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Respraying Enigine

Started by BarryAnthony, July 06, 2012, 10:15:31 AM

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BarryAnthony

July 06, 2012, 10:15:31 AM
Hello all,

Firstly, I hope this post is the right section and secondly, I'm sure you've heard it before, but anyways...

I've acquired and '86 FJ, that was is a reasonable state of disrepair. Restoring it to its former glory seemed to be more difficult and costly to be a viable option, so streetfighting was the way to go. Anyhow, much has been done to it thus far including: Shot-blasted & Powder coated Main frame & Swingarm. Raised Sub and powder coated. Reshaped seat. Carbs professional stripped & cleaned. Custom 4 into 1 (GSXR1100) Can. And a couple of various other bits.

By now the engine is sitting on the garage floor, minus the rocker cover (gone for coating), and starter motor; and has been given the good news with a dremel and sand paper, and is ready for a new coat of paint.

So my question is this...
VHT rattle can paint is my budget for the block. Should I use, or is there a High Temp Primer I should use before spaying it?
And with regards to the crankcase/alternator/lower parts etc, is there any other method/suggestions I could employ to make it look spectacular or is the VHT suitable?  :smile:

racerman_27410

#1
July 07, 2012, 01:56:26 AM
you can go with VHT paint on a clean surface...... just give it plenty of time to cure before you heat cycle the engine.... try not to get any more on the cylinder fins than you have to as paint does not conduct heat very well.


KOokaloo!

ribbert

#2
July 07, 2012, 03:59:59 AM
Quote from: racerman_27410 on July 07, 2012, 01:56:26 AM
you can go with VHT paint on a clean surface...... just give it plenty of time to cure before you heat cycle the engine.... try not to get any more on the cylinder fins than you have to as paint does not conduct heat very well.


KOokaloo!
By all means let it dry, but it's the heat cycle that does the curing. The finish remains very fragile and is not resistant to fuel, cleaning products, oil or heavy handling etc. until it's been cured. I left my last one sitting on the bench for a month before installing it only to discover the dust it had collected was now part of the paint surface, and remains so.  I took my other one for it's first post paint ride in the rain and the front of that turned to crap.
I agree with the prep, it only needs to be clean. I just give them a kero wash and then a high pressure clean.
This is my engine 40,000 k's after I painted it with just a good wash as prep. Not a single flaky bit anywhere. I didn't use VHT but I think there all much the same.
Noel
"Tell a wise man something he doesn't know and he'll thank you, tell a fool something he doesn't know and he'll abuse you"

fj11.5

#3
July 07, 2012, 04:14:44 AM
ive seen engines done with wood heater paint, sprayed on, very heat proof but a bitch to clean as its matt, i used black epoxy enamel, on a clean warmed engine , (my own)  :good2: , gave a light coat, left it for an hour , went for a ride around the block, came home waited till engine was cooled enough to be able to touch the head without losing skin and gave her a heavy coat left to cure over night , went for a sunday ride the next day once the baking paint fumes stop paint was baked on,  :wacko3: so far holding up well, no flaking and a wash brings the road grime off (popcorn)
unless you ride bikes, I mean really ride bikes, then you just won't get it

84 Fj1100  effie , with mods
( 88 ) Fj 1200  fairly standard , + blue spots
84 Fj1100 absolutely stock standard, now more stock , fitted with Fj12 twin system , no rusted headers for this felicity jayne

BarryAnthony

#4
July 07, 2012, 05:44:05 PM
Great stuff guys, thanks for that invaluable advice. And I'd be very, very pleased if mine looks like that Ribbert.
I was hoping to get it done soon, but because the bike is down to nuts and bolts at the moment, it seems like I'm going to have to get it very close to a running state before I spray it; in order to run it and let it cure.
As I mentioned, the whole bike is in many little pieces, and I was hoping to pop the engine back in (sprayed), and then do lots of other bits and bobs (lots and lots of bits and bobs!), but I don't think that's really feasible now if I want the engine to look good as its naked.
Unless there's another way to cure it?
I am generally a fly by the seat of my pants kinda of guy, but this really isn't something I want to take shortcuts on, but also on a very tight budget; so if you reccommended this is the way to go, go I shall.

fj11.5

#5
July 07, 2012, 06:26:19 PM
how big is your oven  :biggrin:
unless you ride bikes, I mean really ride bikes, then you just won't get it

84 Fj1100  effie , with mods
( 88 ) Fj 1200  fairly standard , + blue spots
84 Fj1100 absolutely stock standard, now more stock , fitted with Fj12 twin system , no rusted headers for this felicity jayne

miked

#6
July 07, 2012, 10:17:15 PM
Quote from: fj11.5 on July 07, 2012, 06:26:19 PM
how big is your oven  :biggrin:

I was thinking the same thing  :biggrin: Wait until the missus it out, ditch all of the silly oven slides and crap, then slip her in..... :crazy:

fj11.5

#7
July 07, 2012, 11:17:54 PM
plenty of room once you shift the parts trays  :good2:
unless you ride bikes, I mean really ride bikes, then you just won't get it

84 Fj1100  effie , with mods
( 88 ) Fj 1200  fairly standard , + blue spots
84 Fj1100 absolutely stock standard, now more stock , fitted with Fj12 twin system , no rusted headers for this felicity jayne

BarryAnthony

#8
July 08, 2012, 01:54:13 PM
Ha! Y'know, if the oven was big enough I would try it!

Pat Conlon

#9
July 08, 2012, 02:31:23 PM
It's a hell of a stink.....
1) Free Owners Manual download: https://tinyurl.com/fmsz7hk9
2) Don't store your FJ with E10 fuel https://tinyurl.com/3cjrfct5
3) Replace your old stock rubber brake lines.
4) Important items for the '84-87 FJ's:
Safety wire: https://tinyurl.com/99zp8ufh
Fuel line: https://tinyurl.com/bdff9bf3

FeralJuggernaut

#10
July 08, 2012, 08:52:40 PM
How hot is 'hot enough' to set the paint?  I am thinking about the heat gun used to strip regular paint, think that would get up to a high enough temp to get the job done?   Does it actually 'gas off' something visible so you know the cooking is 'done'?   

I thought for sure the Paddy's answer was going to be polish it!   What temp is Simichrome good up to?        :drinks:
-----------
Safety Fast

Dan Filetti

#11
July 08, 2012, 09:07:27 PM
If the engine is in pieces, then take the parts to a powder coating shop and have it done correctly. 

It might cost a few bucks but it will last a lot longer than rattle can.

Worth considering.

Dan

Live hardy, or go home. 

ribbert

#12
July 08, 2012, 09:12:01 PM
Quote from: FeralJuggernaut on July 08, 2012, 08:52:40 PM
How hot is 'hot enough' to set the paint?  I am thinking about the heat gun used to strip regular paint, think that would get up to a high enough temp to get the job done?   Does it actually 'gas off' something visible so you know the cooking is 'done'?   

I thought for sure the Paddy's answer was going to be polish it!   What temp is Simichrome good up to?        :drinks:

I wouldn't use a heat gun, too localised and too hot. You are not drying the surface, you are "curing "the paint.  I think the instructions suggest 2 hrs riding. That's every nook and cranny heated right through from the inside out at high temp for 2 hrs.
The choices for a successful finish are oven or ride and the logistics of using an oven too hard and unnecessary.  A dry day without too many bugs is ideal. Keep it simple.
What's the problem with painting and installing it last?  There's no reason why everything else on the bike can't be done with the motor out and pop it back in last thing.
Noel
"Tell a wise man something he doesn't know and he'll thank you, tell a fool something he doesn't know and he'll abuse you"

ribbert

#13
July 08, 2012, 09:22:52 PM
Quote from: Dan Filetti on July 08, 2012, 09:07:27 PM
If the engine is in pieces, then take the parts to a powder coating shop and have it done correctly. 

It might cost a few bucks but it will last a lot longer than rattle can.

Worth considering.

Dan


You could do that, although I can't see the end difference justifying the cost, but mostly I would never trust the handling of something like loose crankcase halves and cylinder block to the care of a powder coating shop.
Noel
"Tell a wise man something he doesn't know and he'll thank you, tell a fool something he doesn't know and he'll abuse you"

Dan Filetti

#14
July 08, 2012, 09:50:07 PM
Quote from: ribbert on July 08, 2012, 09:22:52 PM
Quote from: Dan Filetti on July 08, 2012, 09:07:27 PM
take the parts to a powder coating shop
You could do that, although I can't see the end difference justifying the cost, but mostly I would never trust the handling of something like loose crankcase halves and cylinder block to the care of a powder coating shop.
Noel

Hmmm yes, there are idiots everywhere, but there is also talent.  I've seen some really fine work come out of powder coating shops, and to your point I guess, some crap.  The shop and their attention to detail must be chosen wisely.

Generally though, your reasoning is not sound.  Would you perform required heart surgery on yourself because you do not trust surgeons?  Clearly you must pick your surgeon with care.  And again a good rattle job can vs. a good powder coat, there is simply is no comparison.  They have the guns and the ovens and the technique that the vast majority of us do not have.

Dan
Live hardy, or go home. 
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