Suzuki GSF1200 Bandit rear wheel swap

[Persistant]

In searching for a GSXR rear wheel and contemplating over the R1 front and rear swaps my buddy with the dwarf (legend) cars dug up a rear section of  GSF1200 Bandit (I think 2001-05 model).  I dragged it to my shop and with delight I found that the axle was the same diameter as well as the distance between the swing arm.  The wheel with all spacers and Suzuki caliper mount, fit nicely into the FJ swing arm.  The bandit wheel is a 17xMT 5.5 that presently has a very serviceable Michelin Pilot Road Radial 180/55-ZR17 mounted on it.  Put side by side with the FJ 16" wheel the GSF if about 1" shorter in height.  Brake rotor on the GSF is about 9.5", FJ about 11 1/8". 

javascript:void(0);Here's my first question:  The GSF tire being a lower profile, should I change the dog bones to return the bike to the normal height?

Second:  I am thinking since the GSF sprocket is a 45 tooth and the FJ is a 41 the better of the plans is to get a 40 or 41 sprocket rather than a longer chain as there isn't enough length right now.

3RD Question:  Do I use the rear brake caliper/rotor from the GSF or change the rotor and see if I can get a R1 to work?

I think during the winter I will look at doing the R1 swing arm and USD fork and wheel swaps from the 98 R1 he has but for now going to the 17" rear Bandit wheel will hold me over for this season.

Thoughts?  Advice?  I think I may have been infected by Moditis.....

[FJmonkey]

Infected? Check! To have gone this far, yes you are . If the rear rotors line up and the pads are positioned properly then I guess you get to chose. I would go with the smaller and lighter set up. Less unsprung weight and you don't need a large rear brake, just enough to get you that extra 20% when you need it. If you drop the rear then you are changing the steering rake angle. You may notice it as a little more sluggish when turning in to a corner. Many here raise the rear just to get the turn-in a little sharper and lighter. I will be putting dog bones on my 86' just for that reason. Get the smaller sprocket for the rear, 45T on the back will be very buzzy, specially of you ride the highways or freeways. This may help you decide www.gearingcommander.com

[movenon]

I would get the bike to at least back to normal ride height. Some of us raise the rear up a bit. It's up to you. You can always make dogbones to fit or buy adjustable ones.

I have a GSXR 750 rear wheel 17/5.5 and use a Bandit rear rotor. Works good for me. Not as strong as the FJ but I feel the stock FJ unit is pretty hefty. I use the front brakes most of the time. I don't need rear brakes that lock up to easily.

Rear sprocket is also a personal choice. I run 18/38 but I tour more than sport ride. Make sure the rear sprocket is for a 530 chain. I run a stock 110 link size chain. I think a 17/41, 18/38 or 17/38 etc should all work with 110 links.

Hope this helps a little. I am sure more members with more experience will chime in soon. I have no knowledge of R1 conversion other than what I have read. Check the search feature.    Moditis "no known cure".....

[Grey runner]

Standing the two wheels together with the tyres on is there a difference in wheel + tyre measurment? if not probably no need to worry about ride hieght

[HARTLESS]

so you used the Suzuki spacers or the stock fj spacers? let us know how everything goes!

[markmartin]

Here's my first question:  The GSF tire being a lower profile, should I change the dog bones to return the bike to the normal height?

Second:  I am thinking since the GSF sprocket is a 45 tooth and the FJ is a 41 the better of the plans is to get a 40 or 41 sprocket rather than a longer chain as there isn't enough length right now.


1. The calculated tire height difference between the 150/80-16 and the 180/55-17 is about 5/8" and about 7/16" if you go with a 170/60-17.  Either way you're dropping the axle height about a 1/4".   That's not a hell of a lot and within the acceptable sag range for setting the rear shock .  I'm using 1-1/8 to 1-5/8" sag for the rear--   Setting the sag to adjust the pitch of the frame on the wheels is different than changing the ride height with the length of the shock or dog bones, but I think you'd get through the summer fine with your sag set at the minimum side of tolerance and if you plan to do more work this winter as you mentioned, you could address it then.  As moveon said and I have found, I like my rear a little higher than stock setting but that's personal preference.  To that account, if you're going to be putting on USD front end I'm guessing you you're interested in suspension.  A Penske Shock will give you that rear height adjustment with out having to make dog bones and will be a noticeable upgrade to your rear suspension.  I think Randy's new shock is adjustable for ride height as well.  ?  Granted a new shock is going to run you more $$ that some homemade dog bones.  You could also drop your triples 1/4" - 3/8"  on your fork tubes and keep the same geometry until you decide on your final modifications  (Is there ever a FINAL modification??)  

2. As moveon and FJmonkey said, 38-41 on the rear.

[FJmonkey]

Randy's new shock is adjustable for ride height as well.  ?

Not adjustable, unless you have dog bones....

[fj1289]

Seems the common answer is to put the bike on the centerstand and make the dogbone length so the rear wheel is just off the ground.

That said, some prefer to raise the rear ride height even more and either remove the centerstand or use a 2x4 under it to get rear tire off the ground if needed.

98 R1 forks will work -- but need some work if you don't want to live with some of the limitations

[Persistant]

so you used the Suzuki spacers or the stock fj spacers? let us know how everything goes!

I used the Suzuki spacers as well as the calliper mount.  The FJ mount is about a 1/4" narrower than the Suzuki.  I didn't get a chance to really work on it today but hopefully get some time this week during the evenings (glad the sun was replaced with rain while I play with this...).
Thank you all for your input so far.  I watched that Youtube video in one of the threads on setting your sag so I will check that as well as both tires on and the height difference from the ground when on the center stand.
I did pick up the rest of the donor parts (R1 frame w/front/rear suspension/wheels/brakes, FZR1000 front/rear wheels) today and found the FZR front wheel axle shaft is bigger (not by a lot, haven't mic'd it yet) and the R1 front and rear axle shafts are even bigger.
The thought came to my head that if the R1 front or rear wheels could be rigged (if needed) to fit space wise between the swing arm or fork tubes, would it be advisable to make a sleeve for the FJ axle shaft to pass through and thus deal with the issue of a larger axle hole in the wheels?  I will check soon to see if maybe one of the R1 axles have have may be cut if the inside diameter would work for the FJ axle.  Hmmmm.....must be a sign I need to sleep rather think of mods....possibly change the bearings to match both the wheel hub and FJ axle and not have to make a sleeve?  Dust caps then may be an issue....

[yamaha fj rider]

One thing I have not seen addressed in this thread is chain alignment. Most wheel swaps require the machining of the rear sprocket carrier and some require an off set front sprocket or both. Did not want you to get all done then find this out. Hope this helps.

Kurt   

[Persistant]

One thing I have not seen addressed in this thread is chain alignment. Most wheel swaps require the machining of the rear sprocket carrier and some require an off set front sprocket or both. Did not want you to get all done then find this out. Hope this helps.

Kurt   

Those thoughts have crossed my mind...I've looked up the chain with it partially on as the GSF sprocket (45T) won't allow the chain to sit on it, but so far it looks ok.  What's the best way to check alignment?

[Pat Conlon]

On the R-1 front rim, after you solve for the axle and spacers, remember to factor in what to do about the loss of the mechanical speedo drive you need for your FJ's speedo. R-1 uses a electric speedometer.

When you get the Bandit rear rim swap finished, could you take some pictures for us? And do a write up on the swap? I would like to post it over in the Modification Files section for others to reference.
All options on the 17" rear rim conversions are welcome.

Yes, you do have the bug...bwhaaaahaaahaaa the virus is spreading!  Cheers.

[movenon]

One thing I have not seen addressed in this thread is chain alignment. Most wheel swaps require the machining of the rear sprocket carrier and some require an off set front sprocket or both. Did not want you to get all done then find this out. Hope this helps.

Kurt   

Those thoughts have crossed my mind...I've looked up the chain with it partially on as the GSF sprocket (45T) won't allow the chain to sit on it, but so far it looks OK.  What's the best way to check alignment?

Motion Pro makes a chain alignment tool for about 15 bucks. It works pretty good. Cycle Gear usually stocks it. You Tube has a video on using it. On my GSXR conversion I flipped the JT 38T rear sprocket and installed a 18t Honda VF 1000 front sprocket (same splines and chain size as the FJ). The Honda has a boss that sets it out a little.
First thing you will need to do is align the rear wheel with the front wheel, then check your chain alignment. At least that's how I approached it. I am just a guy in the garage.....
George

[fj1289]

On the R-1 front rim, after you solve for the axle and spacers, remember to factor in what to do about the loss of the mechanical speedo drive you need for your FJ's speedo. R-1 uses a electric speedometer.

Yes, you do have the bug...bwhaaaahaaahaaa the virus is spreading!  Cheers.

Easiest solution is a ThunderAce front rim - only rim I found that combines mechanical speedo drive with the R1 style brake rotors.  The left R1 fork lower has a wide boss as part of the casting - almost like a built in wheel spacer.  Mill off most of the boss and the mechanical drive fits nicely,  Use the ThunderAce speedo drive - theres not much metal left if you bore the FJ speedo drive to fit the R1 or ThunderAce axle. The drawback -- ThunderAce was a one year wonder in the US (a stop gap between the FZR1000 and R1) and can be hard to find.

Do not try to resist moditis!

[Persistant]

Speaking of shocks...I have searched but have not seen anything lately in relation to a ETA on the RPM shock?  I understand Randy is recovering from his own modification and am guessing release of the shock will depend on his recovery time?  I thought I would ask as my stock shock is needing replacement and now seems to be the time to do it.  Speedy recovery Randy!