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Another carbs tuning question

Started by Alf, September 16, 2012, 04:26:29 AM

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racerrad8

Quote from: The General on October 12, 2012, 08:35:13 PM
Okay, so the shiny washer on top, normally between E clip and little spring, I put under the E clip so lifting needle by the thickness of the washer. I measure the washer at 0.5mm. Then I measure between needle slots and it appears to also be 0.5mm. (or have I got that wrong cause Vernier calipers not that sharp).  :scratch_one-s_head:
Therefore wouldn`t the affect mean that I may as well just move the needle up 1 slot? or should I buy a washer or shim  0.25mm?  Doug

It all depends on how tight the plastic piece is on the needle is going to determine if you can use that washer. If the plastic piece is loose then the needle can raise up because the washer is not holding it via the e-clip under the spring.

If the distance of the groove sis the same, lower the clip on notch and leave the washer were it is supposed to be to ensure the needle never slips up causing other issues.

Randy - RPM
Randy - RPM

The General

Quote from: racerrad8 on October 12, 2012, 08:48:35 PM
Quote from: The General on October 12, 2012, 08:35:13 PM
Okay, so the shiny washer on top, normally between E clip and little spring, I put under the E clip so lifting needle by the thickness of the washer. I measure the washer at 0.5mm. Then I measure between needle slots and it appears to also be 0.5mm. (or have I got that wrong cause Vernier calipers not that sharp).  :scratch_one-s_head:
Therefore wouldn`t the affect mean that I may as well just move the needle up 1 slot? or should I buy a washer or shim  0.25mm?  Doug

It all depends on how tight the plastic piece is on the needle is going to determine if you can use that washer. If the plastic piece is loose then the needle can raise up because the washer is not holding it via the e-clip under the spring.

If the distance of the groove sis the same, lower the clip on notch and leave the washer were it is supposed to be to ensure the needle never slips up causing other issues.

Randy - RPM
That`s what I figured, thanks Randy. So a full groove height change won`t be too high for the new filters? (ie if it is slightly - it can be tune adjusted for max power/efficiecey)

Given I prefer maximising torque as compared to maximising HP, would you recommend retarding spark generally though ever so slightly from standard?  (popcorn)
`93 with downside up forks.
`78 XS11/1200 with a bit on the side.
Special edition Rocket Ship ZX14R Kwacka

racerrad8

Quote from: The General on October 12, 2012, 09:25:50 PM
That`s what I figured, thanks Randy. So a full groove height change won`t be too high for the new filters? (ie if it is slightly - it can be tune adjusted for max power/efficiecey)

Given I prefer maximising torque as compared to maximising HP, would you recommend retarding spark generally though ever so slightly from standard?  (popcorn)

No, that is the recommended setting I give for the dual pod install when removing the airbox.

You are never going to want to retard the timing. You will benefit from advancing the timing as the torque will come in sooner as the spark is advanced. You will be pleasantly surprised if you advance the timing as the engine is much crisper.

Randy - RPM
Randy - RPM

Arnie

The grooves are 1mm apart. (measure from top of one to top of next)
The washers are 0.5mm thick.

So, put the washer UNDER the Eclip to raise 1/2 a groove.

Arnie