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Burning Oil

Started by Lotsokids, July 25, 2011, 02:18:18 PM

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Lotsokids

So my bike is NOT running rich as my friend mistakenly identified blue smoke for black smoke.

There IS in fact blue smoke coming from my bike when I rev it. I know the bike has a wet clutch, so I am careful with what I put into the oil. I don't even run synthetic... ever. I'm a simple man, so I believe something super slippery shouldn't be on your clutch disks. Other than a top-end overhaul, is there anything I can do to help my situation? The bike has over 40,000 miles now.
U.S. Air Force sport bike instructor (initial cadre), 2007-2009

I'm an American living & working in Hungary

FJ111200

Quote from: Lotsokids on July 25, 2011, 02:18:18 PM
Other than a top-end overhaul, is there anything I can do to help my situation?

Keep checking the oil level and keep it topped up.
Obviously the next step after that is to take the head off for a look.
I ran an FJ ragged when i was a London despatch rider, burning oil, burnt out valves, pitting to the tops of the pistons, etc, but it kept on running, tough old engines the FJ's., but it never actually died. :bomb:
If it really worries you have a look inside, it's not like parts aren't available for a rebuild.
Don't worry.

Travis398

Didn't you say you are going to be getting rid of the bike soon? Because you are not bringing it home?

Run it!!!!



When all you have is a hammer, everything looks like a nail.

Lotsokids

Quote from: Travis398 on July 25, 2011, 03:21:56 PM
Didn't you say you are going to be getting rid of the bike soon? Because you are not bringing it home?

Run it!!!!

Correct, I'm not bringing it home, but I don't know how long I'll stay here. A least another year I suppose.
U.S. Air Force sport bike instructor (initial cadre), 2007-2009

I'm an American living & working in Hungary

mz_rider

Quote from: Lotsokids on July 25, 2011, 02:18:18 PM
So my bike is NOT running rich as my friend mistakenly identified blue smoke for black smoke.

There IS in fact blue smoke coming from my bike when I rev it. I know the bike has a wet clutch, so I am careful with what I put into the oil. I don't even run synthetic... ever. I'm a simple man, so I believe something super slippery shouldn't be on your clutch disks. Other than a top-end overhaul, is there anything I can do to help my situation? The bike has over 40,000 miles now.

Both my FJs burn a bit of oil. The amount has increased slightly with miles. The newer bike has done 57,000 miles and burns about 1 litre (or US qt) over 3,500 miles and the older one with 133,000 miles about 1,200 miles/litre. I don't know if these figures are good or bad but I'm not concerned.

Synthetic (full or semi) wouldn't make your clutch slip. As I understand it they have advantages but aren't actually more slippery. This may be a debate I shouldn't start!

Stuart

Travis398

Quote from: Lotsokids on July 25, 2011, 03:32:43 PM
Quote from: Travis398 on July 25, 2011, 03:21:56 PM
Didn't you say you are going to be getting rid of the bike soon? Because you are not bringing it home?

Run it!!!!

Correct, I'm not bringing it home, but I don't know how long I'll stay here. A least another year I suppose.

It will be fine, just add oil and tell yourself it is getting extra lubrication, and keeping the mosquitoes away, Win Win


When all you have is a hammer, everything looks like a nail.

grannyknot


[/quote]

Synthetic (full or semi) wouldn't make your clutch slip. As I understand it they have advantages but aren't actually more slippery. This may be a debate I shouldn't start!

Stuart

[/quote]
This is one of the few car/motorcycle forums that I am a member of that doesn't have its own dedicated oil thread. Not saying that is good or bad. Just refreshing.
84 Yamaha FJ1100L
82 Honda CB450T
70 Suzuki T500
90 BMW K75S

E Double

At 78K miles I'm barely down a half a quart in a 5K mile oil change interval.  I run Amsoil 10-40.  No smoke on startup, no nothing. 

These are pretty bomber engines.   Someone must have stayed in that motor's ASS for it to be as out of sorts as you indicate in just 40K miles. 
There are only two kinds of people who are really fascinating: people who know absolutely everything, and people who know absolutely nothing.
  
    Oscar Wilde

[

JMR

Put guides and seals in it. The valves are shot too. Replace them. And it will need a valve job after that....Serdi preferably. It will run very well after that even with rings that are worn out.

Seanextra

Im in the same boat mines blowing smoke under load and i have ordered parts for re-ring for the standard piston and rings with a light hone its got to be rings on mine . On start up its clear once off the choke and up to operating temperature still clear not a hint of smoke even revving it to 4k but if i hold it on about 6k and blip the throttle ill get a light puff of grey oil smelling smoke. The bike in question has sat for a while and only been a city commuter so im  going to try a few long trips a couple of big rides over a weekend and run a few tanks of premium unleaded thru it and see if it clears. If it doesnt clear ill strip it down!

Just on this side note im rebuilding another FJ motor right now 88 model does anyone know the cheapest place to get Cam Chain Guides other than BOat.Net  or Power Sports Plus ? are their any after market parts like this available or only OEM stuff ???

Cheers Sean

Arnie

Our resident parts supplier, and all-around good guy, Randy (racerrad8), will take care of you
Take a look in the suppliers' thread.

Cheers,
Arnie


Quote from: Seanextra on July 26, 2011, 05:27:19 AM

Just on this side note im rebuilding another FJ motor right now 88 model does anyone know the cheapest place to get Cam Chain Guides other than BOat.Net  or Power Sports Plus ? are their any after market parts like this available or only OEM stuff ???

Cheers Sean

andyb

Quote from: E Double on July 25, 2011, 09:04:23 PM
At 78K miles I'm barely down a half a quart in a 5K mile oil change interval.  I run Amsoil 10-40.  No smoke on startup, no nothing. 

These are pretty bomber engines.   Someone must have stayed in that motor's ASS for it to be as out of sorts as you indicate in just 40K miles. 

Or overheated it.  Doesn't take much to really bugger things up.  Running without an air filter can cause wear as well.

E Double

Quote from: andyb on July 27, 2011, 08:06:43 AM
Quote from: E Double on July 25, 2011, 09:04:23 PM
At 78K miles I'm barely down a half a quart in a 5K mile oil change interval.  I run Amsoil 10-40.  No smoke on startup, no nothing. 

These are pretty bomber engines.   Someone must have stayed in that motor's ASS for it to be as out of sorts as you indicate in just 40K miles. 

Or overheated it.  Doesn't take much to really bugger things up.  Running without an air filter can cause wear as well.


True.  On an air cooled bike dino oil gets its ass handed to it in short order;  One is lucky if you can get 1500 miles out of it before its shot.

I knew I made the right decision switching to synthetic on my bike when the bike was running quieter on a hot day (high 90's) with Amsoil in it than on an average day (mid 70's) with the Honda dino oil I ran in it when I first got it.
There are only two kinds of people who are really fascinating: people who know absolutely everything, and people who know absolutely nothing.
  
    Oscar Wilde

[

SkyFive


If you have to pull the cylinder head be sure to use positive valve seals on the intakes, they work miracles for oil consumption, blue smoke on start up and carbon build up.


racerrad8

Quote from: SkyFive on August 06, 2011, 11:17:39 PM
...be sure to use positive valve seals...

I used those seals for a few years but found them to fail at the mounting on the guide. The seals I use & supply are a metal clad portion of the lower portion of the seal.

http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Head%3AVSS

Randy - RPM
Randy - RPM