HELP ME GET IT RUNNING RIGHT PLEASE!

[racerrad8]

it was on the right side of the engine, very bottom and when i pulled it all the oil came out with it, it kinda smelled like it had gas in the oil as well it was very thin oil. the cover i was repairing is on the left. oh and what is the points looking things?(ya know under the cover i was repairing) the buddy that was helping me with the carbs said they were electronic points???

That is not the oil drain plug but an oil galley plug. The oil drain plug is located at the bottom of the engine in the oil pan, almost centered and towards the front.

That is the electronic ignition pick-up coil under the cover your repaired.

Randy - RPM

[minitruckeratheart]

oh... well i bought the wrong plug....lol poo... well then. hummm.... i guess jb weld is gonna have to work then!lol well the skies cleared up for a few and i got the carbs pulled off and mostly apart. i fear pulling them off the rack. but needless to say they looked mostly clean still but the ports that were nasty before are gunked up again. were soaking everything now. ill post some pics and some more questions.

1st Q how can i tell if these gaskets are bad



2nd Q can you see the melted peaces in these pics? in between the carbs? what are they? where should they be connected to? one is compleatly gone, the other is just melted real bad. where do i get replacements? Do you have them randy?



3rd Q 2 parter the small screws on top of the carbs are the idle mixture screws correct? if so how many turns is a good starting place? and the larger screws that there are only three of between the carbs, are they the sync screws? i should run them down and back them off to 2.5 to start with right? every setting has been played with on this carb, nothing is set where it should be.


4th Q these jets, all say 11.5 but one is different, different color, different size, well the head larger but smaller washer but they are overall the same they look like. is that gonna make a big difference? should i order new jets?



and some random pics of the nasty carbs, altho every thing looked pretty clean and clear. but here

i think this is where the needles sit that control the float. all of them had gunk in them again. i think something is in the tank... wouldnt surprise me since it has no gas lid! ill have to clean the tank out and put a filter between the tank and carb. shouldnt it have one anyways?
anyways pics of nasty carbs with over spray from a dumb PO




hopefully the gas and carb cleaner will strip some of that paint off and i can just wipe every thing down and clean it up... thanks for the help so far guys most of the rubbers seem to be fine so i hope a good cleaning and reassembly and the proper tuning will get this thing running right.

[Arnie]

jscgdunn just posted the link to a wonderful Mikuni Carb rebuild document.  This should answer all your carb related questions even though the carbs are slightly different than the BS36's used on the FJ.

  http://www.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage/gs/Mikuni_BS-CV_Carburetor_Rebuild_Tutorial.pdf

You should also get the allen screw and O-ring kit from Randy.  It will save you $$ and LOTS of frustration.

BTW  was this bike burnt before?

Arnie

[minitruckeratheart]

so got the carbs back together. i got a filter between the tank and the carbs now so i shouldnt have the problem of nasty carbs again. i think i have a vacuum line not hooked up. can anyone tell me where these lines go? and why there are two lines and the other two are plugged?


any ideas guys? i got my tail lights bobbed, they look much better. now tomorrow ill work on the front and hiding all the wiring. anyone got any idea how to hook a set of fog lights up as headlights?

[minitruckeratheart]

BTW  was this bike burnt before?

Arnie

I dont know but it really looks that way. it wouldnt surprise me... its running better but still poor throttle response and comming down from rev slowly but better over all then when i brought it home. the carbs werent that bad. all the o rings seemed to be in alright shape. same with the jets and diaframs. but i really think its vacuum related now. i read somewhere on here if the vacuum lines were goofed then it would run like crap. still poppin. but idles way better.

[FJmonkey]

The melted fittings are the vent lines. Melted is a red flag, need some serious heat to melt that. If they were already missing the rubber tubing then less heat. But heat to melt them.... Abuse. 

[Flying Scotsman]

Not sure if this is what you wanted.Pulse line off #1 goes to petcock in the gas tank pulse line off #2 goes to the ignition box.

[rktmanfj]

BTW  was this bike burnt before?

Arnie

I dont know but it really looks that way. it wouldnt surprise me... its running better but still poor throttle response and comming down from rev slowly but better over all then when i brought it home. the carbs werent that bad. all the o rings seemed to be in alright shape. same with the jets and diaframs. but i really think its vacuum related now. i read somewhere on here if the vacuum lines were goofed then it would run like crap. still poppin. but idles way better.

I think you also mentioned that you added a fuel filter.

IIRC, that can cause problems with non-fuel pump FJs.

[minitruckeratheart]

ok so if the pulse lines arnt hooked up will it cause it to not run right? and the tank looks like it has a fuel pump... why else would there be wires coming from the petcock? but yeah i put a fuel filter inline. but it seems to be having the same problems as before just getting a little better... im about stumped. my buddy says new plugs and wires.

[rktmanfj]

ok so if the pulse lines arnt hooked up will it cause it to not run right? and the tank looks like it has a fuel pump... why else would there be wires coming from the petcock? but yeah i put a fuel filter inline. but it seems to be having the same problems as before just getting a little better... im about stumped. my buddy says new plugs and wires.

Wires coming from the petcock are for the electronically 'simulated reserve'.

If you don't have enough fuel in it, and the switch is not on reserve, that would cause it to act like it's out of gas.

Unless it's been added, early models didn't have fuel pumps.

Many filters are too restrictive for gravity feed.

[racerman_27410]

the bike will never run right if the carbs are not synchronized properly.... you cant just set the balancing screws without some type of manometer.... either home made or store bought but you cannot skip this step!.



KOokaloo!

[minitruckeratheart]

thanks guys! i under stand it wont run right without a manometer, but it should run better than it does. ill try and remove the filter tomorrow and see if it makes a difference. oh also i moved these Qs to the right section of the forum. There are so many areas... geeze...lol sorry ill get used to this place soon. im sure ill be here a lot. this bike needs lots of attention.

[Flying Scotsman]

ok so if the pulse lines arnt hooked up will it cause it to not run right? and the tank looks like it has a fuel pump... why else would there be wires coming from the petcock? but yeah i put a fuel filter inline. but it seems to be having the same problems as before just getting a little better... im about stumped. my buddy says new plugs and wires.

1985 should not have pump or inline filter.Or wires from petcock.Regardless if the pulse lines arn't hooked up it will run like crap.1985 should have ignition box on the side of the battery box,Left side of your bike.If it has the right box it will have a curved vacume fitting coming out of the front end of it.It runs to the #2 pulse fiting on the carb intake boot.Your other pulse line on #2 carb intake boot connects to the fuel petcock.You have wires coming from your petcock so its not like mine if it has wires it most likely is for a fuel pump and I think that had some thing up under the fairing by the headlight it connected to.I would need to go look some boost control or something.If you cap it you should be fine as long as you have a fuel pump.