What to do first?

[keand3]

Thanks. Got them on!
Got the gas tank back on just in time to remember the filter has to be sprayed or oiled as it said in the instruction...
Nahh.. thats a job for tomorrow :-)

[FJSpringy]

Does anyone have a good tip on how to mount the UNI filters?
Everytime i try to tighten them they just slide right of my carbs.

Try wiping the surfaces down with contact cleaner, and don't overtighten them.

+1 on this one 

[fj1289]

Also found out a long time ago not to substitute standard sized hose clamps - they are wider than the ones that come with the filters and will push the filter off as they are tightened 

[keand3]

Thanks for the advice guys.

Yesterday I bought a FZR 17" rear wheel and will be doing the swap later this summer.
But, since i have blue dots on the front i would also like it on the back.
Has this been done before? Does it bolt up just as easy as the front?

The search function diden't give me any hits if irs been done and how..

Cheers
Ken

[FJSpringy]

But, since i have blue dots on the front i would also like it on the back.
Has this been done before? Does it bolt up just as easy as the front?

Cheers
Ken

It's on a T/Ace rear end but It may give you an idea or 2

http://www.fjmods.co.uk/MarcRittner3.htm

[keand3]

I was aware of that article, and did read it, but the article diden't awnser my question im afraid.

But since its designed as a underslung caliper its unlikly it will fit on stock swingarm and caliper mounts..
Will do some more research.

Cheers.
Ken

[movenon]

You might PM "Yamaha FJ Rider" and get acquainted, he is in the beginnings of the conversion. 
George

[Pat Conlon]

But since its designed as a underslung caliper its unlikly it will fit on stock swingarm and caliper mounts..

You are correct, it won't. Don't worry about it, the FJ rear brake is more than adequate.

There are other more important things to improve (read: modify) on the FJ, besides the rear brake.

[keand3]

You are correct, it won't. Don't worry about it, the FJ rear brake is more than adequate.

There are other more important things to improve (read: modify) on the FJ, besides the rear brake.

Thanks, thought i might see if it was possible. Getting it to match up the front wouldn't hurt, but it won't bother me if it don't 

Have slowly started my assembly of the bike today. Started by flushing out the fuel tank and gave it a really good clean and boy am I glad i did that! Was waaaaay too much nasty shit in there....
Don't want that in the system.. The fuel petcock was also way to dirty for my taste... Took it of and gave it a good clean to..

But there is something I'm missing, and I just can't figure it out.
When mounting the tank back on, I connect the main fuel line back on the petcock, and there is also a smaller line on the petcock and I don't know were it goes.
Parts Microfiche - Diagram has i named pipeline 3.

[Pat Conlon]

That's a important line. That is a vacuum line which is connected to your #1 intake port. The vacuum from the engine opens the petcock, and when the engine stops, the loss of vacuum closes the petcock so the petcock does not stay open and floods your engine with gas.
You will see a small port on the petcock where this line attaches and also on the #1 intake.
Your bike needs this vacuum line to properly function.

[keand3]

Thanks Pat
I kinda figured out i has something to do with vacuum, but didn't know were it went. Turns out I did put a cap on the intake port while the carbs were off the bike, and didn't realise it until now 

Any way i reviled another problem with the tank, or the petcock to be more specific.
The previous owner has at some point had the tank and petcock of, but apparently he lost one of the two screws that holds the petcock. Mine is attached with one screw on one side and with a bolt and nut on the other.
An now that I am trying to put it back, am not able to get bolt an nut fasten. The bolt is hold by a nut or something similar on the inside of the tank an can be pushed straight down in the tank.

Any ideas on how to fix it? Hopefully he did not destroy the threads for the screw so it is just to replace it with oem screw, but i would not count on it...

Cheers

[Pat Conlon]

If the threads on the tank are buggered (like you assume, a good bet) try drilling and taping the thread with the next larger size, even if it's a SAE thread. Just use the next size up (even if it's not metric) I don't know how much meat you have on the tank threads to drill out for going to a oversize thread and bolt.
I do agree that it's silly to fuss with a nut/bolt application when one side of the connector is inside the tank.

I suggest a new petcock O ring while your down there.

[keand3]

From the size of the bolt i assume it similar to the screw, so most likely it is a buggered threads, yes

Will try making a size bigger, but that have to wait until next week.. Easter has every story in this country closed for days. Typical when you need to buy something eh? 

I am not all to familiar with all this mechanical terms, could you clarify what SEA threads is or means?

Thanks for the tip Pat.

[Pat Conlon]

I forget you are in Norway, everything is prolly metric over there.
In the colonies, we have 2 flavors, vanilla and chocolate, SAE standard and metric.
SAE stands for the Society of Automotive Engineers. The first organization in the world to (attempt to) standardize automotive components and testing  standards.
SAE  threads are sized based on fractions of a inch...Metric is based on millimeters, vanilla and chocolate .

Cheers lad. Keep up the good work, it will be worth it.

[keand3]

I forget you are in Norway, everything is prolly metric over there.

Polly metric indeed! Sometimes it gets a bit to much for my tast, but then again I can't really complain, we have it way to comfy up here 

I pulled out the bolt in the tank today, and the threads weren't ruined so a new screws is all thats needed 

Cheers
Ken