hydraulic clutch

[moonrunnah]

It is time to pull the clutch cover and pressure plate to see if the ball is still in there. After you remove the pressure plate and the center hub push rod you will be able to see if the ball is still there.

If you cannot see out the other side it is still in there; if you can see through the shaft to the other side of the engine it is on your floor somewhere.

I do have plenty if you need one, but you will need to make sure it is gone before you install another or the clutch will never engage...

Randy - RPM

okay thanks i wont be able to get to it until Tuesday morning but i will let you know when i do
is it a involved process to get the cover and pressure plate off


Thanks again   

[moonrunnah]

There should be a wear mark on the pushrod. Does it look like it still lines up?  I know several owners who have started their motor with the slave off, shot the pushrod out and did not lose the ball.

If it has sat for awhile, the clutch plates may be stuck together thus making the clutch seem like it's not working correctly.  Put it back together, if you have clutch pressure, put it in gear, pull the clutch and rock the bike back and forth to try and break the plates loose.

If that doesn't work then start taking things apart

DavidR.

wher would the mark line up?
(ther is a blueish line) on the rod where would it line up if it is engaged/ disengaged

[SlowOldGuy]

The pushrod spends most of its life in the "unpushed" position.  As such, chain goo usually builds up in this position.  Some of it gets wiped off during use, but not all.  So, you should have 2 discernable lines on the pushrod.  If you install the pushrod, does it go in past the first gunk line?  If so, then the ball may have fallen out.  If it appears to line up with the goo line, then maybe the ball is still there.

Again, try manually breaking the clutch plates loose before you go into a teardown panic.
Do the easy things first.

DavidR.

[moparman70]

Just a tip on bleeding -- to check if you have got all the air out -- with the slave off push on the piston slowly in ( With the reservoir cap off and bleeder screw tight ) and look to see if any air bubbles surface ( cover all areas to protect from brake fluid just in case).

If no air then you are good -- and you should be able to slightly pull back on the handle and the piston should move out ...just a little squeeze to see movement don't yank the thing.

I had the same thing happen and I did start ( just a pulse not a full start)  without the slave but just popped the rod back in and all worked so luckily I didn't loose the ball.

I found bleeding difficult at first as I had empty lines but the reverse bleeding work best to remove all the air.

Initially, I did have bad seals on my slave and the pressure would build and then fade... upon inspection I could see excess fluid on the exhaust.

Stevecc

[moonrunnah]

Just a tip on bleeding -- to check if you have got all the air out -- with the slave off push on the piston slowly in ( With the reservoir cap off and bleeder screw tight ) and look to see if any air bubbles surface ( cover all areas to protect from brake fluid just in case).

If no air then you are good -- and you should be able to slightly pull back on the handle and the piston should move out ...just a little squeeze to see movement don't yank the thing.

I had the same thing happen and I did start ( just a pulse not a full start)  without the slave but just popped the rod back in and all worked so luckily I didn't loose the ball.

I found bleeding difficult at first as I had empty lines but the reverse bleeding work best to remove all the air.

Initially, I did have bad seals on my slave and the pressure would build and then fade... upon inspection I could see excess fluid on the exhaust.

Stevecc

it does not seem to be leaking by the slave cylinder
im goning to try to bench bleed the master then the lines then slave and if there is no leaking and i still dont get pressure im guessing im going to have to rebuild the master cylinder

thank you moparman and david r.

i will let you guys know more on tuesday when i can actually get to the bike  (unexpected snow up here in maine)

[weymouth399]

Where in Maine are you? There are a few of us on here, in Maine, that might be able to help you.

Bob W

[Pat Conlon]

Clutch bleeding, especially starting from a dry system is a pain in the ass.

1 word: Mityvac.  Should be in every tool box. It makes it soooo much easier. $36 from Harbor Freight

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?category=&q=mityvac&hft_adv=10062&gclid=CJ2I0_2MuK4CFU2b7QodjQ0mOA

[rktmanfj]

Fill the slave prior to bolting it on.

Then, with the line unbolted at the slave end, fill the m/c until fluid comes out the bottom end of the line, then bolt it up.

There will be very little air to bleed out.

Yeah, it takes a bit more care to keep the fluid off the paint, but the bleeding is easy.  Only takes a few minutes.

If you use DOT 5, it doesn't matter anyway.     

[Travis398]

There should be a wear mark on the pushrod. Does it look like it still lines up?  I know several owners who have started their motor with the slave off, shot the pushrod out and did not lose the ball.

DavidR.

This happened to me, the bike leaned over on the kick stand. I started it up and it shot the rod out and pissed oil all over my leg.

When I put the clutch rod back in I noticed the seal marking on the rod lined up to the normal place (as David said)

The ball stayed in place and my pants were soaked with oil. 

[moonrunnah]

Where in Maine are you? There are a few of us on here, in Maine, that might be able to help you.

Bob W

South paris maine most of the time

[moonrunnah]

Clutch bleeding, especially starting from a dry system is a pain in the ass.

1 word: Mityvac.  Should be in every tool box. It makes it soooo much easier. $36 from Harbor Freight

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?category=&q=mityvac&hft_adv=10062&gclid=CJ2I0_2MuK4CFU2b7QodjQ0mOA

yes i do need to get one i think my dad has one i can borrow

[Derek Young]

+1 on checking the lines on the pushrod.  I started mine once without the slave on.  the pushrod shot across the floor and I assumed the bearing did as well.  The bike was apart for a couple months for other projects, so I bought another ball bearing from my Yamaha dealer and plopped it in.  Clutch definitely does not function with 2 of them in there.   All could have been avoided if i had used my head and opened my eyes.

Derek

[moonrunnah]

+1 on checking the lines on the pushrod.  I started mine once without the slave on.  the pushrod shot across the floor and I assumed the bearing did as well.  The bike was apart for a couple months for other projects, so I bought another ball bearing from my Yamaha dealer and plopped it in.  Clutch definitely does not function with 2 of them in there.   All could have been avoided if i had used my head and opened my eyes.

Derek

i do have the ball in there and with the bike off i can put it in gear pull the clutch in (i do have pressure now although im not sure its enough) and roll the bike. how ever when i start the bike pull the clutch in and kick it in to gear it stalls. what would cause this do i have enough pressure in the clutch or is it too little and the oil powered rod pushing the piston back in to the slave cylinder?

[rktmanfj]

i do have the ball in there and with the bike off i can put it in gear pull the clutch in (i do have pressure now although im not sure its enough) and roll the bike. how ever when i start the bike pull the clutch in and kick it in to gear it stalls. what would cause this do i have enough pressure in the clutch or is it too little and the oil powered rod pushing the piston back in to the slave cylinder?

Is the sidestand down?

[FJmonkey]

i do have the ball in there and with the bike off i can put it in gear pull the clutch in (i do have pressure now although im not sure its enough) and roll the bike. how ever when i start the bike pull the clutch in and kick it in to gear it stalls. what would cause this do i have enough pressure in the clutch or is it too little and the oil powered rod pushing the piston back in to the slave cylinder?

Make sure the side stand is up when you kick it into gear. If it was down the side stand switch killed the ignition as a built in safety feature. On the other hand, if the clutch plates are really stuck or you cannot get enough disengagement, an idling engine will stall and the bike will buck a little as the engine tries to move the bike forward. Try it again with the bike on the center stand (side stand up) and see if it spins the rear wheel. If it spins and the use of the rear brake stalls the engine then you will need to figure out which of the two issues you have. With the ignition off, the bike in gear and the clutch pulled in, rock the bike forward and back till it feels like it hit something and stops. This will nudge stuck plates loose. If this does not knock the plates loose then you need to make sure the clutch is properly bleed.

Did you rebuild the master by chance?