FJ-1100 clutch master cyl swap

[zz28zz]

My clutch master cyl is leaking and making a big mess.
Rebuild kits are pricey and mine would need to be stripped and repainted.

Now I'm on the hunt for a replacement.

Are there any FJ-1200 master cyls that can be used or am I limited to FJ-1100 parts?

[Harvy]

FJ1100 and FJ1200 clutch master cylinders are the same.
You can also go for a different 14mm master if you can't find a replacement for your 5/8 OEM unit. FJR and FZ1 units.
I went with one from a YZF750 to get rid of the coffin box fluid container - its a urine cup unit.

Harvy

[zz28zz]

Thx for the quick reply.
I want to keep the appearance of the original but like the idea of a 14mm.
Are there any 14mm units that have the coffin box reservoir and the orig type mirror mount?
I've been looking on ebay, but the listings don't specify if they are 14mm..

[bigbore2]

Are there any larger [15-16mm units]  to fit so i can get an easier clutch pull?

[racerman_27410]

FJR1300 clutch master..... works great with the stock clutch slave cylinder and also perfectly matches the FJR/FZ1 brake master



KOokaloo!

[oldktmdude]

Are there any larger [15-16mm units]  to fit so i can get an easier clutch pull?

To make the clutch lever easier to pull, you need to decrease the m/c piston diameter. 14mm or 9/16" is a good size.

[zz28zz]

I went with a FJ-1200 master mainly because it will match my front brake master and it considerably cheaper to rebuild than my original (FJ-1100) master. For some odd reason the 1100 kit is ~$85 and the 1200 kit is ~$25. I realize the 1100 kit has a couple more parts, but........

The 14mm units would be easier to pull but they have to be pulled farther to accomplish the same thing.
You would get more "feel" with the 14mm, but after I thought abt it, I have no real complaints abt the "feel" of the stock 5/8" unit, at least with the stock length lever. With shorty levers and/or beefier clutch springs it might be a diff story..

For the front brake, the 14mm would mean more stopping power for the same amount of effort, but since I'm already running FZR 320mm rotors, the 14mm master might be over-kill.
I've locked the front tire more than once during panic stops with the 5/8 master.

[oldktmdude]

  I'm using a 14mm m/c with 320mm FZR rotors and the braking is sensational. One finger is all the pressure needed. I find it easier than when I had a 5/8" m/c because you actually need to pull the lever further, granted you don't require as much force to lock the front end but once you get used to it, it's great. Pete.

[fj11.5]

hope it arrives tomorrow, , I'm waiting on what I think is a 16mm radial mc, interested in finding out if it is better or worse than the 5/8 yzf one fitted now , as its for 6 piston calipers , not 4 piston blue spots, as it is atm lever is hard to pull , not helpfull that I'm fitted with small hands 

[zz28zz]

Well my e-bay FJ-1200 clutch master arrived today. Looked pretty good. Paint was still in good shape. Mounted it on the bars. When I went to install the turn signal/high beam/horn switch assy, I noticed the little tang that keeps the switch assy from rotating on the bars was missing from the clutch master cyl mount. DAMIT

The weather is really nice this week and I'm seriously itching to ride.

I tried wrapping a few layers of elec tape on the bar so the switch assy would grip the bars and not rotate, but it appears that it's not really designed to "clamp" onto the bars so I had limited success.

I'm thinking abt trying to replace the missing tang with something. Maybe file the clutch mount enough to slip a small piece of stainless rod between the mount and the bars to make a tang??

Anyone had to make a repair like this before?

[Arnie]

I've filed the tang off the masters both clutch and brake. 
Mine still gripped the bars when the screws were tightened.
I do leave  them just loose enough that they can rotate if hit, rather than snapping off.
If your bar clamp really isn't tight enough either put a piece of shim stock under that clamp side or file the mating faces enough that they'll clamp onto the bar.

Arnie

[Mark Olson]

a simple repair will do

step 1.. open a can of beer and drink it.

step 2.. take cutters to beer can and make shims to put under the clamp and tighten it up.

step 3.. uhh , there is none you're done.

[zz28zz]

Thx Arnie. I feel a little better now..
The tape under the switch works fairly well. I can operate the switch controls without it rotating, even the choke, so I guess it will be OK.

I got the new slave cyl installed this morn. Since the clutch master isn't coming back off, looks like I'm ready to flush the line out and install the Dot5 fluid.

Just as luck would have it, now that I'm an hour or 2 from being ready for a test drive, it started raining.

[zz28zz]

Well clutch is all back together. I had some issues with it and posted them in another thread called "bringing FJ out of hibernation".
Basically my ebay clutch master cyl assy had been put together wrong at some point before I got it. It is a different animal than my original 1100 master cyl so I don't have anything to compare it with, and the IPC pictures only help so much.

Main problem is where/how the lever contacts the pushrod. When I first took it apart, I noticed the push rod went completely thru the bushing (that's in the lever) and was digging into the lever itself.. Also noticed some abnormal wear on the part of the lever that faces the cyl and holds the bushing..  (pic would be good right now).. Either way the pushrod is installed, it contacts the lever the wrong way. I'm pretty sure the pushing on the pushrod should come from the bushing in the lever and not the lever itself.

With the broken tang, this issue with the pushrod and the threads that were partially stripped on the lever pivot bolt, I'm seriously considering sending the master cyl back to seller. I'm also having issues with front brake master cyl. May be time to upgrade both master cyls...

[bigbore2]

Smaller is easier, OK.  But the lever has to travel farther to fully disengage?  Makes sense.  thanx