpinOn)
(http://rpmracingca.com/prodimages/large/FLOSpinOn-1.jpg)
Randy - RPM
Randy, Randy, Randy...That is not an oil filter. Stop saying that.
It a debris screen to keep metal chunks out of your oil system. There is no *real* filtering quality.
Don't make me get Ed involved.
40μ 'filtration'? Seems to mutually exclusive, imo. Buy a bigger cooler if you run hot. I still feel you might as well put in a bypass plate as run a Scott 'filter'.
A REAL filter http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/filters-and-by-pass-systems/oil/amsoil-ea-oil-filters/?code=EA15K20-EA (http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/filters-and-by-pass-systems/oil/amsoil-ea-oil-filters/?code=EA15K20-EA)
Let me know if you want to try one, or any other Amsoil products.
(Thanks for the plug, Pat!)
Ed
Quote from: simi_ed on December 09, 2015, 10:27:13 AM
Buy a bigger cooler if you run hot.
Nope, fix your carb jetting first. USA FJ's came jetted lean from Yamaha, courtesy of the EPA.
Fatten that bad boy up first.
Quote from: Pat Conlon on December 09, 2015, 01:09:12 AM
Randy, Randy, Randy...That is not an oil filter. Stop saying that.
It a debris screen to keep metal chunks out of your oil system. There is no *real* filtering quality.
Don't make me get Ed involved.
Pat, I just checked the definition of "filter";
a porous device for removing impurities or solid particles from a liquid or gas passed through it.It does not state what form of media or level of micron is allowed to pass; paper, screen, gauze, netting, etc.
Since I have added the Flo oil filter to inventory I have sold more than fifty and I have not had a single complaint or report of any engine troubles.
Here is an interesting video and I found a couple of years ago. It covers everything about filtration rating very well and is not biased to one specific brand.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=aiLhfAFhkvs (https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=aiLhfAFhkvs)
I think the very last part of the video regarding bypass is the most important and all filters have them. So, basically if the filter traps too much the pressure rises, the bypass kicks in and then there is no filtration.
I guess at the end of the day, it would be great to know the specific information regarding the stock filter rating and then base your selection on a filter that is comparable or slightly better.
It is up to the consumer to educate themselves on the micron rating, claims of micron rating in oil filters; I just stock and sell what the customer is asking for.
Randy - RPM
Point taken Randy. I guess a screen is a filter...of sorts.
Excuse me, but it's getting windy here in the desert, and I've got to go close my patio sliding glass door...
....it seems that the screen door is not much in the way of a dust filter.
Quote from: Pat Conlon on December 09, 2015, 01:11:21 PM
Point taken Randy. I guess a screen is a filter...of sorts.
Excuse me, but it's getting windy here in the desert, and I've got to go close my patio sliding glass door...
....it seems that the screen door is not much in the way of a dust filter.
That just means you need a tighter mesh screen... :biggrin:
Randy - RPM
Probably, but hey, at least the screen is washable!
Quote from: racerrad8 on December 09, 2015, 12:22:09 PM
Quote from: Pat Conlon on December 09, 2015, 01:09:12 AM
Randy, Randy, Randy...That is not an oil filter. Stop saying that.
It a debris screen to keep metal chunks out of your oil system. There is no *real* filtering quality.
Don't make me get Ed involved.
Pat, I just checked the definition of "filter"; a porous device for removing impurities or solid particles from a liquid or gas passed through it.
It does not state what form of media or level of micron is allowed to pass; paper, screen, gauze, netting, etc.
Since I have added the Flo oil filter to inventory I have sold more than fifty and I have not had a single complaint or report of any engine troubles.
Here is an interesting video and I found a couple of years ago. It covers everything about filtration rating very well and is not biased to one specific brand.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=aiLhfAFhkvs (https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=aiLhfAFhkvs)
I think the very last part of the video regarding bypass is the most important and all filters have them. So, basically if the filter traps too much the pressure rises, the bypass kicks in and then there is no filtration.
I guess at the end of the day, it would be great to know the specific information regarding the stock filter rating and then base your selection on a filter that is comparable or slightly better.
It is up to the consumer to educate themselves on the micron rating, claims of micron rating in oil filters; I just stock and sell what the customer is asking for.
Randy - RPM
Randy, would you use one in one of your own engines?
Why or why not?
thanks
Quote from: racerrad8 on December 09, 2015, 01:13:25 PM
Quote from: Pat Conlon on December 09, 2015, 01:11:21 PM
Point taken Randy. I guess a screen is a filter...of sorts.
Excuse me, but it's getting windy here in the desert, and I've got to go close my patio sliding glass door...
....it seems that the screen door is not much in the way of a dust filter.
That just means you need a tighter mesh screen... :biggrin:
Randy - RPM
Or wrap it in gauze and spray it with oil.
(popcorn)
Quote from: Dads_FJ on December 09, 2015, 02:34:00 PM
Randy, would you use one in one of your own engines?
Why or why not?
thanks
Yes.
In fact we use inline screen type filters on our race cars depending on how the plumbing is run. If we run out of the secondary oil pump circuit of the oil pump, that is not a filtered oil. So, when we run out of that port, we run it trough an inline filter before it goes through a small cooler and the into the head for lubrication. We also use those types of filter on the race car because I can inspect them for early warning signs of major engine troubles.
Now before anyone asks why I do not use them on my motorcycles, it all boils down to cost for me. It would take fourteen plus (14+) oil changes before I see the benefits of using a filter I can wash out. Plus, since I regularly change the oil in my bikes there is usually not a lot of debris in the oil.
There are added benefits to the Flo oil filter, such as the cooling fins and built in internal magnet for those who are concerned about heat and collecting any metallic particles from the transmission.
Plus, there are the environmental aspects of washing out your filters instead of disposing of them. In California, all oil filters are supposed to be discarded properly as they are considered a hazardous material. I have to take all of my filters to my local Valvoline oil change quick lube and they will accept the filters. If an oil filter is found in your garbage at the transfer/sorting facility and they can source it back to someone you can be fined.
Randy - RPM
The way I look at it is:
Ok, I'll run a set of UniPods for convenience. We know that oem pleated paper air filters do a better job of filtering.
Properly serviced the UniPods do a good job, but are not the best. Fine, I'm ok with that.
My bike will ingest fine particles of silica dust (PM30) I know this. No getting around it. Welcome to the desert.
I know that thru the combustion cycle, a portion of these dust particles will end up in my oil.
Again, ok I'll run with the UniPods (and I do) but at least give me the best oil filtration available (along with regular oil changes)
Quote from: Pat Conlon on December 09, 2015, 03:34:44 PM
The way I look at it is:
Ok, I'll run a set of UniPods for convenience. We know that oem pleated paper air filters do a better job of filtering.
Properly serviced the UniPods do a good job, but are not the best. Fine, I'm ok with that.
My bike will ingest fine particles of silica dust (PM30) I know this. No getting around it. Welcome to the desert.
I know that thru the combustion cycle, a portion of these dust particles will end up in my oil.
Again, ok I'll run with the UniPods (and I do) but at least give me the best oil filtration available (along with regular oil changes)
Pat, Pat, Pat...There you go changing the subject...
I am not too sure the O.E. pleated air filter can do a much better job than the UNI pods have done on your carbs over the last four years, your carbs are basically spotless. You can see the little hue of dust particles forming just after the throttle plate, but that is nothing compared to the K&N filtered set attached below.
Pat's carbs
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc517/racerrad8/007_zpsmjkbh7a5.jpg~original) (http://s1215.photobucket.com/user/racerrad8/media/007_zpsmjkbh7a5.jpg.html)
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc517/racerrad8/008_zpsvfgtsy8i.jpg~original) (http://s1215.photobucket.com/user/racerrad8/media/008_zpsvfgtsy8i.jpg.html)
K&N Filtered on the bottom compared to a clean set.
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc517/racerrad8/RichardCarbs1107004.jpg~original) (http://s1215.photobucket.com/user/racerrad8/media/RichardCarbs1107004.jpg.html)
Randy - RPM
What???? Pleated paper filters are better than foam? I don't think so. Pat you sound like Noel now. Had this same discussion with Noel last year. Even K&N (one of the largest paper filter mfg's) admits that foam is better. On all their heavy equipment K&N recommends their "heavy duty" foam filters. "foam is a better filtering medium" is on their website. Dave
Yep, I think we all agree that the UniPods are better than the oil/paper combo used on the K&N's (both panel and pod K&N's)
I am happy with the Uni's..... As I am very happy with your spin on filter system. Both good and convenient. (yes I recycle used my oil and filters)
How about I muddy the waters more?
Now.... when I convert my 84's gravity feed (with the screen door petcock**) over to the fuel pump system so I can run a REAL fuel filter (pleated paper) I'll be happy.
** but the fuel screen is washable
Quote from: racerrad8 on December 09, 2015, 03:52:07 PM
Pat's carbs
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc517/racerrad8/007_zpsmjkbh7a5.jpg) (http://s1215.photobucket.com/user/racerrad8/media/007_zpsmjkbh7a5.jpg.html)
Good to see. I have not cleaned the Uni's in over 2,000 mikes.
See that sand on the body? Welcome to the desert.
Holy Toledo redux!
Whew... glad to see it is settled science....!
Uh oh.... :rofl:
I had Mike's on the mind.....that should read 2,000 miles.....carry on.....
Quote from: TexasDave on December 09, 2015, 04:00:34 PM
.... Pat you sound like Noel now.
Dave
"With age comes wisdom...." Oscar WildeNoel
Pat,
I am seriously considering converting my 84 to a pumper as well.now I know the bowl needles/ seats are different, but I'm sending them out to Randy anyway so I'll have him convert the carbs but other things to consider.
1) make my own harness or buy a late model harness to plug and play.
2) what to do with the fuel reserve circuit? Buy a late model fuel tank, and igniter box so the reserve function works? Or just say fuck it, no reserve feature required.
I'm painting the bike anyway so I'm thinking of putting a late model tank and harness on and paint it 84 colors.
Scott
Sorry Fred for the thread drift....kinda like talking around a campfire huh?
Hi Scotty, how have you been?
Definitely need a fuel pump controller: http://tinyurl.com/zuydbcg (http://tinyurl.com/zuydbcg)
Key on, runs for 3 seconds, stops (just like oem)...pump starts again when a tach signal is sensed. No tach signal, shuts off after 3 seconds. Easy peesey.
Simple wiring job. No harness needed. If you can do a headlight or coil relay, you can do this..
No more eBay cheap fuel pumps for me (oh but they have a lifetime warranty)....I've learned my lesson... I put one of the China pumps in a '93 I fixed up for Jason Lawson (Paul's son) the "oh but they have a lifetime warranty" did not help when it stopped working at the top of Sonora Pass (2015 WCR)
The new OEM Yamaha pumps (as good as they are) are crazy stupid expensive so the RPM pumps are the way to go... I should have listened. I was warned.
Set the petcock on prime. Plug off the now unneeded petcock vacuum port. Never have to worry about a leaking vacuum petcock ever again.
Pop in some new small fuel pump float needle seats and install a REAL fuel filter.
To quote my favorite Canuck; "Rust Never Sleeps" and like me, my fuel tank 'ain't getting any younger.
You can use a late model fuel tank and non vacuum petcock, sure. I'm gonna use my existing '84 fuel tank. I do appreciate the extra 1/2 gallon I can squeeze into my tank, although I do like the recessed fuel cap set up the later model tanks have. I may have to eventually go to a late model FJ tank because when my fuel cap lock breaks, I'm never gonna find another '84/85 fuel cap.
Lastly.....No reserve switch for me.
I have a gas gauge. I have a low fuel light. I have an odometer. I have GPS.
I don't need or want that silly reserve switch.
Cheers laddie. Still have that rear wheel?
Pat,
Thanks for the link on the controller. I wasn't aware of the extra 1/2 gallon in the 84 tank, that just might tip the scale on the keep the 84 tank decision. The tank is probably the best piece on my 84 so I'll keep it.
I'm with you on the fuel pump, I'll be getting all my parts from Randy, price irrelevant, his service, advice and warranty....priceless.
Fred, sorry for drifting the thread. Back to your regularly scheduled programming.
Scott
Quote from: racerrad8 on December 08, 2015, 06:21:14 PM
Fred,
I have, in stock an oil filter with built in cooling fins.
FLO Stainless Steel Oil Filter (http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=FLOSpinOn)
(http://rpmracingca.com/prodimages/large/FLOSpinOn-1.jpg)
Randy - RPM
I use the flo Stainless and love it, no landfill crud, has cooling potential and the magnet inside is just a plus that goes with the magnetic drain plug. you folks that are splitting hairs counting microns are just that, splitting hairs! Look at those early honda atc machines that just have a factory oil screen that gets cleaned every oil change, they took a pounding and lasted way longer than pojected life of engine provided the owner was normal and did regular proper intervals for oil changes, moral of this story is to change your oil. Sure the micron thing is good but how often does a study show up and cut these filters open and see whats really inside these puppies especially if they come from china. Hydrocarbons eat bearings, change your oil.