As winter sets in in earnest (-15 with a blizzard warning), it is, just as in Norway (Ken) a "good time for modding". To be honest, I am a bit intimidated to start this thread given the past extensive posts which are so informative and detailed. I am not enrolled in the 12 Step MA (Moditis Anonymous) program. I really do not have the problem that bad...er maybe just a bit. I for sure do not have a fetish for polishing aluminum...it seems to afflict retired FJ owners for the most part; but I digress.
Axiom's R1 conversion was an inspiration (post 3148) and the money just started flowing from there. The 92 in question was the second FJ I purchased. The PO was about 35 and had had four boys under six. For some reason he could not find time to ride. The bike had been sitting for over a year. I picked it up in March. I filled it up with gas, charged up the battery, made sure (after a bunch of cranking) the choke was completely out, and it fired tight up. We ( my sons and I) put about 10,000 KM over the past two summers. The problem the bike (we thought it had) had was the shifter nut falling into the frame. Removal of the footpeg bracket found that one of the lower frame bolts was broken off also...hmmm.
Spent a few hours stripping it down to the frame. Found the second problem which I deduce may be related to the one above. The rear, upper weld was cracked.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7405/11177391183_e74f7c7b50.jpg (http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7405/11177391183_e74f7c7b50.jpg)
Ok, hit the post instead of preview so you have the start....always takes me while to figure out the "monkey-flickr" process....more tomorrow with pics (or it didn't happen, right?)
a
Ok here is the pic:
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7309/11177396793_c25b67590e.jpg)
The crack extended all the way around in this. Other wise the frame was in good shape. Got a note form Noel and he says the crack probably is not related to the broken bolt a he has seen many of the bolts broke with a frame crack. Definitely defer to his experience. It might be worth checking these frames though.
And here is the welded up crack:
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7393/11177445565_2d52eaea0b.jpg)
Parting out did not cross my mind.
Swing Arm
My goal was to modernize the suspension and wheels by installing parts from the R6 and R1. For the swing arm I started with a 2008 R6. This appeared to be a bolt on, as the width is the same as the FJ. Note the thickness where it bolts on as compared tot he FJ.
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5541/10697926054_d52933b960.jpg)
Here are the through bolts and bushings for the swing arm. The top two items are the R6 parts. The third from the top is the FJ bushing, and finally the FJ through bolt.
(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2851/11177300514_326b57dfb3.jpg)
This shot shows the FJ bushing inserted inside R6 bushing...perfect fit....off to the races!
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3670/11177245576_313d875afc.jpg)
The shock is also about the same length as the FJ shock
Even got it all mocked up:
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3803/11177413653_9c70ae2849.jpg)
But wait, the top of the shock needs to bolt to something......
"Other wise the frame was in good shape. Got a note form Noel and he says the crack probably is not related to the broken bolt a he has seen many of the bolts broke WITHOUT a frame crack. Definitely defer to his experience. It might be worth checking these frames though.
Fixed it...better get to work.
Great find with r6. If it works I hope you don't mind if you get copied. This place is the greatest. How did you? Find out they were the same width? (popcorn)
I like the conversion Jeff. Looks great. I see you are using what I think is R6 wheels ? Do you have the width of the R6 swingarm at the axle. I guess what I would like to know is can an FJ or GSXR rear wheel fit into the swing arm ?
George
Dumb question.
Here, it's perhaps around freezing. I am afraid to work on the motorcycle. Plastic goes snap, metal is frosty cold. Norway is probably comparable temperatures (Chicago is similar to Oslo in terms of average temps, for reference!). How do you work on things?
Wife says motors inside means I don't get inside her, y`know?
Still need to look at a trans swap for the kawi, and the FJ needs the valves peered at... How do you work out there in the shed in the cold? Do you just freeze, or is there a good heater?
I know a guy who wrecks a lot of the 600 class bikes, R6, GSXR, etc that he buys from insurance companies. Seems like any bike with 600 CCs and an "R" in the name has a pretty short life span. I took an FJ swingarm over and just lined them up together. My goal was adapt the 5 spoke wheels and change the look with the modern swingarm. I guess if I was still young and limber I would drool over a new R6/R1. The later model R6 swingarm, I think, is the most dramatic, so that is where I started.
But the plot thickens. Okay back the R6 swingarm. With R6 dust caps on it slid in pretty good with a "washer width" gap which could easily be managed.
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5481/11177250736_5b93c9420b.jpg)
If you look back at the pic of the two swingarms, note again how thick the R6 swinger is where the through bolt is. Because of this thickness, the top of the shock simply cannot to the mount to the frame. This is further complicated by the offset in 3XW model. It felt sacrilegious to contemplate changing the shock mount by cutting and welding (but I have to admit I am getting there). I even cut the tab off the back of the mount which was liberating. But you can see the problem. That's is a BMW K1200 shock in there. The beautiful R6 shock with it's downslung piggyback also interfered with the top of the swing arm at a "normal" ride height (about 15.5 inches to the center of the swing arm bolt).
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3735/11177255346_b168713689.jpg)
Finally, my conclusion is to make this work, you would have to cut off the old shock mount and remount it over the center of the hole in the swingarm. If a person were to do this, the new mount should accommodate a shock with a 13 inch center to center length (the Fjs are about 12). It might be worthwhile as Hayabusa shocks would be a nice option in that case.
So back to the drawing board, well, rather back to the wrecker.
The next non-cut-and-weld-option was a 2003 R6 (and later model R6s) swing arm. Basically mounts up the same way except the hole for the shock is elongated and the piggyback drops into the hole. Here is it mounted up. This is a single dogbone set up. I needed to use an R1 dogbone as it is a bit longer than the R6 one.
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3796/11177245816_281032c3cc.jpg)
The clearances are still pretty tight and I continue to muse about the moving the shock mount and going back the 2008 R6...just like it better.
These guys:
http://www.customfighters.com/forums/showthread.php?t=42929 (http://www.customfighters.com/forums/showthread.php?t=42929)
have no fear when it comes to cutting and welding.
Paint: I use this. Very durable, resistant to cleaners, and has a bit of a textured finish like powdercoating....except I can touch up a will.
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7294/11192772284_9fc9216aef.jpg)
More to come: chain alignment: looks like the Honda VF1000 offset combined with flipped rear sprocket will to the trick.
George: I will get a measure of the swingarm width later this week. It is a 5.5 inch wheel and pretty was interchangeable form the 2003 R6 to the 2008 R6.
Andy: I have a heated farm shop (36X48ft). I can understand how bringing the motor in the house may cause issues. Last night I assembled the carbs (cleaned in the ultrasonic) at the kitchen table and she-who-will-not-be-trifled-with was wrinkling her nose at the faint smell of sour gas. Not as bad as the time I boiled a set on the stove in vinegar, but that's another story. Looking forward to comments and advice.
Jeff
Jeff, If you make the shock mount "longer" to accommodate the shock you will be adding a lot of leverage to the bracket to apply to the cross tube. It looks like you will have to double the bracket length and that might add more than that in twisting/torsional force.
You might check that out before you go cutting. Make something you can use as a long lever and seen what deflection you get with the stock mount. Then see if you can add the bracket and use the lever again to see how much more deflection you will see with the longer bracket.
You might have to add additional support to the longer bracket to keep the frame from twisting too much and possibly breaking.
Looks good, just do some checking first.
Randy - RPM
Beware that "washer sized gap" is probably just the frame flexing out with the motor mount bolt and swing arm pivot bolt removed -- I'll bet the stock swing arm has the same amount of clearance too.
Yay! Another build thread! I like watching the progress and learning new ways to approach things
Good luck!
Have not checked for the frame flex at the swingarm mount but will be interesting the see if there is that much. Randy great idea on checking the flex at the mount. Frankly, pretty nervous about crossing the Rubicon to cut and weld; no decent return from there.
George,
In terms of the swingarm width, the FJ is actually wider, at about 252 MM.
(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2844/11281631234_f5da84d8cc.jpg)
The 2003 R6 is 240.
(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2813/11281630324_127b2e616b.jpg)
In terms of flex at the swingarm bolt, this really should be minimal. The Fj swingarm fits very tightly into frame, and I have had the same experience with a my other 92 and our 86.
Chain Alignment
Here is the countershaft sprocket finger tight showing the amount of thread:
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7297/11281586916_7995ed9ed8.jpg)
Loosened off to align the chain. Measurement of the offset required was 6MM
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7448/11281658533_2cd9e2257b.jpg)
Not too scientific, but the chain looks aligned with this offiset
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7387/11280074436_38be2f2ef4.jpg)
Front End
The front end is from a 2009 R1. I chose it because I read on here that "it gets the chicks". There is lots of infor on the FZ1 forums on this as well as Axioms post regarding his conversion. I choose a 2009 FZ1 top triple and bars.
The R1 triple stem was pressed out and replaced with an FJ stems, just as in Axioms.
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3763/11266189306_01d5463c3b.jpg)
You have to make some parts. For the top washer, my machinist buddy took a large washer and spun it on the lathe to fit. Here are the measurements. In the top photo you can see he even cut a bevel to match the triple.
(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2852/11266218166_5e15efb431.jpg)
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5549/11266177235_4d255b9682.jpg)
The top hat bushing is a bit more complicated. More to come later.
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7304/11266216804_4151caee7c.jpg)
Thanks for the information Jeff. It looks like a GSXR wheel could squeeze in there with some spacer work. Take about 6mm (.23 inch) off each side if I read it correctly.
Your picture of the rear sprocket shows the chain tracking outboard a little by 1 or 2 "eyeball" mm"s. I am looking at the rear sprocket teeth set in the chain. If that's the case you could reduce that front sprocket offset a little ? I used a Motion Pro chain alignment guide and found it helpful. Down here they are a 16.00 item.
http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/4876/i/motion-pro-chain-alignment-tool?SiteID=Google_PLA995&WT.mc_ID=10012&esvt=0-GOUSC&esvadt=9-0-3886819-1&esvaid=30548&device=c&matchtype=&network=g&gclid=COCly5OGprsCFYlhfgodL2AAww (http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/4876/i/motion-pro-chain-alignment-tool?SiteID=Google_PLA995&WT.mc_ID=10012&esvt=0-GOUSC&esvadt=9-0-3886819-1&esvaid=30548&device=c&matchtype=&network=g&gclid=COCly5OGprsCFYlhfgodL2AAww)
Motion Pro: How-To Video: Chain Alignment Tool 08-0048 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u7f9y0MFIPY#)
George
Quote from: jscgdunn on December 10, 2013, 08:51:38 AM
Chain Alignment
Not too scientific, but the chain looks aligned with this offiset
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7387/11280074436_38be2f2ef4.jpg)
I am convinced that this is one of the many application that the proliferation of the many, and easy to find site lasers could really help with. Yup, by site it sure does look straight and true, bu wouldn't it be great to KNOW it? I'd bet a dollar you already own a laser that could be re-tasked for just this point. If not I saw some at 5 Below the other day for well, less than $5....
Dan
Quote from: jscgdunn on December 10, 2013, 08:51:38 AM
Loosened off to align the chain. Measurement of the offset required was 6MM
Jeff,
I stock a PBI 18T sprocket with an advertise offset of 1/4" which is about 6.27mm.
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc517/racerrad8/002_zpse178331c.jpg) (http://s1215.photobucket.com/user/racerrad8/media/002_zpse178331c.jpg.html)
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc517/racerrad8/003_zps73d2d1d9.jpg) (http://s1215.photobucket.com/user/racerrad8/media/003_zps73d2d1d9.jpg.html)
I do not have it listed on the website, I stock on for these types of application.
Let me know if I can help, Randy - RPM
Thanks Dan and George,
I too saw the offset of the chain on the sprocket this AM when I put the pic up...never really noticed it before. Makes me think that if the chain is centered on the sprocket, it must be pretty close to straight. Will look at it this week end. Next time I am at home depot will check for a small magnetic laser level. The chain alignment tool looks like it would take a lot of guess work out of trying to use the alignment marks on the swingarm.
Here are the other pics of the spacer
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5541/11266255133_b14bbd972c.jpg)
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3710/11266249673_5dd61914ec.jpg)
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5480/11266205076_8c50dfb2f6.jpg)
Quote from: racerrad8 on December 10, 2013, 01:29:58 PM
Quote from: jscgdunn on December 10, 2013, 08:51:38 AM
Loosened off to align the chain. Measurement of the offset required was 6MM
Jeff,
I stock a PBI 18T sprocket with an advertise offset of 1/4" which is about 6.27mm.
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc517/racerrad8/002_zpse178331c.jpg) (http://s1215.photobucket.com/user/racerrad8/media/002_zpse178331c.jpg.html)
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc517/racerrad8/003_zps73d2d1d9.jpg) (http://s1215.photobucket.com/user/racerrad8/media/003_zps73d2d1d9.jpg.html)
I do not have it listed on the website, I stock on for these types of application.
Let me know if I can help, Randy - RPM
Thanks Randy....there certainly will be help required....but I think I have a Honda VF1000 sprocket coming....should have checked first :dash1:
Here is another shot of the FZ1 top triple. You can see the black 2 inch extensions. I have heard there are three inch extensions, but R1 fork tube is tapered where the bottom triple clamps, and two inches seems to be at the top of the taper, so I am not sure how the three inch extension would work.
The FJ ignition switch can be made to fit. I used 4 3/8 nuts as spacers and longer bolts. I also had to drill out the mounting holes on the switch because the FZ1 holes are larger and spaced further apart.
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7368/11280074086_718a469fd0.jpg)
Here it is mounted. The lock does line up...but I actually never have used the lock so not too concerned. Looks like I am going to have to find a less rusty nut...looks out of place with the new hardware.
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3674/11280158083_68ca322e04.jpg)
The steering stops will need addressing. Turning radius is not as tight as the FJ...Tim (ie Axiom) says it is not an issue.
(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2854/11266176174_66024abff8.jpg)
Quote from: jscgdunn on December 10, 2013, 01:42:32 PM
Thanks Randy....there certainly will be help required....but I think I have a Honda VF1000 sprocket coming....should have checked first :dash1:
I suspect so, you are going to need the XJR sprocket cover, shift rod & push rod as well as I believe the stock cover will not provide enough clearance.
Randy - RPM
I eye balled mine and thought it was pretty good until I used the tool. Its is a simple tool but works great. Essentally just a steel rod that you can mount or clamp parallel to the rear sprocket.
I agree with Randy. When using an offset sprocket the cover will interfere with the sprocket. The sprocket cover will rub even with the metal bracket/ sound deadener removed from inside. Consequently the one bolt from the clutch slave that threads into the cover will be ruined, and will be shortened enough that the bolt will no longer hold. I know this because I purchased an already modded bike....... Randy has all the parts you need. When removing the shift shaft do the clutch mod he recommends also. You will be happy you did. No clutch slip is the consequence. Awesome to read about your bike. I am currently re-doing an 86 and have a very nice 84 with 25,000 orig k's waiting for a full blown moditis attack!!!!
Quote from: racerrad8 on December 10, 2013, 01:29:58 PM
Quote from: jscgdunn on December 10, 2013, 08:51:38 AM
Loosened off to align the chain. Measurement of the offset required was 6MM
Jeff,
I stock a PBI 18T sprocket with an advertise offset of 1/4" which is about 6.27mm.
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc517/racerrad8/002_zpse178331c.jpg) (http://s1215.photobucket.com/user/racerrad8/media/002_zpse178331c.jpg.html)
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc517/racerrad8/003_zps73d2d1d9.jpg) (http://s1215.photobucket.com/user/racerrad8/media/003_zps73d2d1d9.jpg.html)
I do not have it listed on the website, I stock on for these types of application.
Let me know if I can help, Randy - RPM
Randy, do you carry these in 17 teeth as well? What's the cost? Would prefer to go thru you than Trac again...
Thanks!
Quote from: fj1289 on December 12, 2013, 08:25:30 AM
Randy, do you carry these in 17 teeth as well? What's the cost? Would prefer to go thru you than Trac again...
Thanks!
Chris, I can get them, but I do not have them on the shelf. I order one of these for someone and I thought I better get two for the next guy that wants one, so it is sitting on the shelf.
Let me know if you need something and I can order it.
Randy - RPM
The Motor
I bought this motor from Rick Tae who advertised it on this forum. As I recall it has around 15,000 KMs on it. It came from '92 he crashed. Long story; Rick lives on Vancouver Island and was "getting out of FJs" so I bought everything he had left from the crashed bike. All of the pieces are in really good shape and included complete wiring harness etc. I will be putting these parts on this bike.
Last winter Rick was able to get the collection to a friend of mine in Vancouver. So then I had to figure out a way to get the parts to Calgary. I ended up hiring a horse transporter who picked up everything. There was the motor and three cardboard boxes, which she put in the tack room of the trailer...along with a few bags of sawdust used for bedding the horses. At any rate I ended up three boxes filled with liberal amounts of sawdust and FJ parts. Sorting it out was kind of like a treasure hunt. Anyway, here it is in the frame.
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3695/11281661243_e250cf2be2.jpg)
Because I had everything apart, I put the motor on my table, slipped the lower subframes under the motor, then draped the main frame over the motor. After a few minutes of lining things up, the motor was bolted to the frame. I then used the skid steer to pick it up and put the forks on and drop the centre stand.
In and out
Rick had already sold the carbs form the motor; I was able to find a fuel pump set from a guy in Manitoba. I am not sure if the had ever been apart as the screws appeared unmolested. By the way those are JIS standard screwdrivers...highly recommended to reduce the aforementioned molestation.
Here they are cleaned up.
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3728/11266190815_4ab82507fd.jpg)
I plan on running unipods and a Supertrapp 4 into 1. Jetting advice is most welcome. Typical riding elevation is 3000 to 4000 feet.
Jeff,
The 2003 swing arm looks awesome. The 2008 swing arm looks good too. I am following this post with great interest as a possibility to attempt the swing arm mod on my 89'. I did look on eBay for R6 swing arms......WOW, they are dirt cheap.
Fred
Thanks Fred, Yes the parts are very reasonable and very low mileage....still some sorting out to do for sure.
Jeff
PS: My 89 project (with your lower frame rails) is still in the works....Basically putting it together from all the parts I 've collected over the years.
Loving this thread... especially all the pics and fine details. :good2:
Quote from: aviationfred on December 13, 2013, 03:26:26 PM
I did look on eBay for R6 swing arms......WOW, they are dirt cheap.
I would think you'd need to sort through them to get one that's not all wadded up!
Quote from: FJ_Hooligan on December 13, 2013, 05:01:49 PM
Quote from: aviationfred on December 13, 2013, 03:26:26 PM
I did look on eBay for R6 swing arms......WOW, they are dirt cheap.
I would think you'd need to sort through them to get one that's not all wadded up!
Hey...you are challenging the ebay grand master (Fred) to find a good one....actually I have looked at quite a few and it is usually the front end of the bike that is wrinkled.
Jeff
How is the length of the 03' and 08' swingarms compared to the OEM FJ swingarm?
Fred
Quote from: aviationfred on December 14, 2013, 06:44:27 PM
How is the length of the 03' and 08' swingarms compared to the OEM FJ swingarm?
Fred
Hi Fred,
I do not have the 08 one anymore as I exchanged for the 03. The length for the 03 is 25 inches...FJ swing arm 23.5 inches. This is measured from centre of swingarm bolt to end of arm.
Jeff
Wow! 1 1/2" longer would probably be a good thing for my 86. Getting ready to send the motor out to Hank Scott. To get the 2nd gear issue fixed and about 150 more cc. (popcorn)
I was a little worried about this post; just to be clear it was the overall length. The key measure will be (I think) the length from the swingarm bolt to the centre of the axle. Will post that later.....
Jeff
Quote from: jscgdunn on December 17, 2013, 09:45:02 AM
I was a little worried about this post; just to be clear it was the overall length. The key measure will be (I think) the length from the swingarm bolt to the centre of the axle. Will post that later.....
Jeff
I really like the look, and that it's probably a lot stronger. And if it was a little longer wheel base? That would be perfect.
For those that are following this thread for the Swing arm mod. The swing arms are unbelievably inexpensive. There is even a chrome one for those that need shiny bits.
Also to incorporate the extended swing arm thread. There are swing arm extenders available
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2003-2004-2005-Yamaha-YZF-R6-06-09-R6S-Chrome-Swingarm-Back-Frame-Rear-OEM-Z191-/281146655680?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4175a583c0&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/2003-2004-2005-Yamaha-YZF-R6-06-09-R6S-Chrome-Swingarm-Back-Frame-Rear-OEM-Z191-/281146655680?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4175a583c0&vxp=mtr)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2006-03-09-YAMAHA-YZFR6-YZF-R6-R6S-SWINGARM-REAR-SWING-ARM-SUSPENSION-OEM-1646-/301027048736?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A2003%7CModel%3AYZF&hash=item46169c3d20&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/2006-03-09-YAMAHA-YZFR6-YZF-R6-R6S-SWINGARM-REAR-SWING-ARM-SUSPENSION-OEM-1646-/301027048736?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A2003%7CModel%3AYZF&hash=item46169c3d20&vxp=mtr)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2003-Yamaha-YZFR6-Swingarm-Extensions-Frame-Extension-YZF-R6-Swingarm-Extension-/360634903776?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item53f783ece0&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/2003-Yamaha-YZFR6-Swingarm-Extensions-Frame-Extension-YZF-R6-Swingarm-Extension-/360634903776?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item53f783ece0&vxp=mtr)
Fred
(http://www.flickr.com/photos/39980957)
Ok...can someone please help me with the new way to share flickr photos? :ireful:
Thanks,
Jeff
Quote from: jscgdunn on January 06, 2014, 09:12:54 AM
Ok...can someone please help me with the new way to share flickr photos? :ireful:
Thanks,
Jeff
You paste your URL that starts with "http://..." and ends with ".jpg" between the img tags "[ing][/ing]" replace the 'ing' with 'img'.
So it would look like [ing]http://www.heres-my-photo.jpg[/ing] with the 'ing' changed to be 'img'
Dan
Hey Jeff are the r6 swingarms aluminum or steel?
Also have you thought of cutting/notching out the swinger for the shock clearance? And then replating/boxing in the part you cut. (popcorn)
Quote from: giantkiller on January 06, 2014, 11:35:40 AM
Hey Jeff are the r6 swingarms aluminum or steel?
Also have you thought of cutting/notching out the swinger for the shock clearance? And then replating/boxing in the part you cut. (popcorn)
They are aluminum. I might as well fess up on this part.
I was able to finally check the clearances (note to self: always do this first) with the subframe and footpeg hangers bolted on. (I have some pics but I am having a challenge with flickr to understand it's arcane process......) The first interference point was with the rear master banjo bolt, next on the left of the subframe. This was before full compression of the R6S shock. No shock clearance issues. These items could both be addressed by further modifications but I am just not into going down that road. The more you change in that area the less original parts will fit I think. All of the clearance issues are due to the top mounted bracing on the swing arm.
So.....back to the drawing board. I am going to go with a 2007 R1 swing arm...as per Axiom's post. Here the bracing is underslung so I think less issues. The downside is a bit more machine work. I will be staying with the R6 wheel though. It is 5.5 inches as opposed to 6 inches and is about 5 MM narrower at the axle, which can be spaced with washers on each side. Hopefully this will allow chain alignment without the XJR parts being required.
OK this is the url (s) I get now....which is different than previous. In the preview you can click on it and it opens the photo.
This is picture of the steering stop I fabbed up which we got welded on the old one:
"http://www.flickr.com/photos/39980957@N04/11380438643/#in/photostream/player/ (http://www.flickr.com/photos/39980957@N04/11380438643/#in/photostream/player/)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/39980957@N04/11657195216/#in/set-72157638283131196/ (http://www.flickr.com/photos/39980957@N04/11657195216/#in/set-72157638283131196/)
Front end is pretty much ready to roll...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/39980957@N04/11719653776/#in/photostream/player/ (http://www.flickr.com/photos/39980957@N04/11719653776/#in/photostream/player/)"
Jeff
Yes there are plenty of cheap swing arms on flea bay. The only issue with going that route is buying all the other parts you need , wheel, rotor , caliper , etc. Once added all up it can become quite pricey. It may be more cost effective and less time consuming to purchase a whole bike, strip off what you want and sell all the rest as parts. Just my thoughts.
Quote from: jscgdunn on January 06, 2014, 09:12:54 AM
Ok...can someone please help me with the new way to share flickr photos? :ireful:
Thanks,
Jeff
Here's how I do it.
Click on photo so you get the pic on your screen and see the magnifying glass when you hover your mouse over it.
Then right click so you will see a pop-up that says "View all sizes: Medium 500 • Medium 640 • Medium 800 • Large • Large 1600 • Large 2048 • Original"
I usually click the medium 800 for photo's on forums.
When you get the medium 800 on your screen, click right and select "copy image location"
Than put [*img] *click right and select paste* [/img] in your post. (do not use * in the img tags)
Then you'll get this (my FJ1200)
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7366/8971480279_c77033336a_z.jpg)
Quote from: REV1 on January 07, 2014, 03:11:39 PM
Quote from: jscgdunn on January 06, 2014, 09:12:54 AM
Ok...can someone please help me with the new way to share flickr photos? :ireful:
Thanks,
Jeff
Here's how I do it.
Click on photo so you get the pic on your screen and see the magnifying glass when you hover your mouse over it.
Then right click so you will see a pop-up that says "View all sizes: Medium 500 • Medium 640 • Medium 800 • Large • Large 1600 • Large 2048 • Original"
I usually click the medium 800 for photo's on forums.
When you get the medium 800 on your screen, click right and select "copy image location"
Than put [*img] *click right and select paste* [/img] in your post. (do not use * in the img tags)
Then you'll get this (my FJ1200)
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7366/8971480279_c77033336a_z.jpg)
Thanks a bunch....I will try again...for some reason I am not getting the ...farm...url anymore...I will try. :scratch_one-s_head: Gorgeous 86 by the way :good2:
Try this. In any post with a photo you can go to its upper right area and click on "reply with quotes". Then look at the code where images are coded in. In many photo sites like Flicker when you are viewing an image you can right click and one of the options is "Copy image location". Copy it, paste it between the [img*]Paste Here[/img*], * added to disrupt site from trying to show an image.
Quote from: jscgdunn on December 03, 2013, 06:31:56 AM
As winter sets in in earnest (-15 with a blizzard warning), it is, just as in Norway (Ken) a "good time for modding".
Yes indeed! Winter is normally the best period for those great upgrades on the bike. The only sad thing this year is that up here there has almost not been any winter at all this year... :dash1:
A week or so below freezing, the rest has just been rain and 7-10 degrees Celsius... Damn i could still been riding...
Anyway, been away a little while with work, so i have a lot of catching up to do on the forum..
It looks like you have put in a lot of work, love the thread :good2: Keep those pictures coming. Have some mods coming up as well, but nothing as extensive as you. (I hope)
Cheers
Ken
Exhaust
Finally got Flickr figured out. For some reason, the "embed" radio button was clicked instead of the HTML button....now I get the righ link.
The Supertrapp bolted right up..it came off an 86, Got it off ebay and in really good shape.
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3831/11718576766_5a9978029c.jpg)
Footpegs/Shifter
I bought this rivnut tool and it works great. If you own a 3XW you may find the nut inside the frame falls off...the repair is with an 8MM rivnut.
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7457/11718989254_9facb4da76.jpg)
The footpegs also can have the same problem with the "warning" bolts...or what ever the technical term is. Here is the rivnut installed. Thats the warning bolt off to the left. I then ground off quite a bit of it with the grinder so the rubber pad would go on.
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7337/11718983384_70c7d60c3e.jpg)
Here's the peg installed. I cut off the footpeg brackets...I might miss the heel rests but I do have another set. Also installed is Randy's shifter bolt.
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5525/11720372256_e1b1c28e1b.jpg)
Here is the right side.
(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2860/11719989983_567dc7c512.jpg)
This is a lousy picture, but here is the old girl hooked up to the IV. As I mentioned, I simply cleaned the carbs in the ultrasonic and put them back together....no new parts. This motor had not run in about 15 years. First did a bit of testing by running fuel pump and filling the bowls....no leaks or dripping from the overflow hoses. Good battery. I touched the started and it started within in two seconds...amazing... Just let it idle till it warmed up. Did not even have the choke on.
We had a nice day so I got it down off the work table and outside to sync the carbs. I found that vacuum was very low. I was able to synch the carbs. It would idle but then after blipping hang at 3000-4000 RPM....I suspect a vacuum leak. Pilot screw O-rings were note very good and I have ordered Randy's o-ring and screw kit. Could also be manifold O-rings but I have not yet been able to diagnose
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7302/11718553104_8513d2a994.jpg)
Quote from: keand3 on January 08, 2014, 12:30:05 PM
Quote from: jscgdunn on December 03, 2013, 06:31:56 AM
As winter sets in in earnest (-15 with a blizzard warning), it is, just as in Norway (Ken) a "good time for modding".
Yes indeed! Winter is normally the best period for those great upgrades on the bike. The only sad thing this year is that up here there has almost not been any winter at all this year... :dash1:
A week or so below freezing, the rest has just been rain and 7-10 degrees Celsius... Damn i could still been riding...
Anyway, been away a little while with work, so i have a lot of catching up to do on the forum..
It looks like you have put in a lot of work, love the thread :good2: Keep those pictures coming. Have some mods coming up as well, but nothing as extensive as you. (I hope)
Cheers
Ken
Thanks Ken,
I guess NA is getting all the cold weather. I guess you can start to plant palm trees....
Jeff
Had i known, I would been riding year round this year! :dash1:
Well, the meteorologist over here have said winter will come next week.... But I don't believe it, not until I see it for my self... Anyway, ain't winter until it's painfull to smile outside :rofl2:
The Plastic
This bike had, at some point over the past 20 years, had a crash on it's right side. From the outside it is not too bad, but the right inner firing panel was badly cracked and the mounting tab broken off. I got a good replacement off ebay.
The fairing had been repaired before but was now the repair was broken. I ended up buying this key after paying too much for repairs on our 86 project. It was less than $200; I figure I can pay for it in a few hours of repairs.
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Mini-Weld-Airless-Plastic-Welding-kit-URE5600HT-5600HT-Urethane-supply-NEW-/190781311753 (http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Mini-Weld-Airless-Plastic-Welding-kit-URE5600HT-5600HT-Urethane-supply-NEW-/190781311753)
This is what it looked like. I did have the missing pieces.
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5545/11719588505_ab529ceb0c.jpg)
After about an hour this is what it looks like:
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7449/11720089824_091c713841.jpg)
Not for viewing by the general public (it is under the scoop) but it is strong and I was able to get the grommet back in and bolt it up.
Nice work :good2:
Plastic welding is an art. Have repaired a few things my self, but it is difficult to get it esthetically nice. But well worth it.
The R1 Swingarm
As I mentioned, the R6 swingarm presented clearance issues due to the topside bracing.
Here is a shot of the rear brake banjo bolt
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7457/11762203445_d334ec1f0f.jpg)
And here is the contact with the subframe...that's the fender mounting tab.
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3708/11763016426_f08568b2a2.jpg)
The is the width of the R1 swingarm at the mounting point
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5541/11788272443_b0f593acab.jpg)
And here is the FJ, about 10 MM including the dust caps.
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3725/11788733284_58b2c734e6.jpg)
At the wheel mounting about 210 MM
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7332/11788321875_28519e2e57.jpg)
And the FJ...the same
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7341/11788316855_380fb68c48.jpg)
Absolutly beautiful work :good: Havent been on in a while, but that looks like it is coming along nicely!
Thanks WR!
In the middle of the photo is the R1 swingarm pivot pieces. The FJ pivot bushing is at the top of the photo. You can see that the drive side of the R1 swingarm has a larger bearing than the offside.
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3834/11934184045_f1675d9200.jpg)
This next photo shows the R1 bushing compared to the Fj bushing. The FJ bushing is just a bit too large to fit inside the R1 bushing. In terms of length, the R1 bushing is about 10MM longer
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3805/11935039036_2d23927a19.jpg)
Here they are lined up again...I asked the machinist to take just a bit off the drive side so there would be enough bearing surface and to take the rest off the offside. He will then turn down the FJ bushing and press it inside the R1 bushing. In addition he will mill off 3mm from each side of the swing arm. The bushing final length is about 2-4 MM longer than the width of the swingarm. I left R1 and FJ swingarms complete with dust caps so he could measure himself.
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7369/11934202755_57123517b0.jpg)
I am in awe of your skills. :good2:
Quote from: jscgdunn on January 10, 2014, 02:03:03 PM
At the wheel mounting about 210 MM
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7332/11788321875_28519e2e57.jpg)
And the FJ...the same
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7341/11788316855_380fb68c48.jpg)
Really? The same? :scratch_one-s_head:
So, presumably, if one already had another rear wheel swap on their FJ, seems it should line up perfectly if one wanted to just add
the R1 arm.
Sorry, don't mean to jack the thread, just (sorta) thinking out loud. :pardon:
Hello All-
I have been MIA for quite some time - apologies - life can be a real distraction from my FJ addiction..... Jeff- Sorry I missed your emails too. I am sending you an email address that will work better to actually get me!
Amazing progress on your FJR1/R6 conversion. I am particularly interested in your top triple clamp and the 2" extenders as I have not been very satisfied with the Cycle One Off units. They work - but I want pinch bolts instead of the set screws....
The 2007 R1 swingarm resolves many clearance issues at the top of the shock and subframe because of the "underbracing" vs. "overbracing" design. On my mod- we did not turn down or shorten any of the machined surface of the swingarm bushings (that the bearings ride on) because that is the "use" area and the thinking was we wanted all of that area for bearing contact. Instead, we cut the R1 inner bushing spacer exactly in half (sectioned it), removed material from the middle and welded it back together to match the FJ inner bushing length. Then pressed another set of bushings (one per side about an inch long) inside the R1 piece that had an ID to accept the FJ swingarm axle... that was it. The end caps/seals for the swingarm I bought new from Yamaha.
Jeff I have an already modified 2007 swing arm and (I think) a modified inner bushing on the shelf here. The first swingarm we modified had a gouge on it that was minor and could have been "blacked out" but I found another one that was perfect so we modified a second part.... Perfectionist OCD nit-picking really.... I will check my stash and let you know what might be available...
Regarding the linkage and the triangle - I turned the stock R1 Triangle connection upside down so that the short side connects to the shock and the longer side connects to the dogbone. This resulted in a "bolt up" solution with good fit. I did have troubles with the shock and the swingarm well... The FJ is heavier than the R1 and so the spring is wider- I had to use a special shock set up direct from Penske. It did not cost more than a typical shock for an FJ but it was custom. The reservoir would have to have been remote to clear the swingarm and I use a "clip" style mount to create an attached reservoir function. My spring is 1300 lbs. If you need them I will get you some more detail on my Penske purchase... And as Paddy advised - be sure to get a Torrington Bearing kit if and whenever you work on your shock as having that bearing inserted makes pre-tensioning easy and without it I was bending the adjuster tool...
Hoping to make the 2014 WCR Rally this May but can't be sure until its closer to May.... Hope everyone has been well and Happy New Year to all!
tim
Good to hear from you Tim! Hope to see you in Willits....
Tim I still haven't mastered posting pics from my phone. But I do have pictures of my over engineered extensions, in the gallery. I'm working on another idea for the extensions. If it works I'll post here. Sorry about post jack
;
Quote from: giantkiller on January 25, 2014, 04:31:44 PM
Tim I still haven't mastered posting pics from my phone. But I do have pictures of my over engineered extensions, in the gallery. I'm working on another idea for the extensions.
Here is the only one I could find in your gallery.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/4/2349_30_11_12_11_03_07.jpeg)
Randy - RPM
Thanks Randy. There's a cut obviously between the pinch bolts.so you don't ;have to worry about water build up. No need for lids. And with the clippons that I made. Once I slid the extensions up were they needed to be. I had adjustable handle bar height.
Hey giantkiller-
Jeff had emailed me about his conversion and I popped in to see this thread awhile back. I did see your extenders at that time and I think I saved the shots as reference. It would be fantastic not to have to make them so if you can hook me up I am in! Please keep me posted.
I think the set you made looks really good- Over engineered? Not even..... I like :bomb: proof.
I was going to ask you if they come off easily when loosened? That is one of the downsides on the press fit extenders - removal is not fun.
It might me in my head but without proper pinch bolts I am suspicious of movement or flex in the front end and that's no way to think while out for a brisk Sunday ride!
Cheers!
tim
Yah they are tight. Have to pry a little with a screw driver in the slot. If it works I'm going to have three sets made of the new ones. One for each of my bikes and one for my brothers fj.
Hey Dan, when the time comes...can you make more than 3 sets?....I'm with Tim.
If the machinist thinks it's going to work I'll ask what he wants to make them and I'll let you know.
Hey Giant- I would settle for some dimensions and design details if your guy doesn't want to do them. I can produce locally just thought why bother if someone already has their CNC spinning.
Pat- it's good to be back at the surface! I'm hopeful for Willits!!
Tim
Quote from: axiom-r on January 25, 2014, 12:34:29 PM
Amazing progress on your FJR1/R6 conversion. I am particularly interested in your top triple clamp and the 2" extenders as I have not been very satisfied with the Cycle One Off units. They work - but I want pinch bolts instead of the set screws....
On my mod- we did not turn down or shorten any of the machined surface of the swingarm bushings (that the bearings ride on) because that is the "use" area and the thinking was we wanted all of that area for bearing contact. Instead, we cut the R1 inner bushing spacer exactly in half (sectioned it), removed material from the middle and welded it back together to match the FJ inner bushing length. Then pressed another set of bushings (one per side about an inch long) inside the R1 piece that had an ID to accept the FJ swingarm axle... that was it. The end caps/seals for the swingarm I bought new from Yamaha.
Regarding the linkage and the triangle - I turned the stock R1 Triangle connection upside down so that the short side connects to the shock and the longer side connects to the dogbone. This resulted in a "bolt up" solution with good fit. I did have troubles with the shock and the swingarm well... The FJ is heavier than the R1 and so the spring is wider- I had to use a special shock set up direct from Penske. It did not cost more than a typical shock for an FJ but it was custom. The reservoir would have to have been remote to clear the swingarm and I use a "clip" style mount to create an attached reservoir function. My spring is 1300 lbs. If you need them I will get you some more detail on my Penske purchase... And as Paddy advised - be sure to get a Torrington Bearing kit if and whenever you work on your shock as having that bearing inserted makes pre-tensioning easy and without it I was bending the adjuster tool...
Tim and Giant Killer,
Thanks for all the info....I will try to address each item here:
I have 2 inch extenders (Cycle one-off) They just slide on with no pinch bolts or set screws...just a snug fit. I do not think the set screws would actually impart much security anyway. Tim have you noticed any sign of flexing? Would be a shame to go to the effort of installing a strong front end and then have flexing issues. I too would be interested in something a bit more robust.
I did get my bushing back with the FJ bushing turned down to fit inside. The R1 bushing was shortened mostly on the right side as I described, down to the FJ length. I had to install a thin washer on each side to make up for the thinner dust caps off the R1 and to ensure the FJ bushing has a bearing surface. In a "do over", I would shorten the R1 bushing the way I did, but take into account the difference in dust cap thickness to eliminate the washers. I would also press in the bushings the way Tim did, and probably use the old FJ bushing to make the press in bushings. The dust caps also had to be narrowed to go back on. I have it all bolted up and works really good.
I also have the R1 shock and linkage mocked up. Everything fits really good; as you noticed there is a pretty good lean on the shock. I will be using a 2012 Honda CBR 1000 shock and I have ordered a 1200 pound spring. My goal was to modernize the bike as much as possible....but I also am one of those cheapskates. This shock was a major improvement on the CBR 1000....you can read about it here:
http://www.motorcycle-usa.com/115/11800/Motorcycle-Article/2012-Honda-CBR1000RR-First-Ride.aspx (http://www.motorcycle-usa.com/115/11800/Motorcycle-Article/2012-Honda-CBR1000RR-First-Ride.aspx)
I was able to pick it up for $100, so I am really hoping it works out. Sorry no pics...left my phone out at the shop. will get some up in a few days.
A bit more propaganda:
http://rideapart.com/2011/09/the-cbr1000rrs-balance-free-rear-cushion-explained/ (http://rideapart.com/2011/09/the-cbr1000rrs-balance-free-rear-cushion-explained/)
Hi Jeff- be sure to check the swingarm has a full range of motion with the CB shock in there. Your higher weighted spring will come in a little wider diameter than the R1/R6 shock as that one is about a 600lb...
When I got my first test spring from Penske (1200lbs) it was too fat for the 2007 R1 swingarm passage....the fixed reservoir fouled on the arm too. that's how I ended up going custom. It would be fantastic of the CB spring was the higher weight and the narrow diameter!! It would make the conversion process that much easier for those who will follow this route after you!
Tim
PS- probably no real flex from the Cycle Oneoff's but I would feel better bolting the extenders on - as agreed the set screw is worthless...
(quick hijack) Hey Tim, I was thinking of you when this was posted: http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=10645.msg105048#msg105048 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=10645.msg105048#msg105048)
Thanks Tim,
I am hoping there will be enough room for the spring...there is good clearance for the R1 shock so here's hoping.
The Honda reservoir may cause issues with the battery box....but I do not think it will interfere with the swingarm:
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7376/12176938983_e01e484ce6.jpg)
Jeff - that is a good looking shock.... find out the stock spring weight- if its less than 1000 your new spring might be wider.
Pat- not a thread jack because Jeff will have to address the loss of the mechanical speedo too! I saw that thread and I am going to go that route. The idea of replacing the gauge (even at $800) seems like the best and most reliable solution vs. trying to install a box that can translate from electronic to mechanical. I am hoping that the new electronic gauge can be preset at a given mileage too- therby starting the new clock where the old one left off.... I will post to my thread when I take these steps.
tim
Quote from: axiom-r on January 27, 2014, 01:36:07 PM
.... The idea of replacing the gauge (even at $800) seems like the best and most reliable solution vs. trying to install a box that can translate from electronic to mechanical......
Naaa, shouldn't be that much, a 160mph GPS speedo 3 3/8"dia. will be ~$280....if you were to go crazy replace all three gauges (so they match) by getting a Tach and a fuel level/voltage dual gauge....you will still be around $620.
Meanwhile, back at the ranch: Machine work on swingarm completed. This is how much is left on each side:
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5510/12234558436_9ca46db1a7.jpg)
Here is the bushing turned down to fit inside the R1 bushing. As I mentioned earlier, the fj bushing is a bit too narrow because the R1 dust caps are thinner than the FJ ones. The FJ bushing was not quite perfect, and lathe showed where.
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3669/12233978585_0abf614fd6.jpg)
Here it is mounted. The bottle jack is there because fit with the thin washers inside each dust cap made it a tight fight; tapped it in with a rubber mallet and then used the jack to help get it into the final resting place.
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7381/12234153483_bb2024c7dc.jpg)
This is the R1 shock mocked up. Note the offset to the left.
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7432/12234545946_d59ccd12fa.jpg)
and from the side
(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2834/12233975955_5f7797e6d7.jpg)
This is the dog bone...it is not quite all the way to the right of the front mount. I cut down the bushing from the stock FJ link to fit here.
(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2805/12234544266_d89283cff7.jpg)
And from the side
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7348/12233965585_486a0445c8.jpg)
R6 Wheel mounted. One 3mm washer on each side as it is narrower than the R1 wheel (5.5 vs 6 inch wheels)
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3699/12234367694_12c336b2d8.jpg)
Don't mind the mess....idiot at work :pardon:
(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2880/12234535206_3bdfd2c070.jpg)
Oh, and for you flyboys...another flying FJ
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7348/12234392094_f9f7260b37.jpg)
Looking great Jeff ! I admire your work in the "puzzle palace". That shock looks familiar :good2:. Is the flying FJ the 89 ?
George
Looking really good and very familiar! Jeff one of the things I did was remove the spring from the shock, mount it back up, and move the swing arm through its full range of motion by hand with the wheel off. This allows you to observe any point of contact that might occur in a bottom out condition. This procedure resulted in ruling out the use of a piggyback mounted reservoir shock as at the highest level of compression the swing arm would foul on the reservoir.
You may have found a slightly different way to bolt the linkage together that eliminates this issue but I was not able to avoid it after running through multiple configurations and positions of the triangle. I went as far as to buy triangles that were different dimensions from other production years of the R1 - still no luck.
Please do this test as bottoming out hard with contact between the shock res and swing arm would be a significant safety threat and would/could cause a catastrophic failure of the shock..
Man, I have to say that the 2007-2009 R1 swing arm is just ideal for the FJ's. Especially later models that had ABS - the offset of the arm matches so nicely with the offset of the shock.
Nice to see this mod happening again.... When a third conversion occurs it will be a "movement".
Cheers- :drinks:
tim
Hi George,
Yes that is the '89...really the assembly of a parts bike form all the pieces left over and gather up. Again, always amazed how little interchangeability model to model. A 3XW motor into a 3CV frame presents a number of challenges.
I think the following will address some of Tim's questions:
No shock here but virtually no interference with subframe,
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3801/12287328383_68131887c2.jpg)
Here is a shot of the Honda shock installed with no spring and at top of travel. Very slight deflection of chain guard at top of travel.
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3816/12422294543_a2acbf01b1.jpg)
I did have to cut the battery box down and plastic weld it back together. Lith Ion battery is only 3.75 inches tall:
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7397/12422131615_7ca3086ef1.jpg)
Here is a comparison
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3824/12422297693_b83de58c73.jpg)
I built a spacer for the bottom mount out of the Honda dogbone. Had to grind 4MM off it.
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7295/12422287413_2f79a41b52.jpg)
The shock interfered with the fender so I cut a relief in and covered over
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3703/12422146545_668198dc11.jpg)
The R6 wheel required a 3mm washer on each side. This moved the brake stay out. I drilled, tapped and screwed in 2 3/8 bolts to ride in the groove
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5520/12422306363_d636947d7a.jpg)
Being it was -25 Sunday morning, I was reminded to install these
(http://<[url=http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7326/12422148305_b0f15cf098.jpg%5Dhttp://farm8.staticflickr.com/7326/12422148305_b0f15cf098.jpg%5B/url%5D)
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7381/12422303813_140e760360.jpg)
I await the spring from eShocks
Looks good ! You know that air box could go away :lol: :lol:..
George
Good idea George. Put some Unifilter Pods on their instead of the crappy Yamaha airbox and you'll have heaps more room under there. (Plus also have proper filtration!)
Been a while since I had time to do much on this...anyway Eibach 1200 pound spring received. You can see it is a bit shorter that the original.
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3715/12833341903_47e7e692b3.jpg) (http://flic.kr/p/ky3erz)
Also 5mm larger in diameter; sorry for the lousy pic.
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7414/12833342693_21e58c8510.jpg) (http://flic.kr/p/ky3eFc)
I got it mounted. As you can see the cheapo spring compressors took a beating. Race tech supplied the aluminum spacer.
(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2862/12947030315_5f2d06e198.jpg) (http://flic.kr/p/kJ5V3B)
I also had to get the bottom eye turned down (it is quite a bit wider) to fit the R1 linkage. The bearing and the seals from the R6s shock worked fine.
A few more shock notes: I also had to press out the top mount bushing as it could not be drilled. This is pretty difficult as it has a spring clip under the seal on one side and the other side is smaller...thus it can only be pressed out one way. I tried it myself with my six inch vice but actually broke the vice.
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7376/12514156004_b1856ef8c5.jpg) (http://flic.kr/p/k4QjAq)
Eventually got it out and got a new bushing made for it. I think it might be better to modify the frame to accept the smaller bolts with he more modern shocks.
So I got everything put back together. Another addition was the elimination of the signal lights. I got these turn signals off ebay...I paid about 15.00 form a US supplier but then I saw them again from China for about $5.00...do a bit of searching. They stick on with a 3m tape and seem really solid. We'll see. By the way, the lith ion battery is really light compared to stock and really cranks it over.
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7222/13254662993_f45020b257_c.jpg)
Here is a pic of it all put together except windshield...I need some polishing lessons from George or Pat.
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3666/13254877424_98665074b4_c.jpg)
Looks great :good: Jeff. What is the length of the Honda shock? And is that a 2012? Cheapest 2012 I could find was $200 when I just looked.
Thanks Dan
The Honda shock is very close to the same length as the R1 (and 92FJ) shock...right about 12 inches. George mentioned it to me and my first ebay search at the time found me a 2012 in Edmonton for $100...so I grabbed it. The 2011 is the same length and looks similar but it is not the "high tech" one the 2012 is. Comparing them side by side you can see the difference.
Jeff
Thanks Jeff. I'll keep looking for a 2012.
jscgdunn , just noticed the placement of your turn signals, as I was looking into something similar.
But reading the BC laws I'm wondering since those are not DOT/TC approved and too close together, that you might be setting yourself up for a ticket?
Mounting of lamps and reflectors
4.03 (1) If 2 lamps of the same type are required or permitted on a vehicle, the lamps must be mounted at the same height unless otherwise specified in this Division.
(2) If 2 lamps of the same type are required or permitted on the side, front or rear of a vehicle, the lamps must, unless otherwise specified in this Division, be mounted with one lamp at or near the extreme left and one lamp at or near the extreme right of the vehicle, so as to indicate the approximate width of the vehicle.
[en. B.C. Reg. 476/98, s. 2.]
I am sure they might be a problem that way here in Alberta as well, however integrated TS are very common mod on sport bikes here. I am such a wild and crazy guy I think I will take the risk. :wacko2:
Finally, completely coming together. VFR 750 clutch master (14MM). The levers came from China, but are pretty nice. Still looking for two more stainless allen bolts to match on the handle bar mount.
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7367/13544765064_592241ab02.jpg)
I painted all of the removeable parts of the engine case. The stainless allen bolts work and look pretty good.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3712/13544464925_b130893392.jpg)
Here is the other side. I even painted the WIX spin on.
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7368/13544579293_b1b4dd70f0.jpg)
I lost a good friend of mine last fall. He had just bought an 85 1100 and got to ride it about 5 times. He just loved it. One morning he did not wake up. Left four kids.
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7326/13308989835_f1c2f1ffbe.jpg)
On Saturday the sun came out and I rolled it out side for a wipedown and pic.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5105/13544596873_2439ecd395.jpg)
On Sunday it looked like riding still a ways away
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2832/13544823044_50a6212b61.jpg)
Quote from: jscgdunn on April 02, 2014, 08:19:24 PM
Finally, completely coming together.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3712/13544464925_b130893392.jpg)
That looks like a hammer finish gunmetal grey you have used, I like it.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5105/13544596873_2439ecd395.jpg)
I like some of the detail on this. The frame painted, and while not usually a fan of rim tape, the red looks good on the black rims.
All round, looks great.
Noel
Looks great. I like your memorial, good way to remember your friend and to not forget that everyday is a gift. Will be anxious to hear how it trims out on the road when the weather clears.
George
Thanks George, Maybe in a few weeks...mid April is usually our first riding weekend...but this year who knows?
Quote from: ribbert on April 02, 2014, 08:49:56 PM
That looks like a hammer finish gunmetal grey you have used, I like it.
I like some of the detail on this. The frame painted, and while not usually a fan of rim tape, the red looks good on the black rims.
All round, looks great.
Noel
Thanks Noel. Actually it is the hammered black.
Regards,
Jeff
Looks really great. I thought the paint was gray too. It must be reflecting something back. Like the controls too. :drinks:
Thanks Joe,
Contrasted against the original engine it does look a bit grey; probably also the metallic in it reflects the flash. I will defer to your obvious knowledge of paint, especially with respect to RED. :good: Your execution is almost surreal and I bet it generates tons of comments. Now you just need a :diablo: suit. Looks great.
Jeff
Everybody that see's it say's the same thing. "I need sun glasses to look at that bike" :biggrin:
First ride yesterday....a few little issues but I got from Bragg Creek to Calgary. Like all Fjs rock solid and stable. Very smooth in terms of vibration. Motor pulls really hard...can tell it is fresh. All good so far.
The 18 38 gearing dropped rpms to about 3400 at 100 Km per hour.
Jeff
Nice. Nothing like the first ride ehh :good2:
18 38 looks to be a good combo for highway comute, am i right?
Did thw rear wheel mod recently and i messed up a bit. I went with 17 front and 41 back.. It's fun and goes like a gun, but it's not my preferred choice for highway commute. I have about 50km to work one way so i manage for now. Next time around I'll go for something similar to you.
Cheers
Ken
Thanks Ken,
Yes it does not feel like I should be shifting to the next gear in 5th....I always thought Mr. Yamaha forget to put in a six speed when they went from sport (84 1100) to sport touring.....
Jeff
Sounds like you got it, Jeff.
Driving around town today, theres a good hill that goes up from the shore 100 ft or so. I come right on to her in second. If I gave it anymore, the front would have started coming up. What a rush! :wacko1: