What to do first?

rktmanfj · February 22, 2013, 02:22:44 PM

Jon Cain special...

keand3 · February 22, 2013, 03:08:31 PM

Exactly what i am looking for!

Did you make it your self or bought it?

Ken

fj11.5 · February 22, 2013, 03:28:50 PM

Quote from: Pat Conlon on February 17, 2013, 02:02:47 PM
Quote from: markmartin on February 17, 2013, 12:21:02 PM
Take your seat off and place the fuel tank where your seat was, with the front of the tank facing the rear of the bike. This way you won't need an axillary tank to sync your carbs.
Nope, not with that bike. The tank switcheroo works with the fuel pump models, not with the gravity fed FJs.
At least I've never figured out how to do it on my '84. It works like a charm on my '92.

,, to synch the carbs on my 84 i fitted a slightly longer vaccume line and slide the tank back enough to reach the carb screws, , on the 84 ambulance just switch it to prime and with a longer fuel line just swap ends with the tank, no running issues at wot under load as yet ,, oh and plug the vaccume to carb

rktmanfj · February 22, 2013, 03:35:58 PM

Quote from: keand3 on February 22, 2013, 03:08:31 PM
Exactly what i am looking for!
Did you make it your self or bought it?

Ken

Jon Cain (JCainFJ) made that one for me...

FJmonkey · February 22, 2013, 05:59:55 PM

Quote from: not a lib on February 22, 2013, 03:35:58 PM
Quote from: keand3 on February 22, 2013, 03:08:31 PM
Exactly what i am looking for!
Did you make it your self or bought it?
Ken
Jon Cain (JCainFJ) made that one for me...

I might be able to fab some of them up at my work. Some basic dimensions would help. I can get the hole centers for mounting off my bike, I might be able to fake the rest.

rktmanfj · February 22, 2013, 10:50:08 PM

Quote from: FJmonkey on February 22, 2013, 05:59:55 PM
Quote from: not a lib on February 22, 2013, 03:35:58 PM
Quote from: keand3 on February 22, 2013, 03:08:31 PM
Exactly what i am looking for!
Did you make it your self or bought it?
Ken
Jon Cain (JCainFJ) made that one for me...
I might be able to fab some of them up at my work. Some basic dimensions would help. I can get the hole centers for mounting off my bike, I might be able to fake the rest.

I'll measure it for you tomorrow.

keand3 · February 23, 2013, 12:37:56 AM

Thanks guys. I really appreciate it!

keand3 · February 24, 2013, 01:18:40 PM

Is the Mikuni carburetors on the 85' FJ600 the same as the on in 11-1200?
I accidentally came across this video on youtube, and it got me puzzled.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MdfH_kodoSU

I am thinking of taking out my carbs for a nice clean and a inspection, since i have the time before the riding season starts.
I also noticed the previous owner have to be sloppy with cleaning his bikse, since the screws and area around the carbs are really filthy and covered i black sticky stuff...
Also if i do have to rebuild them, a video showing me how would be great since it would be the first time doing it.

By the way, I have search Youtube for videos om mechanical maintenance and repairs on FJ, there are non! Only all other bikes! Strange or are they all just well maintained?

Ken

FJmonkey · February 24, 2013, 01:59:27 PM

Ken, I am currently undergoing my first motorcycle carb cleaning. Rebuilt a few for my cars, Rochester 4 barrel on my 66' Olds was easy stuff. Someone posted a clip on YouTube for cleaning Muniki carbs that was really good. Consider getting the RPM carb fastener kit. It replaces all the Phillips fasteners with hex sockets, no more stripped screws. http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=carbkit&cat=24. I am glad I have these because one of the screws on the rail is buggered and I had to slot it with my Dremmel to get it off. I am getting a parts list together for RPM so I can reassemble and get my Kookaloo back on... Best of luck and speed to you....

keand3 · February 24, 2013, 02:15:27 PM

It seems fairly straight forward with some patience and all the parts needed at hand.
Thanks for the tip on the fastener kit!

It is tempting just to send the carbs away to get them done for me, but the cost for that here i Norway is astronomical!! I bet i could shipped them around the world to be done elsewhere shipped back and still save money!

I have seen Randy has New Mikuni Carburetor Assembly and it would be tempting but its set-up for pumps and i don't think I will bee converting to pumps..
No matter what happens, it will involve some beers

Ken

FJmonkey · February 24, 2013, 02:37:35 PM

I am sure Randy will quote you on GF carbs, he rides an 86' as well.

keand3 · February 24, 2013, 02:44:00 PM

Im sure he will

I might send of an email and ask, heck all the parts will be coming from him anyway so..

Ken

Arnie · February 24, 2013, 06:36:17 PM

Quote from: keand3 on February 24, 2013, 01:18:40 PM
Is the Mikuni carburetors on the 85' FJ600 the same as the on in 11-1200?
I accidentally came across this video on youtube, and it got me puzzled.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MdfH_kodoSU

Ken

That vid of the FJ600 carbs is pretty close to the FJ1200 carbs.
Some points to caution you about.....
The float pivot pin posts frequentlly do break if you just hit the pin to move them. Be careful and support the post before you use a properly sized drift to move it.

US bike carb needles only have a single groove for the C clip. Other markets usually have 5 grooves. If you remove the C clip (no real reason to) make a note of which groove it was in.

Do NOT use a steel screwdriver to tap on brass jets!! Use a properly sized drift, preferably made of brass, aluminum, or hardwood.

Lifting the slides by the diaphram is asking for trouble. Put your finger into the carb throat and lift the slide from the bottom, then there will be enough metal of the slide exposed for you to grab it just below the diaphram and remove it.

If you're dis-assembling the carbs to clean them, replacing the fasteners and O-rings with the kit Randy sells is a Vgood idea.

Arnie

movenon · February 24, 2013, 07:09:37 PM

Also while you have the carbs off. Pull the plastic intake manifolds off and replace the O rings there.. They are cheap and an air leak there can lean things out. Be careful with the manifolds they are plastic.
I took a few min. extra and lapped the diaphragm's covers and carb body tops with fine wet or dry on a flat surface. It is not unheard of where the Phillips head screws go (tip: replace with S.S. hex head screws) holding the diaphragm's caps, get bent because of previous owners over tightening them making it hard to get a seal with the O ring's. Just take a flat surface and some fine wet or dry and hit them real quick to check for flatness. Is that a word ?

Rebuilt mine last winter. No problems. I used a small finishing nail to tap out the float pins. As mentioned support the pins and tap lightly. DO NOT bang on them. They will break. Mine came out real easy. I replaced every jet, needle and emulsion tube with new from Randy's. After 20 plus years it was due I think.
George

SlowOldGuy · February 24, 2013, 09:34:44 PM

A few tips on float pin maintenance:

As other have already said, be very careful getting them out.
Once out, use some 600 grit sandpaper to take a bit off the OD.
When re-installing the float pin, DO NOT press it all the way in! Leave a small gap between the head and the post. Next time you need to remove them, use an old knife blade to pry between the head and the post to pop them out.

Don't worry about the pin falling out, it's trapped my the float bowl.

DavidR.

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What to do first?

SlowOldGuy