hey I just bought a '92 1200; runs beautifully, i'm drooling at the power-band, and it's not a gashog as a commuter either.
here's the problem.
the bike overheated the first day I bought it. my assumption was the oil pan was dry - turns out the battery was dead. replaced the battery, took it to the sellors shop the next day for an oil change (thought I had burned up the oil reserves) and inspection.
guy said everything was fine, changed the oil, bought a few bonus items (gas additive and chain lubricant), paid and went on my way.
the ride home was good, didn't overheat, parked it in my driveway and saw a leak. A LEAK! sampled the fluid on the driveway, fuel/oil mixture. well, shit.
called the guy, wasn't very imformative, figured he wants me to learn how to do some basic repairs myself. no problem, probably a great idea anyway.
so I took some photos. need some advice.
first photo: the leaking hose
this hose only drips when the bike is stood upright, doesn't leak on the kickstand. leaking fuel.
(http://i1033.photobucket.com/albums/a417/sunkenstrings/IMG_20140430_184457.jpg)
second photo: another disconnected, wet hose
not sure what this is for, but it may be where the oil leak is?
(http://i1033.photobucket.com/albums/a417/sunkenstrings/IMG_20140430_184546.jpg)
third photo: empty post?
this is on the piece above the motor, not sure what it's for. but the post is dirty which leads me to believe it hasn't had a connection for quite some time.
(http://i1033.photobucket.com/albums/a417/sunkenstrings/IMG_20140430_184511.jpg)
fourth photo: another disconnected hose
this is in the same cluster of disconnected hoses. there are three in the cluster and one additional hose I found
(http://i1033.photobucket.com/albums/a417/sunkenstrings/IMG_20140430_184530.jpg)
fifth picture: last visible disconnect
this hose is behind the others, between the motor and the wheel. the other three are located near the heatshield, this 4th hose is located further towards the rear of the bike behind all the big parts
(http://i1033.photobucket.com/albums/a417/sunkenstrings/IMG_20140430_184601.jpg)
the mechanic, ivan, said it might be a fuel vent (I have no idea) but i'm pretty sure leaking fuel, or oil, or (even worse) the fuel/oil mixture is bad. like, really bad. like, catch on fire or explode on the freeway going 130 at 4am bad. so I need some advice: identification of my disconnects, where to reconnect them, how serious this is (maybe i'm overly-concerned?), and how to complete the fix. there are some other stuff I can get too later, for example one of the 5 posts on the back of the motor is rusted and split, but I think that's relatively minor compared to leaking fuel so help me out! please and thanks !! :good2:
Float needle seats need new orings holding them into the carbs, most likely.
can I handle that myself?
how many tools would be required, if so?
I have a reliable mechanic but it might be best to learn how to maintain this bike personally considering it's aged (like a fine wine).
still considering contracting him for some engine repairs when the money's right.
Photo #1. In the Upper left corner is the fuel line from your tank connected to the fuel pump.
Photo #3. Looks like the drain port for the #4 carb bowl.
The rest of your photos are carb overflow lines.
Go to the 'Introduction' section and tell us a bit about yourself and your FJ, and what part of the world you are from.
Fred
posted an introduction, fred.
do you think I should buy a manual? I think I should buy a manual, what's your opinion on purchasing a manual?
:drinks:
Quote from: theLeopard on April 30, 2014, 10:22:55 PM
posted an introduction, fred.
do you think I should buy a manual? I think I should buy a manual, what's your opinion on purchasing a manual?
:drinks:
Best 20 bucks you will spend or save, depends on how you loo at it...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-FJ-1100-1200-L-B-Genuine-Service-Manual-and-1986-FJ1200-Dealer-Brochure-/131178961788?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e8ae01b7c (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-FJ-1100-1200-L-B-Genuine-Service-Manual-and-1986-FJ1200-Dealer-Brochure-/131178961788?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e8ae01b7c)
why would my carburetor overflow?
is that the reason replacing the O-rings was suggested? (I would presume so but, hey, i'm still a novice here)
if the old O-rings aren't sealing properly would that create an overflow/leak in the fuel-pump system?
how much labor is required for a DIY job? is it suggested or discouraged (based on difficulty)? how many tools do I need to complete that type of service? is it fatal to postpone this maintenance (if this, in fact, is the problem)?
so pumped to be riding again, share my joy SHARE IT!
:yahoo:
seriously, share it
:drinks:
Did you read the info on carb cleaning and o-ring replacement? The o-rings prevent fuel from bypassing the needle/float system, allowing free flow of fuel from the pump into the float bowl then out the vent tubes onto your rear tire, or worse. If you want to risk a crash ( gas in front of rear tire) or fire (gasoline leak) then I guess you could delay or ignore this problem.
There aren't too many tools required, and they're tools you'll need.
Carb o-ring and cleaning info http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=655.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=655.0). You should read & digest this before proceeding. Get Randy's screw kit & some #40 pilot jets.
read, somewhat digested, and bookmarked.
from the looks of things i'm going to need a shopping list, here's what I have so far:
- manual
- punch kit (whatever that is, is this similar to a tap&die set?)
- carb cleaner
- new rings
- screwdrivers
- spare gastank & fan
- metric sockets
- metric wrenches
- metric allans
let me know if i'm missing anything.
also, I could really use an estimated cost here since i'll be on a lean budget for a month (which probably means i'll be spilling gas for at least a month)
thirdly, what are the pilot jets for? is the only reason to clean&polish original parts to save money?
:flag_of_truce:
My at bat is complete. Next batter up.
guys, seriously what am I looking at price-wise here? i'm not cheap but I am a student, I cant shell out 2-3grand at the moment to get this thing safely operational and the guy offered to buy it back for the price I paid if I changed my mind. lets be realistic here. I prefer to beat things with a blunt object until we mash out all the parts than nitpick details for hours while major questions remain unresolved so please just give it to me straight: is my bike gonna die? is my wallet going to die?
guys i'm scared, hold me :empathy:
Quote from: theLeopard on May 01, 2014, 09:14:17 AM
guys, seriously what am I looking at price-wise here? i'm not cheap but I am a student, I cant shell out 2-3grand at the moment to get this thing safely operational and the guy offered to buy it back for the price I paid if I changed my mind. lets be realistic here. I prefer to beat things with a blunt object until we mash out all the parts than nitpick details for hours while major questions remain unresolved so please just give it to me straight: is my bike gonna die? is my wallet going to die?
guys i'm scared, hold me :empathy:
I'd say, if you have to buy tools too, a couple of hundred bucks tops, including parts, and the job is simple. Bucket loads of help here and very good photo guides both here and on the net. These carbs are fitted to other bikes as well and I have seen some excellent photographic, step by step guides (Suzuki I think). Once you overcome the fear of the unknown, it is a simple job. Even just removing the airbox and demystifying the carbies and their plumbing will have you well on the way.
We can probably organise a group hug but draw the line at, err, holding.....
Noel
Don't panic. Don't ride it until you fix the problem.
To get you back on the road quickly, here's what I suggest:
1) Get a manual
2) study
3) take the carb rack off the bike, drain the gas, dry them and put them in a box and send them to RPM in Oakdale, Ca.
4) for aprox $150 (depending on options) Randy and Robert will ultrasonic clean them, fix them, sync them and get them back to you.
5) plug and play... You will be happy.
6) order and install a fresh fuel filter, also available from RPM.
See the Vendor section for RPM info....
See my signature line for additional suggestions...
alright i'm selling the Jag. these repairs are affordable and I prefer to ride anyway.
you guys give me good news without the bullshit (can I swear here? I don't swear at people but I tend to curse).
now for the bad news, I hope you can give me to same treatment for bad news too.
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=11580.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=11580.0)
Quote from: theLeopard on May 01, 2014, 10:52:07 AMI don't swear at people
Hang out here long enough, and you'll probably start...
Yep, very true....you can, but I can't......although I have been known to throw my coffee cup.
My wife comments, "Honey, you need a break from that place..."
so I take the bike to the shop today.
push 4500 cause I need to get there but don't want to turn into a fireball from this fuel leak.
arrive safely, 1/8th of a tank. bike isn't leaking when I pull up.
chill out for a few, ivan walks out and pulls the bike into the back, lets me tag along.
props it up on the pegstand. no leak, at first.
we're talking, chopping it up discussing what I learned here last night, then
the drip. oooooh, the drip. leaves a nice little puddle on the ground.
so we talk a bit more, ivan seems unconcerned. says that's typical behavior if the bike has been on the kickstand as the carb fuel-level is uneven tilted so it's draining the overflow.
alright, that's good news. leak stops on it's own accord. cool! schedule an appointment for next Thursday. says if it leaks while running to be cautious.
I make a joke, if i'm riding it how would I know it's leaking? we both grin and shake hands. it's 95degrees out so I stop for a few hours smoke a cigar and drink a cold beer, head home.
three of us on the 15, i'm slaloming the divider line as we breeze through early-rushhour traffic. hit every weave perfect until I get to 45 and decide to straighten up.
pushing 90 now, ride is good, keeping a good drafting line with the two guys ahead of me, we take turns who's first and eventually settle. i'm still a bit wary so they slowly pull away, 75 is fast enough today.
exit the freeway.
city traffic.
Christ. these red lights take forever.
idling for what seems like an eternity, take a look down and guess what I see: a wee bit of steam and a nice almost-stream leak of gasoline from my overflow hose. fuck.
hit a few more red lights, gotta get home this baby is HOT.
pull into O'Reilleys. nothing on fire, no explosion, still have all my fingers and toes but good lord that sure seems like a lot of fuel there pouring onto the ground.
quickfix: 3/4" heater hose, put the bundle-of-four in the end, grab some electricians tape, fashion a sling for my hoses so it will pour onto the ground instead of my pipes and rockshield.
call ivan.
"ivan I gotta get this done by sunday I have school on Monday"
he's busy.
"call me tomorrow, fit me in if you can"
he says ok, he'll call.
need a phonebook.
too many mechanics. who to pick? aha, but there are a couple machine shops for motorbikes that's exactly what I want.
first call, no answer. cmon baby be good to me. 2nd call hangs up before I get a ring, no way, call again. dave picks up.
and he's honest. say 1-2hours labor I say 2-3 we see eachother and he says to bring it by tomorrow morning.
alright so here's the thing, i'm really trying to avoid exploding on my rocketpropelled bomb here.
not even gonna overcharge me, highballed the price at $200 including labor. i'll probably give him a 20tip.
guy at Motorcycle Dynamics had the same conclusion all the guys here did and rightfully so since you know your stuff: the needles aren't sealing properly into the O-rings.
so far I like him. says he's done a lot of work on his and his friends bikes, and he runs a machine shop local to SoCal (for anyone outside LA).
if everything pans out i'd recommend him for emergency jobs (which this is, I don't have the time to ship a carb to Sacramento atm) if you live near SD.
ok but here we have a new problem. my gas take whistles. this high, piercing, but very quiet whistle. I only heard it when I was trying to replace my lowbeam when I got home.
heard it yesterday too but didn't think much of it.
pop the gascap, whistle stops. close it up. whistle starts again in about 5minutes.
I can only presume the gasket isn't sealing properly but should I be concerned about this? also i'm getting the hunch my performance has been deteriorating conversely with the severity of my fuel leak.
Quote from: theLeopard on May 01, 2014, 09:02:58 PM
ok but here we have a new problem. my gas take whistles. this high, piercing, but very quiet whistle. I only heard it when I was trying to replace my lowbeam when I got home.
heard it yesterday too but didn't think much of it.
pop the gascap, whistle stops. close it up. whistle starts again in about 5minutes.
I can only presume the gasket isn't sealing properly but should I be concerned about this? also i'm getting the hunch my performance has been deteriorating conversely with the severity of my fuel leak.
That is normal... Flapper valves are singing to you....
:drinks:
every noise is impending doom until I get this thing squared away which will probably be never so maybe in a month or so lol
I've been noticing a bit of trouble in first (nothing major yet) and the engine sounds a bit throatier than it did two days ago; this is because the carb isn't functioning at 100% I assume.
I hope I haven't caused any permanent damage to the pistons, I rode it pretty good today. only 10-15minutes but i'm babying it from concern.
Quote from: theLeopard on May 01, 2014, 09:16:11 PM
every noise is impending doom until I get this thing squared away which will probably be never so maybe in a month or so lol
I've been noticing a bit of trouble in first (nothing major yet) and the engine sounds a bit throatier than it did two days ago; this is because the carb isn't functioning at 100% I assume.
I hope I haven't caused any permanent damage to the pistons, I rode it pretty good today. only 10-15minutes but i'm babying it from concern.
The FJ is a noisy bike, it is air cooled and not to be judged by modern standards...
Leopard, here's the deal: Who ever works on your 2 wheel Molotov cocktail needs to remove the needle seats and replace the o-rings under them. If that doesn't happen, you're done. Like I told you a few posts ago, either you're gonna have a BBQ'd FJ, or you'll go on your ass. Make sure they do this or your wasting your time and money, plus you will still have the above (BBQ or crash) problem. Do this right or don't bother!
Noises? The only sound you need to worry about is "whoosh" as she lights up. Ask Dan Filetti, or some of the others. They didn't have the same problem, but they ended up where you're headed.
Quote from: simi_ed on May 01, 2014, 10:09:04 PM
Leopard, here's the deal: Who ever works on your 2 wheel Molotov cocktail needs to remove the needle seats and replace the o-rings under them. If that doesn't happen, you're done. Like I told you a few posts ago, either you're gonna have a BBQ'd FJ, or you'll go on your ass. Make sure they do this or your wasting your time and money, plus you will still have the above (BBQ or crash) problem. Do this right or don't bother!
Noises? The only sound you need to worry about is "whoosh" as she lights up. Ask Dan Filetti, or some of the others. They didn't have the same problem, but they ended up where you're headed.
++++++ MANY...
"so we talk a bit more, ivan seems unconcerned. says that's typical behavior if the bike has been on the kickstand as the carb fuel-level is uneven tilted so it's draining the overflow."
BULL SHIT...
George
I almost forgot... Piss off all you bastards!!!! Need to curse at least every every fort night....
Quote from: movenon on May 01, 2014, 10:22:25 PM
"so we talk a bit more, ivan seems unconcerned. says that's typical behavior if the bike has been on the kickstand as the carb fuel-level is uneven tilted so it's draining the overflow."
BULL SHIT...
George
I've got many vices but deceit isn't one of 'em.
Quote from: simi_ed on May 01, 2014, 10:09:04 PM
Leopard, here's the deal: Who ever works on your 2 wheel Molotov cocktail needs to remove the needle seats and replace the o-rings under them. If that doesn't happen, you're done. Like I told you a few posts ago, either you're gonna have a BBQ'd FJ, or you'll go on your ass. Make sure they do this or your wasting your time and money, plus you will still have the above (BBQ or crash) problem. Do this right or don't bother!
Noises? The only sound you need to worry about is "whoosh" as she lights up. Ask Dan Filetti, or some of the others. They didn't have the same problem, but they ended up where you're headed.
It'll be done tomorrow. I'm lucky I made it home, I know that as well as anyone else though perhaps not in as clear a degree as most.
9:30am and the drive there is less than 3 miles. He knows exactly what to do and said exactly what you're saying now when we spoke on the phone.
This is what you need to replace. Also inspect the float assy for any binding. The list go's on for working on the carbs. Its a matter of fix as required or rebuild.
Sounds like you are in a fix as required mod.
http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Carb%3AFloatValveG&cat=24 (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Carb%3AFloatValveG&cat=24)
As part of your learning curve, there are 2 different needle and seats. One as the link above is for a gravity feed tank and the other is for a fuel pump model. They look the same but the inlet hole is a different diameter.
Don't worry about the fuel tank singing ..... yet. Here is a link that might help. Get the gas leak fixed first.
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=2024.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=2024.0)
Note, if at sometime you are going down the road and the bike is loosing power or starts to run crappy. First test is crack open the fuel tank cap.
IMO if you decide to repair it yourself, try to clean the system and make sure the vent hose isn't plugged or pinched.
I wouldn't remove the flapper unless I had to as a last resort. Ethanol gas likes a sealed system. Alcohol absorbs water from the air. You do live on the coast right ? No fog etc..... I am probably over reacting to that but water, rust and corrosion are things that are not good for your fuel tank, carbs, or your wallet.
There are probably a lot of FJ's running around with the flapper removed very successively, I would just prefer having the system work as designed.
Let us know how it turns out :good2:
George
Good, It sounds like we're all on the same page here. If this mechanic does what's needed you'll be good for a long while.
I don't think George was calling BS on you, but this 'ivan' that tells you not to worry about a fuel leak. Fuel leaks are serious shit, things get destroyed and people get hurt. Nobody here wants that for you or anyone. As I said, we're all on the same page here.
Please report back to let us know what the outcome is ...
Ed
OK, I got is a 'shit'. I guess I'm covered for a few ...
does my carb have a vent from the crankcase to the air filter?
i'm browsing around to see how bad the risk of fire was (exists but it wasn't a fuel-line leak) in case this happens in the future and it seems I'll be changing the oil again asap.
Yes, there are two hoses on the stock airbox...
1) a large vent hose connecting at the top right side of your engine case that runs to the bottom side of your *stock* air box. It is part of your emissions system. The oil vapor generated by the engine blow by is recirculated back thru the carbs.
2) There is a second smaller drain line that runs from the bottom of the airbox to the ground. It's purpose is to drain off any accumulated oil that collects in the airbox....(oil generated by the crankcase vent)
When removing and reinstalling the stock airbox to service the carbs, this crankcase vent hose (#1) is very difficult to reconnect to the bottom of the airbox...Many times lazy service techs leave this hose disconnected.
We, who have learned how to service our carbs, throw away the stock airbox and install UniPod filters which make this service job much, much easier. On the crankcase vent hose we install a small K&N filter at the end of the hose thus venting the crankcase vapors to the atmosphere....it also keeps our carbs cleaner without all that crankcase oil vapor being pulled through the carbs.
Quote from: theLeopard on May 01, 2014, 09:02:58 PM
the drip. oooooh, the drip. leaves a nice little puddle on the ground.
so we talk a bit more, ivan seems unconcerned. says that's typical behavior if the bike has been on the kickstand as the carb fuel-level is uneven tilted so it's draining the overflow.
Having a bike leak fuel is not normal behavior.
Quote from: Pat Conlon on May 02, 2014, 02:20:18 PM
Yes, there are two hoses on the stock airbox...
1) a large vent hose connecting at the top right side of your engine case that runs to the bottom side of your *stock* air box. It is part of your emissions system. The oil vapor generated by the engine blow by is recirculated back thru the carbs.
When removing and reinstalling the stock airbox to service the carbs, this crankcase vent hose (#1) is very difficult to reconnect to the bottom of the airbox...Many times lazy service techs leave this hose disconnected.
We, who have learned how to service our carbs, throw away the stock airbox and install UniPod filters which make this service job much, much easier. On the crankcase vent hose we install a small K&N filter at the end of the hose thus venting the crankcase vapors to the atmosphere....it also keeps our carbs cleaner without all that crankcase oil vapor being pulled through the carbs.
I'll replace the parts asap.
Would you happen to have an available photo of hose#1 so I can ask the guy about it tomorrow? Bike is in the shop getting repaired short-notice, for anyone interested.
Quote from: andyb on May 02, 2014, 06:00:23 PM
Having a bike leak fuel is not normal behavior.
You know, that was my thought too but i'm a novice so I didn't know the magnitude of the problem when I saw it.
Got a good look at the carb today. O-rings are completely shot, minor wear on the needles.
Shipping the parts from RPM, should be running again monday.
Good guy there, got me whati really needed and at the best price too, would recommend to anyone with an FJ.
Quote from: theLeopard on May 03, 2014, 02:54:03 PM
Got a good look at the carb today. O-rings are completely shot, minor wear on the needles.
Shipping the parts from RPM, should be running again monday.
Good guy there, got me whati really needed and at the best price too, would recommend to anyone with an FJ.
Excellent, you are on the road to recovery. There's not much if anything that Randy at RPM doesn't know about those motors and his shipping is super fast. I have a list of top end parts to get from him after the rally and things settle down in my life.
Did he pull your pilot jets and emulsion tubes and clean them? I would clean up what you can while in there.
George
gotta get the repairs done in Esco, couldn't ride the 6hours with the severity of my leak and I need the bike operational ASAP (looking like Monday pm maybe Tuesday am).
when I get around to performance-tuning the bike I know exactly who to call though.
Quote from: movenon on May 03, 2014, 04:53:09 PM
Did he pull your pilot jets and emulsion tubes and clean them? I would clean up what you can while in there.
George
probably not, this guy Joe didn't even pull the assy out until I said something about the O-rings. could really use a picture or diagram of that #1hose to make sure it's reconnected.
i'll likely be pulling everything apart myself on the weekends so i'll start making a to-do list and put those two items at the top.
Quote from: theLeopard on May 03, 2014, 11:21:45 PM
gotta get the repairs done in Esco, couldn't ride the 6hours with the severity of my leak and I need the bike operational ASAP (looking like Monday pm maybe Tuesday am).
when I get around to performance-tuning the bike I know exactly who to call though.
Quote from: movenon on May 03, 2014, 04:53:09 PM
Did he pull your pilot jets and emulsion tubes and clean them? I would clean up what you can while in there.
George
probably not, this guy Joe didn't even pull the assy out until I said something about the O-rings. could really use a picture or diagram of that #1hose to make sure it's reconnected.
i'll likely be pulling everything apart myself on the weekends so i'll start making a to-do list and put those two items at the top.
Sounds like you have already learned more about your carbs than your mechanic..... :lol: Well when you get some time and space you can clean them yourself. I think I understand where you at trying to just get some transportation going.
You will have to explain more about the #1 hose? Are you talking about one of the four small vent hoses or one of the two larger overflows or a vacuum hose on top ?
George
George, no he's referring to my above post...hose #1 is the crank case breather hose...
Sorry, I do not have a picture of the hose...
Perhaps others?
Quote from: Pat Conlon on May 03, 2014, 11:53:25 PM
George, no he's referring to my above post...hose #1 is the crank case breather hose...
Sorry, I do not have a picture of the hose...
Perhaps others?
Ok. I am with you now.. :morning1:
George
Quote from: Pat Conlon on May 02, 2014, 02:20:18 PM
Yes, there are two hoses on the stock airbox...
1) a large vent hose connecting at the top right side of your engine case that runs to the bottom side of your *stock* air box. It is part of your emissions system. The oil vapor generated by the engine blow by is recirculated back thru the carbs.
2) There is a second smaller drain line that runs from the bottom of the airbox to the ground. It's purpose is to drain off any accumulated oil that collects in the airbox....(oil generated by the crankcase vent)
When removing and reinstalling the stock airbox to service the carbs, this crankcase vent hose (#1) is very difficult to reconnect to the bottom of the airbox...Many times lazy service techs leave this hose disconnected.
This #1 hose
Carburetor is clean.
Replaced all the rings.
Replaced the needles.
How/when would I adjust the float needle position?
Also, i'm dripping fuel constantly with the engine off, I need a new fuel pump too?
Anything else I'm forgetting?
#40 pilot jets? (wat are those?)
lets drink, i'm in over my wallet already. :drinks:
Quote from: theLeopard on May 07, 2014, 01:35:31 AM
#40 pilot jets? (wat are those?)
lets drink, i'm in over my wallet already. :drinks:
Read through these files. It will give you an idea of what the parts are and where they are located.
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=4281.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=4281.0)
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=7730.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=7730.0) ( this is not an FJ carb but still a good to read )
George
Quote from: Pat Conlon on May 01, 2014, 10:11:27 AM
Don't panic. Don't ride it until you fix the problem.
To get you back on the road quickly, here's what I suggest:
1) Get a manual
2) study
3) take the carb rack off the bike, drain the gas, dry them and put them in a box and send them to RPM in Oakdale, Ca.
4) for aprox $150 (depending on options) Randy and Robert will ultrasonic clean them, fix them, sync them and get them back to you.
5) plug and play... You will be happy.
6) order and install a fresh fuel filter, also available from RPM.
See the Vendor section for RPM info....
See my signature line for additional suggestions...
Yes, and Yes do this and your carb problems will be done. This is not difficult.
Need assistance and tools, I am local and can help. PM me.
CraigO
alright, i'm at my wits end here.
joe is as frustrated as I am, and we even bought a service manual which wasn't at all helpful.
so here we go.
I've got this:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/capnfrank/pic_zps9a256cd6.png)
that's the fuel solenoid that connects to the flange on the bottom-right side of the carburetor-gang (on the #4 carb).
on most models it leads from the fuel pump to the carburetor. on my model (California model possibly) I have a 3rd nipple sticking out of the side of the solenoid.
There is NOTHING to connect to that nipple.
At all.
And when we start the bike fuel spews out of the empty nipple like a geyser.
Other that that everything else works. No leaks, no problems, no nothing. Floats are good, all the needles&rings are new, all the hoses are properly connected.
So the manual shows one picture (1, out of all of them, 1) that shows the T-hoses that are present between the 1-2 carbs and 3-4 carbs with hoses fed up-and-over the carburetor-gang and an additotional hose which looks like the solenoid hose (the one i'm missing) that is fed up between the 2-3 carbs and vents into the atmosphere.
This would make sense, as the rudimentary diagram on the fender seems to indicate the fuel solenoid on my model vents into the atmosphere.
What i'm here to ask is: What the @!#* connects to the 3rd nipple on my solenoid?
Honestly I'm just considering buying stock parts from Japan and circumventing the California emissions standards but that's a worst case scenario if I can't find an appropriate manual/fix.
ALSO. Which bike do I own? I got on the Yamaha site (http://www.yamahapubs.com/ (http://www.yamahapubs.com/)) => motorcycle => 1992 => FJ1200 => 4 (four!) different models are listed. If you can figure it out, here's my VIN: JYA4AHC02NA008123
Quote from: theLeopard on May 09, 2014, 10:44:18 PM
ALSO. Which bike do I own? I got on the Yamaha site (http://www.yamahapubs.com/ (http://www.yamahapubs.com/)) => motorcycle => 1992 => FJ1200 => 4 (four!) different models are listed. If you can figure it out, here's my VIN: JYA4AHC02NA008123
You had lots of good questions in there, but I'm only addressing what I *can* answer.
When you pull up 1992 FJ1200's, you get:
FJ1200AD - This is a 1992 with the ABS brake option (The one I own)
FJ1200ADC - This is a 1992 with the ABS brake option, with California emission bits
FJ1200D - This is a 1992 without the ABS option
FJ1200DC - This is a 1992 without the ABS option, but with the California emission bits
Sounds like you are one of the two in red above...depending on if you have ABS or not.
Hope that helps.
Cap'n Ron. . .
Quote from: Capn Ron on May 10, 2014, 01:01:54 AMHope that helps.
Immensely.
I can purchase the appropriate manual (and those things aint cheap!), thank you.
Nothing on a motorcycle is cheap :lol:.. But you can get used factory Yamaha manuals for 15-25.00 dollars. They show up on e bay all the time. There are DVD versions for less than 15.00. You don't need a shiny collectors copy, coffee stains on the cover is preferred....
I think it is still there, you can got to rapidshare. Log in: movenon
password: fjowner
And copy a service factory service manual, I think there is a copy of the Clymers also in there. Quality isn't good but it's about as cheap as I can make it... :).
George
The only "nipple" I see in your picture looks like the carb float bowl drain. Am I not seeing something?
Also, I do see that one of your breather hoses is kinked. That is bad! If the breather is kinked, fuel will squirt out of everywhere as the fuel pump builds unvented pressure in the float bowls.
The nipple isn't displayed in the picture, is simply for locational-reference.
Here's a basic design:
(http://i1033.photobucket.com/albums/a417/sunkenstrings/pic2-1.png)
Oh, and that kink is in one of the overflow hoses which aren't positioned properly (nor leaking) atm.
Probably just going to push them back towards the rear fender like they were before we tore into the thing.
Quote from: movenon on May 10, 2014, 10:14:38 AM
Nothing on a motorcycle is cheap :lol:.. But you can get used factory Yamaha manuals for 15-25.00 dollars. They show up on e bay all the time. There are DVD versions for less than 15.00. You don't need a shiny collectors copy, coffee stains on the cover is preferred....
I think it is still there, you can got to rapidshare. Log in: movenon
password: fjowner
And copy a service factory service manual, I think there is a copy of the Clymers also in there. Quality isn't good but it's about as cheap as I can make it... :).
George
Eh, we bought a Clymers for like $35 but it isn't useful. Probably just going to spend the bill and get a certified copy from Yamaha.
I tried to call, but the call would not go through.
Randy - RPM
yeah I forgot today was the 9th and they turned it off this morning.
the manual should show up Monday or Tuesday so if you don't hear from me sooner you will then. $100 in cab fare last week :drinks: it's time
On the manual, I have both. There are a few errors in the Clymer but it still is handy. I just finished installing some of Randy's valve stem seals (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Head%3AVSS (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Head%3AVSS)) and re-timing the cams etc., I refereed to both of the manuals. The procedure is the same, they are just written differently. Sometimes that helps in the understanding of what you are doing. Also don't overlook the search function, lots of information buried in the forum.
George
k new problem.
got the bike back last night, seemed to be running well enough to commute.
idled 200rpm low, sounded a bit throaty, but it was tac'ing 6000 no problem, filled up the tank with 91 Mobil and called it a night.
started it up this morning, pulled the choke.
idled ~2500 (standard) for a few minutes then dropped down to 1000.
did that for a couple minutes, gave it some gas, hit 2500 again, pushed the choke, was ~500rpm. gave it a bit of gas, pulled the choke again, let it warm up a few more minutes.
pushed in the choke, steady idle @800rpm, ok same as last night lets go.
get to the first stoplight, engine dies.
try to start it, choke in, turns over a few times idles low; hit the throttle, bike dies.
pull the choke, tac'ing anywhere from 1000-2500rpm. (tried this a few times)
as soon as I hit the gas bike dies.
bad fuel pump, dirty gas lines, or what?
I just serviced the carb.