Fork seal leaking

[sovrin]

I had a helper pushing down real hard to keep the axle nut in place but still to no avail.  I am going to have to make something.  Something taller so I can depress the dampener adjuster down low, allowing me to set in farther for better grip.  It is really stubborn.  Probably hasn't been removed in a loooong time.

[soundmindryan]

Run the adjusters down all the way in order to get as deep engagement of the bolt into the cap. I used a 3/4" bolt and ground the edges of the hex head to fit the cap. I think that you can get a more close fit of the tool by doing it this way. Patience, grasshopper. You can get it.

[FJmonkey]

Run the adjusters down all the way in order to get as deep engagement of the bolt into the cap. I used a 3/4" bolt and ground the edges of the hex head to fit the cap. I think that you can get a more close fit of the tool by doing it this way. Patience, grasshopper. You can get it.

My tool was a 3/4 x 3" bolt with the hex ground down and tapered using a belt sander. Then ViceGrips to hold it and a PVC cap over the threaded end of the bolt so I could push down with one hand and turn with the other. Cost me about $5 USD for the parts.

[sovrin]

Just got back from the store.  Have a 3/4" bolt in hand.  I will try to grind it down to a good fit.  I also got two 3/4" nuts and a lock washer to go between.  I'm going to try to  run the two nuts tightly together on the threaded portion of the bolt, maybe I can get a wrench on that.

[soundmindryan]

I can't stand the suspense!

[sovrin]

Made the homemade tool, got the first cap off.  Pulled out from top the long D rod and spring with washer.  Thats all that comes out the top right?
Draining oil, slid dust wipe up and removed retaining clip.  Am I ready to try to pull the sliders off the bottom? Or do I have to take that allen bolt out of the very bottom?  remember, I am just going to do seals, not rebuild all the guts.

[soundmindryan]

Yes. Take out the fork spring from the tube and compress the forks to the bottom of the stroke. Hex bolt comes out of bottom. That frees the tubes to come out. The home-made bolt tool fits down in the tube and engages into the damping rod to hold it while you loosen the lower allen bolt. You'll have to use a socket and long extension.  Read the file "Early FJ Fork and Front Wheel Upgrade" in the "Files" section. It gives you step by step instructions and parts diagrams. There's not much to it. Take your time and don't get rushed.

[SlowOldGuy]

Be sure to REMOVE the DAMPER ROD LOCATING BOLT at the bottom rear of the fork slider so you don't destroy it when removing the damper rod bolt.   If the damper rod spins, it will bend the locating bolt and that's not good.

DavidR.

"There is no spoon"

[soundmindryan]

Be sure to REMOVE the DAMPER ROD LOCATING BOLT at the bottom rear of the fork slider so you don't destroy it when removing the damper rod bolt.   If the damper rod spins, it will bend the locating bolt and that's not good.

DavidR.

"There is no spoon"

Yes Yes Yes. Sorry I missed THAT one. phillips head screw, bottom rear.
Thank you, SlowOldGuy!

"Then you'll see that it is not the spoon that bends...It is only yourself."

[FJmonkey]

Be sure to REMOVE the DAMPER ROD LOCATING BOLT at the bottom rear of the fork slider so you don't destroy it when removing the damper rod bolt.   If the damper rod spins, it will bend the locating bolt and that's not good.

DavidR.

"There is no spoon"

The other Philips screw at the bottom is a drain screw, use it. If you are removing the bolt in the bottom, now would be good time a good time drain them. This way they don't puke all over the place when you don't expect it. If the oil has been in their for some time it will be black like crude oil and really stink. Better to catch it in a bucket than wiping it up after a big spill.....

[sovrin]

I had to stop a few hours ago and will resume tomorrow.  I did remove the locator screw, thanks OLDGUY.

I have not been able to free the allen bolt from the bottom yet, I have to get a 10mm allen bit to work with impact.

Once I get that done, I'm ready to separate them.  Wow, so much to do just to get to the stinkin oil seals.

I know the history of the anti-dive is pretty useless from what everybody says, but should I check it out somehow while

the forks are off?  I wouldn't know what to check for?

By the way, you guys are all so helpful and you are making this more enjoyable.  Everybody is so willing to help out, I really

appreciate it.

[SlowOldGuy]

I assumed he was smart enough to drain the forks first

This would be a good time to disable the anti-dive by drilling 2 5/16 holes in the damper rod above the step and 90 degrees to the 2 holes that are below the step.

And it's SlowOldGuy. :-)

DavidR.

[sovrin]

My bad SlowOldGuy, but you were pretty quick to notice!

[FJmonkey]

This would be a good time to disable the anti-dive by drilling 2 5/16 holes in the damper rod above the step and 90 degrees to the 2 holes that are below the step.
DavidR.

I saw this yesterday, it saves some weight and no drilling.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-FJ1100-FJ1200-fork-anti-dive-block-off-plates-/251037114979?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a72fa6263&vxp=mtr

[SlowOldGuy]

My bad SlowOldGuy, but you were pretty quick to notice!

The "Slow" doesn't apply to everything!

Monkey, if the damper rods are already out, drilling is FREE and doesn't require waiting on the postman

DavidR