factory pro shift kit

[fj11.5]

Hi, about to attempt the shift spring mod, any easy way to re,fit the new ARM and spring 

[racerman_27410]

i would just sell the kit and call it good. IMO it doesnt really help the FJ any and makes shifting harder.

If you really want to smooth out your shifting try using a good motorcycle specific synthetic oil... thats a difference you can feel every shift.


Just my opinion of course. 

KOokaloo!


Frank

[fj11.5]

No worries mate, all back together, works better in the shed, , will try her out when I get oil, , may do cooler mod ,, if kit dousnt work or spring is too firm, ill buy a softer rate one from randy

[fj11.5]

Factory pro , are pretty close with the two hour limit to do the work, 2.5 hours to do the work,, that's drain oil, strip the clutch , take all needed covers off , re,fit new parts, and fit everything back together, , probably do able in 2 hours if I had taken all the clutch apart before,, also fitted second clutch spring

[JMR]

 I have had that in my bike for years....it works great. Undercutting makes it even better. The Factory piece for the Hayabusa positively sucks....that I know from experience.

[fj11.5]

Would love undercut gears, maybe one day  ,, will test her out soon, should be a whole lot better ,, just a note , any body attempting the shift mod, place plastic or a rag under the spring area, or lose parts into the engine

[RichBaker]

Factory pro , are pretty close with the two hour limit to do the work, 2.5 hours to do the work,, that's drain oil, strip the clutch , take all needed covers off , re,fit new parts, and fit everything back together, , probably do able in 2 hours if I had taken all the clutch apart before,, also fitted second clutch spring

Leave her on the sidestand and you don't have to drain the oil.....   

[Alf]

After 15.000 kms. since I fitted the kit last June I´m tempted about refitting the OE spring with the Factory arm, because the lever continues a bit hard

[fj11.5]

After 15.000 kms. since I fitted the kit last June I´m tempted about refitting the OE spring with the Factory arm, because the lever continues a bit hard.,, hey Alf., remembered you said about that once before, if mine turns out to be the same , ill buy a softer spring from rpm

[fj11.5]

Factory pro , are pretty close with the two hour limit to do the work, 2.5 hours to do the work,, that's drain oil, strip the clutch , take all needed covers off , re,fit new parts, and fit everything back together, , probably do able in 2 hours if I had taken all the clutch apart before,, also fitted second clutch spring

Leave her on the sidestand and you don't have to drain the oil.....   

, , would of done, but she was due for fresh oil and a filter ,

[Alf]

After 15.000 kms. since I fitted the kit last June I´m tempted about refitting the OE spring with the Factory arm, because the lever continues a bit hard.,, hey Alf., remembered you said about that once before, if mine turns out to be the same , ill buy a softer spring from rpm

But the work is not 2 hours. More like 4 if you do the work with love and attention (ladys always like these details, and my FJ is a very sensible one)   
And now I´m in a complete revamp of my CBX, so it has to wait... and I´m lazy too, because when the bike gets temperature, the shift works fantastic

[fj11.5]

I worked slow and carefully, 

After 15.000 kms. since I fitted the kit last June I´m tempted about refitting the OE spring with the Factory arm, because the lever continues a bit hard.,, hey Alf., remembered you said about that once before, if mine turns out to be the same , ill buy a softer spring from rpm

But the work is not 2 hours. More like 4 if you do the work with love and attention (ladys always like these details, and my FJ is a very sensible one)   
And now I´m in a complete revamp of my CBX, so it has to wait... and I´m lazy too, because when the bike gets temperature, the shift works fantastic

i worked slow and carefully, completed the lot in 2.5 hours, including a tea break, only thing i didnt do is fill her with fresh oil, as yet,

[SlowOldGuy]

So, can you tell any difference between the new and old spring?

I didn't notice any difference when I installed the FP spring on my '85.  I very much prefer the easier shifting of my '93.

DavidR.

[racerrad8]

So, can you tell any difference between the new and old spring?

DavidR.

Okay, so I made a rig up to check pressures on the springs when I was trying to find the spring for my new roller bearing shift kit. I used my valve spring tester with a lightweight digital scale to read the rating. All springs were compressed the same distance to obtain the readings.

Stock - 4-6 lbs (these were all used springs I tested)
FP - 8-12lbs

New RPM spring that will be included with the new roller shift lever - 8lbs

I found the FP springs were slightly different in design as well. They extended the static arm of the spring which allows the arm to flex more than the stock spring which is what I believe is the inconsistency of the spring. So, based on the results of David & Alf, I would say David got a 8lbs spring and Alf a 12lbs.

One thing that you will experience on the shifting lever force required with the old style pin & roller style will be the added resistance of the roller. With the new ball bearing lever, the resistance is greatly reduced.

The key to this spring tension is how the transmission shifts. The internal shift lever is what actually shifts the transmission. The lever we move with our foot rotates the shift barrel to the peak of the shift barrel but the internal lever completes the shift. The spring pressure and lever resistance cause the shift barrel to rotate to a valley of the barrel completing the shift sequence. The stiffer the spring the harder it is to rotate the shift barrel, but that cause the shift barrel to rotate quicker. The soft O.E. spring did not allow the shift barrel to rotate quick enough and was the result of a lot of the jumping out of gear issues, but the foot shifter is light.

The spring I have covers both concerns. It adds a slight feel to the foot lever and also adds to the internal lever pressure. But the added pressure internally is aided by the new style roller lever that has minimum friction resistance.

Randy - RPM

[racerman_27410]

One thing to note here is if your FJ already has the jumping out of 2nd gear issue (worn dogs/windows/bent shift fork) then this shift kit will not fix it.



Kookaloo!


Frank