Clutch master cylinder

[rktmanfj]

I went through the same thing last June... I rebuilt the master, then saw that I also needed to rebuild the slave (couldn't tell before I had a good master ).

It took a few days of bleeding to get all the air out of the system each time I had it open, but I finally got it good enough to work. However, I was puzzled most of the summer by the fact that whenever I rode it, I'd get air back in the line, and I couldn't find the leak. I finally figured out that I hadn't put enough sealant on the two long bolts that hold the slave on (I'd used a little, on the threaded part, but apparently not enough).

If you had the slave off to check it, you probably need to reseal those two bolts. I used Permatex # 2, two smallish beads 180* apart all down the length of each bolt, then twisted each bolt as I slowly put it back in to spread the sealant around the diameter of the hole. Thus far, that has seemed to work.

HTH...


Cheers, and the duck says, "Kookaloo!"

Hmmm... sealant on the slave cylinder bolts.

That's a new one on me.

David, how long has it been since Keith and I had our slave cylinder rebuild race in Boone?

I guess I won because I skipped a step.     

Randy T
Indy

[threejagsteve]

Hmmm... sealant on the slave cylinder bolts.

That's a new one on me.

David, how long has it been since Keith and I had our slave cylinder rebuild race in Boone?

I guess I won because I skipped a step.     

Randy T
Indy

FWIW, it's in the book... and doing it seems to have cured my slow leak. 

[Dan Filetti]

Hmmm... sealant on the slave cylinder bolts.

FWIW, it's in the book... and doing it seems to have cured my slow leak. 

??  Not to quibble, but how does sealant, on bolts OUTSIDE of a closed system 'cure' a leak within it?  Maybe sealant around the outside perimeter of the slave would keep the leaking fluid from dripping out (and ruining the paint), but the bolts?

When I did my slave, as I said it was a close system, you can remove those three bolts and the slave comes free and will hang by the hydraulic line all day without leaking, if the seal is good.  This can all be done without bleeding the system. 

Anyone have any guesses as to how Steve was able to fix a leaky slave by applying sealant to the bolts?

Scrathin' my head.

Dan

[Marsh White]

I was wondering the exact same thing....   wtf??   

[Mark Olson]

it was magic.

For those of you having bleeding problems there is another way.
no vac pump
no syringe
less mess

simply open the bleeder first,then pull the lever,while lever is in the  pulled in position close bleeder.
release the  lever.
repeat until fluid comes out of the bleeder.
when a steady stream comes out of the bleeder, you may now bleed normally.

normally means.
tube over bleeder into jar of  fluid.
pull lever and hold ,open  bleeder and watch for bubbles,close bleeder and release lever.
repeat as needed.

of course keep reservoir from going dry.

this method takes 2-3 minutes and you are ready to ride.
 

[56 CHEVY]

The same way I have always done it. I use a clear hose so I can see the bubbles. Always worked for me without fail.

[threejagsteve]

Hmmm... sealant on the slave cylinder bolts.

FWIW, it's in the book... and doing it seems to have cured my slow leak. 

??  Not to quibble, but how does sealant, on bolts OUTSIDE of a closed system 'cure' a leak within it?  Maybe sealant around the outside perimeter of the slave would keep the leaking fluid from dripping out (and ruining the paint), but the bolts?

When I did my slave, as I said it was a close system, you can remove those three bolts and the slave comes free and will hang by the hydraulic line all day without leaking, if the seal is good.  This can all be done without bleeding the system. 

Anyone have any guesses as to how Steve was able to fix a leaky slave by applying sealant to the bolts?

Scrathin' my head.

Dan

I'll be damned if I know why it worked either... but it IS on p. 5-25 of the manual, and it DOES seem to have worked.

[wavygravy]

I rebuilt my slave cylinder this summer.I tried to bleed it with a syringe from the slave cylinder but nothing worked so I approched the probleme diffrentely, I inject the fluid into the system with the syringe from the slave cylinder so all the bubbles went up into the reservoir, moving the lever a little so that no air would be in the master cylinder and it worked!!! never touched it since.

Alain

this little tip did the trick for me ! after fanning the clutch lever & turning the bleeder a million times, bubbles came up in res , then let go of clutch, pressure buildup-resistance & shazam ive got clutch!! & i didnt even seal the bolts!

[Ned]

FWIW and I know it's a little late but you could save yourself vast amounts of time simply by reverse filling the system to start with. The Yamaha clutch master piston assembly has a squiffy little archimedes screw in it that holds lots of air. Air bubbles rise not fall unless you're using the special anti-gravity fluid. It's one hell of a lot easier to push the bubbles back up than suck or push them all the way through the master system and down the line and through the slave and out the bleeder. And the only equipment you'll need is a squeezy bottle or big syringe with a short tube to connect it to the bleed screw. Drain the old fluid out first. Wrap some teflon tape around the bleed screw, leave it open about one and a half turns. Remove the master reservoir lid. Attach bottle to bleed screw and squeeze gently until the fluid appears in the master reservoir. pull the lever in a few times and squeeze until no more bubbles come out. You may have to siphon a bit of fluid out of the reservoir if it gets too full...DON"T let it overflow on your lovely paintwork. No bleeding required, works every time, costs almost nothing and ensures you have clean fluid in the system because addnig new fluid to old fluid of unknown origin is not the best. I use an old shampoo bottle and a bit of neoprene tube.

This topic came up with monotonous regularity on the old Yahoo group and I posted pics and description way back. It works on cars and anything else hydraulic too

Ned

[JimmyD]

Ted is absolutly correct! I know I'm a newbie here, but, I'm also an ASE Master Automotive Tech. Force bleeding any hyd. system from the bottom pushes the air up which is where it wants to go anyway. I rebuilt my clutch slave and master not long ago and used a small syringe to "bleed" the system, 10 min. tops, ready to ride.

[Kopfjaeger]

went through a similar thing, slave cylinder leaking had no clutch from tenterfield to newcastle, went to yamaha shop after i pulled the seal out, was told is a whole unit!!! to replace, got a bit upset at them and then rang round everywhere, the 1200 will take 1100 seals for it but the slave cylinder will need resleeving, hear its a stainless steel sleeve and that it has to be machined out ( no wukkas give me a lathe) had no troubles bleeding it and is ok to fairly good will not hold  a full resevoir of fluid it will squirt it out, but about half to 3/4 full it works. bodgy i know but funds at the moment are low. will fix it when im richer ( tho bikes make me poorer) one day i will strip the thing clean polish and clean clean clean and replace. now is the time to buy stocks in autosol 

[Arnie]

Kopfjaeger,

OK, first lesson..... Do NOT believe ANYTHING a dealer tells you.  They lie.

There is a rebuild kit from Yamaha that contains the 2 seals for the slave.  You can get the part number from:  http://www.yamahasportsplaza.com/pages/parts/viewbybrand/default.aspx

Also Randy (rpm@swaybar.com) I think that's his email, is a list member and has a slave rebuild kit that contains the seals and the spring.  See suppliers list for more info.

2nd lesson..... Buy your genuine Yamaha parts from US suppliers.  The price will be about 40% cheaper AFTER paying for airmail delivery and you'll get it quickere.

Cheers,
Arnie

[SlowOldGuy]

The slave cylinder is NOT a stainless steel sleeve.  It's just aluminum.  Clean up any corrosion in the bore with 320 to 600 grit then polish with metal polish.  Also remove any rust from the piston.

DavidR.