oil cooler, levers, shock and forks

[Tengu]

Well things are starting happen finally,
I have a Penske 8983 on order and I seriously cant wait! Anything I should know about the change over process?

I want to see if I can sweeten up the front forks as they feel a bit soft, any suggestions?
Should I leave the forks until after the shock is exchanged?

Summer has well and truly started here in Queensland and the old girl really does not like coming home in the traffic - I like my girl hot, just not that hot! Randy are you any closer to a large plug and play oil cooler? Im really at the point where it is a must addon... Im willing to spend the $ right now to make this better

My front brake doesnt quite begin to bite until I pull the lever in to half way... its not soft at that point, so I dont believe it to be the fluids.
I have looked for another adjustment screws (its currently in full) but the screw thread is at a 0.7 pitch and I cant get them in Australia, at least not at the smaller diameter of the adjustment screw - any ideas?
Im also intereste in some prettier levers than just the stock standard ones, but cant seem to find them anywhere, any clues?

[fj11.5]

When I had standard brakes, I removed the brake lever adjuster nut and fitted a small spacer

[Tengu]

yeah I thought of doing that but wasnt sure if that would allow the adjustment screw to come loose from the engine vibrations

[fj11.5]

lasted 3 years till i upgraded to an xjr master,i just used the brass bushing from an rc car,think it came from a standard motor, a stack of small washers would be perfect

[andyb]

I want to see if I can sweeten up the front forks as they feel a bit soft, any suggestions?
Should I leave the forks until after the shock is exchanged?

What year?  Later forks had stiffer springs.  The other question is what do you mean by soft?  Underdamped can feel a lot like undersprung!  You can put spacers in to increase preload, but that won't increase spring rate.  You can replace the springs with either progressively wound or straight rate.  Honestly the best answer is to start by finding out what you've got, and making sure that you've got the right amount of oil in there (as well as the right weight).  Forks are absolutely brutal on the oil, and it'll come out as just sludge after a surprisingly short time.  If you're thinking more along the lines of doing a swap, then skip spending the money on the old ones, and start researching newer ones.  Otherwise, start by making sure what you've got is as healthy as possible, and then you'll know what specific problems you want to fix with it.

My front brake doesnt quite begin to bite until I pull the lever in to half way... its not soft at that point, so I dont believe it to be the fluids.
I have looked for another adjustment screws (its currently in full) but the screw thread is at a 0.7 pitch and I cant get them in Australia, at least not at the smaller diameter of the adjustment screw - any ideas?
Im also intereste in some prettier levers than just the stock standard ones, but cant seem to find them anywhere, any clues?

Replace the master?  Drill and put a more available screw in?  Prolly best to just say fooey at it and upgrade to something that has adjustable levers.  Also check for wear at the pivot (and lubricate it while you're at it), and wear at the piston itself.  Sometimes it's just a question of wear, y`know?  As far as getting pretty levers, I suspect it depends on what you consider pretty   I'd say take a set of stockers, bend em a bit, clip them short, and powdercoat/plate them, but it's all about what you prefer!

[Tengu]

The FJ is a 90 model
I think first move is to replace the fork oil. I haven't changed it and I've had the bike for 2 years (6000 kms), suppose that's the best place to start

Not ready to change master cylinders as I recently put braided lines on and haven't done any research into how easy or hard that might be
I am happy with the brake function just a bit funny about the lever but that seems easy fixed
I had thought about powder coating some levers but wanted to check options

Thanks for all the comments

[craigo]

Not ready to change master cylinders as I recently put braided lines on and haven't done any research into how easy or hard that might be

If you can change the brake lines, changing the master cylinder is a walk in the park, just use new crush washers.  While you're at it, put a set of R1/R6 blue spot calipers on the front.  They bolt right up and are far superior than the golden OEM ones in feel and function.

Enjoy your FJ, the 3CV is the best of the breed, don't let anyone tell you otherwise.

CraigO

[Tengu]

If I change master cylinders and to blue spots, won't I have to change lines as well?

What then happens to my clutch lever... It won't match the updated brake....?

[craigo]

If I change master cylinders and to blue spots, won't I have to change lines as well?

What then happens to my clutch lever... It won't match the updated brake....?

Hey there,

If you have not changed your rubber OEM lines, do so soon.  Or, as Pat so eloquently put it, get your affairs in order.  Steel braided lines of reputable manufacturing should be installed ASAP.  As far as the master cylinders on both sides, the brake side will bring you the most rewards.  If your clutch is slipping, replace the master w/ a 14mm as well and install additional springs in your clutch.  You will be a lot happier after those 2 simple mods.

If you are worried about appearance, forget about it.  Function over form is a good thing.

It's all in the file section of your favorite FJ site.

CraigO

[Harvy]

If I change master cylinders and to blue spots, won't I have to change lines as well?

What then happens to my clutch lever... It won't match the updated brake....?

Mate.....my story and I'm sticking to it.

Not long after I bought my FJ, I switched to braided SS lines to the front brake callipers. A couple of years later, I updated the callipers to gold spots (2003 R1)....still the same braided lines. Then went from OEM master to a 2003 R1 master...still same lines. The clutch is still stock, and has the OEM clutch line still, but I am using a YZF 750 clutch master now. Rear brake is stock line, but the master banjo has been changed to a pressure switch banjo, and the rear calliper is a 2002 FZ1.

So mix and match is possible.


Harvy

[Tengu]

Braided steel lines was the first thing i did!

Thanks Harvey, sounds like something next on the list is master cylinders - I do like plug and play mods (because I only have one bike and no shed!)

I have no issues with the clutch

[srutherford]

can someone shoot me a link to the steel braided lines that will work on my 86

[hein]

can someone shoot me a link to the steel braided lines that will work on my 86

I've used Russell universal brake lines for years. You can buy the pre assembled brake lines in a variety of lenghts from 4" to 80". Add the banjo fittings or adaptors required and you end up with custom fitted brake and clutch lines.

[nvmike24]

These guys have all you'll ever need.
http://spieglerusa.com/brakes/cycle-brake-line-kits.html