I have mention earlier in an another thread of my high and low beam issue. For a while there I tought i manage to fix it cause of some poor connections. But no. :dash2:
Been cleaning every connector on the front part of the bike when i thought i had fixt it. But today it started again.
The low beam came and went just as it pleased. Just like my salary :rofl:
Since i have ruled out the wiring and bulb, the remaining part left is the handlebar light switch itself.
I know i could open it up and re soldering, but will it really last?
I am considering replacing the whole thing, the question is with what? An used OME light switch or a new universal one?
You've got any suggestions?
Cheers
It may not need replacement. :unknown:
Try opening it up... it may just be dirty in there.
Quote from: not a lib on September 11, 2013, 11:28:19 AM
It may not need replacement. :unknown:
Try opening it up... it may just be dirty in there.
Thats what i thought too.. But one of the screws is completely torn to piceses and the housing wont separate. And im afraid to damage the housing when drilling it out..
Quote from: keand3 on September 11, 2013, 11:42:35 AM
Thats what i thought too.. But one of the screws is completely torn to piceses and the housing wont separate. And im afraid to damage the housing when drilling it out..
If you can use a center punch on it and a reverse twist drill in a drill press, it will probably come out pretty easily as soon as the drill gets a bite.
Thanks for the tip. Will give it a go to morrow..
I guess there is not much lost by trying to get that screw out. I am going to try to replace all my switch screws with allen heads. Those crappy Japanese phillip's head screws should go in the trash IMO... Mine are in good shape now but I have had problems with them in the past. :dash2:
George
It's not so much the screws quality, as it is most people use the wrong driver..... The screws are JIS(Jap. Industrial Spec.) and are different than standard Philips head. Grinding the tip of a PH driver a little usually allows it to work well with JIS screws. It doesn't take much.... just enough for ths driver to seat in the cross.
Quote from: RichBaker on September 11, 2013, 08:26:14 PM
It's not so much the screws quality, as it is most people use the wrong driver..... The screws are JIS(Jap. Industrial Spec.) and are different than standard Philips head. Grinding the tip of a PH driver a little usually allows it to work well with JIS screws. It doesn't take much.... just enough for ths driver to seat in the cross.
I have a couple of modified drivers and I agree they get buggered up using the wrong tool. I am still going to allen heads. :lol: Another thing that bugs me is to take them out or adjust them you are working upside down. The allen heads would be easier. JIS screws need to be recycled :rofl2:
George
Quote from: RichBaker on September 11, 2013, 08:26:14 PM
It's not so much the screws quality, as it is most people use the wrong driver..... The screws are JIS(Jap. Industrial Spec.) and are different than standard Philips head. Grinding the tip of a PH driver a little usually allows it to work well with JIS screws. It doesn't take much.... just enough for ths driver to seat in the cross.
In addition to Rich's excellent suggestion, the following also work.
A few sharp belts with a hammer on a steel shaft PH screwdriver while pushing down hard and twisting works well if they are not too far gone. (like a manual hammer driver, but this works)
If the cross is spread or twisted, as opposed to chewed out, a belt with a hammer will close up the slots. The hammer blow also has the effect of freeing the thread. Then try again with the screwy.
A good quality screw driver is a must. Some brands are unfortunately too pointy even when new. I regularly throw my PH2 in the bin and replace it. DO NOT use a cheap or worn one.
Being able to deliver a sharp dead blow to the screw head without springiness is the key to loosening it.
Knowing WHEN to stop if what you a doing is not working, the more you trash it the harder it gets.
Small vice grips will grip the screw heads, especially the carby screws.
Finally, if all else fails, cut a slot with the Dremel and use a big flat blade screw driver.(At last, a use for the Dremel I agree with)
These screws are small, you don't need THAT much force to get them started, just good purchase to crack them.
IMHO, hammer drivers are the most useless tool ever invented for removing screws.
When finally removed, replace them with Allen heads and do not overtighten with this new found leverage. They are small screws going into ally.
Having finally removed it, resist the temptation to put it back in, "just for now" but not over tighten it. It will tighten itself up and present you with the same problems next time.
The success of these procedures is relative to feel and experience and knowing when to use which one. I don't recall ever meeting a screw that wouldn't come out with one, or a combination of the above.
Noel
For Phillips screws with stripped heads I've had good success using a sharp punch and a hammer to break them loose.
I also recently disassembled a new set of carbs using a Ryobi electric impact screwdriver that I bought from Home Depot. It looks like a drill, but seem to operate like an air impact wrench. Very effective at breaking the screws loose.
Thanks guys. Will try to get the screw out today and see how things looks inside of the switch..
It just so annoying knowing that only my high beam works, and driving without a low beam, or driving lights if you like, will only get me fined and constsntly pulled over...
Quote from: FJ_Hooligan on September 11, 2013, 10:39:10 PM
I also recently disassembled a new set of carbs using a Ryobi electric impact screwdriver
Those things are the bees knees. But I am reluctant to recommend anything with its own power source. They are a great tool but also have the capacity to stuff up the screw in a nano second if unfamiliar with them.
Noel
I've had good luck with impact (hammer) drivers, very rarely do bugger up the screw. Usually I don't even have to smack it with the hammer..... Even when a regular driver won't budge it.
Quote from: RichBaker on September 12, 2013, 07:18:46 PM
I've had good luck with impact (hammer) drivers, very rarely do bugger up the screw. Usually I don't even have to smack it with the hammer..... Even when a regular driver won't budge it.
+1
Quote from: RichBaker on September 12, 2013, 07:18:46 PM
I've had good luck with impact (hammer) drivers, very rarely do bugger up the screw. Usually I don't even have to smack it with the hammer..... Even when a regular driver won't budge it.
A hammer driver you don't hit with a hammer IS a regular driver.
Noel
Quote from: ribbert on September 13, 2013, 07:47:17 AM
Quote from: RichBaker on September 12, 2013, 07:18:46 PM
I've had good luck with impact (hammer) drivers, very rarely do bugger up the screw. Usually I don't even have to smack it with the hammer..... Even when a regular driver won't budge it.
A hammer driver you don't hit with a hammer IS a regular driver.
Noel
Not really, it's just being used like one.
As Rich said, sometimes the bits in my impact driver will get a solid bite on a screw when my regular screwdrivers won't.
Quote from: FJ_Hooligan on September 11, 2013, 10:39:10 PM
I also recently disassembled a new set of carbs using a Ryobi electric impact screwdriver that I bought from Home Depot. It looks like a drill, but seem to operate like an air impact wrench. Very effective at breaking the screws loose.
This is my new favorite tool. I'm using a Makita impact driver, --same idea. I've been using them in the (carpentry) field for a few years and they're fantastic--much better for driving screws than a cordless drill/driver . Last year I bought a 3/8" and a 1/2" socket adapter to fit the impact driver. You can pick them up at Home Depot among other places. . It's great for spinning bolts on and off--
much quicker than the pendulum / rachet motion . Be careful --it tightens bolts quickly--I still get the final tightening by conventional means i.e. / socket or wrench.
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/MAKITA-Cordless-Impact-Driver-5WFT5?gclid=CKOWvN-_yLkCFXBo7AoddlQARQ&cm_mmc=PPC:GooglePLA-_-Power%20Tools-_-Cordless%20Tools-_-5WFT5&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=5WFT5&ef_id=UTTFgQAAARUCJe9o:20130913133931:sbut (http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/MAKITA-Cordless-Impact-Driver-5WFT5?gclid=CKOWvN-_yLkCFXBo7AoddlQARQ&cm_mmc=PPC:GooglePLA-_-Power%20Tools-_-Cordless%20Tools-_-5WFT5&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=5WFT5&ef_id=UTTFgQAAARUCJe9o:20130913133931:sbut)
link is to the driver but note: without the batteries and charger...
Great minds think alike....?
Quote from: markmartin on September 13, 2013, 08:49:20 AM
This is my new favorite tool. I'm using a Makita impact driver, --same idea. I've been using them in the (carpentry) field for a few years and they're fantastic--much better for driving screws than a cordless drill/driver . Last year I bought a 3/8" and a 1/2" socket adapter to fit the impact driver. You can pick them up at Home Depot among other places. . It's great for spinning bolts on and off--much quicker than the pendulum / rachet motion . Be careful --it tightens bolts quickly--I still get the final tightening by conventional means i.e. / socket or wrench.
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/MAKITA-Cordless-Impact-Driver-5WFT5?gclid=CKOWvN-_yLkCFXBo7AoddlQARQ&cm_mmc=PPC:GooglePLA-_-Power%20Tools-_-Cordless%20Tools-_-5WFT5&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=5WFT5&ef_id=UTTFgQAAARUCJe9o:20130913133931:sbut (http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/MAKITA-Cordless-Impact-Driver-5WFT5?gclid=CKOWvN-_yLkCFXBo7AoddlQARQ&cm_mmc=PPC:GooglePLA-_-Power%20Tools-_-Cordless%20Tools-_-5WFT5&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=5WFT5&ef_id=UTTFgQAAARUCJe9o:20130913133931:sbut)
Quote from: ribbert on September 13, 2013, 10:24:14 AM
I've been using these
(http://mcdn.toolking.com/catalog/product/w/1/w1390_1.jpg)
In one of these for years on cars and bikes.
(http://thumbs2.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/msgZolrPk_MC2tHG3z1zyKw.jpg)
But, as I said earlier, I am reluctant to recommend anything with it's own power source for automotive work UNLESS you are very familiar with the tool.
Thanks for the tip guys.
Tried several of the tips you've came with, but with moderate success.. I did get out (the screw that is) but the switch it self is all f$£€% up... :dash2:
Not only was the screw hard to get out, but the whole thing had also been glued together!! You gotta love easy peasy fixes from hell! :negative:
Never the less, the switch is beyond repairable and there is now way around but replacing it.
I found this on eBay, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-XJ550-XJ600-XJ650-XJ700-XJ750-UNIVERSAL-LEFT-HANDLEBAR-SWITCH-QS40007-/170919575120 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-XJ550-XJ600-XJ650-XJ700-XJ750-UNIVERSAL-LEFT-HANDLEBAR-SWITCH-QS40007-/170919575120)
It looks like it will work with just minor work on the wiring... What does you've guys think?
It looks like the OEM and would rather have that, then a universal one looking all strange and out of place when fitted on the handlebar.
Cheers
Ken
I've fitted xjr switches , easy to do, just trace the wires inside the switch and connect them to the matching switches , although the right side needed extra attention , but left side was fairly easy,, the right up is on here if I can find it for you
Xjr switches? Will be looking for those then i guess.
A writup would be perfect mate :good2: I waset able to retrive it with the search engine. :unknown:
Cheers
Got my replacment lefthand switch yesterday, and the first ting that i did is to cut of each of the connectors on the wires.
I would like to attache a 10 way blue connector block which the wireloom has as OEM. Search local stor and eBay for a 10 way block but can't seem to find one..
My search input might be of, but i can find almost everything else, but it would be nice attach a new block that fit straight into the female block on the harness, insteda og foing throuh the process of replacing on bothside.
The switch has by the way 10 wires, and not all the wires has the same color as on the harness. Should be easily sought out, but from a quick look at the bike it looks like ther is 12 wires out of the switch wiring?? Any ideas?
Havent got the manual infront of me, am at work u see :-)
In undone both switches fj/xjr and just swapped the corresponding wires in the connector block, no cutting involved just needed to modify one wire ,, I'll search for my post
xjr indicator switches « on: 19-10-2011, 07:00:07 »
If your sick of the almost vintage switch Block,its an easy conversion to fit xjr left switches , all wires are the same except one yellow/red on the Fj ,and the plug needs changing to match the fj, even get hazard lights for whatever reason yamaha fitted them , the extra Fj wire goes to the black wire from the switches
Thanks, found the post.
I'm curious, when you attached the wires into the block, did you use the old bullet connectors or did you get new ones?
Sorry, i don't know what those "pins" that you attached in the end of the wire, and thread inside the block is called.
All i know that this "pins" aren't available around here locally, only bigger bullet connectors, and they dont fit inside the block. With the right name i might have more luck search eBay :yahoo:
Okey.
Been a while since i looked at the switch issue, but today i got around to it.
As mention earlier in this thread it need to be solded again.
The blue middel wire on the high/low switch was completely torn off.
I have also bought a complete replacment to have as a spare, but it misses the 8 pin blue connector on the end of the cables harness.
Been looking locally and on web for a connector like this but cant find one.
Any one know were i can get a hold of one? If im able to, i want to have a complete plug instead of having to slice each wire and add a bullet connector on each cable, either befor the connector or around it.
In case you wounder how it looks like:
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/6/2912_16_11_13_6_16_53.jpeg)
Cheers
Ken
Ken:
Here's some possible sources for a mating connector and receptacles (sockets) for your application.
I have used Vintage connections, Oregon Motorcycle Parts, and Eastern Beaver for some projects, and they are good to work with. Vintage Connections has reasonable shipping costs. You may, due to your location, have to pay more for shipping.
Good luck.
Marty
http://vintageconnections.com/ (http://vintageconnections.com/)
http://www.oregonmotorcycleparts.com/connectors.html (http://www.oregonmotorcycleparts.com/connectors.html)
http://cycleterminal.com/ (http://cycleterminal.com/)
http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/connectors.html (http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/connectors.html)
http://www.electrosport.com/accessories/connectors-and-wiring.html (http://www.electrosport.com/accessories/connectors-and-wiring.html)
I told you I hate those JIS screws :dash2: :biggrin:.. In also replaced those switch JIS's with allen socket heads...
If it's any help I have an old 1990 left switch that the casting was cracked do to an unintentional meeting with the road... I replaced the switch but kept the old one. As soon as the sun comes up I can go check it out. Anyhow its yours if you need it for shipping.
George
Here is another source of electrical connectors for motorcycles.
http://www.cycleterminal.com/ (http://www.cycleterminal.com/)
George
Hehe, thanks George.. :good2:
I am happy to rapport that i allready have change those JIS to allen heads ;)
Thanks for the offer on the switch but i think im good for now. I will be resoldering the OEM wire harness over to the new switch that i have bought.
3 reasons for that.
1. I don't have the connector block now and i have time to work on it today.
2. Some plastic parts in the old switch its self is broken and need to be replaced with new on anyway.
3. Just for fun :good2:
I acctualy have 2 new switches laying around, and a lot of dodgy old connectorblocks on the bike, so there will be some soldering and replacment during this winter.
Thanks for the tips on those web site Marty and George! They will come in handy for sure!