89 Fork setting ?

[turbocamino]

 Gentlemen, Last year i replaced springs and fluid (was all original/stock)..all seemed well enough...very noticeable difference.  Just a couple weeks ago i installed a new(old) FZR1000 lite weight front wheel and tire.  Another noticeable upgrade. Compression damping seems perfect.                    I feel, maybe,though that theres some fine tuning to be done on rebound?....as the wheel is MUCH liter now.  Should i lessen damping, to let the suspension do its job ...or stiffen it, as to control its up-word travel?  This is just fine tuning...its really pretty close.  Something just doesnt feel 100%... hard to put my finger on it though.  Anyone been down this road?  thanks.

[Grey runner]

I assume you do not have standard FJ forks? It is worth the trouble to get the right fork oil, despite what it might say on the label not all oils use the same rating, just because one make says it is 10W that means nothing. The correct way is to use a measurement called Centistokes. Use the correct oil as specified by the fork maker and then set every thing to STD and go from there.

[turbocamino]

  Its the stock 89 fork..as for fluid, i used 10wt. the fluid level was set with tubes collapsed and to a specific height measurement =from top of tube to fluid was (?) # of mm. ,as recommended by our resident fork guru..."slow old guy" David R.     BUT there seems to be another concern now. I was playing with settings, stationary, to see if it could learn anything...and I cant get the damper adjuster to move by itself, independently...they both move together??? (just as if i was pushing downward)  Maybe when i assembled it, the D rod didnt find the correct slot? 

[Grey runner]

Are you talking about a 3CV? I am fairly sure that if the D rod is not located properly then you can't get the fork cap on. Have you checked to make sure every thing moves independantly with the fork caps off?

[turbocamino]

Are you talking about a 3CV? I am fairly sure that if the D rod is not located properly then you can't get the fork cap on. Have you checked to make sure every thing moves independantly with the fork caps off?

3CV...not sure what that is?  I had read that that cap can go on and rod could be in a slot thats next to the D slot?  I have a manual but its not a clear picture of where to rod parks. I have not taken the cap back off to be sure the D rod will move by itself...I will though ..thanks for the idea.

[andyb]

3CV refers to the model.  89-90

The rod that hangs out of the fork cap and is quite long is the D rod.  It goes through the D-shaped hole at the bottom of the fork, and is occasionally a bastard to get in the proper hole.  A good flashlight and some peering down the inside of the fork will show you, though it's likely impossible to see through the oil.

Other than preload, the fork really only has one adjustment for both compression and rebound (other than different oil height and weight inside).  The adjusters should turn reasonably easily through their adjustments; if they do not, it's assembled incorrectly.  Take a screwdriver along and play with it as you ride!  (While stopped, of course.)

There isn't a huge amount of difference that I noticed in the settings, myself.  It's a very old fashioned damper rod fork, and like all suspension will be just a question of what kind of compromise you want out of it.  The proper answer is to replace the valving internally, if not the entire fork, for sporting work.  I like how plush they are, but square edged bumps (frost heaves!) will be a jolt no matter how they're set up if there is any oil inside at all.