Hooray, My new gauges have turned up from speed hut. Will put full install info in my project page, but had to share. (my kids tell me "sharing is caring ")
They look great.... :good2:
Fred
Looks nice.
Couple questions if you don't mind.
I see the clock buttons are not in the cluster. Do you loose the clock?
Does it work wit the stock Yamaha wiring to cancel the turn signals? IE: does it have the reed switch or do you have to rely on the 10 sec timer to cancel the sigs?
Is the speedo cable or GPS driven?
I believe Mark has a 1100, so there is no clock on that model.
Very nice Mark! Any surprises on the install?
Wow!
Very nice!
That looks great Mark... Thanks for caring.
Hey Great White.
My new gauges are mounted into an old spare cluster that that I had from an FJ1200. The clock didn't work in this cluster anyway (who care what time it is when you are riding, except if it is beer o'clock) and the speedo had already been pillage for my current cluster after the original speedo failed. (the current one is not working either now) I have never been a fan of the auto cancel on the FJ (always turns off before I want it too) so not a concern for me. I am used to riding bike without this feature anyway.
I hope to get them fitted this weekend, but lots to do on the bike so may not happen. I am also hopefully adding my GSXR rear wheel this weekend. As I said I said lots to do.
Mark
Did you send the cluster to them....how much they charge ya?
Quote from: Sabre093 on August 07, 2015, 06:33:04 PM
Did you send the cluster to them....how much they charge ya?
No, they sent them to me packaged individually. (matched set though) and I fitted to my dash last night. I managed to fit them without having to grind off the grip lugs on the clamp rings (unsure of that they actually called. The spin on ring that screws on the back of the gauge, the clamps it into place in the dash) as another member on this forum had to do. Basically I held the ring in place and spun the gauge, until it was a firm fit.
Mark
Those gauges look stellar!! :good2:
Beautiful job...
Frank
Quote from: Sabre093 on August 07, 2015, 06:33:04 PM
Did you send the cluster to them....how much they charge ya?
Sorry forgot to mention, the full set of 3 gauges (in Aussie Dollars) cot me about $600 including international postage. In the USA you could probably get them all for $450. I think their prices a very reasonable. I you went for Autometer or VDO gauges it would cost you a lot more, and you can customise the speedhut gauges for colour, font style lighting colour etc. I had them add an indicated red line on the tacho and they set my Odometer to 36000km to match my old speedo (which is wrong anyway)
Question Mark: Are you going to be able to push the reset button once you put the clear cover over the cluster? Looks short.
I am interested if the FJ's fuel tank float sender plays nice with the Speed Hut gauge.
Quote from: Pat Conlon on August 07, 2015, 10:48:06 PM
Question Mark: Are you going to be able to push the reset button once you put the clear cover over the cluster? Looks short.
I am interested if the FJ's fuel tank float sender plays nice with the Speed Hut gauge.
Hi Pat. Not sure about the reset button, will find out in due time. The remote switch had a reasonable length lead, so I may be able to attach it directly to the clear cluster cover. The fuel gauge has an adjustable Ohm range so I am hoping it will play nice. The Tacho can be set for pretty much engine configuration (1 cylinder through to V8)
Mark
When doing the set up for the tachometer, factor in that the FJ is a wasted spark engine design. The tachometer only receives half of the pulses of a regular 4 cylinder. I found this out when doing my digital tachometer mod.
Fred
Thanks Fred. Does that mean I set it as an 8cylinder?
Pat. The remotenswitch is not an issue. The gauge bezel hitting the clear cover is the issue. Glad I have a old cracked one to plat with to get it right. I an thinking a bit of heat to mold the cover a bit. The other thing that needed modifying/ removal was the plastic support posts that head the original gauges in place. Again I am glad I can mock this up in an old cluster.
Ok, thanks Mark!
Let us know how everything turns out. You will like that GSXR 17" rear wheel conversion.
Sweeeeeet
Pat. I was hoping to do the rear wheel conversion this weekend, but alas I still need a brake line. Maybe next weekend now. Will have my rebuilt (and re chromed) 89 forks with Racetech Springs and emulators (sorry RPM came down to price, the Aussie dollar is crap at the moment) , wheel and calipers next weekend too.
Hopefully there is instructions on how to set the tachometer. The signal from the engine to the tachometer acts as if it is a 2 cylinder engine.
On my Drift brand tach, I had to set the number of cylinders, and the number of coils.
Fred
Quote from: Urban_Legend on August 08, 2015, 12:22:01 AM
........but alas I still need a brake line.
Mark, are you running the line forward from the caliper or back, up and over?
Noel
Hey Fred
I got the tach sorted easy enough. The wiring was easier than I thought. I patched it into the existing wiring. I tapped the tacho and fuel gauge into the wires that I unscrewed to remove the old gauges (grey wire for the tach and green for the fuel gauge. followed the schematic in the Hayne guide.) everything else was pretty much either power (for dash lights, memory etc) or ground wires.
Quote from: ribbert on August 08, 2015, 06:49:27 AM
Quote from: Urban_Legend on August 08, 2015, 12:22:01 AM
........but alas I still need a brake line.
Mark, are you running the line forward from the caliper or back, up and over?
Noel
Hey noel. I was going to go up and over.
Quote from: Urban_Legend on August 08, 2015, 07:03:03 AM
Quote from: ribbert on August 08, 2015, 06:49:27 AM
Quote from: Urban_Legend on August 08, 2015, 12:22:01 AM
........but alas I still need a brake line.
Mark, are you running the line forward from the caliper or back, up and over?
Noel
Hey noel. I was going to go up and over.
Going forward looks a lot neater and is how I believe most of the bikes with underslung calipers are routed anyway.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/305/19778884743_1344b3283a.jpg)
....and how it looks on the FJ
Noel
Quote from: Urban_Legend on August 08, 2015, 12:22:01 AM
... Will have my rebuilt (and re chromed) 89 forks...
So I take it that the re-chroming didn't hurt the plastic valves in the bottom of the fork tubes? Or did you figure out a way to remove them? Gauges look awesome!
Bill
Quote from: CutterBill on August 08, 2015, 02:38:47 PM
Quote from: Urban_Legend on August 08, 2015, 12:22:01 AM
... Will have my rebuilt (and re chromed) 89 forks...
So I take it that the re-chroming didn't hurt the plastic valves in the bottom of the fork tubes? Or did you figure out a way to remove them? Gauges look awesome!
Bill
Hey Bill. I did not disassemble the fork (was done is a bike shop) but going by the fork tubes that Randy sells, the plastic valves are removable. https://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=m%2Fc%3Aforktube (https://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=m%2Fc%3Aforktube)
An example of the up and under brake line routing that i used. It has worked well over the last 2 years. I used the OEM length 1992 GSXR750 Galfer brake line.
Fred
Soooo. Ok I i got the new gauges installed. What have I learned.
Number one. There is a subtle difference between the 1100 cluster and the 1200 cluster. Their clear lenses are not interchangeable, and the actual casing and facia is a slightly different shape.
Number two. It is easier to install the speedhut gauges in the 1100 cluster housing, I ended up having to change it all from the 1200 to the 1100. (I was hoping to save my original cluster, but not to be because the lens for my 1200 cluster had a serious crack in it and very crazed. The 1100 is not much better, but it is in one piece)
I wired up the new gauges into the redundant wires from the old gauges. Not hard, you just have to be brave and start cutting. The 1100 cluster also has a rev limiter in it, fitted under the fuel gauge. This can not be kept with the new gauges as there is nowhere to mount it.
Number three. The clear cluster cover nearly fits, but not guite. Apart from hitting on the bezel of the new gauges it also presses on the settings buttons on the gauges. My fix for this was to drill 2 holes in the appropriate spots for the buttons to fit (I will post a pic of this). You can screw the cover in place (heat didn,t work in remoulding the lens) I put some sealant around the lens
I have tested the gauges with the bike running (except the speedo, due to time demads), and it all seems to work as it should.
I am away from home for the next week. So tune in next Sunday for anothe exciting installment.
Mark
In this picture you can see how bad my lens is, but you can also just make out the hole hole I drilled for the tacho set button on the bottom right side of the gauge
Quote from: aviationfred on August 08, 2015, 01:39:14 AM
Hopefully there is instructions on how to set the tachometer. The signal from the engine to the tachometer acts as if it is a 2 cylinder engine.
On my Drift brand tach, I had to set the number of cylinders, and the number of coils.
Fred
the tachometer is set to 1pps - easy to do, while I had the cover off I set the rev light. You won't regret this setup, mine has done nearly 40K km. The only time the GPS is annoying is riding between tall trees, the speedo goes up and down like it has a bad speedo cable and obviously in a tunnel (I use the tacho for speed checks).
Like you I put the reset switch for the speedo in the same place, I just trimmed the rubber to fit the push button through.
I did have to curve a bit of the white base cover for the speedo to fit, Unlike your gauges with the lower clamps I had to recess mine into the cover. I prefer your setup.
Thanks for the info Bozo. I have set my tacho to 1pps. I cant wait to test these out. Hopefully next week, with my new 17" wheels on it too.
Urban, I'm really looking forward to your installed photo of the gauges, the only issue I have is with the red print. My friend has a Z900 (z1260) with the same colour and I find it hard to see during day light, my Z1R has a blue face with white fonts (now that looks incredible at night).
I'm also interested in the rear end you are installing, I have heard from others (Arnie, Petedude etc) that its worth doing, so I might tackle that next as I'm tired of limited tyre choices.
Keep us posted. sorry I put Z1R photos on the FJ site but......
(http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag34/Bozo36/Mobile%20Uploads/P1020429_zps0ernfylk.jpg) (http://s1297.photobucket.com/user/Bozo36/media/Mobile%20Uploads/P1020429_zps0ernfylk.jpg.html)
(http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag34/Bozo36/Mobile%20Uploads/P1010690_zpsa5xxwqta.jpg) (http://s1297.photobucket.com/user/Bozo36/media/Mobile%20Uploads/P1010690_zpsa5xxwqta.jpg.html)
Dark face gauge with white lettering is best for me at day time.
Red illuminated lettering is best for me at night. Red lighting has a special wavelength which does not wash out your purple vision (night vision) Of course that's just a sales point, your night vision is washed out the moment you get caught in the glare of oncoming headlights (unless you close one eye)
Those blue ZR1 gauges would give me a headache.
Incas going to go.for the illuminated dials,, like the ZR1,but decided against it as I thought it would be too distracting (for me anyway) and.went for the red illuminated numbers instead. I will give a.full report on the wheels and gauges in my projects posts soon.
Quote from: Pat Conlon on August 11, 2015, 08:47:32 PM
Dark face gauge with white lettering is best for me at day time.
Red illuminated lettering is best for me at night. Red lighting has a special wavelength which does not wash out your purple vision (night vision) Of course that's just a sales point, your night vision is washed out the moment you get caught in the glare of oncoming headlights (unless you close one eye)
Those blue ZR1 gauges would give me a headache.
Pat, unfortunately the picture is crap, in real life the lighting is subdued in the dark, I ride it to work at 5am and the light is not distracting at all - maybe I'm too scared to check my speed?? :pardon:
Quote from: CutterBill on August 08, 2015, 02:38:47 PM
Quote from: Urban_Legend on August 08, 2015, 12:22:01 AM
... Will have my rebuilt (and re chromed) 89 forks...
So I take it that the re-chroming didn't hurt the plastic valves in the bottom of the fork tubes? Or did you figure out a way to remove them? Gauges look awesome!
Bill
Hi Bill. I talked to the bike shop guys today and had a look ay my newly Hard Chromed Fork tubes. They were done with the plastic ends in them.
Mark
Night lights
They look great Mark. :good2:
Hey Mark they look awesome! You wouldn't happen to have the model no.and sizes available. So a lazy guy like myself. Wouldn't have to figure it out. Think I'll do this for the Turbo bike. And if it works out. Maybe convert the 1350.
Thanks for posting.
And I thought I was done changing things in the plan for the Turbo bike.
Thanks again
Dan
Quote from: Urban_Legend on August 15, 2015, 02:31:31 AM
Hi Bill. I talked to the bike shop guys today and had a look ay my newly Hard Chromed Fork tubes. They were done with the plastic ends in them.
Mark
Interesting. Thanks for the info.
Quote from: Urban_Legend on August 15, 2015, 02:42:10 AM
Night lights
bloody nice, can you post the daytime photo please
Quote from: Bozo on August 16, 2015, 05:09:32 AM
Quote from: Urban_Legend on August 15, 2015, 02:42:10 AM
Night lights
bloody nice, can you post the daytime photo please
There is a photo posted earlier (last week), if you scroll through. The clear lens for my gauges is really crap, but gives you an idea.
I have a bit of a ride report on the gauges. Firstly, I should have gone for white numerals. The red ones are a bit dark and can be a bit hard to read in direct sunlight. At night they are fine and not distracting. The needles themselves are easy enough to see during night or day. Pert of my daytime issues though is my crappy lens cover. Otherwise I am happy with them.
Looks very good Mark, I am considering completing the set with a Tacho on mine to with the speedo, and yes i also wish I had gone with the white numbers. The main reason I stuck with red was to match the Tacho, but now that has packed up. Not had trouble through trees, but then I havn't ridden through any real dense forested areas yet, but being in Sydney the tinnels are in issue. Wasn't so bad using the tacho as a reference, but now that is busted its a case of listening to the engine note a dicey in our speed camera infested tunnels :nea:
As you probably read I machined down the front bezels as much as I dared to clear the clear cover - just. and make sure the speedo is real tight as if slightly loose the guts can turn - mine was showing 10kmh low..........