It's almost riding season here in Ohio ... well maybe a couple months off, but I'm still excited! :yahoo:
Anyway, the last carbs I ever pulled were on my 75 XS650 ... easy. So for this double-the-cylinder beast, I downloaded the lovely PDF by Raforth. I've read through it a couple times at work when I've had no Honda's to work on and today with this heatwave of 45 degrees, I decided to try.
Getting the airbox out was a complete pain. The boots are old and hard and really didn't want to cooperate. Upon removal, I found a quarter sized hole in the top of it towards the back where the tank bolts go into the subframe. Furthermore, a PO decided that the PCV hose didn't belong on the airbox and left it lay on the heat shield below ... now it's rock hard and covered in oil. I removed the carb assembly and found ... gas. Gas in the butterfly openings, gas in the carb holders, gas on the intake boots and gas on the heat shield above the trans. WTF. I've already done the petcock 'fix' and I've made SURE it does not leak. Also, I blew into the main fuel feed line ... it sounds kind of gargly. Like a cauldron boiling. Also checked my diaphragms. They all hold while up and the port is blocked ... whew.
So if you would, help an automotive technician get his bike sorted! Pretty please! I even took pictures! :drinks:
Fuel on the heat shield
(http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj239/justn2006/20140219_175439_zps4e7f7594.jpg) (http://s273.photobucket.com/user/justn2006/media/20140219_175439_zps4e7f7594.jpg.html)
PCV Hose
(http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj239/justn2006/20140219_175446_zpsa8e4b85f.jpg) (http://s273.photobucket.com/user/justn2006/media/20140219_175446_zpsa8e4b85f.jpg.html)
Carb Bodies (#1 looks the same as the rest)
(http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj239/justn2006/20140219_175458_zps992820ba.jpg) (http://s273.photobucket.com/user/justn2006/media/20140219_175458_zps992820ba.jpg.html)
Wet Carb Holders (Intake boots look similar)
(http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj239/justn2006/20140219_175433_zps9a6b0984.jpg) (http://s273.photobucket.com/user/justn2006/media/20140219_175433_zps9a6b0984.jpg.html)
Sounds like you now have a project. The air box is pretty easy to get out if you take the two side bolts out of the sub frame and let it drop down. If it were me I would store the air box and filter. I would (and did):
Put a set of UniPod filters on from RPM.
Throw away the PVC tube and relplace with a new hose and end filter also available from RPM.
Now for the carbs....
Best to do a total rebuild. Here is another good read on rebuilding the carbs with pictures
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=4281.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=4281.0)
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=9560.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=9560.0)
If you do not want to do a total rebuild then if I were you I would install new needle and seats plus O rings, remove and clean the jets and passages as best you can, adjust the float levels and install new bowel gaskets then hope all is well. Close to a "field repair".
Your a mechanic so you should not have any problem they are easy to rebuild BUT as with anything it's the small details that are easy to over look. Lots of help here and pictures.
Also if you have been currently leaking that much gas... change your oil and verify the petcock is shutting off.
George
Quote from: movenon on February 19, 2014, 07:11:12 PM
install new bowel gaskets then hope all is well...
... and if the shit hits the fan, your gaskets didn't take. :rofl:
Frank
I did drop the subframe, it still wasn't a simple removal due to the hardened boots, but it (obviously) did come out. It's also cracked and 'repaired' but I'm not happy with it at all.
I'm not opposed to doing a full rebuild, it's just the unfamiliarity of it all. Give me a 1988-current Honda vehicle and I can do it, but this is foreign territory. It's all of the small bits that are intimidating. I've done it once on my XS twin and they were Mikuni's so I'm sure there isn't much difference.
As far as the pod filters, I would prefer them. They most definitely would breath better than that stock glob of an airbox, but I'm concerned about the jetting. I'm not familiar with that at all.
I am 100% sure my petcock isn't leaking but I'd like to replace it regardless ... I'd rather not catch on fire at a stop light.
Thank you for the links. I'll be sure to immerse myself when I get a chance. I'm tearing down the carbs tomorrow at work during my downtime.
**EDIT** Also, the fuel on the heat shield could be from when I was flopping around the main fuel line while removing the carbs. It's the fuel in the intake boots and carb holders I have no explaination for.
Don't be intimidated, just take it one at time if your are unsure. Go through the system starting at the petcock. Your problem is probably in the needle seat valve or bowl gasket. I also note that if you are doing a rebuild take it one step farther and remove the intake manifolds and replace the O rings there. They are cheap and probably could use some new ones.
Doing a total clean and rebuild of the carbs is the way to go if you can. Randy at RPM can help you with what you need. Give him a call or e mail him.
If your bike runs good and all you are concerned with is the fuel leaking then the needle and seat change out, float level adjust, and bowl gaskets is a good shot at fixing the problem.
Frank, I have been tapped on that shit before.... :ireful: :ireful: :lol: Thanks for the correction, my formal education pretty much stopped at the 9th grade. Long story.
George
The bike ran well last season. By well, I mean tolerable. The idle was less than desired which will probably be fixed by a good cleaning and sync. I tried adjusting the star wheel which helped but was still inconsistent. I would have a slight break up at higher rpm, which from reading this forum, would be caused by a lean condition. I noticed when I started it up a couple weeks ago, it has a pretty sufficient exhaust leak below the lower cowl/scoop fascia.
Randy will be getting an email for some instruction on how to proceed with the pod filter/jetting dilemma. I've dealt with him before with my choke cable issue and he was fantastic.
I gave a quick glance at the bowls, they all look like they are sealing properly (read: no gas or residue on them) but I'll be ordering some gaskets anyway. I'm not sure if they've ever been disassembled or cleaned at this point.
Again, thanks for all of your input. It will be much appreciated when I'm scooting to work on her in the spring!
Quote from: movenon on February 19, 2014, 08:40:48 PM
Thanks for the correction...
We all make mistakes... that was just a funny one for the potty minded as my daughters would say. No slam intended George. :flag_of_truce:
Frnak
Quote from: Flynt on February 19, 2014, 10:20:55 PM
Quote from: movenon on February 19, 2014, 08:40:48 PM
Thanks for the correction...
We all make mistakes... that was just a funny one for the potty minded as my daughters would say. No slam intended George. :flag_of_truce:
Frnak
I know that Frank :good2: Hope to see you again at the WCR rally :good2: :good2:
George
I removed the bowls this morning, but before I noticed a bit of wetness around the bottom side of the throttle opening on the airbox side of #1 and #3. I feel I may have found the root of the leak, but the wetness in the carb holders, bodies and airbox still perplexes me. I haven't started the bike in almost 4 weeks and there was a fairly large amount of fuel left in the four skinny hoses and the two larger hoses between #1/#2 and #3/#4. On a positive note, my 1/4 electric impact driver made removal of the stock screws extremely simple. Not one came even close to striping :)
So, all I need now is a couple rebuild kits and some advice on how to jet these guys for the pod filters!
Well I've hit an enormous bump. #3 Float post is broken. I went to move the pin (small punch and tiny mallet) and the pin pretty much flew through the first side. I though it was strange because #4 took a little motivation and sure enough the other post fell right off. It looks like its been broken for a while which would explain the abundance of fuel.
So what do I do now? Do I need to replace all of the carbs? Does anyone have an empty carb body they would like to sell? I'm slightly crushed at this point, but I'm glad I know whats going on in my carbs.
A few members have fixed broken float posts a few different ways. The best way in my opinion is to have it micro welded, however finding someone with the equipment near you might be difficult. Others have posted that they bonded it back on. I am not sure if TIG (GTAW) welding will work on that material but it is more common and easier to find shops that do it. I happen to have a set of old carbs in pieces so replacing that body is also an option. It is a shame that solving your mystery is a discovery in a tricky repair job. But solve it you did.
I'm going to do some research on the subject. If I don't come up with a repair I'm comfortable with, I'll send you a PM for that carb body. It's the third from the left. Thank you!
Here's to hoping everything goes smoothly from here, I would hate to get stuck in my car all season.
IMO just replace the carb body. Check with e bay and Randy at RPM for a start.
If fuel is in the air box you probably have gas in your engine oil also. Check it...
George
May I just add something I learnd here. This neat little trick for getting the carb bank back in those tight little holes.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC05064.jpg)
Slick-as-you-please! A half a crank and then another and it pops in like a tire popping on a bead.
I just ran out and set it to take the pic. You mite center it better than that.
Great idea! A little oil helps too.
Quote from: movenon on February 20, 2014, 01:51:04 PM
IMO just replace the carb body. Check with e bay and Randy at RPM for a start.
If fuel is in the air box you probably have gas in your engine oil also. Check it...
George
I checked ebay, nothing really jumping out at me on there. I'll have to email Randy personally, the only thing listed on his site are the full sets. Very tempting!
I'll also be changing my oil, I only rode about 1000 miles last season but I like to change it every season after it's sat all winter.
Quote from: Joe Sull on February 20, 2014, 03:35:02 PM
May I just add something I learnd here. This neat little trick for getting the carb bank back in those tight little holes.
Slick-as-you-please! A half a crank and then another and it pops in like a tire popping on a bead.
I just ran out and set it to take the pic. You mite center it better than that.
This is brilliant! I have a corner full of screw jacks from my Honda's. And a lot of silicone spray from work.
Thanks for all of the tips guys. Also, these may go into part-out mode depending on how much of a tax refund I get.
Occasionally on flea bay you see a junk set of carbs for parts. They are typically missing some parts but might have a good body. The last ones I seen were around 90.00.
The new carb sets that RPM has are a good deal considering what is going to happen in the future but I understand about the money. A few years ago I totally rebuilt my carbs and had out of memory at or over 200.00 in parts and pieces. When I say totally that's not entirely correct as I didn't replace the diaphragms or slide springs. I still should change out my slide springs.
Good luck on the carb. Let us know how you come out.
George
So after contacting Randy, the price of the full set of carbs has increased since February. I really don't want to JUST repair the post ... I feel like it'll be more of a headache later down the road. If it ain't broke, don't fix it ... hell, I'll just replace it. I've found a couple sets of carbs on Fleabay. One new and one used. Both look great, but I'd like a second (or third fourth fifth) opinion. All opinions and advice are welcome here!
First Set (Used)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1984-YAMAHA-FJ1100-CARBURETOR-SET-INTAKE-OEM-/261051796427?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cc7e64bcb&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/1984-YAMAHA-FJ1100-CARBURETOR-SET-INTAKE-OEM-/261051796427?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cc7e64bcb&vxp=mtr)
Second Set (New)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Legends-Race-Car-FJ1100-FJ1200-Yamaha-FJ-4AH-14900-10-00-New-OEM-Carburetors-/181334044805?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a3859f085&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Legends-Race-Car-FJ1100-FJ1200-Yamaha-FJ-4AH-14900-10-00-New-OEM-Carburetors-/181334044805?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a3859f085&vxp=mtr)
Also, the second set is advertised for a variety of Yamaha's ... which makes me wary of pulling the trigger on that set.
On another note, I noticed something about the main jet's ... they're stamped 117.5. I've noticed in all of the parts catalogs that the stock ones were 110 or something? Any insight on that? The bike is 100% stock from what I can tell. Stock pipes, airbox, etc.
Thanks!
For the extra 150.00 I would try to step up to the new carbs. But be aware that the picture they show is for a 88 - 93 set of carbs with a fuel pump.
For gravity feed you will need your needle and seats and fuel inlets. No biggy. Just be aware of it. The new carbs will probably dry up at that price in the future.
Did you contact RPM about a used carb to replace the one you have with the broken post ? I am sure there is one out there somewhere.
112.5 jets were used on the earlier FJ's, 110's were used later (emissions related / lean). I had 110's and changed them to 112.5. Not a big deal. Your main jets are mostly for full throttle running.
For a stock FJ 1100 I would go with: (even slightly modified).
#112.5 Main Jet (if they have 117.5 that would probably be OK, especially if you are at a lower elevation). You have to do wide open throttle runs and plug reads to see how they are preforming.
#160 Air Pilot Jet
#37.5 Fuel Pilot Jet or #40
And IMO money well spent add adjustable needles. There is where some real world adjusting can be done for normal riding.
George
The #160 air pilot jet cancels out the #40 idle jet.
#144 would be a better/richer choice for the air pilot.
Needle adjustment is the most important setting.
Quote from: MidwestFJ1100 on March 07, 2014, 09:14:40 AM
I've found a couple sets of carbs on Fleabay. One new and one used. Both look great, but I'd like a second (or third fourth fifth) opinion. All opinions and advice are welcome here!
About the only thing you can determine from a photo of carbs is the that the post is not broken. Photos tell you next to nothing about carbies except the seller has a parts wash and has taken lots of photos.
I would only ever buy second hand carbs sight unseen with the expectation everything needed doing.
If you only wanted a body with an unbroken post, fine, but expect the worst with the rest of them, especially the diaphragms.
They also seem very expensive, after all, they have just been pulled off a bike and cleaned, not reconditioned.
Noel
You might look at these. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1990-yamaha-fj-1200-carburetor-/261412775670?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cdd6a66f6 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/1990-yamaha-fj-1200-carburetor-/261412775670?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cdd6a66f6)
Might be a good body in the mix :).
George
Quote from: movenon on March 07, 2014, 10:23:15 PM
You might look at these. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1990-yamaha-fj-1200-carburetor-/261412775670?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cdd6a66f6 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/1990-yamaha-fj-1200-carburetor-/261412775670?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cdd6a66f6)
Might be a good body in the mix :).
George
Now this is exactly what I was looking for! There are no differences in the actual bodies of the pumped and gravity fed versions, correct? Only the fuel supply feeds and probably the jets are different (guessing?)
I'd like to know 110% I can use these. If so, I'll be purchasing them today! Thanks a ton movenon!!!
110 % jeez... I would send him an question to make sure the carb bodies (especially the one you need) is in good shape (no broken posts or stripped threads). Also ask about the condition of the diaphragms.
If you convert one body, you will use your jets, slide and diaphragm. Lots of parts to resell. Or rebuild all of those and just use gravity feed needle and seats. I think the 1100 slides are different than the 1200. But you have some choices.
George
My diaphragms are all in good shape, so as long as the slides fit right into the 1200 bodies, I'm good there. Depending on the condition of them when I receive them, I'll probably rebuild and covert those and keep mine for spare parts down the road.
Another little hiccup ... my neat seats are in the carbs pretty tight. I've tried pulling on them with some pliers but they're soft and I don't want to mar them up. I thought about just soaking them in penetrating fluid over night and tugging on them the next day. Would this be the best route?
Also, I checked a guide on main jets vs altitude. My main area of riding in Ohio is averaging ~1000ft ... my 117.5's seem a little big. I'm not versed in this department at all. I never noticed any lacking of power at WOT, although I had a little stumble in the lower mid-range.
Thanks again, guys.
Being a size big on the mains won't hurt much. It'll make your mileage drop that much farther when you're doing top speed runs, and yield a blacker plug color on a WOT plug chop. It'll also make it more tolerant of crap gas.
I'll be surprised if you're actually at 1000' though. Look at the corrected altitude, not the absolute altitude. At the track, it's not uncommon for the ~700ft elevation to correct to 1500' for the qualifying runs and keep getting worse until it's 3300' for the final round. The track never moved, the air quality changed.
Hell, run it and see what you think. It's just brass, it's reasonably easy and inexpensive to swap around. It may work very well in the spring and fall and be rich in the summer, for example.
For pretty much everyone, getting the pilots on the right size will make a much larger difference than the mains will.
Quote from: FJmonkey on February 20, 2014, 09:30:48 AM
A few members have fixed broken float posts a few different ways. The best way in my opinion is to have it micro welded, however finding someone with the equipment near you might be difficult. Others have posted that they bonded it back on. I am not sure if TIG (GTAW) welding will work on that material but it is more common and easier to find shops that do it. I happen to have a set of old carbs in pieces so replacing that body is also an option. It is a shame that solving your mystery is a discovery in a tricky repair job. But solve it you did.
Micro does work very well. A good friend does it and he is in Georgia. http://www.jmfmicroweld.com/ContactUs.php Jim is a great guy to deal with.
https://www.google.com/search?q=jim+french+micro+welding&client=firefox-a&hs=vDR&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&channel=sb&tbm=isch&imgil=2bOV6Noq97RgxM%253A%253Bhttps%253A%252F%252Fencrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com%252Fimages%253Fq%253Dtbn%253AANd9GcSAWjYknM4P13yiohIaSkZtpFIV7s8XGpalWC-Kto0rn8HLjRgU%253B900%253B672%253Bs_CAJ9b160IPYM%253Bhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fforums.sohc4.net%25252Findex.php%25253Ftopic%2525253D118804.0&source=iu&usg=__PFtjVadwD7WCE-BYAbGWHNN5MHE%3D&sa=X&ei=fAMeU_3BBefz0QHn4oGIDg&ved=0CD0Q9QEwBQ&biw=1920&bih=886#facrc=_&imgdii=_&imgrc=2bOV6Noq97RgxM%253A%3Bs_CAJ9b160IPYM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fi770.photobucket.com%252Falbums%252Fxx345%252Fjfrenchsp2%252FIMG_07941600x1200.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fforums.sohc4.net%252Findex.php%253Ftopic%253D118804.0%3B900%3B672 (https://www.google.com/search?q=jim+french+micro+welding&client=firefox-a&hs=vDR&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&channel=sb&tbm=isch&imgil=2bOV6Noq97RgxM%253A%253Bhttps%253A%252F%252Fencrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com%252Fimages%253Fq%253Dtbn%253AANd9GcSAWjYknM4P13yiohIaSkZtpFIV7s8XGpalWC-Kto0rn8HLjRgU%253B900%253B672%253Bs_CAJ9b160IPYM%253Bhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fforums.sohc4.net%25252Findex.php%25253Ftopic%2525253D118804.0&source=iu&usg=__PFtjVadwD7WCE-BYAbGWHNN5MHE%3D&sa=X&ei=fAMeU_3BBefz0QHn4oGIDg&ved=0CD0Q9QEwBQ&biw=1920&bih=886#facrc=_&imgdii=_&imgrc=2bOV6Noq97RgxM%253A%3Bs_CAJ9b160IPYM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fi770.photobucket.com%252Falbums%252Fxx345%252Fjfrenchsp2%252FIMG_07941600x1200.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fforums.sohc4.net%252Findex.php%253Ftopic%253D118804.0%3B900%3B672)
Quote from: MidwestFJ1100 on March 10, 2014, 01:10:11 PM
My diaphragms are all in good shape, so as long as the slides fit right into the 1200 bodies, I'm good there. Depending on the condition of them when I receive them, I'll probably rebuild and covert those and keep mine for spare parts down the road.
Another little hiccup ... my neat seats are in the carbs pretty tight. I've tried pulling on them with some pliers but they're soft and I don't want to mar them up. I thought about just soaking them in penetrating fluid over night and tugging on them the next day. Would this be the best route?
Also, I checked a guide on main jets vs altitude. My main area of riding in Ohio is averaging ~1000ft ... my 117.5's seem a little big. I'm not versed in this department at all. I never noticed any lacking of power at WOT, although I had a little stumble in the lower mid-range.
Thanks again, guys.
Had a similar problem with mine. My '85 1100 sat for 10 years with gas in the bowls. Got everything out but seats gave me a real headache. It was literally like they were stuck in concrete. One of the guys finally recommended soaking them in simmering hot water, at a slow boil or just below. I did this for about 30 minutes and this finally broke them loose. Still wasn't easy getting them out. Also recommend using the shank end of a drill bit of similar diameter to just fit in the seat to keep pliers from crushing it. I used needle nosed vise grips. Pretty hard not to scar the outside, but you can keep them round this way. So soak the hell out of it for 24 hours with your favorite penetrating magic, and then for best effect use your wife's favorite sauce pan to boil them for at least half an hour. Different thermal qualities of the two different metals was the real magic. Good luck.
Rick
I ordered the set of used carbs that movenon found. Now I just have to figure out HOW I'm going to build them. First instinct is to drop the money for 4 rebuild kits from RPM. I've already spent some money, so what's a little more for knowing that everything in there is good to go? Priceless.
So now it comes to the jetting.
I have 117.5 Main Fuel
155 Air Pilot
No idea what my Fuel Pilots are, but I'm guessing stock ... and #4's head is stripped (Left-hand drill bit??)
Flawless Diaphragms
I'm going to with pods ... F that airbox. And Randy's kits come with an adjustable needle. From what I've read, that's the most important thing to have with the pods. (I think?)
So ... install my 117.5's. The kit comes with 112.5's so if I get a rich plug read, I'll swap out for these. And gas is crap around here so my 117.5's may just stay.
Should I keep the stock 37.5 Fuel Pilots? Or bump to the 40?
And should I swap the Air Pilots or keep them the same?
All of this because I have no idea what I'm doing even though I've tried my best to research.
And the SS bolt kit will be purchased too ...
I can't speak for the other jets but go with #40 for the idle, it is so much better... Once you make the changes expect to use much less choke. I was shocked how little it needed and for much less time. Makes starting easier. Even hot starts are no longer an issue. And the howl from the induction when you roll on the throttle is very nice coming from the pods, the air box was hiding such a nice feature on the FJ.
Good on the carbs. First challenge is the broken screw. Take some pictures when you get them. Can't comment on the screw removal until we can see it.
If all else fails you can use your carb body. IMO that looked like a pretty good deal considering the price increases that we are probably going to see on the carb related items. Worth it just for the sides and diaphragms.
George
Received the carbs yesterday! Began looking over them this morning at work. Diaphragms are all good! Has all stock jetting and the guy pretty much mutilated the needle seats getting them out ... but they are out. As for the stripped screw, have a picture.
(http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj239/justn2006/20140314_072611_zpsb66a94d8.jpg) (http://s273.photobucket.com/user/justn2006/media/20140314_072611_zpsb66a94d8.jpg.html)
I tried individually pricing the things I needed for these carbs ... completely surpassed the price of just buying 4 rebuild kits haha! So, 4 rebuild kits will be ordered along with #40 idle jets and the SS screw kit. After all of that arrives, it's just a matter of throwing everything together and dialing it in!
My first thought is to leave the screw in, don't take the butterflies out. I see no need to disassemble it that far...? Buying a complete kit is the way to go, all new jets, emulsion tubes, needles (adjustable), fuel air screws, needle and seats, O rings etc.. IMO RPM is the best place to get all of that.
IF you decide to take that screw out. soak it with a mixture of acetone and ATF fluid and try to find a small JIS screw driver or modify a small Phillips head driver. Be careful not to bend the shaft or beat the shaft bearing in the body. I would leave it alone if possable.
Make sure you get the gravity feed needle and seats if that's what you have. 88 and up are fuel pump seats and are smaller. Study the fuel inlet hose system, you will have to probably have to use your "Tee's" or order the parts to make that work. Take pictures before you tear yours apart if possable.
Or just replace the one body that is bad on your bank ? What direction are you going to take ?
It helps to dress some screw drivers down so the fit nice and snug in the straight slots of the jets etc.. helps from tearing them up. Inexpensive drivers work well for that. Just a tip.
George
Along with George's recomendation for complete repair kits from RPM, I would also recommend getting this kit as well:
http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=carbkit&cat=24 (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=carbkit&cat=24)
It basically replaces all the phillips head screws with SS allen head bolts and includes additional O-rings that aren't in the other kits. If you ever have to disassemble your carbs again, you will defintiely appreciate the allen heads.
Quote from: FeralRdr on March 14, 2014, 12:17:51 PM
Along with George's recomendation for complete repair kits from RPM, I would also recommend getting this kit as well:
http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=carbkit&cat=24 (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=carbkit&cat=24)
It basically replaces all the phillips head screws with SS allen head bolts and includes additional O-rings that aren't in the other kits. If you ever have to disassemble your carbs again, you will defintiely appreciate the allen heads.
+1 on that :good2:
Just was looking at your picture. I was assuming the existing screw is the problem but perhaps its the empty hole that is the problem.... Let us know...
If it's the empty hole that is stripped find out the size of that screw... If its the empty screw hole, try to fine the screw if he sent it. Check the threads on it. Either the threads stripped on the screw or the shaft, or both are buggered ? First try would be to install a new screw (ACE hardware).. Might not hurt to run a same size tap in it.
More info ?
George
I remember trying to remove those screws once and they really didn't want to come out. I recall getting about a 1/8th turn and then the screw getting tighter. I came to the conclusion that it was peened on the thread side (like a chain rivet link) so it wouldn't accidently fall out, which would be a very bad thing given its location.
If you replace it with a "regular" screw make very certain it's in there to stay. If it was me I might consider something like a pop rivet (but I would want it to be as flush as possible.
The missing screw hole does have a screw and it does thread in all of the way. He removed all of the other butterfly's except for that one. After checking the overflow holes and main fuel feed inlet of the offending carb, I can use one of my carb bodies.
The SS screw replacement kit was the first thing on my list even before I removed the carbs from the bike ... the second thing quickly became the pods while I was removing the airbox haha
I plan on using everything that I don't get in the RPM rebuild kits for the new carbs from my old carbs (diaphragms, fuel/overflow fittings, etc.) and I'll be ordering everything for my model year. All of my fuel T's are in good shape, except for the o-rings. I also removed the needle seats from my original carbs and they are now unusable. I noticed the needle seats were different and even the idle jets look different than my gravity carbs. That being said, if anyone (or you know of someone) that needs some random parts, I have some.
Once I deposit some money I made over the week doing side work, my rebuild kits, pods and PCV filter will be ordered. As far as I can tell, that's all I'm going to need. Thank you guys so much. After this carb work is done, I'm moving on to my chain, sprockets and a front tire! Then it'll be time to ride again.
Sounds like you have a plan. There are 2 styles of pilot jets. Use the ones that come with the rebuild kit. Should be picture of the jets here.
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=4281.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=4281.0)
George
Advice: change out the large O rings that go between the intake manifolds and the head.