Is the oil level with rpm valves the same as stock forks springs?
If you bought the valves then follow the oil level instructions that came with them. If you lost them Randy or Robert can send you copy. If you don't have the valves, why are you asking? Just curious, not trying to being rude.
Lost the instructions and I've tried to email Randy but keep getting a error and cannot connect with him
I can scan my copy and post to your PM. Randy has newer and improved ones so I don't want to make it public.
I think someone posted the link off his site isn't working but if you email direct it goes through
Quote from: fuel80guy on June 01, 2015, 07:57:13 PM
Lost the instructions and I've tried to email Randy but keep getting a error and cannot connect with him
As copper said - you have to email direct vice using the link: randy@rpmracingca.com
Now thats odd because last night this post was gone from forum.
Moderator please delete my other post.
Did you get the valves in? I put mine in 2 weeks ago with the .85 kg springs and RPM rear shock. I'm impressed. Much more composed ride and it eliminates a lot of the brake dive. Easier now to brake hard and I'm rethinking upgrading the brakes as a result. Make sure you use the Motul 5W in the forks.
Yes randy sent me the info and I should have them back on this weekend.
just a word on fork tube oil level.
What is actually being changed with various oil levels is the volume of the air chamber at the top of the tube. That air is compressed as the forks compress and the rate of resistance to compression (i.e. air pressure) rises exponentially to the volume compressed (i.e. slider travel) The chamber is functionally a progressive spring. The smaller the air chamber (higher oil level) the higher the effective over-all spring rate and the "steeper" rate of increase.
Since the "sweet spot" for the rider is dependent on a combination of factors, including the individual rider's taste, suggested levels are stated in ranges, not absolute values.
It comes down to putting in enough oil to immerse the components, ride the bike, then add more 'till the ride gets a little stiff for your taste and suck some out to find your personal sweet spot.
RPM's valving may run softer or stiffer than that of the stock suspension, I don't know, but the air-chamber physics are the same and there is no such thing as "THE" correct oil level.
Season to taste.
Burns,
Excellant explaination. Kudos.
Arnie
Excellent post Burns. Nailed it without all the mumbo jumbo. Let's hope it's contagious.
I am pleased to see your return to the forum.
Noel
Thank you for your warm welcome to my return, mates. I just finished a job in North Carolina (a real character builder) and am getting re-connected. I I bought a shipping container (8x20X8) which will be here Tuesday and will start becoming my shop shortly thereafter. I gotta a LOT of FJ stuff onmy " to do" list.
I'll keep ya posted.
Meet ya in the Wind!
mb
I bought the valves, springs and oil before Xmas, when I lived in a detached house with a garage. Then I got caught playing way!!!!! Now live in a flat without a garage, my bikes are outside my front door. How long does it take to do the complete job? Notmechamically inept, just nervous when doing a job for the first time. I don't want to leave the bike in bits overnight!
Both fronts and rear are very easy to do. On a scale of 1-5 with 5 being the hardest, I'd give it a 2. With front forks you don't have to remove the front fairing. Unbolting the handlebars is simple and provides you with the clearance you need to remove the covers and access the internals. I highly recommend buying the tool for removing the damper rod insert https://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=27mmForkHolder. (https://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=27mmForkHolder.) Also helps to have a service manual.
Rear is dirt simple with no need to even remove the rear wheel. Two bolts on/off and you're done.
Basically, it's tough to get lost if you simply follow the directions and there are plenty of us here to help if you get stuck.
Time for rear was 40 minutes; front was 1:20 including time for draining the fork oil.
Would using a heavier weight oil give similar results to adding more 5 wt oil? BTW, the fork tool is 'not currently available' at RPM.
I'd stick with the 5wt oil, the valves were designed to work with that weight and adding thicker will probably give you a harsher ride because it wont flow through the shim stack as easy as the thin oil.
Quote from: magge52 on June 21, 2015, 06:34:32 PM
Would using a heavier weight oil give similar results to adding more 5 wt oil?
No, they do different things. A heavier wt oil will flow more slowly through any orifice or control mechanism (fork valve). Putting more oil in will make the spring rate increase more rapid as you approach full travel.
Quote from: magge52 on June 21, 2015, 06:34:32 PM
BTW, the fork tool is 'not currently available' at RPM.
So, make your own. A 3/4" nut has an outer measurement of 27mm (which is what you need). Weld that nut to a socket or to a piece of rod and that will work to hold the damper rod in place while you remove that 10mm head allen bolt from the bottom of the fork.
Quote from: Arnie on June 21, 2015, 09:02:07 PM
Quote from: magge52 on June 21, 2015, 06:34:32 PM
Would using a heavier weight oil give similar results to adding more 5 wt oil?
No, they do different things. A heavier wt oil will flow more slowly through any orifice or control mechanism (fork valve). Putting more oil in will make the spring rate increase more rapid as you approach full travel.
Quote from: magge52 on June 21, 2015, 06:34:32 PM
BTW, the fork tool is 'not currently available' at RPM.
So, make your own. A 3/4" nut has an outer measurement of 27mm (which is what you need). Weld that nut to a socket or to a piece of rod and that will work to hold the damper rod in place while you remove that 10mm head allen bolt from the bottom of the fork.
Like this. Or similar. I think it is an 18mm bolt. Head size 27mm
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/6/1651_09_11_13_9_26_59.jpeg)
George
All of the fork tools are in stock, the link posted was from a cart.
Yamaha Damper Rod Holder (http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=27mmForkHolder)
I will respond in depth later this week about all of the recent posts.
Trev, fork valves are pretty simple to install, give the directions a few reads before starting and let me know if you have any questions.
5wt oil only and only Motul 5 wt. I covered this in depth in the original posts on the valves.
The air gap was also part of the testing of the valves and the depth listed in the directions is pretty important as it does change the way the valves work.
I will try and get the detailed reply by Wednesday.
Randy - RPM
I'll chime in as a happy RPM Fork Valve/Race-Tech Spring user!
Just rebuilt my first set of FJ forks last week, and performed the checkout ride last night.
Wow!
Followed Randy's instructions and recommendations, and could not be happier.
Thank you (again), RPM! :hi:
Steve