float setting

chiz · July 28, 2013, 08:07:44 AM

Hey Al I know this topic has been murdered but I would like a straight forward ans if possible
It seems there are two places on the float to take the measurement from this crops up everywhere I look no matter the source. If it is on the higher flatter part what would the measurement be? if it is the rounded part below the flat part what is the measurement here?
Thanks Lez

rktmanfj · July 28, 2013, 10:06:24 AM

http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=4482.0

chiz · July 28, 2013, 10:20:26 AM

Ok good thank you

Below is a direct quote from another site what does everyone think?I am about to install Uni pod filters as a work around for fuelling problems on an 84 (fuel line can have better slope). Have already realized #3.
Regards Lez

1.-the clamps on don't stay fixed and they fall from their position. The Unipods look better at this respect

2.-you need a crankcase breather hose filter, and even with it, you will get your motor with oil splashed around. Look at the picture: it comes from the Yamaha workshop manual and it represents the oil vent circuit. Well, all that oil will splash around your bike when the crankcase filter saturate (very soon)

3,-without the airbox the carbs and the individuals are holding of the intake manifolds only. It is possible than all that weight could affect the conducts, breaking them

4.-the bike is affected for humidity and temperature changes very easily. And it goes like a pig when raining

rktmanfj · July 28, 2013, 10:47:12 AM

Quote from: chiz on July 28, 2013, 10:20:26 AM
Ok good thank you

Below is a direct quote from another site what does everyone think?I am about to install Uni pod filters as a work around for fuelling problems on an 84 (fuel line can have better slope). Have already realized #3.
Regards Lez

1.-the clamps on don't stay fixed and they fall from their position. The Unipods look better at this respect

2.-you need a crankcase breather hose filter, and even with it, you will get your motor with oil splashed around. Look at the picture: it comes from the Yamaha workshop manual and it represents the oil vent circuit. Well, all that oil will splash around your bike when the crankcase filter saturate (very soon)

3,-without the airbox the carbs and the individuals are holding of the intake manifolds only. It is possible than all that weight could affect the conducts, breaking them

4.-the bike is affected for humidity and temperature changes very easily. And it goes like a pig when raining

RPM supplied me with a nice crankcase breather hose filter with my pods...

Some pod equipped bikes may be affected by the rain, but on the FJ, the pods are pretty well shielded. I've been through several extended rainy day rides with no problems whatsoever (that had to do with the pods, anyway).

chiz · July 28, 2013, 11:08:01 AM

I have been measuring my float heights as described on site from gasket flange without gasket to"A" highest point on float it measures 25.6 mm on an outboard carb it is 21.5mm...This is maddening to me I assume the previous owner rode the bike like this as it was a regular rider.
I am measuring with a caliper as per pictures and making sure the needle slides down the barrel of the seat assembly and the tang on float just rests on the needle spring tip. The float that comes out at 21- 22 the adjustment tang on the float is nearly flush with the rest of the metal whereas the rest the angle of the tang is quite different don't know if the weird float heights were some kind of bodge around a running problem or if I should set things right,.
Lez

chiz · July 28, 2013, 11:09:37 AM

Directly off another FJ site.... I guess there may be an issue if the side panels were not replaced?

rktmanfj · July 28, 2013, 11:17:07 AM

I'm really baffled as to why you started your second thread of the day about this, so I guess we're even.

chiz · July 28, 2013, 11:26:29 AM

Ok it would seem that I am getting 22.5 mm to "B" the rounded part of the float on 3 of them... almost puts measurement A into disrepute as far as my carbs go?
Lez

Pat Conlon · July 28, 2013, 12:05:35 PM

Hello Lez, I merged your topics together.

We discussed float heights last month, and Randy @ RPM mentioned that the current picture we have in the files is incorrect (will be corrected)

The float height, according to the official Yamaha workshop manual, should be taken from the highest point on the curved section of the float.

Dimension B

Here's the discussion: http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=9560.0

Sorry for the confusion. Pat

chiz · July 28, 2013, 12:16:55 PM

OK that was kind of scary for a bit glad you could help me get to the bottom of this issue. Thanks
Lez

rktmanfj · July 28, 2013, 12:50:09 PM

Quote from: Pat Conlon on July 28, 2013, 12:05:35 PM
Hello Lez, I merged your topics together.

We discussed float heights last month, and Randy @ RPM mentioned that the current picture we have in the files is incorrect (will be corrected)

The float height, according to the official Yamaha workshop manual, should be taken from the highest point on the curved section of the float.

Dimension B

Here's the discussion: http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=9560.0

Sorry for the confusion. Pat

Thanks, Pat.

FWIW, I thought the one you posted was the one I'd bookmarked... obviously not.

racerrad8 · July 28, 2013, 03:15:19 PM

Quote from: chiz on July 28, 2013, 10:20:26 AM
1.-the clamps on don't stay fixed and they fall from their position. The Unipods look better at this respect

2.-you need a crankcase breather hose filter, and even with it, you will get your motor with oil splashed around. Look at the picture: it comes from the Yamaha workshop manual and it represents the oil vent circuit. Well, all that oil will splash around your bike when the crankcase filter saturate (very soon)

3,-without the airbox the carbs and the individuals are holding of the intake manifolds only. It is possible than all that weight could affect the conducts, breaking them

4.-the bike is affected for humidity and temperature changes very easily. And it goes like a pig when raining

1) What filter is being referred to regarding the falling off? The statement is not clear.

2) Yes, you need a breather filter to prevent debris from getting into the crankcase. Yes, the air box is designed to use vacuum to suck the crankcase gases into the carb throats and not release them to the atmosphere. But there should not be any oil up there.

Here is a post about this topic from earlier this year; Crankcase breather modification

3) No, the air box puts more strain on the intake manifolds that the weight of the UNI pod air filters. The air box is rigid mounted to the sub-fame. The engine has rubber mounting allowing it to move in the frame. The engine moves and the air box stays still. The engine is constantly pulling on the air box and cycling the intake manifolds. That is why they have a retaining ring around the carb flange at the intake manifold to keep them from popping out. The rubber velocity stacks are often pulled out of the air box though.

4) Nope, that is the benefit of the CV carb. As weather conditions and air density change, the slide travels at differing rates and height to compensate for proper fuel mixture. I can tell you I, as well as many customers who ride rain or shine and have never had, or heard of, a problem with water and the air filters. I guess if you did not run the side panels the air filter is subject to rain/water but as long as the lower rear fender is in position then the water should not be an issue for the air filters.

I am interested in the forum you obtained this information from, I would be glad to address this incorrect information on that website as well.

Randy - RPM

chiz · July 28, 2013, 06:22:18 PM

I guess some sort of pod filter or unifilter... I installed the uni filters on my bike but decided I will go back to the air box. This is after I got the bike started. It would seem even if they are free of oil on the flange they are prone to pop off if tightned too tightly and deep in my skull I knew it would be a fight in the end to achieve decent running with new set up and had not prepared for the crankase vent issue as the summer in running down. The bike has not been on the road yet. Though I may re enter the pod filter project if I can get some detail on carb set up.
It was not too clear if I gained anything without air box in way fuel line routing except the fact the line need not circle the diaphram cover before connecting the T I may sleep on this whole issue and change my muin again especially if the bike refuses to start again with the stock tank on.
Thanks Lez

chiz · July 28, 2013, 06:26:31 PM

http://www.fj1200.info/Home.htm
Site I got this info off of.

racerrad8 · July 28, 2013, 06:38:45 PM

Thank you for that information, I will have to get Alf dialed in on the UNI pod filters as well.

Yes, if there is oil on the carbs or rubber filter flanges they will slip off. If you over tighten the clamp(s) the rubber is compressed/distorted so much is has no option but to push itself off of the carbs. The clamps to not have to be that tight.

If you were to give me all of your information of location, altitude, weather conditions and riding style I can get your carbs pretty close on jetting with the UNI pod filters.

Then I have the breather filter in stock as well when you are ready to take the air box back off.

I recommend following the fuel line routing as it is labeled on your air box. If the line gets kinked or restricted you will have bigger performance issues than the incorrect jetting.

Randy - RPM

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float setting