Hello All, long time no see. My bad...
I took a short ride yesterday when all of a sudden, the engine was cutting in and out causing a bucking bronco ride. I got her home and checked the battery voltage. It was 11.9v so I put it on the charger overnight. Now the battery is at full charge so I started her up. Long story short, my charging system is not working. I see voltage dropping off quickly.
So can anyone offer a clue as to where I should start first? Manual says I should take apart the generator and test the stator and voltage regulator. Before I do that, should I check out anything else that might be the culprit?
Thanks in advance,
CraigO
Quote from: craigo on February 07, 2015, 11:13:43 AMLong story short, my charging system is not working. I see voltage dropping off quickly.
So can anyone offer a clue as to where I should start first? Manual says I should take apart the generator and test the stator and voltage regulator. Before I do that, should I check out anything else that might be the culprit? Thanks in advance,
CraigO
CraigO,
Dirty battery terminals can keep a battery from charging. The gray powdery corrosion that you may see there will act like an electrical insulator. Clean them with a wire "toothbrush." You want bright-metal to bright-metal contact, there. Use new battery bolts, if you can get them. Battery stores should have some, if the bike shop does not.
I do not have a wiring diagram for your bike, but there may be a fuse between the battery and charging system. If so, replace that fuse, good or bad (trust me). Any fuse contacts (or any connectors in that line) also need to be clean and bright. Use contact cleaner, and join then separate each connector several times. If a connector has melted, which does happen on the FJs, you can get new factory-type connectors from several on-line electrical specialists.
Cheers,
Red
Thanks for the reply Red. Call the connectors are clean and as new.
(https://scontent-b-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/10984052_10205937119931271_5629194170145702378_n.jpg?oh=7bd8ff7a8940701bfd2a389f9b3945c0&oe=55696BD5)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/10390419_10205937217293705_7906531983990881360_n.jpg?oh=8be1b9266436a10d462042e3368d6f11&oe=554E5001&__gda__=1435725156_5e728cbfbaf6d361112cf14c8880e28c)
I'll look into the fuse issue.
CraigO
Did you pull the red one apart that is in your pic, and look at its internals?
Is someone nearby you that has a known good generator, that you can swap yours out with, and see if the problem lies within your generator? Its very little work to do it. You may have to go into (take the generator's end cap off) and do resistance checks between the rectifier and regulator's pins to determine if there's a problem with either. There are other tests too, such as for open/broken windings, worn brushes, and such too, while you have the end cap off.
I don't think there's a fuse inline anywhere for the charging system.
Just replaced that connector with new. Same problem. :cray:
Looks like a new generator is in order.
Thanks again for the help.
CraigO
Craig, Steve likely has a spare working generator you could use to test before you pull the trigger on a new one. I call him and confirm.
Thanks Mark, really appreciate that. Was going for a ride today but this put the kabash on that. :dash1:
I spoke with Randy @ RPM and he walked me through the test process. The problem is in the generator. He's checking to see if he has a spare one in his shed. If so, I'll most likely buy one from him. :dance2:
Hope you're doing well. I need to look at this site more often.
CraigO
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10959417_10205946392163071_3820542024980062918_n.jpg?oh=a03453354d48008616c90117108552d0&oe=55546709&__gda__=1431239004_d21b398425cddb36cd8fb95205b0b0b6)
Came apart without to much struggle. Even having to work on the garage floor. As I get older, those lifts look more and more appealing.
CraigO
What did you find out ? Alternator or regulator ? Looks like a soft floor to me :good2:.
George
A tip I got from a Honda Mec 3 months ago to check a stator on my Honda Shadow. Since the FJ uses the same battery charging physics it should work. At first I thought Hmmm but then tried it out and it was true.
Start the bike, using jumper cables from a good source (but no battery in the bike circuit) and bring it up to 2500 rpms. Remove the jumper cables. Expect a drop in rpm's but the bike should still run .
IMPORTANT. Only let the bike run for a few seconds. If it runs after jumper cables are removed the Stator is OK and its time to check the regulator/rectifier with a Ohmn meter
The Rectifier and stator are both shot. I used the Yamaha factory service manual and the Haynes manual tests. Both with the same results. Just be cheaper to get a good used generator and be done with it.
CraigO
Quote from: wildfire on February 08, 2015, 09:39:05 PM
A tip I got from a Honda Mec 3 months ago to check a stator on my Honda Shadow. Since the FJ uses the same battery charging physics it should work. At first I thought Hmmm but then tried it out and it was true.
Start the bike, using jumper cables from a good source (but no battery in the bike circuit) and bring it up to 2500 rpms. Remove the jumper cables. Expect a drop in rpm's but the bike should still run .
IMPORTANT. Only let the bike run for a few seconds. If it runs after jumper cables are removed the Stator is OK and its time to check the regulator/rectifier with a Ohmn meter
That wasn't a tip, it was a recipe for disaster.
NEVER, EVER, disconnect the battery on a running motor.
Why do you think he said it was important to only do it for a few seconds? Because the risk starts the instant you disconnect the battery.
The older the vehicle (less sensitive electronics) the more likely you are to get away with it but that is all you are doing, getting away with it. Then one day you get caught and fry everything. If the regulator is affected, the voltage can reach many times the 12v the system is rated for.
It's not even a conclusive test, if the motor cuts out the instant you disconnect the battery it could be because you just cooked some other component.
Our FJ's don't have a lot of sensitive electronics which just minimises the risk, it doesn't eliminate it but they do have an ECU and an alternator.
Do it on a modern car and God help you, same goes for accidentally putting jumper leads on the wrong terminals.
There are some here who may rebuff this warning because of the source (perhaps they should :biggrin:) or because they have gotten away with it in the past, but this is important, if in doubt, look it up. I'm sure any reference you find will tell you the same thing.
While trying to stay away from mechanical issues on the forum, I would hate to see this adopted as the new quickie test for alternators.
Noel
Quote from: ribbert on February 09, 2015, 03:05:13 AM
Quote from: wildfire on February 08, 2015, 09:39:05 PM
A tip I got from a Honda Mec 3 months ago to check a stator on my Honda Shadow. Since the FJ uses the same battery charging physics it should work. At first I thought Hmmm but then tried it out and it was true.
Start the bike, using jumper cables from a good source (but no battery in the bike circuit) and bring it up to 2500 rpms. Remove the jumper cables. Expect a drop in rpm's but the bike should still run .
IMPORTANT. Only let the bike run for a few seconds. If it runs after jumper cables are removed the Stator is OK and its time to check the regulator/rectifier with a Ohmn meter
That wasn't a tip, it was a recipe for disaster. NEVER, EVER, disconnect the battery on a running motor.
Why do you think he said it was important to only do it for a few seconds? Because the risk starts the instant you disconnect the battery.
The older the vehicle (less sensitive electronics) the more likely you are to get away with it but that is all you are doing, getting away with it. Then one day you get caught and fry everything. If the regulator is affected, the voltage can reach many times the 12v the system is rated for.
It's not even a conclusive test, if the motor cuts out the instant you disconnect the battery it could be because you just cooked some other component.
Our FJ's don't have a lot of sensitive electronics which just minimises the risk, it doesn't eliminate it but they do have an ECU and an alternator.
Do it on a modern car and God help you, same goes for accidentally putting jumper leads on the wrong terminals.
There are some here who may rebuff this warning because of the source (perhaps they should :biggrin:) or because they have gotten away with it in the past, but this is important, if in doubt, look it up. I'm sure any reference you find will tell you the same thing.
While trying to stay away from mechanical issues on the forum, I would hate to see this adopted as the new quickie test for alternators.
Noel
I did give the short version and I was already aware that a electrical charge has to go somewhere.. He is head bike mechanic at Honda for 20 years and he warned of potential disasters and must ONLY be done if you have narrowed it down to definately rectifier/regulator or stator and for no other reason.If the r/r is bad the charge from the stator can equally cause damage to electrical components. If the stator is bad it will only make minimal or no charge and the bike engine will stop running..
As you said never to be done on an engine with numerous electronics.
Quote from: ribbert on February 09, 2015, 03:05:13 AM
Quote from: wildfire on February 08, 2015, 09:39:05 PM
A tip I got from a Honda Mec 3 months ago to check a stator on my Honda Shadow. Since the FJ uses the same battery charging physics it should work. At first I thought Hmmm but then tried it out and it was true.
Start the bike, using jumper cables from a good source (but no battery in the bike circuit) and bring it up to 2500 rpms. Remove the jumper cables. Expect a drop in rpm's but the bike should still run .
IMPORTANT. Only let the bike run for a few seconds. If it runs after jumper cables are removed the Stator is OK and its time to check the regulator/rectifier with a Ohmn meter
That wasn't a tip, it was a recipe for disaster. NEVER, EVER, disconnect the battery on a running motor.
Why do you think he said it was important to only do it for a few seconds? Because the risk starts the instant you disconnect the battery.
The older the vehicle (less sensitive electronics) the more likely you are to get away with it but that is all you are doing, getting away with it. Then one day you get caught and fry everything. If the regulator is affected, the voltage can reach many times the 12v the system is rated for.
It's not even a conclusive test, if the motor cuts out the instant you disconnect the battery it could be because you just cooked some other component.
Our FJ's don't have a lot of sensitive electronics which just minimises the risk, it doesn't eliminate it but they do have an ECU and an alternator.
Do it on a modern car and God help you, same goes for accidentally putting jumper leads on the wrong terminals.
There are some here who may rebuff this warning because of the source (perhaps they should :biggrin:) or because they have gotten away with it in the past, but this is important, if in doubt, look it up. I'm sure any reference you find will tell you the same thing.
While trying to stay away from mechanical issues on the forum, I would hate to see this adopted as the new quickie test for alternators.
Noel
I too, read the "pull the battery" advice and cringed. With all the options for charging/using battery banks on the sailboat, I rewired and installed switches that make it very difficult to "break before make" the connections while the diesel engine is running.
Yes, NEVER disconnect your battery on a running engine...your charging system will go into "full tilt boogie" and smoke shit...
Like your voltage regulator to start with, then connectors, then....
Remember fellas we are talking about only doing this on an determined unhealthy charging system( never do it for any other reason) with a stator independant of r/r not a alternator whose regulator is integral. Usually the r/r will fail first or perform badly causing the stator to work harder and burn out..
On second thoughts I should not have suggested this unless someone is aware of the stator r/r communication and function and most importantly what electronics are self load dependent.
If it doubt leave it out.
The only thing I can say is to install a digital voltmeter on the FJ so in the future you can see if it overcharging, undercharging and the battery voltage with the key on. It beats me why on the newer FJ's Yamaha elected to put a LCD clock in the cluster rather than a voltmeter. But that's how it is. Small digital meter's are super cheap on e bay.
George
Quote from: movenon on February 09, 2015, 12:34:39 PM
It beats me why on the newer FJ's Yamaha elected to put a LCD clock in the cluster rather than a voltmeter. But that's how it is.
George
That's so you can note your battery's time of death. :biggrin:
In the past my batteries have died suddenly...without warning. I do not have a voltmeter but wonder if a voltmeter would have predicted their death? I do know "in the past" I have boiled my batteries dry on long rides.
I say "in the past" for a reason. Funny, but I have never had a sudden battery failure since I installed the Transpo (adjustable) VR. I set the max. charging voltage to 14.2 volts.
Yea, funny about the oem clock. I would have passed on the clock, but I wish I had a dollar for every time I reached for that ever elusive 6th gear...
Randy is working on a solution* for that...and I'm first in line.
*A mechanical switch that replaces your neutral switch with a small rectangular LED read out you can glue on the bottom of your tach. face. (Yes, I know he is selling a 2" gauge they use in their race cars, but I don't want that...and it is $$ expensive)
"In the past my batteries have died suddenly...without warning. I do not have a voltmeter but wonder if a voltmeter would have predicted their death? I do know "in the past" I have boiled my batteries dry on long rides."
As to predicting death I am not sure.
But the first thing is when you turn the ignition on you can read your resting voltage . If you are reading 12.7 with a new battery and over time is drops to lets say 12.5 volts then that's an indicator perhaps the battery isn't holding a charge or ? . I am just picking a number when I say 12.7 because it depends on where you have the meter tapped into and the type of battery you are running but you would have your own "standard" to reference to.
Second is the charging voltage. Let say in your case it jumps up to 14.2 volts and doesn't come down to a normal operating voltage lets say 13.5-13.8 volts then I would conclude that the battery is weak and not taking a charge. At 14.2 volts +- the alternator is trying to make up for what the battery is lacking. Your charging voltage should drop slightly after 10-20 min of riding with a good battery.
Now if the voltage jumps up to 14.8 and then 15 volts (and in my last case 15.2 volts) then your regulator is probably failing. Over charging the battery boiling it out, heating up that little red connector plug and wire going to the battery, generally not good... Yamaha spec's 15 volts max.
If the charging voltage drops below 13 volts then you might have a problem with the charging system (alternator failing?).
I know you know all this shit Pat :). What I tried to say was for the others that are not as aware. With the low price of those digital meters on e bay at 5-10.00 it is a good mod. .
I have also converted to an adjustable regulator. 29.00 dollars plus some shipping.
http://store.alternatorparts.com/ib303-voltage-regulator-for-bosch-alternators.aspx (http://store.alternatorparts.com/ib303-voltage-regulator-for-bosch-alternators.aspx)
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=661.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=661.0)
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/7/1651_30_04_14_9_17_34.jpeg)
George
Thanks George, as usual, good stuff... :good:
Quote from: Pat Conlon on February 09, 2015, 01:37:58 PM
.......or that ever elusive 6th gear...
Randy is working on a solution* for that...and I'm first in line.
*A mechanical switch that replaces your neutral switch with a small rectangular LED read out you can glue on the bottom of your tach. face. (Yes, I know he is selling a 2" gauge they use in their race cars, but I don't want that...and it is $$ expensive)
Pat, from memory, it wouldn't be too difficult to put another contact on the neutral switch and have that light up when you hit 5th. (Or you could look at the tacho :biggrin:)
I would think most people only ever use gear indicators in the top 2 gears anyway, which on 6 speeds is very close.
I can't imagine anyone checking their progress through the lower gears.
Noel
Noel
I always felt that "hunting for sixth" was a great thing...There is so much pull even in fifth that you think you're in fourth!
I have a bit of a chant...to Noel's point. "thirty-five is fifty-five!" That is to say that, in fifth, 3500 is around 55 MPH on the speedo. Keeps me from hunting for the higher gear that isn't there. :good2:
Quote from: ribbert on February 09, 2015, 03:05:13 AM
Quote from: wildfire on February 08, 2015, 09:39:05 PM
A tip I got from a Honda Mec 3 months ago to check a stator on my Honda Shadow....
Start the bike, using jumper cables from a good source (but no battery in the bike circuit) and bring it up to 2500 rpms. Remove the jumper cables. Expect a drop in rpm's but the bike should still run .
IMPORTANT. Only let the bike run for a few seconds.
That wasn't a tip, it was a recipe for disaster. NEVER, EVER, disconnect the battery on a running motor.
WOW! There are far better electrical troubleshooting and diagnostic methods than this. Especially when the problem and been somewhat localized already.
Here's a tip for those that have no working fuel gauge.
Next time you think you may need fuel, drop a lit match into the tank to verify it
(only kidding)
Quote from: FJ_Hooligan on February 09, 2015, 09:27:51 PM
Quote from: ribbert on February 09, 2015, 03:05:13 AM
Quote from: wildfire on February 08, 2015, 09:39:05 PM
A tip I got from a Honda Mec 3 months ago to check a stator on my Honda Shadow....
Start the bike, using jumper cables from a good source (but no battery in the bike circuit) and bring it up to 2500 rpms. Remove the jumper cables. Expect a drop in rpm's but the bike should still run .
IMPORTANT. Only let the bike run for a few seconds.
That wasn't a tip, it was a recipe for disaster. NEVER, EVER, disconnect the battery on a running motor.
WOW! There are far better electrical troubleshooting and diagnostic methods than this. Especially when the problem and been somewhat localized already.
Here's a tip for those that have no working fuel gauge.
Next time you think you may need fuel, drop a lit match into the tank to verify it
(only kidding)
Weird comparison . But do tell if your r/r is defunct where does the charge from the stator go?
Quote from: wildfire on February 09, 2015, 11:48:02 PM
Quote from: FJ_Hooligan on February 09, 2015, 09:27:51 PM
Quote from: ribbert on February 09, 2015, 03:05:13 AM
Quote from: wildfire on February 08, 2015, 09:39:05 PM
A tip I got from a Honda Mec 3 months ago to check a stator on my Honda Shadow....
Start the bike, using jumper cables from a good source (but no battery in the bike circuit) and bring it up to 2500 rpms. Remove the jumper cables. Expect a drop in rpm's but the bike should still run .
IMPORTANT. Only let the bike run for a few seconds.
That wasn't a tip, it was a recipe for disaster. NEVER, EVER, disconnect the battery on a running motor.
WOW! There are far better electrical troubleshooting and diagnostic methods than this. Especially when the problem and been somewhat localized already.
Here's a tip for those that have no working fuel gauge.
Next time you think you may need fuel, drop a lit match into the tank to verify it
(only kidding)
Weird comparison . But do tell if your r/r is defunct where does the charge from the stator go?
The charge can't go anywhere but but the stator/alternator is still producing energy. This energy has to go somewhere. The somewhere is HEAT. That is why your test ( which could be used on some vehicles 40-50 yrs old without electronics) would not be run more than a few seconds. Alternators heat up quite fast if there is no way to discharge their energy. Dave
Quote from: craigo on February 09, 2015, 12:52:17 AM
The Rectifier and stator are both shot. I used the Yamaha factory service manual and the Haynes manual tests. Both with the same results. Just be cheaper to get a good used generator and be done with it.
CraigO
How much life is left in a second hand alternator?
Have you considered getting it reco'd by an auto electrician? This is an option many forget about and is very cost effective, and you know what your starting with. I recently had a quote on one, $120 including bearings vs $1300 for a new one (BMW)
Noel
Quote from: TexasDave on February 10, 2015, 12:04:46 AM
The charge can't go anywhere but but the stator/alternator is still producing energy. This energy has to go somewhere. The somewhere is HEAT. That is why your test ( which could be used on some vehicles 40-50 yrs old without electronics) would not be run more than a few seconds. Alternators heat up quite fast if there is no way to discharge their energy. Dave
[/quote]
Dave, I can't agree with you on this one, depending on your system, the charge will find a way to ground, which in the absence of the battery will be the path of least resistance, your most sensitive electronics.
The alternator is not a storage device, it can't accumulate power and dissipate all of it as heat. Yes, it will probably get hot before it finds somewhere to arc to though.
Not being a naturally occurring problem but an induced one, what happens, when it happens, how often it happens, what voltages are reached and why you can get away with sometimes and not others is to some extent speculation and not the subject of in depth research.
These days, most people will simply say, "don't do it". End of discussion.
It's bad practice and not necessary nor worth taking the risk.
Noel
Quote from: ribbert on February 10, 2015, 05:01:31 AM
Quote from: TexasDave on February 10, 2015, 12:04:46 AM
The charge can't go anywhere but but the stator/alternator is still producing energy. This energy has to go somewhere. The somewhere is HEAT. That is why your test ( which could be used on some vehicles 40-50 yrs old without electronics) would not be run more than a few seconds. Alternators heat up quite fast if there is no way to discharge their energy. Dave
Dave, I can't agree with you on this one, depending on your system, the charge will find a way to ground, which in the absence of the battery will be the path of least resistance, your most sensitive electronics.
The alternator is not a storage device, it can't accumulate power and dissipate all of it as heat. Yes, it will probably get hot before it finds somewhere to arc to though.
Not being a naturally occurring problem but an induced one, what happens, when it happens, how often it happens, what voltages are reached and why you can get away with sometimes and not others is to some extent speculation and not the subject of in depth research.
These days, most people will simply say, "don't do it". End of discussion.
It's bad practice and not necessary nor worth taking the risk.
Noel
Completely agree with you especially in reference to frying electronics. I was attempting to answer Wildfires question. With no path for discharge for the alternator/stator it is going to get hot and like you said arc a way to ground eventially or short out. Dave
Quote from: FJ_Hooligan on February 09, 2015, 09:27:51 PM
Here's a tip for those that have no working fuel gauge.
Next time you think you may need fuel, drop a lit match into the tank to verify it
(only kidding)
Haha, I like that. At least you'd get a conclusive result (unless the tank was full to the brim)
Noel
Quote from: movenon on February 09, 2015, 12:34:39 PM
It beats me why on the newer FJ's Yamaha elected to put a LCD clock in the cluster rather than a voltmeter. But that's how it is.
George
Yes George, voltmeters are a good add on for sure, but I use my clock many, many times every day and if it didn't have on, I'd fit one.
If I was using my voltmeter for advance warning of impending doom, I'd still be waiting 120,000km/22 years later for it's first use.
You are talking about an event that might happen once or twice in the bike's lifetime (alternator/regulator problems) and batteries generally give out their owns signs of being in the death throws.
Noel
Quote from: wildfire on February 09, 2015, 12:18:53 PM
On second thoughts I should not have suggested this unless someone is aware of the stator r/r communication and function and most importantly what electronics are self load dependent.
If it doubt leave it out.
Good call. Something I try and consider with every post, who is reading it and what are they likely to do with the information. Not everyone has you level of understanding and simple procedures like this are just the sort of thing people pick up and run with.
Noel
Quote from: Pat Conlon on February 09, 2015, 01:37:58 PM
but I wish I had a dollar for every time I reached for that ever elusive 6th gear...
:rofl2: Yep, we would be rich Pat. Even with 18/38, I still look for it, lol.
Quote from: ribbert on February 10, 2015, 06:22:43 AM
Quote from: FJ_Hooligan on February 09, 2015, 09:27:51 PM
Here's a tip for those that have no working fuel gauge.
Next time you think you may need fuel, drop a lit match into the tank to verify it
(only kidding)
Haha, I like that. At least you'd get a conclusive result (unless the tank was full to the brim)
Noel
Yes very funny ,, However at some point you will be riding with an Idiot who will actually do that.
True story .. I was riding with some friends of a friend and we had stopped to smoke a cigarette and one of the guys opened up his gas cap on his KZ600 and wanted to know how much fuel he had left in the tank . Since it was dark outside he could not see the level so he took his lighter and lit it over the open gas tank. The fuel vapors lit and a pretty flame illuminated the night sky . Now all the other guys scrambled for cover as I hustled my ass over to the bike-b-que and quickly closed the gas cap extinguishing the flame . I proclaimed to the Idiot , " well there was gas in it" .. :sarcastic:
Mark,
Holy Crap! Sounds lke you interferred with a potential Darwin Award Winner.
Maybe we don't want that guy riding motorcycles? :-)
I am sure Mark had second thoughts about saving the bike after the fact. Knowing Mark, he was not thinking about preventing a Darwin award, the damn bike was gonna burn down.... But he did have to make a choice... :empathy3:
I remember a 1%er dude (club name shall go un-named) who took the cap off his Fat Bob, which was full to the brim, and calmly lit it with his Zippo. A tiny blue flame flickered on the surface of the fuel.
Scared the shit outta me. He just grinned and finished his Lone Star.
Gasoline fumes displace air leaving little or no 02 in the tank I later learned.
I bump/splash would have ended the story different of course.
Quote from: ribbert on February 10, 2015, 03:51:37 AM
Quote from: craigo on February 09, 2015, 12:52:17 AM
The Rectifier and stator are both shot. I used the Yamaha factory service manual and the Haynes manual tests. Both with the same results. Just be cheaper to get a good used generator and be done with it.
CraigO
How much life is left in a second hand alternator?
Have you considered getting it reco'd by an auto electrician? This is an option many forget about and is very cost effective, and you know what your starting with. I recently had a quote on one, $120 including bearings vs $1300 for a new one (BMW)
Noel
Yeah Noel, I thought about that. All I can do is pray that it's going to last. But for the $65 I am paying for it makes it a worthwhile gamble. (please note that I didn't buy the "new" generator from Randy but off of Ebay)The auto electrician sounds like a good alternative. Maybe they can do it a lot cheaper than I can as the costs of new OEM stuff is insane.
CraigO
The Volt meter that I just installed is less than $10.00. As for durability, that remains to be seen. If it is still working by this time next year, I will proclaim it a great bang for your buck.
Here is the eBay link to the one I used.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/311173648767?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2648&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT (http://www.ebay.com/itm/311173648767?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2648&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o145/aviationfred/temporary_zps19c99ff9.jpg) (http://s119.photobucket.com/user/aviationfred/media/temporary_zps19c99ff9.jpg.html)
Fred
craigo -- mark did let me know of your troubles as I haven't been on in awhile. Unfortunately I too had trouble just this past December -- and had to use my spare so I was unable to assist with either a troubleshooting part or replacement --- I haven't read the entire post but it does seem you got one to replace
tally - ho
funny thing for me is the 90 alternator went kaput --- with about 40k miles on it --- the used one that is on the bike now has well over 70K miles --- guess they made them better in 86 --
Quote from: Burns on February 10, 2015, 05:18:41 PM
I remember a 1%er dude (club name shall go un-named) who took the cap off his Fat Bob, which was full to the brim, and calmly lit it with his Zippo. A tiny blue flame flickered on the surface of the fuel.
Scared the shit outta me. He just grinned and finished his Lone Star.
Gasoline fumes displace air leaving little or no 02 in the tank I later learned.
I bump/splash would have ended the story different of course.
I thought this story was going to lead into how you got your name.
Noel
Quote from: craigo on February 10, 2015, 05:25:01 PM
Quote from: ribbert on February 10, 2015, 03:51:37 AM
Quote from: craigo on February 09, 2015, 12:52:17 AM
The Rectifier and stator are both shot. I used the Yamaha factory service manual and the Haynes manual tests. Both with the same results. Just be cheaper to get a good used generator and be done with it.
CraigO
How much life is left in a second hand alternator?
Have you considered getting it reco'd by an auto electrician? This is an option many forget about and is very cost effective, and you know what your starting with. I recently had a quote on one, $120 including bearings vs $1300 for a new one (BMW)
Noel
Yeah Noel, I thought about that. All I can do is pray that it's going to last. But for the $65 I am paying for it makes it a worthwhile gamble. (please note that I didn't buy the "new" generator from Randy but off of Ebay)The auto electrician sounds like a good alternative. Maybe they can do it a lot cheaper than I can as the costs of new OEM stuff is insane.
CraigO
Yeah, I punt on used parts sometimes too, depends what it is, how much grief it will cause if it's a dud and the difference in cost. We have the advantage of no labour costs.
The condition of some parts can be gauged by eye, and others (like electrical components) can't, it's in the lap of the gods.
At least an alternator failure isn't going to stop you getting home.
I have a switched on auto electrician who is a real can-do sort of guy. The type that looks for ways to do something rather than reasons why he can't.
As you know, most auto manufacturers don't make their own ignition systems, and the ones that do, source their components from outside companies.
My auto elec tells me there is a lot of interchangeability for this reason and says the components he carries will rebuild most alternators. The spanner in the works is ....age!
I haven't asked about an FJ yet but if I had a problem, that would be my first port of call. He charges nothing to pull it apart and tell me if he can fix it. The price I mentioned the other day was actually the high end, he quoted between $80 and $120.
Noel
Noel,
Fortunately, the seller had other parts off the same bike including the gauge cluster. The bike had 22,800k on it. I also looked at the forks and they were very clean. Front wheel had some dings on it but stock rotors appeared to justify the mileage. With these clues, I decided to buy it.
But look at my bike and you'd never think the generator was bad. Clean and a tick over 50k on the clock.
Another cool thing is that it's in San Diego today from Syracuse, New York, which is getting hammered by snow.
Down side is we are expecting 50-80mph winds in the local mountains for the next couple of days so I won't be doing any riding.
CraigO
Quote from: moparman70 on February 11, 2015, 12:46:29 AM
craigo -- mark did let me know of your troubles as I haven't been on in awhile. Unfortunately I too had trouble just this past December -- and had to use my spare so I was unable to assist with either a troubleshooting part or replacement --- I haven't read the entire post but it does seem you got one to replace
tally - ho
funny thing for me is the 90 alternator went kaput --- with about 40k miles on it --- the used one that is on the bike now has well over 70K miles --- guess they made them better in 86 --
Thanks for the response Mark.
Funny you say that as my last 90 FJ (the one that burned in my house fire) had to have it's generator replaced at around the same mileage as this one. I seem to remember using one off a VMax. It fit and worked fine but was a bit of a pain to mount. Now I have to wonder if the older ones are made with better parts.
CraigO
Quote from: craigo on February 11, 2015, 08:15:03 AM
Thanks for the response Mark.
Funny you say that as my last 90 FJ (the one that burned in my house fire) had to have it's generator replaced at around the same mileage as this one. I seem to remember using one off a VMax. It fit and worked fine but was a bit of a pain to mount. Now I have to wonder if the older ones are made with better parts.
CraigO
Looking forward to our next ride Craig.
Give me a call and let me know. Or just PM me :good2:
CraigO
Opps, I meant to thank Steve (moparman) for the response. See what happens when you post early in the morning without coffee. :dash1: