Simlpe! Removing headlamp bulb.

[ELIMINATOR]

I thought that I would see what voltage the bulb is getting. I'm going to add some spotlights, so if the volts are low, I'll be adding a relay.

The bulb removal doesn't seem any different from my 900 Diversion. I squat in front of the bike, easy access, but:

"Remove connector" :lafflots: it does not seem to want to come off. Also it has a flap fitted? I don't know what that is meant to do, I'm loathe to pull to hard, in case I break something.

What am I doing wrong?

[ELIMINATOR]

The manual says to remove the connector first, it honestly feels like I will break something!

So instead I removed the rubber cover from its housing (identical to my XJ900S Diverion, called a SECA in the US?) unclipped the bulb, but I can't get the bulb out, as the rubber housing is in the way' and stops the clip from clearing the bulb.

Jeez, I can do the Divvy in about 3 minutes Not Fair

To say the connector block is tight, is an understatement, I've got the Haynes manual. Why is nothing straightforward?

[markmartin]

The connector should just slide straight back.  I'm not sure why its so tight, maybe just corrosion.  I've found that this job becomes a lot easier if you remove the horn first, assuming that your horn is mounted below the headlight as the stock design has it.  Then the plastic three prong female connector will pull straight back and out.  Next there is a large round rubber shroud that needs to be pulled off.  There is a finger catch at the bottom of the rubber shroud to get you started.  Lastly, there is a hinged spring clip that needs to be released.  I can't remember which side it is hinged from, but IIRC,by pushing in on this spring clip it will release and swing out of the way.  This hinged spring clip is what's holding the bulb in place.  


If your thinking about adding extra lights, there are some good links and threads that can be found using the search forum on this site.

I just upgraded the wire harness with this: Eastern Beaver --  H4 Single with Driving Lights Lead  
http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Products/H4_Kits/h4_kits.html
As stated before on this forum, you'll be happy with the results.

I used these brand driving lights.
http://www.martinfabrication.com/Martin_Fabrication/Motorcycle_Driving_LIghts.html
They come with a wire harness that has an remote on / off button.  I used the remote switch in conjunction with the Eastern Beaver harness with the option of driving lights switched to the high beam.  This way I have the option of low beam, high beam or high beam with driving lights. I opted for the halogen 45watt bulbs and they are OK,  but the HID would probably be better, but more $$.

I can post some pics later.

[ELIMINATOR]

markmartin:

I have an aftermarket horn, operated via a relay. This is located on the crash bars, so at least i don't have that to contend with.

Was there a noticeable difference with the relay fitted to your headlight?

[markmartin]

Was there a noticeable difference with the relay fitted to your headlight?

Yes.  Night and day.  Pun intended.

[terryk]

I thought that I would see what voltage the bulb is getting. I'm going to add some spotlights, so if the volts are low, I'll be adding a relay.

The bulb removal doesn't seem any different from my 900 Diversion. I squat in front of the bike, easy access, but:

"Remove connector" :lafflots: it does not seem to want to come off. Also it has a flap fitted? I don't know what that is meant to do, I'm loathe to pull to hard, in case I break something.

What am I doing wrong?

Unbolt the horn and move it out of the way. Pull the socket off the bulb. Take off the boot. Unclip the bulb retainer. Done. Hint - spray a little wd-40 or bike cleaner on the inside lip of the rubber boot before putting back on the headlight assembly. Slides right on, no drama. Note: The bike will cook wires on the headlight connecor. If so, you will find the need to take off the fairing to have enough room to replace wirs and connector as prudent/needed. Also note - be very cautious when putting the norn back, the vibrations on the horn bracket will make this saw through the brake hose if they touch, just make sure you isolate this bracket from the other stuff. I can do this job as described above with my 2 XL mitts.

[andyb]

Hint - spray a little wd-40 or bike cleaner on the inside lip of the rubber boot before putting back on the headlight assembly. Slides right on, no drama.

Use tire mounting lubricant.  Designed for rubber and works great...

[terryk]

Hint - spray a little wd-40 or bike cleaner on the inside lip of the rubber boot before putting back on the headlight assembly. Slides right on, no drama.

Use tire mounting lubricant.  Designed for rubber and works great...

Or KY Jelly, designed for rubber as well.

[ELIMINATOR]

Pull the socket off the bulb.

  That's the problem, it's stuck solid.

Already had the rubber boot off, and easily fitted again.

I've sprayed the connector with WD40 let it soak, try another day.

[terryk]

Pull the socket off the bulb.

  That's the problem, it's stuck solid.

Already had the rubber boot off, and easily fitted again.

I've sprayed the connector with WD40 let it soak, try another day.

Yikes, that does not sound good. Corrosion and/or melting of the connector seems a possibility.

My headlight bulb connector melted a while back taking out the low beam connection. Corrosion, resistance, heat, melted plastic connector.

Needed to disassemble the fairing to get at the connector and wires to cut out the old connector and wires and put a new one in line.

Good luck.

[markmartin]

I'm sorry to hear that you're having a problem getting the connector disconnected. If it's any consolation, if you do decide to go with a direct harness and relay to the light, you can forget having to disconnect the bulb, just mark the wires to record their location, and cut the wires to the connector. You'll be able to hard wire your cut wires to your new harness / relay.  It is the preferred way of connecting your ex sisting wires to the new relay anyway.  It's explained pretty well (if I could understand it, believe me, it's explained well!) in the directions should you go with the ready for installation, Eastern Beaver set up.

Mark

[ELIMINATOR]

Success the connector slid off easily tonight.

Only 11.08 volts found here, the missing volts between the 12.45 battery, have yet to be accounted for

Looks like I'm going the route of adding relays to the lights.

[rktmanfj]

Success the connector slid off easily tonight.

Only 11.08 volts found here, the missing volts between the 12.45 battery, have yet to be accounted for

Looks like I'm going the route of adding relays to the lights.

It's lost in the switch and all the thin (and old) wiring... that's why you need the relays.