Hi,
I'm wondering how hard the gearshift should be on my 1992 FJ - it just clocked 70,000 miles
Into first gear, it jumps, not too much but it seems more than other bikes I have owned. Then up shifting while accelerating you can hear the gears shift and contact pretty hard.
Downshifting is quiet and smoother.
There is no slipping it just seems the clutch needs adjustment. I drained and bled the system so it has fresh fluid.
I guess the place to start is a rebuild kit for the master and slave?
How would I know when the clutch needs replacement? I read on the forum that the springs might need changing out?
Many thanks
Pete
My 89 is pretty much the same way.
So is my Venture. Although not as bad as my FJ.
Pretty much every Yamaha I've ever owned has had that clunk into first and a ratchety gearbox.
Even my old RD350/400's were that way.
Come to think of it, so's my 85 V45 Interceptor....
Quote from: great white on August 30, 2015, 02:36:42 PM
My 89 is pretty much the same way.
So is my Venture.
Pretty much every yamaha I've ever owned has had that clunk into first and a ratchety gearbox.
Even my old RD350/400's were that way.....
Agreed. My RD350 also. XS650 is clunky and a little worse than the 84FJ. Hate to say it but the Hardly shifts easier but is still clunky. Best shifter I ever had was a Kawasaki Vulcan. Very smooth and positive shifting with no missed shifts or false neutrals. Sold the Vulcan for the Hardly. Talk about a down grade. RPM's shifter mod did help with quicker more positive shifts on the FJ but still clunky. Dave
Quote from: bwanapete on August 30, 2015, 02:12:33 PM
Hi,
I'm wondering how hard the gearshift should be on my 1992 FJ - it just clocked 70,000 miles
Into first gear, it jumps, not too much but it seems more than other bikes I have owned. Then up shifting while accelerating you can hear the gears shift and contact pretty hard.
Downshifting is quiet and smoother.
There is no slipping it just seems the clutch needs adjustment. I drained and bled the system so it has fresh fluid.
I guess the place to start is a rebuild kit for the master and slave?
How would I know when the clutch needs replacement? I read on the forum that the springs might need changing out?
Many thanks
Pete
What are the other bikes you are comparing to?
I'd simply consider a new slave cylinder and a rebuild kit - install the new one and tear down the old one - IF it's rebuildable, then rebuild it and put it on the shelf. If it's not rebuildable then put the rebuild kit on the shelf
Is the fluid in the fluid in the master cyl reservoir low? Did you have to top it up? Did the oil change make any difference at all after at least a 100 miles of riding? Is the chain too tight? If the answers are a "no" to all questions it does sound like the clutch is not disengaging properly which will probly not be a spring prob either (If it`s the stock spring).
If it`s been like it since you first started riding it, might be time to have a run on a mates bike (or vice versa) for a comparison. :drinks:
Thanks for the pointers and advice -
I'm comparing it to the Yamaha xt 500 and 550's although they do jump into first gear I guess it could be that I'm dealing with an engine twice that size.
I'm going to check the chain tension, thanks for that pointer and will ride it like this for a while and see if it gets worse
The master cylinder seems sound, no dropping of fluid levels and no visible leaks around the hoses and slave.
maybe it is just the Yamaha transmission and a much larger cycle I'm dealing with.
I was worried that I would have to start looking at redoing the clutch but as of now the bike rides fine, just clunky
Thanks to all
Pete
This is why you need to go to a FJ Rally.
When a gaggle of FJ's are stopped at a signal, it seems most of us have our bikes in neutral (I know we shouldn't but we do. It must be a double spring type deal)
Anyhoo, it's amusing to hear (almost) everyone clunk their bike into first gear as the signal starts it's green cycle.
Clunk, clunk, clunk....
clunk into first comes with the bike for free... :rofl2:
What I have found however is that certain engine oils seem to make shifting a lot easier... like night and day difference.
Make and type seem to be machine specific - so you will need to experiment and find what works for you.
For me its synthetic 15w 50 as we live is a hotter climate... others like different weights and makes.
All I can say is that it is worth the effort trying different weights and types to see what works for you.
When you find the sweet spot.. you will know as apart from first - your gear box will be silky smooth.
good luck.
Quote from: dayta on August 31, 2015, 09:38:04 PM
clunk into first comes with the bike for free... :rofl2:
What I have found however is that certain engine oils seem to make shifting a lot easier... like night and day difference.
Make and type seem to be machine specific - so you will need to experiment and find what works for you.
For me its synthetic 15w 50 as we live is a hotter climate... others like different weights and makes.
All I can say is that it is worth the effort trying different weights and types to see what works for you.
When you find the sweet spot.. you will know as apart from first - your gear box will be silky smooth.
good luck.
I have had six different Yamahas manufactured between 1968 and 1984 and none of them had transmissions that were "silky smooth". Can't comment on the newer models. Dave
The clutch that came with my '86 over 17 years ago was always hard to shift and CLUNKED really hard on the first sift into 1st before leaving the dive. After I replaced it with a stock set of steels and fibers along with the roller shift kit from RPM, it shifted like warm butter. Night and day difference.
Quote from: FJmonkey on August 31, 2015, 10:16:00 PMThe clutch that came with my '86 over 17 years ago was always hard to shift and CLUNKED really hard on the first sift into 1st before leaving the dive. After I replaced it with a stock set of steels and fibers along with the roller shift kit from RPM, it shifted like warm butter. Night and day difference.
Pete,
I agree, here. As you pull the clutch lever, it should disengage the clutch, then have at least another 1/4" (5mm) of lever movement, before it hits the grip. A good system bleed may be needed, and it may take
several tries to get out all the air. A worn clutch handle or master cylinder assembly may not push enough fluid. Inspect the clutch handle pivot bushing, the pushrod, and the part of the lever that pushes the pushrod for wear. A new master cylinder with a slightly larger piston can also be one answer, there.
Beyond that, you may have clutch plates that are warped or sticky. It's not too difficult to remove them, inspect, and maybe clean them. Inspect the plates for overall flatness using a plate of glass or heavy metal flat plate stock, and check at the drive points. If the metal is mushroomed there, I'd suggest getting new plates. An all-new clutch pack may be close to the price of buying just a number of plates. The clutch basket and center drive should be smooth, where they drive the clutch plates. Any worn (gouged) surfaces there can prevent the clutch from releasing easily. Soak any new or used fiber plates in a pan of clean oil for the night, before they get installed. Keep in touch with the crew here.
Cheers,
Red
Had kinda the same issue.I chances to 20/50 ansol.it helped mine a lot.the automobile 10/30 the pervious owner used ruined the clutch.the oul switch helped till my clutch died
On the subject of the first gear clunk. One of the very few areas of the FJ performance issue,in general terms that has pissed me off, no end is that annoying crash into first gear. We all agree this is simply an issue of clutch drag. It seems this condition affects some FJs more than others. On my own 90, it has persisted through assorted clutch sets, various engine oil types , varying amounts of wear in related mechanical bits. Something that also seems to remain constant , is that when I start the bike from cold,if I drop it into gear right away, without waiting for warm up, it snicks into gear without any clunk at all.After the motor comes up a bit in temperature, going into gear will produce the nasty clunk every time. If I hold the clutch lever in for 10 or 20 seconds, the box still clunks. I know this is not an issue of hydraulics, my thinking leans more to how much oil the clutch is being fed. We know that the clutch gets oil from the hole the pushrod resides in, maybe from some other feed point too, but what provision is there to drain that oil from the clutch pack at a rate sufficient to not allow the clutch to act like a fluid coupler.. I recall seeing an article years ago about how to drill some holes in the clutch hub that would help disperse what amounts to surplus oil within the assembly. Does anyone here recall anything about this article or this as a possible cure ?
After changing my oil a few times and installing a new clutch and my idle at 1000 rpm.first gear is smooth as butter,i dont use the clutch after first gear.
Earl,
Here are a couple of pics that show clutch hub/basket drilling.
These are NOT pics of FJ parts.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/9/99_03_01_16_7_09_46.jpeg)
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/9/99_03_01_16_7_08_01.jpeg)
Arnie
Interesting, thanks Arnie :good:
I would try this mod, but I'm chicken and the clunk is no big deal to me... I'm not worrying about ruining a clutch basket. That's an easy replacement. As the article warns with the extra drain holes, I would worry about a reduction in oil pressure when the engine is singing the kookaloo song.
Who wants to be first?
You've got to ask yourself, is the risk worth the reward?
Quote from: Arnie on January 03, 2016, 07:14:09 PM
Earl,
Here are a couple of pics that show clutch hub/basket drilling.
These are NOT pics of FJ parts.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/9/99_03_01_16_7_09_46.jpeg)
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/9/99_03_01_16_7_08_01.jpeg)
Arnie
Interesting idea but as the FJ clutch has no operational issues, unlike the bike above, I would be reluctant to compromise the integrity of the basket drilling holes all over it for what is not really a problem, just an annoyance.
Personally it doesn't bother me, I only select first from neutral once per ride, after first start of the day when it's cold, otherwise it stays in gear and gets started in gear. If I was in the habit of coming to a stop in neutral all day long it would probably annoy me too.
The smooth engagement when cold (IMO) is the oil being just thick enough to stop the gearbox being dragged around by the clutch (and offers much less resistance when it warms up and spins)
On mine when hot, having come to a stop in first gear, if I put it in neutral
but leave the clutch pulled in, I can reselect first at any time, long or short, without the clunk. This means the drag is enough to keep it spinning but not enough to start it spinning, so it's right on the threshold and would explain why some do some don't.
OK, who's going to be first! Theoretically, drilling holes may be the fix but it is a fix to a problem that's not really a problem but once carried out might become a problem. Remember, and exploding clutch basket is not only going to ruin your day, but possibly your engine as well.
Heaven forbid this should become the next "mod de jour"
Learn to love the clunk (or leave it gear).
Noel
Note:
I can't see the connection between drilling excessive holes and depriving the gearbox and top end of oil (as mentioned in the text), all you are doing is slinging off oil that has already been delivered under pressure.
Quote from: Shane4371 on January 03, 2016, 05:22:45 PM
.......i dont use the clutch after first gear.
What about when you are wringing the neck out of it or down shifting?
Noel
When I put those drilled clutch pics in the gallery, I added this:
Description: Here are a couple of drilled clutch hubs and baskets to increase oil flow.
They were on different bikes, but the principle should be the same.
I'd be careful to relieve the edges of any holes you drill, these bikes do not have the massive torque of the FJ.
Standard Disclaimer: If you do this, its all your responsibility. I make no claims of its suitability or safety for use on the FJ.
I probably should have added that to the post with the pics in it.
Note: I have NOT done this to my FJ, nor did I do it to my RG500. The one bike I've owned that would probably have been most improved by this mod would have been my Norton Commando, but its long gone from my ownership.
That modification makes no since,it weakens the clutch housing reducing its life Span.
That a spinning assembly, addional holes drilled in it will throw addional oil away from the clutches, u have also weakened the housing by removing material.
my 91 fj with xjr1200 engine doesnt have those problems as much as mij 91 with fj engine, to reduce the clunk, I roll it out of the garage backwards put it in gear, still rolling and engine off loosen the clutch en it comes loose, starting and putting in gear no problems
That nasty clash going into gear ,,,, Do you suppose that the actual friction plates could be part of the problem ? I have looked at a lot of clutch plates in a lot of bikes, car transmissions , heavy equipment. Every one of them has some variation of slotting or grooving in the material face on the friction disk. Are these relief slots there to channel the oil out? I think I'll look a bit further into this.
Any thoughts ?
Quote from: Earl Svorks on January 05, 2016, 03:14:54 PM
That nasty clash going into gear ,,,, Do you suppose that the actual friction plates could be part of the problem ? I have looked at a lot of clutch plates in a lot of bikes, car transmissions , heavy equipment. Every one of them has some variation of slotting or grooving in the material face on the friction disk. Are these relief slots there to channel the oil out? I think I'll look a bit further into this.
Any thoughts ?
These slots or channels are also present on clutch plates on vehicles with dry clutches. They may help oil escape but I'm not sure that's their main job.
Thanks for that Arnie. I'm thinking that this procedure was aimed at fixing a different problem, or symptom than what irks me. I will look at the friction plate options and see what develops.
Earl, the slots you mention on dry car/ heavy equip etc. clutches are for heat and dust removal.
As previously mentioned, it is IMO right on the threshold and would not take much to stop it happening but I'm not sure how you would go about it or if the "problem" is worth the effort.
Have you considered limiting the oil supply to it or making it splash feed only. I wouldn't reckon the plates are big enough or thick enough to withstand any modification.
Does it really annoy that much?
Noel
When at a rally, it is quite the sound of 20 FJ,s banging into first gear.
Awesome to behold. Personally , I have no problem with it . If you wanna drill out the hub or restrict oil to it go for it and let us know what happens. With as many problems as the clutch already has being barely enough for the fj's tourqe I would be cautious about weakening the hub. I wonder if the guys with the Barnet setup have the clunk issue.
Quote from: Mark Olson on January 05, 2016, 07:37:37 PM
I wonder if the guys with the Barnet setup have the clunk issue.
Yes, both my '84 and my '92 with the Barnett coil spring conversions, still have the clunk.
Quote from: Mark Olson on January 05, 2016, 07:37:37 PM
I wonder if the guys with the Barnet setup have the clunk issue.
Nah, it sometimes sounds more like someone hitting the cases with a poleax. :shok:
Quote from: not a lib on January 05, 2016, 08:16:46 PM
Quote from: Mark Olson on January 05, 2016, 07:37:37 PM
I wonder if the guys with the Barnet setup have the clunk issue.
Nah, it sometimes sounds more like someone hitting the cases with a poleax. :shok:
There is never any doubt if it went into first when you hear that bang.
Maybe we could brain storm and develop a clutch brake for our transmissions, I wrench on semis and when the clutch brake goes south.it causes engagement issues..I've been watching this post daily,I had the same issue but mine was cured with maintance, I hope you find the cure,please post how you resolve the issue.
I cured my FJ and my other Yamahas first gear clunk by installing the Factory Pro roller bearing shifter detent arm and spring, adjusting the chain to spec, and replacing the cush hub damper blocks in the rear wheel. Cynthia's TDM needed the APE heavy duty clutch hub springs too. My YZF600 is hard on clutch hubs and I am now about to install another hub along with a 3rd set of rear wheel damper blocks.
I want to try one of the APE Trac King clutch baskets the next time the FJ clutch needs service.
That's interesting Jon. Do you suspect wear on the FJ clutch basket is adding to the clunk?
Pat, Yes the springs on the back side of the clutch basket loose tension. The APE clutch hub springs that they sell for the FZR1000 are the ones I've used in the past. Cynthia's TDM hub was very bad,when I took it off of the engine I could twist it back and forth and it would rattle.
Also, when the rubber damper blocks in the rear wheel shrink and get hard with age, that lets the shift into 1st sound bad. The TDM is on its third set and the YZF needs new ones too.
Quote from: JCainFJ on January 12, 2016, 12:39:35 PM
I cured my FJ and my other Yamahas first gear clunk by installing the Factory Pro roller bearing shifter detent arm and spring, adjusting the chain to spec, and replacing the cush hub damper blocks in the rear wheel.
Replacing cush drive blocks and tightening the chain are only minimising the effect and not fixing the cause.
The clunk is caused by the clutch dragging the gearbox around, even when it's disengaged.
It acts like a fluid coupler with the oil between the plates providing enough drag to keep the gearbox spinning while it has no load on it (in neutral)
As observed by many here, the behaviour changes from when the engine is cold to when it is hot, as the oil viscosity changes.
I can't see the connection between this and the shifter kit.
Noel
I agree Noel.
Driveline snatch is a different issue.
True that, all a person can do is try to minimise the clunk. I'm just stating what has worked for me.
The shifter kit makes every shift quicker and more positive, even the shift into first from neutral.
Shane , ,,Your idea about rigging up a clutch brake has been rattling around my head for some time now. It would be the cure for the symptom regardless of what oil ,or clutch plate make. It would also be extremely difficult to engineer. If I were to attempt this , the first detail in design might be to arrange that the brake be triggered by the neutral light switch. The device might be installed into the outer clutch cover. It could make contact with the clutch pressure plate when the clutch was dis engaged, but only when the neutral switch is closed. Before we get too excited, we're gonna' need to have someone tell us just exactly what is the function of this plate on the inside of the clutch cover. WTF does it do?
Also, Noel I agree with you concerning the roller bearing detent not being involved in this issue. I modified my detent arm with a generic open ball bearing whose OD matched the OEM roller. I have also found as many as 3 different springs of differing rates for this application.
Simon
The key is in the name of the part. It's called a breather plate, per the parts listing.
I suspect it's function is to separate the blow by gasses from the oil, preventing oil from puking out the crankcase breather tube.
Just a hunch.
Randy will chime in.
Quote from: Earl Svorks on January 13, 2016, 04:01:54 PM
Shane , ,,Your idea about rigging up a clutch brake has been rattling around my head for some time now. It would be the cure for the symptom regardless of what oil ,or clutch plate make. It would also be extremely difficult to engineer. If I were to attempt this , the first detail in design might be to arrange that the brake be triggered by the neutral light switch. The device might be installed into the outer clutch cover. It could make contact with the clutch pressure plate when the clutch was dis engaged, but only when the neutral switch is closed. Before we get too excited, we're gonna' need to have someone tell us just exactly what is the function of this plate on the inside of the clutch cover. WTF does it do?
Also, Noel I agree with you concerning the roller bearing detent not being involved in this issue. I modified my detent arm with a generic open ball bearing whose OD matched the OEM roller. I have also found as many as 3 different springs of differing rates for this application.
Simon
Its almost 5xs a week I get a driver complaining,ita hard to go in gear or the truck jps when I put it in gear.9 xs outta 10 somethings.outta adjustment, anyway,in relation to our clutchs,pulling the clutch lever disengages the clutch.we know this,so with the clutch lever pulled completely down how far should the clutchs move in relation to a clutch lever being fully pulled in.thier has to be a measurement thats within specs and outta specs.i hope you see were im going with this
Thanks for that Pat. I also found info that backs this up in a drawing related to someone's carb issues elsewhere in the forum today.
Shane,,it would be simple to measure clutch pressure plate travel with a dial gauge. Of course the outer cover would have to be off to accomplish this. Perhaps we can ask of anyone who reads this who has or plans to have their clutch exposed that they might take the time to measure their own clutch in this way. I am certain no specification exists in the available literature. We could compile our own database on the subject. This would certainly be interesting, at least. Perhaps helpful to others with clutch issues.
Simon
Quote from: Earl Svorks on January 13, 2016, 04:01:54 PM
.......rigging up a clutch brake has been rattling around my head for some time now. It would be the cure for the symptom regardless of what oil ,or clutch plate make. It would also be extremely difficult to engineer. .........
Simon
Simon, as the drag appears marginal, have you considered altering the fulcrum on the M/C to give you a bit more throw, or a different M/C, or a stepped slave cylinder, separating the plates a bit more, I don't reckon it needs much. If it throws the spring over centre you could try it with a modified coil spring unit such as the Barnett and pack the clutch cover out accordingly, probably only 5mm or so.
It would be a lot less engineering than a clutch brake if it worked.
Then there's the power assisted clutch I started making a couple of years back for an arthritic rider but he stopped riding before I got too far down the track with it. This could also tie in with a modified clutch as you would not want to lose any of the clamping force and presumably it would end up being heavier on the pull.
Interesting subject, I love these sort of projects but in this case, in theory only, I only go from neutral to first once a day.
Keep posting your thoughts.
Noel
Hey Noel,
I have gone to some length to see that I am obtaining maximum piston travel at both ends of the clutch system. I do ,however think that I can get a bit more out of it with a simple modification that will be easy to execute. It involves a short, half round, or semi
circular shim whose inside radius matches the handlebar outside diameter. This shim would fit between the handlebar and clutch master cyl outboard of the bolt holes to tilt the cyl,and it's lever a little bit away from the handlebar. A 2 degree angle from the bar (this angle could be increased easily) will produce a few millimeters increase in the distance between bar and lever end. The cap on the back of the mc could be shimmed at it's inboard edge if the ensuing misalignment was an issue. This should provide an increase in fluid displacement sufficient to increase pressure plate outward movement enough to make some difference. If this has the desired effect on clutch drag , then I will do something permanent. If there's no improvement, it's simple to put things back as they were. No harm done. I hope to eliminate , or better yet, confirm this as the cause of that persistent clutch drag
Simon
Quote from: Earl Svorks on January 15, 2016, 12:28:17 AM
.....This should provide an increase in fluid displacement sufficient to increase pressure plate outward movement enough to make some difference....
Simon
Simon, this had crossed my mind but I wondered about the limitations of piston travel inside the M/C and the clutch spring going over centre? Anyway, easy enough to give it a try.
For the purpose of the exercise, you could just hold something between the nub on the lever and end of the m/c piston while you pull the lever in and select first.
Doing it this way you could just keep increasing the thickness of the shim until there is no more piston travel, or it works or there's a sudden funny noise from the clutch and it never works again. :biggrin:
Noel
For the purpose of the exercise, you could just hold something between the nub on the lever and end of the m/c piston while you pull the lever in and select first.
Hey Noel,
I have converted to the coil spring pressure plate . As a result I no longer enjoy the over center effect. I miss that, but I don't miss the slippage.
I feel that the piston in the master could hit the bottom of the bore without without any harm. The lever would just refuse any more travel.
The clutch lever on my 1200 is not the type that bears directly onto the piston.
The other type, (for those who haven't seen this) differs in that there is a brass barrel
fitted into the lever. This barrel is counter bored to accept a shouldered rod whose rounded end registers into the pocket in the end of the mc piston. This barrel can rotate in the lever to allow the rod to keep proper alignment The shoulder halfway
along the rod has a groove around it which the boot fits onto. I would guess that this design is intended to eliminate the scuffing on the piston where the lever contacts it and the resulting side loading that must cause wear on the piston and the bore .There is no place to fit anything that would take up any of the clearance there.
I would just heat and bend the lever out a bit if not for the fact that clearance between the lever and the hb switch is what limits the lever travel.
. It's monsoon time just now and nothing will get done for a bit but I will post results.
Thanks for the ongoing input.
Simon
I've gone back into my notes (from 1996!) and found some ideas on how to minimise the neutral to first gear clunk. Getting all of the air out of the clutch hydraulics will allow the clutch plates to separate as fully as Yamaha designed them to.
1. If you try to bleed the air out of the slave cylinder with the bike on the side stand you might not get all of the air out of the system. Lean the bike over to the right so that the bleeder is at the highest point on the slave cylinder or remove the slave hold it with a C-clamp so that the bleeder is at the highest point and then bleed the system. I used a come-along that I hung from a steel beam in my garage to support my FJ and I leaned it way over to the right.
2. When assembling the piston/seal into the slave cylinder line up one of the 4 vent holes in the piston with the opening for the bleeder so that any air trapped between the back side of the seal and the piston has an easy path out at the top of the slave. The 4 holes are in the spring side of the piston.
3. Degass the new brake fluid. I have access to a bell jar and a vacuum pump and by pulling the fluid down to -27in. Hg. several times it is possable to remove most of the trace gasses trapped in the brake fluid. Degassing also helps when changing the fluid in the brake system too.
4. Never ever shake your bottle of brake fluid, it takes weeks for all of the tiny bubbles to dissipate.
I've had my FJ for 21 years and this thread sounded familiar when I first read it. I'm glad I keep notes on my motorcycle projects!
Great hints.....thanks! :hi:
Quote from: JCainFJ on January 20, 2016, 02:12:43 PM
I've gone back into my notes (from 1996!) and found some ideas on how to minimise the neutral to first gear clunk. Getting all of the air out of the clutch hydraulics will allow the clutch plates to separate as fully as Yamaha designed them to.
1. If you try to bleed the air out of the slave cylinder with the bike on the side stand you might not get all of the air out of the system. Lean the bike over to the right so that the bleeder is at the highest point on the slave cylinder or remove the slave hold it with a C-clamp so that the bleeder is at the highest point and then bleed the system. I used a come-along that I hung from a steel beam in my garage to support my FJ and I leaned it way over to the right.
2. When assembling the piston/seal into the slave cylinder line up one of the 4 vent holes in the piston with the opening for the bleeder so that any air trapped between the back side of the seal and the piston has an easy path out at the top of the slave. The 4 holes are in the spring side of the piston.
3. Degass the new brake fluid. I have access to a bell jar and a vacuum pump and by pulling the fluid down to -27in. Hg. several times it is possable to remove most of the trace gasses trapped in the brake fluid. Degassing also helps when changing the fluid in the brake system too.
4. Never ever shake your bottle of brake fluid, it takes weeks for all of the tiny bubbles to dissipate.
I've had my FJ for 21 years and this thread sounded familiar when I first read it. I'm glad I keep notes on my motorcycle projects!
You should also check your idle speed.. if it is too high, it will engage harshly. I also had a problem with my bike when using other engine oils rather than Yamalube.
Quote from: dayta on August 31, 2015, 09:38:04 PM
clunk into first comes with the bike for free... :rofl2:
What I have found however is that certain engine oils seem to make shifting a lot easier... like night and day difference.
Make and type seem to be machine specific - so you will need to experiment and find what works for you.
For me its synthetic 15w 50 as we live is a hotter climate... others like different weights and makes.
All I can say is that it is worth the effort trying different weights and types to see what works for you.
When you find the sweet spot.. you will know as apart from first - your gear box will be silky smooth.
good luck.
I find this true also, I use amsoil 20w40 and 20w50 motorcycle oil and mine shifts like butter, turned other friends on to it and they say the same thing.