Hi All
I have decided to start a new project for Sparkles (my FJ1100) As most of you know I brought the old girl back to life, and she came up a treat, but now she needs some modernising. After the man shed day in Brisbane i left with a heap of things that i wanted to do to the old girl.
I have made up a list of changes to occur over the next few months.
1. and the top of the list is to fix the oil leaks. So new gallery plug and O-Ring, new Slave cylinder and a new gasket/seal on the right side of the crank case. I am going to rebuild the original motor , but this could take some time, so the current motor will need to be maintained.
New brake and clutch master cylinders are also being ordered as we speak.
2. My speedo, tach and fuel gauge are not working as they should. So I have decided to bite the bullet and get all new gauges from Speed Hub and make up a whole new cluster. I know that I could probably get an OEM cluster for about the same price or cheaper, for I want to go a GPS speedo.
3. 17" wheel upgrade. I have been making some enquiries and I think i may have sourced most of the bits i need for this. It will be as money and time permits.
4. This is only cosmetic. For those that have seen the bike you will have noticed the gravel rash on the right side of the bike. This will be fixed in due course.
5. This is the last one - The Carbies need new diaphragms. This will occure in due time
I will keep you updated with info and pics as I progress.
got a set of diaphragms from my 86 carbs, they(the carbs) were in bad shape and i finished them off trying to rebuild them- just parts now
diaphragms and slides look good though
-yours for shipping
Quote from: fjfool on May 17, 2015, 09:48:30 PM
got a set of diaphragms from my 86 carbs, they(the carbs) were in bad shape and i finished them off trying to rebuild them- just parts now
diaphragms and slides look good though
-yours for shipping
Hey. Sent you a personal message. Thanks
Mark
Unless your gallery plug is snapped in half you won't need it Mark, just the o ring. But if you are going to do it properly, then why not. After discovering a few more pinholes and a slight tear in the Project '92s diaphragms on the weekend, I'm going to try the Plastidip method of fixing them. Good reports from people using this product for carb repairs. If it doesn't work then I will have to fork out the $90 each for new ones.
Have you checked with RPM on the cost of a new set of carbs? I know that for a while he was selling off new carb sets at a very reasonable cost.
Quote from: the fan on May 18, 2015, 07:37:16 AM
Have you checked with RPM on the cost of a new set of carbs? I know that for a while he was selling off new carb sets at a very reasonable cost.
I have. The issue is our exchange rate and cost of postage from retails stores in the USA. We have to add 20% for the aussie dollar and usually $50 + for postage.
Hope the Plastidip work for you Ray. Mine are past the repair stage unfortunately. They are still working, but no sure how well or for how long. Trying to work a deal with fjfool at the moment.
Done selecting the Speedo, Tach and a dual Volt/Fuel Gauge. Just have to wait for payday now.
Quote from: Urban_Legend on May 17, 2015, 09:31:09 PMHi All
2. My speedo, tach and fuel gauge are not working as they should. So I have decided to bite the bullet and get all new gauges from Speed Hub and make up a whole new cluster. I know that I could probably get an OEM cluster for about the same price or cheaper, for I want to go a GPS speedo.
Urban_Legend,
You might want to check if a GPS speedo will pass your inspection laws, for that bike. The bike mileage may be an issue there.
If money counts, you might want to try lubricating the speedo cable (with lightweight black grease) or replacing it with a new one, if the core is damaged. These cables are still available. If the fuel gauge and tach are both acting up, try running a heavy ground wire from the battery negative terminal to the instrument cluster grounding points, temporarily. If that new ground wire fixes things, just repair the bad (probably corroded) ground connection in the instrument wiring.
Cheers,
Red
Quote from: X-Ray on May 18, 2015, 07:03:04 AM
I'm going to try the Plastidip method of fixing them. Good reports from people using this product for carb repairs. If it doesn't work then I will have to fork out the $90 each for new ones.
I used Plastidip a year ago and really wouldn't recommend it. You end up with lots of plastidip flakes after a little while. It may be down to the Ethanol in fuel now, because I did it 7 years ago on another FJ and it was fine...
New diaphragms will be like riding a new bike (assuming the old ones are knackered that is..). In the end I bought a used set of carbs from Ebay which had a decent set of diaphragms in which was lucky for me. That may be possible, but in my view the only sure way is a new set.
Quote from: mark1969 on May 18, 2015, 11:22:37 AM
Quote from: X-Ray on May 18, 2015, 07:03:04 AM
I'm going to try the Plastidip method of fixing them. Good reports from people using this product for carb repairs. If it doesn't work then I will have to fork out the $90 each for new ones.
I used Plastidip a year ago and really wouldn't recommend it. You end up with lots of plastidip flakes after a little while. It may be down to the Ethanol in fuel now, because I did it 7 years ago on another FJ and it was fine...
New diaphragms will be like riding a new bike (assuming the old ones are knackered that is..). In the end I bought a used set of carbs from Ebay which had a decent set of diaphragms in which was lucky for me. That may be possible, but in my view the only sure way is a new set.
I have not heard of anyone using "Plastidip" to fix them, but I have heard of people using a similar product called "Liquid Electrical Tape" with good results.
I am not sure how similar the products are? :unknown:
You might want to check if a GPS speedo will pass your inspection laws, for that bike. The bike mileage may be an issue there.
If money counts, you might want to try lubricating the speedo cable (with lightweight black grease) or replacing it with a new one, if the core is damaged. These cables are still available. If the fuel gauge and tach are both acting up, try running a heavy ground wire from the battery negative terminal to the instrument cluster grounding points, temporarily. If that new ground wire fixes things, just repair the bad (probably corroded) ground connection in the instrument wiring.
Cheers,
Red
[/quote]
I have a new speedo cable on the bike. The issue is the odometer which is way out. (Reads 3km for every 5km travelled) The inspection people do not seem to have an issue with the odometer having different readings. (this is the 2nd speedo in the bike) So I thought if I am going for an aftermarket speedo, I may as well get a full set of gauges and then they will all match. I will fit them up in a spare gauge housing that I have. The issue with my fuel gauge is the sender which I will have to replace as well. Also going for the GPS speedo in case the new front wheel that I get does not have a cable outlet (electronic)
Mark
That's also my plan Mark. I'm on my 3rd speedo and it's starting to act funny. I know well the warning signs.
Rather than getting it rebuilt I think I too will go the GPS route along with a matching tach and gas gauge.
I like Speed Hut's dual gauge setup but instead of going with a volt meter/gas gauge combo I'm going to ask them if I can get a oil temp/gas gauge combo. I like the idea of knowing my minimum oil temp when my oil gets to proper operating temp (190-200*) before I wind the 1350 out in the kookaloo zone. I don't care about max oil temp.
The eBay small rectangular red digital volt gauge will suffice for my charging status.
Mark, I will follow your mod closely. Take pictures. Remember to order the GPS speedo remote set button Tim (axiom-r) mentioned in his GPS write up.
Urban Legend...... I do believe that SpeedHut will program your actual up to date mileage when you order the Speedo.
Pat..... SpeedHut makes a 3 3/8" diameter oil temp/fuel gauge combo.
Fred
Pat, did you get any of your speedos rebuilt by the San Diego guys? Just got mine back, hope I didn't throw good money after bad ...
Thanks Fred, I'll look thru their website again....
Hey Ed, no, I've not had one rebuilt yet....
Over the years I've been collecting them (the low mileage ones) as they come up on FleaBay.
I know several folks who have used the San Diego Foreign Speedo folks for their FJ speedo rebuilds and they all speak very highly about their service.
No worries laddie.
Quote from: Pat Conlon on May 18, 2015, 05:12:01 PM
Mark, I will follow your mod closely. Take pictures. Remember to order the GPS speedo remote set button Tim (axiom-r) mentioned in his GPS write up.
You most definitely can specify an exact starting mileage and I think they will "certify" that on your order slip. Also recall that you can order a back light color other than white. White and blue are a bit bright red/orange can be close to stock.... Take your time trimming the threaded lock ring so that the gauge sits tight against the stock instrument bezel. If you don't get it seated in near flush, the clear plastic cover touches the gauge and does not go back on perfectly. Took me a few tries... Remote switch is key..
Cheers! tim
Sorry for slightly hijacking your thread Mark. But as there are only a couple of pinholes in 3 of the diaphragms plus a small tear on the lip of one, I'm thinking that PLastiDip or Liquid Electrical Tape would be a quick fix. But then again I'm not really into quick fixes when it comes to the FJ, so I'll probably end up forking out for new ones, :wacko1:
Problem with buying complete new ones it is very rarely the actual slide that needs replacing, these clean up like new. Just those pesky rubber bits at the top. :diablo:
Ok, Mark, have you looked at these? http://www.jbmindustries.com/Dimensions.html (http://www.jbmindustries.com/Dimensions.html) Should be model M-73.
I know someone on the forum here has used the JBM diaphrams, at the price I think I will give these a go first. One of the comments I read they are a little "stiffer" than the original rubbers, but still work well.
This is the style of gauges I am looking at getting.
Ray ...I looked at those last night. They might be worth a try. I would like a report, if you happen to get them.
Mark
Edit. Doh.....pics not going up as intended. will try again
Try This
Quote from: X-Ray on May 18, 2015, 10:12:34 PM
Ok, Mark, have you looked at these? http://www.jbmindustries.com/Dimensions.html (http://www.jbmindustries.com/Dimensions.html) Should be model M-73.
I know someone on the forum here has used the JBM diaphrams
If you want to check on how they are performing, I believe it was Mr Blackstock. He must have had them in for a couple of years by now.
Noel
Quote from: X-Ray on May 18, 2015, 09:37:17 PM
.....there are only a couple of pinholes in 3 of the diaphragms plus a small tear on the lip of one, I'm thinking that PLastiDip or Liquid Electrical Tape would be a quick fix.
I tried PlastiDip on another bike a while back, I never heard back from the owner, that could mean two things. It either worked perfectly and he has no need to come back, or, it clogged his carbies and is never coming near me again. :lol:
I've used it before where it comes in constant contact with petrol and it doesn't stand up well.
If doing another set I would try smearing a bit of RTV gasket maker over the holes. That stuff has all the qualities that should make it suitable for the job.
I have another set that a POOHM has just put a dollop of some sort of glue over the actual holes, it has well and truly stood the test of time and does not inhibit the action of the diaphragms.
In principle I am in favour of just fixing the holes, given the expense of new ones, after all if you fix the hole, there is nothing wrong with it.
Noel
I had a small tear in one of mine a while ago that I fixed with glue out of a bicycle tyre repair kit. I figured it being a rubber glue and the diaphrams a sort of rubber, what's the harm in trying.
Checked it at the shed day by pushing the slide up, held a finger over the big elongated hole at the top, let go of the slide, and the slide stayed there so it's obviously still holding.
I think the rubber type glues etc will work, but I'm guessing that if there are small holes and tears now, the old rubber will continue to deteriorate, theres no real stopping it. So for the small price of the new JBM rubbers, I'll order them and give a report when I have them. Might still be a short while before the Project '92 actually starts and runs, so that will be the real test. :good2:
Quote from: X-Ray on May 19, 2015, 06:21:51 AM
.....but I'm guessing that if there are small holes and tears now, the old rubber will continue to deteriorate, theres no real stopping it.
For sure nothing's going to beat new parts, but diaphragms have crease lines which is where the holes appear. The wear is not evenly distributed over the whole rubber. Fix the holes on the creases and you have extended their life by many miles.
But, if you want new parts, that is of course the best fix - at a price.
Noel
Quote from: ribbert on May 19, 2015, 05:11:35 AM
If doing another set I would try smearing a bit of RTV gasket maker over the holes. That stuff has all the qualities that should make it suitable for the job.
I wouldn't recommend RTV Silicone for this application, or for any fuel-type environment.
It will dissolve with fuel or fuel vapor contact. :negative:
Well things have progressed an little bit sincey last post on here. I am going on a bit of a road trip on Saturday with my son to pick up an 89 front end off Rover's (thanks again Richard) and it looks like I have just found and purchased a 96 GSXR1100 rear with most of the bits I need for $200.
Let the fun commence.
Mark
G'day,
I just popped onto the board to have a look around and read that you were working on ways to fix your carby diaphragms... as mentioned by another member, give thse guys a try: http://www.jbmindustries.com/ (http://www.jbmindustries.com/) I have ordered 8 in all, since 2012, 4x for the XJ650, and 4x for the FJ
For the FJ1100 I am pretty sure I ordered 4x BS36CV diaphragms at 73mm Outer Diameter.
I have had reason to look at the carbs numerous times over the years and I am very happy with the diaphragms. easy to install. I think Randy was not keen on the small amount of stiffness compared to stock, but I think he also noted that the stiffness mostly would affect air intake when the throttle was wide open. Not really an issue for me. Contact him to clarify though.
One set of 4 cost me $84 back in 2012,
Cheers, Gareth
Hi All
Thanks Gareth, I have looked into those diaphragms, but I have received an offer from another member for some good condition used diaphragms.
My new gauges have been ordered and are somewhere between mainland USA and Australia.
My new 89 FJ forks are getting a full "professional" rebuild and being fitted with Racetach Springs and emulators.
My "New" wheels have been striped and are being prepped for painting (one is grey and the other is red)
New brake rotors have been ordered and the callipers are getting refurbished.
I was not able to get everything with the GSXR rear and have had to order the spacers and calliper carrier.
In there future there will also be a new set of master cylinders (hope that will make the old girl stop)
Pic will follow as the work is completed.
Mark
I have just gotten my rims back from the powder coater, and I must say that I am happy with the result especially for the price ($120au to have the old paint stripped and then re-coated).
All of my new bits are turning up and hopefully soon I can start on the front suspension / wheel up grade. I love new stuff.
They look great Mark, Looks like your back wheel is off an early model gixxer going by the size markings etc on the rim, later models were on the spokes, trivial I know, but helps when ordering parts knowing your getting the right bits.
I am assuming it is from a 92 or earlier (that is what I am ordering parts for). The previous owner was now certain what model it came off. I know that post 92 they had straight spokes.
Mark
Quote from: Urban_Legend on May 19, 2015, 02:53:13 AM
Try This
Like this, both GPS speedo and tacho with shift lights, I wish I did this years ago
(http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag34/Bozo36/Mobile%20Uploads/P1020536_zpsgomxjnxg.jpg) (http://s1297.photobucket.com/user/Bozo36/media/Mobile%20Uploads/P1020536_zpsgomxjnxg.jpg.html)
That look unreal Bozo. I have gone to a new fuel gauge /volt metre too. It is all in transit, somewhere.
(popcorn) , lookin good!
Quote from: Urban_Legend on July 22, 2015, 09:24:42 AM
That look unreal Bozo. I have gone to a new fuel gauge /volt metre too. It is all in transit, somewhere.
Just curious, you are talking about using the speedhut gauges or some others. If you are using speedhut - which ones, I'd like to see the the volt and fuel gauge.
Quote from: Bozo on July 23, 2015, 05:39:25 AM
Quote from: Urban_Legend on July 22, 2015, 09:24:42 AM
That look unreal Bozo. I have gone to a new fuel gauge /volt metre too. It is all in transit, somewhere.
Just curious, you are talking about using the speedhut gauges or some others. If you are using speedhut - which ones, I'd like to see the the volt and fuel gauge.
Yes have ordered the Speedhut gauges. Will put up a photo when they arrive. Hopefully won't be too much longer. Been a few weeks on order now.( I know postage to Australia might take a while.)
JOHN!...(Bozo!) Great to see an Ashes God still Lurks. When are you over next? :drinks:
Quote from: The General on July 23, 2015, 07:49:07 AM
JOHN!...(Bozo!) Great to see an Ashes God still Lurks. When are you over next? :drinks:
Sorry to replay on this site but, the General haf spoken. Peasant replies -
Doug, great to hear from you, how is the lovely wife?. Once we know where and when we'll put it to the vote. Can't wait to see everyone again.
Sorry forgot Bella wants to drop by which means pick a straight road (no corners) what about the Hume hwy?
[quote author=Bozo
Once we know where and when we'll put it to the vote. Can't wait to see everyone again.
Sorry forgot Bella wants to drop by which means pick a straight road (no corners) what about the Hume hwy?
[/quote]
No word I've heard on where/when the Aussie FJ Rally will occur - waiting too.
However, if you're around in Nov, there's the Nowra 'Manshed' weekend. If you want straight road from wife's rellies to Nowra the Hume takes you most all the way.
That's not the route I plan on taking.
Cheers,
Arnie
Quote from: Arnie on July 24, 2015, 11:27:49 AM
[quote author=Bozo
Once we know where and when we'll put it to the vote. Can't wait to see everyone again.
Sorry forgot Bella wants to drop by which means pick a straight road (no corners) what about the Hume hwy?
No word I've heard on where/when the Aussie FJ Rally will occur - waiting too.
However, if you're around in Nov, there's the Nowra 'Manshed' weekend. If you want straight road from wife's rellies to Nowra the Hume takes you most all the way.
That's not the route I plan on taking.
Cheers,
Arnie
[/quote]
Thanks Arnie. It would be pretty amazing to have a WA visitor. Bozo, my Bro lives in Perth and has a much loved FJ1100. His FJowners name is Wingnut (Mark). He'd be amped to hook up with another FJ fan.
Installing a new ( old stock) blinker light switch set and tidying up some wiring while it's apart.
Quote from: Troyskie on July 24, 2015, 05:31:41 PM
Quote from: Arnie on July 24, 2015, 11:27:49 AM
[quote author=Bozo
Once we know where and when we'll put it to the vote. Can't wait to see everyone again.
Sorry forgot Bella wants to drop by which means pick a straight road (no corners) what about the Hume hwy?
No word I've heard on where/when the Aussie FJ Rally will occur - waiting too.
However, if you're around in Nov, there's the Nowra 'Manshed' weekend. If you want straight road from wife's rellies to Nowra the Hume takes you most all the way.
That's not the route I plan on taking.
Cheers,
Arnie
Thanks Arnie. It would be pretty amazing to have a WA visitor. Bozo, my Bro lives in Perth and has a much loved FJ1100. His FJowners name is Wingnut (Mark). He'd be amped to hook up with another FJ fan.
[/quote]
Crickey this thread is totally on another planet, Troyskie ask him to PM me
Crickey this thread is totally on another planet, Troyskie ask him to PM me
Hey Bozo (John?). I don't mind the od hijacking. It is how we meet new friends and find out stuff.
Mark
Quote from: Urban_Legend on July 25, 2015, 02:01:28 AM
Installing a new ( old stock) blinker light switch set and tidying up some wiring while it's apart.
Hey Mark, I'm looking for one of those for my '84. I like the 'flash to pass' feature on the non USA version.
Do you know if you can find any more of those switch assemblies?
Quote from: Pat Conlon on August 05, 2015, 04:09:51 PM
Quote from: Urban_Legend on July 25, 2015, 02:01:28 AM
Installing a new ( old stock) blinker light switch set and tidying up some wiring while it's apart.
Hey Mark, I'm looking for one of those for my '84. I like the 'flash to pass' feature on the non USA version.
Do you know if you can find any more of those switch assemblies?
Pat, I bought the same switch off ebay, mine had a wrong connector fitted so I got it cheap.
Quote from: Pat Conlon on August 05, 2015, 04:09:51 PM
Quote from: Urban_Legend on July 25, 2015, 02:01:28 AM
Installing a new ( old stock) blinker light switch set and tidying up some wiring while it's apart.
Hey Mark, I'm looking for one of those for my '84. I like the 'flash to pass' feature on the non USA version.
Do you know if you can find any more of those switch assemblies?
Hi (Again) Pat
I found my new switches incorrectly listed on eBay as a set for an FJ1200. I picked it form the choke switch on the side of it. It had been listed (29 day listings) 2 or three time. I was just lucky to find it. It was plug and play.
Mark
It has been a busy few weekends for me and the FJ. Last weekend I installed new gauges ( http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=14375.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=14375.0) ) and this weekend I have started on the 17" wheel conversion. I am still waiting on a few bits (forgot to order GSXR rear brake line) but I have fitted the back wheel up. Still not sure how I am going to do the brake torque arm. Seems to be shorter than the ones I have seen on this site (unless they were custom job. Finding a bracket to attach it seems to be the way to go. Will try a few machinery shops on Monday. I have posted a few pics. 1st pic is a before photo of the old wheel then the new wheel and a comparison shot.
Edit.....sorry for the sideways pics.
another Edit.... Hopefully I can get the "new" 89 FJ forks and front wheel on next weekend. The Callipers have been rebuilt and I am just waiting on some seals and it is all done and ready to install.
Hey.....I have the GSXR wheel and brakes fitted up. The torque are caused me a bit of concern, the I hit upon the idea of using a tie rod end. Quick trip to the local machinery store and with new tie rod end and a tap and die set in hand I went about finishing the job. I must say I impress myself sometimes (not hard to do :crazy: ) and it all works like a charm. The real test is when I ride the 150km to where is work this afternoon.
Mark
Aren't you a clever dick, a good bit of ingenuity there Mark. :good2: Your torque arm is a shorty, the one on mine is about 500mm long.
I dunno Mark, the swing arm wall thickness is awfully thin for the anchoring support of that tie rod end, and it's an aluminum thread.
The torque arm is going to want to pull that tie rod end piece back as the load transfers. I'm just not sure that the aluminum thread can take the recurring loading.
I would keep a close eye on it, for sure.....Gives me the heebie geebies.
Quote from: Pat Conlon on August 17, 2015, 01:48:51 AM
I dunno Mark, the swing arm wall thickness is awfully thin for the anchoring support of that tie rod end, and it's an aluminum thread.
The torque arm is going to want to pull that tie rod end piece back as the load transfers. I'm just not sure that the aluminum thread can take the recurring loading.
I would keep a close eye on it, for sure.....Gives me the heebie geebies.
I will be keeping an eye on it pat. I will also be putting a locknut and large washer to spread the load a bit. And if it starts to look dodge, I have a spare swing arm that I will get modified to suit.
Mark
That rod end thread in the aluminum is likely to fail from fatigue, as Pat pointed out. It is only a mater of time. However, you could fab up a steel bracket that takes the same rod end and also better distributes the load and still use the same swing arm. What is the thread size of the rod end? I can make a quick drawing of what I am thinking of and post it.
Quote from: FJmonkey on August 17, 2015, 04:01:01 AM
That rod end thread in the aluminum is likely to fail from fatigue, as Pat pointed out. It is only a mater of time. However, you could fab up a steel bracket that takes the same rod end and also better distributes the load and still use the same swing arm. What is the thread size of the rod end? I can make a quick drawing of what I am thinking of and post it.
That would be great thanks monkey. The thread was 10mm (metric) and bout 30mm long.
Quote from: Urban_Legend on August 17, 2015, 04:10:45 AM
That would be great thanks monkey. The thread was 10mm (metric) and bout 30mm long.
It looks like this. A simple plate with a an M10 nut welded to it. This will distribute the bending moment quite a bit to the two M6 fasteners at either end.
Excellent. Great work thanks FJmonkey
Quote from: FJmonkey on August 17, 2015, 04:35:01 AM
Quote from: Urban_Legend on August 17, 2015, 04:10:45 AM
That would be great thanks monkey. The thread was 10mm (metric) and bout 30mm long.
It looks like this. A simple plate with a an M10 nut welded to it. This will distribute the bending moment quite a bit to the two M6 fasteners at either end.
How would the plate mount to the swing arm?
I hope your intention for mounting it is not to just tap bolts into the thickness of the arm, there's a lot of force on that and it's not always gradual.
In fact, if you are going to use a plate, you could weld a piece of metal bar along the length of the plate with a hole through it an just bolt the arm to that, you don't need the Rose joint.
The joint, screwed into a nut, welded to a plate, bolted onto the arm is making this way more complicated than it needs to be and just adds more leverage. Knowing the forces at play here I would bite the bullet and get a lug welded to it. Go through in you mind what would happen if it let go at speed on the road.
Noel
We can get this right. I have a spare swing arm, and I am thinking I get a lug welded to the appropriate location and eliminate the heim joint altogether, but that might take a while till it can get done.(have to fine someone who can weld alloy). I think monkeys fix is a good one for the interim.
Edit....I would have taken more time to get it right, but needed the bike back on the road as a daily driver. I do know this will cost me more in doller terms in the long run.
Quote from: Pat Conlon on August 05, 2015, 04:09:51 PM
Quote from: Urban_Legend on July 25, 2015, 02:01:28 AM
Installing a new ( old stock) blinker light switch set and tidying up some wiring while it's apart.
Hey Mark, I'm looking for one of those for my '84. I like the 'flash to pass' feature on the non USA version.
Do you know if you can find any more of those switch assemblies?
If you're not fussy about the labeling of the switch and are OK changing the connector the 84-93 Venture has the same switchgear with that switch. It's just labelled "PTT". It's used for push to talk on the bikes intercom.
I'm using the rh switch gear to install the Venture cruise control on my 89:
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r618/justonepict/5AABE3C0-7054-4CF3-9D6A-35F2662C16C6_zpsrxe8h13n.jpg)
Switchgear: http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=14372.msg145061#msg145061 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=14372.msg145061#msg145061)
Sorry for the little OT.....:)
Just cut the original mounting lug off the top. Bolt it to the arm you are using. And put it up to the Swingarm on the bottom tack it in place. Remove the arm and finish welding it and you are done.
I used rivet nuts to mount the arm anchor point. The aluminum swing arms already have some installed from the factory. Installing them without the tool is a little tricky but it can be done.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-rivet-nuts/=yj8ygy (http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-rivet-nuts/=yj8ygy)
(https://d2t1xqejof9utc.cloudfront.net/screenshots/pics/75b748b7322910341ea24475ea7ea40f/medium.jpg)
All this talk about drilling holes in swing arms, cutting tabs and welding, and adding rivnuts. :flag_of_truce:
Why are we re-inventing the wheel here? :pardon:
There is a great thread in the files section for the GSXR wheel mod. If you follow it word for word, it is not any more difficult than removing and installing the OEM wheel. For the torque arm, use the LONG torque arm as the mod file suggests. The torque arm comes with a Heim joint type end that a 6mm bolt and a 3/8 inch thick spacer will attach to a already threaded hole in the main steel frame.
Fred
See if I can post a picture of the Swingarm with the tab I cut off the top(ready made and cleans up the Swingarm) and welded to the bottom. I also used the arm from my bent FZR1000.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/3/2349_28_06_12_10_59_59.jpeg)
Or you can use 92 gsxr-600 wheel. With the brake bracket from the 92 gsxr 600 and eliminate the torque arm altogether. Like I did later on both the 86fj1350r, and the 89 fj1200. I have enough of the bar that I had made for the tab that goes on the inside of the Swingarm. For several more Swingarms.
Here is a picture of the fj1350r with the 600 brake no torque arm
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/7/2349_12_07_14_5_44_02_0.jpeg)
Hi all. To allay everyone's fears.for my safety (mine also now) the bike is booked in on Thursday the have a lug welded onto the swing arm for a secure mounting point. Happy days. :flag_of_truce:
Mark
Good decision. :good:
Quote from: aviationfred on August 17, 2015, 10:02:09 AM
All this talk about drilling holes in swing arms, cutting tabs and welding, and adding rivnuts. :flag_of_truce:
Why are we re-inventing the wheel here? :pardon:
There is a great thread in the files section for the GSXR wheel mod. If you follow it word for word, it is not any more difficult than removing and installing the OEM wheel. For the torque arm, use the LONG torque arm as the mod file suggests. The torque arm comes with a Heim joint type end that a 6mm bolt and a 3/8 inch thick spacer will attach to a already threaded hole in the main steel frame.
Fred
OK Fred, I've never been able to get my head around this. To my thinking, if the brake stay is mounted to the frame, the caliper will rotate as the swing arm rises and falls, but isn't that clamped solidly between the hub and the swing arm - or is that just on mine or am I missing something?
Noel
Quote from: ribbert on August 18, 2015, 08:18:20 AM
OK Fred, I've never been able to get my head around this. To my thinking, if the brake stay is mounted to the frame, the caliper will rotate as the swing arm rises and falls, but isn't that clamped solidly between the hub and the swing arm - or is that just on mine or am I missing something?
Noel
Actually the brake hanger is able to rotate on the spacer that is concentric to the axle.
This is supposed to isolate the braking from the rise and fall of the wheel. I think its a carryover from the internally expanding drum brakes that had solid rod actuation.
Arnie
Quote from: Arnie on August 18, 2015, 09:43:04 AM
Quote from: ribbert on August 18, 2015, 08:18:20 AM
OK Fred, I've never been able to get my head around this. To my thinking, if the brake stay is mounted to the frame, the caliper will rotate as the swing arm rises and falls, but isn't that clamped solidly between the hub and the swing arm - or is that just on mine or am I missing something?
Noel
Actually the brake hanger is able to rotate on the spacer that is concentric to the axle.
This is supposed to isolate the braking from the rise and fall of the wheel. I think its a carryover from the internally expanding drum brakes that had solid rod actuation.
Arnie
Haha, clear as mud Arnie. I can see how it would rotate on the wheel side, but what about the swing arm side. When I tighten the axle, the hanger is clamped tight against the swing arm.
Noel
Quote from: ribbert on August 18, 2015, 08:18:20 AM
Quote from: aviationfred on August 17, 2015, 10:02:09 AM
OK Fred, I've never been able to get my head around this. To my thinking, if the brake stay is mounted to the frame, the caliper will rotate as the swing arm rises and falls, but isn't that clamped solidly between the hub and the swing arm - or is that just on mine or am I missing something?
Noel
I did a minute of research and so far have come up with not much to answer your question. I did find this.
Rear brake torque link
A link is generally used to anchor the backing plate or caliper against rotation. This link can be in either direction in theory, but operating in tension is stronger, more reliable, and safer. A tension link is attached to the backing plate below the axle center, and runs forward. Heim (rose) joints are only needed to permit minor misalignment without cocking
if the backing plate can move axially, but the link is attached to the swing-arm. If the backing plate is floated on a bushing or bearing and only rotates, the link can be simply bolted in place. However, the forward ("dead") end of the link will exert bending force on the swing-arm, which is why the link is generally long enough to almost reach the forward end of the swing-arm, which reduces the deflection. A better method is to "float" the forward end of the link as well, with a second Heim joint bolted to the chassis itself. This will affect the rear suspension under braking and the link is generally parallel to the swing-arm to minimize the effect, although alternate positions for the forward attachment bracket giving slight departure angle (non-parallel) will allow subtle changes in rear suspension for more tuning choices.
Below is the same link made adjustable with a simple fabricated bracket welded to the chassis at a conventinet point. The hole pattern should be a shallow arc to maintain link length in all positions. Click to see larger views.
Fred
This was answered earlier this year Noel, Oldtimers must be setting in :biggrin:
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=13658.msg138354#msg138354 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=13658.msg138354#msg138354)
Yes Noel I'm with you. If the front mounting point is not exactly in line with the pivot point of the Swingarm. It will push and pull on the brake bracket as the Swingarm goes to through it's arc.
And the length how far forward or back of the pivot point would change how much it would push pull.
Let's try a little exercise. Take 3 dowels (pencils, pens whatever) one being the Swingarm longer, shorter for the torque arm . and a really short one for the brake bracket. Tape them together with the short (brake bracket) in-between the mid (torque arm) and long (Swingarm). With the torque arm slightly forward of the Swingarm arm pivot end. (Like it would be on the fj) now rotate Swingarm on its pivot.the front mounting point on the torque arm will push forward and backward significantly.
Now Fred's explanation mounting the arrm so it has pivot ends might work. If you make bracket. With the correct offset from the pivot point of the Swingarm. But trying to replicate that with dowels. Still seems to push forward and backward some.
Besides I bet no one ever bothered to figure that out.
If the brake bracket had a bearing between it and the Swingarm it wouldn't matter.
Maybe it's not that much. And the rubber bushing on the pivot mount for the torque arm and the brake bracket gives enough forward and backward enough.
So maybe I'm missing something and am completely wrong.
So I'll just mount it to the Swingarm so I don't have to worry about it. :dash2: :flag_of_truce:
Quote from: giantkiller on August 17, 2015, 10:28:28 AM
See if I can post a picture of the Swingarm with the tab I cut off the top(ready made and cleans up the Swingarm) and welded to the bottom. I also used the arm from my bent FZR1000.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/3/2349_28_06_12_10_59_59.jpeg)
Or you can use 92 gsxr-600 wheel. With the brake bracket from the 92 gsxr 600 and eliminate the torque arm altogether. Like I did later on both the 86fj1350r, and the 89 fj1200. I have enough of the bar that I had made for the tab that goes on the inside of the Swingarm. For several more Swingarms.
Here is a picture of the fj1350r with the 600 brake no torque arm
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/7/2349_12_07_14_5_44_02_0.jpeg)
Just reposted so everyone can see again that perfect 86
Jeff
Thanks Jeff, not so perfect. It's no trailer queen. I beat the crap out of it. And not done changing it yet. But it is definitely an awesome machine.
I have moditis really bad. :wacko3:
Initially I held the same opinion as Noel regarding the caliper bracket. Some of them pivot and others don't. So if you have a mounting bracket without a bearing, it will not rotate on the axle. One of the members of this forum, who shall remain nameless, kept breaking his caliper stay bolt. It was because the stay was attached to the frame of the bike. When the swing arm moved through its travel, it overloaded the bolt and it snapped. When the proper caliper stay was installed, ( The one with a bearing) the bolts no longer snapped , as it allowed the caliper to pivot. I have a complete FZ 1 swing arm with underslung caliper and the stay ( arm ) is attached to the swing arm. This caliper bracket will NOT rotate.
Quote from: giantkiller on August 18, 2015, 05:07:16 PM
Thanks Jeff, not so perfect. It's no trailer queen. I beat the crap out of it. And not done changing it yet. But it is definitely an awesome machine.
I have moditis really bad. :wacko3:
Moditis is so easy to catch and very hard to shake. I am getting to the stage where there is not of the original bike left. After the front end swp next weekend the only original bits will be the frame and the fuel tank. Everything else is either from a different FJ or different type of bike or aftermarket.
Mark
Quote from: ribbert on August 18, 2015, 08:18:20 AM
OK Fred, I've never been able to get my head around this.
Noel
OK, FJ Johnnie, Bones, Giantkiller, Arnie, Fred, everyone is right, the confusion lies in talking about different different things.
It is a geometric fact that if your brake arm is connected to the frame, the caliper must be allowed to rotate.
So, with the axle tight, if the design of the hanger allows the caliper to rotate, you can mount the arm on the frame (or swing arm)
If, the hanger is designed to lock up when the axle is tightened, like mine, the brake arm
must be mounted on the swing arm.
It seems with the 17" conversions and a number of different donor bikes, we have a mixture of both. I for example have an FZR600R assembly that clamps tight.
Don't you love a happy ending.
Noel
I love a happy ending Noel.
With the Calliper hanger (carrier) on my conversion (92 GSXR), the hanger is movable with the axel tightened.
Mark
:gamer:
All fixed now. Just needs to be painted.
Looking good....
Hopefully now a can get the refurbished 89 FJ front end onbthis weekend. Looking forward to decent brakes and suspension.
Well the front end is fitted up and the brakes are bleed. How ever I forgot one tiny detail, I didn't get a new brake leave for the 89 master cylinder. I discovered my old 84 MC wasn't up to the task and may have been the cause of some of my braking issues.
Looking good....
Hello fellow FJer's. Here is a bit of a build report.
Well today I finally managed to take the bike for a ride with all the new bits (only about 20km). Now, how do I put this. Ummmmm........ Holy Sh#t. F&*k me. Wow!. Last year I used to own a 2004 Triumph Sprint ST with all the fruit. The old FJ now handles and stops every bit as good. To put it into perspective. I was coming up to a stop sign in a 100km (65mile) speed zone, and as an experiment, I applied the brake where I used to with the original brakes......and.....I stopped nearly a full 20m short of the sign. 20m shorter stopping distance is a HUGE improvement. And with the old brakes I was using all fingers to apply the brakes, now 2 fingers easy. Only now do I really understand how crap by brakes were. So the brakes now are - Fully rebuilt 89 FJ callipers with new pistions and seal plus HH pads and new disc rotor and a FJR (at least this is what Richard - Roverfj1200 - thought it was) Master Cylinder.
The front suspension (89FJ items donated from Richard, thanks again mate) with the Racetech springs and Gold emulators, now feels planted and confident. In Short it is a whole new and different bike to ride . I think the bike might stand a little taller now too, because the side stand now seems way too short. It always seemed short, but even more so now. I will add a bit to the bottom of the stand in the near future, but for now I am one happy camper. Next job now is to give the motor a bit of a freshen up.
In the meantime, keep it shiny side up guys :yahoo:
Mark
It has been a big day in the "Oily Rag Garage". i have finally got one of Randy's detent shift kits installed and just need to take it for a test ride now. Checked to clutch while it was out, and it still looks in good shape (though i no expert in such things). The old girl also got some nice fresh oil and i bleed the clutch and rear brake (had no feel at all - much better now).
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/9/4336_31_10_15_5_12_53_2.jpeg)
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/9/4336_31_10_15_5_12_56_3.jpeg)
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/9/4336_31_10_15_5_12_51_1.jpeg)
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/9/4336_31_10_15_5_12_48_0.jpeg)
Since my last post on this project i have also given the carbies a quick overhaul to try and make the bike a bit more responsive. I think i have achieved this.
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=14676.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=14676.0)
I am also trying to save some dollars to get a 1200 motor and a 1200 parts bike. (moditis is a curse sometimes)
I am getting there slowly with all of my objectives with this bike, and every change i make to her is an improvement.
Mark
Hey All.
Been a while since I put anything up about the old girl. Not much to say unfortunately not much has changed. I have been working on contract which may give me more money, but I am usually knackered by the weekends and as such I am doing less riding. The bike has had a few unfortunate events happen to it, like losing the center nut from the triple clamp. don't ask me how. It was there before I went for a ride with Klavdy and Handsome Pom and not there when i got home. Another thing to happen was when i had the fairing off to fix a dodgy wire my step son (aged 6 ) ran into the shed chasing the cat and stood on an broke my screen. I was not a happy camper, but it is replaceable and he later apologized, so one new screen is now on order.
In preparation for our Aussie FJ Rally I have decided to put some clear wrap on the tank to protect it from scratches from my tank bag and some Carbon Fibre look wrap for my fairing to hide on previous sins. After fighting with the plastic for 4 hours it is on. I am not really happy with the result but it will do for the time being.