Is the oil filter full all the time?

[X-Ray]

Sorry, bit of a weird question. I just did a oil change with new filter, but I didn't change the o-ring on the standard Yamaha housing. I should have because now whenever I ride the bike, oil is weeping out at a decent rate. But only when the bike is running. So, can I get away with just whipping the filter housing off and changing the o-ring, or do I have to drain the whole sump again? I'm just not sure if the oil level covers the filter housing at rest.

Thanks

Ray

[ribbert]

Sorry, bit of a weird question. I just did a oil change with new filter, but I didn't change the o-ring on the standard Yamaha housing. I should have because now whenever I ride the bike, oil is weeping out at a decent rate. But only when the bike is running. So, can I get away with just whipping the filter housing off and changing the o-ring, or do I have to drain the whole sump again? I'm just not sure if the oil level covers the filter housing at rest.

Thanks

Ray

Chances are very high that you have pinched the wire that runs above and behind the filter housing. It's a common thing to do (I've done it but you only get caught once).  I have left those O rings on for 3 or 4 oil changes.  If it is seated in the groove and it was new last oil change it won't be leaking because you didn't change it.
Noel

[X-Ray]

Thanks Noel, I made sure I had those wires well out of the way when reseating it. When I think of it, I've only replaced the o-ring maybe once or twice in the time I've owned the FJ, so its a good chance that it desperately needs replacing.

I just went out into the shed and measured 33cm from floor level to the top of my sight glass on the RH side. On the oil filter side 33cm is about 2cm up the filter housing, so I might drain a litre, or even prop the bike over on the sidestand a bit so I can remove the housing. I should have replaced the o-ring in the first place.  Will be ordering one of Randys spin on jobs soon!

[Arnie]

X-Ray,

Do you have some way to lean the bike over to the right while you then remove the filter housing?
You wouldn't have to lean it more than 10-15 deg for the oil level to not reach the housing.
I'd think that a solid overhead beam and some nylon straps should suffice - maybe backed up with some jackstands.
This would also let you see the area clearly.

Cheers,
Arnie

[racerrad8]

The oil filter housing drains down to the level of the return hole in the block.

So, you will only loose about half of the housing volume.

Randy - RPM

[SlowOldGuy]

Isn't the oil filter pressurized?  If so, then it should not drain back into the sump. It should be on the pressure side of the pump which should prevent it from draining?

Otherwise, wouldn't the pump be trying to pressurize the entire crankcase?

DavidR.

[racerrad8]

Isn't the oil filter pressurized?  If so, then it should not drain back into the sump. It should be on the pressure side of the pump which should prevent it from draining?

Otherwise, wouldn't the pump be trying to pressurize the entire crankcase?

DavidR.

It looses pressure as soon as the engine is shut down and gravity takes over.

But, after your question you made me take a good look at a case on the bench and I cannot see a point where it will leak down through bearings. The only place I can see where the oil can leak down id through the internal clearances of the oil pump. The oil can leak past & through the rotors and back into the sump.

So, since I do not have one installed anymore, someone is going to have to take theirs off and measure the amount of oil that comes out of it, compared to the volume it holds with a filter to determine if it stays full or seeks the level of the center bolt after shut down.

I am going with the latter...

Thanks for making me take a harder look, I was working from memory...

Randy - RPM

[SlowOldGuy]

Randy,
Yes, the pressure only exists when the motor (and pump) is running.

I agree that oil might leak past clearance in the pump.  But it should be very slow (especially if the oil is cold). 

It won't come pouring directly out of the crankcase when he removes the canister.

DavidR.

[X-Ray]

Thanks everyone, some thoughtful discussion going on there. But yes Arnie, that what I'm going to do. Lean the bike over enough and support it so I can quickly replace the o-ring and hopefully not lose much oil.

Have to get everything ready for next Friday!    Just spent a couple of hours grinding/shaping the new alloy clutch lever I bought to make it fit properly. The brake side is fine, but the clutch lever, *groan*. These levers are chunkier than the standard ones and help my slightly arthritic fingers pull in the clutch easier. (Plus they are pretty anodized blue, match the R1 brake pots  )