Wont start yet

[1tinindian]

Sounds like you need a better FJ to throw your money into.

[ddlewis]

...
And one final cherry on top: While inspecting the broken stud I noticed I had a rather heavy leak coming from the right side brake caliper. Got no idea where its leaking from as it never leaked before, but the disk is covered and so is the wheel. The only thing I did to the caliper before was take it off the wheel, detach it from the brake line and empty it of fluid. Then put new fluid in and bled. Yes i tightened the cap correctly, it had already been leaking fluid before I put new fluid in. ...

Banjo crush washers, get 'em both back in there, one on either side?  Sometimes after they've been used/crushed you can get another go out of them by annealing.  otherwise you might try new ones, they cheap.  hopefully not leaking at the pistons.

[Mark Olson]

Jesse ,

what a great opportunity you have to learn everything about the fj , you get to work on carbs and fix broken studs and fix leaky brakes and on and on.

Hang in there man , take a little pride in the fact you haven't given up yet.

find and old dog to help the young pup.

If I lived where you are, we would be sharing a few drinks and wrenchin that fj back to life.

[racerrad8]

Jesse,

You have all of the correct carb parts, you do not need larger jets. You do not need washers as the new carb kits you installed have the adjustable needles in them.

I am not sure how you cleaned the carbs prior to installing the kits, but if the small internal orifices are still plugged or restricted then it is not going to run correctly.

Unfortunately, you are asking for advice, but the details when you as for advice are not complete. Then based on the limited information, advice is given and it is not what you need.

I think you have the factory service manual, you need to get the spark plugs hooked up correctly. The idle mixture screws will not prevent the bike from starting unless they are closed, which based on you earlier posts you closed them more to get it started.

The air filters, did you follow the directions, because if you did you would have sprayed the outside of the filter and unless you soaked them while spraying them, you can't get too much oil.

You need to get the exhaust sorted, then the ignition wiring and then start on the carbs. If they are grossly out of sync you could have one or more carbs with the throttle plate totally closed and it will only run on the cylinders that are getting air & fuel...

One problem at a time...one at a time.

Randy - RPM

[FJTillDeath]

Jesse,

You have all of the correct carb parts, you do not need larger jets. You do not need washers as the new carb kits you installed have the adjustable needles in them. Cool thats good to know

I am not sure how you cleaned the carbs prior to installing the kits, but if the small internal orifices are still plugged or restricted then it is not going to run correctly. When I took the carbs off I simply sprayed carb cleaner everyhwhere and wiped. The bike ran properly before so I dont think they are dirty, but hey I may be wrong, the one mistake I made was not making a copy of the names that came in the carb kit. When I replaced everything I simply took what looked the same and put the new one in, I knew the names of some of the items, but not all. I didnt make that mistake with the carb oring and washer kit though. Silly question for you, but there are some items that come in the carb rebuild kit that are also in the carb oring and screw kit? I ask because I had a few left over parts I could not put in the carbs - orings specificallyI have not run the bike and used carb cleaner as the group warned me against that

Unfortunately, you are asking for advice, but the details when you as for advice are not complete. Then based on the limited information, advice is given and it is not what you need. For that I apologise, I can remember larny names, but only when it comes to science, still have to learn the mechanical terms

I think you have the factory service manual, you need to get the spark plugs hooked up correctly. The idle mixture screws will not prevent the bike from starting unless they are closed, which based on you earlier posts you closed them more to get it started. I did get plug connected properly by the mechanic, electrical circuits scare me just a little The idle screw I hadnt screwed in enough as when the bike did start and idle it was idling at 500rpm or something silly, so previously I had not screwed it enough enough

The air filters, did you follow the directions, because if you did you would have sprayed the outside of the filter and unless you soaked them while spraying them, you can't get too much oil. Yes I made sure I followed them, I think I just may have sprayed a little too much fluid on as the pods had turned nearly yellow. After wiping them off they returned to a more black colour, I dont think the pods were the problem though

You need to get the exhaust sorted, then the ignition wiring and then start on the carbs. If they are grossly out of sync you could have one or more carbs with the throttle plate totally closed and it will only run on the cylinders that are getting air & fuel... According to the yamaha mechanic, he balanced the carbs, he didnt tell me how much out of sync they were. But as the guy who helped me with the timing chain said, if the carbs are balanced, they are balanced to what the shimming currently is, and the shimming is all over the place. I think the main problem with the bike running so rough was the exhuast leak. I mean to leak from all 4 ports, obviously performance would be terrible. The mechanic stuffed something into the ports which helped as I could feel a bit more pwer from the bike and a lot less tractor noise from it. However with the manifold stud braking I had a new really bad exhuast leak which now causes the bike to die, very soon after startingOne problem at a time...one at a time.

Randy - RPM

One prob lem at a time is what I plan to do. starting with the exhuast. Then I will try setting the needle position. The only needle I didnot tighten all the way is the needle I circled in the pic. So maybe the reason for the bike not recieving its power is becuase of this. I have a few weeks before payday to think about the problems anyway before I can actually do anything about them..For now I will find some jokes to post up on the forum

[fj1289]

Jesse - you can probably still get some work done on the carbs.

Here's a link to a post in the files section.  Has some good diagrams of the carb with part names.  http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=658.0

If you can get your hands on some more carb cleaner, here's another excellent writeup on these carbs: http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=655.0

I would suggest setting your idle mixture screws (the screws you posted pictures of) to the base setting recommended by Randy (probably 3 turns out?).  What that means is to screw them all the way in until they LIGHTLY bottom out - DO NOT tighten too much - that will mess them up!  Then unscrew them 3 turns (or whatever Randy said to set them at!).  I usually make a half turn at a time - so 6 half turns = 3 full turns. 

Also check your float level.  a good pic for that is here: http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=6580.0

Finally, try to synch your carbs.  I'm looking for an old post that had directions on how to make a homemade (and cheap!) monometer to get the carbs synched up. 

Lots of good info in the files section - all you need (and MORE!) to know about carbs and cleaning and tuning and modifying in there.

Keep up your efforts - it will pay off in the end with a good strong KOOKALOO!

[Arnie]

Jesse,

The adjusting screws you red-circled in the pic are your idle screws.  You don't want them tightened all the way down.  You will probably have to lightly seat them, and then back them out 2-4 turns. They control how much extra fuel/air mix the bike gets at idle.
What I'm guessing you're calling the idle screw is the big one in the middle that controls idle speed.

Arnie

[FJTillDeath]

Yeah thats the one I am talking about.

Okay I will try adjusting the idle screws to 3 turns out, I will start at 2 and go from there. That may very well be a problem as when I set those I simply screwed in, then out and copied the rest to the one. I will get the carbs apart again and measure float heights and clean again..

Thanks for clearing that up and thanks for the links (I had some of them already, just have to get a decent printer, its not so cool tyoing on a laptop with dirty hands..

[fj1289]

Here's some ideas for homemade manometers to synch the carbs.  http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=6617.0
I really like the idea of the simple tube in a U shape taped to a piece of wood or cardboard.  Simply balance 2 carbs at a time - 1&2, then 3&4, finally 2&3.  Synching the carbs may make a HUGE difference - but you've got to have the idle mixture screws set the same first!

Also, thinking a bit more on it, make sure an old o-ring didn't stay in the carb when you removed the idle mixture screws and replaced with new o-rings.  Having two orings in there will keep you from bottoming the mixture screw, so you wouldn't have a good start point to screw it back out to. 

Chris W.