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Pssst. Don't tell anyone I asked, coz I feel like should know already!!

Started by nurse, March 24, 2013, 04:34:32 AM

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baldy3853

ONLY EVER CHECK THEN WHEN THE MOTOR IS COLD!!!!! When checking let the motor cool down over at least a 24hr period and don't wipe the oil away in doing that you will get a more accurate reading

NJona86FJ

Cheers Arnie... :good2: I didn't think of that... valve faces wearing down...  :wacko2: i spose i REALLY should open my old girl up and have a look.... she s getting a bit rattly and soft.... oil consumption has gone up a bit too....  :bye2:
Some people's idea of free speech is that they are free to say what they like,but if anyone says anything back that is an outrage.
W. Churchill

Arnie

25mm shims are used in some models of Yamaha, Honda, and Toyota vehicles.  So, if your Yamaha d(st)ealer is unhelpful, try the Honda or Toyota dealer down the road for your replacement shims.

Arnie

Harvy

I found this somewhere........ all use 25mm shims:

Honda
CB750, CB750C, CB750F, CB750K, CB750SC dohc (79-83)
CB900C, CB900F, CB1000C, CB1100F, CBX (all)

Triumph
Hinckly triples and fours
Speed Triple, Tiger, Daytona, Trophy, Sprint

* All watercooled three and four cyl. models*

Yamaha
SRX250T (87) SRX250TC (87), XT250L & XT250LC Dual (84)
TT350, XT350 (86-00)
XJ600 Seca II (92-98)
XVZ12 XVZ13 Venture Royale Royal Star (83-93) XVZ1200, XVZ12
VMX1200 V-Max (85-02) Vmax, VMX12
FJ1100, FJ1200 (84-93)


Harvy
FJZ1 1200 - It'll do me just fine.
Timing has much to do with the success of a rain dance.

NJona86FJ

geez wish i could "find" things like that harvey!!! i had an srx 250... never knew it was shim.....but then again didnt have it long enough to work on it!!! bastard theiving ....... and they set fire to it!!!!
Some people's idea of free speech is that they are free to say what they like,but if anyone says anything back that is an outrage.
W. Churchill

fj11.5

if you need more incentive chech my pics for the fj head,  with very bad valves, , never ever ever checked from new, and i was at least the third owner
unless you ride bikes, I mean really ride bikes, then you just won't get it

84 Fj1100  effie , with mods
( 88 ) Fj 1200  fairly standard , + blue spots
84 Fj1100 absolutely stock standard, now more stock , fitted with Fj12 twin system , no rusted headers for this felicity jayne

Jim 92FJ

Really? Only 4500 miles on it? Where on earth did you find such a specimen? My new '92 FJ acquisition has about 8200 miles.  I'd bet that it runs like butta...  Whether the bike needs shims or not, one thing is for certain, we have many many great miles to be had. 

Good luck!

Windmill

Quote from: Arnie on March 24, 2013, 08:05:03 AM
Neil said, "your shims are small metal discs of a set thickness , running under your cam lobe governing how far? your valves will open.... as they have the cam lobe running onto them they will reduce in thickness(over time)  not allowing your valves to open as far"

Actually, the shims are very hard and will wear only very, very slowly.  What changes most in these engines is the valve seat which will get pounded thinner as the valve face hammers into it with each revolution.  This eventually will take up all the free play (lash) in the setup and you'll start to burn the valve face (as has already been explained).

Arnie

Well chaps, well described by you all but..... :flag_of_truce: two schools of thought here, one that seats compress/wear - closing clearance over time and other shims/cam wears - increasing clearances.

In my experience of OHC engines in general, shims were held under cam followers, hence any wear spread to contact area between cam & follower. In these cases, I was always reshimming to decrease clearances so they were increasing over time.  However these were probably poorer quality engineering so cam/follower wear may have been more significant than in an FJ engine.

Checked my clearances today and on all cams -clearances were at maximum allowable. Now I'm aware mine has not been checked for some time and previous owner advised me it was well overdue. SO, if clearances will reduce with seat wear, I'm fine? :unknown: On the other hand if wear will increase them, I need to shim them down :wacko3:

Don't feel inclined to shim them down if seats will wear and close gaps further, my head hurts.....Don't want to stir this but would really like to know which it is, both statements could so easily be correct. Any further thoughts anyone please?  :scratch_one-s_head:

Pat Conlon

Kinda like my comment on chain tightening....loose valves are happy valves (to a point) Yes,  you may lose a smige power in that the valves don't open as far (doubtful you would notice on a street bike)..however, Tight valves cause expensive problems.
Wear on the Valve shim from the rotating cam lobe is miminal due to the fact that the round shims rotate in the bucket distributing the cam lobe wear over a large surface of the shim along with being bathed in oil.

Valve seats recede as the miles roll by. Just a fact of life. Valves live in a tough environment.

If your valves are on the loose end of the specification, leave them alone, they *will* tighten up as the seat wears.
1) Free Owners Manual download: https://tinyurl.com/fmsz7hk9
2) Don't store your FJ with E10 fuel https://tinyurl.com/3cjrfct5
3) Replace your old stock rubber brake lines.
4) Important items for the '84-87 FJ's:
Safety wire: https://tinyurl.com/99zp8ufh
Fuel line: https://tinyurl.com/bdff9bf3

Windmill

Thanks Pat, ok I'll leave well alone, put them down to check again in 5,000 and see if there is any clear effect.  

If I am suffering a performance loss? it's the quickest road bike I've ever had (even in my Production racer days), so it can't be much :i_am_so_happy:  Just a thought though, no-one has mentioned valve stretch.......but that's another can of worms :bye2:

Steve_in_Florida


Well, that's why the shim kit contains an *ASSORTMENT* of shims in different thicknesses, so you can insert the one appropriate to the wear you're experiencing, and still be within the prescribed factory tolerance.

Ask anyone in the Volkswagen (Air-Cooled) community: "Tight Valves become BURNED VALVES"

Too little clearance between the cam and the shim means the the valve is OPEN during the power stroke. Open valves cannot get rid of their excess heat, and become scorched and cracked on the edges. The cracks become fissures, and the fissures become canyons.

Here's a link that's worth 1,000 words:

     https://www.google.com/search?q=burned+valve&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a&channel=fflb&um=1&ie=UTF-8&hl=en&tbm=isch&source=og&sa=N&tab=wi&ei=p3NTUe_OIpOw8ATxh4DACw&biw=1440&bih=731&sei=rHNTUaCvGJT69gTO8oCACw

Keep an eye on your valve shim requirements over time. That should answer any question you might have.

Also, you can check the stamped thickness of the old valve shim with a micrometer, and verify whether or not the shim itself is wearing.

(popcorn) (popcorn) (popcorn)
`90 FJ-1200
`92 FJ-1200

IBA # 54823

NJona86FJ

 :good2:  this is gold.  i suppose in overview ... I LEARNT a lot... its a case of which wears first, but please lets not do a hardness comparison test on the materials.... lol... all good info (popcorn)

Is it just me or when you dont play with things mechanical for a while your head goes fuzzy?.... you know brainfade an all that.... must be the blonde
lol
Some people's idea of free speech is that they are free to say what they like,but if anyone says anything back that is an outrage.
W. Churchill

ribbert

Quote from: Windmill on March 27, 2013, 04:16:15 PM


Well chaps, well described by you all but..... :flag_of_truce: two schools of thought here,
Don't want to stir this but would really like to know which it is, both statements could so easily be correct.

There aren't two schools of thought here. This is not a speculative theory in which there are two camps (like oil, tyres, octane ratings etc). Several thousand FJ owners, some for decades and 100's of 1000's of km's will tell you they tighten up with use for the reasons previously explained. Other engines and other configurations do other things.
Noel
"Tell a wise man something he doesn't know and he'll thank you, tell a fool something he doesn't know and he'll abuse you"

RichBaker

Quote from: Windmill on March 27, 2013, 04:16:15 PM
Quote from: Arnie on March 24, 2013, 08:05:03 AM
Neil said, "your shims are small metal discs of a set thickness , running under your cam lobe governing how far? your valves will open.... as they have the cam lobe running onto them they will reduce in thickness(over time)  not allowing your valves to open as far"

Actually, the shims are very hard and will wear only very, very slowly.  What changes most in these engines is the valve seat which will get pounded thinner as the valve face hammers into it with each revolution.  This eventually will take up all the free play (lash) in the setup and you'll start to burn the valve face (as has already been explained).

Arnie

Well chaps, well described by you all but..... :flag_of_truce: two schools of thought here, one that seats compress/wear - closing clearance over time and other shims/cam wears - increasing clearances.

In my experience of OHC engines in general, shims were held under cam followers, hence any wear spread to contact area between cam & follower. In these cases, I was always reshimming to decrease clearances so they were increasing over time.  However these were probably poorer quality engineering so cam/follower wear may have been more significant than in an FJ engine.

Checked my clearances today and on all cams -clearances were at maximum allowable. Now I'm aware mine has not been checked for some time and previous owner advised me it was well overdue. SO, if clearances will reduce with seat wear, I'm fine? :unknown: On the other hand if wear will increase them, I need to shim them down :wacko3:

Don't feel inclined to shim them down if seats will wear and close gaps further, my head hurts.....Don't want to stir this but would really like to know which it is, both statements could so easily be correct. Any further thoughts anyone please?  :scratch_one-s_head:

This is a good explanation of Valve Seat Recession, which is what causes the valve clearances to get tighter over miles....
Remember, a tappy valve is a happy valve.   :i_am_so_happy:
Rich Baker - NRA Life, AZCDL, Trail Riders of S. AZ. , AMA Life, BRC, HEAT Dirt Riders, SAMA....
Tennessee Squire
90 FJ1200, 03 WR450F ;8^P

Windmill

Quote from: NJona86FJ on March 27, 2013, 05:50:22 PM
Is it just me or when you dont play with things mechanical for a while your head goes fuzzy?.... you know brainfade an all that.... must be the blonde
lol


Don't worry Mate I've got it too, only it's not the blonde................it's the Gray :cray: