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Learning Curve #2 - The Carbs

Started by FJTillDeath, May 02, 2012, 02:38:40 AM

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Arnie

May as well join in here, everybody else has :-)

Acetone - You can get straight acetone at any shop that sells plastic plumbing supplies. 
The cleaner/primer for rigid PVC plastic pipe is acetone.  Smallest can likely available will probably be 250ml.
Whenever you're using it, work in a well ventilated area.  It will make you dizzier. :-)

Cheers,
Arnie

SlowOldGuy

Not sure, but PVC primer/cleaner sure smells like MEK (methylethylkeytone) to me.

DavidR.

soundmindryan

The purple primer/cleaner actually has more Acetone (60-100%) than MEK than the Yellow cleaner, which is about 40-80% Acetone per the Oatey website MSDS.
I don't know how the MEK will change the penetration/function of the ATF. They both are acetone/MEK.


Using the yellow cleaner and then the all purpose cement makes EXCELLENT ABS fairing repair glue, as long as you have old fairing parts to cut up and use as internal doublers.

I'm not sure but the purple cleaner/primer doesn't state ABS on the label, so don't know if it'll work on fairings as well. Plus you don't need purple stuff on your fairings. (Well, not MOST of us, anyway)
Ryan McCollum
Tulsa, OK
'89 FJ1200 White & Silver
'90 Yamaha Venture Royale

"I visited a scientist who had a helmet with magnetic fields controlled by computer sequences that could profoundly affect your mood and your perceptions."
-Douglas Trumbull

RichBaker

Quote from: soundmindryan on May 02, 2012, 09:21:14 AM
Quote from: FJTillDeath on May 02, 2012, 09:09:47 AM
With regards to the impact driver - is it safe to use on the carbs? All the places I asked said it may crack something and that would be a nightmare... So in place of an impact driver would using a normal hammer(or is a rubber hammer better?) substitute in aid with the penetrant(I cant stop giggling at that stuff)

We

Is this the impact driver you all are referring to? I think this kind will provide gentler results than an air or electric powered impact gun.

Just sayin...

Yep.... That's the one.   Also, the "phillips" screws used on these are JIS, Japanese Industrial Standard, and that's why most drivers ruin the screw head. I read in a vintage bike mag that any Phillips driver can be made a JIS by grinding a small flat on the tip, so it seats into the screw better...
Rich Baker - NRA Life, AZCDL, Trail Riders of S. AZ. , AMA Life, BRC, HEAT Dirt Riders, SAMA....
Tennessee Squire
90 FJ1200, 03 WR450F ;8^P

flips

Some general info on removing stuck/broken/stripped screws/bolts....

http://www.motorcycle.com/how-to/how-to-extract-stuck-screws-3440.html

Cheers :drinks:

Jeff P
Stay rubber side down.

FJTillDeath

Thanks everyone for the tips, I dint have time much in the last 2 days as I was busy on the forks and had an exam to write (its bad when you are studying the FJ manual instead of study material)

Anyway, I tried the acetone mixture last night and sprayed it liberally onto the carbs. I am working til 9 tonight so will only get a chance tomorrow to work on them, but will spray some more mixture on for good measure. I will try the flat skrewdrive idea and then Davids idea since he is the expert on carbs :wacko1:

Oh I also bought some replacement stainless steel screws as I wasnt sure if randys kit catered for the screwsholding the carbs together
Life behind bars - is actually quite thrilling

miked

Quote from: FJTillDeath on May 04, 2012, 01:02:07 AM

Oh I also bought some replacement stainless steel screws as I wasn't sure if randys kit catered for the screwsholding the carbs together

Hi Jesse,
Randy's kit does have those screws, so you will have some spares.
Just remember to take it easy when your trying to get the old ones out. I was lucky, mine all had buggered heads, but the screws themselves weren't that tight.
Just my opinion though, you would be better off trying to get them loose, by giving then a "slight" tap with a hammer to shock them (sorry i can't describe it any better), then use a small pair of pointed nose multigrips and try to turn them. You might have to go backwards and forwards a few times, but I think you will find it much easier than cutting slots, etc. Just my 2c worth.
Cheers
Mike

FJTillDeath

Quote from: miked on May 04, 2012, 05:03:30 AM
Quote from: FJTillDeath on May 04, 2012, 01:02:07 AM
Just my opinion though, you would be better off trying to get them loose, by giving then a "slight" tap with a hammer to shock them (sorry i can't Mike

Believe me I did try tapping them with a hammer head, actually I knocked the hell out of them... :dash1: Im sure the penetrating oil will do its job along with the right kind of tapping...
Life behind bars - is actually quite thrilling

SlowOldGuy

Quote from: FJTillDeath on May 04, 2012, 01:02:07 AM
I will try the flat skrewdrive idea and then Davids idea since he is the expert on carbs :wacko1:

Actually, my technique is a SHARP punch that will dig into the side of the screw head when hitting it with a hammer in the counterclockwise (loosening) direction.

Also, those new impact drill/drivers also work good at this.  But unless you need one for other things, it's an expensive option compared to a $2 punch.

DavidR.

FJTillDeath

Update!

Carbs seperated easily after penetrating oil!.

Carbs rebuilt, orings were in crappy condition!

Put carbs back together. all good.

Just havent had a chance to balance/ sync them cos I dont have the tool
Life behind bars - is actually quite thrilling

FJTillDeath

WRT the acetone.

I managed to find 100 percent pure concentrate acetone, mighty strong stuff - though I didnt actually need to use it. One of the warnings on the bottle says may be fatal if inhaled :wacko3:

My only question is why they put it in a plastic bottle as the stuff leaks out when on its side! :scratch_one-s_head:
Life behind bars - is actually quite thrilling