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dungy grey carb bodies after cleaning

Started by bigbore2, March 07, 2012, 02:43:01 PM

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bigbore2

Is there a way to lighten up the metal, more like when carbs are new, like a dip or something?  I know Scotch-Brite pads or pumice stone or bead blasting will clean them up but I am not after a polished look, just a lighter metal color.  A local plating shop said that he thought that magnesium is used in the aluminum and chemical dips don't work.

Dads_FJ

You thinking of soda blasting?  As in baking soda: http://www.aircooledtech.com/tools-on-the-cheap/soda_blaster/

I like it over sand blasting because you can rinse with water and not worry about any sand entering your engine.
John S.

'84 Yamaha FJ1100
'89 Yamaha FJ1200
'94 Yamaha WR250
'80 BMW R100S/Sidecar
'39 BSA WM20

WhiteBeard

Quote from: Dads_FJ on March 07, 2012, 03:22:24 PM
You thinking of soda blasting?  As in baking soda: http://www.aircooledtech.com/tools-on-the-cheap/soda_blaster/

I like it over sand blasting because you can rinse with water and not worry about any sand entering your engine.

Wow, looks like a nice idea!
But I guess I would think twice before using it on any carb insides...  :unknown:

racerrad8

If the carb have turn a dark grey the wrong cleaner was used. The soda blast method is about the only way to get them back to the original look. I have rebuild many sets for members of this forum and when they get them back they always comment, they look like new.

I cannot do anything about the gold coating on the steel parts, but when cleaning the correct cleaner the carbs look like brand new.

I would recommend a full disassembly before soda blasting and then having them ultrasonic cleaned to ensure the soda has all been removed.

Here is a set of carbs I have just cleaned compared to a set that were on a customers car when he brought it in. I took this photo to document the poor filtering quality of the K&N air filter.


Randy -RPM

Randy - RPM

RichBaker

Randy, what is the correct cleaner for an ultrasonic cleaner with carbs?
Rich Baker - NRA Life, AZCDL, Trail Riders of S. AZ. , AMA Life, BRC, HEAT Dirt Riders, SAMA....
Tennessee Squire
90 FJ1200, 03 WR450F ;8^P

racerrad8

It must be for non-ferrous metals. The cleaner I use was specifically listed for aluminum and coated metals, i.e. the anodized covers. It does not work very good on ferrous items.

I runs a little more than $60.00 a gallon and lasts me about a year.

Randy - RPM
Randy - RPM

ally

there was a guy on a forum here in the uk that used cillit bang household cleaner (you get it there?) to clean up his carbs

the before and after was amazing

I've tried to find a link to show but cannot remember the url

:)

Harvy

Quote from: ally on March 08, 2012, 04:01:28 AM
there was a guy on a forum here in the uk that used cillit bang household cleaner (you get it there?) to clean up his carbs

the before and after was amazing

I've tried to find a link to show but cannot remember the url

:)

Its called "easy-off BAM" in Australia, USA and Canada.

Harvy
FJZ1 1200 - It'll do me just fine.
Timing has much to do with the success of a rain dance.

Dan Filetti

Live hardy, or go home. 

bigbore2

I have only cleaned the float bowl housings, not the carb body yet, so I listed that wrong but carb body's
can still be done correctly.  Ok, I used the boiling hot water with some Oxi-Clean, so I would not recommend that method.  I got that info. off this site somewhere and wanted to try it because it was the most non-toxic approach.