HELP ME GET IT RUNNING RIGHT PLEASE!

[minitruckeratheart]

Ok new member here, already started a thread in the intro section, but figured with the Qs i was asking and help i need it should be time to move the Qs to thisSo  section.

So Q #1 cheap points seal/gasket whatever it is, not the one for the cover which i need a new gasket for it as well and cover since its broke but ill proly try n jb weld it and just paint it since it seems to just keep water out. oh and i may need the screws for the cover as well, PO thought that a phillips head is a phillips head and a #1 will work in place of a #2.... so their pretty stripped out. i got them, but i would like new ones.

Q#2 why is the engine taking so long to return to idle after giving it throttle? i only cleaned the jets and lower end of the carbs earlyer, tried to sync the carbs by setting them to 1.5 turns each, got it running and idling and no longer needing starting fluid and holding on the throttle to start. but it still backfires no flames now but still popping and when riding it roars pops roars some more then maybe pops again or maybe not but its deff running better then when i brought it home yester day. oh the throttle cable is returning crisp so i know its not the cable.

[zz28zz]

Sounds like the carbs need a complete disassembly and cleaning.

I bought a 1 gallon can of Berrymans carb dip. It comes with a basket. You disassemble the carbs (one at a time) and put everything in the basket and drop it into the dip for at least 30 mins or so. Just don't put the floats or any rubber/plastic parts in the dip.

After the dip, clean them off with water. Dry them and using a can of carb cleaner with plastic tube, spray cleaner thru all the holes. There are pics on the internet that show where all the holes go to. Make sure all passages are clear.

Don't forget to remove the emulsion tubes and clean out all the little holes. Same for the pilot jets.

The slides I just clean with carb cleaner (don't dip them). They have to be clean and smooth or they can stick, which will cause the eng to not go back to idle.

Then, set the float levels and put everything back together. You also need to make sure there's no vacuum leaks where the intake boots meet the head. There's an o-ring in there that shrinks over time and can cause a vacuum leak.

You can blow air (with your mouth)  into the oval port on the air cleaner side of carbs and make the slides go up and down to verify they aren't sticking.

As for syncing the carbs, you need a set of monometers (or vacuum gauges). The adjustment screws are extremely sensitive. Just the weight of the screwdriver on the adj screws makes a difference. The screws you mentioned turning 1.5 turns were probably the idle mixture screws (on top of carb near intake boot).
The sync screws are within the linkages that connects one carb to another.

If you haven't taken these type of carbs apart before, look for some drawings that break-down what all is in the carbs and where all the internal passages connect to. There's a few very small o-rings, washers and whatnot that you don't wanna loose or reinstall incorrectly. I studied the drawings for a couple of nights before tearing mine down. It helped a lot..

[racerman_27410]

posted in the other thread too......

First thing is you need to figure out which screws are the mixture screws and which screws are the balancing screws.

this is very important.

the mixture screws are on the engine side of the actual carbs.... each one right in the center where the carb body meets the rubber carb joint.

the synchronizing screws are on the actual carb linkages between the carb bodies.


if your carbs are clean and properly synch'd with the engine running smoothly in all speed ranges then a hanging idle is caused by too lean setting on the mixture screws.....when its too rich it will drop below your set idle then recover..... when its just right the idle will settle right to the perfect spot when doing a throttle blip test.

if you are running pod filters and 4/1 exhaust you are gonna want to start about 2 turns out on the mixture screws (from lightly seated)

if adjusting the mixture screws doesnt have any effect then the rubber o rings under the mixture screws may have perished and will need replacing.

first thing though is to get the carbs spotlessly clean and properly synchronized.

Kookaloo!

[minitruckeratheart]

ok so tuesday the buddy that helped pull the bottom apart is gonna help me tear into the carbs again and were gonna fully pull them apart check o rings and everything. gonna get some carb soak and soak them over night and hit them with some q tips. since i cant ride it again til the oil plug is in, i pulled the front fairing off and i think it looks pretty good all stripped down. i think ill just find some cheap hid fog lights and wire them up for head lights. cheap tac off ebay and a universal speedo. could proly do all that for less then 100 bucks. some krylon rattle can and i think it could be pretty slick.

[racerrad8]

ok so tuesday the buddy that helped pull the bottom apart is gonna help me tear into the carbs again and were gonna fully pull them apart check o rings and everything.

You should get the S/S carb screw & o-ring kit. It has all of the replacement o-rings and stainless steel allen head screws for the carbs as well as intake manifold o-rings.

After you strip several of the soft screws, or try and find metric o-rings locally you will be glad you did.

Randy - RPM

[minitruckeratheart]

yeah i when i was playing with the idle mixture screws, the ones on top of the carbs toward the jugs, i noticed there was some fuel seepage comming out of them. i would imagine the seals are shot. i have a buddy that owns a hydro shop so im sure i can get the o rings for the screws for cheap if not free if he has a bunch laying around. if not ill proly be ordering them. geeze i was trying not to spend money on this thing right now... but after playing with it... i want it running right...

[minitruckeratheart]

hey randy, you wouldnt happen to sell gas tank lids and just not have them on the site as well would you (fingers crossed please say yes)

[SlowOldGuy]

If you're doing carb work of any kind, get the carb kit from Randy.

I forgot whether it includes the Intake O-rings.  If it doesn't then get them also.  Your high idle problem may be caused by air leaking into the intakes.  Replacing the intake o-rings is probably way overdue.

Good luck on the gas cap.  They've been obsolete for over 10 years and are a rare find when they show up.

DavidR.

[racerrad8]

hey randy, you wouldnt happen to sell gas tank lids and just not have them on the site as well would you (fingers crossed please say yes)

Nope, they have been discontinued for many years as mentioned by David.

Randy - RPM

[fj11.5]

I've sold or given away my last few 84- fuel caps , , will see if I have another , can't promise anything, , well unless I paint a later tank for the 84  ,, but I've done that with effie 

[minitruckeratheart]

ok so some free updates for the day, free as in it cost me nothing but some time because i already had the jb weld and q tips. lol
first the oil plug with the welds over the hole.


and if i woulda thought about it i would have taken pics to show the chunk that was missing first but i didnt so here it is filled in with cold weld and a duct tape backing to keep it flush on the inside.


now once its try ill proly get some sand paper on it to smooth it  down to flush on both sides but the tape helped for the most part.
and the plug jb welded up, well for now i have a new plug in the mail but want to work on the carbs between now and then so jb weld will have to hold for now.

and a dab on the inside hole to be extra sure.

well thats it for today, tomorrow pull the carbs off again and see how bad they really are...

[minitruckeratheart]

I've sold or given away my last few 84- fuel caps , , will see if I have another , can't promise anything, , well unless I paint a later tank for the 84  ,, but I've done that with effie 

i would be more than happy to buy it from you. if not im going to have to figure something out. was thinking about buying something like this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fuel-Gas-Tank-Cap-With-Cover-Key-For-SUZUKI-GSXR-600-750-1000-2000-2003-/251145840144?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a79756610&vxp=mtr
and figuring a way to mount it in place... maybe some self tapping screws with some jb weld to keep them sealed and wash the take real well to get all the metal shavings from the screws... i dunno ill figure something out.

[rktmanfj]

i would be more than happy to buy it from you. if not im going to have to figure something out. was thinking about buying something like this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fuel-Gas-Tank-Cap-With-Cover-Key-For-SUZUKI-GSXR-600-750-1000-2000-2003-/251145840144?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a79756610&vxp=mtr
and figuring a way to mount it in place... maybe some self tapping screws with some jb weld to keep them sealed and wash the take real well to get all the metal shavings from the screws... i dunno ill figure something out.

Surely you jest.     

Why not just pick up a tank from one of the later 1st gen FJs (that had the more readily available cap), instead of trying to jackleg something that is probably going to end up setting your bike (and maybe you, in the process) afire?     

[racerrad8]

Is this the plug out of the oil pan or the galley just below the cover you are repairing?

Randy - RPM

[minitruckeratheart]

it was on the right side of the engine, very bottom and when i pulled it all the oil came out with it, it kinda smelled like it had gas in the oil as well it was very thin oil. the cover i was repairing is on the left. oh and what is the points looking things?(ya know under the cover i was repairing) the buddy that was helping me with the carbs said they were electronic points???