Uni Pods dual foam - rejetting

[FJTillDeath]

Okay, so I have made a few plan and I have some spare cash to use this month(worked a lot of overtime)

And apart from the maintenance list I have I would like to reward and spoil my FJ. With the Uni dual foam pods from Randy's site.

I have an 85 FJ1100 bone stock(from what I can tell mechanical wise) apart from my 4 into 1 Cowley exhuast.

What all do I need to buy and do if I am to purchase these pods?

From when I spoke to Randy a month or so back he told me I would need the crankcase breather too.

So so far my list is as this:
2x Uni dual foam pods
1x Crankase breather filter

What else do I need to get and would I need to rejet? If so how do you rejet? I have never don so before and wouldnt be able to tell if its too rich or lean

Oh and incase anybody thinks I dont plan On fixing my fork leak - I do. Although I should do both would I be able to get away with just doing 1? And other than the "fork rebuild kit" from Randy what else would I need? Any idea where I can get single rate springs and would they work in the 85 1100?

[rktmanfj]

Just a few of the threads that touch on this subject... plenty more available.    


http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=4687.15

http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=1974.0

http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=3581.0

http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=3889.0

http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=4929.0

[FJTillDeath]

Just if I understand this correctly...

It looks like I will probably need to get Main jets and the secondary jet/idle jets from Randy as well. I'll also have to figure out what size jets I'll need. The problem with this is that shipping takes between 3 and 4 weeks to where I am..which is gonna suck if I get it wrong the first time.

It also means I'll need to go into the carbs to put in the new needles.. a can of worms Im not to keen for, but it will be a good learning curve..

I sent Randy an email so I'm sure he'll be able to tell me which needle sizes I'll probably need.

The last time I removed the airbox I had a helluva time trying to get the frame back in place. Can I loosen just the top skrews on the tail frame, bend it down and remove the airbox like that?

Thanks for the links, reminded me about the Files section we have. Got lotsa reading to do for the next few weeks

[rktmanfj]

Yes, you can remover the top two subframe bolts and pivot the subframe down to make room to get the airbox out.

The needles are not hard to change out at all.  You will probably want to get the nice SS screw kit if you are going into the carbs.  It has a lot of handy items for the carbs, and the SS allen head cap screws beat hell out of the stock parts.  Money (but not very much) well spent.

[SlowOldGuy]

You need to check your stock slide needles to see if they have adjustment grooves.  If so, then all you need to do is move the clip DOWN 1 groove thus pulling the needle UP and making the mixture richer.  If you don't have adjustable needles, use small washer(s) to shim the needles up about 0.5mm.

This adjustment is far more important than replacing any jets!  You can richen up the idle circuit and you rarely run on the main jet, but you spend 99% of the time riding on the needle, so it's the critical factor.

Since you've got an aftermarket exhaust, you might need to go up 2 grooves on the needle (1mm),  On the main jet, a 115 or 117.5 should be adequate.  Definitely get the #40 idle jets.

DavidR.

[FJTillDeath]

Thanks David and Randy

I phoned the dealership that fit the exhuast in just to ask what was actually used. The dealer sounded a little concerned and said I wouldnt be able to do the jetting myself as I dont have the guages and such? I didnt know I needed guages?

Um anyway, I asked him what size was used(this is the assistant speaking) and he said he is not sure off hand but I could just look at the needles in the carbs to see but then warned me against this as I may mess it up somewhat coz I dont have the pressure guage. He did mention that there are mixture skrews which they turned to set the system up. Oh and just for interest sake the dealer said it would cost 750ZAR to set the jetting(including the spares they would use)~95$..

I will get the #40 idle jet and when I see what main jet I have will get the 115 or 117.5.

[ninjamuder]

honestly, if they will do a re-jet and carb synch, (from the way im reading this) for under a hundred, for parts, AND labor.....let em do it!!!!

we charge 65per hour here in the shop for labor, and even on a fj, since they are a fairly easy bike to synch, i would quote a hour for the synch alone!!

i just looked at my labor estimator guide (auto-data) and it lists 1.55 hours to remove and replace the complete carb set, not including any dis-assembly, or transfer of sub-components......if they will do it all for 95 bux, that is a DEAL!!

[RichBaker]

Yeah, but since when do you use a "pressure gauge" to rejet carbs??  Makes me wonder how much this dealer or the assistant knows about mechaniking.....

[Pat Conlon]

Well technically vacuum is pressure...sort of...kinda like.. I do wonder what is being lost in translation between the dealer, Jesse and the forum.

[hein]

Well technically vacuum is pressure...sort of...kinda like.. I do wonder what is being lost in translation between the dealer, Jesse and the forum.
[  /quote]                                                                                                                                            Vacuum can be described as negative pressure and it makes about the same sense as an economist describing a financial loss as negative growth. As to what gets lost in translation there are a couple of reasons. Having read his numerous posts I sort of get the feeling he doesn't listen well, and add to that I suspect he is translating from afrikaans, which is most likely his first language, into english. Having had to read technical articles originally published in another language and badly translated I can sympathize.

[RichBaker]

Yep, I'd assume he's talking about syncing the carbs, using a gauge set or manometers.....

[FJTillDeath]

Yes, syncing the carbs.

@Hein, my first language is English. I did particularly well with it too.

As to what was getting lost in the translation between me and the dealer and the forum. The dealer knows I know Fuck all about bikes - putting it plainly so everyone understands. The dealer therefore tries to take me for a ride explaining things to me he knows I will not understand.

Somebody who actually knows a little about the FJs explained to me the process and showed me what the dealer was doing. I have said before that compared to this forum, the dealer knows less about an FJ than I do. Not to insult the dealer they do know what they are doing. The dealer didn't even want me to change the oil and filter myself as they were looking for more money. Because they are the only dealership in my town who can deal with this bike service wise I can't tell them I am taking my business elsewhere.

So again, sorry to the forum that people take me for a ride. In future assume that most of the time anything I say the dealer says is complete RUBBISHSHIT.

That being said. The guages needed would be a carb sync gauge and that vacuum thing you guys use to check valve clearances. 2 things I probably need to do, but I would rather buy my own instruments for roughly the same price as the labout the dealer charges.

AS said many times before, I am an idiot and im my "young dum full of cum" stage I will believe almost anybody who "knows more than me" - which is true to the forum - in my search to find out what the fuck is wrong with my bike.

Its not that I do not listen(yes I can improve on it), its that there is a lot that I dont understand and that I kept being told different things(my own fault for asking so many people -who know fuck all about the bike - my dealer)

[hein]

 

@Hein, my first language is English. I did particularly well with it too.

That being said. The guages needed would be a carb sync gauge and that vacuum thing you guys use to check valve clearances. 2 things I probably need to do, but I would rather buy my own instruments for roughly the same price as the labout the dealer charges.

     Jesse, I apologize for my assumption that English is not your first language. Judging by your posts I made a rude assumption that you were using an Afrikaans to English dictionary at times. One of the problems of the English language is that a word or expression in one country or region takes on a completely different meaning in another.Examples. Someone in England having his poppets looked at would mean having his valves checked over here. A public school in England would be considered a private school in Canada. An Austalian discussing carbies would mean a food group discussion over here. A bonnet in North America is a type of women's hat here while in England it would be a car hood.  Now that "vacuum thing" is not used to check valve clearance. Feeler gauges would be the correct tool. You'r young and full of enthusiasm, which is good,but, as a local expression goes,you'r running around like a baby bear with its first hardon. Slow down and make a list of all the problems your bike has, prioritize them and deal with  them in an orderly fashion. Set up a budget for parts and tools. Be realistic about your abilities in regards to doing your own work. Most important of all do some reading on basic 4 stroke engine theory and motorcycle maintenance. If you can't find any books locally or in a library pm me your mailing info and I'd be happy to mail you some books dealing with these topics. Information and knowledge are very powerful tools. Gooden dag, Hein

[Pat Conlon]

".....you'r running around like a baby bear with it's first hardon....."   Now, that's a classic that transcends all language barriers.
I just spit coffee on my keyboard. I hate that.  Hein hit the nail on the head.....(so to speak)

Jesse, don't even consider Unipod filters and rejetting until you fix all your leaks....

[tmkaos]

Information and knowledge are very powerful tools.

+1 on that!