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DDM Tuning HID Kit

Started by keand3, June 02, 2013, 03:50:58 AM

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fj11.5

Noo you don't want a monkey kicking  :lol:,  could be a fun project,  definatly worth a try if you have the spare light  :good2:
unless you ride bikes, I mean really ride bikes, then you just won't get it

84 Fj1100  effie , with mods
( 88 ) Fj 1200  fairly standard , + blue spots
84 Fj1100 absolutely stock standard, now more stock , fitted with Fj12 twin system , no rusted headers for this felicity jayne

FJmonkey

Just you know I am watching, keep an even keel, steady as she goes....
The glass is not half full, it was engineered with a 2X safety factor.

'86 Ambulance - Bent frame, cracked case, due for an overhaul
'89 Stormy Blue - Suits my Dark Side

keand3

Quote from: FJmonkey on June 14, 2013, 08:43:41 PM
Just you know I am watching, keep an even keel, steady as she goes....

Sir, yes sir!
Whant to check out my photos on the bike??
https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=828DDEC8DF631CA5%21103

FJmonkey

The glass is not half full, it was engineered with a 2X safety factor.

'86 Ambulance - Bent frame, cracked case, due for an overhaul
'89 Stormy Blue - Suits my Dark Side

keand3

Epic... Remind me to not travel to Africa without prior permission by the Power Monkey..
:good2:
Whant to check out my photos on the bike??
https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=828DDEC8DF631CA5%21103

keand3

Okey, I have now come to a conclusion. Some might say "told you so" but never the less, I've did satisfy my curiosity.

It was the possibility to obtain parts that halted this xenon projector mod i tried. Fitting the xenon projector inside the light housing was easy peasy, and relatively straight forward,.
Obtaining a clear glass/plastic lens/cover for the headlamp seems to be impossible. The contour in the glass distort the beam projected from the projector making the xenon light useless.
It was even worse then a improperly mounted HID kit, and would have blended oncoming traffic .

So by far installing the DDM kit is worth while, both money and time wise. Just make sure to adjust that damn beam/reflection correctly!
You woulden't want a monkey ass-kick, ehh?  :rofl2:

Cheers
Ken
Whant to check out my photos on the bike??
https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=828DDEC8DF631CA5%21103

fintip

Why is that impossible? Surely there's a way to buy plexiglass and shape it was a heat gun, no? Something like that?

And at you saying you fitted the proper HID reflectors inside the light housing?

I also wonder if  the contours in the stock glass might be smoothed out somehow; I imagine they are only on the surface.
fjowners.wikidot.com

Not everyone understands what a completely rational process this maintenance of a motorcycle is. They think it's some kind of a knack or some kind of affinity for machines in operation. They are right, but the knack is almost purely a process of reason.
-ZAMM

IBA:54952

keand3

Yes, plexiglass could be shaped, but to get a good fit would be hard imo.
I have no experience with sanding down glass,  so that was never an option for me, heck diden't think of it until now! :dash2:

Fitting a hid projector is no problem, as long as you have one that allowes enugh distance to lense.
Whant to check out my photos on the bike??
https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=828DDEC8DF631CA5%21103

Paul1965

Sorry that it didn't work out, but at least you weren't afraid to try! If you're good at fiberglass work, maybe you should try to replace the built in housing with something like this: http://www.futurevisionhid.com/h6054-200mm-hid-projector-headlight.html
1978 Yamaha 400 Sold
1984 Yamaha Maxim 400 Blew up
1982 Yamaha Vision Sold
1983 Kawasaki GPz1100 Sold
1984 Yamaha FJ1100 Killed it
1991 Yamaha FJ1200 Sold
2009 Triumph Sprint ST Sold
2014 Triumph Trophy SE

keand3

Quote from: Paul1965 on June 17, 2013, 02:55:35 PM
Sorry that it didn't work out, but at least you weren't afraid to try! If you're good at fiberglass work, maybe you should try to replace the built in housing with something like this: http://www.futurevisionhid.com/h6054-200mm-hid-projector-headlight.html

Hi Paul1965! Excellent tip, and es the thought of making a new housing has struck me.
I chose not to include it on this run of the idea since it would be very time consuming fabricating a mold and then cast the fiberglass. I am no expert on fiberglass, but know my way around good enugh to know that it includes a lot of skill and time.
But it probably would give the best result for a new housing for a HID projector since you could adjust it's size to fit the projector and it's mounting.
Maybe some time down the road I'll try it out.  :yes:

Cheers
Ken
Whant to check out my photos on the bike??
https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=828DDEC8DF631CA5%21103

Paul1965

You know, since that projector is it's own sealed unit, have you thought about leaving the stock lens off of the headlight assembly and epoxy some clear Lexan to the backside of the fairing? That way you'd retain the OE mount and aiming capabilities and have a clear lens for the projector to shine through. You could even add some horizontal scribes (AKA the Mad Max Interceptor) to the Lexan to make it look cool.
1978 Yamaha 400 Sold
1984 Yamaha Maxim 400 Blew up
1982 Yamaha Vision Sold
1983 Kawasaki GPz1100 Sold
1984 Yamaha FJ1100 Killed it
1991 Yamaha FJ1200 Sold
2009 Triumph Sprint ST Sold
2014 Triumph Trophy SE

keand3

Quote from: Paul1965 on June 17, 2013, 06:39:12 PM
You know, since that projector is it's own sealed unit, have you thought about leaving the stock lens off of the headlight assembly and epoxy some clear Lexan to the backside of the fairing? That way you'd retain the OE mount and aiming capabilities and have a clear lens for the projector to shine through. You could even add some horizontal scribes (AKA the Mad Max Interceptor) to the Lexan to make it look cool.

Yes, i did consider that option too.
Did cut some plexiglass and ducttapet it to back side of the fairing. IMO it  did look horrible front side. There just was something not right wurth the way it looked.
But it probably is the easies way around the problem.

Whant to check out my photos on the bike??
https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=828DDEC8DF631CA5%21103

Paul1965

Quote from: keand3 on June 17, 2013, 08:22:09 PM
Quote from: Paul1965 on June 17, 2013, 06:39:12 PM
You know, since that projector is it's own sealed unit, have you thought about leaving the stock lens off of the headlight assembly and epoxy some clear Lexan to the backside of the fairing? That way you'd retain the OE mount and aiming capabilities and have a clear lens for the projector to shine through. You could even add some horizontal scribes (AKA the Mad Max Interceptor) to the Lexan to make it look cool.

Yes, i did consider that option too.
Did cut some plexiglass and ducttapet it to back side of the fairing. IMO it  did look horrible front side. There just was something not right wurth the way it looked.
But it probably is the easies way around the problem.

You probably wouldn't want to try this unless you have a spare fairing laying around, but I'm sure there's a rolled lip on the inside of the fairing where the headlight housing goes that you could trim down so the Lexan would sit more flush. Heck, I'll bet you could even trace opening of the headlight on some cardboard and make a Lexan cutout that's the exact size you need, then leave enough on the sides and top to attach some mounting brackets to that you could then epoxy to the fairing. Man, the more I think about this the more I want to try it! And I keep saying Lexan because it's much tougher than standard plexiglass.


1978 Yamaha 400 Sold
1984 Yamaha Maxim 400 Blew up
1982 Yamaha Vision Sold
1983 Kawasaki GPz1100 Sold
1984 Yamaha FJ1100 Killed it
1991 Yamaha FJ1200 Sold
2009 Triumph Sprint ST Sold
2014 Triumph Trophy SE

red

A suggestion, FWIW:

Adel Clamps are used in aircraft, to clamp wiring or tubing to bulkheads and formers.



The metal part may be aluminum (fairly soft), or stainless steel (really rugged).
Google can find both types. 
The rubber part will grip a bike frame very well.  Adel Clamps come in all sizes, from "two wires" to "armband" sizes.
Adding a washer above and below the clamp, on the clamping screw, makes a very strong installation.
You can change (enlarge) the clamp size a bit, by adding washers to the bolt, between the metal ends.
Adel Clamps will make a stronger installation than Zip Ties.  They withstand vibration, heat and cold very well.



Cheers,
Red
Cheers,
Red

P.S. Life is too short, and health is too valuable, to ride on cheap parade-duty tires.