A year after I purchased the '89 1200, my FJ was smoking a lot on start up. After a lengthy amount of downtime. I got the head to RPM for a much needed rebuild, knowing the cylinders were not far behind needing freshened up with a ring job at minimum.
Now 2 1/2 years later the oil eating gremlins are back. On an all day 350 mile ride, consumption is about 1 quart... :ireful:
I have decided to go a similar route that George (movenon) did last winter. Tear the motor down and re ring the pistons. I discovered that I would be able to easily take the task a bit further. I have found a 1297cc overbore kit. New Pistons, Re-manufactured and re-sleeved cylinder block, and associated hardware. The sleeves are modified to be short, so no lower case modification is required. After the nightmare that unfolded with trying to get the head rebuilt locally, I dreaded buying a set of oversized pistons and relying on a local machine shop to bore/re-sleeve my cylinder block. Having spoken to a few people that have knowledge with what I am attempting. I have decided that this is going forward within the next few weeks.
After I was rear ended 18 months ago, and the FJ gods smiling on me and my scoot. Basically no plastic was effected. :yahoo: Afterwards, I realized how difficult it would have been had the main fairing or fuel tank been damaged. I began the hunt for a complete 2nd set of bodywork and fuel tank. Through a great member on this forum, I sourced a nearly pristine Theft Deterrent fuel tank. Setting up a FJ1200 follow search on eBay. After 18 months a nearly new Theft Deterrent main fairing and side scoops showed up. I could not let those pieces slip past.
The European Twist
After I had the black/gold '87 and the appreciation of the bike from fellow members. Plus I really liked the paint job.
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o145/aviationfred/1272176_10201287070132101_312381377_o_zpspqlosn7d.jpg) (http://s119.photobucket.com/user/aviationfred/media/1272176_10201287070132101_312381377_o_zpspqlosn7d.jpg.html)
I am going to do a slight variation. One of the 1986 European paint schemes has really caught my eye, and I am going to reproduce it on the spare body work. I will go with the Satin Black and the Black/Red/Silver graphics.
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o145/aviationfred/my-1987-fj1200-1_zpsftyr52sg.jpg) (http://s119.photobucket.com/user/aviationfred/media/my-1987-fj1200-1_zpsftyr52sg.jpg.html)
Fred
Dare to be different Fred! Every &%$#en motorcycle manufacturer offers bikes in flat black. Most of them cruisers. They all look like they were left in primer black to me. Your second picture shows a beautiful shiny gloss black FJ. Just my opinion--showing my age--rant over. :biggrin: Dave
Hey Fred that's what I'm doing on the Turbo. Already have the Euro stickers. But I went with all red, lettering and all. And I'm going to use the midnight blue. Only slightly more blue. I really liked your satin black one too. I've gotten the Turbo system ceramic coated in satin black. Just bought a 1450 block and pistons and cases. And ported head. If I can figure out how to drop the compression enough I'll use it all for the Turbo. If not I'll just use the ported head on the Turbo. And put the 1450 on the 89.
Sorry I just got carried away. Didn't mean to jack your thread.
I think the satin black is cool I almost went with it. But decided on the slightly bluer midnight blue.
Dave, the only reason the current generation bikes are offered in flat black is....
THEY ARE FUCKING UGLY MOTORCYCLES
....not so with our FJ's
I like Fred's idea. I think a blacked out FJ (satin black, not flat black) with red accents would look bad ass sinister.
IMHO I would not use the white Yamaha lettering on the side of the fairing....just carry the red stripe thru.
Good on you for refreshing the FJ Fred ! Sounds like fun (other than the cold). Keep the pictures coming (long winter) :).
George
Quote from: Pat Conlon on November 25, 2015, 10:51:12 PM
IMHO I would not use the white Yamaha lettering on the side of the fairing....just carry the red stripe thru.
I agree, White would be all wrong....
The YAMAHA on the fairing is actually Silver.
Fred
Shot of the graphics and some of the body work waiting for the dark side conversion
White lettering, silver lettering, no difference. I think it distracts from the lines of the bike. Again, just MHO.
I recall Leon winning a contest here on the FJ Forum where he found the word YAMAHA written in 14 different places on the exterior of the FJ (actually my '84) Exterior, meaning visible to the eye without removing parts.
Yes, that number is correct....14
I know Yamaha is proud of this bike but sheesh....
You are gonna love the torque of that 1300cc engine.
If you're going to use your oem CV36 Mikunis, let me know when you're ready, I have some suggestions for jetting I have found that works well on my 1350.
Cheers
Quote from: Pat Conlon on November 26, 2015, 12:21:31 AM
You are gonna love the torque of that 1300cc engine.
If you're going to use your oem CV36 Mikunis, let me know when you're ready, I have some suggestions for jetting I have found that works well on my 1350.
Cheers
Thank you for the offer.
Carbs are a wizardry that eludes me. In the 3 1/2 years that I have owned this FJ, I have never opened the carbs. I truly have no idea what the jetting is or even if it has adjustable needles installed. My plan at the moment is when I actually place the order for the big bore kit, I will send the carbs to RPM and have them rebuilt with a base setting for the added displacement, and the stainless screw kit.
Something else that I forgot to mention, when I start moving and I don't give it a lot of throttle, the engine makes a dieseling/pinging/rattle sound for a few seconds. clears up once the clutch is fully engaged and the rpms start climbing.
Fred
Sounds like starter chain rattle Fred, common thing with them and nothing to worry about, but an ideal time to replace along with the timing chain while the engine's in pieces.
Some of you may be aware I`ve stuffed up my knee and am restricted to a bed (rather uncomfortably) but am able to operate the computer to help with this "colour" question as I now have heaps of time on my hands to google sites for help.
http://www.empower-yourself-with-color-psychology.com/meaning-of-colors.html (http://www.empower-yourself-with-color-psychology.com/meaning-of-colors.html)
This one is quite spiritual and says "RED" is for Action while black means "secretive and unknown"
Also reckons Silver is for girls and white is for perfection and black means "secretive" (as in 1350 when the sign says 1200)
http://www.helpscout.net/blog/psychology-of-color/ (http://www.helpscout.net/blog/psychology-of-color/)
Marketing stuff...... note the colour that makes both men and women happy is "blue" !
http://www.colour-affects.co.uk/psychological-properties-of-colours (http://www.colour-affects.co.uk/psychological-properties-of-colours)
This one says red means physical courage while black means primarily "Sophisticated"
http://psychology.about.com/od/sensationandperception/a/colorpsych.htm (http://psychology.about.com/od/sensationandperception/a/colorpsych.htm)
This one is more factual cause it`s written by psychologists so must be right....
"More recently, researchers discovered that the colour red causes people to react with greater speed and force, something that might prove useful during athletic activities."
By now my knee is killing me despite sitting, so I`ve taken one more pain killer and seek my favourite colour by googling "what colour is bullshit" and discover...... it`s all of the above!
However I did discover why so many KTM riders are fat bastards (orange is for food), why Harvy scored so well with his missus, and why a particular Aussie spider is beautiful to me.
So Generally I`m with you Fred and I do like "FJ" more than "Yamaha" :drinks:
Here is a photo of the Big Bore kit that I will be getting.
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o145/aviationfred/s-l1600_zpszq23aacv.jpg) (http://s119.photobucket.com/user/aviationfred/media/s-l1600_zpszq23aacv.jpg.html)
Fred
I placed the order today...... :yahoo:
The cylinder kit is scheduled to arrive December 8th.
I went to Wiseco's web page this afternoon and looked at the piston kits offered for the FJ1100/1200. The kits that are currently offered, jump from 1250 to 1314. There was not a listing for the 1297 kit that I ordered. I started to get a bit concerned. Could this be a one of a kind special order? A customer special ordered this size and then backed out?....I was thinking....What if I need a head gasket in the future?? So I called Andrews Motorsports this afternoon.
I found out some interesting things. The 1297cc pistons are a custom order size just for Andrews Motorsports. They market the pistons mostly to European race car drivers. There is a class that allows up to 1300cc air cooled motors. The pistons are high performance and lighter weight than normal Wiseco pistons. The sleeves are custom and are designed to slide into the lower case without modification. These kits also come in 1250cc size.
Fred
Take some pictures of those pistons when they arrive Fred....love to see what they look like.
I'm calling you now...
The cylinder block and pistons arrived today. :yahoo: They are absolutely beautiful. :good2:
Very nice Fred!
Jealous of the upgrade. :good:
Looking good. :good2:
Hey Fred what's the cr on those pistons?
Fred, you better check that.... Are you planning headwork?
Randy had to shave the crown to get the Hank Scott 82mm pistons down to 10.5-1 (along with adding volume to the squish area)
Remember: bigger pistons = move volume into the same squish area = higher compression
Good eye Dan!
Quote from: Pat Conlon on December 09, 2015, 01:18:39 AM
Fred, you better check that.... Are you planning headwork?
Randy had to shave the crown to get the Hank Scott 82mm pistons down to 10.5-1 (along with adding volume to the squish area)
Remember: bigger pistons = move volume into the same squish area = higher compression
Good eye Dan!
At this time, I am not planning on doing any work to the head. It was rebuilt 2 1/2 years ago. I do plan to check clearances very well before the bike gets fired up.
I pulled this from the sale add for the kit. custom WISECO Pro Lite slipper skirt gas ported 1297cc (10.25-1 Compression) Piston Kit
Fred, I also have the Wiseco Pro Lite pistons, curious, what is the measurement of the crown? (from deck to peak)
The valve pockets do look bigger on your pistons than on mine. Probably where the added volume is coming from.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/1/49_28_10_10_6_31_04.jpeg)
Amazing that these 82mm Pro Lite pistons weigh the same as the 74mm stockers
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/1/49_13_02_11_11_40_19.jpeg)
Hey Fred talked to Andrew's today. Trying to find Turbo pistons for the 1380 block I bought. He said busa pistons are usable.. Otherwise I would have to go through Ross to get custom made dished Turbo pistons.(he said he had to order 30 sets to get those custom made by wisco ) I found busa 83mm Turbo pistons for $429 pins clips and rings included. Have to, some how make sure they will work. But that's probably the way I'll have to go. He said he could machine the pistons down for the 1450 block. So I can get the compression down to pump gas levels.
Hopefully I can get it done by June. Depending on finances.
Dan,
Funny you mentioned running Busa Pistons in an FJ.I was just reading an article in the November Cycle World.
There is an article in the service Q&A section where a guy asked if he could use a modern lighter piston from a newer water cooled bike in an older air cooled motor. The experts reply was that it is done frequently with poor results. The Pistons in an aircooled motor have thicker domes and longer skirts to achieve more surface area contact for heat transfer. They will run like a raped ape for a while but prematurely succumb to failure.
I don't know this to be fact, just something to think about.
Scott
Thanks for the heads up Scott. I'll have to check on that. Fred's and Pat's Pro lites. Look like they have almost no skirt.
Dan,
Not everything in print is correct, Andrews has built a lot of engines and So I would defer to his recommendation.just felt compelled to pass it on as I just read that article yesterday.
Scott
I started to tear the bike down for the engine removal.
Wow, exciting times Fred
Working on getting decals made.....
Looks good Fred. Who is making the stickers for you... Debating whether to make fj 1380t or just leave it FJ1200t. If I can get Turbo pistons for the 1380 block.
Quote from: giantkiller on December 14, 2015, 10:43:40 AM
Who is making the stickers for you...
Hi Dan,
The same person who did yours.... Jeff0308 in Australia
Fred
That's what I thought. He does a great job. I had mine clear coated. The stock ones were clear coated on the 86. Don't know if they all are. He used some different material than he was using. To make sure it would work for clear coating. Worked great.
Your going to love the extra torque. Kookaloo!!!
Might consider smoothing those sharp edges on the piston crown -
(http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t317/UJMsRule/TRX450ER_06_Piston.gif)
Looking forward to following your progress and hearing the results.
What are your plans for jetting?
I can wait.... patiently.... possibly.....
Quote from: FJ1200W on December 15, 2015, 01:18:15 PM
What are your plans for jetting?
I can wait.... patiently.... possibly.....
I had considered doing the jetting myself and I have received some figures on sizing and adjustments. :good:
After careful consideration and the amount of dollars already spent on this project. I will be sending the carbs out and having them professionally done.
Fred
Jason, came over this evening and it took us about an hour and we got the engine removed. Let the teardown begin... :yahoo:
I felt motivated and did the teardown....
Fred,
What does the bore look like? The pistons don't look too bad in the pics.
I realize the lure of the BigBlock you'll be riding soon, but you could probably have refreshed the engine with a set of rings, a hone, and some new valve stem guides. Plus the requisite gaskets, chains, and maybe guides.
In fact, if the bore is clean you may just find someone who wants/needs a used cylinder and piston set, like the one you're replacing.
Quote from: Arnie on December 16, 2015, 09:01:00 AM
Fred,
What does the bore look like? The pistons don't look too bad in the pics.
I realize the lure of the BigBlock you'll be riding soon, but you could probably have refreshed the engine with a set of rings, a hone, and some new valve stem guides. Plus the requisite gaskets, chains, and maybe guides.
In fact, if the bore is clean you may just find someone who wants/needs a used cylinder and piston set, like the one you're replacing.
But, where's the fun in that? :pardon:
That's interesting, are all the FJ1200 pistons gas ported?
Didn't have those holes on my '84's pistons.
Quote from: Pat Conlon on December 16, 2015, 12:08:04 PM
That's interesting, are all the FJ1200 pistons gas ported?
Didn't have those holes on my '84's pistons.
Possible aftermarket pistons..... I will measure them this evening.
I honestly can't say..... Maybe Randy can weigh in on this question, or George, he re-ringed his engine this time last year.
Quote from: Pat Conlon on December 16, 2015, 12:08:04 PM
That's interesting, are all the FJ1200 pistons gas ported?
Didn't have those holes on my '84's pistons.
Gas ported?
Are you referring to the oil "drain" holes under the oil ring?
Randy - RPM
Oil drains? Ok, yep, I haven't seen those on FJ pistons before
I measured the pistons.....
Old pistons-77mm
New Pistons-80.5mm
Both the old and new pistons have the holes
Quote from: Pat Conlon on December 16, 2015, 03:48:14 PM
Oil drains? Ok, yep, I haven't seen those on FJ pistons before
Yes, as the oil ring scrapes the cylinder wall it allows the oil to flow through the holes and back to the crankcase instead of pooling under the ring.
Randy
Quote from: aviationfred on December 16, 2015, 06:46:58 PM
I measured the pistons.....
Old pistons-77mm
New Pistons-80.5mm
Both the old and new pistons have the holes
Those new pistons look shorter - that will reduce the stroke!
:shout:
Anyone fall for it?
Quote from: FJ1200W on December 16, 2015, 10:28:24 PM
Those new pistons look shorter - that will reduce the stroke!
[/quote]
The stroke will be the same.....The skirt has been shortened, making a lighter piston to reduce reciprocating mass.
3mm larger diameter with less weight than the OEM piston.
Fred
Speaking of pistons... I just read this in the Nov/15 issue of Cycle World. Don't know if it is relevant to any of the FJ projects on the site but interesting nonetheless - to a hamfisted backyard basher like me anyways.
http://www.cycleworld.com/2015/10/14/ask-kevin-modern-piston-on-older-four-stroke-motorcycle-engines/ (http://www.cycleworld.com/2015/10/14/ask-kevin-modern-piston-on-older-four-stroke-motorcycle-engines/)
Hmmm, I know someone with less cash than Fred who is probably going to need a good cylinder block with smooth bores and matching pistons. Er, it's me. Will the standard FJ1200 cylinder block bolt up as a replacement for a smoking FJ1100 motor? Is this the only difference between the FJ1100 and FJ1200 motors?
If the answers to my questions are "yes", then I'm wondering if you're looking to sell, Fred? I live in Australia, so freight could be an issue I guess.
Cheers,
Nathan
Nathan, what are your (warm) compression numbers?
Perhaps you just need new valve seals. With a bike taken out of storage, you will want to ride it for awhile.
The smoke just might clear up with some active riding.
Thanks Pat,
We didn't do a compression test when the tank was off. I'll have to get back to you on that. I'm very aware that because it has failed to start on me a number of times, I've only done 250km on the bike since bringing it out of storage. Someone suggested a few second gear runs up to redline and then shut the throttle no brakes, two or three times along a deserted stretch of "track". Because the carbs are gunked up, it doesn't like revving past 5000rpm easily and I ran out of track winding it near redline.
I'm not going to panic about the smoke yet.
Mine was in storage for about 11yeears only had 10,000 miles on it It smoked real bad for a while. And then went away. Had to clean the carbs multiple times. Mine had a full tank when put away. But was almost empty when I picked it up. Cleaned the tank several times. But still kept getting junk in the carbs. Still cleaning the carbs once in awhile. There are alot of little nooks and crannies in the tank. And every once in awhile something works loose. That's why I'm going to convert to a fuel pump so I can run a filter.
Quote from: nchattaway on December 19, 2015, 12:32:17 AM
Hmmm, I know someone with less cash than Fred who is probably going to need a good cylinder block with smooth bores and matching pistons. Er, it's me. Will the standard FJ1200 cylinder block bolt up as a replacement for a smoking FJ1100 motor? Is this the only difference between the FJ1100 and FJ1200 motors?
If the answers to my questions are "yes", then I'm wondering if you're looking to sell, Fred? I live in Australia, so freight could be an issue I guess.
Cheers,
Nathan
G'day Nathan, the answer to your question is yes. The 1200 block and pistons will bolt straight to the 1100 bottom end. Exhaust, carbs and head are also a direct bolt-on to the the 1200 block. With a little bit of work it will stay with a ZZR so putting some work into it will be worthwhile.
Regards, Pete. :good2:
Quote from: nchattaway on December 19, 2015, 12:32:17 AM
If the answers to my questions are "yes", then I'm wondering if you're looking to sell, Fred? I live in Australia, so freight could be an issue I guess.
Cheers,
Nathan
Nathan,
While running, the engine had plenty of power, the issue was oil consumption. A good number of members saw this bike in June at the Black Hills Rally, and can verify that it ran well, but had a definite oily exhaust smell.
I did mark the pistons as I removed them. The cylinder sleeves look to be in good shape. I would say, a very light honing of the cylinders and new rings would bring back a strong motor.
I can box up the cylinder block and pistons to get a shipping cost to Australia.
Fred
Fred, I had an oil burning issue with a late model 1200 cylinder block. I installed new rings (after honing) and a set of valve stem seals but did not fix the problem. I sent the block to a machine shop, to get rebored and was later informed that the bores were out of round. I remember reading about Yamaha cutting costs back in the early '90s and were pressing the sleeves into the blocks and not reboring. Not sure how factual this is but it would account for the bores being oval. A measure of your bores might shed some light on your oil burning woes.
Regards, Pete.
Nathan, if you are considering investing money into barrels you hope to use without a re-bore, it would be prudent to have them measured first.
Ovality and taper are normal wear characteristics but it needs to be determined if they are still within serviceable limits, needing only a hone. The measuring should be done by someone who not only knows how to measure, but knows how to interpret the readings. A local automotive machine shop would probably do this for free (if they thought they might get work our of it) or for a nominal fee.
It would be a wise investment before committing to freight and/or purchase costs.
Noel
Thanks Noel,
That is good advice, but I'm not sure how I'd go about that from Australia when Fred has the parts in the US. I don't want to hijack Fred's project writeup, so will take this into PM land.
Received the slotted cam sprockets today..... Now it's time to get things in motion to put the motor back together.
Quote from: aviationfred on December 23, 2015, 08:33:23 PM
Received the slotted cam sprockets today..... Now it's time to get things in motion to put the motor back together.
Fred,
Look at the teeth very closely. We had some trouble with tooth wear on some of the unbranded gears like those in your photo.
If they were stamped Falicon or APE then you are for sure good to go.
APE quit making them and as far as I know Falicon is the only factory manufactured sprocket on the market that I am aware of.
Randy - RPM
Randy,
Thank you for the heads up on the sprockets. I did not get this set off of eBay. I got them from Bob Weymouth, he listed that he was selling some spare FJ parts.
Fred
Quote from: ribbert on December 19, 2015, 05:41:16 PM
Nathan, if you are considering investing money into barrels you hope to use without a re-bore, it would be prudent to have them measured first.
Ovality and taper are normal wear characteristics but it needs to be determined if they are still within serviceable limits, needing only a hone. The measuring should be done by someone who not only knows how to measure, but knows how to interpret the readings. A local automotive machine shop would probably do this for free (if they thought they might get work our of it) or for a nominal fee.
It would be a wise investment before committing to freight and/or purchase costs.
Noel
I did some measuring of the cylinder bores and they are all pretty true.
Tools used to measure with.
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o145/aviationfred/WP_20151224_001_zps2ud3umha.jpg) (http://s119.photobucket.com/user/aviationfred/media/WP_20151224_001_zps2ud3umha.jpg.html)
Fred
Quote from: aviationfred on December 24, 2015, 03:19:48 PM
Randy,
Thank you for the heads up on the sprockets. I did not get this set off of eBay. I got them from Bob Weymouth, he listed that he was selling some spare FJ parts.
Fred
Good deal, if Bob Looked at them you are probably okay, but it is still worth a look to make sure.
Randy - RPM
The carbs have been sent to RPM for a total rebuild and set up for the displacement increase. I had an idea to see if the ultrasonic cleaner would do a good job on the braided oil lines from the RPM oil cooler.
I used a 50/50 mix of water and Simple Green.
Here are the results.
***Update***
I am being thorough with getting the engine clean inside and out before getting things buttoned up.
When I removed the Oil pump screen, this was wedged in it. There was another piece that was in there also. my guess is that it came from the forward cam chain tensioner slide. When the head was rebuilt 2 1/2 years ago the forward slide was replaced. I believe this is from the old slide.
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o145/aviationfred/WP_20160101_007_zps9bebqxqn.jpg) (http://s119.photobucket.com/user/aviationfred/media/WP_20160101_007_zps9bebqxqn.jpg.html)
I can't remember how long ago I installed this, but for $10.00 I figured it couldn't hurt and might help with keeping fine metal particles out of the engine. The magnetic washer that RPM sells for the oil filter does work. In the photos, both sides are covered with extremely fine fuzz. The last photo is cleaned. http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=OFM&cat=39 (http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=OFM&cat=39)
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o145/aviationfred/WP_20160101_002_zps80m5ubzc.jpg) (http://s119.photobucket.com/user/aviationfred/media/WP_20160101_002_zps80m5ubzc.jpg.html)
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o145/aviationfred/WP_20160101_001_zps5z0ntbdu.jpg) (http://s119.photobucket.com/user/aviationfred/media/WP_20160101_001_zps5z0ntbdu.jpg.html)
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o145/aviationfred/WP_20160101_003_zpsx7wijnwo.jpg) (http://s119.photobucket.com/user/aviationfred/media/WP_20160101_003_zpsx7wijnwo.jpg.html)
Getting the pistons installed
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o145/aviationfred/WP_20160101_005_zpscqvd44ug.jpg) (http://s119.photobucket.com/user/aviationfred/media/WP_20160101_005_zpscqvd44ug.jpg.html)
The wrist pins slide in fairly easy, getting the wire clips installed is a Pain In The Ass. :ireful:
All four pistons installed.
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o145/aviationfred/WP_20160101_006_zpsotfzmmli.jpg) (http://s119.photobucket.com/user/aviationfred/media/WP_20160101_006_zpsotfzmmli.jpg.html)
Fred
The new decals have been made and are on their way to me.
A productive day..... Cylinder block and head installed this evening. :yahoo:
Wow! Fred, that's looking fantastic! Are you going to paint the whole engine black and machine off the edges of the cooling fins for a factory look?
Be sure to put some dyno runs up when it's all back together.
Quote from: nchattaway on January 11, 2016, 06:32:48 AM
Wow! Fred, that's looking fantastic! Are you going to paint the whole engine black and machine off the edges of the cooling fins for a factory look?
Be sure to put some dyno runs up when it's all back together.
The head will stay un painted. Once everything is together. The lower cases will be painted. The cylinder block hase been painted and the fins on the side have no paint like OEM.
Fred
A few more days and the engine will be installed. Waiting on the RPM shim kit and carburetors from RPM.
The new decals arrived today. :yahoo: Not quite a perfect color match, but I am still happy with how they turned out. A big thank you goes out to Jeff Shaw (Jeff0308).
I spent the day installing the cams and getting them timed. I found how much of a pain in the a** the cam chain tensioner install is. :dash2:
Continued on with putting the oil pan and clutch cover on.
Here is a Public service announcement...... For ALL members here that are not original owners. During your next oil and filter chain. Remove the oil pan, and remove the oil pump screen. Clean the screen. I found a good bit of stuff hidden in the screen cavity.
Fred
Quote from: aviationfred on January 23, 2016, 07:43:38 PM
I spent the day installing the cams and getting them timed. I found how much of a pain in the a** the cam chain tensioner install is. :dash2:
Continued on with putting the oil pan and clutch cover on.
Here is a Public service announcement...... For ALL members here that are not original owners. During your next oil and filter chain. Remove the oil pan, and remove the oil pump screen. Clean the screen. I found a good bit of stuff hidden in the screen cavity.
Fred
This was my oil pickup when I disassembled my FJ100. The debris was so excessive the screen was sucked in rendering it useless. Probable cause was the previous owner left the crankcase vent open with no filter.
The engine is now complete, :yahoo: minus one part that should be here tomorrow. I plan one giving the paint a few days to cure before it gets installed into the frame. I am getting stoked to get this thing broke in and then really get into the kookaloo zone.
Very very nice.
Quote from: aviationfred on January 24, 2016, 04:38:28 PM
The engine is now complete....
Fred, now that you're almost there, how about posting your proposed running in procedure and the reasons why.
This is a genuinely interesting subject and I promise I'll stay out of it.
Noel
Quote from: ribbert on January 25, 2016, 04:52:02 AM
Quote from: aviationfred on January 24, 2016, 04:38:28 PM
The engine is now complete....
how about posting your proposed running in procedure and the reasons why.
This is a genuinely interesting subject and I promise I'll stay out of it.
Noel
From my knowledge of Manufacturers recommendations on new bikes, Randy's at RPM and reading a number of methods on the web. Here is my plan to break this engine in.
I will start by using a top of the line 'Break-in' oil the 10W30 viscosity grade* and run the engine for 500 miles with a few (less than 6) hard acceleration runs after an initial 150 miles. Drain the oil and change the filter. Now repeat the same procedure still using the Break-in motor oil in the engine and run the engine 500 miles, avoiding long periods of constant high speed operation like traveling long distance on an interstate highway. Now drain the oil, change the oil filter and change this time to Dino 10W40 motor oil**. With the Dino oil, I will run 1000 miles at normal riding conditions. Normal city riding, 10 to 15 miles at a time freeway runs, (70-80mph). 20 to 30 mile country road runs, (55 to 65mph). After there is 2000 miles on the engine I will drain the oil change the filter. At this point I will go to a full synthetic and the engine is now ready for the full Kookaloo
* Break-in oil is used because it does not have friction modifiers added and is high in Zinc and Phosphorous. It helps to create the proper wear for ring seating and helps to suspend fine metal particals to be filtered out.
** Dino oil is used to maintain the fresh ring seal over the 1000 miles of use.
Fred
Quote from: ribbert on January 25, 2016, 04:52:02 AM
Quote from: aviationfred on January 24, 2016, 04:38:28 PM
The engine is now complete....
Fred, now that you're almost there, how about posting your proposed running in procedure and the reasons why.
This is a genuinely interesting subject and I promise I'll stay out of it.
Noel
And what oil you plan on using ... :rofl:
Quote from: fj1289 on January 25, 2016, 09:35:28 AM
Quote from: ribbert on January 25, 2016, 04:52:02 AM
Quote from: aviationfred on January 24, 2016, 04:38:28 PM
The engine is now complete....
Fred, now that you're almost there, how about posting your proposed running in procedure and the reasons why.
This is a genuinely interesting subject and I promise I'll stay out of it.
Noel
And what oil you plan on using ... :rofl:
I know everyone has there favorite brand. Rotella, Amsoil, Lucas, Mobil 1, Valvoline, etc. etc. :flag_of_truce:
For the Break-in oil, I will be using Royal Purple 10W30 Break-in oil. For the Dino Oil, I will be using Valvoline 10W40. For the synthetic, I will be using Royal Purple Max Cycle 10W40.
Fred
Re: Break in and ring seating:
The Ross Piston folks specify a couple of interesting things:
1) Before final assembly: Wash (scrub) the pistons and cylinder walls with hot water and soap.
2) Immediately brush on a Non Detergent oil and continue to use a non detergent oil until the rings have seated.
http://www.rosspistons.com/information/automotive_installation.pdf (http://www.rosspistons.com/information/automotive_installation.pdf)
I did something very similar to Randy's suggestion after I rebuilt my engine. I started out with Rotella, changed the oil twice in about 800 miles, now I have Mobil 1 motorcycle oil in it. I was getting very concerned because the engine would get so dam hot every time I rode it > like wanting to stall at idle hot! I took it on an extended 325 road trip during the summer and now it's doing much better. I surmise everything is getting seated and friction is decreasing.
I installed a Wiseco 1188 kit in a new XJR1200 cylinder block. I don't recall what the ring end gap was but I did not having to adjust it any at all, everything was right on. I used the phenolic piston pin buttons instead of the circlips provided by Wiseco.
Without wanting to hijack Fred's engine rebuild, I note the switch to fully synthetic oil after the first 2000 miles. Would you recommend I switch my bike over to fully synthetic after 68,000km on unknown bike oil? I'm running a mineral motorcycle oil at present, not wanting to introduce any clutch slippage (it doesn't slip at all presently).
Quote from: nchattaway on January 26, 2016, 01:40:12 AM
Without wanting to hijack Fred's engine rebuild, I note the switch to fully synthetic oil after the first 2000 miles. Would you recommend I switch my bike over to fully synthetic after 68,000km on unknown bike oil? I'm running a mineral motorcycle oil at present, not wanting to introduce any clutch slippage (it doesn't slip at all presently).
(popcorn)
Quote from: nchattaway on January 26, 2016, 01:40:12 AM
Without wanting to hijack Fred's engine rebuild, I note the switch to fully synthetic oil after the first 2000 miles. Would you recommend I switch my bike over to fully synthetic after 68,000km on unknown bike oil? I'm running a mineral motorcycle oil at present, not wanting to introduce any clutch slippage (it doesn't slip at all presently).
The key is to use motorcycle specific oil. Changing over to a full synthetic should not cause any issues with your clutch.
Fred
Back to the build...... :dance2:
The engine is installed...... Starting to look like an FJ again. A phone call to Randy after about an hour of fighting the engine did the trick. Carburetors and throttle cables installed. Pods are on. Tomorrow is the day for first start up. First thing is to get all of the engine mounts torqued, install the Oil cooler lines, and exhaust, then the fun begins.
Call me tomorrow before you try and fire it up.
Randy - RPM
Quote from: racerrad8 on January 26, 2016, 11:58:53 PM
Call me tomorrow before you try and fire it up.
Randy - RPM
Once I finish up getting everything installed, I will give you a call.
Fred
Fred -- some good shots there --- I just had a thought on the clear case ---- what about etching Yamaha on the case mimicking where it would normally be on the standard cover.
Ya --- thats what its missing .....
Quote from: aviationfred on January 26, 2016, 10:36:02 AM
The key is to use motorcycle specific oil. Changing over to a full synthetic should not cause any issues with your clutch.
Fred
I ended up with more than a case of Yamaha 20W-50 (15W-50?) Semi-Synthetic oil and for whatever reason, may of been timing, the clutch started slipping.
Since went back to 10W-40 "normal" oil - but not been able to fully test again......
Enjoying your write up, well done, may it run well!
Exciting times Fred
The Silver Bullet is alive once again. :yahoo: :dance: :dance: :dance2:
First start
https://youtu.be/6gGS97BPE0w
Second start
https://youtu.be/AEW8sKQx1T4
Fred
Sounds great, especially through Randys exhaust :)
Quote from: aviationfred on January 27, 2016, 11:27:13 PM
The Silver Bullet is alive once again. :yahoo: :dance: :dance: :dance2:
Fred
Well done Fred, sounds great, now get it out on the road and give it curry. No point having all that extra grunt if you don't use it.
Noel
Quote from: aviationfred on January 26, 2016, 10:36:02 AM
Changing over to a full synthetic should not cause any issues with your clutch.
Fred
Fred, this may not have been your experience but I think there is more than enough people here who have experienced (and posted) clutch slip as an immediate result of changing to synthetic, myself included, to be wary of making such sweeping claims.
It is the sole reason many have gone to double clutch springs.
There are also many who never ride their bikes hard enough to make it slip and plenty who can't identify slip when it happens.
Noel
Have to agree with Noel. I went to full synthetic and experienced no clutch slip(stock) with my low mileage 84. When I went to a coil spring clutch I mic'd all the clutch discs and they were like new. Changed to coils to prevent any clutch slippage in the future as the discs wear. Someone with a high mileage stock clutch might experience slippage with full synthetic oil. Dave
Mine slipped. Then went to coils on the 1350 standard springs. Rotella t6 no slippage.
89 double springs t6 no slippage. 86 when it had 10000 miles on it stock clutch, yamalube. Slippage. Couldn't power up the front end in 1st. Gear. Changed to barnett coils.
Kookaloo...
I am neither going to agree, or disagree with anyone's claims on clutch slippage being related to synthetic oil usage.(we've all heard claims from both sides)
I'll simply add my own experience.
I have a "High Mileage" stock clutch. It was high mileage when I purchased the FJ from the original owner.
After about 2 weeks of ownership, before I went on my first longer (out of town) ride, I took the clutch apart and measured all the steels and frictions. All were in spec.
I changed the oil at that time to full-synthetic, and have used exclusively full-synthetic oil ever since.(I have no idea what the PO used for oil)
I ride her pretty darn hard on occasion, probably as hard as anybody could, and I have never experienced any amount of clutch slippage.
I've never felt any while riding 2-up either.
She has over 131,000 miles (211,000 kilometers) on her, and still no clutch slippage.
I give her the beans..................and she goes! :yahoo:
I have used synthetic oil for years and never had any clutch issue that wasn't solved with a fresh fiber pack. have the coil spring set up. If I experience slippage, RPM has stiffer springs available that I would try.
Fred
The new FJ1300 is now road worthy...... Out getting a few miles in on the nice 60* evening. :dance:
Throttle response is incredible. First impressions are that the carbs are perfect. I can't wait to get the miles in so it can be flogged. :yahoo:
Fred
it must be a great feeling to see all that hard work pay off --- enjoy
Way to go Fred :good2:
What settings do you have on the carbs?
Quote from: Pat Conlon on January 28, 2016, 07:06:28 PM
Way to go Fred :good2:
What settings do you have on the carbs?
The numbers are as follows.
122.5
40
155
With adjustable needles. I am not sure what position Randy used. Or the air/fuel mixture screw settings. The only adjustment that j have had to make was the idle knob.
I did 10 miles this evening and I can not believe that this is the same bike. I think alot of the improvement is the carbs. My old carbs were really worn out and had a tear in one of the diaphragms. There is no more popping from the exhaust when the throttle is closed. The engine itself is extremely quiet as much as a FJ could be. Smooth, I can not explain how velvety smooth this thing is. Virtually no vibrations at all.
I have to give a huge thumbs up for those that have assisted in this build. :good:
First and foremost, Randy @RPM, over a number of phone conversations he always had the answers to my questions. I have to give RPM and Robert their own praise. Just knowing that we as FJ owners have a model specific parts distributor is beyond words. Pat Conlon with the moral support and sharing my enthusiasm for this project. George (movenon) and Kurt (Yamaha_fj_rider) for tips and support throughout the build. Finally to Andrews Motorsports for supplying the big bore kit. This is truly a plug and play kit. I am 100% positive that the majority of our members could do this with any of the 3 displacement options. 1095cc, 1250cc or 1297cc.
Now the European twist is to come. I am hoping what i have in mind and planned is as stunning as I envision. Updates will follow.
Fred
So is the European twist an espresso machine in the panniers? and Coffee grinder? Pizza oven in the other side and German beer hall in the top box. :drinks:
Mark
Quote from: Urban_Legend on January 28, 2016, 10:18:29 PM
So is the European twist an espresso machine in the panniers? and Coffee grinder? Pizza oven in the other side and German beer hall in the top box. :drinks:
Mark
This is European graphics kit that will be applied to another set of bodywork with a twist in the paint. It should be stunning.
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o145/aviationfred/s-1l5010_zpsc5guxn2f.jpg) (http://s119.photobucket.com/user/aviationfred/media/s-1l5010_zpsc5guxn2f.jpg.html)
** I have already had new 1300 decals made for this decal set.
Fred
Quote from: aviationfred on January 28, 2016, 08:03:33 PM
I think alot of the improvement is the carbs. My old carbs were really worn out and had a tear in one of the diaphragms. There is no more popping from the exhaust when the throttle is closed. The engine itself is extremely quiet as much as a FJ could be. Smooth, I can not explain how velvety smooth this thing is. Virtually no vibrations at all.
Fred
Yep, nothing like a set of well sorted carbs to smooth out an engine.
Fred, glad to hear the early indicators are positive.
There is a level of satisfaction that no cheque book can buy, the engine you built yourself. Listening to that lump purring down the road with images fresh in your mind of all those bits and pieces you put together to create that sweet running engine has no equal! The enjoyment you will get from it cannot be matched by installing a 3rd party built motor.
I have been building engines all my life and I still get a buzz from it.
I look forward to ride feedback once it is run in.
Fred, I say this in good humour, without malice and in no way detracting from the sentiment expressed, but your "thankyou" post reads like a draft for an "Oscar" acceptance speech, it made me laugh.
(or maybe I'm about to become unstuck, yet again, with the humour gap)
I have to give a huge thumbs up for those that have assisted in this build. :good:
First and foremost, Randy @RPM, over a number of phone conversations he always had the answers to my questions. I have to give RPM and Robert their own praise. Just knowing that we as FJ owners have a model specific parts distributor is beyond words. Pat Conlon with the moral support and sharing my enthusiasm for this project. George (movenon) and Kurt (Yamaha_fj_rider) for tips and support throughout the build. Finally to Andrews Motorsports for supplying the big bore kit. This is truly a plug and play kit.Noel
Well done Fred!
I had to chuckle when, as you poured a fresh 3.35L of fully synthetic down the maw of FJ1300 twisty beast, you quipped: "I've never had any clutch issues that couldn't be fixed with a fresh set of fibers....and stiffer springs..." (paraphrasing)
What other kinds of friction-modified oil induced clutch issues would there be?
Personally, I like the thought of hitting 200,000km on the original clutch having only run mineral oil. But I also like the thought of building a big bore motor with a new clutch and transmission and carbs every few years!
Hurry up and get the alternative bodywork finished so we can see what you're cooking up.
Quote from: nchattaway on January 29, 2016, 05:22:21 AM
I had to chuckle when, as you poured a fresh 3.35L of fully synthetic down the maw of FJ1300 twisty beast, you quipped: "I've never had any clutch issues that couldn't be fixed with a fresh set of fibers....and stiffer springs..." (paraphrasing)
Haha, I picked up on that too , but I thought better of pointing it out (I have a bit of clutch history here), but seeing as you ........
Noel
Nicely done Fred! :hi:
Quote from: aviationfred on November 25, 2015, 09:14:27 PM
I am going to do a slight variation. One of the 1986 European paint schemes has really caught my eye, and I am going to reproduce it on the spare body work. I will go with the Satin Black and the Black/Red/Silver graphics.
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o145/aviationfred/my-1987-fj1200-1_zpsftyr52sg.jpg) (http://s119.photobucket.com/user/aviationfred/media/my-1987-fj1200-1_zpsftyr52sg.jpg.html)
Fred
This is what I originally decided to do. I have since changed it a bit. I will be using the same graphics set, but the paint will NOT be black.
The first step of the 2nd part of my project. The lower cowling got painted tonight.
Fred
In fact, the paint is not black. Its a very dark blue. Here my friend Edu bike
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m589/fj1200alf/EduFJ_zpsbaiykxc3.jpg) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/fj1200alf/media/EduFJ_zpsbaiykxc3.jpg.html)
That's exactly what I'm doing to the Turbo bike. Only the next shade of more blue. Same graphics.
I played hooky from work today. The weather is forecasted to get wet and cold over the next few days.
Temps today were in the lower 50's and sunny. A nice leisurely 100 mile ride now puts the total mileage close to 200. Everything is running perfectly. No leaks or drips, the oil level has stayed the same. The oil temp stayed at 185*F. By this next weekend the weather will be back in the 50's and a second tank of fuel can be used.
A view of winter in Kansas.
Is that a Cheshire cat in the tree or am I imagining Fred beaming with pleasure about his "new" FJ..... :rofl2:
Harvy
I got some more miles in today. Stopped at one of the aircraft plants for a photo op...
Beautiful photo Fred. Dave
I have the main fairing painted and half striped. Mocked up the fairing to see how it looked.
Satin White with European Graphics.....
Oohh, I have a stirring in my loins.... :good2:
Fred, you need clear turn signal lenses to stealth them out.
Quote from: FJmonkey on February 12, 2016, 08:08:26 PM
Fred, you need clear turn signal lenses to stealth them out.
:rofl2: With the White being the only color of paint, the smoke front lenses, taillight and rear signal lenses a meant to offer some contrast. The clear lenses and clear RPM taillight will stay with the OEM body work.
I still have the spare set of clear front lenses.... :praising:
Fred
Quote from: aviationfred on February 12, 2016, 08:23:56 PM
Quote from: FJmonkey on February 12, 2016, 08:08:26 PM
Fred, you need clear turn signal lenses to stealth them out.
:rofl2: With the White being the only color of paint, the smoke front lenses, taillight and rear signal lenses a meant to offer some contrast. The clear lenses and clear RPM taillight will stay with the OEM body work.
I still have the spare set of clear front lenses.... :praising:
Fred
Still looks like crap!!! Sure you don't want to swap?
For curiosity sake I put a clear lens on... :nea:...sorry Mark, I like the smoke lens better.
Damn! My ploy did not work. Maybe the clear will work for my '89...
CanDman's '89 Snowy is what gave me the idea to go all white.
Yah Fred white looks awesome.... Craap now I'm going to want to do a 4th fj. In white....
Must resist :wacko1:
Quote from: aviationfred on February 12, 2016, 09:05:53 PM
CanDman's '89 Snowy is what gave me the idea to go all white.
That only works with a polished nitrous bottle mounted on the back though! :rofl:
The last piece of bodywork is now being worked. Tomorrow all of the newly painted and striped bodywork should be finished and put on the bike.
This project has now wrapped up. The only thing left is to install the smoked tail light and smoked rear signals. I am still waiting on a bracket.
Here is the European Twist completed.
The OEM bodywork will be going into storage for safe keeping.
Fred
Looks good but you need to paint the hugger
To jump back a few weeks when I installed the engine. The braided oil lines for the RPM oil cooler each had a spot where the lines rubbed each other. I solved that problem with some heat shrink, fiberglass electrical tape and the original oil cooler line clamp.
Fred
Looks good Fred! Did you go with a satin white?
Quote from: fj1289 on February 22, 2016, 03:10:30 PM
Did you go with a satin white?
Yes, I went with Satin White paint. I am having reservations on how long the white will look good. :scratch_one-s_head:
Fred
A couple tricks I've learned from the flat black bike - windex is a very good cleaner, and a little WD40 on a rag makes for a very nice "detail polish" - especially if the paint gets a little "chalky"
Fred. You are evil. Now I'm going to have to battle to keep from getting another one. White looks ffnn fantastic.
We all know that most parts for our FJ's are interchangeable. Some parts are not....and mostly, no matter what you do. They will not swap.
I was relaying to Randy a part of my engine build, I was informed that I had unknowingly made a possible grave mistake during assembly.
While installing the pistons and wrist pins. One of the Wiseco spring clips got away from me and I could not find it. No problem, I thought. I have 8 spares from the old pistons. I used one of the Yamaha spring clips and marched on.
The OEM Yamaha wrist pin clips CAN NOT be used in Wiseco pistons :bomb:
There is a .002" difference. That is an extremely small difference, but enough, that over time can allow the wrist pin slide past the clip and make contact with the cylinder wall.
So now after 500 miles on the engine..... I should be changing out the break-in oil for mineral oil and ride it like I stole it. Now.....I have to tear the engine back down and remove the one Yamaha piston spring clip. By the way, I did find the Wiseco spring clip, after the engine was completely assembled. :dash2: :mad: :ireful: :dash1: :cray: :shok:
Fred
Quote from: aviationfred on February 29, 2016, 08:30:39 AM
We all know that most parts for our FJ's are interchangeable. Some parts are not....and mostly, no matter what you do. They will not swap.
I was relaying to Randy a part of my engine build, I was informed that I had unknowingly made a possible grave mistake during assembly.
While installing the pistons and wrist pins. One of the Wiseco spring clips got away from me and I could not find it. No problem, I thought. I have 8 spares from the old pistons. I used one of the Yamaha spring clips and marched on.
The OEM Yamaha wrist pin clips CAN NOT be used in Wiseco pistons :bomb:
There is a .002" difference. That is an extremely small difference, but enough, that over time can allow the wrist pin slide past the clip and make contact with the cylinder wall.
So now after 500 miles on the engine..... I should be changing out the break-in oil for mineral oil and ride it like I stole it. Now.....I have to tear the engine back down and remove the one Yamaha piston spring clip. By the way, I did find the Wiseco spring clip, after the engine was completely assembled. :dash2: :mad: :ireful: :dash1: :cray: :shok:
Fred
ouch! Thanks for passing on the lesson learned - glad you found out now rather than a few thousand miles down the road with damage!
Randy sent me a few photos of what the possibility could be if I don't go back in and change the clip.
Quote from: aviationfred on February 29, 2016, 08:30:39 AM
There is a .002" difference. That is an extremely small difference, but enough, that over time can allow the wrist pin slide past the clip and make contact with the cylinder wall.
Let me expound on this a little.
Yes the clip is slightly smaller in diameter, but it is not the only difference. The cir-clip groove in the Wiseco piston is also larger to allow the proper fitment of their larger cir-clip. When the Yamaha clip is used it sinks much deeper into the larger groove of the Wiseco piston.
Then the taper on the end of the wrist pin will work against the Yamaha clip causing it to go deeper in the groove and the wrist pin comes out an rubs on the cylinder.
The two cir-clip are not interchangeable. I am glad it came up in Fred and my conversation the other day, if not the result of the two photos I sent to him would have been devastating and dangerous.
Randy - RPM
Wow that would really suck. To have all your work take a crap. Over a tiny piece of wire. Really sucks, that you were just going to be able to go into big-time kookaloo... Oh nope, got to tare it back down.
Back to the hugger. The silver does look out of place..but man white looks soo good....
I have to resist. :diablo:
Looks great Fred. I have to disagree with Dan though. I think the hugger looks good in silver. It matches the swing arm, frame and chain guard and does not detract from the good looking white paint. Dave
Quote from: giantkiller on February 29, 2016, 10:23:48 AM
Back to the hugger. The silver does look out of place..but man white looks soo good....
I only have one hugger, so I need to have it a color that works for both sets of bodywork. Silver seems to work ok. I have been toying with some ideas on modifying and shortening it a bit and the a two tone respray in Silver with a black chain guard area
fred
Now which piston did I fit that Yamaha clip into? :wacko3:
That really is rotten luck Fred, I feel for you. Having to strip a 'just built' engine a few times over the years I know how heart breaking it is.
Are you going to put new rings in?
Noel
Quote from: ribbert on March 01, 2016, 04:08:10 AM
Are you going to put new rings in?
Noel
I spoke with Wiseco and I was told. With only 500 miles on the rings, that they are ok to reinstall. I was instructed to use a green scotch brite pad in soapy water to lightly scrub the cylinder walls. Once dry, lightly coat the cylinder walls with mineral based engine oil and reassemble.
Fred
The wrist pin clip has been replaced with the correct Wiseco clip. No damage to the cylinder wall. The engine is apart and waiting for new gaskets for reassembly.
Photo of 500 miles on the new Wiseco pistons.
Fred
:dance: Glad to see you got to it in time Fred :good2:
How do the plugs look?
Quote from: Pat Conlon on March 04, 2016, 11:14:51 PM
How do the plugs look?
All 4 look the same. Had a difficult time getting the electrodes in focus.
Got the engine back together. should be ready for start up later this evening. My clicker torque wrench crapped out on me, had to break out the old school dial indicating torque wrench.
Quote from: aviationfred on February 21, 2016, 06:35:19 PM
The only thing left is to install the smoked tail light and smoked rear signals. I am still waiting on a bracket.
Fred
Hey, just installed the same kit on my 84. I was wondering how reliability has been so far... while i am looking forward to having more power, a majority of time will be spent hauling the wife around.
Great write-up
Jason....
I currently have about 2600 miles on the rebuild and it is running great. I did a 634 mile ride Wednesday without hiccup.
Fred
I was looking through this post as I will be doing this again to my current FJ. I figured I would post the most recent photo of the 1300 before it was stolen.
Fred