Front Brake Switch

[keand3]

With the key on....When you unplug the 2 wires from the front brake master cylinder (m/c) and touch them together
Does the rear brake light come on? (Not the running lights, they should come on when you turn the key)
Yes or No.
If yes, then the problem is with the switch...if no, then the problem is elsewhere.

If no (as I do have with my R1 m/c at the moment) is there any known common issue causing this that I should check first, before I start my investigation on the matter?

It did work fine with stock m/c before I removed bits and pieces on the bike, never disconnected any electrical except battery, blinkers and fuel.

Cheers
Ken

[keand3]

Update:

Haven't been able to look at the bike yet, but have looked at the wiring diagram for my bike.
The front brake switch is fairly easy, connected with only two wires. It shares a cable with the horn and speedometer, and both of them are in working order. I did how ever replaced the horn a month ago, but since it's functional properly i woulden't think that that's the cause of the problem.

The only thing left would be to check the second wire from the front switch. On the diagram its marked as a green cable with yellow dots, and it should only have two connection points. One being on the switch, and the other onto the rear brake switch line. Both rear and front are sharing the brown cable I'm guessing is earth...

So, the issue should then be located along the green line somewere since all other component shard by the other cable is working.
Will keep you posted.

Cheers
Ken

[Pat Conlon]

Hey Ken, start with the basics.
Is the fuse ok?
With the key on, do you have running lights?
Do you have a brake light when you activate the back brake? If so rule out the bulbs and sockets.
Then, on the 2 wires to the front brake switch, one wire should have 12v power (key on)
If yes, then you have power to the brake switch and the problem resides downstream of the switch. The wire that goes from the switch to the rear lights. (assuming that you checked the switch as discussed earlier)
If no, then you have a problem upstream of the switch, the power feed to the switch circuit.
A multi tester set on dc will give you the voltage readings and set on ohms with testing from point to point will tell you where the interruption is located. Or a simple continuity light and test light will do the same.

Check your connectors, then check again. Let us know what you find.

Cheers

[keand3]

Hey Ken, start with the basics.
Is the fuse ok? Yes they are
With the key on, do you have running lights? Yes
Do you have a brake light when you activate the back brake? If so rule out the bulbs and sockets.Yes I do
Then, on the 2 wires to the front brake switch, one wire should have 12v power (key on) I do have power, but not 12v, I measured it to 8,5v..
If yes, then you have power to the brake switch and the problem resides downstream of the switch. The wire that goes from the switch to the brake rear lights. This is were I think my problem is located, somewere...
If no, then you have a problem upstream of the switch, the power feed to the switch circuit. This might be possible since I only measured 8,5v

This I will try out to morrow, kids,work,house and family tends to take a lot more time when something is wrong on the bike 
A multi tester set on dc will give you the voltage readings and set on ohms with testing from point to point will tell you where the interruption is located. Or a simple continuity light and test light will do the same.

Check your connectors, then check again. Let us know what you find.  Cheers Pat

Hi Pat.
Thanks for that usefull information.
Yes I did check the easy parts first since that's all I had time for today.
I did as mention above find some voltage issue on the 12v line in to the connector. Haven't looked at were the line starts, but guessing somewere after the battery. Battery is good, so maybe after fusebox..?

Cheers
Ken

[Pat Conlon]

No, not the fuse box. The fuse box is upstream of your switch. Your problem is interruption between the switch and rear light, although the fuse box may be involved in your low voltage readings at the switch.
See why we do the headlight relay mod and coil relay mod? It's those low voltage readings we get.
Keep at it...you'll find it and it's very probably a simple fix....the trick is finding it.

Cheers.

[keand3]

See why we do the headlight relay mod and coil relay mod? It's those low voltage readings we get.

Ohh no!!! The virus strikes again! Can't... resist.... moditus.... Ahhh damn it...  

I will search for these mods on the forum and read a bit up on them.
But please do explain theme in some extent if you will or point me in the right direction. The forum search turns up alot of different subject, but I've yet to find a specific Relay mod thread.

Thanks Pat.
I will try to look into it more thoroughly tomorrow if the time allows me too.
Will keep you posted.

Cheers
Ken

[keand3]

Nevermind Pat, I found all the threads i needed to read up on the two mods 

But, if i do the HID conversion, there would be no need for the headlight relay mod, right? Or?
The coil mod, would it affect the HID conversion?

Cheers
Ken

[Pat Conlon]

I don't know about HID needing the headlight relay mod. Others can chime in. I have heard that it helps although I don't have a HID headlight.
I do know the headlight relay mod *dramatically increases* the brightness of the non HID headlight. I recall the voltage readings to my headlight was ~10 volts with the current running through my stock wiring harness. With a dedicated home run circuit (i.e.from relay directly to battery) on the headlight relay I get 12-14 volts. A Night and day difference.

The coil relay mod does the same thing for the coils. More energy (i.e.voltage) to the coils means a hotter spark. Faster starting, etc, etc.
  Both the headlight relay and coil relay are independent of each other but they *may* share the same dedicated home run power lead attached to the battery.
If you do choose to share a common home run between the coil relay and headlight relay, I suggest a separate fuse on the headlight relay power lead. That way if you blow a headlight fuse you will still have power to your coils.
Your bike tends to stop rather quickly when the coils loose power.

Clear as mud?

[FJmonkey]

The DDM HID kit wires direct to the battery, no relay required. The OEM plug is used to get the low/hi and on signal from the bike. The kit does the rest of the work. It also allows me to switch back (without tools) to a standard bulb if the HID bulb or system fails.

[keand3]

Pat, clear as mud Thanks.

Mr. Monkey, i did indeed look at DDM HID kit, but unfortunately they don't ship to Norway,  so i have to figure a way around that.
Have seen other kits on eBay at similar price range but DDM seems to be the better choice for me...

[keand3]

Well, then     DDM Motorcycle HID Kit, 55W, H4 High / Low, 6000K is ordered...

Shipping might be a bitch, but it will get here.... hopefully 

Now, the my attention is turned to the coil relay mod. See people buy their relays at radioshack... Does it have to be a specific relay, or will any suffice?


Cheers
Ken

[oldktmdude]

Well, then     DDM Motorcycle HID Kit, 55W, H4 High / Low, 6000K is ordered...

Shipping might be a bitch, but it will get here.... hopefully 

Now, the my attention is turned to the coil relay mod. See people buy their relays at radioshack... Does it have to be a specific relay, or will any suffice?


Cheers
Ken

Ken, I'm using a 30amp Hella relay with good results. It's the type that is commonly used to wire up driving lights and other auto accessories.  Regards, Pete.

[keand3]

Thanks Pete, i will look into that relay.

Pat, have checked every wire and they are all conected. Ohm was great from switch to tail.
Looks to be power related, will do some more searching..

Ken

[keand3]

Question.
I was looking at several lines and connectors on my bike when i accedently manage to rip out the two wires from the petcock.
After that the bike went all dead..
Can this two cables do that? there is no end of the cables sticking out of the petcock to reattached too.
Anyone been at this problem before?

[keand3]

I am sorry if i am bombing this thread with posts, but I feel it's important to keep my progress updated for you guys if I am to get any help  

So regarding my last post on my bike turning dead and no power, I do think that stripping of those cables from the petcock at the same time the bike went dead were just a coincidence. The battery went out of juice after all testing on and off etc..  But, I can't really meassure it until tomorrow because my  multi tester went dead too... Did change the battery but no, screen all messed up Have to buy a new one, but now all stores are closed... Phaaa... Just one of those days i guess.

But this is my findings so far (while the multimeter worked)

The line from the switch to the taillight is in order according to the ohm measurements on several points along the line... All though previous owner has done a fairly poor job replacing the mid section of the original green and yellow cable, by inserting extension from a few cm behind the handlebar switch connector to the first big connector on the harness. But still the ohm turned out great.  

I have not yet measured the power feed to the switch to see if there is any voltage all the way, because my meter died..
Might it bee some earth issue on the line causing the trouble?

Cheers
Ken