Chain tool

[ELIMINATOR]

Hmm, bearing in mind that this job will probably be my only foray into chain replacement, is this OK, anyone tried this type/ make. It is cheap, as it would only be for one use?

I may farm the job out, by the time I've bought the 36mm socket as well, it might be cheaper to let someone else do it.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/220884709958?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

[fj11.5]

i made my own sprocket socket, couldnt find one asap so bought a second hand spanner 36 mm , cut off the handle and welded on a half inch drive socket, instant 36mm socket 

[Arnie]

Assuming that chain tool is not made from cheese, but quality steel, and that you can get replacement tips....
That type of chain breaker is excellant.

Arnie

[bcguide]

I used to file or grind the pins then pry the side links of with a screw driver , then rivet in a new master link with two ball peen hammers use a large one on the back side and small one to peen the pins

Scott

[Harvy]

I used to file or grind the pins then pry the side links of with a screw driver , then rivet in a new master link with two ball peen hammers use a large one on the back side and small one to peen the pins

Scott

+1
No need for fancy bits of kit like that.
An angle grinder will get the old chain off real quick.
Thread the new chain onto the new sprockets.....join it at the bottom run, an axe between the chain and the tyre at the back, and hammer and punch to peen the pins on the side facing you....... easy as.

Just make certain, no matter what method you use, that you do not press the side plate on so tightly that you squash the x/o rings or you will end up with a tight spot at the join.

Harvy

[Pat Conlon]

Why would you grind off the old chain? I never figured that out. Why not just remove the swing arm?
The swing arm bearings, along with the shock linkage, needs to be cleaned and lubed anyway.

[Dazza57]

Cause grinding the old one off is so much quicker than disassembling all that stuff.  My 2c worth   

Heaps quicker Harvy's way IMHO.

Cheers, Dazza

[ribbert]

I used to file or grind the pins then pry the side links of with a screw driver , then rivet in a new master link with two ball peen hammers use a large one on the back side and small one to peen the pins

Scott

+1
No need for fancy bits of kit like that.
An angle grinder will get the old chain off real quick.
Thread the new chain onto the new sprockets.....join it at the bottom run, an axe between the chain and the tyre at the back, and hammer and punch to peen the pins on the side facing you....... easy as.

Just make certain, no matter what method you use, that you do not press the side plate on so tightly that you squash the x/o rings or you will end up with a tight spot at the join.

Harvy

I use Harvy's method, but stick an old ball bearing to the end of the pin with grease ( that's enough to hold it ) It gives you a uniform spread of the pin head and you can move back a bit for a nice big one arm swing with the hammer.
Last time I did it I couldn't find a bearing the right size so used the one out of the rear footpeg.
Noel

[ddlewis]

I bought a cheap chinese chain rivet-press tool off ebay about 10 years ago.  I'd guess it's been used maybe 10 times, probably half by me and half on loan outs..  It's worth having one, IMO.  Beats the hammer method by making a nice clean uniform peen. 

I also cut the old chain off with angle grinder.  If you're changing sprockets at the same time, cut the chain before you take off the rear wheel - it's awkward to cut otherwise.   The old sprocket good for holding the chain steady while you cut it

[ELIMINATOR]

I'm confused, attached are photos of the link. I expected the pins to sit proud of the side plate? Then I would be swaging it over, so that it looked like the first photo?


Hmm, do I put my centre punch in the counterbore, and belt it, so that it locks onto the I'D of the side plates?

[FJ111200]

When the link is clamped with one of the various attatchments that comes with the rivetter, the two pins that need peining will sit proud of the side plate, and that will enable the peining.
You'll probably have to get a spanner on that hex nut in the photo of the tool, as that bar looks a bit flimsy to me, and will probably bend before the pins are peined.
For £16 that tool looks cheap and nasty, i wouldn't give it the steam off me piss.

[ELIMINATOR]

I have given up on that tool, after I read that a G clamp can be used, once I've got the guy in the machine shop to make me up a couple of adaptors to do the job.

[ELIMINATOR]

What stops me from pressing the link on too far and squashing the x rings?

The pins are Ø5.47mm & the hole in the side plate is Ø5.40, that seems a lot of interference fit!

[andyb]

With the right tool, you won't press them on too far if you're careful.  Some chains, as pictured, include little shims that you fit in as spacers, so that you set the sideplate on in the correct location.

You need the pressing tool to install even a clip link properly.  Something like this, they're $20 or so.

[RACER111V]

I bit the bullet and bought a good chain tool. I'm amazed how many times I've used it. http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0058/