FJ1346 from ashes to... Well, we'll see...

[FJmonkey]

So it would need to be flat?

It a reference of one surface to another, relative measurement....

[ribbert]

So it would need to be flat?

It a reference of one surface to another, relative measurement....

.......so, the steeper the angle, the more vertical measurement is progressively lost to horizontal movement of the pointer moving across the surface? 

[FJmonkey]

.......so, the steeper the angle, the more vertical measurement is progressively lost to horizontal movement of the pointer moving across the surface? 

Yes, the steeper the angle the worse it gets, but the loss is minimal. At too steep an angle the gauge is useless.

[56 CHEVY]

Indicators such as the Interapid he is using are designed to be used with the needle at 12 degrees to the surface being checked.

[skymasteres]

Wow, I certainly did not expect the method of measurement to generate so much discussion.
I set up the needle about as parallel as I could to the piston when I took the measurement.
As chance would have it, it was between 10 and 15 degrees inclinded to the surface. I'm not
going to worry about the tiny error the mismatch to true 12 degrees would cause because I
may be on the high side compression wise anyway.

I still have to mock everything up and figure out where that stands. Now I am finding all of the
little things that I misplaced like dowel pins and bolts.

[skymasteres]

Here actually leaving the case halves together not only saved me all of the work of splitting them again,
not something I was even considering, but it also allowed the unthreaded portion of the hole in the upper
case half to serve as a guide making it easy to keep the bit straight. Unfortionately, the chuck on my drill
was too fat to fit past the case with the length of the bit being so short. Bummer, now what do I do?
After a little thinking it dawned on me that I could braze the bit to the tube and back it up with a section
of solid brass rod.



The most important bit to remember here is to do some proper surface prep when brazing, that and use
some liquid flux. (It works so much better than the paste stuff it's ridiculous) Oh, and remember that the drill
bit you weld this way is pretty much a throw away after this. I ended up using too much heat initially and
after I thought I had it and was about to all a little more filler I torched the dang bit in half. Not to be deterred
I cleaned it up on the sander and tried again, this time successful, and went into test it out.





So here is the essence of what I am doing to get this bolt out. Tubes to protect the threads and align the
bit. And an extension to allow a straight shot with the drill. (It's a good thing I took a picture because the
brass tube sheared about 10 seconds later)
Back to the garage. This time I stepped up to the next drill size up and started again. The brazing worked
out much better this time since I didn't overheat the heck out of it.



That combined with the fact that I had a larger diameter tube, could handle more torque, I was able to
complete the drilling... right  though the bottom of the hole, straight through the case... D'oh...
Turns out there wasn't any steel in there after all. The bolt looked that way and felt "funny" because I had
bottomed it out in the hole... Oh well. Live and learn.  I ended up just putting a stud in there and using a nut
on top.

[skymasteres]

Progress is once again being made, since I am waiting for the oil pan dowels to come in I have been working
on filling the cases with the rest of the odds and ends that make up these engines.

Here is the oil pump finally ready to go in. I have all of the new o-rings positioned and the input shaft bearing
retainer plate has been secured. (With fasteners coated in lock tite and torqued to spec) You can also see
the ball bearing shift arm that I installed. (Via Randy at RPM)



Once the oil pump is in place I got the drive gear and pushing put in place as well as the clutch basket bushing
and spacer positioned. (Unfortunately the case doesn't allow you to put the basket on this way. You have to
put the basket in position first THEN put the bearing and bushing in.)



This part is kind of nerve wracking as I don't want to leave anything out. The shop manual makes mention of a
seal when putting this stuff back together. Took me way too long to figure out that it was talking about the
pushrod seal on the opposite side of the case.

Here's the clutch basket positioned. (there is actually a steel and friction plate that doesn't come out because
of this fine wire that goes all the way around)



Here are all of the friction plates and steels in place with the bolt torqued to the required 50' #'s.  I ended up
pressing on it with my thumb as hard as I could and turning the torque wrench with my otyher hand till I got it
to click. Took several tries to keep it from slipping on me.



This is the clutch spring carrier kit I got from randy. It's basically a stock pressure plate with bigger holes machined
into it and a reinforcing plate to hold the spring cups. Basically converts the clutch from a diaphragm spring to a
standard six spring setup.



Here is the plate installed with washers that go over the ends of the springs and utilizing the stock ring that aligns
the bolts. I ended up putting it in in stages using three longer bolts to compress the springs till I could get the
stock bolts in. (I'm not sure it I did it right or how much travel I need.



This is how it sits now. (Not terribly comfortable with the way the springs are retained. I'm pretty sure if I torque
them to spec, they'll bottom out and the whole thing will be fixed with no travel...



And yes, that is YET ANOTHER fastener that I have snapped off in this case! ARRRRRGG!!!

Oh, and on a side note, I just found out that bikebandit is not renewing their podium membership deal.
So no more free  shipping on parts orders for me...

[rktmanfj]

Here's the clutch basket positioned. (there is actually a steel and friction plate that doesn't come out because
of this fine wire that goes all the way around)

Isn't that the fine wire that should be removed and thrown away?   

I can't find the thread for it right now.

[racerrad8]

Here is the plate installed with washers that go over the ends of the springs and utilizing the stock ring that aligns
the bolts. I ended up putting it in in stages using three longer bolts to compress the springs till I could get the
stock bolts in. (I’m not sure it I did it right or how much travel I need.

#1 - The oil seal you were looking for is the o-ring on the end of the pressure plate plunger.
#2 - You need to remove the stock steel ring that was used with the stock diaphragm spring. Use only the large washers that were in the kit.
#3 - The bolts do bottom out on the stantion they are bolted to, just like the ring on the stock spring. The springs might look like they are bottomed out, but they are not. When using the coils springs there is not real need to tighten them evenly, each spring is individual of itself.
#4 - Clutch slipping? Look here. You need to read the clutch file. About halfway through you will come across the "fine wire".

and finally...

#5 - Do not use the 8mm head bolts on the clutch, they are soft and will stretch & break. You should only use the 10mm with the number in the head for that.

Randy - RPM

[Pat Conlon]

Yep, what Randy said...
Use the stock torque specification on the coil springs.
In addition, when you read the post Randy linked to...you will see (after you remove the wire snap ring) where you can remove the base cushion spring and small fiber plate, which will allow a large clutch fiber plate to be installed.
With your big motor you will want all the fiber plate area you can get in your clutch pack.

[skymasteres]

Isn't that the fine wire that should be removed and thrown away?   

I can't find the thread for it right now.

I took one look at that and was like "D'oh!" Then the words from the resident guru helped.
Although on a side note. In the manual is differentiates between oil seals and o-rings. It mentions
the plunger o-ring AND the seal. But the seal isn't anywhere near the part being assembled.
Go figure.

So now I'm getting the requisite parts from Randy to get the clutch sorted out.

First there was the huge pain in the rear of dealing with the fact that I didn't mask the combustion
chambers when I coated the ports. Of course the stuff ran and I didn't have any way of getting it
off except to sand it carefully with emery paper. (It's a heck of a lot tougher than I thought it was
that's for sure)



Just when you thought I was done with all of the coating madness...

Yes indeed, the valve stems are getting a thin film lubricant. Since I wanted to keep them in the same
order that they came out of the head I ended up using an old piece of cardboard and pushing them
through. Then I numbered them so that when I went through the coating process I could keep track
of which went where.



They're a lot easier to handle when they have a piece of annealed wire wrapped around the retainer groove...



Once everything is coated, sanded, buffed, and polished it's time to get it put back together.



I'm telling you though, holy crap is it just pain or what to get those friggin little locks in place.
I mean WOW. They are tiny, and go wherever they please. Even with the right tool they're trouble.



So, I get 13 valves installed and find out that I am missing three of the spring seats. Not any
keepers, not any of the locks, but three seats. Of well. Loosing parts when I am desperately
trying to finish this seems to be a theme...

[X-Ray]

I don't mind doing a bit of work on my bike, but all THIS work you are doing, has my head spinning,     I'm in awe.
I did pull apart my IT175J Yamaha 2 stroke many years ago to get rebuilt, bit it was simple compared to this.

[skymasteres]

I don't mind doing a bit of work on my bike, but all THIS work you are doing, has my head spinning,     I'm in awe.
I did pull apart my IT175J Yamaha 2 stroke many years ago to get rebuilt, bit it was simple compared to this.

Well Thank you so much for the comment. On the bright side I have been making progress, albeit slow
and incremental. It's always a little like Christmas when a box with parts in it comes. Right now more
than ever because it means I can move forward...

Here is the oil pickup screen installed. I have to say, that thing REALLY needs to be pressed on hard.
That and I wish I had kept better track of where I had put all of my fasteners. I mean good grief. I'm
missing bolt number "5" and the copper washer that goes in the center of the oil pan.



So anyway, some of you might remember the horror that was the original cylinder head...



I know, gasp, cue creepy dramatic music. But within this burned up part are three golden
nuggets that will allow forward progress to continue. Namely, the three missing spring seats.
Here are the parts removed netting me the pieces I need to finish assembly on my cylinder head.

[/URL]

Remember that burned valve? Well here is a better shot of it. (It's actually one of two
burned exhaust valves)



And here is the backside of it.



I'm not quite sure what that black ring around the perimeter is, but it was sitting awfully low
in the cylinder head... (Maybe the valve seat itself?)



Anyway, here is the assembled head.



But I ran into an issue. The spring cups/shim holders are an awfully tight fit over the springs
and in the bores. It feels like they are touching stuff on the inside and outside. They certainly
don't "fall out" like the old ones. They need to be pressed in. Am I missing something here?

[movenon]

Damn that's the wost exhaust valve that I have ever seen ! Lucky you got into it when you did !
George

[fj11.5]

Hell,  I thought my exhaust valves were toasted, don't think they were quite that bad,